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Adventuring Down Under
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
dec. 2023 – mei 2024

Adventuring Down Under

Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Meer informatie
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  • Adventuring Down Under
    "Dance of Time 11" ... Salvador Dali ... @ the Adelaide Airport — Adelaide, SA.
    Cat Dean's "find the critters" mural ... with all of the wildlife found and named @ Adelaide AirportA good philosophy ... @ the Adelaide Airport — Adelaide, SA.Sunrise @ the Adelaide Airport (with terminal lights reflected) — Adelaide, SA.Our air chariot arrives @ the Adelaide Airport — Adelaide, SA.We catch a glimpse of our hotel as QF1950 taxis to the runway @ the Adelaide Airport.Bye bye Adelaide, SA.Bye bye Adelaide, SA.Rainbow in the clouds — en route to DRW on QF1950.Aerial view of Australia's Red Center — en route to DRW on QF1950.Aerial view of Australia's Red Center — en route to DRW on QF1950.The MacDonnell Range through the clouds — en route to DRW on QF1950.Aerial view of Australia's Red Center — en route to DRW on QF1950.On approach to Darwin ... onboard QF1950.On approach to Darwin ... onboard QF1950.

    ADL to DRW

    11 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    An early flight today from Adelaide in South Australia to Darwin in the Northern Territory.

    Having checked out the security queue at ADL yesterday we knew it was going to be looong. So, we skipped the breakfast included in our room rate and walked to the terminal around 5:30a. Good timing. The queue was long(ish) but moving steadily. That changed pretty quickly for those who piled in behind us.

    The Embraer 190 that would be taking us to Darwin pulled up to the gate at 6:53a. Not a good omen for our 7:35a departure. We were indeed delayed for about 80 minutes … due to an “engineering issue.” Ugh!

    Once onboard, the flight was uneventful. Breakfast was served once the plane leveled off. We flew over varied scenery as we made our way north through the Red Center of Australia. Alas, my porthole was badly scratched … missed a lot of good photo ops … caught a few.

    The cockpit crew made up 20 minutes of the delay and we were only an our late when we landed at DRW.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    View of the Esplanade from our room at the Double Tree — Darwin, NT.
    Mural by Adelaide artist Lisa King ... on Mitchell Street — Darwin, NT.St Mary's Star of the Sea Cathedral — Darwin, NT.Stained glass on cyclonic glass ... by Aboriginal artists — St Mary's Star of the Sea Cathedral.Stained glass on cyclonic glass ... by Aboriginal artists — St Mary's Star of the Sea Cathedral.This window commemorates the Darwin bombing victims of 1942 ... St Mary's Star of the Sea Cathedral.St Mary's Star of the Sea Cathedral — Darwin, NT.Commemorating USA's assistance in the defense of Australia — St Mary's Star of the Sea.

    Darwin: Pre-Expedition

    11 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    After collecting our bags at DRW, we hopped in an Uber for the ride to the Double Tree by Hilton on the Darwin Esplanade … the same hotel where we stayed prior to our rail journey on the Ghan earlier this month.

    Once we were settled in the room, we went down for a light lunch poolside. Now that “The Wet” is over, the humidity wasn’t as bad as we’ve experienced on previous visits to Darwin. Definitely comfortable enough to sit in the shade.

    After lunch, Mui went out to run errands. I used the time to update my journal. When he returned to the hotel, we used the guest laundry to wash a few things. By 5:00p, our chores done, it was time to head out for a birthday dinner at Shenanigans … with a slight detour when we came across St Mary’s Star of the Sea Cathedral and I spotted some stained glass windows to photograph.

    This St Mary’s is the second one in Darwin. The first one was severely damaged during the WWII bombing of the city in February 1942. Mass was being said when we arrived, so we took a seat in a back pew and waited for the service to be over. The stained glass windows were worth the wait. We even spotted two small tributes to the US War Office and the US Air Force for assisting in the defense of Australia during WWII.

    Dinner itself at Shenanigans was good. But the music level from the live band was an abomination. So loud that we could barely hear ourselves speak even though we were on the far side of the patio. How anyone who was close to the band could even stand to sit there is beyond me!    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Sunset on the Esplanade — Darwin, NT.
    Sunset on the Esplanade — Darwin, NT.Sunset on the Esplanade — Darwin, NT.

    Darwin: Top End Birthday Celebration

    11 april 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    After the loud music during dinner at Shenanigans, we needed some peace and quiet. So, we headed to the Esplanade, intending to stroll back to the hotel. The ever-changing sunset colors slowed our steps.

    Mother Nature’s celebration of my special day!

    Tomorrow we head off on our Kimberleys Expedition!    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Another mini-adventure ... from Darwin to Broome via the Kimberleys.

    Darwin: Coral Expeditions … Kimberleys

    12 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Embarking the 70-pax Coral Discoverer for our expedition trip to the Kimberleys in far northwestern Australia. We will be traveling from Darwin to Broome.

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    1The Kimberleys — Western Australia.
    Welcome to the Coral Discoverer ... Fort Hill Wharf — Darwin, NT.Fort Hill Wharf from aboard Coral Discoverer — Darwin, NT.B21 — our cabin — is on the Promenade Deck — Coral Discoverer.On the bow of Coral Discoverer — Darwin, NT.Bridge Deck Lounge/Lecture Salon ... Coral Discoverer.Library area in the Bridge Deck Lounge — Coral Discoverer.Bridge Deck aft — Coral Discoverer.Sundeck bar — Coral Discoverer.Sundeck forward — Coral Discoverer.Main Deck aft ... outside the dining room — Coral DiscovererDining Room — Coral Discoverer.The Xplorer ... for off-ship outings — Coral Discoverer.Moving from Fort Hill Wharf to our anchorage in Darwin Harbour, NT.Panorama of the Darwin skyline.A map on the big screen in the Bridge Deck Lounge shows our position — Coral Discoverer.Our escort has done his job — Darwin Harbour.Slide from our Top End/Kimberleys briefing — Coral Discoverer.Captain's Welcome Cocktail Party — Coral Discoverer.Captain's Welcome Cocktail Party — Coral Discoverer.Sunset as we cruise the Timor Sea — Coral Discoverer.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 1

    12 april 2024, Timor Sea ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    What is The Kimberleys?

    It is the region in the far northwest corner of Australia … often described as the Earth’s last true wilderness area. It is the part of Western Australia that has rock formations that date back billions of years. It is an area of stunning natural landscapes … ancient Aboriginal rock art … wildlife … and more. It is one of the parts of Australia that had the earliest settlements … with the first humans going back some 65,000 years.

    We will get to experience a tiny piece of all this during our 10-day expedition. And it all started with boarding our expedition vessel — Coral Discoverer — around 8:00a at Darwin’s Fort Hill Wharf.

    Once onboard, we were directed to the dining room where tea/coffee/scones were set up. We were then invited to check-in to our cabin. B21 — our cabin — was easy to find. Go up one set of stairs to the Promenade Deck and walk all the way to the aft. The cabin is comfortable … if basic. We are next to the access door to the aft promenade deck, which I expect we’ll be making good use of to get around the ship.

    Due to an issue with one of the cranes used to load/unload the zodiacs, we were not on the move until 10:00a. Even then, Coral Discoverer just sailed out to an anchorage in Darwin Harbour to continue the repair work. The good news? The delayed departure won’t impact tomorrow’s plans … except for flip-flopping activities ... lectures in the morning; off-ship exploration in the afternoon.

    As has been our experience on other expeditions, our day was a busy one … settling into the cabin; exploring the public decks to acquaint ourselves with the vessel’s layout; taking advantage of the open bridge policy for a visit and chat with the Duty Officer; attending the muster drill and the mandatory safety briefing … followed by the expedition briefing by Katie, our Expedition Leader (EL). And that was all before lunch.

    By the time lunch was over, Coral Discoverer was on its way for real, heading out to the Timor Sea.

    After a break of about an hour, the afternoon activities picked up … a helicopter briefing for those wanting to book the optional outing to Mitchell Falls (we’re taking a pass … don’t want to risk triggering my vertigo); an introductory lecture about the Top End and The Kimberleys. And then it was time for Captain Josh’s Welcome Drinks … followed by dinner. But wait. We weren’t done for the day. After our meal, The Kimberley episode from the BBC Coast series was screened in the Bridge Deck Lounge. A good way to wrap up the first day of the expedition.

    Time to turn in for the night. We’ve been told that the forecast is looking good for our trip and Coral Discoverer should not be dancing much as we make our way from the Timor Sea to the Indian Ocean.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Sunrise ... Joeseph Bonaparte Gulf — Kimberleys, WA.
    A chance to relax with a cooling breeze — Kimberleys, WA.Captain Peter at the helm ... Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Slides from Anne O'Dea's Lecture ... Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Slide from Anne O'Dea's Lecture ... Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Slide from Anne O'Dea's Lecture ... Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Slide from Anne O'Dea's Lecture ... Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Welcome to Koolama Bay — Kimberley, WA.Zodiac being lowered for this afternoon's off-ship experience — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 2 (Morning)

    13 april 2024, Timor Sea ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    We had an unusual start to our day … an uncommon occurrence on an expedition!

    We got to sleep in this morning as breakfast was at 8:00a! All because the schedule was turned on its head due to the delay leaving Darwin yesterday. When I rolled out of bed around 7:00a, Coral Discoverer was still sailing through the Joeseph Bonaparte Gulf … heading towards Koolama Bay for today’s off-ship Xplorer activity at King George River.

    After breakfast, we went on a tour of the bridge. Well, tour is a bit of an exaggeration, since the bridge on this 70-pax vessel is quite small. But our group of 10 squeezed into the space and Captain Josh explained about the instrumentation while Captain Peter, who will be taking over for the next expedition leaving from Darwin, was manning the helm as part of his familiarization training in these waters.

    Next up, Anne gave a lecture entitled “The Making of The Kimberley’s Coastal Sculptures.”
    She made use of a multi-layered sandwich to demonstrate how the rocks were shaped by the movement of the tectonic plates … the bread slices representing the hard rocks and the peanut butter and Vegemite representing the softer rocks. Her lecture also briefly delved into the Aboriginal creation ancestors — The Wandjina. We hope to see some of the art she showed us later during this expedition.

    I actually think it was good that today’s schedule was flip-flopped … moving the lecture to the morning. This allowed us to get a better grasp of the formation of the landscape we would be exploring this afternoon. And it underscored that we are in a region with some of the oldest rocks on earth … dating back some 1.8 BILLION YEARS … a number that is hard for me to wrap my head around.

    By the time we were finished with lunch, it was time for us to prep for our afternoon outing.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    The Xplorer is the boat that will be taking us on off-ship excursions.
    Coral Discoverer and one of the two zodiacs accompanying us on our outing.Layered rocks on our way to King George River — Koolama Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Mouth of the King George River from Koolama Bay — Kimberley, WA.Layered rocks at the mouth of King George River — Koolama Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Oomari Falls (aka King George Falls) — Kimberley, WA.2Oomari Falls (aka King George Falls) — Kimberley, WA.1Zodiac heading under the Oomari Falls (aka King George Falls) — Kimberley, WA.Looking downriver from Oomari Falls (aka King George Falls) — Kimberley, WA.The zodiac provides perspective for the cliffs at Oomari Falls (aka King George Falls) — Kimberley.Tofani weathering ... honeycombed rocks @ Oomari Falls — Kimberley, WA.Closer look at the rocks along King George River — Kimberley, WA.This naturally formed foam gets its color from dissolved organic matter — King George River.Closer look at the rocks along King George River — Kimberley, WA.Closer look at the rocks along King George River — Kimberley, WA.Osprey & Brahminy Kite photos ... courtesy of our expedition team members — King George River.Reflection on the river — King George River ... Kimberley, WA.Closer look at the rocks along King George River — Kimberley, WA.Closer look at the rocks along King George River — Kimberley, WA.Closer look at the rocks along King George River — Kimberley, WA.Afternoon drinks on the Sundeck ... Coral Discoverer — Koolama Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Sunset ... Koolama Bay — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 2 (Afternoon)

    13 april 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌬 91 °F

    After lunch, we went off on our first Xplorer cruise.

    The Xplorer is an aluminum boat that is like a mini military landing craft. It has a shallow draft and can get into reasonably shallow waters after the outboard engines are pulled up. A small gangway folds down from the squared off bow for easy disembarkation from the boat. No disembarkation today, however, as this outing was a scenic cruise, with an opportunity to get wet by transferring to the zodiacs that accompanied us.

    Coral Discoverer has one Xplorer, which is carried on a platform on the stern of the ship. There is an ingenious winching system that raises and lowers the boat from the Main Deck, where passengers board, to the water level.

    (I’m not sure I mentioned that there are only 44 paying-guests on the Discoverer on this expedition, so we’re able to spread out on the Xplorer more than usual.)

    We had a fairly long ride through Koolama Bay to the mouth of King George River — which is hidden from view until you are right in front of it. As a result, the river remained unseen by early seafaring explorers who came to Australia. Though Aboriginal people knew about the river, it wasn’t until 1911 that the white man first recorded this feature of The Kimberleys.

    On our way to the river, we made a few stops for Anne and Steve, our guest lecturers, to speak to us about what we were seeing. In Anne’s case, she pointed some of the geology that makes the area special. In Steve’s case, he told us about the Koolama Incident, which involved the WWII bombing of a ship by that name … by Japanese zeros. The expedition team as a group pointed out interesting birdlife along the way … osprey, Brahminy kite, eastern reef egret; crested tern.

    Once at the mouth of the King George River — named in honor of the coronation of King George V — we cruised into what is essentially a gorge with towering red sandstone cliffs stained black by algae. Known as the Warton Sandstone, this layer is some of the oldest rocks on earth … dating back some 1.8 billion years. Precariously perched rocks and weathering of the cliff face added additional interest to the layered rocks. As did colorful honeycombed rocks known as tafoni.

    The highlight of our outing was Oomari Falls … often referred to as King George Falls. The twin falls are located at the head of the river. Like the mouth of the river, the falls remain hidden from view until you are practically upon them. You can hear them well before you can see them.

    An amazing sight … especially this time of the year when the water flow is high following the recently ended wet season. In fact, our cruise to the Kimberleys is the first of the season because this is not an area that can be explored “pleasantly” prior to the end of The Wet.

    Those who wanted to feel the power of the falls up close and personal were invited to transfer to zodiacs for a ride into the cataracts. We were happy to cool off with the mist carried on the air.

    An excellent first look at the hidden landscape treasures of the Kimberleys.

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer, we had ½ hour to rest before we were “invited” to the Sundeck Bar for drinks. And then it was time for dinner and a movie … the latter, a documentary entitled “Malice or Mutiny” … telling the story of the Koolama Incident Steve had told us about. (Too long to share it here, but if interested, you can read about it at this link … https://museum.wa.gov.au/maritime-archaeology-d….)

    Early call tomorrow … time to rest up.    Meer informatie

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    Sunrise ... Vansittart Bay — Kimberley, WA.
    Our landing beach on Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Hike briefing before our group is split into two ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.1Gwion Gwion rock painting ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Comparison ... lower photo processed with a Rock Art Enhancer app — Jar Island.Gwion Gwion rock painting ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Steve discussing Gwion Gwion rock painting ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.St Andrews Cross Spider ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Gwion Gwion rock painting ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Echidna ... Gwion Gwion rock painting ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Gwion Gwion rock painting ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Mui enjoying the shade... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Trichosanthes cucumerina ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Xplorer with bow gangway deployed for easy embarkation ... Jar Island — Kimberley, WA.Jar Island Cruise on the Xplorer — Kimberley, WA.Toad Rock (?) ... Jar Island Cruise on the Xplorer — Kimberley, WA.Dragon Rock (?) ... Jar Island Cruise on the Xplorer — Kimberley, WA.Jar Island Cruise on the Xplorer — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 3 (Morning)

    14 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Today we had our first experience with Aboriginal Rock Art … estimated to be around 10,000 to 20,000 years old!

    After breakfast, we gathered up our stuff and headed off on the Xplorer for a landing on Jar Island … in Vansittart Bay. The Island was so named in 1819 for Macassan pottery shards that were found here. Nowadays it is best known for the three easily accessible Gwion Gwion (sometimes spelled Giyorn Giyorn) rock art sites.

    Gwion Gwion (aka Bradshaw) rock paintings are one of the two traditions of the Kimberleys. The paintings have been categorized into two styles. These are not the earliest Aboriginal paintings … hope to see some of those at other sites.

    We were told there was the possibility that this would be a wet landing so we went prepared for that. As it turns out, the tide was out so the gangway was deployed onto the beach and we didn’t have to get our feet wet. Hiking across the sand, we followed a narrow path through the grass … some of it prickly.

    Following eroded rock plates, we eventually came to an area where we were split into two groups … one set doing the easy and hard walks; the other set doing the moderate walk. And then we swapped places. Mui and I opted to do the easy-hard first.

    True, we had to clamber over rocks and squeeze through some narrow paths between boulders on the way to the “art gallery.” And once we got there, we had to lie down on rocks and squirm around a bit to see some of the art painted on the bottom of protected ledges. Nonetheless, I’d be hard pressed to consider the hike a “hard” one.

    After swapping places with the other group, we trekked to the moderate site, which, by far had some of the best rock art … though some of them were particularly hard to photograph.

    We wrapped up the outing with a cruise around Jar Island, checking out some of the interesting formations and using our imagination to find dragons and toads.    Meer informatie

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    Walking along the beach to the salt pans ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.
    Van Sittart Bay view with the Xplorer and Coral Discoverer ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Tide coming back into the salt pans ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Heading down the dune to the salt pans ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.The salt pans ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Walking across the salt pans ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Walking across the salt pans ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.The DC-53 Sky Trooper wreck. ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.The DC-53 Sky Trooper wreck. ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.The DC-53 Sky Trooper wreck. ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.The DC-53 Sky Trooper wreck. ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.The DC-53 Sky Trooper wreck. ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Boab tree near the DC-53 Sky Trooper wreck. ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.African black beetle ... invasive species ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Scarlet Percher Dragonfly ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Feral cattle ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Elegant fiddler and hermit crabs — Anjo Peninsula ... Kimberleys, WA.Hiking out the long way around ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Beach stone curlew ... Anjo Peninsula — Kimberleys, WA.Dried up fan coral — Anjo Peninsula ... Kimberleys, WA.Coral Discoverer awaiting the Xplorer with the landing pad down — Vansittart Bay, Kimberleys.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 3 (Afternoon)

    14 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer for lunch, we didn’t have much time to relax before we found ourselves back in the Xplorer.

    Our destination this time was the wreck of a C-53 Sky Trooper on the Anjo Peninsula. The aircraft, which crash landed here in 1942, is the cargo version of the DC3 aircraft.

    Once again, we were told to prepare for a wet landing, but got a dry one right onto the beach. We arrived as the tide was just coming in across the salt pans beyond the small dune we had to negotiate. This was a boon because we didn’t have to make the long trek across the white-sand beach that was reflecting the sun right back at us to go around the salt pans. Instead, we crossed to the woodlands, walking through ankle-deep water … stopping to check out the hermit crabs where the land was still dry.

    On reaching the site of the wreck, the expedition team held everyone back so we could all get people-free photos of the site. Steve then gathered us in a semicircle around the edge of the wreck and told us about the wreckage and how it got to be here.

    The story goes that there was no navigator onboard the C-53 and the aircraft lost its way in bad weather. Running out of fuel, the young pilot — an American — was forced to make an emergency landing in the savanna woodlands that cover most of the area. The story ends well. All onboard survived and they were rescued a few days later by a Qantas flying boat.

    We were next split into two groups … one exploring the wreck site; the other walking off to look for birds. When we swapped places, we didn’t see any birds, but the melodious song of the butcher bird sounded periodically. Nor did we glimpse the agile wallaby the other group saw. We did spot a feral cattle sitting in the shade, and a ton more hermit crabs.

    By the time we were ready to cross the salt pans again, they were covered with water too deep to wade through. So, we had to trek through the bush in a wide circle to get back to the beach … part of the walk through prickly grasses that made us happy that we had opted for long pants despite the heat.

    On returning to the vessel, we had a short respite before it was time for Steve’s presentation, “Jewels of the Top End” … a talk about the flora and fauna of the Kimberleys. Any other time, I would have been front row-center, but the hot and humid hike this afternoon was just too draining. In fact, not only did we skip the lecture, we skipped drinks on the Sundeck and the documentary after dinner.    Meer informatie

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    Sunrise in Wollaston Bay — Kimberley, WA.
    Sunrise in Wollaston Bay — Kimberley, WA.Coral Discoverer with our cabin annotated — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Helicopter on the landing beach where we dropped off the excursionists — Wollaston Bay ... KimberleySara captures the Xplorer and Coral Discoverer from the helicopter — Kimberley, WA.Hart Dolerite intrusion — Montague Sound ... Kimberley, WA.Scenic cruising in Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Scenic Cruising ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Scenic cruising & ancient palms of Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Closer look at an ancient palm ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Osprey pair ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Osprey pair ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Scenic cruising ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Mangroves ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Scenic cruising ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Scenic cruising ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Eastern reef egret ... Montague Sound — Kimberley, WA.Engine room tour — Coral Discoverer.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 4 (Morning)

    15 april 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Breakfast time has been getting earlier and earlier.

    We have moved from 8:00a to 7:30a to 7:00a over the past few days. The early breakfast today was driven by the helicopter excursion to Mitchell Falls … an optional outing that we decided to skip because we’re still babying my recent vertigo episode.

    While those who signed up for the falls were transferred out in groups of eight, the rest of us went for a cruise on the Xplorer. We motored around the islands of Montague Sound and went into Hathaway’s Bay. There were interesting rock formations to see, including a Hart Dolerite intrusion through Wunaamin Miliwundi. Despite’s Anne’s lecture, the geology is still Greek to us. Though, in this instance, the chocolate colored dolerite was clearly different from the cream and red bands of rock that dominate the area.

    Along the way, we stopped to check out ancient palms that are endemic to the Kimberleys. We also spotted sooty oystercatchers, a pair of ospreys on a nest, and at least one eastern reef egret. As we followed the coastline, Anne pointed out middens that are evidence of the long occupation of the area by the ancient inhabitants of the land. We wrapped up the outing with a slow cruise along the mangroves, looking for crocs. No luck alas.

    We returned to the Coral Discoverer a little after 9:30a … had a bit of time to rest up and grab a cup of tea. And then it was time for the engine room tour, led by Sam, the Second Engineer. He told us a bit about what we would be seeing in the engine room while we were still in the dining room where our group met. The briefing was essential since the engine room is very noisy and we’d be wearing ear protectors in there. He also warned us that even with only one engine running while we are at anchor, it would be hot … 38-39C. Whew!

    After checking out the engine room, we went into the mechanical room where the A/C; water making system; and black and grey tank systems are located … amongst a whole bunch of other machinery. I found the intake vent bringing air in from the outside and enjoyed the cooler air as Sam answered questions here since it was slightly quieter in this room.

    With our engine tour over by 11:00, I went upstairs to the Sun Deck to do some writing and enjoy the slight breeze.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Inviting water and beach ... crocs & sharks make it dangerous ... no swimming.
    Aerial view of the beach taken from the helicopter by Sara — Kimberley, WA.Landing beach for the Wandjina rock art hike — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Shells on the landing beach for the Wandjina rock art hike — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Landing beach for the Wandjina rock art hike — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Hiking through vegetation to reach the Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Wandjina figure at the rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Sea turtle ?? ... Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Thylacine and other art at the Wandjina rock art site — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Assassin Bug — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Coming back down to the landing beach — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Coming back down to the landing beach — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Waiting in the shade — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Wollaston Bay cruise ... Kimberley, WA.Gwion Gwion rock art on a high ledge — Wollaston Bay ... Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 4 (Afternoon)

    15 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Lunch today was at 12:30p. And then we had about 30 minutes before we set off on our afternoon outing.

    A 20-minute, high-speed ride on the Xplorer took us from the Coral Discoverer to an island in Wollaston Bay to see some more ancient rock art … this time newer Wandjina art … estimated to date back some 4,000 years.

    Wandjina is a powerful Rain Maker spirit. Dreamtime images painted in rock galleries and caves can be found throughout the Kimberleys. Often painted in red and white ochre, these figures have significant cultural and spiritual importance to the Aboriginal people. In fact, the paintings are repainted periodically — by Aboriginal men authorized to do so — in order to keep the art fresh. The figure we saw today has not been painted in quite some time.

    The landing had the possibility of being wet, but the gangway managed to reach the beach, so once again we did not get wet. The climb to get to the rock art site was described as moderate. More of a rock scramble to start out. Expedition team members lined up along the boulders to assist with monkey grips.

    From the staging area, we followed a flat, sandy path through waist- to shoulder-high vegetation. The site itself was breathtaking, the more complex art quite vivid in places. Some of it was on the side of a cliff, protected by a ledge; others required hunching over quite a bit to enter a cave and lay down on our backs to view the ones on the ceiling. Anne pointed out one painting that she thought was of a thylacine … the Tasmanian tiger that has gone extinct ages ago. The similarity to photos we’ve seen of the animal was quite uncanny.

    When we returned to the landing beach, the idea was to do some beach combing. It was too hot to do so, however. Most of us lined up near the rocks, seeking respite in the narrow strip of shade we found there, guzzling water as fast as we could.

    So, Katie called the Xplorer to pick us up early and took us for a scenic drive through the mangroves, looking for birds and crocodiles. Found neither. Though we did catch a glimpse of some Gwion Gwion figures painted on a ledge high up on a rock wall.

    By 4:15p, we were back on Coral Discoverer for a bit of a break before our evening outing to a beach nearby.    Meer informatie

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    Veranda Beach ... set up for sundowners — Kimberley, WA.
    Bubbly welcome to Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.One of the two white-bellied sea eagles checking us out — Veranda Beach, Kimberley.White-bellied sea eagle ... Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Some of what we found beach combing on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sundowners on Veranda Beach — Kimberley, WA.Sunset ... from Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Sunset ... from Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 4 (Sundowners)

    15 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    After a day of exploration and crawling around a rock art gallery, it was time for a bit of fun on the beach. No swimming … there are crocs and sharks in these waters. Instead, we were invited to go ashore for sundowners … drinks & snacks & a colorful sunset.

    At 5:30p, we set off in the Xplorer. With the Coral Discoverer at anchor right across from Veranda Beach, the ride was very short.

    The crew had set up chairs in three rows … facing the sea for sunset. Drinks and appetizers were set up under a tent. It was a pleasant evening. Mui and I even snuck in a walk to the far end of the beach to do a bit of beach combing.

    We returned to the ship at 7:00p. The post-dinner activity was a movie tonight — Red Dog … sort of Lassie meets Rin Tin Tin, we were told. We skipped it. With another early morning scheduled, we felt it was best to rest up.    Meer informatie

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    Colorful sunrise to start off our day — Kimberley, WA.
    Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Entrance to Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.2Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.1Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.1Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Cathedral Cave on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Next up we head to the beach behind us ... Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Beach combing on Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Animal tracks ... Bigge Island — Kimberley, WA.Croc Rock — Kimberley, WA.Heading back to Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Indigenous art & craft lecture on Coral Discoverer.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 5 (Morning)

    16 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Hot, Hot, Hot!

    No sense belaboring the point, however … it’s not going to cool things off.

    We were up early enough to enjoy the sunrise once again … colorful … and with the addition of frigatebirds soaring on the thermal currents. Anne later said that they were lesser frigatebirds.

    Our first outing today was at 8:30a. It was a two-parter … both on Bigge Island.

    First, we took the Xplorer to a small beach to visit Cathedral Cave … accessible only during a very small tidal window. It was obvious the tide had only recently gone out as our steps sank deep once we disembarked onto the beach. The cave is a stunning natural amphitheater carved out of the sandstone by thousands of years of wave erosion.

    Hopping in the Xplorer again, we next crossed the cove to another beach for a bit of beach-combing. We were hoping to see some animals. Alas only caught glimpses of quoll, monjon, and croc prints in the sand.

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer mid-morning, we had just enough time to freshen up before heading to the Bridge Deck Lounge for Anne’s lecture about Indigenous art and craft.    Meer informatie

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    Landing beach for our visit to another rock art gallery — Bigge Island, Kimberley.
    Crested Terns — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Crested Terns — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Rock formation near the Wandjina rock art gallery — Bigge Island, Kimberley.The Wandjina rock art gallery is inside these small caves — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Taking turns going into rock art gallery inside these small caves — Bigge Island, Kimberley.3Wandjina rock art — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Wandjina rock art — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Parts of the rock art gallery are a squeeze — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Contact art representing the arrival of non-Aboriginal people by boat — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Hand stencil rock art — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Wandjina rock art — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Wandjina rock art — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Wandjina rock art — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Rock formation near the rock art gallery — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Bigge Island shoreline formation from the Xplorer — Kimberley, WA.Wedge-tailed eagle — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Wedge-tailed eagle and Osprey on Bigge Island — Kimberley.Reef egret — Bigge Island, Kimberley.Slides from Steve's lecture on crocodiles — Kimberley, WA.Interesting cloud formations at sunset — Kimberley, WA.2Sunset — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 5 (Afternoon)

    16 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    After lunch, we hopped in the Xplorer to visit a rock art gallery on Bigge Island.

    But before seeing the art, we stood around some big indentations in the sand, which Steve explained were marine turtle nests … most empty, but a couple of others obviously active because they had been covered up.

    The art we saw was of the Kaiara Sea Wandjina who came from the northwest … out of the clouds and sky. They are the creators and fertility spirits. This rock art continues to be fascinating. There were also some hand-stencil art, and what are thought to be Asian and European contact art … from when the Aboriginals encountered others from around the world.

    The outing included beach combing and a walk along the top of an escarpment. But some of us opted to go back to the Xplorer instead as the broiling heat was really not conducive to either activity.

    Corey, our Xplorer driver today, offered to return us to the Coral Discoverer. But we were all happy to just float and enjoy the shade and the breeze. So, he took us on a slow cruise instead, which yielded encounters with an osprey; a reef egret; and a wedge-tailed eagle.

    The original plan called for a 4:00p return to the ship. Since we were aboard by 3:30p, Steve gave his “Croc” presentation this afternoon … very timely as we will be looking for crocodiles tomorrow. One of the takeaways was the comparison of the bite force in pounds per inch of the top ten animals … the top three being the American alligator (2,125 psi); salt water crocodile (3,700 psi); and the Nile crocodile (5,000 psi). By the way … the human bite is just 162 psi!

    Another colorful sunset and a delicious dinner wrapped up our day … the halfway point of our expedition.    Meer informatie

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    It's pitch dark when we leave the Coral Disoverer for our sunrise cruise — Kimberley, WA.
    Sunrise cruise — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.2Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Apple and kapok mangroves ... sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise cruise — Prince Fredrick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Birdlife ... photos by Anne and Steve — Kimberley, WA.View from our cabin onboard Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 6 (Sunrise)

    17 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    A very early but spectacular start to the day!

    After a “tide-you-over-for-now” continental breakfast, we were off in the Xplorer at 6:30a for a sunrise cruise that took us from Prince Fredrick Harbour into Hunter River.

    It was lovely … with cool temps. And amazing color. One of the interesting things was the difference in the colors looking east versus west.

    The apple and kapok mangroves silhouetted against the orange hued sky made for some spectacular photos. I expected the escarpments around us to glow with the rising of the sun. The color indeed deepened to a reddish-orange, but the glow was missing. Beautiful and special nonetheless.

    We returned to Coral Discoverer around 7:30a to find the usual sit-down breakfast awaiting us hungry explorers.    Meer informatie

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    View as we make our way to Porosus Creek — Kimberley, WA.
    Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Mangroves ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Mudskipper ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Chestnut rail ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.White-breasted Woodswallow ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Heading off on the zodiac ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Xplorer from the zodiac as we depart ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus Porosus ... estuarine crocodile ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus Porosus ... estuarine crocodile ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus Porosus ... estuarine crocodile ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Brahminy Kite ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.Brahminy Kite ... Porosus Creek Cruise — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 6 (Morning)

    17 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    After breakfast, we went off in the Xplorer again … this time up the Porosus Creek. We were accompanied by the two zodiacs that later took us on 20-minute rides for a closer glimpse of the mudskippers and flame fiddler crabs. The bonus was a couple of Brahminy kites.

    We had our best wildlife sightings from the Xplorer, however. First was a chestnut rail … which Guest Lecturer Anne described as being a “lifer species” as they are very shy and very difficult to see. Another sighting was an eagle ray. We’ve seen a couple of them flying out of the water — something they apparently do to get rid of the little fish that “clean” them — but this one was close enough to see the spots.

    The primary target of this cruise on the Porosus Creek was Crocodylus Porosus … a species of salties (aka estuarine or salt water crocodiles) found in these waters. They are the largest living reptile and the largest terrestrial predator in the world … with at least one male recorded at a little over 23 feet.

    Although we’d been hearing frequent warnings about the Kimberley waters being home to crocodiles — and thus dangerous to swim — we had yet to see any. That changed today. We saw two of them … a small one about 5 feet long and an adult that was twice as long. Male or female? No idea. Both were swimming, so we have yet to see these critters sunning themselves. And likely will not do so as the water is still warm enough that the crocs don’t feel the need to leave their domain to warm up.

    A delightful cruise with beautiful scenery and plenty of wildlife sightings.    Meer informatie

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    Our landing beach on Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.
    Wandjina Aboriginal rock art ... Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.Wandjina Aboriginal rock art ... Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.The cave I crawled thru is at the back of the slit in the rock ... Wandjina Island — KimberleyWhat goes in must come out ... Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.Natural skylight ... Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.Osprey on the nest ... Wandjina Island — Kimberley, WA.Barbecue dinner on the sundeck ... aboard Coral Discoverer ... Prince Frederick Harbour— Kimberley.Sunset ... Prince Frederick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunset ... Prince Frederick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.Sunset ... Prince Frederick Harbour — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 6 (Afternoon)

    17 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Following our Porosus Creek cruise, we had a short bit of time to relax and have lunch aboard the Coral Discoverer. Then, we were off again … this time for a landing on Wandjina Island.

    It was once again a very hot afternoon on a beach with very little shade.

    This was our last chance to see Aboriginal rock art. We were told that there were two galleries … one an easy walk a short ways up from the beach; the other one further up and requiring a rock scramble. As it turns out, no one could find the trail to the second site — overgrown and hidden by the wet season growth — so we had a shorter outing.

    The two figures at the easy site were painted under a ledge. The team put down towels as we had to lie down to see the figures. Only two people at a time. The rest of us squeezed in along the cliff where there was a sliver of shade and waited our turn.

    From the gallery, we walked to the other side of the beach. Finding the small cave that we were told led to a gorge, I decided to check it out. Had to scramble through on my hands and knees. Once I got through, there was no apparent trail, so I turned right back around.

    As we did yesterday, rather than wait around on the hot beach, some of us returned to the Xplorer, which was called back from where it was waiting offshore. There were more people today than yesterday who joined us in the shade … and refreshing breeze. After the remaining passengers boarded the Xplorer, we took a short cruise around the island, looking for critters … an osprey sitting on a huge nest was our reward.

    Almost immediately after we returned to the Discoverer, the announcement was made for Steve’s presentation on “Phillip Parker Who?” He is apparently one of Australia’s best but least known explorers. We skipped it … too drained to sit through a presentation … rested up instead. I’ll look him up on the web.

    Dinner tonight was a barbecue on the sundeck. A fun al fresco meal … with sunset adding color to the sky as the evening progressed. That we’ve had some exceptional sunrises and sunsets has been an unexpected bonus of this expedition.

    Tonight was game night up in the bridge deck lounge. With a 6:30a breakfast looming ahead for tomorrow, we opted out.    Meer informatie

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    Sunrise in St Georges Basin — Kimberley, WA.
    Sunrise in St Georges Basin — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise in St Georges Basin — Kimberley, WA.King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.Rainbow in the cascade ... King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.Tea time @ King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.King Cascade ... Prince Regent River — Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus porosus (estuarine crocodile) — Prince Regent River ... Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus porosus (estuarine crocodile) — Prince Regent River ... Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus porosus (estuarine crocodile) — Prince Regent River ... Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus porosus (estuarine crocodile) — Prince Regent River ... Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus porosus (estuarine crocodile) — Prince Regent River ... Kimberley, WA.Crocodylus porosus (estuarine crocodile) — Prince Regent River ... Kimberley, WA.Snubfin dolphins ... St Georges Basin — Kimberley, WA.Coral Discoverer ... St Georges Basin — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 7 (Morning)

    18 april 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌬 88 °F

    Early start to our day once more … though not as early as yesterday. Breakfast was at 6:30a and we left on the Xplorer at 7:30a.

    Our destination today was a ways up the Prince Regent River … a body of water that is 2 km wide at the mouth. The river follows an ancient fault-aligned valley that was flooded with sea water when the sea level rose after the end of the last ice age. As a result, unlike most rivers, it does not meander. Rather, it flows straight as an arrow from its headwaters … some 60+ miles.

    We did indeed cruise much of the way in a straight line. But further up the river, we meandered left and right to avoid the sandbars that shift during the Wet. In fact, we were told that though the river is wide, the navigable channel is quite narrow.

    We made a few stops for Steve and Anne to point out connections to an explorer named Philip Parker King, but aside from that there really wasn’t much to see along the way. Nonetheless, it was a pleasant high-speed cruise … and quite comfortable temperature-wise … even after the sun came broke through the clouds.

    Our destination was Mambulbada — known to the white settlers of yore and most people today as King Cascade … for Phillip Parker King. By the way, he was the one to name the river for the Prince Regent at the time, but unbeknownst to him, the Prince Regent had already been crowned King George IV.

    The cascade, situated in a small cove, was spectacular. Not a single waterfall, but several smaller ones plunging over terraced rocks. We were able to get into the plunge basin and take our photos. And then we were served tea/coffee and muffins. The carrot cake muffin, topped with a generous amount of cream cheese frosting, was especially delicious.

    Once Sara arrived with our safety zodiac, the Xplorer nosed up to one of the smaller cascades. The front gangway was lowered onto a rock ledge and those who wanted to stepped out for a chilly shower. We didn’t partake of this activity, but our feet did get wet from the water flowing inside from the gangway. And there was plenty of mist swirling in the air to keep us “glistening.”

    We were zooming back down the river to where Coral Discoverer was waiting for us in the St Georges Basin when Sara radioed about a couple of estuarine crocs in a side channel. So, Logan (our Xplorer driver) took us into the mangroves for a look-see.

    The first croc was shy and didn’t stick around for long. But the bigger one — Steve said about 10 feet long if a female; about 12 feet long if a male — was curious and swam up to the Xplorer to check us out for a while before swimming away.

    A thrilling morning adventure … which concluded with a sighting of a pod of snubfin dolphins, a species endemic to Australia, playing near the Coral Discoverer.    Meer informatie

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    Mermaid Tree ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.
    Mermaid Tree ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.Mermaid Tree ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.The back side of the Mermaid Tree has a niche carved out to use as an altar ... Careening Bay.Bowerbird bower ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.Ancient cycads ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.Eagle ray ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.Coastal cruise ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.Coastal cruise ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.Coastal cruise ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.Coastal cruise ... Careening Bay — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 7 (Afternoon)

    18 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 95 °F

    Once we returned from our Prince Regent River cruise, we had about an hour of downtime before lunch. And another hour after lunch while the Coral Discoverer repositioned to Careening Bay. Bridge and engine room tours were conducted during that time, but we had already done both, so R&R was the name of the game for us.

    Careening Bay is part of the Prince Regent Nature Reserve. The bay was so named because Philip Parker King, an Australian explorer, careened his vessel, the HMC Mermaid, here for repairs in 1820 … during his first expedition into the region. [HMC, by the way, stands for His Majesty’s Cutter.)

    Apparently, this is a very popular site for expedition vessels of all sizes. Thus, great care is taken to ensure that ship visits do not overlap. In fact, Coral Discoverer arrived at its anchorage right around 2:30p to find Ponant’s Le Perouse leaving.

    A short ride on the Xplorer took us ashore to see the historic Mermaid Tree, a National Heritage-listed boab. What makes the tree so important is the fact that the crew of the HMC Mermaid carved the ship’s name and the year of their visit on the boab. The tree has since split into two. Thus dividing the carving as well. But the deep inscriptions are still clearly visible.

    We’d been split into two groups for this lading. Mui and I were in the first group going directly to the tree. Then, as the other group made its way to the tree, we took a roundabout trail back to the beach, stopping to search for — and find — not one, but two bowerbird bowers. Apparently the male bowerbird is quite an engineer, building a bachelor pad of sorts to attract females … using scavenged twigs, brightly colored stones, fresh flowers, iridescent insects, and more. There are two “courtyards” as well … for mating displays. Very interesting.

    Back on the beach, we crossed to the far side to check out some vegetation unique to the area. The ancient cycads, we were told, exist on this Carson volcanic basalt site because it has more minerals and nutrients than sandstone, and allows for the growth of different vegetation.

    Our outing was a fairly short one that we concluded with a cruise along the shoreline before returning to Coral Discoverer.    Meer informatie

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    Sunrise ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.
    Sunrise ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Heading to Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Beach morning glory flowers ... Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Remains of a green turtle ... Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Xplorer from Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Raft Point Beach ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Steep Island ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Steep Island sea cave ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Mangrove cruise ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Mangrove cruise ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Mangrove cruise ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Mangrove cruise ... Doubtful Bay — Kimberley, WA.Returning to Coral Discoverer — Doubtful Bay ... Kimberley, WA.Images from Geraldine's presentation.Images from Anne's presentation on Culture & Kinship."

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 8 (Morning)

    19 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    An especially lovely sunrise in Doubtful Bay, where the Coral Discoverer was anchored … followed by breakfast at 7:00a. Then we were off on the Xplorer at 8:00a.

    A walk on Raft Point Beach was first up.The name of the headland comes from recordings by Australian explorers describing how local Worrorra people, using rafts made of Kapok mangrove trunks, rode the treacherous tides 12 nautical miles offshore to Montgomery Reef to gather marine resources before riding the tide back ashore.

    We did a little beach combing, which yielded the remains — mostly the shell — of what Anne identified as an immature green sea turtle; some beach morning glories; seashells galore. The cliffs were colorful and provided some interesting photo ops and a chance to do some clambering on and around them.

    After boarding the Xplorer again, we went for a cruise, stopping at a few different places to check out the views and a sea cave on Steep Island. We wrapped up with a cruise through the mangroves, looking for birds and crocodiles … saw some of the former, but came up empty handed on the latter.

    When we returned to the ship, we had not one but two presentations. The first one was given by Geraldine, a fellow passenger. Her topic was entitled “Geraldine’s Story” … but technically she spoke about an airplane crash in the Kimberley in which her father was involved while evacuating a family fleeing the Japanese onslaught from Singapore. Happy ending with everyone being rescued.

    Anne’s presentation was entitled “Culture & Kinship.” As might be expected, the focus was on the Aboriginal culture. The kinship portion was fascinating and gave us a small insight into the complicated kinship system and skin names … which has existed for thousands of years in the world’s longest living culture.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Montgomery Reef is a natural wonder — Kimberley, WA.
    The zodiacs accompany us to Montgomery Reef — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef is submerged at high tide — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef appears as the tide ebbs — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef appears as the tide ebbs — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef appears as the tide ebbs — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef appears as the tide ebbs — Kimberley, WA.Off to take a closer look at Montgomery Reef at low tide — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef at low tide — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef at low tide — Kimberley, WA.Sea snake at Montgomery Reef — Kimberley, WA.Sea turtle at Montgomery Reef — Kimberley, WA.Sea turtle at Montgomery Reef — Kimberley, WA.Reef shark at Montgomery Reef — Kimberley, WA.Montgomery Reef in action — Kimberley, WA.Wine tasting onboard Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Wine tasting onboard Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Wine tasting onboard Coral Discoverer — Kimberley, WA.Sunset — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 8 (Afternoon)

    19 april 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Our afternoon visit was to Montgomery Reef, which is perched atop a 1,800 million year old Pentecost sandstone and dolomite mesa with an approximately 12,000 year old marine veneer ringed by rhodolith banks. The mesa was submerged some 6,000 years ago when the sea rose to its present level. One of the world’s natural wonders, the 154 square mile reef is the world’s largest “inshore reef.”

    This outing was tide-dependent, so our departure was delayed by an hour to give us a better chance of seeing the reef rise out of the sea as the tide ebbed off it in cataracts.

    Though we went out to the reef in the Xplorer, the zodiacs accompanied us to give us a closer look at the phenomenon. As well as seeing the lagoon empty into the ocean as the reef rose out of the water, we caught glimpses of sea turtles peeping out of the water for a quick breath of air. There were also sharks hunting inside the reef … saw the tips of their fins. Birds — particularly reef egrets — were fairly abundant, but extremely shy. Our best sighting was of a sea snake — its white skin clearly visible against the darker water

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer, we had just enough time to drop off our stuff in the cabin before the announcement came for a wine tasting event in the Bridge Deck Lounge. Josh, the purser, ran the event. We sipped one New Zealand wine … a Sauvignon Blanc; and two reds … one a Pinot Noir from Tasmania and the other a Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia. Each wine was accompanied by a canapé to demonstrate how the right food pairing can impact the experience.

    Dinner was at 6:30p … followed by a romantic comedy set in the Northern Territory … “Top End Wedding.” Ready for some downtime, we skipped it. We’ll see if we can find it on Netflix or You Tube when we get home.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Sunrise in Talbot Bay — Kimberley, WA.
    180-degree panorama of sunrise in Talbot Bay — Kimberley, WA.Morning detour to Horizontal Falls as the tide is coming in — Kimberley, WA.Morning detour to Horizontal Falls as the tide is coming in — Kimberley, WA.Scenery from our Talbot Creek cruise — Kimberley, WA.Scenery from our Talbot Creek cruise — Kimberley, WA.Scenery from our Talbot Creek cruise — Kimberley, WA.Scenery from our Talbot Creek cruise — Kimberley, WA.Scenery from our Talbot Creek cruise — Kimberley, WA.Short-eared rock wallabies ... Talbot Creek cruise — Kimberley, WA.White-quilled rock pigeon ... Talbot Creek cruise — Kimberley, WA.Off to Horizontal Falls — Kimberley, WA.Off to Horizontal Falls — Kimberley, WA.Horizontal Falls — Kimberley, WA.Off to Horizontal Falls — Kimberley, WA.Aerial photo of Horizontal Falls (courtesy of Tourism WA) — Kimberley, WA.

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 9

    20 april 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    Following breakfast at 7:30a, we departed for a scenic cruise on the Xplorer … heading to the upper waterways of Talbot Bay … with a short detour first to Horizontal Falls to see it as the tide was coming in.

    Making our way up Cyclone Creek — aka Talbot Creek — we saw some interesting rock formations. Clearly evident was the bending and folding of the rocks from the collision of the ancient Kimberley block with the Australian mainland. We also saw rock wallabies from a distance … further away than the one we saw hopping on the rocks at lightning speed; and a bird that we were told is rarely seen … the white-quilled rock pigeon. There were a number of them flying around, but one was near a bit of spinifex and posed for us. I’m wondering if it might have been sitting on a nest that was not visible from our vantage point. We wrapped up the outing with some mangrove cruising.

    After lunch, we had some time to relax before it was time to hop into the zodiacs for ride through Horizontal Falls.

    Katie had whispered that around 4:00p would be the best time to go, so that’s what we had signed up for. We set off a bit after the appointed time. The “falls” were more like rapids one might encounter on river rafting. There were lots of whirlpools and eddies that our zodiac driver expertly negotiated. It was interesting and fun, but not the “thrill ride” we were told to expect. Though not an option on our cruise, perhaps seeing Horizontal Falls from the air might afford a more exciting experience.

    Frankly, this wasn’t a “favorite” day for me. Perhaps, introvert that I am, I just need some downtime from being around people all the time.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Sunrise over the Indian Ocean — Kimberley, WA.
    Sunrise over the Indian Ocean — Kimberley, WA.Sunrise over the Indian Ocean — Kimberley, WA.Brown boobies appear in great numbers as we approach the Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.Brown Boobies ... Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.Steve is driving one of the zodiacs today — Lacepede Islands ... Kimberley, WA.Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.On the zodiac inside the lagoon ... Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.Brown boobie ... Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.Brown boobies caught in the act ... Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.Australian pelicans ... Lacepede Islands — Kimberley, WA.With Steve and Jen at the Captain's Farewell Party — Kimberley, WA.One last Kimberley sunset from Coral Discoverer.

    Kimberley Expedition: Final Day

    21 april 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Our final destination of the expedition was the Lacepede Islands. To get there, Coral Discoverer left the protected inland waterways for open waters … a rockin’ and rollin’ kind of transit overnight that lasted well into today. So much so that we wondered if we would be able to even stop at the Lacepedes as planned.

    Our morning on the ship was a quiet one, allowing me some much needed “introvert battery charging time.” There was a trivia session after breakfast, but we skipped it. Using the time, instead, to pack our checked bags for tomorrow’s flights.

    Our Lacepedes outing was scheduled for noon, so lunch was at 11:00a. About half an hour into our meal, Katie announced that we would be delaying a bit to let the wind die down further. The seas had already moderated quite a bit, so we kept our fingers crossed the wind would follow suit. It did.

    Around 12:15p, we got the 15-minute call to present ourselves at the Xplorer. Yay! Expecting that the ride across to the Lacepedes would be a splashy one, the clear plastic window covers had been brought down on the port side of the boat. The good news is that the ride wasn’t very splashy, and once we got to the islands, the covers were rolled back up to give us better viewing.

    The Lacepedes are a series of low-lying islands known for having the world’s largest colony of brown boobies … 18,000 breeding pairs. Other species also nest here, but today it was all about the brown boobies. We’d been seeing them flying about all day, so I was excited to see them onshore. The Xplorer found an opening to get us into the calmer waters of the lagoon and we cruised along the shoreline to see what we could see.

    Once the zodiacs arrived, we then went for a closer look. Unfortunately, with the delayed departure, the tide was already going out and even the zodiacs were having trouble approaching the shoreline. Nonetheless, we got to see quite a bit of the abundant birdlife. In addition to the brown boobies, we saw sooty oystercatchers, terns, gulls, and a small flock of Australian pelicans. The lesser frigatebirds joined the fray in the skies above us, their distinctive shape making it easy to identify them.

    There were critters to see in the water as well … primarily, green sea turtles and a lightning-fast shovelnose ray that came around twice to take a look at us before zooming away.

    Everyone did get a chance to go out in the zodiacs, but our Xplorer driver was keeping a close eye on the depth of the lagoon and was a little antsy. Understandable. If we didn’t manage to get out of the lagoon before the depth became too low for the boat, we’d be stuck until high tide. The good news is that we didn’t — get stuck, that is — and even managed another cruise along the shoreline before finally returning to the Coral Discoverer.

    We were back in time for afternoon tea … to tide us over between lunch and dinner. And then we had the afternoon to relax until it was time for the photo-recap of the expedition. The photos Sara used for the slideshow were all taken by members of the expedition team … a good overview of our 10-day experience. We will be sent a link to download the photos and add them to our own collections.

    The photo-recap led to the Captain’s Farewell Cocktail Party on the open deck aft of the Bridge Lounge. Then downstairs to partake of one last dinner on the ship.

    Tomorrow we disembark Coral Discoverer.

    (With limited zoom reach for bird photos, I mostly took videos during today’s outing. The files are too big to upload here. If interested, here are some links you can use to watch the videos online … (1) from the Xplorer: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Oceania/AUS23-24/KIM…; (2) from the zodiac: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Oceania/AUS23-24/KIM…)    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Distant view of the port from our flight to Perth — Broome, WA.
    Distant view of the port from our flight to Perth — Broome, WA.QF650 being readied to whisk us to Sydney — Perth Airport, WA.Our no-frills room at the Ibis @ SYD — Sydney, NSW.

    BRE to SYD … Broome to Sydney

    22 april 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    The daily program we received last night advised us that breakfast would be at 8:00a today. Coral Discoverer was expected to pick up the pilot while we were having our brekky and would be alongside in Broome by 9:30a. That was ship’s time, of course … still on Northern Territory time. We’d be gaining 1.5 hours as soon as we stepped off the ship. Much better for our 10:55a flight to Perth.

    All went according to plan. We were at the airport by 8:30a local time.

    Broome has a small airport and it was pretty much dead when the transfer bus dropped us off at the terminal … along with Captain Peter and a few others. The counters were not due to open until 9:15a. So, we put our bags in the check-in queue and settled down to wait. Once the staff arrived, dropping off our bags was quick and easy since we’d already checked in online.

    The departure of our QantasLink flight was delayed by 20 minutes or so. That added a bit of stress to our travel day since the 55 minutes we had to make our connecting flight from Perth to Sydney was shrinking with each minute of delay. The good news is that all went well and we made the flight with a bit of time to spare.

    The 4-hour flight to SYD was delayed as well. This one by 10 minutes. Otherwise, it was an uneventful flight, arriving at SYD a few minutes later than our scheduled 8:30p touch down. By the time we got to baggage claim, our checked bags were already on the carousel. After collecting them, we set off for our hotel.

    With a flight to Yulara tomorrow, I opted to book us into the Ibis, one of several budget hotels not too far from the domestic terminal. Since we’d been sitting pretty much all day, we opted to walk the 10-12 minutes it takes to get to the hotel. At check-in, we were assigned to a quiet room on the 6th floor. As might be expected from a budget hotel, our accommodations were of the “no frills” variety. Clean bedding and facilities … that’s all we needed … that’s all we got.

    Now for a good night’s rest before we hop on the flight to Yulara tomorrow.    Meer informatie

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  • Adventuring Down Under
    Uluru ... as JQ660 descends to land at the airport in Yulara.
    2Uluru ... as JQ660 descends to land at the airport in Yulara.5Uluru ... as JQ660 descends to land at the airport in Yulara.

    Yulara: Uluru … The Rock

    23 april 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Another skip-ahead post to let everyone know that all’s well as we continue to count down the final days of our adventures Down Under.

    Following our expedition cruise through The Kimberleys — which was great, I might add — we flew from Broome to Perth to Sydney to Yulara. The latter is the service town for the iconic Uluru … once known as Ayers Rock.

    Our flight path into Yulara afforded us an aerial glimpse of Uluru, whetting our appetite for the up-close and personal exploration we hope to do over the next four days.

    More to come …    Meer informatie

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