• Parma: A Day Trip from Bologna

    April 9 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    With a train trip of little over an hour ahead of us, we were up and out the door early today. So early, in fact, that we managed to get on the 8:33a train instead of the 8:55a departure we had planned on.

    By 9:45a, we were at the Parma train station, ready to explore Emilia-Romagna’s second largest city after Bologna … the city of prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano … the birthplace of Verdi, the composer; Toscanini, the conductor; Parmigianino, the painter; Bertolucci, the film director. Oh, and yes, Franco Nero was born here as well.

    We started our visit by strolling the streets, visiting the amazing Duomo which is chock-a-block with frescoes and paintings, and generally enjoying the beautiful spring morning.

    Then it was time for lunch … at Osteria della Ghiaia … one of the places recommended by the woman at the Parma Welcome office when we stopped by to pick up some brochures to plan future visits to the city.

    The place was quiet; the service personal; the food delicious. I ordered the homemade pappardelle with a ragù made from Parma ham; Mui ordered a platter of Parma hams and salamis, including a prosciutto aged for 25 months that simply melted in your mouth … served with a balsamic infused onion jam and homemade fry bread.

    Our dessert — Torta Susanna … a Parma specialty since the 19th century — came with a candle. Apparently, Mui whispered to the proprietor that our visit to the city was an early birthday celebration since a nationwide rail strike is planned on the actual day. The cake — a shortcrust pastry base topped with a layer of ricotta cheese and a dark chocolate ganache — was light and delicious.

    Unlike some of the smaller towns we’ve visited, many of the sights in this university city apparently remain open during siesta hours. We took advantage of this to spend the afternoon at a monumental complex.

    But more on that in the next footprint …
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