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Italy: Ciao Bella
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
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  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Italy: Ciao Bella

Life as expats in Italy … from our base in Bologna … including our ‘recon’ trip in October-November 2025. Read more
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    🇮🇹 Rome, Italy
    Italy: Ciao Bella
    1Mui had a canine companion sleeping in the aisle next to his seat — Aboard Frecciarossa to Roma.
    Porta Maggiore, built in 52 AD by Emperor Claudius ... as the train approaches Roma Termini — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.The view from our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.A glimpse of Circo Massimo from this afternoon's walk — San Saba, Roma.2Honoring Jews arrested and deported to Auschwitz, where they were killed — San Saba, Roma.Pyramid of Caius Cestius & Porta San Paolo (275 AD) ... from Mui's stroll to the supermarket — Roma.Terme di Massenzio on Palatine Hill and pinettas ... our view as night starts to fall — Roma.

    Welcome to Roma

    July 27 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    The train was a few minutes early arriving into Firenze … but also a few minutes late departing. From that point on, we traveled backwards all the way to Roma. So much for checking in advance the direction the seats face!

    Our ride was uneventful. Following a route that went through Pisa, we turned south to travel along cities we’re familiar with … Livorno, Tarquinia, Civitaveccia, and a few others. Glimpses of the Tyrrhenian Sea had Mui remembering visiting the beaches on the coast when he was a child.

    Although there were no stops for passengers to detrain once we left Firenze, we did come to a halt at several points to let trains traveling from the other direction pass us. We made up most of the delays caused by these stops along the way. Nonetheless, we were six minutes late arriving into Roma Termini. No biggie.

    Once we detrained, we made our way underground to the metro station at Piazza dei Cinquecento, directly beneath Termini. Mui had read that you can use ApplePay to purchase your fare, so we did not mess with getting tickets. A quick tap with our phones and the gate to the platform opened like magic.

    We arrived at the platform for Line B just as the metro train in the direction of Laurentina pulled alongside. Excellent. Two stops — Cavour and Colosseo — and we got off at the third one … Circo Massimo. Making our way above ground, Mui was now in familiar territory … right in front of FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization), the United Nations agency where his father worked for several years back when Mui was a bambino.

    A short walk across the road and we were at the apartment we rented for our short stay. Turns out that a second exit from the metro station would have avoided the road crossing since it is right in front of the building. Convenient for sure.

    The apartment is well situated for our opera night … just a short walk away. We have a nice view of the ruins of Terme di Massenzio on Palatine Hill — baths for the rich, or so I read … situated so that they could watch the chariot races at Circo Massimo while they bathed. Of course, there are pinettas as well … the umbrella trees we associate with Roma.

    The apartment itself is in need of a good dose of TLC … tender loving care. Overall, it looks worn and dated … though the en suite has obviously been renovated in recent years. While I would not say the place is dirty, more attention to detail by the cleaning crew would not have gone amiss. Will it do for three nights? Yes. But I am glad Mui picked up some paper towels and a multipurpose cleaner so I can give things a quick swipe where necessary.

    We stepped out for a quick wander before calling it done for the day. It was rather hot, and there wasn’t much shade. Our outing was a short one. We circled around Circo Massimo and returned to the apartment.

    Next on Mui’s agenda was a quick shopping trip while I got us settled in. But first, he had to wait for a rep from the management company to show up and check out the A/C … which didn’t seem to be cooling things down as it should. Not sure what all the guy did, but we are comfy now … cool without being cold.

    Except for a tour, the opera, and lunch at one of our favorite restaurants, we have no other planned activities on the calendar for the few days we’ll be here. We’ve been to Roma before … spent 3 weeks here, in fact, in 2015 … and a week in 2019. So, this time around, we’ll let the temperatures dictate what we do … or not.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Cappuccino & cornetto ... Dispensa Emilia @ Bologna Centrale.
    2Mui's like a little boy in a candy shop ... oh wait, he is in a candy shop! — Bologna Centrale.Aboard the Frecciarossa train to Roma Termini — Somewhere in Italy en route to Firenze.

    Frecciarossa to Roma

    July 27 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Yes, we are on the move again.

    But why on earth would we head to Rome now?!? In August of all times!

    It’s the height of tourist season. It’s crowded. It’s hot. And it is going to get swelteringly hot in the days ahead.

    Well, try as we might, the opera company refused to schedule the performance that is the reason for this 3-night trip to a different time of the year. I’m kidding of course. We have no pull with the opera company, so we just had to accept the performance date as scheduled.

    Anyway, we specifically chose a mid-morning train departure from Bologna to coincide with the check-in time for the apartment we reserved through Booking. A relaxing start to our travel day.

    After making sure all the rolling shutters were down, the boiler was turned off, and the electric appliances were all unplugged, we left the apartment around 8:45a. A short walk on a comfortably cool summer morning put us at the Via Farini bus stop … from where we hopped on bus #30 to Bologna Centrale. None of the pay-terminals on the bus were operational, so we got a free ride today … confirmed with the driver just to be sure.

    It was still too early for our train to show on the departures board. We expected that this would be the case, and had planned our morning to give us time to grab a cappuccino & cornetto … this time at Dispensa Emilia. Tummies sated, we stopped in at the OD Store to stock up on Lindt chocolate bars … they have the best prices in Bologna.

    By the time all that was done, our train was listed on the board … with binario 19 showing as the departure platform. We were more or less expecting that we’d be leaving from the underground section of Bologna Centrale. It takes a bit of time to get there … going down elevators and escalators … crossing under the rail tracks. So, we had given ourselves plenty of time to do so.

    The high-speed Frecciarossa train #89123 arrived 15 minutes before the 10:27a scheduled departure. Waiting within the carrozza 5 zone, we had an easy embarkation from the door closest to our seats in row 19.

    An on-time departure from Bologna. And here we are now. Zipping in and out of tunnels, the scenery a blur where we get a chance to see it … on our way to Roma Termini … with a stop in Firenze.

    The train is packed. Some are likely just going to Firenze … others probably staying on until Napoli, where this train terminates. When we booked our tickets, we managed to get two seats that are not part of a booth set-up, so we expect a comfortable trip.

    Now to sit back and enjoy the ride.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella

    PdiS Fingerprinting … ✅

    July 21 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Another step in the formalities for our Permesso di Soggiorno application is completed!

    This morning we went back to the Questura in Bologna to be fingerprinted.

    We arrived early, so had a bit of a wait. Nonetheless, we were done and on our way back before our actual appointment times of 11:05a and 11:10a. Once our names were called by the fingerprinting tech, it took about 2 minutes each for the process to be completed.

    The tech had no clue how long it might take for our cards to be ready. “Above my pay grade,” was essentially what he said. Someone else working at the Questura said the average is 8-9 months.

    So, now we wait!

    In the meantime, we have a link to check the progress of our application.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Going through a rain squall on the way back to Bologna ... somewhere along the way to Trento.
    Centigrade or Fahrenheit ... take your pick. Either way ... there's a big difference!

    Back to Bologna

    July 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    It was after 4:00p when we resumed our stroll after taking a rest/drink break. We headed to the train station in a roundabout way to kill some more time. Collecting our bags, we checked the departures board for the platform information … binario 5. Which necessitated going down the stairs one level, walking under the railway tracks, and then up again at binario 5.

    We still had about 30 minutes before the train, but luckily there was shade …. And a light breeze to keep us comfy. We weren’t there long when a station agent made his way along the platform to advise waiting Bologna passengers that our Frecciarossa train was now departing from platform #1. Sigh!

    Back down the stairs to go under the tracks and then up again at the other end to binario 1 … the closest one to the station building.

    When we were purchasing our tickets, we were offered an upgrade to the business class car. The price was just a few Euros more, so we took it. That we were able to get a two-seat booth set-up with a table in between was a bonus. A snack cart came through almost immediately upon departure at 5:10p … two cookies each, a bottle of water, and a beverage of our choice.

    Leaving Bolzano, it was clear that there was rain in the mountains. Soon, the train was going through a heavy squall that completely veiled our views through the window. We also noted heavy traffic southbound … with a several-mile back-up. Glad we were on the train and not driving in that mess.

    We arrived at Bologna Centrale a few minutes behind schedule … no matter. Leaving the station, we lucked out … a bus heading in the direction of the apartment was just about to leave. Excellent.

    The bags have been set aside to be unpacked tomorrow … not much laundry to do since we took care of that before leaving Colfosco. The apartment has been aired out and we now have the A/C cooling things down.

    That it is quite hot in Bologna compared to what we enjoyed in the Dolomiti goes without saying. That it is not ‘heat dome hot’ is something for which we are grateful.

    And so our July ‘escape the heat’ trip is now a wrap. We’re home … but not for long 😉    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Ötzi 'in the flesh' ... so to speak — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology — Bolzano, Italy.
    Living image of Ötzi based on scientific specifications — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.Ötzi ... wet mummy images from a multimedia presentation — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.Ötzi's shoe; bearskin sole/hay-stuffed tree fiber netting — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.From an interactive display ... the arrowhead that caused Ötzi's mortal wound is visible — STMofA.Belt plate of Lohen (6th century BCE) — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology — Bolzano, Italy.Roman gold coins (6th century CE) — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology — Bolzano, Italy.Roman swastika shaped garment clasp (2nd/3rd century CE) — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.World's oldest snowshoe from 6,000 years ago — South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, Bolzano.

    Bolzano: Visiting Ötzi

    July 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Older than the Egyptian pyramids.
    Older than Stonehenge.

    Ötzi is a 5,300-year-old wet mummy … which makes him a man of the Copper Age(c. 6500 BCE to c. 3000 BCE).

    He is described on the website of the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, where he currently resides, as an “… archaeologic sensation, media star, research topic, museum object. …”

    He is known by a number of names — the Iceman; the Similaun Man; the Tyrolean Iceman. Even “frozen Fritz” has been used to refer to him … rather irreverently. Then there are all the names given to him in other languages and by the media — some 500 … I read on an info panel — in the initial weeks and months following his discovery. But the one name which seems to have stuck is Ötzi … given to him by an Austrian journalist who was “looking for a catchy name.”

    Archaeologists believe that he was crossing the Giogo di Tisa, a 10,525-foot (3,208m) high mountain pass in the Ötztal Alps, when he was murdered … as seems to be borne out by the arrowhead that came to light during radiological studies. After his death, Ötzi’s body was claimed by the glacier ice. He remained hidden until, in 1991, two hikers found the body, the upper part of which was protruding from the thinning ice.

    We’ve seen mummies before … in Egypt; in Greenland; and elsewhere. What made us curious to see Ötzi, however, was that like the mummies of Qilakitsoq, he is categorized as a wet mummy … meaning that he was mummified naturally in the glacier ice, losing most of his body fluid over a period of time. To ensure that further fluid loss is avoided now that he has ‘come to light’, he is sprayed regularly with sterile water.

    Ötzi is stored in a special cold cell that has a window through which he can be viewed by visitors … with a platform that rises with the push of a button to give us ‘short people’ a better look. Multimedia display screens and interactive stations provide all kinds of information about the mummy and the studies conducted. His clothing and other artifacts — including an axe — have been carefully restored and are exhibited in glass cases. Information panels also provide details about what visitors are seeing.

    Seeing Ötzi lying on his ‘bed’ — tattoos clearly visible even after thousands of years — was eerie to be sure. Fascinating as well.

    Since we started our visit from the third floor, I didn’t realize photography of the Ötzi exhibit area was not allowed, so I do have a couple of photos … most of which are from the multimedia screens. Of course, I stopped taking photos once I noticed the sign banning photos and videos.

    (More information about the fascinating find of Ötzi is available at this link on the museum website: https://www.iceman.it/en/oetzi/the-iceman. This second link has some fascinating information as well about the studies that were conducted on the mummy: https://www.eurac.edu/en/magazine/otzi-s-ink.)

    In addition to the permanent exhibition about all things Ötzi, including a ‘living image’ created by Dutch specialists using scientific criteria, there are special exhibitions at the museum as well.

    The current installation is called “Under Propaganda.” This is where we started our museum visit, and found many interesting artifacts from the New Stone Age to the Late Iron Age, and more … including a Roman era garment clasp in the shape of a swastika that the head of the cultural office during the Nazi period wanted to present to Hitler as a gift … but was convinced otherwise by archaeologists.

    The website describes this special exhibit as follows:

    “… Between 1920 and 1972, political systems used archaeological finds and excavations in South Tyrol to reinforce their own ideologies. Fascist-influenced Italian scientists presented Roman relics as evidence of the region’s “Latin origins,” while Nazi researchers interpreted their finds as confirmation of a “Germanic” past. … The special exhibition, Under Propaganda, brings this conflict-ridden era of South Tyrol’s history of archaeology to life. Numerous finds from 1920-1972 are being reinterpreted for the first time according to modern scientific standards, and many of them will be on public display for the first time ever. …”

    Another interesting exhibition.

    And then, off we went to have lunch … but you already know that from the Bolzano: A-wander footprint.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.
    Model of Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.St. George slaying the dragon ... in the apse of Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Madonna on the throne with baby Jesus ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.The old cloister ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.The old Cloister ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Some of the frescos in the old cloister are faded ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Fresco in the old cloister ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Faded fresco in the old cloister ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.The Chapel of St. Catharine ... Old Cloister ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Giottoesque Fresco in the Chapel of St Catherine in the old cloister ... Chiesa dei Domenicani.Frescos on the back wall of St Catherine's Chapel ... old cloister — Chiesa dei Domenicani.The Baroque presbytery ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Ceiling detail ... Baroque presbytery ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Center medallion of the ceiling of the presbytery ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Door from the presbytery to the Chapel of St. John ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Virgin Mary & baby Jesus with two saints ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.1The Chapel of St. John ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.The altar at the far end of the Chapel of St. John ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.Presentation of Boccio, who commissioned the fresco cycle, and his wife to the "Man of Sorrows."Star-studded ceiling w/evangelists, church fathers, and prophets — Chapel of St. John.L to R: St. Peter & weighing of souls; triumph of death; sinners going to hell — Chapel of St John.Fresco from the Chapel of St. John ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.2Frescos on the back wall of the Chapel of St. John ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.The Annunciation of the Virgin Mary ... Chapel of St. John ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano.Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew ... Chapel of St. John ... Chiesa dei Domenicani — Bolzano, Italy.

    Bolzano: Chiesa dei Domenicani

    July 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    The Dominican Church — Gothic in style and one of the earliest examples of its kind in the South Tyrol — was our first stop after our cappuccino break.

    It was a stop on our sightseeing itinerary recommended by fellow-FindPenguiner C’est parti mon kiki. When she wrote that it is often compared to the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova, I knew we had to stop by and check it out.

    Founded by the Dominicans when they settled in Bolzano in 1272, the current church dates to the early 14th century. At that time, it sat outside the city walls. The church and monastery were later expanded and the neighborhood became known as the New City. As is usual with buildings from that period, it underwent several restorations … the work done during the 18th century adding Baroque elements.

    In 1785, the monastery and church were closed by Emperor Joseph II and the property was used for a variety of purposes … including as a military magazine until 1924. In 1930, the lands owned by the Dominicans were nationalized by the Fascist regime. During WWI, the building was re-purposed as a hospital. Bomb raids during WWII led to parts of the complex being destroyed. Today, those restored sections house the Bolzano City Gallery and the Bolzano Music Conservatory.

    As it was scheduled to close at noon, when we arrived at the church we hurried to find the old cloister — first mentioned in documents from 1308. Turns out that the internal access gate was locked, but a short walk back outside the church got us there.

    It was interesting to note that some of the cloister paintings, which cover three periods, still showed brilliant colors, while others were faded and required a careful study to determine the depicted theme. I read that some — such as the 14th century crucifixion fresco — were damaged during the replacement of the flat ceiling with the Gothic-style arched ceiling we see at present.

    While wandering along the cloister, we happened upon the Chapel of St Catherine, with its walls adorned with a 14th century fresco cycle in the style of Giotto. I kept my wandering here to a minimum as I didn’t want to intrude on the man praying in one of the front pews.

    Returning to the church, we wandered through the apse, where there were more fragmentary frescos, including a 15th century one depicting St. George slaying the dragon. Walking through the arched wall behind the altar, we entered the presbytery … its 18th century Baroque style immediately apparent and in stark contrast to the rest of the church.

    It was through a small door at the back of the presbytery that we accessed he Cappella di San Giovanni (St. John’s Chapel) … which separates the church from the monastery where the cloister is located.

    Given by the monks to a banker from Florence as a burial place, the Giottoesque fresco cycle for the chapel was commissioned by his son. They were painted by traveling Italian workers who were identified as “Masters of the Dominicans.” They were known to interpret the style of the Giotto school of painters with greater narrative expression. They mixed lime into their paints for more intense and bright colors. I wonder if that explains the brilliant colors and details in the frescos on the back wall of the chapel.

    Admittedly, the majority of the frescos here are not nearly as well-preserved as the ones at the Scrovegni Chapel, but the visit did not disappoint … nor did the cycle of frescos.

    (If you have not seen the footprint/photos from Padova’s Scrovegni Chapel, this link will take you there … https://findpenguins.com/52z11qkijr3ou/footprin….)    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Loacker in Piazza Walther — Bolzano, Italy.
    Took a photo of the cappuccino, but neglected one of the bucstein ... hence the menu page.Piazza Walther; named for the greatest Middle High German lyric poet and minnesinger.Flower panel ... serves as a backdrop for a small stage on Piazza Walther — Bolzano, Italy.Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta ... from Piazza Walther — Bolzano, Italy.Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta ... from Piazza Walther — Bolzano, Italy.1The steep angle of the roof ensures built up snow slides off ... Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta.Traditional polychrome tile roof ... Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.The tower was added in the early 16th century ... Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.Main portal ... Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.Main portal detail ... Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.Baptismal invitation painting ... Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.Fragments of frescoes ... Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta — Bolzano, Italy.The Gothic pulpit that was restored after being damaged during WWII — Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta.The Sisi Gingko-Biloba tree; two photos on the left are mine — Palais Campofranco.

    Bolzano: A-wander

    July 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    The drive to Bolzano was uneventful. Twisty-turny and scenic, to be sure.

    Returning the rental car to Sixt … well, that was a different matter. Long story short … yes, Sixt emails instructions for the return, but it needs to include some additional details. The provided address takes you to a building adjacent to the parking structure entrance that is down a ramp. No signs anywhere to direct drivers to take the ramp. Anyway, we eventually figured it all out … with the help of the Sixt AI Assistant providing specifics.

    Putting that behind us … onward with the story of our day.

    With the car returned, we rolled our bags over to the train station — a few blocks from the parking structure. Our plan was to leave our bags at the luggage storage facility at the station so that we could freely wander around Bolzano until it was time for our train to Bologna.

    That done, our first stop was at Loacker, an Italian confectionery established in Bolzano in 1925. What started out as a small, Austrian family-owned local bakery has apparently grown to global recognition with its products sold in over 110 countries. To be honest, I had not heard of Loacker until fellow-FindPenguiner C’est parti mon kiki suggested we check them out.

    Walking through Walther Park, we easily found the Loacker shop in Piazza Walther near the duomo … and lucked out with a table in the shade. At that early hour, we just wanted a cappuccino & cornetto. They were out of the cornettos — cream-filled or otherwise. Instead, we each got a Südtiroler Buchtein … a yeast pastry … soft, slightly sweet, and delicious. In our case, we ordered it with a vanilla dipping cream, though chocolate was an option as well.

    Loacker is particularly known for its bite-sized Quadratini (cube-shaped wafers). Our cappuccinos came with a sample, but we opted not to buy any to take home today.

    From Loacker, we headed off to visit a church and a museum. I’ll leave those for their own footprints and continue with lunch and the rest of our day.

    When we were planning out the order of our stops in Bolzano, we had found a restaurant — Wirtshaus Vögele … not far from the museum. It was well after 1:00p when we arrived at the place. There was a two-top on the sidewalk … in the shade to boot. We enjoyed a delicious lunch, grateful for the clouds that filtered out the hot sun. In fact, we had some rain while we were eating … luckily, no wind to blow it toward us or we would have had to move inside.

    Mui ordered the beef fillet with peppercorn sauce … served with potatoes prepared au gratin style. I ordered the Milanese … served with German-style potato salad and mirtilli rossi (cranberry) chutney/sauce. For dessert, we decided to each order our own … primarily because Mui wanted the Vögele Affogato … an espresso coffee with walnut ice cream and cinnamon whipped cream. I ordered the sorbetto … expecting a sorbet garnished with local strawberries … got strawberries garnished with a basil sorbet. Delicious. I ordered hot tea to wrap up while we waited for the rain to end … a good time for people watching.

    By the time we paid the bill, the rain was history. The sun was out, creating extra humidity. What to do now? Siesta time meant that the civic museum was closed, so we headed over to the duomo instead.

    We’d noticed the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta (Assumption of Our Lady Cathedral) when we had our coffee break at Loacker on arrival in Bolzano. What really caught my attention was the roof — covered in colored polychrome tiles installed in a geometric pattern … reminiscent of some of the places of worship we saw in Vienna and Budapest a few years ago. I later read that the similarity is due to shared architectural traditions rather than direct copying.

    The duomo sits on the site of an early Christian basilica and Romanesque church. Today's Gothic cathedral was built during the 13th-14th century. The 213-foot (65m) high church tower, with its open-work spire, was built by skilled workers from Lombardia and Swabia between 1501 and 1519.

    Due to its proximity to the train station, the duomo was heavily damaged during WWII bombing raids. While the frescoes (except for some remnants), the stained glass windows, and the altarpiece were lost, the Gothic pulpit was rebuilt.

    The visit to the duomo was more or less a quick in and out. Back on the street, we took a stroll around the centro, delving into back streets, searching out a garden for which we saw a sign … the gate locked today.

    Our steps next took us to Palais Campofranco … a complex of three houses that were remodeled into a single unit back in 1342. Just over 400 years later, the building was converted into a Baroque-style palace. Over the years, it was further renovated and eventually came into the hands of Archduke Heinrich … uncle of Austria’s Empress Sisi.

    Today, the property is a courtyard with underground shops and eateries . The ginkgo-biloba tree that was a gift from Sisi to her uncle in 1889 was carefully worked around and saved during the renovation — the roots enclosed in a multi-floor ‘tree pot’ around which an underground staircase was built … leaving the tree itself in the courtyard that is essentially a terrace …. though you wouldn’t know that unless you visit the underground facilities. Ingenious, really.

    The ginkgo-biloba tree, by the way, is on the endangered plants list. It is considered a “… symbol of love, friendship, longevity, durability, hope, peace, productivity, vitality, adaptability, invincibility. …” It was declared “Tree of the Millennium” in 2000.

    (On our 2023 world cruise, we saw the ginkgo-biloba tree in Hiroshima that survived the atomic bomb that was dropped on the city. The temple near it was less than a mile from the hypocenter and was totally destroyed, but the tree continues to bud without any major deformations. In fact, six ginkgo-biloba tress survived the atomic blast … adding to the species being regarded as a “bearer of hope.”)

    Eventually — with still nearly two hours to go before our train — we sat down at a restaurant that was still serving. Not that we were looking for food, mind you. We just wanted to rest our feet and enjoy a cold drink … people-watching as we did so. A pleasant way to end our exploration of Bolzano.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Ciao ciao Dolomiti — Italy.
    Ciao ciao Dolomiti — Italy.Ciao ciao Dolomiti — Italy.Sassalungo ... Ciao ciao Dolomiti — Italy.Sëlva di Val Gardena — Dolomiti, Italy.Santa Cristina — Dolomiti, Italy.Roadside curiosity in Urtijëi — Dolomiti, Italy.Ciao Ciao Dolomiti ... near Urtijëi, Italy.

    Ciao Ciao Dolomiti

    July 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    We were up and at ‘em by 6:00a this morning. Check out wasn’t until 11:00a, but we wanted to get on the road early enough to make the most of the time we had set aside to explore Bolzano before hopping on the train back to Bologna.

    Having completed most of the packing yesterday, there was nothing to delay us. A quick breakfast … and we were on the road by 8:00a.

    Our route back to Bolzano was one that we’d not driven before and took us through Val Gardena … thus completing the loop. Beautiful scenery. Crowded towns that felt like big cities. Lots of traffic. We had looked at basing ourselves in this region. Now, we’re glad we didn’t.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Early evening thunderheads forming behind the mountains — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: Not Quite Ready, but …

    July 17 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We’re not quite ready to leave the wonderful cool and comfy temps we’ve been enjoying in the Dolomiti … nor the delightful mountain views.

    We have no choice but to do so, however. We have a Permesso di Soggiorno appointment to keep in a few days and need to return to Bologna. The good news? The heat dome is finally breaking, so we’ll have just the usual summer temps to deal with rather than the sweltering temps that had us escaping to the mountains.

    Anyway, we woke up to rain pitter-pattering on the roof … drenching at times; a drizzle at other times. I didn’t let it stop me from enjoying the balcony since there was no sun to make it uncomfortably hot this morning.

    We could have gone out sightseeing when the rain stopped mid-morning, but we’ll be driving to Bolzano tomorrow, so we decided to just ‘chill’ at the apartment … literally and figuratively. We used the time to do one last load of laundry … the facilities are in the ski/bike room and free to use. We also packed our bags …nearly ready to be zipped up.

    Chores done, we’re now sitting on the veranda … need to finish the open bottle of wine. A good time to reminisce about the memories we’ve added during our mountain getaway.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Ursus ladinicus ... a cave bear subspecies found in 1987 in a cave on Conturines Peak.
    3Full skeleton of a cave bear ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.The cave on Conturines Peak where Ursus ladinicus remains were found — San Cassiano, Italy.Red arrow points to Conturines Peak ... the cave is on the far side and can't be seen from here.Poster showing the bones found in the cave ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano.Mounted cave bear @ Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Replica of the Conturines cave where the bones were found ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus.A closer look at a sample of bones from the cave ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano.2Cave bear and cub reproduction in the cave ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Bones from newborn cave bears that did not survive were also found in the Conturines cave.Molar of a cave bear ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Sample cave painting that might have been found if the Conturines cave was at a lower elevation.1An ammonite fossil ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Wooden cut-out of a Ladin couple in the village square — San Cassiano, Italy.The Parish church of San Cassiano in the Italian Dolomiti.Mural near the church — San Cassiano, Italy."Rotten apple anyone?" — San Cassiano, Italy.

    San Cassiano: Ursus ladinicus

    July 16 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    During the shuttle bus ride in Colfosco, we decided to collect the car from the chalet’s garage and go check out the “art trail” — a footpath with sculptures along the way — in nearby La Villa.

    Manuela had marked up a map for us, but when we arrived in La Villa, we could not find the trailhead. That turned out to be a good thing as we continued our drive and ended up in San Cassiano.

    Spotting the ‘postcard-pretty’ church in the village center, we decided to check it out … maybe even have lunch in the village square. Our decision to do so was clinched when we saw that a museum that had piqued our curiosity earlier during our trip was here as well.

    Where to park was the question, however. The road to the parking structure was closed due to construction. When the GPS took us back to the roundabout to turn us around, we spotted another sign for the parking structure.

    The car parked, we walked to the village square … where we noticed the church door was open. Fearing it might close for siesta, we headed there first.

    With its white-washed walls trimmed in green, and its characteristic onion-domed bell tower, the Parish Church of San Cassiano is quite charming. The presence of a church here is apparently first mentioned in documents from the 15th century. The current building is a re-build from 1782. Two women were cleaning inside. Though they welcomed us, I didn’t want to be underfoot. A few quick snapshots and we were back outside.

    Lunch was at La Vedla, a ristorante/pizzeria overlooking the main drag … and a few quick steps from the church. Our timing was perfect. We had just moved from a rather uncomfortable bistro table to a regular table when the place filled up. In fact, we soon found ourselves sharing our four top with another couple.

    We ordered the Montana Pizza — with speck, mushrooms, and the local grey cheese; and a Caesar salad. Both were very good. Hoping to get some gelato from a shop we had spied in the pedestrian area near the museum, we skipped dessert. No gelato, alas … the place was closed. Oh well.

    The Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus tells the fascinating story of a cave bear by the same name. Paying the senior admission of €4.50pp, we received audio guides that essentially summarized in English the exhibit signage and provided the audio for the video screens around the museum.

    It was in the fall of 1987 that Willy Costamoling, a man from Corvara, went mountain climbing and made an extraordinary discovery … at about 9,186 feet (2,800m) asl … just below the Conturines Peak. Inside a cave there he found a countless number of bones belonging to a heretofore unknown subspecies of a cave bear from the interglacial period (~40,000 years ago) … a bear that up to 24,000 years ago lived in Europe … in the area between the Ural Mountains and France.

    The museum website explains … “In the following years, a team from the University of Vienna, led by Professor Gernot Rabeder, systematically explored this grotto. The result was remarkable: They had discovered a previously unknown species. Named after its discovery location in this Ladin valley, the bear species was christened 'Ursus ladinicus'. Bones of a cave lion were found in the cave as well [no bite marks from the lion were found on the bear bones]. What's more, due to its high altitude, it is probably the highest site worldwide where cave bear and cave lion remains have been discovered. …”

    We began our visit on the first floor where we listened to the audio guide detailing the exhibits, including the geological history of the Dolomiti. Here we also found a reconstructed complete skeleton of the cave bear.

    Then we walked down the stairs to the basement where there is a replica of the Conturines Cave with the reproduction of a cave bear sleeping with its cub. A short documentary video about the studies conducted by the scientists wrapped up our time at the museum.

    I’m glad we happened on the museum today. It was quite fascinating.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Looking back from the footpath that winds down to town from a spur near the Kolfuschgerhof resort.
    From the footpath to the cableway — Colfosco, Italy.A closer look at the town and church from the footpath to the cableway — Colfosco, Italy.From the footpath to the cableway ... with the town behind us — Colfosco, Italy.Colfosco Cableway ... today's ride up the mountain from the valley station — Colfosco, Italy.Interesting concept to take rocks for a hike ... at the valley station — Colfosco, Italy.And we are off on the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.From the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.One of several ski bridges over the main road through the town — Colfosco, Italy.1From the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.1Having fun near the mountain station for the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.4Yeah, the chair is a bit big for me 😄 — Colfosco, Italy.This is where we realized that to get to trail #8, we'd have to climb up quite a bit first.Horses and cows grazing in the mountains — Colfosco, Italy.Heading down to the Edelweiss Hut for a snack — Colfosco, Italy.Edelweiss Hut ... not far from the mountain station — Colfosco, Italy.A pair of alpaca at Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.At the entrance to the Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.The view from our table at the Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.Apple strudel with vanilla ice cream ... Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.2An unexpected and delightful moment as we were leaving the Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.Near trail #4 as we begin our hike down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Near trail #4 as we begin our hike down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Near trail #4 as we begin our hike down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Looking back from the paved trail as we head down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch is a Ladin church — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Cemetery at Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Purple fleabane in a garden near the church — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: Gondola Up; Hike Down

    July 16 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    With blue skies and sunshine urging us to get going, we had a quick breakfast at the apartment and headed out around 9:00a.

    Leaving the car parked at Chalet Cogolara, we followed a footpath down from our hilltop perch into town, crossed the road to another footpath, and kept going until we got to the valley station for the Colfosco cableway.

    Our plan was one recommended by Manuela at the chalet … take the gondola up to the mountain station, then follow trail #8 to #8b to hike back to the chalet. What she neglected to tell us was that to get to #8, we’d have to first negotiate the steep #4 trail.

    To revisit our plan in light of this development, we hiked down a short trail to Rifugio Edelweisshütte. At the early hour of 10:15a, there was hardly anyone around. We sat down to enjoy hot chocolate — good but not the thick, gooey kind we had earlier in our trip. We also shared an “apfelstrudel mit vanilleeis” … yes, that would be apple strudel with a side of vanilla ice cream.

    While we were enjoying our ‘snack with a view’, we started to see people hiking up to the hut from somewhere below. Checking the map, we determined the trail would take us down to Colfosco, so we decided to do that hike instead.

    Just as we were leaving, a herd of horses came down from where they were grazing … adults accompanied by colts and fillies. What fun! I’d already seen the two alpaca at the rifugio, and we’d spotted a couple of marmots as we were coming up on the cableway … so plenty of critters today.

    When we got back down to town, we detoured to check out Chiesa di Calfosch, the Ladin church that was originally consecrated in 1419. It was enlarged in 1869 and given a neo-Gothic façade … with the characteristic onion spire on the bell tower. I especially liked the simple, elegant decorations painted on the ceiling inside.

    When we checked in at the Chalet six days ago, Manuela had emailed us free passes for the shuttle that operates between the villages in the region. We decided that taking a ride back to the apartment would save us a considerable amount of uphill walking. It also changed our plans for the afternoon.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Our morning view from Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.
    Patches of blue sky prove to be a good omen — Colfosco, Italy.1On our way to Corvara, we try to check out a biotope lake ... no luck!A good-sized Roman Snail ... and a baby snail hiding in its shell (bottom right) — Colfosco, Italy.Heading up on Seggiovia Prolongià — Planac, Italy.Panorama from the 'Refuge of the Owls' ... Corvara is way down there — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Pralongià Plateau — Dolomiti, Italy.1Eclectic decorations on the deck of the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.A tree full of owls ... near the 'Refuge of the Owls — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.One of the many owls near the 'Refuge for the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.A pop of color — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Enjoying the solitude, cool air, and scenery — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Marmolada Glacier across the valley from the Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.An appropriate mosaic mural at the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Owls are everywhere at the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The wine hut near the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.On our way up to the high plateau — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Queen Anne's Lace (I believe) ... certainly not the poisonous hemlock — Pralongià Plateau.Enjoying the view from a bench along the way — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Glimpse of the peak of Sassongher from the trail — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Cima Dieci (far left); La Varella (center); Conturines Peak (far right) — Pralongià Plateau.On the way to the high plateau hut — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.A charming photo op that frames the Sassongher Peak — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Western honey bee on a thistle — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Rifugio Alpina Pralongià ... from the trail up to the church — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The Alpine Chapel of St Anthony — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The Alpine Chapel of St Anthony — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The Alpine Chapel of St Anthony — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Mui at our table @ Rifugio Alpina Pralongià — Pralongià Plateau.A delicious lunch @ Rifugio Alpina Pralongià (descriptions in the footprint) — Pralongià Plateau.Mountain biking trail ... on the way down from the refuge hut — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Heading down from the Pralongià Plateau on the chairlift ... sudden jolting stop and all 😃.Our early evening storm ... from the Zoom Earth radar image — Colfosco, Italy.

    Corvara: Pralongià Plateau

    July 15 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Woke up to thick fog filling the valley and hiding the mountains and the town from view. By the time breakfast was over, however, so was the fog … in time for us to put today’s plans for an outing in play. The blue sky was hidden behind clouds initially, but that changed by the time we got to our destination.

    Arriving in Planac, just outside Corvara, we parked in the lot for the chairlift that goes up to Pralongià … a high plateau at the far end of the Badia Valley. In the winter, it’s a haven for skiers … this time of the year it is a destination for hikers and bikers.

    Purchasing roundtrip tickets on the chairlift, we were on our way up to the mountain station shortly after 10:30a. It was a refreshing ride … didn’t really need the jackets we’d put on in the parking lot just in case.

    We’ve ridden ski chairlifts before, but this one could accommodate 6 people on each lift. With just the two of us, we were able to enjoy a private ride and turn around to look at the scenery behind us as well. A fun ride … less than 10 minutes.

    The chairlift is actually two phases, but only the first phase — which ends near Ütia Punta Trieste at 6,654 feet (2,028m) asl — is operating this time of the year. (Ütia, by the way, means mountain hut or alpine refuge in the Ladin language.) Despite its name — which means Trieste Peak — the hut is better known as the “Rifugio dei Gufi” (Refuge of the Owls) because of the hundreds of owl carvings, ceramics, and more that decorate the hut and the deck.

    We dallied a bit around the hut, taking the time to enjoy not just all the owls, but also the wonderful view of the mountains in every direction. That there was hardly anyone else around was a bonus.

    And then we began the hike to the alpine refuge of Pralongià, which took us up another 425 feet to 7,076 feet (2,157m) asl. It wasn’t a difficult hike, despite some steep sections. We’d been told it was a 30-minute hike to the hut — now a fairly large facility with a restaurant and hotel. We took longer to get up to it, following a detour that was easier on the knees … via a scenic path dotted with wild flowers.

    It was almost noon when we arrived at the Pralongià ‘hut’ … if you can call it that. The place was packed with mountain bikers and hikers congregating here for food and rest after their strenuous activities. Can’t say as I blame them … the view was spectacular.

    The place was packed but we found a table where we could both sit facing the alpine church on the hill across the way and still be in the shade. A glass of wine; delicious food — braised venison ossobuco from the Alps with celery root crêpes and carrots for Mui; paccheri pasta with venison ragout, Lagrein wine reduction sauce, and freeze-dried raspberries for me. Dessert was an interesting concoction … a mountain pine semifreddo garnished with berries and crunchy bits. Delicious.

    We would have dallied at the restaurant, but we felt guilty taking up a table … even though we had agreed to have a German couple from Stuttgart sit at the other side of our table when they asked if they could share it with us. No sooner were we standing that another couple was taking our seats.

    We hiked back down via the main trail for a change of pace and scenery. With distant clouds portending rain — a storm was forecasted for this afternoon — we decided to continue down on the chairlift and return to the apartment.

    The rain indeed came … earlier than yesterday … and it was much heavier today. That it didn’t last as long as yesterday’s storm meant that we could enjoy our snacks-in-lieu-of-dinner on the balcony.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Screenshot of the radar image from Zoom Earth as the storm moves over us — Colfosco, Italy.
    2Here's a bit of what we experienced — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: It’s Raining, It’s Pouring

    July 14 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    I was totally OK with the plan to stay home today so Mui could go to the clinic in town. Aside from the fact that I could do some catching up with footprints, I could read and relax on the balcony. Frankly, I did more of the latter than the former.

    That there was rain in the forecast was another reason to stay at home … especially since the various weather sites couldn’t seem to agree on when and how much rain we’d be getting.

    After breakfast, Mui went off to the clinic, waiting with the rest of the patients to see the doctor. No receptionist or anything … just the one doc doing everything from seeing patients to taking payments.

    The long and short of it is that he agreed there was an infection. He prescribed an ointment that Mui filled at the pharmacy. Fingers crossed we see results soon.

    Once he got home, we had lunch and just chilled. We had some sunshine, but cloud cover moved in frequently, which allowed me to sit on the balcony earlier than usual … hence the adverse impact on photo processing for footprints.

    The worst of the rain held off until late afternoon, but it has been raining on and off since then. Light at times; moderate at other times … certainly heavy enough to not only veil the distant mountains from view, but the town below us as well. Thunder and some lightning, too. And occasional winds that were strong enough to set the tree branches a-swaying.

    It was too chilly to sit outside for afternoon tea … or even for snacks in lieu of dinner. Nonetheless, I later grabbed the fleece blanket and sat outside for a while despite the rain … thanks to the protection of the wide eaves over the balcony.

    We plan to do some hiking tomorrow if Mui is up for it … and the ground isn’t too soggy. If the radar is to be believed, the wet stuff will continue in waves through the night.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Sunset view from our balcony at Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.
    Nightfall veils all but the twinkling lights of the town ... from Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: A Day of R&R

    July 13 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    After a day of sightseeing yesterday, today was a quiet day at the apartment.

    Mui used this day to visit the pharmacist in town. He wanted to get some drops for what he thinks is an eye infection. He succeeded in his goal. By nightfall, however, there was added puffiness around his eye.

    He now plans to visit the clinic he spotted near the pharmacy and have a doctor look at his eye. But that’s for tomorrow.

    We need to get the infection under control so that his vision is not impaired. I can’t begin to even think about having to drive us back to Bolzano on these twisty-turns two-way roads!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Welcome back to Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.
    Our lunch spot ... Klematys in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.2Delicious food ... and an interesting mask associated with a Ladin legend ... Klematys — PieveLadin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.1Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.European red squirrel ... Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.1Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.

    Pieve: Mujeo Ladin Fodom

    July 12 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    From the castle, we drove to Pieve … in the commune of Livinallongo del Col di Lana … aka Fodom in the Ladin language. We’d stopped at this town on moving day and strolled around a bit, but this time we timed our visit to coincide with the opening hours of the Ladin Museum.

    We had time on our hands, however, as the museum did not open until 2:30p. No worries … we wanted to have lunch first anyway. We opted to go to Ristorante Pizzeria Klematys … in the square below the church.

    The ambiance was German/Tyrol; the service fast; the waitress had a sense of humor; and the food was good. Mui ordered the special on the recommendation of our server … a beef fillet doused in a peppercorn sauce that had just the right amount of bite. I ordered the cotoletta alla Milanese (aka Wienerschnitzel) that came with French fries. Both dishes were delicious. We wrapped up with a special dessert — Kaiserschmarrn — which the waitress said isn’t always on the menu.

    Kaiserschmarrn is a traditional fluffy Austrian dessert … it can also be eaten as a light meal. It consists of a slightly sweetened pancake that is shredded into bite-sized pieces while cooking. Often studded with rum-soaked raisins, it is typically caramelized with a bit of sugar and served warm with powdered sugar and a fruit compote.

    I found the backstory to this dish interesting … so here it is as provided by AI: “The name translates to ‘Emperor's Mess’ … originating from the German words Kaiser (Emperor) and Schmarrn (mess or scrambled dish). It is famously named after the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I. According to local legend, a chef accidentally tore a pancake intended for the Emperor. The Emperor tried the shredded pieces, loved them, and the "scrambled pancake" became a staple.”

    Onward to the museum.

    We didn’t know much about the Ladin Museum Fodom, but wanted to get a better sense of the Ladin culture since it is an important part of the Dolomiti. We were given a €1 discount each for being 65+ … paid a total of €8.

    The purpose of the museum is to “… preserve and to pass on to future generations the ancient Ladin culture.” There were models of the different types of houses one might see in Ladin communities; agricultural equipment; samples of arts and crafts; several traditional costumes, including the more formal outfits a bride and groom might wear; geological artifacts; and examples of furnishings.

    It was an interesting visit … our only disappointment being that none of the poster-sized signage included explanations in English. So we were left with the information we had pre-read on the web.

    On the way back, we followed the same route we drove when we moved to Chalet Cogolara on the 10th. By 4:00p, we were at the apartment. Wanting to just chill (pun intended), I sat on the balcony and read. The wind added a chill factor that had me seeking out a fleece blanket to wrap around myself. Hey, no complaints … I’ll take cold over the alternative anytime.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.
    On our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.1Sass de Putia (9,430 feet/2,875m asl) ... On our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.An alpine church on our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.2Slightly 3D sign for Castello di Andraz delineates the erratic boulder on which the castle was builtCastello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.1Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Archaeological dig of the church ... as we climb to the top — Castello di Andraz.The roof walkway over the glass ceiling ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalySass de Stria (L) and Cima Falzarego (center) — from the rooftop at Castello di Andraz.One of the three medieval toilets ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy1View of the nearby hamlet from Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalyKitchen ... sink (lower left); fireplace & chimney (center) — Castello di Andraz —Closer look at the sink in the kitchen ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy2Sass de Stria (L) and Cima Falzarego — Castello di Andraz.Panorama of Sass de Stria (L); Cima Falzarego (center); & Coston d'Averau — Castello di Andraz.Some of the artifacts found during restoration ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di LanaCastello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy2From the exhibition of photos around Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalyModel of Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalyModel of Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy5Waterfall near Model of Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.

    Castello di Andraz … 3rd Try … Success

    July 12 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    It was very pleasant on the balcony this morning. Of course, it was only 7:00a when I sat outside to read for a bit … and there was a corner still in the shade.

    Why mention this? Because it meant that we got a late start on today’s outing, which took us practically all the way back to Colle Santa Lucia … or near enough.

    You’ll recall that road construction foiled some of our plans last week — A and B as mentioned in previous posts. Well, today being Sunday, the road was open. Having confirmed this by calling ahead, this time we made it to the restored ruins of Castello di Andraz. Third time’s the charm, as they say. Mui took a different route on the way there, the all-new-to-us scenery made the drive all the more pleasurable.

    Once we got to the turnoff for the castle, we decided to drive down as far as we could instead of parking at the top and hiking down. Remember, what goes down must eventually come up 😩.

    We lucked out with a roadside parking spot not too far from the castle. Bonus! The admission ticket for the museum we visited in Selva di Cadore gave us a discount here, so we paid €10 for the two of us … saving €2. Double bonus!

    The castle, which dates back to the 11th through 15th centuries, is situated at 5,670 feet (1,728m) asl … just below the Falzarego Pass in Livinallongo del Col di Lana. It was built atop an immense erratic boulder — which broke away from the Settsass Group during the Ice Age.

    The purpose of this medieval stronghold was to control the routes that linked the territories of first Belluno and later the Venetian Republic. The decline in mineral and timber resources during the mid-18th century led to Andraz losing its importance. In the early 19th century, it was sold to a private owner who used materials from the castle for other construction projects. Eventually, the roof was dismantled and used as firewood … furthering the deterioration of the castle.

    WWI saw Andraz being used as an Italian encampment, which led to its bombing by Austrian forces. During the post-war period, the ruins were used as a quarry for the reconstruction of a nearby village.

    Purchased by the Veneto Region in 1985, the castle has been restored with modern additions … structural reinforcement, steel staircases and a glass roof amongst them. The latter not only protects the interior of the ruins from the elements, but also serves as a terrace from which visitors can enjoy the mountain and forest scenery.

    There were more people visiting the castle than I expected. The good news, however, is that the large group that was inside was leaving as we arrived. We decided to head up to the top and make our way down.

    On the top-most level, the walkway over the glass ceiling that protects the castle was open … even though the signs said that it was only accessible with a guide. We’re guessing that the guide for the group that had just departed forgot to lock the gate for the ladder-like stairs. We were quick to take advantage of the opportunity.

    Frankly, there’s not much to see inside Castello di Andraz. Nonetheless, we wandered through each level, reading the signs identifying and describing each area. The signs also pointed out interesting features that one might otherwise miss … such as the medieval toilets, the sink in the kitchen, the remnants of the timbers to which prisoners were chained.

    There were also a couple of display cases with artifacts found during the restoration, and a model of the castle. We also took time to watch the multimedia presentation … showing how the castle was built atop the erratic boulder and the changes it underwent through the ages.

    An interesting visit that added variety to our activities in the Dolomiti.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Comfy in a short-sleeved t-shirt in the morning ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.
    With the wind picking up as a rain storm moves in, need a fleece blanket to stay warm.That's it as far as a rainbow ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.The rain starts to lift and the mountains begin to reappear ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.1As night falls, this is all the color we get ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: All’s Quiet on the Central Front

    July 11 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    After yesterday’s twisty-turny drive through the mountains, we were both happy to have a quiet day at the chalet.

    The apartment gets the sun in the morning, so I sat out for just a short time before it felt downright hot … despite the light, cool breeze. No A/C here, so we pulled some of the drapes closed and kept the balcony doors open. Kept us comfy for the rest of the morning.

    Once the sun moved off the balcony, I split my time between photo processing indoors and reading outside. Although we are quite close to two fairly large towns, it’s beautifully quiet up here on the outskirts.

    A light snack for dinner on the balcony tonight. And then I wrapped myself up in a fleece blanket to continue sitting out … watching the daylight dim as it began thundering in the distance. Rain began to fall around 9:00p … right on schedule. The twinkling lights of the houses in the mountain valley below us are now veiled by the steady rain. The eaves afford enough protection to continue sitting outside … which I will do until the evening chill drives me inside.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to Colfosco in the central Dolomiti region.
    The one stop we made was at the ubiquitous big letters — Dolomiti, Italy.Photo point on Passo Campolongo; the Sassongher massif (R) and the Puez Group (L) looms behind.Mui's entrecôte with gravy; crispy onions, and roasted potatoes — Hotel Jägerhof, Colfosco.Welcome to Chalet Cogolara ... we're on the top floor in the building on the right — Colfosco, ItalyTofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Second bedroom ... perfect for Mui's daytime naps ... Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco.Balcony ... looking south (L) and north; Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.View down to Colfosco and the ski runs and mountains in the distance — Tofano Apartment.View from the balcony down to Colfosco and the mountains — Tofano apartment @ the chalet.Glimpse of Sassongher (L) looking north from the balcony — Tofano apartment @ the chalet.

    Colfosco: Our New Digs @ Chalet Cogolara

    July 10 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The route we followed from Pieve to our new digs was all new.

    Having decided to see if we could check-in early, we didn’t dally along the way … we knew we’d be driving along the same twisty-turny, two-way mountain roads again. One photo stop at the ubiquitous big letters for Corvara was it.

    As we were driving through Corvara and Colfosco we began wondering if we had made a mistake with this booking. Both towns were very crowded; the streets a hub-bub of activity. Of course, as late as we were to planning our Dolomiti ‘escape the heat’ trip, choices for accommodations that fit our budget were limited, so nothing to do but grin and bear it.

    Turns out that Chalet Cogolara, an apart-hotel, is on the outskirts of Colfosco, far from the madding crowd … but still convenient to grocery shopping, several trails, and such. Built in 1970, the property was renovated into apartments around 2018-2019. It is operated alongside Lüch da Rönn, a historic farmstead. The first mention of the high-elevation farm dates back to 1273. Today, the farm is dedicated to breeding sheep.

    We were greeted by Manuela, who apologized that our apartment wasn’t ready. No apology necessary … we were three hours ahead of schedule. She suggested we have lunch and return around 2:00p … and made a couple of recommendations for our meal. We settled on the restaurant at Hotel Jägerhof down the road a bit and enjoyed a nice lunch on the terrace where an umbrella provided plenty of shade from the bright, hot sun.

    Our apartment was ready when we returned around 2:00p. Before taking us up to our top floor apartment for the next 7 nights, Manuela gave us a tour of the facilities, including the garage, the ski/bike room where she pointed out a locker for our use, the laundry room, and more. Then up to our luxurious apartment … named Tofana for some of the peaks visible from the balcony.

    Once we got the lay of the land and unpacked, Mui drove back to Colfosco to supplement our groceries. I took advantage of the balcony — now in the shade — to read for a while. A delightful light meal — wine and snacks with a view down toward Colfosco and the mountains behind — wrapped up our moving day.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    An "it was great to get to know you" selfie w/Raffaella in the Villagrande town square.
    Parking lot with a view — Pieve, Italy.Heading to the museum (only to find it closed) — Pieve, Italy.1Love all the colorful blooms in planters along roads and in the windows — Pieve, Italy.Colorful blooms and wood carvings — Pieve, ItalyPainted shutters — Pieve, Italy.Decorative trim around a window — Pieve, Italy.WWI & WWII Memorial outside the church — Pieve, Italy.Memorial to Katharine Lanz; a Tyrolean patriot; considered a sort of Joan of Arch of Tyrol — Pieve.The Church of San Giacomo — Pieve, Italy.The Church of San Giacomo — Pieve, Italy.In the town square — Pieve, Italy.Detail from the fountain in the town square — Pieve, Italy.1Collection of colorful blooms — Pieve, Italy.Ladin flag in Pieve, Italy.

    Moving Day … With A Detour to Pieve

    July 10 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    After a 10-night stay in Colle Santa Lucia (actually, in the hamlet of Villagrande), today was moving day for us. Raffaella, our host, came to see us off … asking if we could take a selfie together before we left. We were off around 10:00a … after bidding “a s’odëi” (= see you later … in Ladin).

    With check-in at our new place set for 3:00p, our plan was to take a roundabout route to Colfosco … in the central region of the Dolomiti. To that end, we decided to try going to one of the places we were hoping to visit yesterday … Plan A. Alas, that did not prove possible. Hope springs eternal, however, so we’ll try again if we can fit it in.

    Thus, we jiggled our plans, deciding to try an alternate route to another place we had hoped to visit yesterday … Plan B. No problem getting to Pieve, the main town in the commune of Livinallongo del Col di Lana. We even found parking … with a view no less. But the museum that we wanted to check out was not scheduled to open until 2:30p.

    We debated wandering around for a while to kill time, have lunch, and then go to the museum. It didn’t take long, however, to realize that there wasn’t enough to keep us occupied until 2:30p. Instead, we settled on just doing a wander around Pieve and then continued on to our new digs.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mural at the entrance to the Paleontology exhibits — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.
    Map of Val Fiorentina showing the important sites in the valley — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Schematic showing the geology of the Dolomites — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Mural at the entrance to the exhibits about Italy's first dinosaur tracks — Museo Vittorino CazzettaDiorama showing a dinosaur leaving tracks in the ground — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Photos and information about the dinosaur tracks of Monte Pelmetto — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Cast of the Monte Pelmetto dinosaur tracks; lower right of previous photo shows the cast being made.Diorama of two herbivores and one carnivore leaving tracks — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Fossils from the Dolomites — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural at the entrance to last hunter-gatherers of Europe exhibits — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Diorama of a shelter of Mesolithic hunter-gatherers — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Skeleton of the 8,000 year-old Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Information about the burial find of the Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural depicting the burial of the Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural depicting the Mandriz rock shelter — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.3D model of the Mandriz rock shelter built against an erratic boulder — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.3D elevation depiction of the Dolomiti — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Inscriptions of Monte Pore; stele with characters of the extinct Indo-European Venetic language.Inscriptions of Monte Civetta from the Roman Period — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Lion of St Mark ... on a marble border stone — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Carved and painted wooden box from 1576; used to store accounting entries.Book of statutes of the Brotherhood of Santa Maria dei Battuti of Selva and Pescul (16th century).Episode of the Martyrdom of San Lorenzo; 1490 ... from the Church of San Lorenzo in Selva di Cadore.Banner of the Comune of Selva di Cadore — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Could this be the precious Rajetta? The question remains unanswered.

    Selva di Cadore: Museo Vittorino Cazzetta

    July 9 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The main activity of Plan C today was a visit to the Vittorino Cazzetta Museum.

    Founded in 1982 as the Val Fiorentina Civic Museum, it features exhibits on paleontology, archaeology, and history. In 1997, it was dedicated to Vittorino Cazzetta, described as “… a passionate, self-taught scholar and author of the area’s most significant scientific discoveries.” Cazzetta disappeared during a trip into his beloved mountains 30 years ago.

    We paid the 65+ admission — €7pp … with a discount part of the deal for another museum we hope to visit.

    The museum is not very big, but it has interesting, well-planned exhibits. Information panels are in Italian and English … though the labels for items in the display cases are in Italian only (thank goodness for translation apps).

    The focus of the museum is the history of the area … from the oldest geological periods to the Middle Ages. Two of the exhibits are of great importance to the region.

    One is the actual skeletal remains from the mesolithic burial find of “L’Uomo di Mondeval” … the 8,000 year old Mondeval Man. The other is a cast of the first traces of dinosaur footprints discovered in Italy … found on a boulder that fell from Mount Pelmetto (one of the mountains we can see from our apartment).

    We started out by watching a multimedia presentation explaining how the Dolomiti (aka the Pale Mountains) — which are inscribed on the UNESCO WHS list — were formed over 250 million years ago. Originating as vast coral reefs in a shallow tropical sea, tectonic collisions later pushed these ancient seafloor deposits thousands of feet up. The rock was then transformed by magnesium-rich waters and sculpted into jagged peaks by ice and erosion.

    (That’s the short story … for more detail, you can start with this link: https://www.dolomites.org/dolomites-history/.)

    We then wandered through the different sections of the museum, starting with the paleontology and geology exhibits where we saw a collection of fossils; the cast of the dinosaur tracks I mentioned earlier; displays and information about Mesolithic hunter-gatherers, including a diorama of a shelter; and of course the skeletal remains and artifacts from the Mondeval Man burial find.

    The second floor had more archaeological finds, including finds from the Mandriz Shelter and the Bronze Age Mondeval de Sora. It was interesting to see how people used huge erratic boulders as part of their rustic shelters.

    On this floor, we also found more ‘recent’ archaeological finds … time being relative and all that. Photo displays of the valley’s most significant historical and artistic sites — such as the ones that inspired us to visit Chiesa di Santa Fosca — rounded out our visit to the museum.

    Even though this museum was not on our radar, I’m glad we had a chance to visit it and learn a bit more about the Dolomiti and the Valley of Fiorentina.

    Tomorrow is moving day … we’ll be heading to the central part of the mountains.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to implement Plan A (and Plan B), we go through one of the tunnels of the Dolomiti.
    Plan A and Plan B both foiled by the road closure — Dolomiti, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.St Christopher with baby Jesus ... Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.1Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Monument honoring the 150th anniversary of mountaineering in memory of ancestors ... @ Santa Fosca.View from behind Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca from the path to the cemetery — Selva di Cadore, Italy.The cemetery is behind and separate from Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.

    Selva di Cadore: Today’s Plan C

    July 9 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Plan A for today was a bust. So was Plan B.

    The reason? Construction work on the road we needed to drive to get to both places. Sure, the road would be open for two hours between noon and 2:00p … during siesta. But neither place we wanted to visit would be open during that time frame.

    We’re going to try dropping down to those places from the north later during this trip, so I’ll keep them a secret for now.

    Thus, we moved on to Plan C … which took us to a museum in Selva di Cadore, down the road a bit from Colle Santa Lucia. I’ll leave the museum to another footprint.

    After visiting the museum, inspired by a photo I saw at one of the exhibits, we programmed Chiesa di Santa Fosca into the GPS. Short drive up the road from the museum.

    The church, constructed in Alpine Gothic style, was founded in the 13th century; underwent rebuilding in the first quarter of the 15th century … a bell tower with a characteristic onion dome added in the mid-15th century. Sitting by itself on a small plateau, it is considered one of the iconic views of the Val Fiorentina (val = valley).

    What drew me to the church was a mural … pictured on the front façade in the photograph at the museum. The description indicated that the oversized fresco was painted in the 15th century and depicts Saint Christopher with baby Jesus sitting on his shoulder. Considering the considerably deteriorated condition of the mural of Saint Fosca (over the door), I’m thinking St Kit has been ‘touched up’ over the years.

    The door to the church was locked. But the info panel indicated it would be open between 4:30p-6:00p.

    So, under the guise of getting ourselves some gelato in Selva di Cadore, we later returned to take a peek inside the church. Still locked up tight.

    Oh well! At least we got to enjoy some good gelato.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Ra Gusela Pond Reflection ... hike #1 trail in the distance — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.
    Ra Gusela Pond Reflection ... the two peaks on the right are Tofana di Rozes & Tofana di Mezzo.Cows on the way back to the car — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View of Ra Gusela and many more mountains from the parking area — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View from the parking area for hike #2 — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Ra Gusela and the Tofanas ... on the wall behind our bed at Cesa dele Angele.

    Dolomiti: Giau Pass … Hike #2

    July 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Our second hike of the afternoon was just a short ways down SP638. Technically, we could have left the car where it was and walked to the trailhead. But what goes down, must come back up. So, we decided to save our energy and drove to the small roadside parking area instead.

    The reason we wanted to do the hike was simple … it was marked on Google Maps as “Ra Gusela Pond Reflection.” Can you say double the pleasure?

    There was no real trail per se. We essentially looked ahead to where the grass seemed to have been trampled through an area where cows graze and followed it. Today our bovine friends were resting on the next hill over.

    When Google Maps said that we had arrived, we looked around for a body of water. What we found was more of a mud pit … with some water. A couple seated on a nearby rock confirmed that this was the spot. Hmmm!

    Disappointing? That was our first reaction. However, our initial grimace at what we found, quickly turned into wide smiles when we realized that we could still get a reflection of Ra Gusela. We just had to walk around to the other side of the mud pit. Even the clouds cooperated and the light brightened to match our grins. Best of all … the wind that came out of nowhere, waited to do so after we completed our photo ops.

    Here’s the funny thing about the Ra Gusela Pond Reflection. We didn’t know it at the time we decided to do the short hike, but what we’d be seeing was the same view that is on the wall behind our bed at Cesa dele Angele!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    View from where we parked the car on the side of the road — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.
    Ra Gusela behind us ... from where we parked the car — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Panorama with Ra Gusela (R) and road down to Da Aurelio (L) — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo (L) and Monte Cristallo (R) — from the Giau Pass, Dolomiti.A closer look at Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo (10,322 feet/3,126m asl) — from Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Bladder Campion ... along the trail at Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View of the mountains from our turnaround point on the trail at Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Heading down ... (L to R) Torre Dusso, Cima Loschiesuoi, Monte Cernera — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Panorama from our turnaround point — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.1Interesting hanging sculpture at the Berghotel — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Chiesetta Alpina di Passo Giau is a cabin-like wooden chapel — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.

    Dolomiti: Giau Pass … Hike #1

    July 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    After lunch, we drove the short distance on SP638 — a regional road that is part of the Veneto Strade system — to the highest point of Passo di Giau (7,335 feet/2,236m asl).

    The plan was to hike the short trail that starts near Berghotel Passo Giau … in the direction of one of the famous peaks of the area … Ra Gusela. No real parking lots in the vicinity, so we did what all the other cars had done … when we found an open spot on the shoulder, Mui pulled off the road and maneuvered into it.

    The hike wasn’t difficult per se … wide steps pretty much all the way up to a radio link antenna at our turnaround point. Beyond that it was a rock scramble that continued deeper into the mountains and refuge huts. Not taking on that part of the trail.

    Spectacular scenery … despite the overhead clouds.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Ristorante da Aurelio ... we dined on the terrace on the left — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.
    View at Da Aurelio ... the peak on the right is Ra Gusela (8,514 ft/2,595m) — Passo di Giau.View @ Ristorante da Aurelio ... Averau (R) is 8,688 feet/2,648m — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.View from our table ... Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.Piz Boé ... 10,341 feet/3,152m (center back) & Col di Lana (center front) ... from Da Aurelio.Delicious lunch @ Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.An espresso to wrap up lunch @ Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.1At Ristorante da Aurelio ... we dined on the terrace on the left — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.

    Dolomiti: Lunch at Da Aurelio

    July 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    When we first arrived in Colle Santa Lucia, Raffaella — our host at Cesa dele Angele — texted me recommendations … what to do, where to eat, etc. Amogst the suggestions was what she described as a ‘chic restaurant’ … Ristorante Da Aurelio overlooking the Giau Pass (7,335 feet/2,236m asl).

    We drove through the pass early on during our stay … it connects Colle Santa Lucia with Cortina d’Ampezzo. We passed the restaurant at the time, but other plans were calling us, so we postponed our lunch to another day. That day turned out to be today.

    The plan was to have lunch first, and then do two easy hikes in the immediate area. It all worked out beautifully — with the weather cooperating … comfy temps and sunshine … with ‘sun-ray-filter-clouds’ eventually giving way to puffy clouds as the afternoon progressed.

    The road to get to the pass is twisty-turny. Coming from Colle Santa Lucia, one has to drive through 3 tunnels … easy peasy; and tight, hairpin bends … 29 of them to be exact. No, I didn’t count them myself … each one was clearly numbered with a sign.

    Da Aurelio is at the rifugio by the same name … located at 7,135 feet/2,175m asl. We had no reservation for lunch. But that actually worked out in our favor as we were invited to dine at one of the tables on the deck instead of the dining room inside. Perfect. (Soon after we were seated, the remaining tables on the deck were filled by others who had not made reservations.)

    What can I say! It was a wonderful dining experience. Not surprising since the restaurant bills itself as “A gourmet’s paradise at 2,175 meters in the heart of the Dolomites.” The menu is inspired by nature and features traditional Alpine fare … with a twist — meaning that the chef adds his own interpretation to the recipes. Products are sourced locally and wild herbs and high-altitude edible Alpine flowers are used for flavor and color.

    A delightful meal. And now to hike-off some of the calories.    Read more