Reset search
Italy: Ciao Bella
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
Current
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Italy: Ciao Bella

Life as expats in Italy … from our base in Bologna … including our ‘recon’ trip in October-November 2025. Read more
FollowInsightsInsightsCalendarCalendarPhotosPhotosShareShareBucket list
InsightsCalendarPhotos
  • 🇮🇹
    Currently in
    Messina
    Italy: Ciao Bella
    Our bunks ... 22 & 26 on carriage 6 — Aboard ICN 1963.
    Our bunks ... 22 & 26 on carriage 6 — Aboard ICN 1963.One of the two amenity kits we found in the cabin — Aboard ICN 1963.Morning newspaper on the railing in the corridor across from our cabin — Aboard ICN 1963.Breakfast included in the train fare for our sleeper booking — Aboard ICN 1963.Tyrrhenian Sea ... moving too fast to get scenery photos.Mui in his top bunk earlier this morning ... almost time for a nap.Blue dot ... where we are at present ... just a short distance left before we get to the ferry.

    Good Morning from ICN 1963

    3 hours ago in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Did we sleep? Yes, we did. Were we aware that we were speeding along the tracks on a train? Yes, we were.

    Nonetheless, we woke up surprisingly well rested.

    We are currently somewhere far south, heading toward the toe of ‘Italy’s Boot’. When not blocked by trees and tall bushes, the scenery on the cabin side alternates between seascapes and beaches … we are following the Tyrrhenian coast; seaside towns; olive and fruit groves, and pitch dark tunnels … a lot of them. Our ears alert us that we’re inside a tunnel even if we don’t otherwise notice it … air pressure as we move at speed through the narrow gateways carved into cliffs and mountains will do that. We have the cabin door open, so we can see the view on the corridor side as well.

    A bit about the TrenItalia-operated ICN (InterCity Notte [night]) train. It is a sleeper service offered by IC trains, which are generally ranked below the high-speed trains. They are slower, but less expensive. So they are quite popular. They are also the only mainland Italy trains that operate in Sicily. Hence, to do this train trip, we really had no other choices, unless we wanted to book a ticket with changes … which we did not. Originating in Milano, the service we are taking is the longest sleeper train journey in Italy.

    While there might be newer IC trains, the ICN on which we are traveling is not one of them. The carriage itself is showing the ravages of time and service. The same with the cabins. While we found the beds made up with ironed linens — pristine white — the cabin needs a lot of TLC … refurbishment would do wonders for it.

    It goes without saying that the cabin is ‘compact’. It can actually accommodate three passengers, but we booked it as a ‘doppio’ … so the top-most bunk is closed. After waking up this morning, we left Mui’s bunk as a bed, so that he can nap if he so wishes until it is time to detrain in Cefalù around 4:00p … assuming we are on schedule.

    When we boarded last night in Bologna, the car attendant scanned our tickets and confirmed our IDs against our passports. He then showed us how to lock the door, bid us buonanotte, and left us to get settled.

    On the counter, which hides a sink (otherwise shared facilities), we found bottles of sparkling and still water, and two packs of rice snacks. Also amenity kits … toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipe, soap bar, and eye mask. What was missing was a towel to dry our hands. I have a couple of washcloths in my bag that will do the trick, but didn’t dig one out last night … I’ll make sure one is handy for the return trip in a couple of weeks.

    The IC trains in general don’t have food service. There are some vending machines, but we have our snacks, so we won’t need to rely on them. On the ICN, those traveling in the sleeper cabins get breakfast … brought by the carriage attendant … nothing elaborate, but it did include good espresso, for which Mui was grateful.

    On that note, time to put the iPad away and prepare for the ferry ride. More later.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    ICN 1963 arriving from Milano Centrale to pick us up from Bologna Centrale.
    ICN 1963 arriving from Milano Centrale to pick us up from Bologna Centrale.Carrozza 6 is the sleeper car on which we will be traveling — Bologna Centrale.At. ill San Giovanni, we'll be boarding the ferry ... train and all!The red line is pretty much the route we'll be following to Sicily.

    And the Answer Is … Sicily

    Yesterday in Italy ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Yes, Sicily!

    Yes, I know Sicily is an island.

    Yes, I know I said we sorted out our train tickets … and made no mention of flights or ferries. We don’t need either.

    Well, more accurately … yes we do need a ferry, but not as foot passengers. The entire train will be shunted onto a special vessel for the 20-30 minute crossing.

    So, there you have it.

    We are settled into our sleeper cabin aboard the InterCity Notte train to Palermo … though we will be detraining in Cefalù. Since we didn’t begin our ‘travel day until 9:30p, and it is getting on toward midnight, I am going to postpone writing about our first European sleeper train experience until tomorrow.

    In the meantime, I am going to take advantage of the 5G signal as we approach Firenze to post this footprint.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The answer to the 'mystery' of our next destination is on this plate.
    The answer to the 'mystery' of our next destination is on this plate.

    Where Are We Off to Next … Hint!!

    Yesterday in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    If you recognize the featured dish accompanying this footprint, and you know where it originated during the 10th century, then you will likely guess where we are off to next.

    Our trip begins tonight.

    Train tickets all sorted out ✅

    Lodgings are booked ✅

    Sightseeing Plans … we have an idea what we want to see and do from each of the three bases of operation we have chosen for this itinerary. But the plan is fluid and changes are more than likely.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mui at the La Sofritta kitchen for his cooking class — Bologna, Italy.
    Mui at the La Sofritta kitchen for his cooking class — Bologna, Italy.Mui with some of his classmates — from Norway and Australia — Bologna, Italy.Mui with his instructors @ La Sofritta — Bologna, Italy.At his station Mui makes spinach dough and rolls it out paper-thin.The boiled dough leaves ... ready to be layered with ragù, bechamel sauce, and cheese.Mui with his station mate and one of the instructors ... La Sofritta — Bologna, Italy.The personalized lasagnas are ready to go in the oven ... La Sofritta — Bologna, Italy.Time to enjoy the fruits of their labor ... La Sofritta — Bologna, Italy.Use tomato sauce; add milk to cut down on the acidity; salt and pepper after the ragù is cooked.

    Learning the Art of Lasagna Emiliana

    October 2 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Mui, as the chef in our household, has been wanting to take cooking classes since arriving in Bologna in February. He wasn’t necessarily interested in the pasta-making classes that abound all around the city. Rather, he wanted to learn the kind of dishes one might make with vegetables and the like.

    His search for the type of cooking class he wanted was to no avail, however. “You need to find a nonna to instruct you,” he was told. A nonna, of course, is a grandmother. He might have to borrow someone’s nonna at some point to learn what he wants to learn.

    In the meantime, he gave in and went to a pasta-making class last night that also touched on the tips and tricks of making authentic ragù (Bolognese meat sauce made with 2/3 beef and 1/3 pork).

    He enjoyed the small-group cooking experience. The two instructors taught the eight of them how to make spinach dough, roll it out so that it is paper thin, boil and prepare the dough to layer it with ragù, bechamel sauce, and cheese.

    Although they started a ragù to learn the technique, the sauce takes hours and hours to simmer to perfection. Thus, they used the sauce started in yesterday’s class for their individual-sized lasagnas.

    Of course, once the lasagnas were ready, they sat down to enjoy it at a group dinner … with extras such as individual servings of tagliere; natural, bottle-fermented sparkling white wine produced in the hills of Sasso Marconi, Bologna; and homemade gelato with their choice of toppings.

    A fun experience! Now he needs to find time to put into practice what he has learned.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Checking out Tannino — Bologna, Italy.
    Checking out Tannino — Bologna, Italy.Yummy food and wine at Tannino — Bologna, Italy.

    Bruschette e Vino @ Tannino

    October 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    “Where the Scent is Memory and the Taste is Story.”

    Towards the end of October, my nephew and his wife — Hakan & Serenay — will be paying us a short visit. I’m sure food will play an important role in that visit. To that end, today we checked out a bruschetta and wine place on Via Goito, a narrow street off Via Indipendenza.

    We ordered two different types of bruschetta — the Essenza and the Radici, the latter featuring a topping of mortadella, stracciatella cheese from Puglia, grilled artichokes, and fresh basil. As well, we got ourselves a single tagliere platter featuring an assortment of cured meat and cheeses … the Pecorino aged in red wine was different and flavorful. All good … as was the Sangiovese red wine we selected to accompany our meal. Dessert was a mascarpone pudding, if you will, with strawberries and shaved dark chocolate. Yummy, yummy.

    The place was quiet at lunch, but Simeon said that the ambiance is “quite intense in the evening.” I guess we’ll find out for ourselves. We made a reservation for later this month … a four-top on the street … with the suggestion that he would seat us “inside if the temperature dips below 20C.”    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    "Girl with Balloon" by Banksy ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.
    "Girl with Balloon" by Banksy ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Banksy Archive 01 - The School of Bristol 1983-2005 @ Palazzo Fava, Bologna.Banksy Archive 01 - The School of Bristol 1983-2005 @ Palazzo Fava, Bologna."Thelma" by Banksy ... on a ship hull in Bristol, England."Sharks" by Banksy ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.1Fresco cycle and ceiling detail ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Fresco above the fireplace in the Aeneas Room ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Aeneas Room fresco ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Aeneas Room fresco ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."Mute Mona" by 3D; exhibited at Rockin' the City, Birmingham Central Library."The Mild Mild West" by Banksy ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Fireplace fresco in the Aeneas Room ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."Headquarters" by Blu (Bologna-based by adoption) ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Detail from "Headquarters" by Blu (Bologna-based by adoption) ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."Turf War" by Banksy ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."Laugh Now" by Banksy ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.1"Police Kids (Jack & Jill) by Banksy ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Ceiling of the Jason & Medea Main Hall ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Fresco in the Jason & Medea Main Hall ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Fresco in the Jason & Medea Main Hall ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."Happy Chopper" and " "Love is in the Air" ... both by Banksy... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."Spirit of the Hand" by Inkie ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."Gods of War" by Xenz ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy."The White Duel (I & II) by Jody Thomas ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Ceiling detail from the 4th floor ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Fresco ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Glass ceiling in the lobby ... Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.Mui taking a coffee break at Palazzo Fava — Bologna, Italy.

    Banksy @ Palazzo Fava

    October 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Palazzo Fava, now an exhibition center, is a medieval building in the heart of Bologna. The current appearance dates back to 1546 when the Fava family acquired the palazzo. The rooms and halls of the piano nobile (principal floor) are decorated with a fresco cycle that an art historian is known to have described as a “historical novel.”

    We first tried to visit Palazzo Fava in the fall of 2025 … during our ‘recon trip’ to Bologna. It was closed, unfortunately, to prepare for an exhibition of the works of Michelangelo. As luck would have it, that exhibition ended a few days before we moved to Bologna in February of this year. Oh well.

    The current exhibition at Palazzo Fava is entitled “Banksy Archive 01 - The School of Bristol 1983-2005.” The website describes it as offering “… an in depth reconstruction of the origins and development of Banksy’s visual language within the cultural and artistic environment in which it first emerged.” In addition to some of his work, there were also images of the works of key figures from the Bristol scene who helped to shape the iconic works of the anonymous street artist by sharing formative and project experiences with him(?) in Bristol in the 1990s.

    Admittedly, I was more interested in the frescos than what I would consider graffiti art. It was interesting, nonetheless, to note the stark contrast between the medieval fresco cycles encircling the walls and the work Banksy the the othe featured artists.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre) rising out of the mist colored by the sun.
    Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre) rising out of the mist colored by the sun.The clouds are breaking apart for blue skies and sunshine.The antique train that runs between the lower reaches of San Marino to Borgo.

    Back to Bologna

    September 25 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Woke up on our last morning in San Marino to find the valley hidden behind clouds. Within 30 minutes, the clouds were disappearing, being replaced by blue skies and sunshine.

    With our check-out scheduled for 11:00a, we took our time. Breakfast was unhurried … with a second cup of tea as we read for a while. It didn’t take long to pack our carry-ons, put away the last load of dishes when the dishwasher finished its cycle, and take one last look around the apartment to make sure we weren’t leaving anything behind. By 10:45a, the apartment door was pulled closed behind us and we were walking the short distance to the Hotel Rosa lobby to check out.

    We’d arranged for an 11:30a transfer down to the bus station, but the car was available and the driver was ready, so we asked him to take us down once the formalities were completed.

    Our timing gave us to see the single-car antique train that runs to Borgo and back … a 20-minute ride we were told. While we still had 50 minutes before our Bonelli shuttle departure, we decided not to risk it. Antique train after all 😉.

    Instead, we went to the café overlooking the colorful roundabout with its rearing horse statue. A light snack to tide us over … cappuccino for me. Ooops! I forgot it was past 11:00a until after Mui had placed the order. Oh well … we were in San Marino, not Italy. Perhaps the “no cappuccino after 11:00a” rule could be excused this time.

    Our bus ride down the mountain road and through the castelli of San Marino can only be described as a “bus rally” … fast! It was obvious the driver was an old hand on this route. We made a few stops to pick up passengers waiting at stops along the way, but otherwise an uneventful drive brought us to the Rimini Train Station on time.

    From a text message I had received while we were waiting for the Bonelli shuttle departure, we already knew that there was a delay posted for our InterCity train to Bologna … 25 to 30 minutes … due to slow traffic on the rail lines.

    Hoping to get on an earlier train, we went to the ticket counter where the agent looked up various solutions. He came up with two — the Frecciarossa high speed train … completely sold out … and is it turns out, running behind schedule as well; and a TTPER regional train, which required a change. Weighing the pros and cons of switching to the TTPER, we decided to stick with our existing tickets. The agent even managed to change our seats to sit us facing each other by the window, laughing when Mui told him that we’ve been doing so for 45 years now!

    Rimini 55, a café across the street, turned out to be a good place — if a bit windy — to while away a bit of time before returning to make our way to platform 2.

    InterCity 608 departed Rimini Station at 2:15p … 28 minutes behind schedule … a delay that grew to 39 minutes by the we detrained at Bologna Centrale.

    I know the exact delay because the conductor announced it as we pulled up to the platform. They do this because depending on the type of train you are on, and the delay time, you are eligible for a refund on the fare. No can do for us. On InterCity trains, the delay has to be 59 minutes or longer to be eligible for a refund calculated on a sliding scale. Now, had we been on the Frecciarossa train, those 39 minutes would have netted us a 25% bonus to be used on another booking. Oh, well.

    Leaving Bologna Centrale, we hopped on bus #25, hopped off at the Via Ugo Bassi stop, and walked home from there. By 4:30p, we were relaxing with our feet up.

    We get to rest and do chores — and maybe a little sightseeing — before our next trip … 11 days hence.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Basilica of Saint Marinus from the terrace of a nearby park.
    Basilica of Saint Marinus from the terrace of a nearby park.1Delicious lunch at Ristorante Trattoria Ritrovo dei Lavoratori ... sugar packet shaped like a heart.115th century fresco of the "Adoration of the Magi" by Bitino of Faenza — St Francis Art Gallery.Fragment of lace from an altar cloth — St Francis Art Gallery.Gold thread embroidery on a 17th century chasuble — St Francis Art Gallery.A cotta from 1631 with the cuffs embroidered with gold thread — St Francis Art Gallery.15th century fragment of a fresco of Saint Francis receiving the stigmata — St Francis Art Gallery.National Gallery of Art"Discussion among Fidias, Galileo, Duchamp, Seven Dwarfs, and the Idiot" / Enzo Mari (1986)."Opera Contro Natura" (Work Against Nature) / James Brown; (2003) — National Gallery of Art."Exercises for a Polluted Mind" / Martina Conti (2019) — National Gallery of Art."San Marino Times Three" / Philip Taaffe (2004) — National Gallery of Art.1"Sound Break" / Mark Francis (2024) — National Gallery of Art.Fratta Gate — Nighttime stroll.Guaita Tower (Prima Torre) — Nighttime stroll.Guaita Tower (Prima Torre) — Nighttime stroll.Nighttime stroll.The fountain commemorating the new aqueduct was a gift from the American people to the San Marinese.1View from the panorama terrace — Nighttime stroll.Public Palace and Lady Liberty — Nighttime stroll.La Terrazza where we had lunch yesterday ... center table by the railing is where we sat.Nighttime stroll.Basilica of Saint Marinus — Nighttime stroll.Guaita Tower (Prima Torre) ... from the garden near the terrace — Nighttime stroll.

    Città di San Marino: Wrapping Up Day 3

    September 24 in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After spending the morning at the iconic towers of San Marino, we decided to take a break from sightseeing. It was almost 1:00p … time for lunch.

    Mui had done some research that led us to Ristorante Trattoria Ritrovo dei Lavoratori … which roughly translates as the meeting place of the workers. Located outside the immediate tourist center, it had a local ambiance. The menu listed a selection of local specialties … which weren’t all that different from what one finds on Italian menus. The food was good … the portions plentiful … the prices considerably less than most of the other restaurants in town.

    Tummies sated, we next went to a couple of state museums included in our admission ticket.

    First, we retraced our steps to the museum/art gallery at the cloister of the Church of Saint Francis … dating back to 1361. The collection was small … mostly consisting of Christian artifacts … some paintings, a couple of frescos, and several Carrara marble sculptures … the latter inside glass cases that made them impossible to photograph.

    From there, we went to the San Marino National Gallery, which is housed in the Volunteers’ Loggias that date back to the 1930s. The gallery is billed as exhibiting works by some of the most renowned artists of the 20th century. Interesting, but as it turns out, not really our cup of tea.

    We decided to skip the Coin and Stamp Museum since neither of us has much of an interest in philately and numismatics. By this time, having climbed up and down stairs and walked up and down steep streets, our feet were ready for a break anyway. Heading back to the apartment made sense.

    Around 7:30p, revived after a relaxing afternoon at the apartment, we bundled up against the nighttime chill and headed out for a wander to see the city’s monuments lit up at night … the streets all but deserted. I think I counted no more than 10 people walking around. A peaceful and quiet wrap up of our visit to the Republic and City of San Marino.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Guaita Tower (Prima Torre)
    Guaita Tower (Prima Torre)Café on the paved path ... with the fortifications of Guaita Tower.1The Pass of the Witches follows the walkway over the hole in the cliff.Guaita Tower from the Pass of the Witches.The alternative paved path ... at the junction with the Pass of the Witches.Guaita Tower (Prima Torre)Picnic area in the woods along the path.Guaita Tower (Prima Torre)Crossbows were San Marino's traditional arms — Ancient Weapons Museum in the Cesta Tower.One of the many armors on display at the Ancient Weapons Museum in the Cesta Tower.Hand armor at the Ancient Weapons Museum in Cesta Tower.Decorative stock of a Lorenzoni Rifle (17th century) ... at the Ancient Weapons Museum; Cesta Tower.Falconry was considered a noble tradition — at the Ancient Weapons Museum in the Cesta Tower.On the terrace of the Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre).Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre)Guaita Tower and the city serve as a backdrop for this photo from the Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre).Panoramic view of San Marino and the Adriatic Coast of Italy from the Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre).Bell-style turret; part of the curtain wall and bastion structure of Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre).Guaita Tower (Prima Torre) from an arrow slit at Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre).Looking down from the Cesta Tower to the bell-style turret.Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre).Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre) ... from here one can get a good view of Montale Tower (Terza Torre).Montale Tower (Terza Torre) from the bastion of Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre).Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre)Weather vane shaped like an ostrich feather mimics the stylized towers on San Marino's Coat of Arms.Having fun with Guaita Tower as we leave Cesta Tower.Inside the fortifications at Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).The urban walls were enlarged many times, but always encircled the Rocca, the defensive bulwark.The Chapel of Saint Barbara is in the courtyard of Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).One of the detention cells at Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).The mysterious bearded man is part of the prisoner graffiti at Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).More prisoner graffiti ... hidden under whitewash for 200 years ... Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre) from Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).2Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre) from Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).1Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre) from Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).Guaita Tower (Prima Torre)A steep staircase with even steeper iron ladder through a very small opening — Guaita Tower.Cesta Tower (Seconda Torre) and Montale Tower (Terza Torre) from Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).Guaita Tower (Prima Torre)Public Palace and the basilica from Guaita Tower (Prima Torre).

    Città di San Marino: The Three Towers

    September 24 in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    With blue skies and sunshine accompanying us, we set off to check out the iconic towers of San Marino … if you are willing and able to hike uphill — on paved paths and steps that are at times uneven and steep. It was definitely worth the effort.

    You can enter two of the three towers … admission included in the San Marino State Museums and Monuments tickets we purchased yesterday for €8 each … 65+ rate. The third one is permanently closed to the public. We opted to enjoy this tower from a distance instead of walking up to and around it.

    The Coat of Arms for the Republic of San Marino features stylized depictions of the three towers that are situated on the peaks of Monte Titano … ranging in height from 2,378 feet (725 m) to 2,480 feet (756 m) asl. I’m not sure where the first, second and third designation comes, but it makes sense that it might be based on when the towers were built … 11th, 13th, and 14th centuries, respectively. All have been reinforced and restored many times over the centuries, most recently during the 1900s.

    The towers each have more formal names by which they are known — again, respectively … Guaita, Cesta (or Fratta), and Montale. They are connected by a watch path that is 1+ km long. The distance certainly is deceptive as it looks like the towers are spread further apart.

    The towers were built for defensive and lookout purposes. In fact, Guaita is a Sammarinese word that means “to keep watch.” Through the centuries, at least two of them also served as prisons — Montale’s prison cells were 26 feet (8m) below ground … known as the “bottom of the tower;” Guaita’s detention cells were in use until 1970 … for sentences of less than six months.

    The plan for us was to take the uphill paved path all the way from the parking lot just outside the Fratta Gate to the Cesta Tower, and then return to the Guaita Tower via the alternative Passo delle Streghe (Pass of the Witches).

    We started out following the plan, but glimpsing a hole that creates an arch of sorts in the side of the cliff changed our route. We ended up using the Pass of the Witches both ways, detouring briefly to the paved path where required. The Pass is the scenic way to go … with amazing views of not just the country, but all the way to the Adriatic Coast of Italy. The highlight of the views were the towers and the fortifications.

    Since 1956, the Cesta Tower has been housing the Museum of Ancient Weapons in what were once rooms occupied by the garrison of crossbowmen who were stationed at the tower during medieval times. On exhibit is a collection of some 2,000 pieces of armament ranging from the 15th to the 17th century.

    The museum necessarily meant that we spent more time at Cesta Tower. The courtyard of Guaita Tower, however, added more charm to to the fortifications, so I liked it better. Also of interest here was the prisoner graffiti in the detention cells that were hidden for 200 years under layers of whitewash. One such graffiti — repeated throughout the cell — is of a bearded man whose identity remains a mystery to this day.

    After completing our tower visits, we followed the upper roads from the Guaita Tower, which took us to parts of the city that we had not yet explored and back down to the basilica.

    Time to get a bite to eat before continuing our wander around San Marino.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Quiet morning in San Marino.
    Quiet morning in San Marino.

    Città di San Marino: Day 3

    September 24 in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    From the bedroom balcony, Mui took a ‘sneaky photo’ of me reading on the kitchen balcony and enjoying a second cup of tea.

    At that early hour, the day trippers had not yet put in an appearance and the city was nice and quiet. It was a crisp fall morning, requiring some layers to stay warm. Trust me … it warmed up nicely by the time we left to continue exploring San Marino.Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    1Morning view from our balcony.
    1Morning view from our balcony.Città di San Marino ... deserted in the early morning hours.A government building overlooking Piazza della Libertà — Città di San MarinoThe Public Palace overlooking Piazza della Libertà & San Marino's Lady Liberty.Città di San MarinoChiesa di San Francesco — Città di San MarinoChiesa di San Francesco — Città di San MarinoPorta San Francesco, currently the main entrance to the city, dates back to 1451.The flag of the Republic of San Marino."Carving the History of Freedom" by K. Sakaguchi — Città di San Marino1The Cliff Gate ... on our way down to the trailhead.Glimpse of Borgo Maggiore on the way to the trailhead.Panorama of the lower reaches of the country ... Adriatic Sea in the distance (from the trail).Borghesi was a renowned Italian numismatist/epigraphist; moved to San Marino in 1821.In the square near the cable car terminal are 3D panels like this one for the visually challenged.From the panoramic terrace ... lower reaches of San Marino and the Adriatic Sea.Dedicated to the "Victims of the Bombing of 26 June 1944" — Città di San MarinoThe Basilica of Saint Marinus — Città di San MarinoCeiling of the nave of the Basilica of Saint Marinus — Città di San MarinoThe Basilica of Saint Marinus with the statue of the saint — Città di San MarinoThe view from our table at La Terrazza — Città di San MarinoThe view from our table at La Terrazza — Città di San MarinoLunch @ La Terrazza — Città di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoFontana al Giardino dei Liburni ... marks the inauguration of the new aqueduct in 1962.The Volunteers' Loggias houses San Marino's modern and contemporary art collection.Bronze sculpture in the Myriam Michelotti Garden — Città di San Marino1Bronze sculpture in the Myriam Michelotti Garden — Città di San Marino"La Repubblica" by Italian sculptor Vittorio Pochini (1899) — State Museum.Replicas of the "Domagnano Treasure" (originals in museums around the world) — State Museum.Replica cloisonné piece from the Domagnano Treasure — State Museum.An old Coat of Arms from the Porta San Francesco — State Museum.19th century statue of "La Libertà" by Stefano Galletti — State Museum.18th century painting of a view of San Marino with St Marinus, the stonemason — State Museum.19th century bas-relief carving of Deacon St Marinus — State Museum.17th century ceramic plates depicting Spanish soldiers — State Museum.Bell crater type of Gnathia (type of Italian pottery) late 4th-early 3rd century BCE.

    Città di San Marino: Day 2

    September 23 in San Marino ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Another beautiful, blue-sky day … comfortably cool temps that were on the warm side in the sun.

    We set out this morning with the idea of hiking the Sentiero della Rupe (the Cliff Path) that runs below and behind the iconic towers of San Marino. The trail is only about 3 miles long. However, you have to walk practically half-way down the mountain to reach the trailhead. No problem, we thought. Until we got to the trail and started hiking!

    The dirt path was strewn with decaying leaves that hid stumbling blocks waiting to trip the unwary. The uneven stone steps along the way spots covered in slippery moss … with nothing to stop you from tumbling off the narrow path. We hiked for about 10 minutes, spending the entire time watching where we put our feet. And this wasn’t even the stretch that we were warned could be dangerous.

    Nope … not fun. So, we retraced our steps to the trailhead, continued down into Borgo Maggiore, another one of this small country’s municipalities, and took the funivia (cable car) up to Città di San Marino. It took just two minutes to go back up the 1,000+ feet (305m) we had walked down in 30 minutes!

    The cable car dropped us off at the overlook in the lower reaches of San Marino. From there, we took a meandering stroll, going uphill and downhill streets … some of them relatively steep. We stopped to visit some of the sites marked on the map before going to La Terrazza, a restaurant with a panoramic view that includes the Public Palace.

    The beauty of arriving just as the restaurant was opening was that we had our pick of the two-top tables. The food was delicious; the wine perfect for our palate; and the lemon-flavored dessert very refreshing.

    After lunch, we planned to check out the council rooms at the Public Palace — one of the sites included in the combo ticket for the state museums and monuments … with the caveat that it is only possible when the parliament is not in session. No can do today, we were told. The State Museum itself was open, however, so we went there to wrap up our day of sightseeing.

    We have one more day left here and hope to use it to hike up to the towers … via the city streets that promise a steep ascent in places … but easier than a narrow, dirt path with hidden stumbling blocks.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Guaita Tower atop Mount Titano — symbol of San Marino — from the bus station.
    Guaita Tower atop Mount Titano — symbol of San Marino — from the bus station.Roundabout @ Piazzale Ex Stazione marks the location of the narrow-gauge railway; operated 1932-1944Porta della Fratta ... La Fratta (left) is where we had lunch.Delicious lunch at La Fratta.Defensive walls of San Marino.Defensive walls of San Marino.1Potable water fountain near Porta della Fratta.Città di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoPiazzetta Garibaldi — Città di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoRelief of Saint Marinus, the legendary stone mason and founder of San Marino.Francesco Messina's life-sized bronze figure in Piazzetta del Titano — Città di San MarinoFrom the steps ... watching the supermarket while Mui shopped inside.Cute doggie — Città di San MarinoThe tower of the Church and Museum of St Francis — Città di San MarinoFountain with stone carving of the coat of arms of San Marino.San Marino Coat of Arms: the iconic towers atop the peaks of Mt Titano.1Stephanie Krome's "Mother & Son" — Città di San Marino1Dedicated to the children who were killed in terrorist attack/school hostage crisis in Beslan (2004)Porta Nova ... part of the third line of defensive walls — Città di San Marino."Conversion of a Very Happy Woman" by A. Piras — Città di San MarinoFrom the tower at Porta Nova.View from the Tower at Porta Nova — Città di San MarinoStairs from Porta Nova up to Porta della Frata.Star of David, Christian Cross, and Islamic Crescent on the belfry of the Nuova Chapel.View from our apartment with the Cesta Tower in the distance.Cesta Tower from our apartment.

    And the Answer Is … San Marino!

    September 22 in San Marino ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The Republic of San Marino … the world’s 5th smallest country … and perhaps the oldest constitutional republic as well, with a claim of having been founded in 301 CE. That’s where a 2 ½-hour train/bus trip from Bologna brought us today.

    This microstate, entirely surrounded by Italy, is situated on the slopes of the Apennine Mountains. Its capital city — also named San Marino — is one of the nine castelli (municipalies) into which the country is divided.

    The City of San Marino (or simply San Marino here on out) is a medieval walled city with narrow cobblestone streets. It sits atop Monte Titano … the highest point of the country. The historic center and the monte are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites … since 2008.

    Most people visit San Marino on a day trip. We’re staying three nights at a property that is in the high reaches of the city … just a short hike below the iconic towers set into the defensive walls. We’re looking forward to enjoying the peace and quiet before the day trippers arrive and again after they leave.

    Since we did not want to negotiate the steep cobblestone streets with our carry-on bags in tow, we arranged for the hotel to pick us up from the bus stop outside the city walls. Once we checked in at Hotel Rosa, we left our bags with the front desk and went off to have lunch.

    From the list of restaurant recommendations provided by the hotel, we settled on La Fratta … which turned out to be next door … though we took a roundabout way to get there. We were seated at a table along the railing of the balcony …overlooking Porta della Fratta … the entrance into the city through the older second set of walls. Tasty food; a glass of chilled Sangiovese di San Marino; a delicious crema de catalan served with a scoop of pistachio gelato. A perfect start to our time in San Marino.

    Our apartment was ready by the time we finished lunch, but we decided to walk off our meal first and get some groceries from the only ‘supermarket’ in the city. Our walk gave us an opportunity to meander through the streets, do a bit of window-shopping, and even get ‘acquainted’ with some of the stairs that take people from one level of the city to the next.

    We’re now settled into the apartment — recently renovated, clean, and spacious … though missing ‘decorative touches’ that would make it homey. Time to put together a plate of snacks and watch something on Netflix.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.
    Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.1

    La Piazza si Riaccende

    September 19 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 75 °F

    “The Square Rekindling” … at Piazza Maggiore … the main square, around the corner from where we live.

    An exciting three-night event … a light & music show … the first night of which was part of a crowdfunding campaign that included a concert … and seating. We went tonight instead … to see the first of three nightly standing-room only shows scheduled at 9:00p, 10:00p, and 11:00p. The event lasts about 10-15 minutes, so standing was not an issue.

    The premise of the show is to bring to life the unfinished façade of the Basilica di San Petronio … set to the music of Rossini’s William Tell Overture. The building is used as a canvas for a videomapping installation conceived by Luca Agnani. The projected images depict the different architectural designs that were proposed over the centuries to complete the façade … including a more contemporary “green” tribute.

    Arriving about ½-hour before the show, we found the piazza crowded. It wasn’t long before it was literally packed. We wanted a slightly elevated place to stand so that I could see over all the taller-than-me people. We lucked out with a spot on the steps of the building across the square from the basillica. We were slightly off-center, and the canopies protecting the equipment were a bit of an irritant, but it was otherwise the perfect spot for viewing the show.

    As magnificent — and sometimes over-the-top — as the proposed façades were, I’m glad the basilica has remained as is. Its ‘unfinished’ look gives it a unique identity that seems to fit perfectly into the square where it is located.

    A great show … and worth postponing our upcoming trip by a few days to make sure we didn’t miss it!

    (The video is too long to post here, so I am including a photo slide-show. If you wish to see the video itself, click this link to go to my SmugMug Gallery for Bologna: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/BCIT/ExpIT/Bl….)    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella

    One More Sleep …

    August 3 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    … and then we’ll be off .. once more in search of cooler temps.

    🔹 Bags are packed … zippers to be secured with zip ties tomorrow morning … just in case we have something to add at the last minute.

    🔹 Check-in is completed for Lufthansa — the carrier that will take us from Bologna to Bergen tomorrow … via Frankfurt. Boarding passes are saved to the iPhone wallet for easy access.

    🔹 Mui took the recycling out to the street bins; he’ll take the trash down after breakfast.

    🔹 Most of the ‘temporary shut-down’ checklist for the apartment has checkmarks in the completed column. We’ll take care of the rest before we lock the door tomorrow.

    To follow along … https://findpenguins.com/8pccjefaitoru/trip/6a3….    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Traveling a different, shorter route back to Bologna aboard Frecciarossa.
    Traveling a different, shorter route back to Bologna aboard Frecciarossa.Vineyard-scene on the way from Roma to Bologna on Frecciarossa.

    Bye Bye Roma! See You Again …

    July 30 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Yes, we’ll return to Roma at some point — when the crowds have thinned out and the temperature is cooler … much cooler!

    In the meantime, let’s wrap up opera getaway.

    Up early, we had one last breakfast at the apartment; washed and put away the dishes; finished packing; and prepared for our travel day.

    By 9:00a, we were ready to check out. I suppose we could have killed time at the apartment for another hour. But we decided to head to Termini instead. Figured we’d go to the Mercato Centrale, the indoor artisanal food hall and market at the station, browse the stalls for a snack to take with us on the train, and do some people watching.

    And that’s what we did … after sending our host a WhatsApp note, which included a few comments about the apartment … particularly the need for more attention to detail by the cleaning crew.

    We had over an hour to kill once we got to Termini and the Mercato Centrale proved to be a good place to do so. Capuccinos … pastries … cold beverages … easy access to facilities by scanning our purchase receipts. It was quiet until about 20 minutes before we had to go back to the station proper … at which point, several groups of young adults descended on the place.

    Our Frecciarossa train, which originated at Reggio Calabria … at the bottom of Italy, departed on time at 11:35a. Once again, the train was packed. At the time we booked our tickets, only premium seats were available, so this time we were in carrozza 4 … same row of seats as before … going backwards pretty much until we got to Firenze. The ride was half as long as our outbound train … following a route further inland since the train was destined for Venice … Bologna the next stop after Firenze.

    We were just 2 minutes late when we detrained at Bologna Centrale at 2:00p … but otherwise the ride was uneventful. Luckily, we didn’t have to wait long for bus #30 to pull into the station as it was hot, hot, hot. That this bus had working A/C was a godsend.

    By 2:30p, we were home. First order of business … crank on the A/C. Second order of business … shopping for groceries. Mui took care of that at the nearby Coop while I unpacked. Having done a load of laundry at the apartment in Roma, what few things that need laundering can wait.

    Now, we have a few days at home before we head back out for what we hope will be our “Escape the Heat” trip for August. 🤞🏻the temperatures cooperate!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    1Gallery on piano nobile (main floor) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.
    1Gallery on piano nobile (main floor) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Entrance to the National Gallery of Antique Art — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Cleopatra" (Pietro Paolo Olivieri; 1574) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.1"Ploughman with Oxen" (ancient Roman mosaic; 3rd-4th century) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Front panel of a 3rd century sarcophagus with grape harvest scene — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.1"Isole Borromee" (Vantivelli) ... we visited the islands in August 2025 — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.The First Gallery is the hall one enters from the antechamber — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.A peek into the Green Chamber at the end of the First Gallery — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.1"Dancer with Finger on Her Chin" (Luigi Bienamé after Antonio Canova) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Mystic Marriage of St Catherine with St Anthony of Padova" (Scarsellino) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Niche with a putti fresco background in the First Gallery... by Ginesio del Barba — Palazzo Corsini."Vanitas" (Angelo Caroselli) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.1"Winter Landscape" (Lucas van Uden) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Door in the First Gallery with scenes from Roman ruins (Piazza Pietro; 1736-38) — Palazzo Corsini."View of the Tower of Capo d'Anzio" (Anesi Paolo; 18th century) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Gallery of the Cardinal — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.The Corsini Throne (2nd or 1st BCE) in the Room of the Fireplace — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.The Corsini Throne (2nd or 1st BCE) in the Room of the Fireplace — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.1"Head of an Old Man (Peter Paul Rubens) in the Room of the Fireplace — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Genius Fishing" (Pietro Tenerani) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Genius Hunting" (Pietro Tenerani) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.1Room of the Alcove — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Ceiling of the Room of the Alcove — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Story of Moses" ... ceiling detail from the Room of the Alcove — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Ceiling detail from the Room of the Alcove — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Meeting of Rebekah and Eliazar at the Source " (Carlo Maratta) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Story of Solomon" ... ceiling fresco from the Room of the Alcove — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Story of Solomon" ... ceiling detail from the Room of the Alcove — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."St Sebastian Healed by Angels" (Peter Paul Rubens) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Roman funerary urn made from marble (1st century) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Personification of the Tiber River (16th century) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.1Peeking through to the First Gallery — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Preparations for Dinner" (Christian Berentz) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma."Judith with the Head of Holofernes" (Gerard Seghers) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Mui studying "Psyche Carried by the Zephyrs" (John Gibson, student of Canova) — Palazzo Corsini.1"Psyche Carried by the Zephyrs" (John Gibson, student of Canova) — Palazzo Corsini.Detail from one of the zephyrs of "Psyche Carried by the Zephyrs" (John Gibson, student of Canova).Door decorated with grotesques (Marchetti Giovanni Battista; 1776-78) — Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Architectural details from around Palazzo Corsini, Roma.Igea — ancient Greek goddess of health, cleanliness, & prevention of illness — Palazzo Corsini, Roma

    Roma: Gallerie Nazionali @ Corsini

    July 29 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    Rome’s National Gallery of Antique Art was born at Palazzo Corsini soon after the palace was sold to the Italian State in 1883.

    The sale included the art collected by Cardinal Nero Maria Corsini and members of his family, as well as the gifts they acquired due to their prestigious standing in the city. This nucleus of art has since grown through donations and includes paintings from the 14th to the 18th century.

    To be honest, we didn’t know about this venue of the gallery. We have the attendant at Palazzo Barberini to thank for this segue to our day. After he handed Mui a plastic coin to insert into a locket at Palazzo Barberini, he mentioned that the admission we paid would also gain us entrance to the Palazzo Corsini venue.

    And thus it was that we set out toward Trastevere. I must admit that the walk was long. Well, not really … but the broiling hot afternoon heat made it seem so. Despite guzzling water along the way — supplemented with electrolyte packs — the going was tough.

    Luckily, at one point, we spotted a branch of the gelateria that we first happened upon in 2015 … La Romana dal 1947. Nothing like a delicious, creamy, cold treat at one of our favorite gelateria to give us enough energy to complete the walk to Palazzo Corsini.

    This venue is smaller than Palazzo Barberini … the collection is housed in the piano nobile (main floor) rooms. That’s not to say that it was second rate. Not at all. There were fantastic pieces being exhibited … and, once again, frescoed ceilings to enjoy. In fact, I liked the art here better as there were more pieces that were not religious in nature.

    By the time we were ready to leave at 4:30p, Mui had decided that we’d be taking a taxi back to our apartment. No more walking in the heat.

    While I did a quick second round of the gallery for some detail shots, he download the itTaxi app. The app recommends booking your ride at least 30 minutes prior to when you want to depart, but we lucked out with a ride within 5 minutes of ordering it. The car even had a working A/C!

    And so our visit to Roma is a wrap. We were thinking of going out for a wander in St. Peter’s Square in the Vatican tonight, but we’re too drained to do so. Best to rest up before tomorrow’s departure to Bologna … where more hot temps are waiting to welcome us back.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Fontana del Tritone — Piazza Barberini, Roma.
    2Fontana del Tritone — Piazza Barberini, Roma.Our lunch spot ... one of our favorites in Roma for the food and local ambiance.Delicious lunch at Hostaria Romana — Roma, Italy.Galleria Alberto Sordi, named for the actor by the same name, was originally Galleria Colonna — RomaInaugurated in 1922, Galleria Sordi has a beautiful art nouveau style decorative glass ceiling.Crossing the Tevere — Roma, Italy.2Crossing the Tevere — Roma, Italy.The Tevere (Tiber River) from the Trastevere side — Roma, Italy.

    Roma: Repast & Ramble

    July 29 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    After our visit to the Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica in 2018, we happened upon a hostaria off on a side street. It was packed. We didn’t have a reservation. But they managed to find us two seats in what we referred to as the ‘dungeon room’ … only because it was at the back of the building and down a couple of stairs. The food was delicious; the ambiance was local. In other words, it was the kind of place we always look for when searching for a place to eat.

    And that’s how Hostaria Romana came to be one of our favorite restaurants in Roma. We’ve since had lunch there every time we’ve been in Roma … except the one time we were in the city on the day the restaurant was closed.

    Though we’ve managed to get in without reservations on previous occasions, this time we decided to be safe rather than sorry. Mui made a reservation for 1:00p, and when we arrived, we were seated at a two-top in the glass-enclosed front room. It didn’t take long for every table to be filled … most with locals.

    We skipped the wine because of the hot temps and ordered water — “frizzante, per favore” — and homemade lemonade.

    Although I knew what I would be ordering, I still perused the menu. That’s how I found a house specialty that I knew Mui would enjoy … ossobucco with mushrooms and peas … a different preparation of the braised veal shank dish. He raved about it throughout the meal and even shared bits with me.

    My choice, as always was, another house specialty that happens to be one of the four pasta dishes that are synonymous with Roma … cacio e pepe … prepared with a type of pasta called tonnarelli. Delicious ... though you have to like black pepper as it is a prominent part of the dish. Yes, I did share with Mui.

    Comfortably sated with our meal — we had a light breakfast this morning just so we would be hungry by lunchtime — we ordered what was described as a ricotta cheesecake … really a ricotta crostata with a layer of wild cherry jam. Yummy … and very light.

    Following our excellent-as-usual lunch, we thanked Ivano — who married into the family that runs Hostaria Romana, and was our host today — and began the second jiggle of our day … which took us across the Tevere (Tiber River) to the neighborhood of Trastevere.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Palazzo Barberini ... one of two venues of the National Gallery of Antique Art — Roma, Italy.
    Palazzo Barberini ... one of two venues of the National Gallery of Antique Art — Roma, Italy.View through one of the arches on the ground floor entrance of Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.Ceiling detail from Taddeo Barberini's apartment (nephew of Pope Urban VIII) — Roma, Italy.Ivory chest ... National Gallery of Antique Art — Roma, Italy."Virgin & Child" by Michele Giambono (1450) ... National Gallery of Antique Art — Roma, Italy."Barberini Annunciation" by Filippo Lippi (1440-45) ... National Gallery of Antique Art — Roma.Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.The Bernini square staircase ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy."Vestal Virgin Tuccia" (Veiled Woman) by Antonio Corradini (1743) ... Nat'l Gallery of Antique Art.Portrait of Henry VIII by Hans Holbein (1540) ... National Gallery of Antique Art — Roma, Italy.Fresco entitled "Triumph of Divine Wisdom" by Andrea Sacchi (1649-30) ... Palazzo Barberini.Frescoed ceiling with pastoral scene in the central medallion ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.Bronze (head) and porphyry and serpentine bust of Pope Urban VIII by Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1630-31).Chapel of the Crucifixion ... altar fresco by Pietro da Cortona ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.While the Barberini Chapel was designed by Bernini, the dome was painted by Cortona's workshop.Ornate hallway ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.Vault painting detail from the ornate hallway ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy."A Collector's Cabinet" by Frans Francken II Il Giovane (1616) ... National Gallery of Antique Art .Beautifully frescoed ceiling ... Palazzo Barberini. — Roma, Italy.Detail from a ceiling fresco ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy."St Jerome" by Trophime Bigot (1625) ... master of candlelight effects on different surfaces."Narcissus" attributed to Caravaggio (1597-98) ... National Gallery of Antique Art — Roma, Italy.2"Woman in Blue Reading a Letter" by Johannes Vermeer (1662-64) ... National Gallery of Antique Art.Van Gogh's impression of Vermeer & Woman in Blue Reading a Letter ... Nat'l Gallery of Antique Art.Pietro da Cortona Salon ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy."Triumph of Divine Providence" ceiling fresco in the Pietro da Cortona Salon ... Palazzo Barberini.Hercules drives off the Harpies; Justice & Plenty aid the beggars ... "Triumph of Divine Providence"Sketches used to create the 17th century tapestries by the Barberini Tapestry Factory (1625-1680).Sketch for a Barberini workshop tapestry depicting the Consecration of St. Peter's Basilica.Ornate door handle ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.Sketch for the Constantine series of tapestries ... depicting Constantine destroying pagan idols.Sketch for the Constantine series of tapestries ... depicting Constantine fighting the lion.Shoes that were a symbol of identity, seduction, domination, and elevation — Roma, Italy.Gilded oriental panels ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.Looking up into a crystal chandelier and ceiling medallion — Palazzo Barberini.Supports (hand/finngers) indicate Bernini did not finish the bust of Pope Clement X Altieri."Finding of Moses" fresco by Rominelli ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy."Venice with the Rialto Bridge" by Canaletto (1735-40) ... Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.Borromini's oval staircase; tight, helicodal shape; in stark contrast to Bellini's square staircase.Palazzo Barberini — Roma, Italy.

    Roma: Palazzo Barberini … Woman in Blue

    July 29 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    It was nearly 1:00a when we got back to the apartment from the opera last night. Mui was in bed within minutes of returning. Not me. A-buzz with the excitement of the performance, it took me awhile to wind down.

    Hence, a short night for me. “No problem,” I figured. The only thing on the calendar for our second full day in Roma was lunch … at 1:00p. We’d sleep in, relax, and then head out with enough time to make our reservation.

    A fine and dandy plan. Except that before I turned in, I came across a promotional list of current events and activities in Roma. The dates for most of the things on the list did not work with our schedule. But one did. So, no sleeping in and relaxing this morning.

    With a jiggle added to our day, we had breakfast and then headed off to Palazzo Barberini … one of the two venues of Roma’s Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica (National Gallery of Antique Art). We didn’t know it when we set out this morning, but as it turns out, we’d also be visiting the other venue. So, I guess you could say that we jiggled our plans twice today.

    Anyway, we knew exactly how to get to Palazzo Barberini since we had visited the gallery in 2018. Coincidentally, that visit also followed a musical performance that let out after midnight! Two metro rides — changing from one line to the other at Termini — put us at Piazza Barberini. From there, it was a short walk to the palazzo, which is said to be the prototypical Baroque palace.

    The building was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII Barberini as a family residence. Three of the most important architects of the 17th century had a hand in the design … of whom I only knew the name of Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The interior decorations were a work in progress through the middle of the 18th century. In 1953, the palazzo became the second venue for the National Gallery of Antique Art … featuring works from Italy and Europe that date from 1200 to 1700.

    Once we purchased our admission — €15/adult (no senior rate) — we explored the various rooms. Not much of the art looked familiar. That came as a surprise since we’d been to this gallery before. Then I remembered that the rooms on the second floor had been closed in 2018 to reorganize the exhibited works, so we didn’t see everything at that time.

    So, for all intents and purposes, this turned out to be a new-to-us gallery visit. With a bonus. We got to see Johannes Vermeer’s “Donna in blu che legge una lettera” (Woman in Blue Reading a Letter) … the painting on loan from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam … which is what we came to see in the first place!

    P.S. You’ll notice in the photos that I focused a great deal on architectural details/ceiling frescos. The art, with few exceptions, was mostly religious in nature. Thus, my attention wandered quite a bit.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Circo Massimo ... 2800 years of spectacle — Roma, Italy.
    Circo Massimo ... 2800 years of spectacle — Roma, Italy.Circo Massimo ... Torre della Moletta sits inside the site — Roma, Italy.The opera stage is at the far end of Circo Massimo — Roma, Italy.Sunset on our way to the opera ... Circo Massimo — Roma Italy.Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo Massimo — Roma, Italy.Promo of Aida on the big screen at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo Massimo — Roma, Italy.Triumphant Return ... Aida ... Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo Massimo — Roma, Italy.Aida ... Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo Massimo — Roma, Italy.Radamès accidentally revealing a secret military route to the King of Ethiopia ... Aida.Radamès being condemned to death for treason ... Aida ... Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo MassimoScenes from Aida ... Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo Massimo — Roma, Italy.Members of the dance troupe taking a bow ... Aida ... Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo Massimo.The principals of the cast taking a bow ... Aida ... Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at Circo Massimo.The principals and the conductor taking a bow ... Aida ... Teatro dell’Opera di Roma @ Circo Massimo

    Roma: Which Opera?

    July 28 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 86 °F

    And the answer is … Aida … the tragic opera by Giuseppe Verdi, which appropriately debuted in Cairo … in 1871.

    Our opera outing was another ‘bambino memory journey’ for Mui.

    Back in the 1960s, he’d gone with his mom, aunt, and sister to see this very opera … performed amongst the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. The memories that stood out for him were the scenes of the triumphant return of the Egyptian army. And more so, the white horses that came galloping on stage towards the audience … reined in at the last minute to the accompaniment of gasps from the people sitting near the stage. He didn’t remember that elephants came lumbering onto the stage as well … until his sister recently reminded him.

    Mui has one more memory from that evening … but I’ll reveal that at the end of this footprint.

    Aida continues to be performed at the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. However, that venue is closed for restoration now, so Teatro dell’Opera di Roma had to move to a new venue … Circo Massimo … the site of spectacles for 2,800 years!

    And now you know why we booked the apartment at which we are staying on this trip … convenience, convenience, convenience. That we could walk to and from the opera tonight … well, that was priceless.

    Anyway, our decision to see Aida in Roma came about when we were in Türkiye in June. Mui saw a promotional notice for it, and the rest is history.

    We researched the seating chart for the venue at Circo Massimo before purchasing our tickets for the last performance of the season … opting for row 15 … the first row after the first aisle … primarily because we’d read that the first section was flat. Turns out that it isn’t … there is a slight incline. But the aisle provided a slight advantage for me, the shortie, so we were happy with our seats … except for when the ‘baldy’ in the last row of the first section raised his arm — repeatedly — to rub his baldpate like it was the tummy of Buddha!

    The opera is in Italian, of course, but there were large screens on either side of the stage where the lyrics were displayed in English as well as Italian. Though I knew the story, it was nice to understand the gist of what was being sung.

    The days of true stage spectacles are gone it seems. At least in this case. No elaborate sets … the changing scenes are projected onto the panels at the back of the stage … more to reflect the ambiance of the moment. No horses rushing onto stage … no elephants joining them either. That said, the triumphal scene had something like 150 actors, dancers, chorus members, trumpeters on stage in addition to the main cast, so it was pretty impressive.

    Did this more modern presentation of the opera detract from our evening? No. The music was wonderful … the singing beautiful. And unlike the time Mui took his mom to see Aida in Paris, the story had not been modernized to the 21st century and the costumes fit the period in which the story is set.

    Speaking of the story, you can Google it for an in depth version. In the meantime, here’s a quick recap.

    Aida is an enslaved Ethiopian Princess in the service of Amneris, the Egyptian Princess. She and Radamès, the Egyptian military commander deeply love each other. Princess Amneris also loves Radamès and suspects that he cares for Aida.

    When war breaks out between Egypt and Ethiopia, Radamès is chosen to lead the Egyptian army, leaving Aida torn between her love for him and her homeland. Radamès returns victorious, bringing Ethiopian prisoners, including King Amonasro, Aida's father … who is in disguise. The King of Egypt grants Radamès's wish to free the prisoners. As an additional reward, the King also decrees that Radamès will marry Princess Amneris.

    Desperate to flee so they can be together, Aida and Radamès meet secretly. Tricked by Aida's father, Radamès unintentionally reveals a secret military route. He can’t forgive himself for being a traitor … though it is unintentional. He does not try to clear his name, and accepts the judgment of the priests that he be condemned to death by being buried alive. Unwilling to live without Radamès, Aida hides inside the sealed stone tomb to die alongside him, and the two lovers pass away together in each other's arms.

    I did say that it was a tragic opera.

    Oh, yes. Mui’s other memory from his first Aida experience.

    They were returning home after the performance when they walked past some women. When 8-year-old Mui asked his mom who they were, she was at a loss as to how to explain that they were prostitutes. His aunt stepped in and told him they were “buonasera teyzeler” … buonasera = good evening in Italian; teyzeler = aunts in Turkish!!!

    No, we did not see any “buonasera teyzeler” on the way home tonight 😂.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Running track near the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla — Roma, Italy.
    Running track near the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla — Roma, Italy.Glimpse of the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla ... restoration work is underway — Roma, Italy.Ash cicada Mui almost squashed when he went to lean on a tree; no worries, the bug is alive & well.Glimpse of the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla from Via Antonina — Roma, Italy.Clementino ... our lunch spot on Largo del Tritone — Roma, Italy.2Clementino ... delicious lunch — Roma, Italy.Mosaic mural inside the Spagna Metro Station — Roma, Italy.Mosaic mural inside the Spagna Metro Station — Roma, Italy.Mural at the Circo Massimo metro station ... celebrating the 80th anniversary of FAO — Roma.1The shoes that begged to come home with me 🤣 — Roma, Italy.

    Roma: Food & Footwear

    July 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F

    The original plan after our visit to the FAO MuNe was to return to the apartment … and stay there until it was time to leave for the opera. Instead, we decided to add a jiggle.

    I’ve been on the hunt for some comfy, yet stylish, white footwear. No luck in Bologna. Continuing the search in Roma, we figured, would increase my chances of finding what I was looking for. We knew there was a Vivaia shop in Roma — one of only two in Italy … the other one in Milano — it made sense to check it out. And that’s how we ended up in the neighborhood of our old haunts from previous stays in Roma.

    First, a quick stop at the apartment to re-fill our water bottles and add electrolyte packs to replenish the fluids we had already lost through copious amounts of sweat. Then, we went down the steps to the metro entrance in front of our building. We hopped on the train in the direction of Termini … and hopped off at the Cavour Station.

    From there, it was a rather long and hot walk. Luckily there was plenty of shade to take advantage of and a traffic tunnel that afforded the occasional breeze from vehicles passing by at speed. Not that it was ‘chill’ in the shade, but every means of dropping the broiling temperature down a degree or two was welcome. The handheld fan I picked up in Japan in 2023 got a workout today!

    When we arrived at Via del Tritóne, we decided to take a break and stop for lunch. Spying a place called Clementino nearby, we decided that it would do. We knew nothing of this restaurant — except that the ambiance reminded us of the old world charm of the Old Ebbitt Grill in Washington, DC. And it had a good star rating and reviews when we checked online.

    Excellent choice. The service was attentive; the food delicious; and the A/C was providing the right amount of cooling comfort. In really hot weather, we skip wine, so fizzy water and lemonade were our beverages of choice. I ordered a spinach salad … light and perfect for a summer day. Mui ordered the calamari … perfect texture. We shared both plates … as well as the mango sorbet served with panna in what the menu described as a wafer, but was more like a crispy, caramelized tuile shaped like a basket … delicious, refreshing, and beautiful presentation.

    Our tummies sated, we continued our walk to complete the shopping portion of our day. We stopped in at La Rinascente to check out their footwear department … nope, not spending €750 for a pair of sandals … Ferragamo or not! But the A/C was a welcome respite. We continued on … stopping it at other shoe stores … for ‘A/C shopping’ the displays inside. Nothing! Nada!

    Our actual destination was Via Frattina, a narrow street that branches off from Piazza di Spagna. The Vivaia store had a good selection of shoes … no white ones that fit my requirements, however, so the search continues. But I did find a couple of other pairs on sale that begged to go home with me 😂.

    Totally drained by this time, we walked back to Piazza di Espagna. It was packed with tourists from all around the world, standing under the broiling sun to take photos of the Spanish Steps. The smart ones had hats on or were using umbrellas to provide their own shade … yet others were sitting around Fontana della Barcaccia, the Baroque fountain in front of the steps, their feet in the water.

    We didn’t dally. We hotfooted it through the crowd to the Spagna Metro Station … hopped on the blue line in the direction of Battistini and switched to the orange line at Termini for the short ride to Circo Massimo.

    Time to rehydrate … rest … and relax before our opera outing.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mui with the FAO HQ where MuNe is located ... before crossing over from the apartment.
    Mui with the FAO HQ where MuNe is located ... before crossing over from the apartment.Welcome to the FAO MuNe — Roma.In the lobby outside MuNe ... at the FAO HQ — Roma.Virtual welcome to MuNe ... at the FAO HQ — Roma.Collection of photographs showing some of the FAO projects ... MuNe — Roma.Jeju Haenyeo represents a 1000 y.o. fishing tradition practiced by women divers on Jeju Island.A page from Ippolito Salviani's groundbreaking work on the history of aquatic animals.Tree of Knowledge; dynamic symbol illustrating how culture and learning shape future generations.Traditional Uzbek tandyr; clay oven central to Uzbek cuisine for bread and stuffed pastries — MuNe.Traditional atlas and adras silk textiles embody the living heritage of Uzbek silk-weaving — MuNe.2Issued for the UN observance, this is a €5 limited coin — MuNe, Roma.One of several posters promoting special FAO sponsored events — MuNe, Roma.3D printed model of a fish smoking and drying method ... FAO-Thiaroye Processing Technique.1"Food in Hand, Calm in Mind" embroidery from the Hubei Province of China — MuNe, Roma.What we wear has an impact on the environment and people, just like what we eat — MuNe, Roma.From Slovakia; features folk and agricultural motifs — MuNe, Roma.4Made by a FAO GIAHS site in China; the 80th anniversary plate is inlaid with 10,000+ local pearls.1A carved ebony canoe figurehead representing ancestral deities ... from the Solomon Islands — MuNe.Knowledge in Bloom; a Hortus Wall; brings to life a rare 18th century Italian botanical masterpiece.Bill Reid silk screen print; representing the killer whale; Haida symbology — MuNe, Roma.A publication celebrating the International Year of the Woman Farmer; bridging a century of history.FAO's celebrated David Lubin Memorial Libraryhas some 1.5 million volumes in its collection.Russian peasant costume reflecting agrarian heritage & women's artistry dating to the 12th century.Presented by Pope Leo; reproduction of an illustrated pharmacopoeia manuscript dated to 1400.2Khökhüüri to churn fermented mare's milk (L); dairy bucket; & horse saddle ... presented by MongoliaKamdhenu Cow w/Calf; symbol of nurturing animals in rural communities & practice of organic farming."Living Heritage" ... Journey around the world in three minutes ... an immersive experience — MuNe.Screenshots from "Living Heritage" ... Journey around the world in three minutes — MuNe, Roma.The Vine; each leaf releases its natural tannins, imprinting itself on the fabric; by Chiara Camoni.3FAO & Italy Room — MuNe, Roma.Screenshots from multimedia presentation on FAO — MuNe, Roma.1Close to the Edge; balance is not stillness, but a constant search for harmony b/w opposing forces.Mountain Elm: branches for grazing animals; wood & furniture for domestic life.The "Hope" room offers Indigenous Peoples a platform to share their stories on their own terms.Replica of 11th century Agriculture Romanesque calendar of the Museum of St Isidoro of León."Maize is Our Plumb Line" (Betsabeé Romero) ... to guide us back to our roots.1Creating the Third Paradise; Pistoletto; poplar wood = balance & birth ➡️ conscious dialogue.Green Vestige; body becomes both landscape & memory; nature is not an ornament, but a symbol — MuNe.1A 22-year old Turkish woman who went into beekeeping ... FAO's Food Heroes exhibit — MuNe.2Fish waste to fashion; from Cabo Verde; bags crafted using sustainable fish leather.Woven art from Lesotho — MuNe, Roma.1Visitors can attach their names/images to various causes; we chose "save water" — MuNe, Roma.

    Roma: FAO MuNe

    July 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    A good night’s sleep in air conditioned comfort! Blissful!

    With our tour scheduled for 11:15a, we had an easy morning at home, relaxing after breakfast and mentally preparing ourselves to step into the ‘oven’ … to go out, that is.

    The good news? We didn’t have far to go. Our tour was at the FAO MuNe (Food and Agriculture Organization Museum & Network) … practically across the street and around the corner from the apartment.

    I’ve mentioned previously that Mui lived in Roma when he was a bambino. What brought the family here was his father’s job at the FAO HQ … he was an agricultural engineer. When Mui took his mother to Italy for a week in 2018, they tried to visit the FAO building … to no avail. Times had changed and places you could freely enter back in the 1960s, now sat behind secure fences that allowed entrance only to those who had a need to be there. That is still the case today.

    When we found mention of a FAO tour during our trip prep, however, Mui’s hopes were raised that he’d be able to wander the halls he’d walked with his father back in the day … maybe have lunch at the terrace café. As it turns out, a minimum of 15 people are needed to organize a tour. We didn’t have 13 more people to form a group. As for dining at the café … well, you have to know someone there. We knew no one.

    But, we could go to MuNe … which was inaugurated last year to coincide with the World Food Day and the 80th anniversary of the FAO.

    I’ve been referring to our visit as a tour, but it was more a DIY experience at our own pace, with an escort to and from the museum … who gave us a preamble in front of the wall that outlines the three pillars of the FAO charter in the six official languages of the organization — the eradication of hunger, the elimination of poverty, and the sustainable management of natural resources. That this oldest of the United Nation’s agencies has its work cut out for itself goes without saying.

    The website describes MuNe as “… a journey through art, nature, and culture to explore the past, present and future of food and agriculture.” Reservations are required … free. This ensures that there are no more than 30 people inside during any time slot.

    We were lucky in that we were the only two in our 11:15a slot … which gave us a head start over some of the larger groups that followed. Most were in and out of the rooms quickly. Our pace was such that a volunteer had to remind us that the museum would be “… closing in 10 minutes … at 1:00p.” Luckily, we had just one room left to go 😃.

    There’s a lot to see and do at MuNe … reading info panels; watching multimedia presentations; checking out interactive displays and ‘virtually’ flipping through old manuscripts; enjoying an eclectic collection of art donated by member nations.

    We also spent quite a bit of time at the immersive experience that was opened just a week ago. Designed as a way to discover FAO's Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHS), the experience is an “… audiovisual journey across living agricultural landscapes and traditions. …” It’s not unlike the immersive art exhibits we’ve gone through over the years … images displayed on the walls and floor of a room where one can sit or stand and let the visuals and narration/music tell the story.

    I wasn’t sure what to exactly expect when I agreed to accompany Mui to the FAO MuNe. It turned out to be a great experience.

    For anyone interested in more information: https://www.fao.org/museum-network/en.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    1Mui had a canine companion sleeping in the aisle next to his seat — Aboard Frecciarossa to Roma.
    1Mui had a canine companion sleeping in the aisle next to his seat — Aboard Frecciarossa to Roma.Porta Maggiore, built in 52 AD by Emperor Claudius ... as the train approaches Roma Termini — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.Our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.The view from our apartment in the San Saba neighborhood of Roma — Italy.A glimpse of Circo Massimo from this afternoon's walk — San Saba, Roma.2Honoring Jews arrested and deported to Auschwitz, where they were killed — San Saba, Roma.Pyramid of Caius Cestius & Porta San Paolo (275 AD) ... from Mui's stroll to the supermarket — Roma.Terme di Massenzio on Palatine Hill and pinettas ... our view as night starts to fall — Roma.

    Welcome to Roma

    July 27 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    The train was a few minutes early arriving into Firenze … but also a few minutes late departing. From that point on, we traveled backwards all the way to Roma. So much for checking in advance the direction the seats face!

    Our ride was uneventful. Following a route that went through Pisa, we turned south to travel along cities we’re familiar with … Livorno, Tarquinia, Civitaveccia, and a few others. Glimpses of the Tyrrhenian Sea had Mui remembering visiting the beaches on the coast when he was a child.

    Although there were no stops for passengers to detrain once we left Firenze, we did come to a halt at several points to let trains traveling from the other direction pass us. We made up most of the delays caused by these stops along the way. Nonetheless, we were six minutes late arriving into Roma Termini. No biggie.

    Once we detrained, we made our way underground to the metro station at Piazza dei Cinquecento, directly beneath Termini. Mui had read that you can use ApplePay to purchase your fare, so we did not mess with getting tickets. A quick tap with our phones and the gate to the platform opened like magic.

    We arrived at the platform for Line B just as the metro train in the direction of Laurentina pulled alongside. Excellent. Two stops — Cavour and Colosseo — and we got off at the third one … Circo Massimo. Making our way above ground, Mui was now in familiar territory … right in front of FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization), the United Nations agency where his father worked for several years back when Mui was a bambino.

    A short walk across the road and we were at the apartment we rented for our short stay. Convenient for sure.

    The apartment is well situated for our opera night … just a short walk away. We have a nice view of the ruins of Terme di Massenzio on Palatine Hill — baths for the rich, or so I read … situated so that they could watch the chariot races at Circo Massimo while they bathed. Of course, there are pinettas as well … the umbrella trees we associate with Roma.

    The apartment itself is in need of a good dose of TLC … tender loving care. Overall, it looks worn and dated … though the en suite has obviously been renovated in recent years. While I would not say the place is dirty, more attention to detail by the cleaning crew would not have gone amiss. Will it do for three nights? Yes. But I am glad Mui picked up some paper towels and a multipurpose cleaner so I can give things a quick swipe where necessary.

    We stepped out for a quick wander before calling it done for the day. It was rather hot, and there wasn’t much shade. Our outing was a short one. We circled around Circo Massimo and returned to the apartment.

    Next on Mui’s agenda was a quick shopping trip while I got us settled in. But first, he had to wait for a rep from the management company to show up and check out the A/C … which didn’t seem to be cooling things down as it should. Not sure what all the guy did, but we are comfy now … cool without being cold.

    Except for a tour, the opera, and lunch at one of our favorite restaurants, we have no other planned activities on the calendar for the few days we’ll be here. We’ve been to Roma before … spent 3 weeks here, in fact, in 2015 … and a week in 2019. So, this time around, we’ll let the temperatures dictate what we do … or not.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Cappuccino & cornetto ... Dispensa Emilia @ Bologna Centrale.
    2Cappuccino & cornetto ... Dispensa Emilia @ Bologna Centrale.2Mui's like a little boy in a candy shop ... oh wait, he is in a candy shop! — Bologna Centrale.Aboard the Frecciarossa train to Roma Termini — Somewhere in Italy en route to Firenze.

    Frecciarossa to Roma

    July 27 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Yes, we are on the move again.

    But why on earth would we head to Rome now?!? In August of all times!

    It’s the height of tourist season. It’s crowded. It’s hot. And it is going to get swelteringly hot in the days ahead.

    Well, try as we might, the opera company refused to schedule the performance that is the reason for this 3-night trip to a different time of the year. I’m kidding of course. We have no pull with the opera company, so we just had to accept the performance date as scheduled.

    Anyway, we specifically chose a mid-morning train departure from Bologna to coincide with the check-in time for the apartment we reserved through Booking. A relaxing start to our travel day.

    After making sure all the rolling shutters were down, the boiler was turned off, and the electric appliances were all unplugged, we left the apartment around 8:45a. A short walk on a comfortably cool summer morning put us at the Via Farini bus stop … from where we hopped on bus #30 to Bologna Centrale. None of the pay-terminals on the bus were operational, so we got a free ride today … confirmed with the driver just to be sure.

    It was still too early for our train to show on the departures board. We expected that this would be the case, and had planned our morning to give us time to grab a cappuccino & cornetto … this time at Dispensa Emilia. Tummies sated, we stopped in at the OD Store to stock up on Lindt chocolate bars … they have the best prices in Bologna.

    By the time all that was done, our train was listed on the board … with binario 19 showing as the departure platform. We were more or less expecting that we’d be leaving from the underground section of Bologna Centrale. It takes a bit of time to get there … going down elevators and escalators … crossing under the rail tracks. So, we had given ourselves plenty of time to do so.

    The high-speed Frecciarossa train #89123 arrived 15 minutes before the 10:27a scheduled departure. Waiting within the carrozza 5 zone, we had an easy embarkation from the door closest to our seats in row 19.

    An on-time departure from Bologna. And here we are now. Zipping in and out of tunnels, the scenery a blur where we get a chance to see it … on our way to Roma Termini … with a stop in Firenze.

    The train is packed. Some are likely just going to Firenze … others probably staying on until Napoli, where this train terminates. When we booked our tickets, we managed to get two seats that are not part of a booth set-up, so we expect a comfortable trip.

    Now to sit back and enjoy the ride.    Read more