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Italy: Ciao Bella

Life as expats in Italy … from our base in Bologna … including our ‘recon’ trip in October-November 2025. Read more

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🇮🇹 Bologna, Italy
Italy: Ciao Bella
Update: Permesso di Soggiorno
5 hours ago in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F
The long-awaited FIRST appointment for our Permesso di Soggiorno (residency permit) is now behind us.

Yes, you read that right … the FIRST appointment. We weren’t expecting that we would be returning for a second appointment, so that came as a surprise.

Anyway, we arrived at the Questura office 45 minutes early and were seen almost immediately by one of the clerks.

Passport verified … ✅

Photos taken within the last six months handed over; two each … ✅

Prints of the second finger on each hand scanned to match up with the ones from the visa application; I guess they wanted to make sure we were who we said we were … ✅

Appointment for full fingerprinting by the Polizia Scientifica scheduled for 21 July 2026 (the unexpected second appointment) … ✅

The ‘receipt’ allowing us to remain in Italy officially stamped and extended to 7 June 2027 … ✅

At first the clerk said that we needed to provide some additional paperwork — proof of health insurance and income amongst them … documents that we had already submitted with our visa application.

Bureaucracy being what it is, we were prepared. Mui had multiple copies of everything and gave her what was requested. In the midst of collecting the documents, the clerk excused herself to talk to her boss. She came back to tell us that we didn’t need to provide any other paperwork and to just show up for our second appointment to be fingerprinted.

So, the saga continues.

By the way, before we left, we asked how long it would take to get our permits once the fingerprinting is completed. “EIGHT MONTHS is the average,” was the answer!!!! At least we are legal in the meantime!

We celebrated the completion of this step with lunch at Trattoria Montanara!Read more
TravelerThen you will return to the us in 2027?
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Two to TravelNo idea yet. For now, we’re trying to figure out how to get through the summer heat!
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TravelerOh goodness. I guess its bad everywhere. Portland was 100 yesterday afternoon
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TravelerBon courage! 😉
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Italy: Ciao Bella
No Longer Missing in Action
June 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F
Actually, as I noted in yesterday’s footprint, we knew where the bag that didn’t make it onto the IST-BLQ flight was. It was just taking its own sweet time joining us in Bologna.

In fact, the bag arrived at BLQ on the late afternoon flight yesterday (remember, if not for the flight delay, we would have arrived in Bologna at 12:55p instead of 3:05p). I got an email from Turkish Airlines at 6:20p that the bag was now at BLQ.

We had made arrangements at the Lost & Found Office to have them deliver the bag to us at the apartment … at the airline’s expense. Sure enough … it arrived at our door this afternoon.

Mui has already unpacked the bag, so I guess I have no excuse not to do laundry tomorrow!Read more
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IST-BLQ: Welcome to Bologna
June 13 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F
Another 30 minute-delay was added to the original 40 minutes … thus putting our new departure time at 1:30p Türkiye time … with boarding starting just before 1:00p. TK1323 pushed back at 1:28p … and then it took another 25 minutes before we were rolling down the runway.

Our flight — 2 hours and 10 minutes once we were wheels up — was uneventful. The lunch service was efficient; the food good. Mui had time for a nap; I had time to write.

We landed at BLQ on time … well, the re-scheduled on time of 3:05p. Deplaning was easy. We simply walked down the mobile staircase that was brought to the front door of the aircraft and walked over to the arrivals terminal.

We went through EU’s EES (Entry/Exit System) last October when it was first rolled out. So, no delays for us entering Italy. That was a relief after all the horror stories we’ve been reading. We were through in about 5 minutes.

Then came the waiting at baggage claim … and the second hitch of our travel day. One checked bag arrived; the other one was missing in action. Well, actually it wasn’t missing. When I opened the Turkish Airlines app, there was a text to say that the bag had not been loaded onto the aircraft due to operational reasons. What those reasons are, we don’t know. Regardless, the bag is scheduled for the next flight to BLQ and will be delivered to the apartment within the next few days.

Paperwork filed at the claim office, we headed out to the taxi stand. No line whatsoever; plenty of vehicles. With traffic flowing, the ride into the city was accomplished in no time at all.

Shortly after 4:00p, we were unlocking the door to the apartment.

Time to sit back and relax. Chores can wait until tomorrow.Read more
TravelerWelcome home again
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Two to TravelThank you … good to be back.
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Italy: Ciao Bella
@ IST: 40-Minute Delay
June 13 in Turkey ⋅ 🌧 64 °F
Welcome to IST!!

TK2311 ended up landing at 9:48a. It took the aircraft 20 minutes to then get to its parking location. Still ahead of schedule by 10 minutes or so. No jetway for us today … likely because the plane’s next departure is an international one and it parked near that terminal.

We deplaned onto the tarmac to be bused to the domestic terminal. Spitting rain and quite chilly. No complaints. After the unseasonably hot temps of the past two weeks, the crisp morning air in both İzmir and İstanbul this morning felt good.

We made our way to immigration to go through passport control. There is a designated security checkpoint for families and those who are 65+. So, we decided to try it this time. Big mistake … though it wouldn’t have been if more than one of the five or six x-ray machines had been operating.

Anyway, once over that hurdle, we confirmed our gate assignment for the BLQ flight and started walking … and walking … and walking. IST sure is a big airport. Luckily there are moving sidewalks on the B concourse since our gate was at the very end.

No sooner were we seated to wait for boarding that my phone buzzed to announce a 40-minute delay of our flight … for “force majeure reasons.” Just days after we arrived in İzmir in May, an air transport strike was announced in Italy for today. I imagine that is the reason behind this hitch in our travel day.

So much for planning our trip around the strikes that were already on the books!Read more
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ADB-IST: Leg 1 to BLQ
June 13 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
Our quick visit to İzmir is now in the rearview mirror. Aboard TK2311, we are winging our way to İstanbul to connect to our flight to Bologna.

We had an early start to our day.

Last night, as we sat watching TV, we were debating which IZBAN train to take to the airport for our scheduled 8:55a departure. 6:00a? 6:15a? 6:30a? Turns out that we were ready so far ahead of schedule this morning that we were actually on the 5:47a train. Thirty minutes later, we were detraining at the airport station. The rest of the formalities were easy peasy.

Although boarding was delayed by 20 minutes, the aircraft pushed back from the gate 4 minutes ahead of schedule at 8:51a. Quick taxi to and roll down the runway. In the air shortly after 9:00a.

Breakfast service — cheese and tomato sandwich — is completed. It is now 9:25a, and we are already on descent into IST. Our arrival is showing as 9:46a … about 35 minutes ahead of schedule. We’ll see how long it takes to taxi to the gate at busy IST.Read more
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İzmir: Kemeraltı & Konak
June 9 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F
With our time in İzmir dwindling fast, Mui and I ventured into Kemeraltı today.

Located in Konak, the most densely populated of Izmir’s 30 districts … and generally considered the city center — Kemeraltı is essentially an open-air bazaar.

One of the largest of its kind in the world, it has been serving as İzmir’s commercial center since the 17th century. Its streets — branching off in every direction — are lined with shops where one can find everything imaginable, from clothing and 24-karat gold jewelry, to household goods and food stuff. There are restaurants, cafés, coffee and tea houses. There are historic mosques and synagogues. And so much more. It is filled with ‘life’ … crowded and loud.

We had a bit of shopping to do, which we took care of in a hurry. And then off we went to Özev, our favorite place for döner … a massive stack of thinly layered meat that is slowly roasted on a vertical rotisserie spit. Its name comes from “dönmek” which translates as “to turn or rotate.” (Those outside of Türkiye, likely know döner as “gyro” … similar but different.)

The dish is served as a single portion or a portion and a half … the meat layered over chunks of pide (flatbread) and covered with a generous amount of tomato sauce. If one asks for yogurt on the side, then the döner is referred to as “İskender” … named after the 19th century chef/butcher by the same name who lived in Bursa and is credited with inventing the vertical spit. Of course, an essential ingredient of İskender is the melted and browned butter that is poured over the whole thing table-side … the sizzling sound and aroma of the butter wafting over the table to tickle one’s appetite.

Alsancak is part of the Konak District. It is a pleasant 20-30 minute walk … when the temperature allows. That wasn’t the case today. So, after our delicious lunch, we walked to the Konak tram stop for the short trip back to Alsancak. Along the way, we could not resist photo ops at the central square where two of the city’s iconic landmarks are located.

The Konak Camii is an 18th century mosque. Octagonal in shape, it is in the style of classical Ottoman architecture. It is decorated with 19th century turquoise tiles made in Kütahya. At one time, these tiles covered the entire exterior. Today, only the window surrounds are of tile.

The İzmir Saat Kulesi (İzmir Clock Tower) is an 82-foot (25-meter) tall historic monument located in the very heart of the square. Built in 1901 by the French architect Raymond Charles Péré, it was commissioned to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Ottoman Sultan Abdülhamid II's accession to the throne.

Both landmarks have survived the multitude of earthquakes to which İzmir is prone … with some repairs as necessary.Read more
Sonia Gelman Love yogurt drink!
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Two to TravelThis one had the perfect texture.
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Traveler Molto bello !
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İzmir: Lucien Arkas Sanat Merkezi
June 7 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F
“I have life within me, and color in the world.”
~ Robert Delaunay ~

After spending a bit of time with mom this morning, we decided to head to the only Arkas art facility we’ve not been to yet … the Lucien Arkas Art Center … described as “… the seventh stop on the Arkas Art Route extending across İzmir, … conceived as a space in close dialogue with the city, hosting international exhibitions and collections as well as learning programs, screenings, conferences, cultural events, and gatherings.”

Opened in April 2026, the center is a collaboration with the Centre Pompidou in Paris. Over the next five years, it is intended that Centre Pompidou will present two exhibitions from its collections at the LASM.

The current installation, billed is “Sonia & Robert Delaunay: Inventing Modern Colour.” Known for their innovative approaches to color and light, the Delaunays are among the names that have created a transformative impact on the history of modern art.

What we didn’t realize is that the exhibition is sort of introductory in nature … with only two Delaunay paintings from the Pompidou Centre on exhibit at the moment. Apparently the inaugural season is scheduled for September of this year.

We were a bit disappointed when we first learned this on arrival at the center … especially since one of the two paintings, and several of the posterized-images of/by the Delaunays, bore the “no photos” warning. That said, there were interesting stories to read about the couple. There were also quotes about color and painting that were thought provoking … which is always a good thing.Read more
Traveler Mi piace
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Traveler Ça me plaît !
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Traveler Molto bello!!
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Two to TravelLots of modern, interesting buildings going up in old neighborhoods.
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İzmir: Around Kültürpark
June 6 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F
Although it was much warmer than yesterday, the temp today was forecast to be cooler than the 90F+ temps expected starting tomorrow. In other words, a good time to take mom out for some fresh air.

For a change of pace, we were going to go to Kordon — the Alsancak waterfront. But my nephew, Hakan, was in the neighborhood and suggested that he might be able to get away for a bit to join us if we went to the fuar (fair) … which is the name by which most locals refer to Kültürpark, the green space in the center of the city. So, we jiggled our loose plans and headed in that direction.

On this outing, we asked Klara, mom’s caregiver, to join us … to make sure she knew how to operate the ins and outs of mom’s new wheelchair … much lighter and smaller.

We lucked out with a table in the shade at İzmir Sanat, a café at the fairgrounds. And yes, Hakan was able to join us briefly.

Kültürpark is home to the annual İzmir International Fair, which is held … well, I’m not sure exactly when the abbreviated fair is held these days, but it was a month-long late-summer event when I was a kid growing up in İzmir. At that time, each participating country had its own pavilion to promote itself and its products. In recent years, several of the buildings have been re-purposed. Two of them host temporary exhibitions. So, after lunch, we decided to check out the current installations.

First up … the Atlas Pavilion … “Between Two Lines: A Look at the İzmir of the Future from Today.” In addition to displaying a collection of historical photos, the exhibition “… invites the citizens to dream of a common future …” through workshops, discussions, and more. It was most interesting to see archival photos of the city … many of which ‘pre-dated us’ by a century or two 😄.

Our visit today was necessarily quick, so if I have time before we leave, I would like to go back for a more in-depth look.

On our way to the Lozan Gate of the fairgrounds, we stopped to check out a second installation … at what is still referred to as the Pakistan Pavilion. Featured at this group exhibition, entitled “Tesir” (Impression), was art created using the “ebru” (marbling) technique. It was different in many ways from the “ebru” exhibition we went to earlier this week as many of the pieces were collages. We all enjoyed the colorful art, but with no A/C inside the pavilion, it was a bit uncomfortable in the mid-day heat.

Thus we wrapped up two weeks of our three-week trip to İzmir. How time flies when you are having fun!Read more
Traveler I love jacarandas as long as they aren’t on my property…
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Two to TravelThe one at the café was raining blooms on us.
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İzmir: Yes, Boss!
June 5 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F
Time for Mui (the Gardener) to prune the plants on the terrace … following instructions from mom (the Boss)! 😀
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İzmir: TSF … Through Time
June 3 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
We were about to leave the Archaeology Museum when Mui noticed another temporary art exhibition in one of the rooms.

“Zamanın İçinden” (Through Time) … a group exhibition featuring a number of different painters and sculptors. Studying the works on display, I could not find the thematic thread that connects them with the title of the exhibition. Nor did a search on the internet later provide any information that might have shed light on what we saw.

Nonetheless, we enjoyed seeing the colorful artwork … thus wrapping up today’s outing.Read more
Traveler Bello
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Two to TravelOne of my favorites.
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Traveler Bello !
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İzmir: TSF … Archaeology Museum
June 3 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
Officially, there are two museums at the Tekel Sanat Fabrikası (Tekel Arts Factory) — the Painting & Sculpture Museum and the Archaeology & Ethnography Museum. I actually consider the latter two separate museums since the collections are distinctly different.

After checking out the marbling art exhibit, we wandered through the Archaeology Museum, which is on the ground and first floors of the main building. We’ll go back to re-visit the Ethnography Museum — on the top floor of the main building — another time.

Our museum visit took us on a trip into antiquity as we browsed artifacts ranging from marble and bronze statues, to terracotta figurines and pottery, to decorative glass perfume bottles and gold jewelry, to medical instruments and symbols of death … the latter in the form of sarcophagi and pithos graves. And so much more.

Whenever I re-visit a place — be it a museum or a town or a gallery — I like to compare the recent photos with the ones I took previously. Why? To see if I was drawn to the same artifacts/places/works of art again … or if something different caught my eye. I’ll have to wait to do my comparison of today’s photos as the ones from 2023 may well be on a hard drive at our house in Colorado. That said, I suspect there will be several duplicates!Read more
Traveler Superbe!
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Traveler Magnifique!
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Traveler Bella foto !
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İzmir: TSF … What Water Expresses
June 3 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F
TSF = Tekel Sanat Fabrikası (Tekel Arts Factory); formally … İzmir Kültür Sanat Fabrikası (İzmir Culture & Arts Factory)

This was our destination today.

The Tekel facility in Alsancak was once a cigarette factory that dated back to the late 19th century. In 2004, it ceased operation and the now-defunct buildings were re-purposed as a cultural and artistic center. Today, the various renovated buildings house several museums, libraries, event spaces, and cultural and social areas where one can attend seminars, workshops, and ateliers.

Having explored the museums soon after TSF opened in 2023, our purpose for visiting today was to check out a temporary art exhibition. Yes … another one! What can I say? As hot as it’s been, we’re seeking out places that not only offer visual enjoyments, but air conditioning as well.

I was expecting that the exhibition would be in one of the event spaces as they have been in the past. Turns out that it was installed in one of the halls of the İzmir Archaeology and Ethnography Museum.

Temporary exhibitions in the event spaces have traditionally been free. The museum, on the other hand, charges admission. No worries in our case. Age has its privileges … no admission for Turkish citizens who are 65+. We showed our IDs at the ticket booth and received two free tickets to go inside.

The exhibition we were interested in featured pieces created by Mine Tülek using the “ebru” technique … the Turkish art of paper marbling. AI describes the process as involving “… sprinkling and brushing color pigments onto a pan of thickened, oily water to create swirling patterns, which are then carefully transferred onto a sheet of paper.”

The installation was small but worth taking the time to visit. I’ve tried my hand at this technique at “living museums” where cultural stories and methods are kept alive with demonstrations. It’s not as easy as one might think, so I appreciated what was on display … especially the more complex pieces. There were also short poems accompanying several of the pieces and QR codes that one could scan to listen to different pieces of music that fit the theme of the art.

Since we were there anyway, after we perused the “ebru art,” we decided to go for a wander around the museum … coming up in the next footprint.Read more
Traveler Complimenti!
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Two to TravelGrazie Mille
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Traveler Mi piace!
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Two to TravelMy husband is going to re-interpret and paint that one when we get home. It was his favorite from the exhibit.
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İzmir: Arkas … Fashion & Painting
June 2 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F
Arkas is the name of a Levantine family … deeply rooted in İzmir. They migrated here from France some 300-400 years ago, engaging in trade for over three centuries. In addition to being a prominent name in commercial endeavors, they have established several art museums in İzmir to share their expansive collection of art in every form.

Arkas Sanat Alsancak — sanat being the Turkish word for art — is the closest of these museums to us. It is housed in a neoclassical mansion on Kordon (the Alsancak waterfront). Built in 1906, the building served as the French diplomatic mission until 2009, when it was transferred to Arkas Holding for restoration and renovation.

Between visits with mom, Mui and I went to the museum today to check out the current exhibit. The older building is not wheelchair friendly, so we were unable to take mom with us. I sat with her later and showed her the photographs I took … a second-hand exhibition, if you will.

There is a nominal admission for the museum ₺250 ($5.45 at today’s exchange rate) … half that for 65+. But today being Tuesday, it was “people’s day” … meaning that the fee was waived. Score!

The “Fashion and Painting” exhibition combines selected works from the Arkas collection with pieces from the costume collection of La Dame d'Atours. It brings together 19th-20th century Postimpressionist and Modernist paintings with the haute couture fashions of the same period … mostly women’s attire, though there were some men’s costumes as well.

The exhibition serves to underscore “… the social life, clothing culture and aesthetic understanding of the period through the relationship between painting and costume.”

Over the years, we have visited most, if not all, of the temporary exhibitions installed at Arkas Sanat Alsancak. None disappointed. Today was no exception.Read more
Traveler Mi piace !
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TravelerA very nice exhibition!!!
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Two to TravelThey always have an interesting theme for exhibitions at this museum.
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İzmir: 3rd Time’s the Charm
June 1 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F
Bidding Aylin & Murat “see you later” as they set off on their trip, Mui & I headed out with mom for some fresh air and lunch.

Once everyone’s tummy was sated, we followed a roundabout way back, stopping by the Mehmet Tüzüm Kızılcan Art Gallery (former History and Art Museum) at Kültürpark to see if it was open now that the bayram (Eid al-Adha) is over.

After our previous two unsuccessful attempts to check out Cem Sağbil’s “The World Still Blooms” exhibition, today our persistence paid off.

We were especially happy to find the doors open since the gallery is one to which we can take mom … wheelchair-friendly with plenty of space around the pieces on display and a ramp that provides easy access to the second floor.

The exhibition consisted mostly of sculptures … bronze the primary medium, with some pieces utilizing timber from olive trees. Some paintings as well. The sculptor’s work is described as carrying “… traces of a long reflection on human existence in the world. …”

A panel at the entrance to the gallery explained that the exhibition’s title is born of this reflection — “… For an artist who has been sculpting for four decades, the world is not merely a place of crisis and destruction. It is also a place where meaning can still be produced, where thought can still take form, and where the world can still be imagined anew. … And for this reason, the world still blooms.”Read more
Traveler Mi piace !
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Traveler Anche questa mi piace 🙂
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TravelerBella mostra !
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Two to TravelMolto bella. Oggi siamo andati a una mostra molto diversa … foto in arrivo.
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İzmir: Socializing
May 30 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
We joined Aylin and Murat for breakfast this morning … at Francala … in Bostanlı, across the bay from where we are in Alsancak.

The place is a new addition to the numerous eateries around İzmir that specialize in breakfast. This one is a bread bakery as well. The bread basket brought to your table includes a number of different breads, so you get to sample what is on offer that day and purchase a loaf or two if you wish.

The breakfast menu is quite extensive. Mui opted for the hot plate … scrambled eggs and sautéed oyster mushrooms & potatoes. Murat opted for the cold plate … sliced avocado, a spicy tomato-paste dip, olives, and cheese. Aylin and I opted for the pancakes made with Francala’s special batter … more like hotcakes. Turkish tea all around.

After our delicious meal, instead of riding back with Aylin and Murat, we asked them to drop us off at the Bostanlı waterfront promenade and walked to the Karşıyaka ferry pier … a 30-45 minute stroll on a beautiful, blue-sky day with a light breeze that kept the heat at bay.

A pleasant ferry crossing and a quick tram ride returned us to Alsancak. Mui went to the apartment for a nap; I went to mom’s to spend a couple of hours with her.

Then it was time for more socializing … this time with Mui’s cousin, Esin. We had a short but sweet reunion at the Lozan Patisserie, catching up on family news. She’s leaving for Seattle on Monday, so we’re especially glad we were able to squeeze in a quick visit.

By the way, we walked over to see if the art gallery was open today. Nope, still closed. It will be interesting to see if they extend the date of the temporary exhibition since the sculptor has essentially been shorted by at least four days.Read more
Traveler Très joli!
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Traveler J'adore !
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Two to TravelWas sculpted for the 2016 marble fair in İzmir.
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İzmir: Moyra … A Longtime Friend
May 29 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
Family commitments have kept Mui and me busy since our arrival in İzmir late on the 25th. We’re slowly settling into a routine and starting to carve out time to spend with friends as well as family.

Moyra and I are friends from junior high … at the American Collegiate Institute in İzmir. She moved to the USA before we did, and now lives in Nashville, Tennessee … when she isn’t traveling.

In recent years, our trips to Türkiye have coincided on the calendar and we’ve met up for lunch at a favorite restaurant in İzmir. Laughter, reminiscing, chit-chat … these are all hallmarks of our get togethers.

This time we met up at the entrance to Kültürpark, crossed the street to the Lozan Patisserie, and enjoyed Turkish tea and goodies … with a side order of the ‘hallmarks’ I mentioned above. We were having such a good time that we didn’t remember to take any photos until there was nothing but crumbs left on the table.

Tummies sated, we decided to check out a temporary art exhibit at the former History and Art Museum in Kültürpark … the large green space in the city center that is home to the annual İzmir International Fair.

Alas, today is the third-day of Eid al-Adha, an Islamic holiday celebrated around the world. The building was locked up tight. The exhibit is scheduled to close tomorrow, but I am hoping that it might be extended. It’s not far from the apartment, so we’ll meander over sometime over the next few days.

Anyway, we found some nice backdrops for this year’s ’new memories’ photos and selfies … and clicked the shutter to also take photos of the two pieces of art in front of the museum.

Then, seeing Moyra off at the tram station, we returned to the apartment. Mui is now busy cooking up a storm … we’re going to cater dinner at mom’s tonight.

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By the way, for those not familiar with Eid-al-Adha, it is commonly referred to as the “Festival of Sacrifice” … Kurban Bayramı in Turkish. It is considered to be one of the two most important holidays in the Islamic calendar… honoring Prophet Abraham's (İbrahim’s) devotion to God and his willingness to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience. As we all know, just as Abraham was about to carry out the command, God intervened and provided a ram to be sacrificed instead.Read more
TravelerThis holiday makes me think a little bit og Christian Easter, or not?
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Two to TravelNot really … I’m not sure if there is an equivalent holiday in Christianity even though the story of Abraham is in the Bible as well.
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Traveler Mi piace!!
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Welcome to Alsancak, İzmir … Türkiye
May 26 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F
Two uneventful flights.

Two meal services … a hot meal on the 2½-hour BLQ-IST flight ; a cheese sandwich on the 45-minute IST-ADB flight.

Two landings … slightly delayed at IST; 25 minutes ahead of schedule at ADB.

One immigration control/passport check … at IST.

One baggage claim and customs checkpoint … at ADB.

One 30-minute train ride on IZBAN — İzmir’s commuter rail system … from the airport station in Gaziemir to the train station in Alsancak … free for us 65+ passengers (got to have a Turkish ID).

One 10-minute taxi ride from the train station to Mui’s sister’s apartment … our base of operations while in İzmir.

Unpacking and settling in can wait until tomorrow!

Oh wait … it’s already tomorrow … midnight struck a few minutes ago!

Oh well, the work can wait until after we have breakfast with Aylin and Murat, and drop in for a quick visit with mom.

But first … we need to get some shuteye!Read more
TravelerMuch quicker trip than from the states. Most of which must be quite familiar to you. I hope your time in Izmir is a happy time for family
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Two to Travelnow that the apartment is clean and we’re settled the fun times will begin.
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TravelerBayramınız mübarek olsun. İyi bayramlar …
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Two to TravelSizin de bayramınız mübarek olsun.
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Traveler🙏
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Italy: Ciao Bella
Aboard TK 1324 to IST
May 25 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F
The Airbus A321-200 that was scheduled to take us on the first of today’s two flights landed at BLQ at 2:10p.

Since the aircraft was not connected to a jetway, there would be no by-row boarding today. No sooner than the aircraft was on the ground, passengers queued up for boarding … still at least ½-hour away. Go figure. Anyway, we waited until the line dwindled down and eventually made our way down to the tarmac and across to the aircraft. With seats in row 20, we walked to the mobile stairs at the rear for an easy embarkation.

Our aisle-aisle seats split up a family of four on either side of us. Since the aircraft had empty seats, the flight attendant moved the mother and two daughters to another row … which allowed me to hop into the window seat in Mui’s row … leaving the middle seat empty for a bit of extra elbow room. The legroom … well it is what it is in the economy cabin … OK for our short flight.

The aircraft pushed back at 3:04p and was wheels up 20 minutes later. We were flying in blue skies and sunshine soon enough.

Bonus for switching my seat … a distant but clear view of the Due Torri, the Cathedral, the Basilica of San Petronio, and other landmarks of Bologna’s Centro Storico.

Ciao per ora Bologna!Read more
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Italy: Ciao Bella
Delay?
May 25 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F
Not sure if there is a delay or not!

TripIt sent me an email advising of a 15-minute delay to our departure. The THY app still shows our flight leaving at 2:55p. However, the incoming flight, which was due in at 1:55p, has not put in an appearance yet. We gave ourselves plenty of time for our connection from IST to ADB … so no worries at this time.

In the meantime, we arrived at the airport around 12:15p. Checked our bags and headed to security and immigration to complete the formalities. The automated immigration kiosks worked like a charm and we got the wave to continue into the secure area without having to see an agent in person.

With time to kill, we made ourselves comfortable at VyTA Bistrot and enjoyed a simple but tasty meal. Now, we are waiting at the gate for the inbound THY flight to land.Read more
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Italy: Ciao Bella
And We Are Off
May 25 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F
A 2:55p flight departure meant an easy morning at home.

Had a relaxed breakfast.

Washed the bed linens and towels … I’m sure they’ll dry by the time we return mid-June 🤣.

Mui took the recycling and trash to the bins at the head of our street … and even had time to walk over to Il Duca for his morning espresso.

Around 11:35a, ready ahead of our planned noon departure, we locked the door to officially begin our brief sojourn to Türkiye.Read more
TravelerBon voyage!!!
3wReply
Two to TravelGrazie Mille.
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TravelerHave an uneventful flight.
3wReply
Two to Travel🤞🏻
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Leaving On a Jet Plane
May 24 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 72 °F
Bags packed … ✅

Online check-in completed … ✅

Boarding passes added to our Apple Wallets … ✅

Perishables consumed … except for what we need to sustain us until we lock the door behind us … ✅

We are ready to take off tomorrow … for a couple of weeks.

Destination: İzmir, Türkiye … to oversee mom’s care while my sister and brother-in-law take a short sightseeing and beach break.

Watch this space for anything fun and newsworthy!Read more
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Italy: Ciao Bella
Dinner with Işıl
May 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
For those who don’t know, Işıl is Mui’s sister.

She flew into Bologna this afternoon … with three friends. They are here overnight … and then onward on a DIY week-long tour that will take in places like Sienna and Firenze.

Mui picked her up from her hotel around 5:00p and we got together for drinks at a bar before continuing onto dinner at San Pietro … a trattoria/pizzeria not too far from her hotel.

A brief but sweet reunion.Read more
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Italy: Ciao Bella
Pistoletto: Remise en Jeu
May 22 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
Earlier this week, we went to see the work of Michelangelo Pistoletto … the father. Today, we popped into Galleria Cavour 1959 to see the daughter’s work.

(Just see, mind you … the wearable art, I imagine, falls into the “if you have to ask, you can’t afford it” category since the pieces are sold privately through fine art galleries.)

"Remise en jeu," is the title of Cristina Pistoletto’s solo exhibition of pieces from her “Fuori Moda Crista” series. In this instance, what is also a sports term in French, roughly translates as putting back into play … or breathing new life into something old, if you will.

The genesis of the series dates back to 2014 … when Cristina transformed an old black coat by applying to its back a needlework piece depicting a sailing ship. Today, that collection has 100 first edition pieces, each numbered and registered as unique.

The vintage coats, jackets, dusters, and cardigans are from her own collection. The hand-made needlework pieces were created by grandmothers and aunts. What once hung on walls are now displayed on garments … roses, poppies, landscapes, seascapes, reproductions of the art of Raphael and Leonardo. She also used salvaged objects such as small dolls, decorative buttons, fairytale characters, doilies, and more.

A sign on the wall describes every piece as “… an archive that carries traces of time, work, and affection. … Father and daughter, two distinct paths that speak to each other and both question the relationship between art, memory, and the present.”

As someone who has done quite a bit of embroidery, I really appreciated the work at this exhibition. I was never a needlework person, however. That was mom’s forte. My thing was counted cross-stitch … from scratch, and smaller the squares the better … 18 or 22 squares to an inch being my preferred format. My work hangs on the walls of our home in Colorado … where I can see and enjoy them when we are there.

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A couple of links to blog posts I did for some of my cross-stitch projects:

English Garden: https://2totravelphaeton.blogspot.com/2012/09/s…

Seaside Lovers: https://2totravelphaeton.blogspot.com/2011/01/x…

Big Cats: https://2totravelphaeton.blogspot.com/2013/12/x…Read more
TravelerWell, I like your English Gardens a lot, really.
3wReply
Two to TravelThank you … it was a favorite pastime for me.
3wReply
TravelerI like Pistoletto's art too, but...it's not very easy to wear when you're choosing a salad at the supermarket! 😀😃🙃
3wReply
Two to Travel😂🤣
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Michelangelo @ Palazzo Boncompagni
May 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
Sorry … that’s not Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarrati Simoni … of the Sistine Chapel fame! Rather, it is Michelangelo Pistoletto … of the Love Difference fame.

After our morning outing … and a bit of a rest, this afternoon we went to Palazzo Boncompagni, which was the home of Pope Gregorio XIII … from his birth until he was installed on the papal throne in 1572. Today, owned by the Benelli family since the 19th century, the palace serves as a host for contemporary art exhibitions and cultural events, while at the same time the family continues to restore parts of the building.

The exhibition we saw at the palace today is a retrospective entitled “Michelangelo Pistoletto. From Cittadellarte to Statodellarte” … or From the City of Art to the State of Art.

The City of Art referenced here is a civic laboratory, if you will, founded by Pistoletto in his birthplace of Biella … in the Italian Alps. The idea behind his concept is to show how creativity connects with all sectors of society.

The tour is guided … which helps to explain the pieces that are a result of over 60 years of research into the relationship between art, society, and politics. The tours are in Italian only. So, we used the “live translation” feature of our AirPods Pro (Gen 3) … which worked out OK once we acclimated to the inherent delay. Since he speaks and understands Italian, Mui definitely got more out of the tour. I managed to get the gist of things and supplemented it with some additional research once we got home.

The highlight of the exhibition is “Tavolo Love Difference” (Love Difference Table). An interesting work of art that is temporarily installed in the equally interesting setting of the Sala del Papa (the Pope’s Audience Hall). It consists of an oversized mirrored table shaped like the Mediterranean. The chairs around it are from the countries that border the Med.

The piece serves as the symbol of the Love Difference movement … an “Artistic Movement for an InterMediterranean Policy, founded by Pistoletto in 2002 and presented at the Venice Biennale in 2003, when the artist received the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement.”

Our tour concluded with “Mirror of Eternity” … an interactive installation … explained as follows: “… bridges physical and virtual realities by inviting visitors to upload their own portraits, which are then fused by artificial intelligence with those of other participants. The result is a continuously evolving display of entirely new, virtual faces that echo the generative logic of nature. This digital artwork—designed in collaboration with DMINTI—serves as an exploration of digital immortality and collective memory, allowing an individual's legacy to persist and spawn new artistic life long after they are gone.”

We had fun participating in the installation … the result (with magnification of a small section that I created) is included in the photos attached to this footprint.

Pistoletto’s work has piqued our curiosity … so, if we find ourselves in the area, we just might visit the City of Art in Biella.

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Card Cultura Update: With today’s €3 discount, I am now €7 ahead of the game and Mui is €4 ahead. What that means is that for €25 each, I have visited €32 worth of sites; Mui €29 worth of sites.Read more
Traveler Bella foto !
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Two to TravelI like framing like this when I can.
3wReply
Traveler Nice, but not very comfortable to eat bolognese food ! 😀😃
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Two to Travel😆🤣
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Figures of Wolfango in Salaborsa
May 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
“Drawing is breathing, painting is living.”
~ Wolfango Peretti Poggi ~

We had not heard of Wolfango until we saw some of his illustrations at a temporary exhibit at the Archiginnasio last month … featuring works dedicated to Dante and others.

As it turns out, he was “… a celebrated international artist and painter who lived and worked in Bologna. His multifaceted work includes paintings, etchings, and drawings … as well as terracotta figures he made for his children.

The city is showcasing Wolfango in celebration of the centenary of his birth. The "Wolfango 100 - 100 Wolfango" is designed to highlight his work, and honor him through concerts, readings, documentary screenings, a photographic exhibit of the man himself … just to name a few of the events. Some of the events are already past … others are scheduled for later this year.

Today, as we were passing by Biblioteca Salaborsa, Bologna’s main multimedia public library inside the historic Palazzo d'Accursio, I remembered that some of his work is on display in the Piazza Coperta (covered square).

The info panel’s description of the “Figures of Wolfango in Salaborsa” temporary exhibition was a instructive as to what we would be seeing, so I am quoting it here rather than paraphrasing it …

“… you can admire five original drawings, large scenes crowded with characters from children's literature, which were later reproduced on the walls of the Puppet Room of the Salaborsa Ragazzi Library. The exhibition display cases also house sketches, preparatory drawings, and reference books. On the panels, in addition to the words of Antonio Faeti and Wolfango himself, there are spectacular enlargements that recall the Puppet Room and invite children and families to play a game of recognition. For the library, Wolfango has created a world of quotes that pay homage to children's literature and illustration, from Rodari to Calvino, from Luzzati to Disney, from Alice to the Little Prince... In each scene, he has amused himself with a self-quotation: Tom Thumb, Pinocchio, Sandokan... it's up to us to have fun recognizing them!”

And fun we had.

I was especially happy to see the reproduced panels as there was too much reflection on the glass display cases … making it not only difficult to see some of the details, but also to get any decent photos.

A short and sweet detour before it was time for our afternoon plans …Read more
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