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Our Ring Around Ireland
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Our Ring Around Ireland

In 2019, we realized a long-awaited road trip around parts of Ireland. Hopefully, at some point, I’ll have time to flesh out these footprints with the notes from my journal. Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 19, 2019
    Our Ring Around Ireland
    Breakfast @ Tadında Anadolu while we await our flight to İstanbul — ADB Airport ... İzmir, Turkey

    We begin from ADB to IST

    June 19, 2019 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Our long awaited Ireland road trip starts from Turkey where we have been visiting family.

    First up ... getting from İzmir to İstanbul for the connecting flight to Ireland.

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Our flight to Ireland is hidden behind the jetway — Gate F2 @ IST Airport ... İstanbul, Turkey.

    Awaiting TK1977 @ IST

    June 19, 2019 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Our flight from İzmir to İstanbul was uneventful. Landing at the “new” airport in İstanbul, we spent our layover getting acquainted with the facility.

    We’re now at Gate F2, waiting for boarding to be called for the next leg of our travel day.Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Welcome to Ireland — touching down @ DUB Airport... Dublin, Ireland.

    TK1977 Touches Down @ DUB

    June 19, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Though the flight was delayed an hour leaving IST, we made up most of that time in the air. TK1977 touched down at Dublin Airport @ 3:57p Greenwich Mean Time ... just 20 minutes late.

    Once we deplane, we’ll pick up our rental car from Dollar and head out of town. Fingers crossed the rush-hour traffic will cooperate and we will get to our first “sightseeing base” before nightfall.Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Colorful Fanad House ... we're in the last room on the ground floor (right side) — Kilkenny, Ireland

    Arrived in Kilkenny

    June 19, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    It was after 6:00p when we drove off from DUB in our Dollar car rental. It took an hour to get on the M9, but once we did, traffic was smooth sailing. Another hour found us in Kilkenny in County Kilkenny.

    We’ve checked into Fanad House, which will be our base for three nights, giving us two full days to explore Kilkenny and its environs.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    A "we really are here" selfie at Kilkenny Castle Park — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    Kilkenny Castle Park

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Setting off from Fanad House around 9:00a, we cut across the public parklands on the grounds of Kilkenny Castle.

    We’ll be touring the castle this morning.

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    With so many OPW properties, the Heritage Card is sure to pay for itself — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    OPW Heritage Card

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    While we’re in Ireland, we plan to visit a number of places managed by the OPW (Office of Public Works). Most, if not all, charge admission ... which can add up to a considerable chunk of change. The good news? The OPW sells a Heritage Card that is accepted at all of their properties.

    Kilkenny Castle is one of the designated sales points for the card. So, before beginning our castle tour, we purchased our cards ... €30 each (senior rate).

    By using the card to cover the €8pp admission for the castle, we’re now left with €22 each before we break even. We don’t expect that we’ll lose any money on this deal.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Kilkenny Castle dates back to 1195 — Kilkenny, Ireland.
    Kilkenny Castle grounds from the Entrance Hall — Kilkenny, Ireland.Picture Gallery with its hand-painted, pitched roof was my favorite room — Kilkenny, Ireland.Detail from the hand-painted ceiling of the castle's Picture Gallery — Kilkenny, Ireland.Detail from the hand-painted ceiling of the castle's Picture Gallery — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    Touring Kilkenny Castle

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    A symbol of Norman occupation, Kilkenny Castle was built in 1195. Located at a shallow point where the River Nore could be easily forded, the castle was an important part of the city’s defenses.

    With our newly-minted OPW Heritage Cards admitting us to Kilkenny Castle, we opted to self-tour. Doing so, we were ahead of the crowds that started arriving in our wake about ½-hour later.

    Of all the rooms we toured, my favorite was the Picture Gallery. Not necessarily for the art hanging on the walls, but for the hand-painted, pitched ceiling overhead.

    As for the surprise detail that caught my eye. That was in the Library. Reading the signage describing the room, the snippet that attracted my attention was about the carpet. Turns out the pattern was adapted from İzmir motifs. İzmir ... as in my hometown in Turkey.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Kilkenny Coat-of-Arms @ the Thorsel (town hall) — Medieval Mile ... Kilkenny, Ireland.
    Shopping street off Medieval Mile with a colorful umbrella awning — Kilkenny, Ireland.Scones @ a pastry shop on the Medieval Mile — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    A Stroll on the Medieval Mile

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    From Kilkenny Castle, we headed up Medieval Mile, the discovery trail that runs through the city. It connects the castle with St Canice’s Cathedral.

    We didn’t dally long here as most of the buildings seemed to house eateries and shops. It was too early for the former ... we were not interested in the latter.Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Looking down the nave towards the sanctuary of St Mary's Cathedral — Kilkenny, Ireland.
    The sanctuary of St Mary's Cathedral — Kilkenny, Ireland.Stained glass window in St Mary's Cathedral — Kilkenny, Ireland.Mosaic mural depicting the baptism of Jesus ... St Mary's Cathedral — Kilkenny, Ireland.Mosaic wall detail ... St Mary's Cathedral — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    St Mary's Cathedral

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Spotting a sign for St Mary’s Cathedral, we took a detour off the Medieval Mile to check it out.

    This cathedral, the third one to be dedicated to the mother of Jesus, is just outside the old city walls. Early English Gothic in style, it was founded in 1842 ... consecrated in 1857.

    Inside, we found lovely stained glass windows — a definite downfall of mine. I studied them in detail, but actually spent more time looking at and photographing the mosaic murals in the sanctuary. Yeah, another downfall of mine 😄    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    The Dominican Black Abbey was founded in 1225 — Kilkenny, Ireland.
    A modern take on a stained glass window ... Black Abbey — Kilkenny, Ireland.The Rosary window is said to be the largest stained glass window in Ireland — Kilkenny, Ireland.Statue of St Dominic ... damaged during the Cromwellian siege ... Black Abbey — Kilkenny, Ireland.Trinity sculpture from 1264 ... Black Abbey — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    Dominican Black Abbey

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    From St Mary’s Cathedral, we continued our meandering walk and ended up at the Dominican Black Abbey, which was founded in 1225. It’s history was quite tumultuous ... surviving the 1650 siege of Kilkenny by Cromwell ... serving as a courthouse after being seized by the Protestant Queen Elizabeth I ... and finally being restored to worship by the Dominicans after they regained possession in the early 19th century.

    The abbey’s name comes from the term “Black Friars” ... used to describe members of the Dominican Order. Why? Simple really ... because they wore a black cloak over their white habit.

    The two highlights for me ... the modern stained glass window and the Rosary window, which is said to be the biggest stained glass window in Ireland.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    The Round Tower @ St Canice's Cathedral — Kilkenny, Ireland.
    Negotiating narrow, steep stairs to get to the top of the Round Tower — Kilkenny, Ireland.Expansive view from the top of the Round Tower — Kilkenny, Ireland.St Canice's nave (R) and the cemetery from the top of the Round Tower — Kilkenny, Ireland.Peek-a-boo view through the railing ... St Mary's Cathedral & Black Abbey on the left — Round Tower.St Mary's Cathedral from the top of the Round Tower — Kilkenny, Ireland.Cityscape & ruins of the Abbey of St Francis from the Round Tower — Kilkenny, Ireland.Heading back down from the top of the Round Tower ... tight quarters — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    Climbing the Round Tower

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    The nearly 100-foot high Round Tower at St Canice’s is only one of two in Ireland that can still be climbed. So, of course, we climbed it!

    Built in 1111, the tower is the oldest standing structure in Kilkenny. A bell tower — and a status symbol — when it was originally built, it was also used as a lookout tower and as a place to store valuables during sieges.

    We climbed the narrow circular tower, ascending a steep, ladder-like staircase. Along the way, a recording kept checking on us, asking if the climb was going OK. It explained that due to the shallow foundation — just 2-feet deep, the tower leans some 2 feet off-plumb!! The disembodied voice was quick to assure us, however, that the tower ‘should’ remain standing until we reach the top!!! Good to know. But what happens after we reach the top? 🤣

    While the narrow quarters and the steep stairs made us work for our reward, it was well worth expending the effort to see the expansive views from the top.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    St Canice's Cathedral was built in the early 1200s — Kilkenny, Ireland.
    Looking down the nave towards the sanctuary — St Canice's ... Kilkenny, Ireland.The Great East Window behind the altar — St Canice's ... Kilkenny, IrelandCloser look at the Nativity panel in the Great East Window — St Canice's ... Kilkenny, Ireland.The left panel was reproduced as a Christmas stamp, thus traveling around the world — St Canice's.Window by Harry Clarke, Ireland's foremost stained glass artist — St Canice's ... Kilkenny, Ireland.Our first Celtic Cross in Ireland ... the cemetery @ St Canice's — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    St. Canice's ... aka Kilkenny Cathedral

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After climbing the Round Tower, located on the grounds of St Canice’s Cathedral, we used the combo admission ticket to go inside.

    The early 13th century church is in the Gothic style. It was constructed on the grounds of a Celtic Christian monastery that was founded in the 6th century by St Canice ... hence the name by which the Kilkenny Cathedral is known.

    St Canice’s is described as Ireland’s finest medieval cathedral and close. I’ll have to wait and see a few more cathedrals as we travel around Ireland before I can verify that. However, if the stained glass windows are anything to go by, that description just might be accurate.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    We don't mind having the whole place to ourselves — Kernel Bar & Kitchen ... Kilkenny, Ireland.
    A local brew to wash down our food — Kernel Bar & Kitchen ... Kilkenny, Ireland.

    Lunch Time!

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After being a-wander for over six hours, exploring Kilkenny City, it was definitely time for a bite to eat. Odd-hour dining at an off-the-beaten-path place = no crowds. In this case, we had the Kernel Bar & Kitchen to ourselves.

    Our meal was very tasty — fish-sans-chips for Mui ... panini with chips for me. We washed it all down with a local brew ... Sullivan’s.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    The River Nore from the Lady Desart Bridge — Kilkenny, Ireland.
    River Nore & Kilkenny Castle from John's Bridge — Kilkenny, Ireland.Hurling Statue on the River Nore Linear Park — Kilkenny, Ireland.The Rose Garden @ Kilkenny Castle — Kilkenny, Ireland.Started our day with a selfie @ Kilkenny Castle ... ending our day with a selfie @ Kilkenny Castle.

    River Nore & Kilkenny Castle

    June 20, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We walked off our late lunch by following the River Nore back towards the city center.

    I found the vantage point I was looking for to photograph Kilkenny Castle reflected on the river. But ripples on the water foiled my plans. So, after a few clicks of the camera, we continued our stroll along the River Nore Linear Park, adding more steps to those already accumulated during our exploration of Kilkenny City.

    From the riverside path, we found an access point up to the castle. Thus, we wrapped up today’s sightseeing the way we started it ... at Kilkenny Castle. But this time in the Rose Garden instead of the Kilkenny Castle Park.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Kilkenny Castle on a quiet morning — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    Kilkenny Castle in B&W

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Though the plan is to travel further afield today, our second day in Kilkenny started with a pre-breakfast stroll.

    Our destination was the River Nore Linear Park. Along the way, I couldn’t help but stop to photograph Kilkenny Castle.

    What can I say? The temptation to get a photo from the completely deserted street was just too much to pass up.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Kilkenny Castle and the River Nore Linear Park — Kilkenny, Ireland.
    A "we are here" selfie — Kilkenny, Ireland.A "double the pleasure" reflection shot towards John's Bridge — Kilkenny, Ireland.

    Reflections on the Nore

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Our pre-breakfast stroll from Fanad House had a very specific purpose. To capture reflection shots on the River Nore.

    It was chilly at 6:00a when we left our room. No matter ... we bundled up. The air was still. A good omen. By the time we got to the river, the sun was in the right position in the blue sky overhead.

    Yup ... I got my reflection shots!

    A great beginning to our day.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    The curtain wall and tower houses ... and sheep ... as we walk across the meadow — Kells Priory.
    The sheep pay us no heed as they continue grazing — Kells Priory, Ireland.3Kells Priory ... from outside the curtain wall ... 16+ feet high — Kells, Ireland.Glimpse of the burgess court through the eastern gateway — Kells Priory ... Kells, Ireland.Don't have to open the gate to get to the ruins ... just walk through it — Kells Priory, Ireland.Ruins of the monastic precinct @ Kells Priory — Kells, Ireland.A "we are here" selfie — Kells Priory ... Kells, Ireland.Prior's Tower, Chancel, Lady Chapel, & Chapel Prior's Totter — Kells Priory, Ireland.Ruins of the north transept — Kells Priory ... Kells, Ireland.Glimpse of King's River — Kells Priory ... Kells, Ireland.

    Kells Priory

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    First stop on today’s drive: Kells Priory, described by Lonely Planet as one of Ireland’s most “impressive and romantic ruins.”

    Founded in 1193, this Augustinian priory is situated along King’s River. The surrounding curtain wall and the medieval tower houses, which have earned the priory the nickname of “Seven Castles,” made us feel like we were visiting a fortress instead of a place of worship.

    Its rural setting, with lush green meadows in every direction, added to the charm of the site. Sunshine, blue skies with puffy clouds, peaceful quiet, having the place to ourselves. What more could we ask for? Nothing!    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    The Kilree Round Tower dates back from the 9th century — Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.
    Have to hop over this wall to get to the Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.In the absence of a bull, Mui poses with the sign — Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.Glimpse into the ruins of the Church of the King — Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.The graveyard of the 10th century church — Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.High Cross and Round Tower — Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.This high cross is said to mark the grave of a high king — Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.The round tower from behind the high cross — Kilree Monastic Site, Ireland.

    Kilree Monastic Site

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    There’s nothing left from what was once a 6th century monastic site. So, why go there? Because there are other things to see. Namely, a 9th century round tower and a high cross.

    To get to both these sites, we had to climb over a wall; walk across a field where a sign advised us of the presence of a bull ... we didn’t see one; go through a graveyard amongst the ruins of the 10th century Church of the King ... which is what Killree means in Gaelic; and then walk across another field.

    Why go to all this effort? Because the high cross in the field is thought to mark the grave of King Niall, who drowned while trying to save a servant. The river, along which Kells Priory is situated, was later named King’s River in his honor.

    By the way, the servant survived the dunking thanks to the king’s efforts.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland

    Meet the Suffolks ...

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Not the earl by that title ... nor his family. Rather, the breed of sheep that is known by that name.

    We came across them near Jerpoint Park. They were just too cute to pass up without a photo ... or two ... or three.Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Jerpoint Abbey ... best view from the approach road — Thomastown, Ireland.
    The nave ruins through the cloister arcade — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown, Ireland.One of the sculptures decorating the piers of the cloister arcade — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown.The arches of the cloister arcade — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown, Ireland.Sculptures decorating the piers of the cloister arcade — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown, Ireland.The 15th century tower was a later addition — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown, Ireland.Looking down the west half of the nave — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown, Ireland.Effigy tomb of the first abbot of Jerpoint Abbey — Thomastown, Ireland.The cloister garth (garden) and the nave — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown, Ireland.The tower and presbytery ruins — Jerpoint Abbey ... Thomastown, Ireland.

    Jerpoint Abbey

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Jerpoint Abbey, located in Thomastown, is a 12th century Cistercian abbey ... to which a cloister and tower were added during the 15th century. Perhaps its most renowned feature is the sculptures found throughout.

    The guided tour was already in progress, so we opted to explore on our own. Doing so had the added advantage of allowing us to maintain our own pace as we walked along the cloister arcade, stopping frequently to study some of the sculptures that caught our eye.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland

    Lunch Time!

    June 21, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Our lunch stop today was in a town with the not-easy-to-pronounce name of Graiguenamanagh. Even the locals opt to simply call it Graigue.

    Instead of dining at the ever-popular Duiske Inn, we went to the Waterside Inn. Located in a converted grain store, the inn overlooks the River Barrow. The view was delightful. It wasn’t until we got back to the hotel, however, that I realized that we were looking across the water to County Carlow.

    Despite the clouds overhead, the sun put in frequent appearances, making it comfy enough to sit outdoors. Mui special ordered a salad with smoked salmon. I had the chicken and mushroom vol-au-vent. Both dishes were very good.

    Our second meal in Ireland— in what seemed like an off-the-beaten path location — proved quite satisfactory.    Read more

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