Day 16 Last day in Riomaggiore

Unfortunately, it’s our last day in Riomaggione - head off to Nice tomorrow - so we decided to explore in & around the city a bit.

We hit all the spots on my must see list - Costello di Riomaggiore built in 1260, Giovanni Batista, founded in 1340, then rebuilt after it collapsed in 1879 - beautiful interior - then hiked up to Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero - also called Lady Madonna, 340 meter above Rio.

The route up was “reasonable” & picturesque, with our ears popping as we headed up. The view was spectacular - we could see 3 of the 5 cities. Heading down, Peter, of course, decided we should take the EE (Expert Excursionist) route. See short video. What you don’t see is what happened next.

After heading down the stairs, gripping the rocks, we came to a locked gate, which we inched past then slide slipped down another 10 minutes - then the path ended . . . . Sooooo we had to hike all the way back up. Certainly added to our step count - and sweat level.

Home for lunch on our tiny patio, then out again to explore further. This time down to the harbour, over to more look out points, them a quick stop at our local Coop for the essentials - wine & beer. We’re now happily “home” watching the scene below and sipping our drinks.

A quick reflection on our time here. It’s been a fab 5 days. Peter thinks we should have planned only 4, but I like more time to settle in and explore - especially when there are 5 cities to visit. We actually hiked every route that was open. The only one that was inaccessible was from Manarola to Corniglia.

Overall impression - colourful buildings built high into the hills, amazing scenic views from the trails, steep ascents, rocky descents, super narrow streets packed with people, staircases up everywhere you look, trains running continually between the 5 cities, lots of noise - Italians speak loudly - an air of carefree chaos.

We were disappointed we couldn’t find fresh fish - seems the fishermen found it more lucrative & easier to get into the tourist industry. The small restaurants served more frozen fish than fresh. The focaccia, capresse salad, gelato & local white wine, Litan, were great.

Our place was charming - highly recommend it. Our elderly hostess, Franca, speaking Italian only, said the stove didn’t work. She obviously didn’t know how to operate an induction stove. It worked well - had 3 dinners here - preferred being above the crowds peacefully looking down on it all. Fortunately, the noise subsided about 11 and with shutters closed and AC on it was quiet - at least until 7 when it all started up again.

Advice - perhaps don’t visit until 2024 - 25 when they say all the trails will be open - but don’t count on it. This is Italy after all.Читать далее