Novi Sad On Foot

In group C once again for our included walking tour, we set off with our guide at 9:30a.

Following a route through the neighborhood near Rinda’s berth, we arrived at the old open-air fish market for what Michal, our Program Director, had described in his briefing as a tasting of local specialties … krone [Serbian donuts] with kajmak [fresh sheep’s cheese with a texture not unlike clotted cream]; plum jam; and for those who preferred something savory, ajvar [a spread/dip made with roasted red peppers].

We were looking forward to the tasting … but it turned out to be just ‘meh!’ Perhaps it was the timing of when our group arrived, but the donuts, which should have been freshly fried and warm, were very obviously not. Seems to me like Group C struck out again as friends in a different group said their donuts were warm and tasty.

From the market, we headed to Kobasica Square to take a shortcut to Dunavska Street … one of the oldest in the city. Named for the Danube after the city was liberated in 1945, it is lined with colorful buildings … restored after the Serb Uprising of 1849.

Dunavska Street junctions with the square where the Orthodox Bishop’s Palace is located. The original palace from 1741 was destroyed entirely during the 1849 Uprising. The current one was completed in 1901.

Leaving the Bishop’s Palace, a leisurely walk along Zmaj Jovina Street, lined with restaurants and shops, brought us to Slobode Square — aka Freedom Square — which dates back to the 18th century. It is Novi Sad’s main square and also part of the pedestrianized zone. A popular meeting spot, the locals simply say “let’s meet at Miletić” … a reference to the statue of Svetozar Miletić, Serbian leader and Mayor of Novi Sad, which stands in the center of the square.

The square is rimmed by a number of beautiful buildings, including the neo-Renaissance style City Hall with its imposing tower … dates back to 1895; the Name of Mary Catholic Church … dates back to 1892-1894; the Vojvodjanska Bank, in a building constructed in 1892 as the Grand Hotel Mayer; and the Iron Man Building, so named for the knight in armor high up on its façade.

Next on our tour was a concert at the former Novi Sad Synagogue. I’m skipping that for now.

After the concert, we meandered through the streets behind the synagogue, continuing our sightseeing as we headed back the Danube and our ship. Along the way, we passed Mladenaca Square, the former site of an 18th century grain market. The “Gate of Good Wishes” — standing prominently in the square, is apparently a popular photo spot for newlyweds.

Finding our way onto Bulevar Mihajla Pupina, we made brief stops at two Armenian landmarks — the Khachkar Monument … a memorial stele installed on the site of the Armenian church that was demolished in 1963, and dedicated to the seven Serbian airmen who died in a crash in Armenia in 1988 while delivering aid to earthquake victims in that country. The second landmark was the monumental tomb of the Čenazi family, which has been declared an immovable cultural heritage of the city. The tomb dates back to 1790 and was a part of the Armenian church that was demolished. On closer inspection, what looked like white marble spheres between the top of the cube and a tablet above it, turned out to be shaped like skulls.

Further down the road we came to the Banovina Palace and Tower … the façade covered in marble but otherwise quite utilitarian in style. Constructed between 1936-1940, this is the seat of the Government of Vojvodina.

Crossing the street, we entered Danube Park. Established in 1895, on land that was a bog filled with reeds and willows, the park is protected as a natural monument. The grounds were refurbished between 1958-1962 to reflect its current day look. Façade fragments from the demolished Armenian church were later used to pave some of the walking paths.

There is a nice lake in the park — or so we were told. We didn’t see it because it was at this point that we decided to leave the group for the DIY portion of our day.Read more