Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles- Spain

The walk over the Pyrenees was very hard. I can only liken it to imagine doing the Balmoral Burn over 25k and the dropping over the other side for 5k descending at a 45 degree angle. It was so steep going down I could feel the pull of gravity trying to suck me down to the bottom! The scenery was a wonderful and stunning distraction! Great vistas the result of ancient uplift and tectonic plates colliding eons ago! It was very peaceful even though the alpine air was very thin as I tried to draw greedily on every bit of oxygen my lungs would allow.

Our only companions were other pilgrims on the track and cows, sheep and horses grazing or lying down in stone edged fields. Their tinkling bells around their necks was the only sound that broke the silence with the occasional screech of eagles hunting in pairs as they cruised the thermals supported by their expansive wings. I wished one of them would swoop down and carry me down to Roncesvalles, our first destination in Spain.

We followed the same route Napoleon took with his troops which was also an ancient Roman road made over the Pyrenees. I marvelled at how strong these soldiers were to endure this in full uniform and kit. I also resolved not to complain when I thought of the first pilgrims who travelled this way in medieval times- without walking poles and wifi!

At Roncesvalles we stayed at the ancient Augustinian monastery designed to minister to pilgrims on the way to Santiago in the 12th Century. It is one of the oldest in Spain and a huge complex in its day. It served the pilgrims on the way to Santiago and was open to all of any religion or circumstance- which was extraordinary for the day.

Fun fact: in the 12th century if you did something wrong you were brought before the judge who might, instead of sending you to your death, sentence you to walk the Camino to Santiago as a means of changing your character for the better. Mainly, it was hoped you would die on the way, either by illness, exhaustion, lack of food or shelter or being attacked by bandits. If you made it to Santiago you would have repented your sins and be pardoned to begin your new life. Most didn't make it going this way!!! Hopefully we do!!

Roncesvalles was famous also as it was here that Charlemaine's troops tried to hold the Moors back from invading Spain under his General Roland. It's now being restored and caters for the huge number of modern day pilgrims today. We attended evening Mass and were given a special traditional blessing given to pilgrims from all over the world we had met over dinner that night. A very humbling experience.

A 12th Century statue of St James in the church there reminded us of our purpose - dressed in simple garb, wearing a pilgrims hat to keep the sun off, a shell attached, symbol of Christian baptism and the pilgrim, carrying a staff, a gourd filled with water and a book of the scriptures/ journal. See if you can spot these in the photo attached!Leia mais