TA HAL Oosterdam 2023

oktober - november 2023
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
Another westbound TransAtlantic to return us home from our annual trip to Türkiye ... with sightseeing along the way. Meer informatie
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Lijst met landen

  • Spanje Spanje
  • Frankrijk Frankrijk
  • Italië Italië
  • Montenegro Montenegro
  • Griekenland Griekenland
  • Verenigde Staten Verenigde Staten
  • Turkije Turkije
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  • 10,4kafgelegde kilometers
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  • 26dagen
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  • The tiled dome of the Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy — Barcelona, Spain.
    Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy — Barcelona, Spain.Mother of God of the Mercy and an aerial view of the interior of the basilica — Barcelona, Spain.Stained glass window at the Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy — Barcelona, Spain.On the way to the cathedral — Barcelona, Spain.Postcard view of the cathedral — Barcelona Spain.A closer look at the front facade of the cathedral — Barcelona Spain.Looking up into the dome of the cathedral — Barcelona Spain.Interior of the cathedral — Barcelona Spain.Interior of the cathedral — Barcelona Spain.Crypt of St Eulàlia at the cathedral — Barcelona Spain.From the cathedral rooftop — Barcelona Spain.From the cathedral rooftop — Barcelona Spain.From the cathedral rooftop — Barcelona Spain.Tiles in the courtyard of La Casa de L'Ardiaca ... home of the historical archives — Barcelona.Tile panel ... La Casa de L'Ardiaca ... home of the historical archives — Barcelona, Spain.La Casa de L'Ardiaca ... home of the historical archiv Barcelona.

    Barcelona, Spain: Basilica & Cathedral

    31 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Our day started with a morning at sea.

    It was great to be able to relax a bit before arriving in Barcelona for our overnight stay … especially since I knew that no matter what we said about taking it easy in Barcelona, we would likely not be doing so.

    Once Oosterdam was tied up and cleared, we disembarked, made our way through the terminal, and walked over to the stop from where we knew the blue port shuttle would be picking up passengers. Within minutes, we were on the bus, purchasing €4.50/pp day passes from the driver. The drive to the Barcelona World Trade Center, the drop-off & pick-up location for the shuttle, was no more than 10 minutes and soon we were off for a wander.

    Having been to Barcelona numerous times, and not wanting to battle the crowds at the popular sites, our plan was to get lost (on purpose) in the side streets of Las Ramblas and see where our feet would take us.

    Our aimless stroll found us in the Gothic Center, and the Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy. The tiled dome had us going inside to check it out … and the sign advising that the “Mother of God of the Mercy” could only be visited when mass was not being said led me upstairs to a window from which I was able to get an aerial shot of the interior of the basilica.

    Continuing to then follow meandering streets crowded with tourists, we made our way to the Barcelona Cathedral. Since we had never checked it out in all the times we’ve visited the city, we paid the admission to enter … mostly for a chance to go up to the roof for views of Barcelona from high above. There were indeed views … but they were limited because the walkway across the ridge of the roof was undergoing restoration.

    C’est la vie. Or as the Spanish might say, “Así es la vida.”
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  • Museu Frederic Marès is in the Gothic section of Barcelona.
    Scenes from around the old Royal Palace of the Counts of Barcelona.Ladies Hall ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.A few of the hundreds of fans in the Ladies Hall ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Meerschaum pipe ... Smoking Room ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Library/study where Marès' own sculptures are exhibited ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Marès' sculpture ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Marès' sculpture ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Library/study ... panels depicting visit of Emperor Charles V ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona.Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Ivory chest from Italy ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Fabrics ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain."Woman with an Ermine" (16th century) ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Iberian votive offerings (5th century BC to 1st century AD) ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona.Terracotta figurine of a woman ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Two female figures (2nd century) ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Limoges-style enamel chest ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.Front piece of a sarcophagus with scenes from the bible ... Museu Frederic Marès — Barcelona, Spain.

    Barcelona: Museu Frederic Marès

    31 oktober 2023, Spanje

    Around the corner from the Barcelona Cathedral is the Museu Frederic Marès.

    Marès was a sculptor … quoted as having said that he makes sculptures to buy sculptures. He is known as the “… most distinguished Catalan collector of the 20th century.” In addition to donating to the museum a small number of his own sculptures, which we found in what was once the library-study of the old Royal Palace of the Counts of Barcelona, he turned over his collections to the city in 1946.

    On the top two floors, where we started our visit, are displays that are part of the “Collector’s Cabinet.” There are tens of thousand of pieces in the Cabinet … making up a series of collections that “document past lifestyles and customs, mainly from the 19th century.”

    Such variety of items left us in wonder … toys, wrought iron works, weapons, photographs, timepieces, ceramics and glassware, and more. The women’s hall had everything from hundreds of fans to purses to gloves to bouquet-holders that women carried in their hands. The collection of pipes in the Smoker’s Hall were like miniature sculptures in meerschaum.

    The remaining floors exhibit a collection of sculptures … mostly religious in nature … from ancient times to the 19th century.

    Perhaps the most amazing part of our visit to the museum was the fact that there were very few people sharing the experience with us. Talk about being off the beaten path … in the heart of Barcelona.
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  • A great place for tapas — Barcelona, Spain.
    Our table in the rear hallway — Barcelona, Spain.Delicious sangria and tapas for dinner — Barcelona, Spain.Off the beaten path ... but a safe neighborhood ... even on Halloween — Barcelona, Spain.

    Barcelona: Tapas @ Las Alcoba Azul

    31 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    It was almost 5:00p when we left the museum. Mui had found us a place for tapas, but it wasn’t scheduled to open until 6:00p. Nonetheless, we decided to head in that direction, meandering along the way. Good thing we did. The guys who operate the tapateria directed us to their sister property next door — Las Alcoba Azul — which was already serving.

    As it was breezy and cool — and would likely get downright chilly as the evening progressed — we opted against sitting on the sidewalk and took a table inside. Though it was still early by Barcelona standards, the place filled up pretty quickly … a sign of Las Alcoba’s popularity despite its location off the beaten path.

    The building in which the restaurant is located is very narrow. The entrance area is just big enough for a bar and a row of tables along the side wall. Just past the galley-style kitchen was a step up that led to a long hallway-like room. It was here that we were seated. The stone walls added an interesting ambiance; the remaining walls were distressed to add to the aged-look of the place. Frankly, at first glance, the place looked like a dump. If it wasn’t for the highly-rated reviews, we might have wondered what the heck we were doing there.

    We ordered a pitcher of sangria to start. Perusing the menu, we selected a bunch of dishes … starting with a half-order of jamon Iberico and pan con tomate [Iberian ham and bread with tomatoes]. These were the only two dishes that were served together … all of the other dishes were brought to the table one at a time, the server matching the delivery of food to our eating pace … which was slow. We also had chicken satay with a peanut sauce; accordion potatoes that were exceptionally delicious … with the two sauces (one spicy) on the side at our request; and a toast of bacon and brie topped with crushed nuts. All delicious.

    Another meandering stroll took us back to the port shuttle stop and we were back on the ship by 8:30p. Time to rest up for another day in Barcelona tomorrow .
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  • Hospital Sant Pau ... impressive is clearly a good description — Barcelona, Spain.
    Model of Hospital Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Shot from the short documentary on the history of Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.One of the many tunnels linking the buildings of Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Detail from one of the buildings @ Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Day room exhibiting the "protectors of Sant Pau" — Barcelona, Spain.Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Reflection of the Administration Building @ Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Administration Building @ Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Decorative details are everywhere ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Panorama of the grounds from inside ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Replica of a patient ward ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Dayroom for ambulatory patients and their visitors ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Administrative Building ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Administrative Building ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Detail from the Domènech i Montaner Room @ Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.View of the grounds from the Domènech i Montaner Room @ Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Administrative Building ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.Gallery at the Administrative Building ... Sant Pau — Barcelona, Spain.

    Barcelona Spain … Day 2: Sant Pau

    1 november 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    It was 9:00a by the time we left the ship. Most of our shipmates were already long gone. Some because Barcelona was the end of the cruise for them. Others because they were on tours that had an early start. Not us … we planned to have an easy-going day.

    As we did yesterday, we took the port bus out to the Barcelona World Trade Center. Then we hopped in a taxi to take us to a hospital. Not just any hospital, mind you, but to one that is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

    Owned by the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau Foundation, the Sant Pau Art Nouveau site — Sant Pau, for short — is described in the brochure that we were given as a “… jewel of Modernista architecture.” The institution was built between 1902-1930 by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and served as a hospital from 1916 to 2009 when the new hospital went into service.

    But don’t let these dates fool you. The hospital and city have a shared history of over six centuries. Santa Creu was founded in 1401 as the general hospital for the Catalan capital, and evolved over the centuries, playing a vital role in the modernization of the city and Catalonia. The one difference? The original hospital was an example of Gothic architecture; the one we visited today is an example of Modernisme … as Catalan Art Nouveau is known.

    We explored the site in total awe, flabbergasted by the amazing decorative details everywhere … in and on buildings that were designed to provide medical services. That the site deserves its UNESCO inscription goes without saying. Not all of the buildings were open for visitors to check out … not all have been restored to their former glory. The ones that have, however … well, mamma mia!

    We wandered the grounds around which the free-standing buildings sit, connected by at least a half mile worth of tunnels through which patients and doctors used to move easily … and supplies used to be brought into the facility. Gardens and conservatories provided a place for ambulatory patients and their visitors to meet, stroll, and rest. The spacious facilities at every turn were a clear indication of how the wellbeing of patients was of foremost importance at Sant Pau.

    The piéce de resistance, however, was the Administration Building. Its clock tower and band of mosaic scenes around the exterior were impressive enough, but the interior beat all that in spades. From the pink-tiled, domed ceiling of the foyer; to the octagonal stained glass skylight in the center of the ceiling over the main staircase; to the beautiful glass and tile work in the Domènech i Montaner Room … which had an impressive view of the grounds; to the gallery with its incredible tile ceiling and wall of glass doors letting in the clear light of the day.

    An awe inspiring site … and just wow!
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  • Sagrada Famiglia ... a glimpse before we leave San Pau — Barcelona, Spain.
    Las Tasqueta Blai ... a pincho bar — Barcelona Spain.A selection of pinchos and a pitcher of sangria for lunch — Barcelona, Spain.Some of the pins the waiter will use to calculate our bill — Barcelona, Spain.Bye Bye Barcelona.

    Barcelona: Spanish Farewell Pinchos

    1 november 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    No, we are not leaving Spain yet. We still have a number of Spanish ports to call on before we begin the crossing to the USA. But this segment of our 26-day cruise has the fancy name of “Spanish Farewell.” So, we thought we’d celebrate it with pinchos.

    It was the glimpse of Sagrada Famiglia, the famous Gaudi church — under construction since 1882 — that reminded that we had to get a move on. No, we weren’t planning to visit the church. But we had a 4-mile walk back to the port bus stop and our route would be taking us by Sagrada.

    Mui had in mind that we’d have tapas somewhere along our walking route. But after checking out a few places, we decided to go to an old favorite — La Tasqueta de Blai. We’d already walked a couple of miles when we made this decision. Instead of continuing on foot, we grabbed a taxi just so we wouldn’t have to rush through a pitcher of sangria to wash down the goodies we were bound to find there.

    La Tasqueta is not a tapas place so much as it is a “pincho bar.” The food comes in individual-bites that you select from the display. You then take your dish to a table — in our case, to one on the pavement outside. Each pincho has a pin that you remove and place in a cup. The pins denote the price of each item and the server uses them to calculate the bill. We got a selection of pinchos, an order of patatas bravas, and a pitcher of sangria to wash it all down. Delicious.

    After our meal, we went next door to a gelateria for a sweet treat to enjoy on the walk to the port bus stop. Our plan had been to be on a bus back to the ship around 3:00p. We were a little early at 2:30p, but that bought us some time to take care of business relating to our Australia Panorama cruise before we sailed away from Barcelona and lost our data signal.

    Perfect timing as we were done with our work just as Oosterdam moved out of its berth to head to our next Spanish port of call.
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  • Cartagena, Spain … No Go

    2 november 2023, Western Mediterranean ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    Lost another port today to the vagaries of Mother Nature. This is the second port cancelation due to weather since embarking Oosterdam in Istanbul on 21 October.

    With Oosterdam scheduled for an 11:00a arrival in Cartagena, we were having a quiet morning at sea … one that had started with a colorful sunrise. When Captain Rens’ P/A announcement came over the speakers in the cabin at 10:45a, we immediately knew it was not good news. And it wasn’t.

    As it turns out, Mother Nature was going to force Oosterdam out to sea. Apparently, we got as far as picking up the pilot for the final run into Cartagena. Captain Rens said that he wanted to confirm the conditions with the pilot instead of canceling the call based just on what the weather reports were telling him.

    Conditions were such that we might have made it into port. Perhaps even managed to dock despite winds gusting up to 50 knots. But the chances of being able to get out at the end of the day were nil as the storm was expected to increase in strength. The culprit for these conditions … a stationary low pressure front in the English Channel, which is moving in our direction.

    Alrighty then, a day at sea it would be … swells in the 12-15 feet range to keep us on our toes.

    As soon as the announcement was over, we rushed to the starboard side, which was in sight of Spain, to check if there was a cell signal … to update friends and family; check emails and social media, and catch up on the news. The signal was still strong when we put our phones back on airplane mode an hour later.

    Captain Rens has indicated that we still have a shot at Malaga tomorrow as winds are forecasted to be gusting to only 20 knots. But he did say that it will be congested as several other ships are trying to find alternate ports and Malaga seems to be the choice du jour. The good news is that Malaga has been on our itinerary from the get go, so we should have priority for berthing.
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  • Town Center — Ronda, Spain.
    Puente Nuevo — Ronda, Spain.View from Puente Nuevo — Ronda, Spain.Closer look at the view from Puente Nuevo — Ronda, Spain.Tile mural of the city — Ronda, Spain.Streetscape — Ronda, Spain.Streetscape — Ronda, Spain.The walls of the Moorish medina — Ronda, Spain.Panoramic view of the city — Ronda, Spain.Perfect spot for a selfie — Ronda, Spain.View through the gate into the medina — Ronda, Spain.Streetscape — Ronda, Spain.Streetscape — Ronda, Spain.Cityscape across the gorge ... in B&W — Ronda, Spain.View of the Andalusian countryside — Ronda, Spain.Tile panel on a house in Ronda, Spain.The local bullring — Ronda, Spain.Birdhouse in the park — Ronda, Spain.Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced ... on the way to the bus station — Ronda, Spain.Tile mural at the bus station — Ronda, Spain.

    Málaga, Spain: Quick Look @ Ronda

    3 november 2023, Spanje

    We love Málaga.

    Though we still had places to explore in this charming city, and a sidewalk café near the Central Market where we like to have tapas al fresco, we decided a change of pace would be appropriate for what was our third time in Málaga.

    Thus, we booked a small group public tour through Spain Day Tours that took us further afield … first to Ronda; then to Mijas.

    With the prime berth — right in front of the terminal — given to Celebrity Beyond, we had to take a shuttle from Oosterdam to the terminal. The meeting time for the group was set between 8:15a and 8:29a. We had strict instructions from Spain Day Tours stating that they leave exactly at 8:30a. So, we were on the 8:00a shuttle to give ourselves plenty of leeway. As it turns out, it was our guide Enrique who delayed our departure by 10 minutes, not the tour participants.

    The 65-mile drive to Ronda takes 1.5 hours. Our drive through the Andalusian countryside took more like 2 hours … primarily due to a 20-minute bathroom and refreshment break at Mesón de Diego, which I thought was a bit of an overkill considering the distance.

    Ronda is a town in the mountains. It is perhaps best known for its cliffside location, split into two by the 390-foot deep Tajo Gorge … through which Rio Guadalevin runs. The town is also part of the Sierra de las Nieves National Park, which makes it all the more special. Though there is indication of prehistoric settlements in the area, Ronda was first settled by the Celts in the 6th century BC. A number of other cultures replaced them over the centuries, including the Moors. Finally, the Spaniards permanently conquered the town.

    I first became aware of Ronda when Mui and I took a Spanish class in the late 1990s. One of our assignments was to pick a town and describe “our apartment” there. It was a picture of the town, sitting high behind Puente Nuevo [new bridge], that drew us to using the town for that exercise. I wanted to replicate that picture for myself today. Alas, we did not have time to cross over to the other side of the gorge to get the right perspective.

    We arrived at the Ronda bus station at 10:49a. This was to be our drop off point, Enrique explained … just a short walk into the Old Town. We had just short of two hours to explore the town … not nearly enough for “slow travelers” that we are. C’est la vie.

    Our fleet-footed stroll around Ronda started at Puerto Nuevo … “new” being a matter of perspective since the bridge dates back to 1751-1793. Then we got ourselves lost — on purpose — in the narrow, cobblestone back streets where we got away from the crowds to explore the nooks and crannies of Ronda. We walked along the Murallas de la Cuara, the fortified walls that follow the edge of the cliff, and where the Moors had established their medina. At the end of the path, we were rewarded with fantastic views of Ronda.

    Our meandering path then took us back to the hubbub around Puente Nuevo, following streets that made for charming photo ops. There were several sites of interest along the way, but with our time short, we opted to skip going inside this time. We passed the bullring, wandered into a garden that I believe was part of the grounds of the nearby church, enjoyed Andalusian valley views from an overlook, and made it back to the bus station by 12:45p as requested … with a café-stop that was just long enough for Mui to grab an espresso at the bar.

    A nice exploratory couple of hours that left Ronda on our “return-to-explore-further list.”
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  • We're heading up to Mijas, the white village in the foothills.
    Welcome to Mijas, Spain.I ride the "bronze donkey," but we skip the donkey taxi — Mijas, Spain.The taxi rank! — Mijas, Spain.View from the terrace near the town hall — Mijas, Spain.We love Mijas, Spain.Shrine of the Virgen de la Peña — Mijas, Spain.Visitor to the shrine — Mijas, Spain.Overlook with a view of the central plaza — Mijas, Spain.The white-washed buildings and blue flower pots ... charming — Mijas, Spain.Mijas, Spain.Mijas, Spain.Mijas, Spain.Mijas, Spain.A perfect spot for a photo op — Mijas, Spain.My favorite photo from Mijas, Spain.View through the arches — Mijas, Spain.Panoramic view of Mijas, Spain.Mijas, Spain.Mijas, Spain.

    Málaga: Quick Look @ Mijas

    3 november 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    From Ronda, Tulio drove us to Mijas … a little more than an hour away. Trust me, you didn’t want to hear Enrique singing the song that popped into our minds when he described our route through the mountain as a “long and winding road.”

    A quick stop along the way gave us a chance for a distant glimpse of the Rock of Gibraltar veiled by haze. Along our route, the Mediterranean kept us company as we drove through one of the playgrounds that draw the rich and famous to Spain … Marbella.

    Known as the “White Village” due to its white-washed buildings, Mijas is described as being on the Costa del Sol. It would be more accurate to say, however, that it overlooks the coast since it sits high up in the foothills of the limestone mountains known as Sierra de Mijas. The mountains are said to be the “green lung of the Costa del Sol.” At only 1,476 feet above sea level — about half that of Ronda — it wasn’t nearly as cool in Mijas as it had been in Ronda. Nor as windy. And the sun was shining here to keep us comfortably warm as we wandered around.

    The town was founded in prehistoric times by the Tartessians. From what I read later, the fortifications we saw around Mijas are from the original defenses built to protect the town. As was the case with Ronda, a number of other cultures settled here through the centuries, including the Moors. In fact, the village owes its name to the Moors, who abbreviated the original name of Tamisa to Mixa … which then became Mijas.

    From the observation terrace near the Town Hall — our drop off point — we headed off on our own. We had two hours to see what we could see.

    Photo ops around the observation terrace led us over to a viewpoint to check out the 17th century Shrine of the Virgen de la Peña, aka the Virgin of the Rock … built into a cave that was excavated by a Carmelite Monk. Tradition has it that the cave was discovered in 1586 by two shepherd children who were guided to the place by a dove.

    One of the things Mijas is known for is its donkeys. The Andalusian donkey is a native breed that is bigger than others. These animals were used to carry goods from he coast … which were then distributed around the mountain villages. If Enrique is to be believed, Mijas’s “donkey taxi” — basically a cart pulled by a donkey — became a “thing” because tourists kept asking to take photos of the animals and ride them around town.

    A meandering stroll took us into narrow streets, the flower pots decorating the side walls of the buildings charming us and adding color to an otherwise all-white streetscape. We made our way to another terrace overlooking the backside of the village … quieter here than the center of town, which was a hubbub of activity with tourists shopping and filling up cafés and restaurants. Passing by the Plaza de Toros of Mijas, we made our way back to the meeting point, stopping along the way to get a sweet treat from a gelateria.

    The return drive to Málaga followed yet another route … via the highway this time. The drive was about 45 minutes long … the shortest of the day. As promised, we were back at the port terminal at 4:30p. Through the security checkpoint without delay; then onto the shuttle bus that was about to depart the terminal to take passengers back to Oosterdam.

    We made such good time getting back to the ship that we decided to quickly freshen up and head to the dining room at 5:00p. After all, except for the gelato, we’d not had time to eat during the tour. Our tummies were registering their complaint.

    We had just placed our order when the Master of the Vessel ding-donged into the dining room. Oh oh!
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  • The weather report that changed everything.
    The letter that explains the changes.

    Cadiz, Lisbon, Funchal … No Go

    3 november 2023, Spanje

    A big change! To our itinerary, that is. One that is going to delay our “Spanish Farewell” since the ports that have been added to replace the ones we lost belong to Spain.

    Here’s more about the information Captain Rens had to share with us when he came over the P/A system just before our departure from Malaga.

    Looks like the low pressure front in the English Channel and Bay of Biscay is continuing to move in our direction. In fact, by the time of our planned arrival in Lisbon the day after tomorrow, the sea state is expected to be in the 18-21 feet range. So, the storms put paid to both Cadiz and Lisbon.

    As well, the Portuguese port pilots are preparing to strike, which will impact maritime operations in Funchal … where using a pilot is compulsory. Captain Rens said that they looked at going to the Azores instead. Yes, also a Portuguese port. But there the pilots are supplied by the navy, so no problem in that respect. Except for the impact from the storm.

    So, the three ports ahead of our 7-day run down the Atlantic to Florida are now all canceled. In place of Cadiz tomorrow, we will have a day at sea. Then, we will call on the Canary Islands — Las Palmas de Gran Canaria on the 5th; Santa Cruz de Tenerife on the 6th. And instead of a 7-day crossing, we’re going to have a more southerly 8-day crossing.

    Changes are changes. C’est la vie. We’ll roll with the punches with which we’ve been hit.
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  • In addition to receiving our 3-Star Mariner loyalty pins today, we received Delft tile coasters.

    Sailing South to the Canaries

    5 november 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

    A day that should have been a port of call, is a day at sea instead.

    But I explained all that in yesterday’s footprint when we first learned of the changes to our itinerary from the Master of the Vessel.

    Captain Rens had said that despite the deviation to our planned route to avoid the storm, we’d still feel the motion of the ocean. It just wouldn’t be as rough. In fact, we started feeling the swells around midnight last night … when we were transiting the Strait of Gibraltar.

    No, we didn’t see The Rock, since it was to Oosterdam’s starboard. Nor was Africa visible in the pitch dark of night on the port side.

    The ship was still rolling quite a bit when we woke up this morning. Later in the day, Oosterdam switched things up and started pitching instead. The ocean looked deceivingly calm … lots of dead swells.

    I managed to set myself up on the veranda to do a bit of writing once the sun moved off. From my vantage point, the swells didn’t look particularly big. In his noon announcement, however, Captain Rens said that they were in the 15-16 feet range. He also said that he had checked the weather and sea conditions off the Portuguese coast and the swells there were in the 30-36 feet range … worse than he thought they would be when he made the announcement that we were re-routing to a more southerly route for the crossing.

    One of the nice things they do on HAL ships is the port presentations. Aside from what’s available on the TV, the Cruise & Travel Director leads a session geared towards independents like us. The session includes logistical information for the port, tips on local sightseeing ideas and how to get around, recommendations for places to explore that might be a little further afield, and a Q&A wrap-up.

    Tonight we went to the session for Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. It was standing-room only. We now have a loose plan that will take us in one of two directions in Las Palmas. Which one? We’ll decide that once we arrive in port.
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