• Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.
    Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Molting chinstrap penguins ... zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — SSI.Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Icicle spears ... zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Contrast between ice and rock ... zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — SSI.Glacier on the peak ... zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Algae-stained ice and chinstrap penguins ... zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — SSIZodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.The lone Weddell seal amongst fur seals and penguins ... cruise along the shore of Thule Island.Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Zodiac cruise along the shoreline of Thule Island — South Sandwich Islands.Ruins of the Argentinian station at Hewison Point — Thule Island, SSI.Ruins of the Argentinian station at Hewison Point — Thule Island, SSI.Gentoos, chinstraps, and Adelies amongst the ruins of the station — photo from Allan's presentation.Ortelius repositions closer to Hewison Point to pick us up — Douglas Strait, SSI.

    RWSE Day 9: Zodiac Cruise @ Thule Island

    February 19 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ ⛅ 32 °F

    Having done a recon cruise along the coast of Thule Island, EL Sara gave the OK to put all of the zodiacs in the water.

    We would not be able to go ashore … the swells crashing on the beaches were too frequent and too big; the rocky beach was crowded with wildlife. But we could cruise along the shoreline. Yes, inside the Douglas Strait we had relative protection from the elements. But that did not mean that the sea state was smooth. In fact, it was quite choppy … and it was very cold. EL Sara suggested that everyone consider their own physical abilities before deciding to participate as this cruise was going to be challenging.

    Bundling up, off we went on a bouncy ride. The closer we got to shore, the more wildlife we saw. What looked like little black dots revealed themselves to be chinstrap penguins … from the shoreline all the way up to the ridge line … many of them standing still, going through their annual molt. Their boisterous calls filled the air. A few gentoos stood out amongst the chinnies. What looked like great big boulders revealed themselves to be seals … mostly Antarctic fur seals … a few Southern elephant seals … a lone Weddell seal that didn’t even deign to turn around and look up.

    As we cruised along, we got a closer look at the glaciers and ice cliffs … parts showing their inner-blue; others stained green by algae. Icicles hung from the edge … deadly as spears, but we were out of their range. The snow covering the ice and the ground was pristine in some places; stained by excrement in others. Zodiacs cruising nearby, dwarfed by the ice, provided perspective for the size of the rivers of ice.

    Photography was challenging. The light was dull. The contrast between the white of the sky/snow/glaciers and the dark volcanic ground didn’t make things easier. And then there was the choppy seas and the strong current to consider. After a while, I put the camera away and just enjoyed the ride.

    This cruise wasn’t just about wildlife and scenery. When we reached Hewison Point, we got a clear view of the ruins of an old Argentinian station … established illegally and in breach of international law in 1977 … on territory claimed by Britain. After the 1982 Falklands War, British Forces destroyed the station. Unfortunately, in the process, they killed thousands of penguins. Today, the penguins have taken over the ruins, which was nice to see.

    While we were cruising, Ortelius had repositioned closer to Hewison Point to pick us up. Despite the layers of clothing we’d bundled ourselves into, the damp chill was starting to seep through. Time to return to the ship … our reluctance to do so eased by the promise of a hot shower … a hot drink … and the knowledge that our next stop would be the Great White Continent!    Read more