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Italy: Ciao Bella
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
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  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Italy: Ciao Bella

Life as expats in Italy … from our base in Bologna … including our ‘recon’ trip in October-November 2025. Read more
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    🇮🇹 Bologna, Italy
    Italy: Ciao Bella
    Lunch at Da Cesari ... a neighborhood restaurant — Bologna, Italy.
    A glass of regional Sangiovese to toast the day ... Da Cesari — Bologna, Italy.A delicious lunch ... Da Cesari — Bologna, Italy.Mui always enjoys a post-meal caffettino (a standard shot of espresso ... Da Cesari — Bologna.My surprise birthday cake ... from Il Duca ... a neighborhood pasticceria — Bologna, Italy.Judas Tree in bloom (in the courtyard across the street from our apartment) — Bologna, Italy

    Buon Compleanno to Me

    April 11 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    True, we celebrated my birthday early with a trip — and lunch and dessert — in Parma a few days ago.

    Mui didn’t let the actual day go by without recognition, however. Since we don’t exchange gifts — and haven’t for I don’t know how long — he took me out to lunch … and also surprised me with a small cake at home later.

    Our lunch reservation was at Restaurante da Cesari … around the corner from our apartment … with the ambiance of a friendly, family-operated neighborhood dining establishment.

    Da Cesari’s origins date back to 1955 when it began operating as an osteria and wine reseller. It is often described as a place that “Italians bring their Italian guests to dine” … an excellent endorsement.

    After ordering a ½ bottle of a regional Sangiovese, we perused the menu and listened to the specials.

    Our first course was an appetizer special … the classic Italian dish of “asparagi con uova” … blanched asparagus garnished with a chopped, hard boiled egg, EVOO, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Now, I am not an asparagus aficionado, but I really enjoyed this preparation. Oooops … forgot to take a photo of it.

    Some might find my choice of tagliatelle alla Bolognese as my main course boring. But it is one of my favorite dishes, and hey … my birthday, my choice. Mui ordered a scottona roast beef. We had to look up what scottona means … it refers to a female bovine under 2 years of age that has never given birth … producing tender, marbled meat with a delicate flavor. I think Mui ordered the dish mostly for the artichokes that garnished the meat, but he said the roast beef was fantastic, too.

    Dessert was a taster’s plate of three delicious sweet treats … a semifreddo with eggnog and crunchy almonds … reminded us of crème brûlée; a slice of panna cotta with a caramel syrup topping … reminded us of a caramelized flan; and a slice of chocolate torta tenerina … a traditional flourless chocolate cake.

    The whole meal was delicious … and we felt pleasantly full when we left Da Cesari to return home.

    No dinner tonight … still too full from lunch. But I couldn’t resist a bite of the lemon cake with which Mui surprised me. I’ll have the rest of my cake for tea tomorrow.

    A lovely birthday in Bologna … as I begin inching my way towards another decade … but I still have 729 days before that auspicious milestone. Who knows where that celebration will take place.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.
    Forensic Unit vehicle ... Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Vintage Alfa Romeo mobile squad car ... Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.

    Esserciempre

    April 10 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    “Esserciempre” … Always There”

    That was the theme of this year’s Festa della Polizia, a nationwide event that celebrates the anniversary of the founding of the Polizia di Stato (State Police).

    April 10 is apparently the date of this annual event … this year celebrating 174 years of serving the Italian people.

    Mui was on his way to the market when he stumbled onto the event that was set up in Piazza Maggiore … exhibits showcasing the history of the force, vintage and modern police cars, motorbikes on which the kids were climbing gleefully for a photo op.

    Mui doesn’t usually take photos when he goes out to run errands, but he has ‘strict instruction’ to do so as an expat … to share local events as well as travel memories.

    Thanks for remembering, Mui.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The entrance to the Monumental Complex of Pilotta — Parma, Italy.
    Looking up toward the grand entrance to the Farnese Theater ... Palazzo della Pilotta — Parma, ItalyThe grand entrance to the Farnese Theater ... Palazzo della Pilotta — Parma, Italy.Historic photo of the Farnese Theater ... this entire area was covered with scaffolding today.Horseshoe-shaped seating at the Farnese Theater ... could accommodate 3,000 spectators — Parma.Leonardo da Vinci's "La Scapiliata" (c. 1492-1501) in a 15th/16th century Italian frame.Double faced flint (center) from the Paleolithic Period (3.3 MYA to 11,650/10,000 years ago).Neolithic statue of a woman representing a "lady of death and rebirth" (5th Millennium BC).Celtic bronze helmet found in a burial structure in the Parma Apennines (3rd century BC).These statues from the Veleia excavations led to the founding of the Archaeological Museum in 1760.Statue of Germanicus with the head modified into that of Nerva (1st century AD).Ceiling detail from the room with the statues — Palazzo della Pilotta.Back of one of the Etruscan mirrors in the collection (4th-2nd centuries BC)Fragment of the tomb of Imeneminet, high-ranking military officer (Saqqara, Egypt; 1330-1295 BC).National Gallery at the Palazzo della Pilotta — Parma, Italy.Palatine Colossi are the 2 giant statues of Dionysius (top left) and Hercules (top right/bottom).Canova's "Maria Luigia of Austria as Concordia" (1810).Giovan Battista Borghesi's portrait of Marie Louise of Habsburg (1839)."The Madonna of St Jerome" (1526-1528) by Antonio Allegri (aka Correggio).Inner Courtyard from the National Gallery (from a streaky window; sorry) — Palazzo della Pilotta.Hans Holbein's "Erasmus of Rotterdam" (c. 1530).The Farnese coat of arms near the Palatini Library @ the Palazzo della Pilotta.The Palatini Library — Palazzo della Pilotta.17th century ebony and ivory cabinet made in Central Italy."Coronation of the Virgin" by Correggio ... fragment from the apse of a church in Parma (c. 1522)."The Turkish Slave" (1530) by Francesco Mazzola (aka il Parmigianino).

    Parma: Monumental Complex of Pilotta

    April 9 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    After lunch, we walked over to the Piazza della Pace … where we started out our day in Parma this morning.

    Our destination was the Complesso Monumentale della Pilotta … which was built as a palazzo for the Farnese Court, integrating the ducal residences and connected to the Ducal and Garden palaces that were across the river. Built around 1583, it was expanded over a period of time. Its name comes from a noble game called pelota that was played in the courtyards on specific occasions.

    Today, in addition to the Farnese Theater, which replaced a large palace hall in 1618 as the first modern theater in the Western World, the complex consists of the Palatina library, which was established here in the mid 18th century, and also houses the National Museum of Archaeology, the Bodoni Museum, and the National Gallery of Parma. The Fine Arts School is also housed in a wing of the palace, but it is not open to visitors.

    Our first stop was the ticket office … where we were given a €4pp discount on the admission because parts of the complex are closed due to ongoing restoration work. Securing our daypack in a locker, we headed off to explore what was open today. We had a brochure with a map of the building to help guide us, but with the restoration closures, we were soon ‘lost’. The good news? Staff stationed around the complex, were happy to help us get on track.

    Since the complex is massive and there is so much to see, we made a ‘game’ out of our visit … sort of like a scavenger hunt for the pieces highlighted in the brochure.

    When we left the museum around 3:30p, our route back to the train station took us through an international food festival on a street lined with stalls. Delicious smells were emanating from several of them as they prepared for tonight’s opening. Still full from lunch, we were satisfied to just smell and not partake.

    We managed to make the 3:58p train back to Bologna … a regional train with a few more stops than the train we took this morning. Nonetheless, we were back at Bologna Centrale at 5:10p … just in time to walk out of the station and hop on bus 25 back to our neighborhood.

    Our visit to Parma proved to be a lovely pre-birthday trip that gave us a taste of the city. We’ll go back to explore further, but first we have other places that we have not yet been to that we need to tackle.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Palazzo della Pilotta and the Verdi Monument from Piazzale della Pace— Parma, Italy.
    Giuseppe Verdi Monument at Piazzale della Pace ... inaugurated in 1920 — Parma, Italy.Aging determines the quality of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese — Parma, Italy.The belfry of the Parma Cathedral was added between 1284-1294 — Parma, Italy.The San Giovanni Battista Baptistery was built between 1196-1216 — Parma, Italy.A closer look at the entrance to the Baptistery — Parma, Italy.The Duomo and belfry/clock tower from across the Piazza del Duomo — Parma, Italy.Mui's photo of the interior of the Duomo — Parma, Italy.A closer look at the sanctuary of the Duomo — Parma, Italy.Amazing ceiling and fresco work at the Duomo — Parma, Italy.The main organ at the Duomo is a reconstruction of a 1787 Sarassi instrument — Parma, Italy.Ceiling detail from the north transept of the Duomo — Parma, Italy.A unique art installation of suspended mirrors overhead on a street in Parma, Italy.Hercules & Antaeus ... one of the many statues that can "telephone" you if you download the app.Palazzo del Governatore at Piazza Garibaldi — Parma, Italy.Behind the Garibaldi Monument are two sundials that date back to 1829 — Parma, Italy.Torrente Parma (Parma River) is all but dry ... at least in the area where we saw it — Parma, Italy.The Parma River divides the city in two ... it flows from the Apennines to the Po River — Parma.Mui perusing the menu at Osteria della Ghiaia — Parma, Italy.A delicious lunch @ Osteria della Ghiaia — Parma, Italy.Torta Susanna @ Osteria della Ghiaia ... an early birthday cake — Parma, Italy.The Partisan Monument honors the Italian resistance against Nazi-fascism — Parma, Italy.

    Parma: A Day Trip from Bologna

    April 9 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    With a train trip of little over an hour ahead of us, we were up and out the door early today. So early, in fact, that we managed to get on the 8:33a train instead of the 8:55a departure we had planned on.

    By 9:45a, we were at the Parma train station, ready to explore Emilia-Romagna’s second largest city after Bologna … the city of prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano … the birthplace of Verdi, the composer; Toscanini, the conductor; Parmigianino, the painter; Bertolucci, the film director. Oh, and yes, Franco Nero was born here as well.

    We started our visit by strolling the streets, visiting the amazing Duomo which is chock-a-block with frescoes and paintings, and generally enjoying the beautiful spring morning.

    Then it was time for lunch … at Osteria della Ghiaia … one of the places recommended by the woman at the Parma Welcome office when we stopped by to pick up some brochures to plan future visits to the city.

    The place was quiet; the service personal; the food delicious. I ordered the homemade pappardelle with a ragù made from Parma ham; Mui ordered a platter of Parma hams and salamis, including a prosciutto aged for 25 months that simply melted in your mouth … served with a balsamic infused onion jam and homemade fry bread.

    Our dessert — Torta Susanna … a Parma specialty since the 19th century — came with a candle. Apparently, Mui whispered to the proprietor that our visit to the city was an early birthday celebration since a nationwide rail strike is planned on the actual day. The cake — a shortcrust pastry base topped with a layer of ricotta cheese and a dark chocolate ganache — was light and delicious.

    Unlike some of the smaller towns we’ve visited, many of the sights in this university city apparently remain open during siesta hours. We took advantage of this to spend the afternoon at a monumental complex.

    But more on that in the next footprint …    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Etruscan artifacts from tombs uncovered in the area — Museum of the History of Bologna.
    Construction of Via Emilia ... Bononia was founded in the center point of the road in 189 BC.We time travel back to walk the rough pavers of Via Emilia during the Medieval Period.The three lost towers of Bologna (right); Garisenda (far left) and Asinelli stand today.Mock up of Asinelli Tower, with cutaways showing the staircase inside.Canale delle Moline ... by an anonymous Bolognese painter (1852).Palazzo della Mercanzia with WWII damage ... compared to my photo from last October.Diorama of the Battle of Fossalta (1249) in which the Bolognese captured King Enzo of Sardinia."The Stolen Bucket" ... now a symbol of Modena ... a war trophy stolen from the Bolognese in 1325.Powerful family politics at play ... marriage of Giovanni (II) Bentivoglio and Geneva Sforza.Charles V was crowned King of Italy and Holy Roman Emperor in Bologna in 1530.Ceiling detail depicting Juno ... by 18th century Bolognese painters.The famous school of Bolognese puppeteers was born in the early 19th century.Piazza Maggiore with storytellers and puppeteers ... by an anonymous Bolognese painter.Ceiling detail depicting the Apotheosis of Hercules ... early 18th century Bolognese painters.The Plague of 1630 in Bologna ... by an anonymous Bolognese painter of the 16th century.Cartoon scene with animals ... by Antonio Beccadelli, an 18th century Bolognese painter.The history of the art of books in Bologna began before the birth of the printing press.Ceiling detail depicting Diana with Cupid ... early 18th century Bolognese painters.Majolica ceramic set commissioned by the Duke of Montpensier ... workshop of Angelo Minghetti.Bust of Eliza, older sister of Napoleon Bonaparte; Napoleon's mirror from Villa Aldini.Tricolor silk shawl and vest (c. 1848).Aemilia Ars: an influential Bolognese artistic & craft society founded in 1898 ... for applied arts.Marconi, born in Bologna in 1874, is a representative of the city's technological heritage.Giorgio Morandi's "White Road."Frida Kahlo: The Gaze as Identity” ... temporary exhibit at the History of Bologna Museum.

    Storia di Bologna & Frida

    April 8 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Palazzo Pepoli Vecchio, our destination this morning, is a medieval fortress and noble residence in Bologna … constructed in 1344 by Taddeo Pepoli, the city’s first lord.

    But that was then.

    Today, the palace is home to the Museo della Storia di Bologna (the Museum of the History of Bologna) … with exhibits covering the city’s growth and transformation from its roots as the Etruscan city of Felsina (founded c. 510 BC), through the Roman era when it was known as Bononia (founded 189 BC), to medieval times, and more recent periods.

    Within the 36 rooms of the museum, one finds stories of important events and notable people who left their mark in the pages of history books. Objects and art add interest … designed to visually enhance the written material on the panels.

    With all the text in Italian, this is a museum where making use of the audio guide is essential. Since our visit today was intended as an overview, we decided to skip the audio this time and rely on the laminated cards for an overview of the theme of each room. Our attention focused on topics that we are more or less familiar with. When we return for a more in depth visit, we’ll get the audio guides and explore at a slower pace.

    Before we wandered through the museum proper, we checked out the temporary photographic exhibition installed on the ground floor of the museum … “Frida Kahlo: The Gaze as Identity.”

    The photos are all of Kahlo staring into the camera with her signature, unblinking gaze that became “… an integral part of her identity and, subsequently, of her legend.” The photographic portraits present “… a shifting and multifaceted image: there is the Frida captured by the gaze of her lover, the gallery owner, her closest friends, and the most renowned photographers; but also the one observed by reporters and her fellow Hispanic-Americans. …” The exhibit was an interesting glimpse into the woman and her life. Sorry … photography not allowed.

    We wrapped up our outing with lunch at Trattoria da Giampi e Ciccio, described as a no frills place that serves traditional dishes. For a change, I ordered the whole wheat cordonetti pasta with julienned prosciutto and sautéed zucchini; Mui opted for the Cotoletto alla Bolognese … basically a breaded veal cutlet topped with a thin slice of prosciutto and drowned in a creamy cheese sauce. The presentation of the dishes was indeed no frills … the taste, however, was spot on.

    Card Cultura Update: admission to the museum was free, thus saving us €7 each; the temporary exhibit wasn’t covered, but we did get a discount of €4 each. After today’s outing, I have €4 left to break even on the Card Cultura … Mui is €3 behind me.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    At the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.
    Tulips at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Frilled tulip at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Frilled tulips at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Japanese cherry tree blooms at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Geraniaceae erodium pelargoniflorum ... at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.At the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Japanese Camellia at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Tulips at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.One of the original citrus fruits from which all other citrus types developed through hybridization.The Canale delle Moline (Mill Canal) is a continuation of the Reno Canal — Bologna.Canale delle Moline ... from the other direction several streets over — Bologna.Finestrella di Via Piella (Little Window of Via Piella) is at the far end — Bologna.Antique door handles — Bologna, Italy.Lunch at Trattoria Montanara — Bologna, Italy.Lunch at Trattoria Montanara — Bologna, Italy.Stained glass panel at the entrance of a church — Bologna, Italy.Limestone wall panel on a building — Bologna, Italy.Victory/Due Torri mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.Mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.Mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.Mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.

    L’Orto Botanico e l’Erbario

    April 6 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Spring is definitely making its presence known with another day in a series of blue skies, sunshine, and comfy temperatures. Hope it’s here to stay … at least for a while.

    After breakfast, we headed off to check out the Botanic Garden and Herbarium of the University of Bologna. Established in the 16th century, the garden is amongst the oldest in Europe.

    The sign at the entrance indicated that the grounds cover some two hectares, reaching as far as the ancient city walls. It didn’t feel that big to us … but then a good chunk of the garden was off-limits … perhaps being restored. Nor were the greenhouses open. In that respect, our outing was a bit disappointing. But we did get to stroll in a peaceful setting on a beautiful spring day, so that was lovely.

    From the botanic garden, our steps took us to our old neighborhood … Irnerio … where we stayed in an AirBNB for nearly three weeks during our recon trip last fall. We checked out the canal … dry last fall; water flowing now. And stopped to photograph some murals/street art and antique door accessories.

    Since we were in the area, we decided to have lunch at our favorite restaurant … Trattoria Montanara … where we had our very first meal in Bologna last fall. Our timing was perfect. No sooner were we seated at a table on the sidewalk that the place filled up … inside and out.

    A half-liter carafe of red wine … Sangiovese. A delicious shredded artichoke salad to start …. garnished with shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, EVOO, balsamic vinegar, and pine nuts. We both ordered the tagliatelle al ragù as our main dish and finished with gelato topped with Fabbri cherries. All delicious … all top-notch food … as one might expect in Italy’s culinary capital.

    A very pleasant spring outing to kick off another week of our expat life in Italy.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Hiking up through San Michele di Bosco Park to the church visible through the trees — Bologna.
    Exterior and bell tower of the Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco (scan from postcard) — Bologna, Italy.Panorama of the city view from the terrace at San Michele in Bosco — Bologna.Basilica di San Petronio (L); Asinelli Tower (R) ... San Michele in Bosco — Bologna.Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Presbytery at Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Dome over the high altar ... Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Looking back from the presbytery toward the back of Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Sacristy ... Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.One of the chapels at Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Open confessional ... priest on the left of the divider ... Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — BolognaDetail from the open confessional Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Gate connecting the long corridor with the Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Now doctor's offices, behind the doors were once cells where the monks lived.Meridian Line in the long corridor ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, ItalyThe length of the corridor causes a telescoping effect of the view through the window — Bologna.Mural in the long corridor ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Clock/fresco ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Entrance to the glassed-in central cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Central cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Central cloister (postcard; this side now under construction) ... Complex of San Michele in BoscoEnd of glass-enclosed corridor ... central cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco.Bell Tower from the Octagonal cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Fresco in the octagonal cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.View of the Bologna hills from Giardino Remo Scoto — Bologna, Italy.

    San Michele in Bosco

    April 4 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    On the flight from İzmir to Bologna last fall, Mui’s seat-mate was a Bolognese man who suggested that going up to San Michele in Bosco to see the best view of Bologna should be on our list of things to do. We didn’t make it there back then.

    When today dawned as a beautiful spring day — with blue skies and sunshine, and a forecast of 72F as the high temp — we headed off to do as the man had suggested.

    First a walk through the city … to a new-to-us area of Bologna. Then, leaving the urban setting behind at Giardino Remo Scoto, a hike through the San Michele in Bosco Park. The dirt path up to the top of the hill was wide, grass and trees on either side. Nothing manicured about this park … it was all natural. Quiet, too. The only people we encountered were locals walking their dogs off-the-leash … all well-trained and well-behaved … the dogs, that is.

    Catching a glimpse of the church at the top through the trees, we enjoyed a brief commune with nature.

    Our outing may have started out just for the purpose of enjoying aerial views of Bologna. But we found so much more to explore once at the top of the hill.

    San Michele in Bosco, which translates as San Michele in the Forest, was built as a monumental monastic complex on the site of previous monastic settlements dating back to the 4th century. It was rebuilt by the Olivetan monks after they arrived in 1364.

    Over the following centuries, the monastery was abandoned, re-settled, and renovated … sometimes used for its original religious purpose, at other times as military barracks, a jail, a villa for a pontifical legate, and a residence for the King of Italy. At the end of the 19th century, the monastery was converted into what became one of the best orthopedic hospitals in the world.

    Checking out the views, next, we wandered into the church … single nave with several chapels, the presbytery and the high altar at the top of a staircase with a marble portal. A quick peek into the sacristy with a beautiful fresco at the back of the room; a careful look at the open confessionals with beautiful details.

    Going through a door at the far end of the presbytery, we were hoping to find the cloisters … the unusual octagonal one promising more frescos. We found both eventually, but first we found ourselves in a 530-foot long corridor lined with doors. Here were the rooms that once served as monks’ cells. Each one now has a sign indicating it’s an office for a doctor. We had inadvertently entered the Rizzoli Orthopedic Institute.

    Of interest in the corridor were several frescos; a Meridian Line similar to the one we saw in the Basilica di San Petronio last fall; and the window through which one can see the city view. The window is aligned with the top of Asinelli Tower. As I understand it, the length of the corridor causes a perceptual illusion. Moving away from the window, the tower looks bigger than it does when you move closer. We were about to test this out when we were distracted by what sounded like a door being locked.

    It was 11:55a and, as it turns out, the door connecting the corridor to the church had indeed been locked for siesta! The good news? We were able to walk around the hospital complex at leisure, check out the cloisters, and eventually make our way outside to a garden at the Institute … a bench in the shade served as a place for us to have a quick snack before hiking down.

    A fun outing … one that gave us an unexpected chance to explore new-to-us sights. There’s still plenty to see at the San Michele in Bosco Monumental Complex. Perhaps we’ll make an appointment for a tour next time.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    A fun time at TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.
    TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.A riot of color @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Picking tulips @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Picking tulips @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Lady bug & tulip @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.I make a friend at TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.All set with our bouquet @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Our bouquet from TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Placed in cold water ... no vase; Mui 'McGyver' made one out of a plastic water bottle.

    A Stroll Among Tulips

    April 3 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Ask people where tulips originated and the answer you will get from most is “the Netherlands.”

    That’s partly true … but only in that the Dutch commercialized the flower to the point that tulips became an economic and cultural symbol of the country. They are responsible for the branding, if you will.

    In actual fact, tulips were first cultivated by the Ottoman Turks as early as the 10th century. In fact, the flower gave its name to the period in Ottoman history known as the Lâle Devri (Tulip Era) … from 1718 to 1730 … a time of peace, and artistic and cultural significance. It was toward the latter part of the 16th century that tulip bulbs were introduced to the Netherlands … and they ran with it!

    End of the history lesson. Now for today’s story.

    Last week, we came across mention of a place called TuliPark … a tulip farm, really. It is the brainchild of a company that has over 40 years of experience in the flower sector … initially a family-run operation.

    Every year a “blooming festival” is held at TuliPark, which mimics the Dutch countryside in several cities around Italy … Bologna, Bari, and Rome to mention a few. The farm is open to visitors sometime in March/April … the dates varying a bit depending on the weather and growing conditions. The rest of the year, the fields are maintained and prepared for the planting of new bulbs.

    We decided to wait until this week to visit TuliPark, monitoring the blooming updates on the website. After several overcast days, when the sun came out and the sky shed its gloomy grey for brilliant blue, we decided to head there today … with the bloom forecast at 85%.

    To get to TuliPark, we hopped on bus 11B from a stop near the apartment. After a 30-minute or so ride, we got off across the road from the park to find fields covered in a riot of color … what we would call a “renk cümbüşü” in Turkish.

    Row after row of tulips in varied shades of red, burgundy, orange, yellow, pink, purple, and pristine white … some striped; some fringed. It was such a delight to walk amongst the rows of colorful blooms … stopping for photo ops that begged to be taken. The scene was simply … well, magical would be one way of describing it. That there were very few people visiting while we were there was a bonus. (I imagine we had an advantage over waiting for the 100% bloom, which falls on Easter weekend this year, and promises fields packed with visitors.)

    Admission is charged to enter TuliPark … €9pp. In return, you get three tulips each free … additional blooms at €1 each. The best part? You get to pick your own tulips and take home a bouquet in a symphony of colors of your own choosing.

    You don’t get to keep the bulbs, however. If the bulb remains attached to the tulip, as was the case with most of the ones we picked because the recent rain had softened the soil, the staff snip it off. They don’t do this to replant the bulbs themselves. Nor do they throw them away. Rather, these bulbs are donated to schools and institutes and municipalities. A form of civic-minded charity that is to be applauded.

    We had a wonderful time at TuliPark and look forward to revisiting next year.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    This temporary exhibition briefly took us to Japan today — Bologna, Italy.
    Graphic Japan Exhibition at the Museum of Archaeology — Bologna, Italy.Wild Geese ... Illustrated Notebook Series (1713, Edo Period) ... Graphic Japan Exhibition.Pair of mandarin ducks on a frozen pond beneath falling leaves (U. Hiroshige; 1840-1843, Edo Period)Pair of cranes with young's, pine tree and rising sun ... from Kyōsai's drawings for pleasure.Poster for Nihonshu (Japanese sake) ... by N. Kazumasa — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Long-sleeved kimono from the first half of the 19th century, Edo Period — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Hand-carved paper stencil with turtle motif for fabric dyeing (late 19th century; Meiji Era).Obis from the 19th century — Graphic Japan Exhibition.OK Moon Color (M. Keizo) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Suijin Shrine Forest and the Massaki Region along the Sumida River (100 Famous Views of Edo Series).Toto Norenkai (an Association of Long-Established Shops) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Hara. View of Mount Fuji & Ashitakayama (Famous Places along the 53 Stations of the Tōkaidō).Kimono ... taken before I noticed this one had a "No Photos" sign — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Beauty writing a letter (Series: 5 Types of Female Beauty ... K. Utamaro; 1803-1804, Edo Period).Ichikawa Danjūrō [as Soga Gorō] ... U. Toyokuni (1814) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Graphic Japan Exhibition — Bologna, Italy.Graffiti caricatures of actors on warehouse walls (U. Kuniyoshi; 1848, Edo Period) — Graphic Japan.Forest and Woods (Y. Ryūichi; reprint 1990) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.NOH-UCLA — Japanese Traditional Performing Arts (K. Mitsuo; 2017 poster) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Welcome to Japan (N. Masayoshi; 1988 poster) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Owl on a pine branch and rising moon (U. Hiroshige; c. 1830, Edo Period) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Japonism in Italian posters ... "Madama Butterfly" (L. Metlicovitz; c. 1904) — Graphic Japan.Graphic Japan Exhibition — Bologna, Italy.

    Graphic Japan

    March 30 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today, we left Italy for Japan … at least for an hour or so!

    When Mui bought our Card Culturas from the Bologna Welcome Center several weeks ago, he was given a packet of brochures. Among them was a postcard promoting a temporary exhibition … “Graphic Japan: from Hokusai to Manga” … installed at the Museum of Archaeology.

    While the Card Cultura gives us free admission to the museum, temporary exhibits are not covered. We did get a €2 discount on the 65+ admission, reducing the hit to our wallet to €12pp.

    The exhibition is described as “…visually chronicling the fundamental stages of Japanese graphic design, journeying from the Edo period (1603-1868) to the present day. … It explores the reasons behind the global success of Japanese graphic art, from ukiyo-e prints (images of the "Floating World") to contemporary posters and manga. …”

    The exhibition, which consists of 200+ works that are on loan, is divided into four themes … nature, figures, sign, and contemporary Japonism. Through the various works, the exhibition tells “… a rich story of the evolution of Japanese graphics, showcasing its connection to calligraphy, typography, design, fashion, and even film. The exhibition highlights key artists and themes from different eras, showing how techniques and subjects have changed while maintaining the recognizable visual essence of Japanese culture.”

    When we decided to check out the exhibition, which ends on 6 April, we didn’t know exactly what to expect. The art on the walls and the display cases exceeded our expectations and we really enjoyed ourselves. Mui even got some inspiration for his own artistic endeavors.

    We wrapped up our outing with lunch at Trattoria La Corte Galluzzi … located in an inner courtyard that is first mentioned in a document from 1288. Delicious tagliatelle al ragù; a Cabernet Sauvignon that our palates enjoyed. Dessert was so-so, however, so when we return, we’ll skip a sweet treat there for some gelato elsewhere.

    *** Card Cultura Update … with the €2 discount on admission, I have €13 left to break even.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mui gets to work repairing the tear on the corner of the suitcase — Bologna, Italy.
    From that to this ... doesn't look pretty, but it will work — Bologna, Italy.

    Mui “McGyver”

    March 29 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Unfortunately, one of the suitcases we shipped from Colorado Springs to Bologna was badly damaged en route.

    Mui figured he could perhaps repair the bag. So, he put his ‘McGyver hat’ on and came up with a solution. A bunch of zip ties … black, of course; a tube of heavy duty adhesive. And voilà … the tear is patched up.

    It doesn’t look pretty, but it will do the trick if we need to use the bag to ship stuff somewhere.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Casa Carducci ... Giosuè and Elvira lived in the apartment on the first floor — Bologna, Italy.
    Antique doorbells @ Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.The circular staircase in the foyer goes up to the Carducci apartment — Bologna, Italy.There are bookcases everywhere in the apartment, but this room is officially designated the library.Ceiling detail from the library of Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's study ... where he spent most of his days ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's study ... portrait of Dante ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's Nobel Prize certificate for literature ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.The study ... plaster caricature of Carducci in the act of polishing the "Italian boot."Ceiling detail from Carducci's study ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's bedroom ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Basin in the corner of Carducci's bedroom ... operational from 1901 onwards.Dining room ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Dining room ... refractory stone and masonry stove with decorations in relief — Casa Carducci.Elvira's bedroom at Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Barrel-vaulted ceiling in Elvira's bedroom at Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Painting of Carducci in Elvira's bedroom at Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Elvira's drawing room ... the picture of the little girl is their daughter, Libertà (Titti).Ceiling detail from Elvira's drawing room ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Walnut shelf and alabaster objects in Elvira's drawing room ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.

    Casa Carducci

    March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    As I mentioned in the previous footprint, the Museo Civico del Risorgimento is housed on the ground floor of Casa Carducci. On the first floor above, is the apartment where the Carducci family lived.

    Before leaving the museum, I asked if I could take a look at the apartment … included in my free admission. No problem. With another explanatory booklet in hand, I was escorted upstairs by one of the employees.

    Casa Carducci dates back to the 16th century. It was built as a church, and before that, as an oratory. In 1712, the place of worship was destroyed by a fire and subsequently rebuilt. Following the Napoleonic occupation at the end of the 18th century, it was sold to wealthy merchants, who expanded the building. The house owes its current form to that expansion work. Carducci and his wife lived here from 1890 to 1907, when Giosuè died.

    Carducci’s book collection is behind glass-fronted bookcases, but everything else in the apartment is out in the open. No surprise then that the escort dogged my footsteps from room to room. She had her own booklet and used it to identify and read about the many objects on display, while I did the same … taking time to photograph some of the items … including the Nobel certificate Carducci received for literature … the news of which was given to him in the study by the Swedish Ambassador.

    While there is electricity in the apartment, the light is dim. It made taking photos challenging, but I managed to click the shutter on the phone enough times to have a collection of images to share here.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Casa Carducci, a national monument ... the museum is housed on the ground floor — Bologna.
    Uniform of the Royal Velites and the National Guard of Bologna; gala jacket & dignitary suit.Medallions representing Gioacchino Murat & Caroline Bonaparte; King & Queen of Naples (1808-1812).Hilts of swords for deputation ... 18th century (top) and 19th century.Mitre & pastoral staff that were used to adorn the statue of Gregorio XIII @ Palazzo Comunale (1797)Ceiling detail from the exhibit hall of the Museo Civico del Risorgimento — Bologna.Silk handkerchief celebrating the amnesty granted by Pope Pio IX to political prisoners.Turtle shell rings with patriotic inscriptions (1848).Uniforms of the Battalion of Hope ... consisting of Bolognese pupils."Dance Around the Tree of Liberty on the Bridge on Via Lame in Bologna (1849)" ... by Belvederi.Tree of Liberty (replica) ... an important Jacobean symbol revived during the 1848-49 revolution.Roof detail and patriotic silk handkerchiefs.Uniforms of Garibaldi's red shirts; and the only one that was coffee-colored (with a bullet hole).Uniform of the Garibaldine Guides w/red forage cap; anonymous portrait of Garibaldi.Model of the National Holiday of the Statute 1860.Portrait of Vittorio Emanuele II; 1st king of the Unified Italy (by Elisabeth Modell; 1859).Jacket, haversack, helmet "Adrian" model; 1916 antigas mask — WWI exhibit.WWI propaganda posters for Italian war loans.Model of the air-raid protection for Fontana del Nettuno (L); the fountain as it is today (my photo)Mui's home improvement project ... insect screen installation — Bologna, Italy.

    Museo Civico del Risorgimento di Bologna

    March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    We went our separate ways this morning … meeting up for lunch at Il Duca di Amalfi for a quick bite following our individual outings.

    Mui headed to Casalecchio to run some errands. Namely, to get materials to put up insect screens. The use of such screens doesn’t seem to be prevalent in Italy … at least around the Centro Storico of Bologna. We have neither a balcony nor a terrace at the apartment, and like to open the windows to ‘bring the outside in’ …. get some fresh air. Hence, a home improvement project for Mui. The screen material is easy enough to cut to size and tack up with a strip designed for that purpose. Two windows down … three or more to go.

    In the meantime, I headed out to a museum that Mui showed little interest in visiting.

    The word Risorgimento literally translates as resurgence or rising again. This civic museum, which was inaugurated in 1893, focuses on the 19th century political and social movement that resulted in the Unification of Italy.

    It was founded to (1) instill “… patriotic ideals in the general public, and particularly in the younger generations;” and (2) “… promote historical research on the recent past …”. To accomplish the latter, a library was founded in 1904, but is housed elsewhere in the city.

    The museum covers the time frame from the Napoleonic Age through WWI … the latter considered the conclusion of the Italian unification process. The exhibits in the display cases are accordingly laid out, with the periods in between covering European Restoration, Italian Unification, and United Italy.

    Currently, the museum’s exhibit space is housed on the ground floor of Casa Carducci … a national monument that was once the home of writer/poet Giosuè Carducci.

    A 20-25 minute walk on a very pleasant day brought me from the apartment to the museum, where I presented my Card Cultura to receive free admission. During the entire time I was there, I had the place to myself. I didn’t mind that at all 😉.

    There is little to read at the museum … except for some proclamations, leaflets, declarations, and such. I imagine most of the written material is in the library. I would categorize the museum more as an exhibit of artifacts, of which just a small portion of the museum’s collection is on display.

    There is no signage … just numbers identifying the items in each case. No worries. I was given a booklet that allowed me to match items with descriptions. My booklet was in English, but I imagine they have them in other languages as well. Having the place to myself allowed me to take my time viewing, identifying, and photographing some of the exhibited items. The latter was a challenge since all but a few were in glass display cases, but I did my best.

    P.S Saved another €3 (65+ admission) … leaving me with €12 to break even on my Card Cultura purchase.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Arco del Follo, a historical gate with a Latin inscription to Napoleon, who visited in 1797.
    Chiesa Parrocchiale dei SS Pietro Ap. e Prospero V — Reggio Emilia, Italy.2Portico in Reggio Emilia, Italy.Mural in Reggio Emilia, Italy.Entrance to Palazzo Sacrati — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Reggio Emilia is the birthplace of the Italian Tricolor flag ... first adopted in 1797.Courtyard and mural at Galleria del Monte — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Market in Piazza Prampolini and the clock tower at Palazzo Monte di Pietá — Reggio Emilia, Italy.2Piazza Prampolini and the clock tower at Palazzo Monte di Pietá — Reggio Emilia, Italy.The clock tower and the Duomo ... Piazza Prampolini — Reggio Emilia, ItalyMadonna and the child with the Fiordibelli couple ... on the Duomo tower — Reggio Emilio, Italy.The Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Dome of the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Fresco @ the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) — Reggio Emilia, Italy.The Crostolo Statue in Piazza Prampolini ... names for the stream that flows through the city.2Via della Croce Bianca in B&W — Reggio Emilia, Italy.The Broletto Passage links Piazza Prampolini and Piazza di S. Prospero — Reggio Emilio, Italy.Piazza and Basilica di S. Prospero — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Piazza di S. Prospero — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio (Church of Saint George) where the Ukrainian Greek Catholic community worship.Chiesa del Cristo ... the Orthodox Church — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Chiesa del Cristo ... the Orthodox Church — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Building entry in the historic center — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Colorful side street in the historic center — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Detail from doors in the historic center (the two on the right are bell pulls — Reggio Emilia, Italy

    Reggio Emilia: A Day Trip from Bologna

    March 25 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Our days of waking up at the crack of dawn to get ready and rush off to go sightseeing are long over. These days, we’re more relaxed about exploring.

    That said, we are realizing that if we are going on a day trip — especially somewhere less tourist-oriented — we need to consider picking up the pace at home and not dally too much. Maybe just grabbing a cappuccino and cornetto from a pasticceria instead of having a sit down breakfast at home would help.

    You see, there’s this thing called siesta here, and sometimes that adversely impacts our plans. That was the case today. In our defense, when we checked the hours of operation for a few of the sites at our destination, there was no indication of siesta closures.

    Regardless, we had a great time in Reggio Emilia … a less touristy charming city and the birthplace of the Italian Tricolor flag. But we had to switch our plans around a bit and focus more on a stroll and lunch than visiting specific places.

    Leaving the apartment around 10:30a, we hopped on a bus to get to Bologna Centrale … a test run, if you will, to see how the bus system works … paying for our tickets by tapping with Apple Pay. While some buses turn into the train station to drop off passengers, this one left us across the street.

    Once in the station, we purchased our tickets for the 11:35a train, opting to pay for the slightly more expensive InterCity train to save time … €10pp … Reggio Emilio the second stop on the line. We arrived at our destination about 25 minutes ahead of schedule. Not sure how that happened, but no complaints.

    A meandering 20-minute walk to Centro Storico — as per Google Maps — took a bit longer since we stopped for a few photos along the way. Eventually, we arrived at Piazza Prampolini … in the heart of the historic center. The square was hopping with a market that was doing a bustling business selling clothing, household linens, and the like.

    This square is overlooked by the Duomo … Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta; the clock tower, and the city hall … which is also where one finds the Tricolor Hall. We only had a chance to go inside the cathedral, which was built in 857 and modified several times over the centuries.

    I was really hoping to see the 4th century Roman mosaic floor that was discovered under the Duomo, but we were barely inside when the caretaker began locking the doors. He was nice enough to give me a chance to run around and take a few photos, and might have allowed me to see the mosaic floor as well, but I didn’t want to take advantage of his kindness.

    After wandering around the market and taking photos of the clock tower at the far end of the piazza, we walked through the Broletto Passage to Piazza di S. Prospero … behind the cathedral and overlooked by the basilica for which the square is named.

    Spotting tables set up in the square, we decided to check it out for lunch. The prices were in line with what we’ve seen at places that cater to the locals and the menu looked good. Although it was a little cool in the shade, we opted to sit in the square and combine our meal with people watching.

    Sipping a glass of Lambrusco, a regional sparkling wine made with black grapes, we perused the menu — €13 for a main course, water … plain or fizzy, coffee or dessert. I ordered the spinach tortellini served with sage butter; Mui ordered a platter of cold cuts accompanied by Stracchio (Italian cream cheese, if you will) and warm tigelle (small round flatbreads … originally from Modena). Dessert — rice cake, a local specialty, and a lemon cake — wrapped up our tasty lunch.

    After our meal break, we strolled around the historic center, burning off some of the calories from lunch and continuing to explore the city. We window-shopped, got lost in narrow side streets, and peeked into a couple of churches where we found the doors open. Eventually, taking a meandering route back, we returned to the train station for the 3:35p regional train back to Bologna … a few more stops than our train this morning; a 45-minute ride; €7pp.

    From the train station, we hopped on a bus that took us close to Piazza Maggiore where we went to Windtre, our Italian cell service provider, to renew our monthly plan. And then a slow stroll to the apartment where we put up our feet for a quiet evening at home.

    Another great day of exploring what the region offers … even if we had to jiggle our plans a bit.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Courtyard with trompe-l'oeil fresco by Luigi Busatti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.
    Courtyard with trompe-l'oeil fresco by Luigi Busatti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Ceiling in the ticket office ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.In the ticket office ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Monumental Staircase ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Monumental Staircase ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.In the entry to the museum wing ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Sala alla Boschericcia ... and two of four sixteenth-century chromatic harps in the world — MIBdM.One of the four sixteenth-century chromatic harps in the world; Harmonicorum volume (1636).Sala alla Boschericcia ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Sala di Enea ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Sala di Enea ... from Father Martini's collection ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala di Enea ceiling detail ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna,Sala della Zodiaco ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala di Enzo ... pianoforte with floral decorations ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna.Sala del Gabinetto ceiling detail ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM.Sala delle Feste ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala delle Feste ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala delle Feste ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala all'Orientale ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala all'Orientale; model of Bologna's Teatro Comunale ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna.Sala all'Orientale ... watercolor sketch of a costume from an opera ... c. 1740 ... MIBdM — Bologna.Sala del Gazebo ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala del Gazebo ... bust of Wagner and the score and libretto for his "Lohengrin" — MIBdM.Sala del Gazebo ... Rossini memorabilia and sketch of him in his death bed — MIBdM.Sala della Virtù ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala della Virtù ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala della Virtù ... buccin with a dragon head ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala Grottesca ceiling detail ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy

    Museo Intl. e Biblioteca della Musica

    March 22 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    The International Museum and Library of Music … our destination when we left the house this morning.

    I’ll be honest … it wasn’t the musical instruments on display that drew me to the museum. Rather, it was a couple of photos showing the setting in which the items are exhibited … rooms decorated with frescos. That said, I came away after our visit with an appreciation for more than just the frescos.

    We arrived at Palazzo Sanguinetti, the 16th century palace in which the museum is housed … since 2004. The frescos, as I understand it, were restored after the building was donated to the city. The original paintings date back to the 18th-19th century and are representative of the city’s Napoleonic and Neoclassical period.

    Stopping by the ticket office first, we showed our card culturas and received our free admission tickets … saved €3 each … 65+ rate.

    Our steps then took us toward the courtyard, which seemed very familiar. Ah yes, it was the feature photo in the New York Times article our friend Kadi sent us a few weeks ago … a trompe-l’oeil fresco fronted by a green space … visible at the end of an arched portico.

    Selfie taken, we headed up the amazing monumental staircase to the museum itself … on the piano nobile … aka the floor on which the principal rooms of the palazzo are located. Showing our tickets to the attendant at the desk, we then went on a DIY tour through the nine rooms that make up the museum.

    It is to Father Gianbattista Martini that Bologna owes its music collection as it was the padre’s own collection that formed the nucleus around which it all grew. Described as “… one of the most illustrious and complex personalities” of the 18th century music world of Europe, he was not only a scholar, historian, and composer, he was one of the best music teachers in Europe. Counting Bach and Mozart amongst his many famous students, this “Father of all Masters” was also an avid collector … manuscripts, opera librettos, autographs and letters, effigies of musicians, and more.

    The first room we entered — the Sala alla Boschereccia — set in motion a lot of WOW moments where we studied what was in the display cases, as well as on the walls and ceilings. Being careful so as not to crane my head too far back, and thus trigger a vertigo episode, I wasn’t able to check out all the fresco details to my satisfaction … but that’s just something I have to get used to.

    Each room of the museum has a theme, if you will. Rooms 2 and 3 are dedicated to Father Martini … not surprising. The themes continue with the idea of music; and operas, manuscripts, and instruments … segregated by centuries; and musicians such as Farinelli and Rossini.

    Another fantastic museum experience in Bologna. As has been the case with all of our museum visits so far, this one was of an exploratory nature. I look forward to returning for a more in depth visit, and also to check out the music library (across the hall from the museum) … there are more frescos there that are calling my name.

    So, if I came away with an appreciation for more than just the frescos, you might ask why there are so few photos of the instruments, music scores and librettos, and portraits of the greats of classical music in this footprint. Alas, with a few exceptions, the instruments were all inside glass cases … as was the written material … too much glare to get decent photos. As for the portraits, this time they did take a back seat to the frescos.

    P.S. We now have €18pp to go to break even on our €25pp Card Cultura purchase.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Portico at Piazza Minghetti — Bologna, Italy.
    Portico at Piazza Minghetti — Bologna, Italy.Via de' Pepoli — Bologna, Italy.2Via de' Pepoli — Bologna, Italy.The first Maserati workshop ... temporarily closed — Bologna, Italy.Flea market ... Piazza Santo Stefano — Bologna, Italy.Entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher ... Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano — Bologna.Chapel of the Madonna of the Consolation ... Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano — Bologna.Door within a door ... on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Getting ready for Easter ... on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Impromptu art exhibit inside the 17th century gallery of Palazzo Segni — Bologna, Italy.Ceiling detail from the 17th century gallery of Palazzo Segni — Bologna, Italy.Antique door handles ... at a building on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Window display on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Entrance gate at Palazzo Pepoli Vecchio ... decorated with the heraldic chessboard of the family.Entrance gate at Palazzo Pepoli Vecchio ... decorated with the heraldic chessboard of the family.Torre degli Asinelli ... from Via Castiglione — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Cassa Risparmio — Piazza Minghetti — Bologna, Italy.Detail from the Poste Italiane building on Via de' Toschi— Bologna, Italy.Galleria Cavour ... a high-end shopping mall — Bologna, Italy.Mui making rabbit ears @ Galleria Cavour — Bologna, Italy.Easter decoration at Galleria Cavour — Bologna, Italy.

    Street Photography

    March 22 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We left the apartment this morning with a specific destination in mind.

    We made it there, no worries.

    But I’ll share that story and the images from that part of our day in another footprint.

    I keep telling myself to keep the phone in my pocket when we are heading somewhere so that I am not tempted to take photos. I inevitably fail. Bologna just has so many interesting things that catch my eye.

    On today’s wander, we came across a flea market in Piazza Santo Stefano; found the door to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher open — part of Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano (aka the Seven Churches) — and checked out a chapel on a hall that was behind a locked door when we visited last fall; walked by the the first Maserati workshop … a museum of sorts that is currently closed; spied all kinds of interesting doors and antique knockers; window shopped at sweets shops that are colorfully decorated in anticipation of Easter; caught glimpses of Torre degli Asinelli — one of the two leaning towers of Bologna — peeking above buildings lining narrow streets; and even strolled through the all but deserted Galleria Cavour … with its budget-buster brand shops.

    A delightful stroll to be sure.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The Due Torri from Via Rizzoli ... Garisenda on the left; Asinelli on the right — Bologna, Italy.
    Gelateria Gianni — Bologna, Italy.1Chocolate and cream with cherries ... delicious, creamy gelato from Gianni — Bologna, Italy."It's not gelato; it's happiness" ... seen in the window at Gelateria Gianni — Bologna, Italy.

    Pizza & Gelato

    March 21 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    After doing chores all day yesterday, and spending much of today working on projects while we waited for an Amazon delivery, we decided to wrap up our day by treating ourselves to pizza and gelato.

    Weekends tend to find Bologna’s Centro Storico crowded with visitors from far and wide. Today was no exception … groups of scouts, both boys and girls, adding quite a bit to the numbers enjoying the evening. Wading through the crowds on our way out, we returned to the apartment later by way of quieter side streets.

    An early dinner at Pizzeria Nettuno was our primary goal … very good as usual. Followed by a sweet treat from Gelateria Gianni … near the Due Torri, the two leaning towers that are iconic landmarks of Bologna … Garisenda and Asinelli.

    We discovered the renowned gelateria last fall. Established in the mid-1970s, it is billed as a “… historic artisan gelateria known for its traditional Bolognese gelato.” That being the case, I’m not sure why they use open bins to display their gelato. After all, high-quality gelato is stored in metal canisters with lids … to protect the product from light, air, and temperature fluctuations. At least, I’ve never seen ‘fluffy gelato mountains’ in the display cases. Nonetheless, we enjoy an occasional cone or two of the interesting flavors on the shop’s menu.

    By the way, Gianni’s fame is about to grow further. It was one of the two gelaterias recommended in a recent New York Times article about Bologna. (Thanks for the article, Kadi.)

    P.S. The second gelateria mentioned in the article was Sorbetteria Castiglione. We passed by it on our way back from Giardini Margherita earlier this week. Would have checked it out, but the shop was closed. We’ll try again another time.

    P.P.S. Yes, Garisenda and Asinelli are both leaning towers, the former more so than the latter. I really was too close for a proper photo this evening … so, forgive the very odd angles in the image included with this footprint. I promise there will be better ones in future footprints.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    What I thought were silk trees from a distance turned out to be real trees — Bologna, Italy.
    Another one of the many historic porticos of the city — Bologna, Italy.From our city stroll — Bologna, Italy.Mural near a poster announcing the gelato festival scheduled for April — Bologna, Italy.From our city stroll — Bologna, Italy.An antique door knocker From our city stroll — Bologna, Italy.Torresotto di Strada Castiglione — Bologna, Italy.Santuario della Madonna Baraccano ... from Giardini Margherita — Bologna, Italy.Spring has sprung ... what's left of the blooms ... Giardini Margherita — Bologna, Italy.Spring has sprung ... what's left of the blooms ... Giardini Margherita — Bologna, Italy.Private garden with spring blooms — Bologna, Italy.Portico del Baraccano ... quite different from other porticos in the city — Bologna, Italy.Fresco surround ... Teatro del Baraccano — Bologna, Italy.Another portico ... this one with a lumber ceiling — Bologna, Italy.An interesting antique door knocker — Bologna, Italy.All things Pinnochio, but what I found interesting was the old stove ... my grandma had one like it.Even an ironing board from IKEA requires some assembly 😂 ... 16-page instruction booklet included.Fixing the kick plates so they don't keep falling — Bologna, Italy.IKEA big box deliveries ... assembly work ... and a trip to the paper recycling bin — Bologna.The entry coat/shoe closet and stool ... all assembled.Mui's been busy in the kitchen — Bologna, Italy.

    Stroll to Giardini Margherita

    March 19 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    A few days ago, we saw a photo of trees laden with pale pink spring blooms. It was taken at Giardini Margherita. Today, with the sun shining bright and the temp promising to be warmer than yesterday, we took a stroll to the gardens — more like a park really — to check them out for ourselves.

    We first visited the gardens, a favorite of the Bolognese, when we were here last October. It was a Sunday, and this green space in the city was crowded with families, couples young and old, and groups of friends enjoying the beautiful fall day.

    Today being a weekday, the gardens were quieter. Older couples strolling quiet paths, solo runners and bikers, an occasional nanny or young mom pushing a pram. It was a lovely, quiet setting amidst the hub-bub of the city. Alas, the trees were not filled with blooms as we expected … yesterday’s wind and cold temps must have taken their toll.

    No matter, we still enjoyed our visit … and walking along streets that we weren’t familiar with to get there and back gave us an opportunity to get to know our city a bit more. It was a nice change of pace from the errands and chores that are an essential part of daily life, regardless of where one lives.

    P.S. Sorry … no photos of the grounds at Giardini Margherita. Having taken those photos last fall, I neglected to do so this time. I’m sure we’ll go back at some point … I’ll try to remember to rectify the oversight then.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The main entrance of the Duomo — Modena, Italy.
    The Ghirlandia Tower and the Duomo ... you can see how much the building has settled in parts.The apse from the outside ... the building is so crooked that photographing it is a challenge.The Porta Regia ... through which we entered the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Detail from the Porta Regia @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.One of the two side chapels on the presbytery level of the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Interior decoration of the dome of the side chapel on the presbytery level — Modena, Italy.The central apse on the presbytery level of the Duomo — Modena, Italy.The central apse reminds me of a Byzantine church ... on the presbytery level of the Duomo — Modena.Inlaid wooden choir seats on the presbytery level of the Duomo — Modena, Italy.The reliquary arm of Saint Geminianus is behind the panel (R) in this chapel in the sacristy.2View from the bridge between the sacristy and the pier @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Fragments of medieval votive frescos @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Looking across the nave from the pier @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.The rose window @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.The crypt with the sepulcher of Saint Geminianus (center) @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Sculpture bases of the columns holding up the pier @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.The central apse and pier from the lower level of the Duomo — Modena, Italy.The Campione ambo from the 13th century @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Detail from the parapet showing scenes from the Passion of Christ @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Baptismal font and the frescoes at the Bellincini Chapel @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.Statue of Saint Geminianus @ the Duomo — Modena, Italy.The terracotta Altar of Statuettes — Modena, Italy.The terracotta Altar of Statuettes — Modena, Italy.Votive candles ... can you guess which one Mui lit? ... Duomo — Modena, Italy.

    Modena: Duomo

    March 14 in Italy

    From the Palazzo Comunale, we walked over to the Duomo di Modena … the cathedral for which the foundation stone was laid in 1099 … and where the funeral of Luciano Pavarotti, a favorite son of the city, was held in 2006.

    Together with the Ghirlandina Tower and the Piazza Grande, the Duomo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and Saint Geminianus, Modena’s patron saint. The discovery that Geminianus was buried under a church already on the site led to that church being torn down and replaced by today’s grand edifice.

    Tradition has it that the Romanesque style that the architect, Lanfranco, chose for the Duomo came to him as a divine inspiration. True or not, it is generally accepted that the construction of the Duomo in this style was the forerunner for the Romanesque art that subsequently flourished.

    We entered through the Porta Regia, the monumental entrance that overlooks Piazza Grande. Noticing a staircase to our right, we decided to go up first. Turns out that the stairs accessed the presbytery … admission charged … €3pp. The young woman at the ticket desk explained that the ticket also serves as a voucher for a discount to the cathedral museums. As the voucher is not date-specific, we opted to use it when we return to Modena another time.

    The chapels and central apse upstairs were quite interesting. In many ways, the paintings and mosaic work reminded me of Byzantine churches. From the pier that connects the two side aisles, we were able to look down the length of the cathedral below, with an interesting rose window at the far end … different from the ones we’ve seen before.

    The Sacristy, also on the upper level, is where one finds the reliquary arm of Saint Geminianus. It is thought that Pope Lucius III took a fragment of the saint’s arm when his tomb was opened in 1184. The reliquary is behind an embossed silver panel in the Sacristy … which is what we saw. The actual reliquary is brought out only on specific occasions.

    Under the raised presbytery is the crypt with the sepulcher of Saint Geminianus. Unlike other crypt’s we have visited that are under the church, this one is on the same level as the nave.

    After a brief visit to the crypt, we wandered around the rest of the Duomo, stopping to check out the sculptures holding up some of the columns of the pier; the details of the Campione ambo, which dates back to the 13th century; the parapet of the pier, which is decorated with bas-relief scenes from the Passion of Christ … the Last Supper prominently in the center; the 16th century terracotta Nativity; the marble baptismal font that sits in front of a 15th century fresco in the Bellincini Chapel; the 14th century wooden statue of Saint Geminianus … encased in a glass cabinet; and the Altar of Statuettes from the 15th century; and so much more.

    Though one would not necessarily call us ‘religious’, before we left the Duomo, Mui lit a candle and we said a prayer for family and friends.

    The Duomo of Modena is definitely deserving of its UNESCO-listing. There are so many details for one to search out … a guided tour might have to go on our ‘do-on-our-return list’ for Modena.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.
    Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Chamber of the Confirmed ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Hall of the Fire ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Coffered ceiling detail from the Hall of the Fire ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Detail from one of the frescos rimming the Hall of the Fire ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Period cabinet in the Hall of the Fire ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Wall detail ... Hall of the Fire ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Through the door is the Chamber of the Confirmed and the other halls beyond ... Hall of the Fire.The Hall of the Old Council ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Ceiling of the Hall of the Old Council ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Ceiling detail from the Hall of the Old Council ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.The opposite side of the Hall of the Old Council ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Hall of Tapestries ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Hall of Tapestries ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Hall of Weddings ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.Organ from the destroyed Church of St Geminiano ... Hall of Weddings ... Palazzo Comunale.Looking up at the ceiling and chandelier in the Hall of Weddings ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena.Perseus and the Head of the Medusa ... Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.

    Modena: Palazzo Comunale

    March 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    The Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall/Municipal Palace) is a complex that consists of a number 17th century buildings. At the time, each building served a different function.

    When we decided to detour to the palazzo, it was because we were looking for a higher vantage point to photograph the Duomo. We didn’t find a terrace with a view of Piazza Grande. But we hit the jackpot with a series of historical rooms, some of which were decorated with frescos and paintings.

    The Palazzo is open from 1:00p to 3:00p on Saturdays. We found that out after the fact, however. And technically, reservations are required for the free DIY tour. Oooops! In our defense, the clerk who saw us wandering around the rooms at 11:30a said nothing to us. At least we were well within the 32 minutes visitors are allowed for their visit.

    Doing a bit of research on the palazzo after we got home, I found a virtual tour (https://salestoriche.unesco.modena.it/en/) that gave me a hint of why we were perhaps ‘under the radar’ during our visit. We didn’t enter through the corridor to the building. Rather, once a bride and groom, who had just tied the knot, came down a set of stairs overlooking the piazza, we used the same staircase to go up … being careful not to slip on the rice the wedding party had thrown at the pair.

    The staircase led us to the entrance to the historic halls. The first room was the Camerino dei Confirmati (Chamber of the Confirmed) … once a small loggia that overlooked the palace of the Marquis d’Este.

    Branching off to the right from here was the Sala del Fuoco (Hall of the Fire), thought to have been named for the large fireplace where embers were kept hot for the peddlers in the square. Frescoes rimming the walls tell the story of the Siege of Modena (63-42 BC).

    Crossing back to the Chamber of the Confirmed, we found ourselves walking through a series of rooms that branch off from the left. First was the Sala del Vecchio Consiglio (Hall of the Old Council) … where the municipal council met in the 17th century. The vault of the chamber features paintings celebrating patriotism and the virtues of good governance.

    This room led to the Sala Degli Arazzi (Hall of the Tapestries). Instead of woven tapestries, however, here we found painted imitations by Vannulli of invaluable tapestries that depict scenes from the Peace of Constance and celebrate the role Modena played in the Lombard League events.

    What is referred to as the Sala dei Matrimoni (Hall of Weddings) was the last room we explored. The room, which was formerly used as an archive, was more simply decorated with portraits and paintings on the walls that “… represent an ideal gallery of 19th century Modanese figures.”

    Spotting a courtyard and a grand wrought iron gate, we left the palazzo via a different staircase … too many posters on the gate to photograph it, but we were rewarded with a statue of Perseus to wrap up our visit.

    I would love to return to the Palazzo Comunale with my long lens to photograph some of the fresco details. When we do so, we’ll make sure to make a reservation!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    This chimney is what's left of the tobacco factory ... now an urban redevelopment project — Modena.
    The urban redevelopment of the Manifattura Tabacchi (Tobacco Factory) — Modena, Italy.Tower of the Duomo peeking out at the end of the street — Modena, Italy.The "Monument to Freedom" ... symbolizing the revolutionary movements of 1821 & 1831 — Modena, ItalyPalazzo Ducale, now housing the Italian Military Academy — Modena, Italy.Palazzo Ducale, now housing the Italian Military Academy — Modena, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio (founded 12th century; rebuilt 17th century) — Modena, Italy.Piazza Grande ... Duomo (L) and Palazzo Comunale — Modena, Italy.4Extravecchio balsamic is aged a minimum of 25 years; the other one, a minimum of 12 years ... €€€Fontana "Al Salein" ... so nicknamed by the locals due to its shape resembling a salt cellar.Art Nouveau style Mercato Storico Albinelli — Modena, Italy."Fruit Bearer" by the Modanese sculptor Graziosi @ Mercato Storico Albinelli — Modena, Italy.Not sure if these are made with marzipan, but they looked amazing @ Mercato Storico Albinelli.Mercato Storico Albinelli — Modena, Italy.Mercato Storico Albinelli — Modena, Italy.Mercato Storico Albinelli — Modena, Italy.The world's oldest Parmigiano-Reggiano wheel ... from 1976 ... Mercato Storico Albinelli — Modena.Glimpse of the Duomo on the way to lunch — Modena, Italy.A delicious lunch @ Emilia Bistrò in Modena, Italy.Mosaic mural at Modena Centrale ... the train station.

    Modena: A Day Trip from Bologna

    March 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    When we were in Bologna last fall, we went on two day trips — by train … to Ferrara and to Rimini. Today it was Modena’s turn.

    Like the previous two day trips, today’s outing was of an exploratory nature … just to see what the place has to offer before we return for a longer visit.

    Modena, roughly northwest of Bologna, is 31 minutes by train. Well, technically, it would take 20 minutes to get there if you take the Freccerossa … the fast train. We didn’t think, however, that it was worth paying €34 (one way) for the two of us just to shave 11 minutes off the ride. Instead, we bought TTPER regional train tickets for €9 each way for the two of us.

    Shortly before 11:00a, we detrained at Modena Centrale … a short walk from Modena’s Centro Storico. The sun was out; the temperature comfortable; the walk pleasant along streets lined with colorful buildings.

    Soon, we were in Piazza Roma, which is overlooked by Palazzo Ducale. The grand edifice, once the residence of the Estense Court and one of the most important royal palazzos of the 17th century, now houses the Italian Military Academy.

    From Piazza Roma, we walked along side streets … unsurprisingly, quiet even on a Saturday since the tourist season is not yet in full swing. Most of the people we encountered were families out to enjoy the day. A quick peek inside Chiesa di San Giorgio, and then we continued to Piazza Grande, the very heart of Centro Storico.

    Everything we read said that the Duomo (cathedral) should be our first stop. That was indeed our intention. However, thinking that there might be a better vantage point to photograph the Duomo from a terrace at the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall Municipal Palace), we decided a detour was in order.

    What we thought would be a quick stop at the Palazzo Comunale, turned into a visit of the rooms open to the public … and deserves its own footprint. As does our next stop, the Duomo. Thus, moving on.

    Mui really enjoys visiting markets, so our steps next took us to Mercato Storico Albinelli (Historic Albinelli Market). This covered market — with beautiful wrought ironwork on the façade overlooking Via Albinelli — was built in 1931. Constructed in the Liberty style, it houses the market that used to be held in Piazza Grande. A beautiful fountain in the center; several aisles of stalls filled with fresh and colorful produce, meats, cheeses, fish, and more … a great place to not just visit, but shop as well … though we didn’t do so today.

    It was getting on towards 1:30p when we left the market and headed to Emilia Bistrò on Piazza Roma for our lunch reservation. The place was packed when we arrived … glad we booked ahead ... especially since the kitchen was due to close at 2:30p. Despite its location on a popular square, the place oozed ‘local’ charm. In fact, we didn’t hear anything but Italian being spoken.

    Seated at a two-top, we enjoyed a delicious meal accompanied by a glass of wine. Opting to start with an antipasti, we ordered the fried zucchini flowers, served with a citrus mayo. I ordered just a primi piatti as I am wont to do … in this case, hand-made tortellini in a capon broth; Mui got the braised beef cheek with balsamic pearl onions and julienned artichokes + a side of grilled vegetables … zucchini and eggplant. We wrapped up with what the server described as a Modena chocolate cake served on a bed of mascarpone cream. Yummy!

    It was getting on towards 3:00p when we left Emilia Bistrò. The temperature, which we had noticed earlier had cooled down from this morning, was now downright chilly. We put on our puffy jackets and headed to the train station for the return trip to Bologna.

    Although we arrived with five minutes to spare before the 3:06p train was scheduled to depart, the app would not let us buy tickets for it. Knowing that tickets purchased on the app can be changed until the train departs, we quickly bought tickets for the next train leaving in ½-hour and immediately changed the time to the 3:06p train. Worked like a charm.

    An uneventful train ride to Bologna … a walk on quiet backstreets from Bologna Centrale to the apartment … time to put up our feet and rest.

    We really enjoyed our exploratory day trip to Modena and look forward to returning … maybe do a balsamic tasting tour … or visit the Ferrari Factory nearby … or check out the museums.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mui perusing the wine menu for a red from the Emilia-Romagna Region ... at I Conoscenti — Bologna.
    Cheers ... a red wine made with Sangiovese grapes ... at I Conoscenti — Bologna.A delicious late lunch ... at I Conoscenti — Bologna.

    I Conoscenti Cocktail e Cucina

    March 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We left Museo Civico Medievale at 2:30p. Time for a late lunch.

    With most kitchens at dining establishments that cater mostly to the locals either closed or about to close for siesta, our options were limited. As luck would have it, “I Conoscenti” (The Acquaintances) — just down the portico from the museum — closed at 3:00p, so we didn’t have to go far for our first lunch out in Bologna since arriving on the 25th.

    The place lives up to its name. We were greeted as though we were long time acquaintances. We enjoyed the ambiance of the place … small, intimate, friendly, and hospitable.

    Arriving at an odd hour pretty much guaranteed that the place would be fairly deserted. The only other table that was occupied had a foursome who were enjoying a lengthy chat … they were still there when we left an hour later.

    While the host spoke English, the daily menu was in Italian only … the list of dishes short and sweet Great; not a touristy place.

    We ordered two glasses of a red from the Emilia-Romagna Region … made with Sangiovese grapes, and took our time perusing the menu.

    We both opted for dishes from the primi piatti section of the menu — lasagna alla Bolognese for me … a premier specialty of Bologna, and often served on Sundays, it was creamy and delicious; tortellini in a cheese sauce made with Parmigiano aged for 24-month for Mui … also delicious. I don’t recall the name or the description of the dessert we ordered, but it came sort of deconstructed … a warm, flaky pastry and a side of chocolate gelato, which melted into a creamy sauce when we combined the two. Our sweet treat was gone in no time.

    We will definitely return to I Conoscenti.

    The upcoming week is choc-a-bloc with deliveries … some of which are ‘assembly-required’. No matter, soon enough we’ll be settled and enjoying what the city and the country has to offer.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The entrance to the MCM is along one of the city's UNESCO-listed porticos — Bologna, Italy.
    Courtyard of Palazzo Ghisilardi-Fava ... where the MCM is housed — Bologna, Italy.Decorative fresco around one of the windows at the MCM — Bologna, Italy.Unicorn Horn; Roman artifact (c. 1660-1670); carved from a narwhal tooth ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Stilts made from cork & covered w/white leather; Venetian artifact (c. 16th-17th century) — MCM.Angus Dei (Lamb of God); Northern Italy artifact (13th century) ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Sarcophagi dedicated to professors of Univ of Bologna; sculptures from Palazzo della Mercanzia — MCMSelfie with Pope Bonifacio VIII (14th century) ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Gémellion from Limoges; ceremonial basin for hand washing (c. 1250-1260) ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Tomb of Bolognese judge Matteo Gandoni (14th cent); detail of some of the students ... MCM — BolognaTomb of Pietro Canonici, lecturer of civil law ... originally in the Church of San Martino Maggiore.Murano goblet; from the Barovier workshop (prior to 1465); depicts the Adoration of the Magi ... MCMTondelli; 16th century German artifact representing the Triumph of Death (from a Dürer engraving).Antique ivory platter; likely from the 19th century ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Velvet arrow quiver; made in Anatolia in the 17th century ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Decorated rifles from the 17th century ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Parade saddle; wood covered with leather and ivory (c.1440); Southern German craftsmanship ... MCM.Model of Bologna at the end of the 13th century ... a time of great development ... MCM — Bologna.Coat of Arms of the Grassi Family; Bologna (c. 1520); silver filigree, rock crystal, peach/plum pits"St Michael the Archangel Vanquishing the Demon;" by Bolognese sculptor A. Algardi ... MCM.Psalter from the Illuminated Manuscripts collection ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Muslim headstone (c. 1674/75) ... MCM — Bologna, Italy.Young man sitting in monastic habit ... drawing by B. Cesi (1590) ... Cesi Exhibition @ the MCM."Madonna & Child in Glory with Saints Benedict, John the Baptist, and Francis" (c. 1590) ... B. CesiPhotographic reworking of the main chapel of San Girolamo della Certosa ... altarpieces by B. Cesi.

    Museo Civico Medievale

    March 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Amazon delivered today’s packages just before noon. That meant that we could go out and do something fun this afternoon.

    Earlier this week, Mui stopped by the Welcome Bologna office on Piazza Maggiore to buy a Card Cultura for each of us. We learned about these cards when we were here last fall. €25 each for a card that is good for 12 months. It gives us free, unlimited admissions to several museums in the city and the metropolitan area. As well, there are a number of places where we get reduced admission to attractions and exhibits, cinemas and theaters, festivals and music seasons, and guided tours.

    We got to use our cards for the first time today, saving €4 (65+ admission) to check out the Bologna’s Medieval Museum [MCM]. We each have €21 left now to break even. No worries; we’ll be ahead of the game soon enough.

    Arriving at the museum, we stopped by the ticket office to show our cards and receive our free admission tickets. We then proceeded inside. As we moved through different parts of the museum, we were asked to show the ticket. I imagine they do this because anyone who enters the courtyard could sneak into parts of the museum easily enough.

    The MCM is housed in what was once the Palazzo Ghisilardi, one of the most important buildings from the period between 1446-1506 … when the Bentivoglio family pretty much ruled Bologna as de facto lords and tyrants. The palazzo was later acquired by the Fava family … hence it is known also as the Palazzo Ghisilardi-Fava.

    Exhibited at the museum are several private collections. The most important of these give visitors a sense of life in medieval Bologna. The eclectic collections are displayed in 24 rooms, artifacts ranging from sepulchral monuments to bronze sculptures, from illuminated texts to weaponry, from glassware to ivory marquetry boxes, from reliquaries to ceramics, and much more.

    While the labels identifying the items are in Italian, in every room we found laminated info cards in English … identifying some of the highlights. For this first visit, we focused on those items. There’s still much to see, so I am sure we will return another day to browse more slowly.

    While I was wrapping up at the museum, Mui went off to grab a coffee from a nearby café. While he was gone, I continued on to the first monographic Bartolomeo Cesi exhibition … “Paintings of Silence in the Age of the Carracci.” Part of the Jubilee 2025 program, the exhibit focuses on “… his unique, meditative approach to religious art, standing in contrast to the naturalism of the Carracci Brothers.”

    The brochure describes Cesi as being well known in Academic circles … not so much amongst the general population. Certainly, had we not visited the Farnese Chapel at Palazzo d’Accursio last fall and gone into the antechamber, we would not have been familiar with his name either.

    This particular exhibit is rather small … just 30 pieces … from monumental altarpieces to paintings, portraits, and drawings. They date to the period between the 16th and 17th centuries. I was a little disappointed that there were no frescos, but it was interesting to see Cesi’s paintings and understand why efforts are underway to restore his role in Bologna’s artistic history.

    Time for lunch …    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Spring has sprung ... blooms at the Casalecchio Palasport train platform.
    Spring has sprung ... blooms at the Casalecchio Palasport train platform.Mui shopping at IKEA ... for the second time since our return to Bologna 10 days ago.The boiler repaired and serving as a canvas for the privacy panel light dispersions.Amazon delivery vehicle ... not quite the Amazon Prime vans we're used to 😄Waiting for the 2nd Amazon delivery of the day, Mui entertains himself with a watercolor painting."The House of Lost Love" ... spied on a wall in the Quadrilatero — Bologna, Italy.One of the UNESCO-listed porticos of Bologna.Mui assembling the floor lamp we ordered ... good practice for our upcoming IKEA delivery — Bologna.

    A Week and Three Days

    March 7 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    That is how long it’s been since we stepped off the plane at BLQ.

    We’re continuing to work diligently on getting settled … going out for a coffee or gelato run once in a while to get a breather from work. We expect that once the IKEA big-box delivery arrives next week, we’ll be pretty much done.

    In the meantime, the smaller orders began trickling in this week. We were especially happy with how quickly the Media World purchases arrived as included in that delivery was a vacuum cleaner and an iron … essential appliances for completing some of our household chores.

    Amazon worked like a charm, too. We’re keeping all but two items … which we will be sending back using one of the several return options provided.

    As for chores. There were a-plenty.

    The floor lamp we ordered through Amazon required assembly. Easy enough to do … and described by Mui as a “practice run” for all the assembly work we will be doing when the IKEA big-box order is delivered on Tuesday.

    We installed electrostatic privacy panels on the lower half of the kitchen windows, and put up some curtains to close off the laundry area. With nearly 10-foot ceilings, we needed a tall ladder for the latter project. Luckily, the building has one that is available for tenants to borrow … one less thing to buy.

    A return trip to the shops in Casalecchio di Reno was required to wrap up our shopping spree. We took the opportunity to have a tasty lunch at Dispensa Emilia, one of the eateries at the mall that had long queues for dinner when we were at the Gran Reno Mall last week.

    Some of the repairs on our punch list have also been completed — the cracked expansion vessel for the combo boiler has been replaced … amid a lot of cussing in Italian as the guy was working in a very tight space; the two rolling shutters that were stuck are now operational. Once the painters come and go on Monday, the punch list will be completed.

    We have another Amazon delivery scheduled for tomorrow. If it comes early enough, we might be able to go out and do some sightseeing … 🤞🏻. That will give us something fun to report for a change.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The Permesso di Soggiorno applications are submitted — Bologna, Italy.
    2On our way to Bologna Centrale ... the shopping cart is empty — Bologna, Italy.An antique door knocker that I spied on the way to the train station — Bologna, Italy.We spot an exhibit to fit into our busy schedule before it ends on 6 April — Bologna, Italy.Coffee break on the way to Bologna Centrale ... have to fuel up for our shopping spree — Bologna.Porta Galliera is one of the old gates into Bologna ... it is known as the Gate of the Fortress.The shopping cart that came empty is leaving full — Casalecchio, Italy.Inspirational words along Via Indipendenza — Bologna, Italy.Some of our purchases ... setting up a household isn't for the faint of heart — Bologna, Italy.

    PdiS & A 20,061-Step Shopping Spree

    March 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    (PdiS = Permesso di Soggiorno)

    Busy day with lots of steps.

    First up — a most important errand that we are required to complete within 8 days of arriving Italy … applying for the “Permesso di Soggiorno” (residence permit) … not to be confused with registering our residence, which is a whole different thing we have to do after we receive our PdiS.

    We submitted our packages this morning at the designated post office — Piazza Minghetti … a short walk from the apartment. The postal clerk reviewed our forms, collected the additional paperwork and the fee, and sealed everything inside the government-provided envelope, which will go to Rome before being re-directed to Bologna for action.

    The clerk also gave us our appointments for the in-person-interviews with the Questura (the provincial headquarters of the state police). Alas, we have to wait until mid-June for that step … earlier appointment slots already taken.

    That done, we used the Trenitalia app to buy tickets for the train to Casalecchio di Reno … €1.50 pp each way. We had a bit of time to kill, so on our way to Bologna Centrale we stopped at L’Incontro for a coffee break.

    The train ride to Casalecchio’s Palasport stop is about 15 minutes long. From the siding platform where passengers detrain, it is a 5 minute walk to the Gran Reno Mall; IKEA and Leroy Merlin (the local Home Depot, if you will) are about the same distance as well.

    Our shopping trip was a success. Having done our research in advance, each stop we made was primarily to “touch and feel” and make sure our selections were satisfactory.

    At Media World, we placed the appliance order on the app … delivery scheduled for tomorrow.

    At IKEA, we confirmed that the items we had taken photos of last fall were still available, and that they still suited our needs. We added a few items; removed a few items; filled our shopping cart with the smaller items; placed an order for the big-box items … delivery scheduled for 10 March.

    At Leroy Merlin, we were in and out rather quickly. Both because we were shopped-out, but also because for this shopping spree, we had just a few items to hand-carry from there. I did feel like a drum majorette carrying the curtain rod all the way home. Yes, I resisted twirling it and throwing it in the air like a baton!

    We had just enough time before the 8:38p train back to Bologna to stop by the food court at the mall and pick up a piadina to share … a sandwich made with a thin flatbread that is from the Romagna region.

    The train was 5 minutes late … so be it. By the way, if you buy your train tickets on the app, you don’t have to search for a validation machine on the platform… the tickets are validated automatically as soon as the train departs the station.

    By 9:15p, having walked well-lit, nearly-deserted streets from Bologna Centrale to the apartment, we were more than ready to put up our feet.

    With our Media World delivery scheduled for tomorrow, we’ll be home and not gallivanting about. Our feet will appreciate that.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Working on Modulo I of the residence permit application — Bologna, Italy.

    Permesso di Soggiorno Modulo I

    March 1 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    With the help of an online cheat sheet in English, and Apple’s translate app, we managed to muddle through the first module of the ‘“permesso di soggiorno” (residency permit) application.

    Whether we need to complete the second module remains to be seen. We don’t think so, but best to find out for sure before we submit the application package. The agent at the post office should be able to answer the question when we stop by to drop off the paperwork.

    To celebrate the completion of our task, we went to our favorite gelateria in Bologna for a sweet treat.    Read more

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