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Camino 2016
  • Mary Diggins
Sep – Nov 2016

Camino 2016

A 44-day adventure by Mary Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 27, 2016
    Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    St Jean Pied de Port

    September 27, 2016 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Bonjour la classe! We have arrived at Saint Jean Pied de Port which literally means at the foot or the beginning of the mountains to the Camino de Santiago. Here we visited the pilgrims office and registered for the Camino. A delightful French lady explained the route to us and assured us that the weather would be fine for walking across the mountains. It's important as the weather can close the pass easily. She finished by telling us that we were not tourists but pilgrims now and would be referred to as such! Peregrinos they call us! We feel as if we are "on the Way" now!

    Saint Jean is a medieval town and like all the towns in this region it's built on a rise with a citadel and walls for fortification. The church is part of this too as the people would seek refuge in it during sieges. It dates back to the 10th Century and the king of Navarre resided here. The citadel which served him with a wonderful outlook for enemies is now a school! Imagine going to school in a kings castle!! One of the photos looks down from there across the town to the Pyrenees where we will walk.

    Also Look at the photos and you can see a plaque we came across almost by accident!
    St Francis Xavier's paternal grandparents lived here in Saint Jean- his family had ties with the kings of Navarre. You could well imagine him visiting his grandparents as a boy here.
    Boys, if you love game of thrones- this is the place!! Au revoir for now- Ben Chery- I imagine you would converse well here!! I'm thinking of you all as you begin the term-
    Mrs D.    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles- Spain

    September 29, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The walk over the Pyrenees was very hard. I can only liken it to imagine doing the Balmoral Burn over 25k and the dropping over the other side for 5k descending at a 45 degree angle. It was so steep going down I could feel the pull of gravity trying to suck me down to the bottom! The scenery was a wonderful and stunning distraction! Great vistas the result of ancient uplift and tectonic plates colliding eons ago! It was very peaceful even though the alpine air was very thin as I tried to draw greedily on every bit of oxygen my lungs would allow.

    Our only companions were other pilgrims on the track and cows, sheep and horses grazing or lying down in stone edged fields. Their tinkling bells around their necks was the only sound that broke the silence with the occasional screech of eagles hunting in pairs as they cruised the thermals supported by their expansive wings. I wished one of them would swoop down and carry me down to Roncesvalles, our first destination in Spain.

    We followed the same route Napoleon took with his troops which was also an ancient Roman road made over the Pyrenees. I marvelled at how strong these soldiers were to endure this in full uniform and kit. I also resolved not to complain when I thought of the first pilgrims who travelled this way in medieval times- without walking poles and wifi!

    At Roncesvalles we stayed at the ancient Augustinian monastery designed to minister to pilgrims on the way to Santiago in the 12th Century. It is one of the oldest in Spain and a huge complex in its day. It served the pilgrims on the way to Santiago and was open to all of any religion or circumstance- which was extraordinary for the day.

    Fun fact: in the 12th century if you did something wrong you were brought before the judge who might, instead of sending you to your death, sentence you to walk the Camino to Santiago as a means of changing your character for the better. Mainly, it was hoped you would die on the way, either by illness, exhaustion, lack of food or shelter or being attacked by bandits. If you made it to Santiago you would have repented your sins and be pardoned to begin your new life. Most didn't make it going this way!!! Hopefully we do!!

    Roncesvalles was famous also as it was here that Charlemaine's troops tried to hold the Moors back from invading Spain under his General Roland. It's now being restored and caters for the huge number of modern day pilgrims today. We attended evening Mass and were given a special traditional blessing given to pilgrims from all over the world we had met over dinner that night. A very humbling experience.

    A 12th Century statue of St James in the church there reminded us of our purpose - dressed in simple garb, wearing a pilgrims hat to keep the sun off, a shell attached, symbol of Christian baptism and the pilgrim, carrying a staff, a gourd filled with water and a book of the scriptures/ journal. See if you can spot these in the photo attached!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    On to Pamplona- city of the bulls!

    October 1, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    From Roncesvalles we walked to Pamplona - 40k over 2 days. Rolling countryside and small villages - through forests and wide open hills- it was very hot walking, however the shade of beautiful beech forests were respite from the heat. I nearly trod on a small brown and copper coloured snake as it slithered from one side of the track to the other! See if you can find out what kind of snakes inhabit the Navarre region!

    We limped into Pamplona on the afternoon of the 1st October and stayed at an Albergue which was once a Jesuit Church! Now converted, this work offers a place for pilgrims to stay and the proceeds go to helping people with disabilities. We stayed in bunk beds in a space that housed 100 people! It was called Albergue Jesu y Maria.

    Pamplona is also the place where they run bulls through the streets and have bullfights. It's also the place where in his early years as a soldier, Ignatius Loyola defended the walls of Pamplona from the French and was wounded by a cannonball. Having walked to Pamplona over the mountains I had a new appreciation for how Ignatius must have endured being stretchered home to Loyola over similar pathways! It must have been punishing!!

    I think this act of such generosity from the French who stretchered him home changed him forever. The French who took him home to Loyola probably did so because they too were basque - from the French side- where we had walked from! They were looking after a brother then! No enemy for them! No wonder generosity is such an important ignatian gift! Boys, remember your random acts of kindness are so important!!!

    As I walked the fortified city ramparts here it was also easy to imagine a young Ignacio defending his beloved Basque Country and people against the French troops. These battles must have been carnage! If the stones could speak!!!

    We walked the Calle de San Ignacio many times and walked past the place where he fell- plaque marks the spot and there is a chapel there also to commemorate him.

    Fun fact: Local food unique to Pamplona Pincxos ( means skewered!) or food on skewers. You have this for lunch or a light evening meal.
    Adios mes amigos ( for now!)    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Uterga- Cirauqui-Estella

    October 4, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Hola! Buenas Dias! Buen Camino!

    These are the greetings which meet us as we begin the days. The Spanish are so welcoming- Hello! Good morning! Good walking or good pilgrimage! We respond with the same or simply Grathias!
    I am struck by this wonderful attitude to life- so welcoming, so connected to others. It makes me feel happy to be alive!

    Pamplona was a wonderful city experience, however it has been a surprising relief to be back on the way and on the pilgrim trail again. Leaving behind the city streets and seeing the wide expanse of brown country rise up in front of us was like a breath of fresh air.

    The earth had just been turned, ready to lie fallow for the coming winter. As the autumn sun warmed the topsoil, insects and birds flew about us, trees yielding figs and the last of blackberries and seed podded weeds along the path. Autumn truly is a golden time here! There is always something to catch the eye!
    Unfortunately though the noticing was all about the hilltop villages- and to get to them- the hill had to be climbed!

    One of the major landmarks of these three days was climbing the Alto del Perdon where a monument stands to pilgrims of the Way to Santiago across the centuries. It is an achievement to arrive atop this mountain as the path upward is stony and steep with the ridge studded with wind turbines your only marker until you arrive at the top.

    The villages of Uterga and Cirauqui were farming villages and the people so warm and welcoming. They grow their own wine called Bodegas which we tasted with our pilgrim meals which featured specialties that the locals would eat and prepare. One night we ate in the oldest part of the house which was the wine cellar! Wonderful!

    Boys these villages were also remnants of Roman days- we walked out of Cirauqui on an old roman road and over a Roman built bridge. Imagine getting across here then! See photo- also a man in the village had been growing a map in a field- see if you can recognise it!

    Estella was a small town on the river Arga. Surrounded by hills, It had two enormous churches adorning the old town- one we visited was named after St Peter and it was here that the kings of Navarre would come to be crowned. It had an adjoining cloister and was magnificent!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Los Arcos - Viana

    October 9, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This part of the journey brought us to the town of Los Arcos and on to another small village called Viana. Just out of Estella is a huge and now empty Benedictine monastery which provided wine for the region in its day. Now a Bodegas winery, pilgrims pass a free wine tap where you can sip the wine on tap! At 8.30am?!!!

    We had a rest day in Los Arcos as there was an international motor bike rally in the region and the accommodation was booked out in the surrounding towns! Interestingly we learned that the Australian team had been the previous winners and favourites for this coming race!!

    Los Arcos again had a beautiful 16th Century church and cloister. To our delight there was a special altar dedicated to St Francis Xavier and St Ignatius. The two basque boys- Francis Xavier being the local boy and hero from Navarre! There was also a 16th Century music choristers manuscript in the choir loft! It was huge! Imagine singing from this!

    This area also featured the evidence of the knights templar. These knights, after the crusades, took it upon themselves to protect and look after pilgrims on the way to Santiago. They built churches and hospitals for them and provided protection for them as it was a treacherous journey in the 12th Century.

    We passed a monument to one of these knights and a Church dating back to the 11th Century with an engraved pure silver cross insure it under glass. It looked like it had been brought back from the crusades! Truly beautiful.
    The small building in one of the photos is a medieval well and water fountain hewn out of rock and built by the moors in the 13th Century.    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Walking with Ignacio!

    October 10, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The word Camino is a beautiful Spanish word. It means 'the way' and this term has been used for many Caminos which join the Camino Frances which is the one most taken to Santiago de Compostella.

    Inigo Lopez de Loyola, or Ignacio, which was his name before he took the Latin name Ignatius, decided to become a peregrino or pilgrim and set off on his own pilgrimage to the Holy Land in 1522. He would have been familiar with the Camino de Santiago and seen many a pilgrim before he became one himself!

    He began his walk from his home in Loyola and instead of going north via Pamplona into Navarre country, where the French had occupied, he would have walked through Spanish territory to be on the safe side! This led him down to the town of Logrono where we crossed paths with his way- the Camino Ignaciano as it is now known.

    From Logrono to the village of Navarette, the two paths become one and then the Ignatian path veers South heading for Montserrat and Manresa and eventually Barcelona. The Camino Frances continues West toward Najera and onward about 570k to Santiago. This is our path!

    Logrono sees us leave Navarre behind and enter the next region of La Rioja- famous for its Bodegas vineyards. I'm pretty sure these would not have been around in 1522 when Ignatius passed through! I think he would have walked closer to the river, following its path to the next valley and bringing him to the next town or village. The hillsides would have been thick with forests also- a hazard for pilgrims due to being ambushed by bandits and thieves.

    It was very hot walking, without much shade and we struggled over the long stretches into Navarette. I pondered how Inigo did this with a limp! A pilgrim staff must have been a much needed piece of equipment.

    Flanked by jagged edged mountains ( what would the contour intervals be like on the map here boys?) and following the river Arga as we walked, Logrono was a lovely town with a huge Cathedral and they run bulls through the streets too- El Torro is alive and well here! See pic!

    However, I can understand Ignatius wanting to go to small villages- people are so warm. This village also had its share of trials- evidence of many sieges and attacks- no wonder they were all built on hills and fortified! Most of the old city had been ruined, the church being the only building surviving intact.

    There was also the ruins of a medieval pilgrims hospital there he probably visited- the walking must have been so difficult. Bruised feet, injury, illness, fatigue and hunger would necessitate a stop at a pilgrim hospital.
    However, no pilgrim hospital for us, a bed, a meal and sleep was all in order! We are very fortunate- these simple things were given with such kindness and care.

    Walking with Ignatius- muchos grathias and Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Signs and Signs!

    October 12, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A sign points the way..or does it? How do you know which sign to follow? Will that sign lead you to where you want to go?
    Might these be good questions to reflect on for us all as we walk our own life Camino?
    What are the signs of life for me?

    The official colours of the Camino are blue and yellow. Pilgrims must look for and follow the yellow arrows and they can be found or located anywhere!
    Painted on rocks, buildings, pathways, fences-

    The official symbol of the Camino is the scallop shell. The Christian symbol of baptism and of the Christian life journey- this symbol can be found anywhere too!
    On gates, poles, road signs, on statues, in shop windows and in many different styles.

    The trickiest times have been finding the right Markers to get in and out of large towns. Each town or city has its own design of shell too! You have to stay alert or you can take a wrong turn easily- the rule is if you haven't seen a yellow arrow or shell for about 10 minutes of walking- you're going the wrong way! We've done this once and that was enough!!

    It sometimes feels like being in the amazing race, except you don't pick up an envelope with a prize in it once you negotiate your way!

    I guess the prize of the Camino is finding your own 'Way!'

    A few examples included of the hundreds of weird and wonderful signs along the Camino- which one do you like the best!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Travelling to Burgos y Castille

    October 13, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Lost all the text when I uploaded- wifi too weak! Have to redo but in the meantime some photos of the journey to Burgos city - about 5 days walking. Forests, mountains, plateaus, plains and through rain as well as cooler temps now.Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    One third of 'The Way'- Burgos!

    October 16, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Arriving in the Castilian city of Burgos was a wonderful milestone- we had walked one third of the Camino de Santiago!

    The walk into Burgos took us down from the mountainous climb out of Atapeurca following a goat track up onto a windy plateau with a lone cross. Many pilgrims had left stones and messages there. We paused in silence, grateful for all- especially the ancient human ancestors who had lived here a millennium ago. People had created a simple stone labyrinth atop the plateau which later, some young pilgrims we met told us they had danced through!

    After descending the plateau, passing through villages nestled on the flat between hills, we followed the River Arlanzon into Burgos. Even though we'd walked down from the mountain plateau, The elevation is still quite high, around 850m.

     The trees were turning their leaves and it was refreshing to be near bush and running water after the wide stony brown paddocked terrain. I did notice a forestry sign which particularly featured the species of European viper native to the area. That quickened my step considerably- willing any stray vipers to stay in their hidey holes!!

    After walking for a week straight, a rest day to soothe the feet and muscles was in order! The famous Spanish hot chocolate and Churros was also at the top of the list! (there's a Spanish cafe in Chatswood Westfield you can try it next tine you go to the movies boys!!)

    Burgos was the seat of the Castilian Kings and the Burgos Cathedral de Santa Maria is built on the site of the old castle.

     Built in the 13th Century and added to in the 15th and 16th Centuries it is one of the most magnificent of Spain. With strong ties to the Camino de Santiago, it is a temple of art and architecture. Many artisans and artists being commissioned to adorn it with their work from all over Europe. There was a Da Vinci there of Mary Magdalene and I recognised some of the artworks of Mary some of you did for your RE assignment last term!!

    Fun Fact: like Pamplona, Burgos has bull running through the streets and also an El Torro stadium for bullfighting- July- Sept.

    Count Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, the champion was better known as EL CID, a Muslim title for respect. Born in 1040, the Camino passes the site of his house- see the pic of the gate through the walls of the city. He died recovering the city from the Moors. He must have been a remarkable person to have earned his title and remembrance from his own and enemies alike. He and his horse are interred in the Cathedral and a huge monument of him on his horse dominates a plaza near where we stayed. Try an internet search on El Cid or Burgos Cathedral or if you dare...European Vipers in Spain!

    Next part of the journey- across the Meseta. Remember those desert landforms in Geo? Mesas? We're going to walk up onto a few and across them for the next 5 days to the city of Leon. Adios amigos till then!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Across The Meseta

    October 19, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    I've heard people say that the desert is 'a nothing kind of place.' Indigenous people anywhere would tell you otherwise- especially our First Australians. I pondered this notion as we made our way for the next 5 days across the unique and somewhat isolated landscape known as the Meseta of Northern Spain.

    This area is a series of desert mesas with long stretches of 20- 27k between villages and sometimes 10-17k with no water sources. We were warned to stock up on snacks and water on these days before we left the village or town! Amazing how far you can go on water fruit, chocolate and muesli bars!

    We followed the ascent up onto the mesas. This was the way the farmers tractors went, walked along the top for ages and then down the other side into flattened valleys of stony fields being ploughed up by farmers on tractors to be bedded down for the colder months ahead.

    This isolated landscape consists of very high plains of elevations around 900- 1000m. The land is put to use and the villages along The Way are mainly agricultural, also having developed along the ancient pilgrim route for care of pilgrims from long ago and today. We were also accompanied by wind turbines flanking us on all sides of the mesas. Spain knows how to use the wind well for alternative energy sources!!!

    The tops of the mesas were very windy and a cold northerly wind bit at our faces as we longed for the next village to come into view- with the promise of a hot chocolate and a tortilla ( Spanish omelette and bread.)

    Highlights were the beautiful ruined 12th Century monastery of St Anton- Augustinian nuns who looked after and cured sick pilgrims of a disease called 'St Anton's fire.' The Tau cross of St Anton you can see in the church window was their symbol and it means love. This cross is visible on buildings, in shops, on signs throughout the neighbouring villages and must have had a significant effect on the faith and tradition of the people here over the centuries.

    Secondly, the village of Castrojeriz, nestled between mesas, with its high ruined castle. In such an isolated landscape, elevation over the village would have been essential! Have a look at the pic and see if you can identify the mesa we climbed up out of the town. We felt higher than the castle! Hey boys notice the incredible work wind and water erosion has done in forming these valleys between the mesas themselves!

    Lastly, at the town of Carrion de Los Condes, we attended a beautiful Mass and was given a personal and communal pilgrim blessing at Our Lady del Camino Church with other pilgrims. We were the only Australians! It was very moving and I Remembered you all there at Our Lady of the Way's shrine in the Church. A few pics to follow.    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    The City of Leon - halfway!

    October 22, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Reaching the city of Leon was another milestone on the Camino. We are now just over halfway to Santiago!

    During our travels across the Meseta we crossed over onto yet another provincial area- Castille y Leon. We left behind the Province of Castille y Burgos and crossed over into the surrounding agricultural region which spread out before us its table of corn, potatoes, harvested sunflowers and winter vegetable gardens and fruit trees. The Way often took us along rivers and it was very refreshing after the high plains of the Meseta.

    One day we stopped in a village for lunch with a beautiful and remarkable church built by the Templar Knights in the 1200s. Dedicated to The Virgin del Blanca, it was a very important stop for pilgrims to ask for a blessing before they arrived at the city of Leon. In those days pilgrims were vulnerable and cities were often dangerous places. It was very peaceful inside and simply decorated.

    Leon is a provincial city with a Roman heritage. Settled by the Romans it is named after the 5th Legion who was posted here and who built many of the roads and infrastructure for the city then.    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Building Bridges..

    October 24, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Have you ever tried to build a bridge? Ever wondered what might create the strongest bridge? What does it take to build a bridge that might last hundreds or ever over a thousand years? What stories surround a particular bridge and what do bridges symbolise in our own life's journey?

    I have walked over and marvelled at many bridges on this Camino, bridges from Roman times and Medieval times, however, today's walking experience prompted this reflection.

    We finished the day in a place called Hospital de Orbigo. It has the longest bridge on the Camino over the River Orbigo and its flood plain. It connects both sides of the town. It is a 13th Century bridge built over an original Roman bridge and one of the best preserved in Spain. See first and second pic.

    The story of the bridge goes like this: Built in the Holy Year of 1434, a noble knight from Leon, Don Sueto de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, challenged any knight to pass and undertook to defend the bridge and also his honour. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge, Don Suero successfully defended the bridge.. and presumably his honour, for a month until the required 300 lances had been broken. He and his companions then set off to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honour now restored!

    This town also witnessed the battle in 452 between the Visigoths and the Swabians, battles between the Medieval Christian forces and the Moors, as well as being a major trade route across the bridge since Roman times, especially in livestock.

    On the far side of the bridge, dating back to the Knights, the ancient order of St John Calleberos Hospitaleros set up and maintained a pilgrim hospital there- hence the naming of the town which developed as a result.

    Due to the history of Knighthood here, there is a Jousting tournament each year, which takes place in the arena set up by the bridge. See if you can spot it in the first pic! How's that for a bridge over a river story!

    Secondly, another remarkable bridge we encountered on the Camino in the first ten days, was at a place called Puente la Reina. See third pic.

    This bridge was significant because it was built primarily to provide safe access to the other side of the river for pilgrims on their way to Santiago. Before the bridge was built, unscrupulous river men would promise a pilgrim safe passage by boat. Once halfway across, the unsuspecting pilgrim would be robbed of any value they possessed and thrown overboard to be drowned. Very few pilgrims made it across. The bridge was obviously much needed then!!

    This bridge or Puente is extremely high and remarkably steep. As I observed from below, it's pylons are built to resist flood, featuring an ingenious arched recess to relieve the pressure of high water on the arch of the bridge, whilst being aesthetically pleasing too! From above as you cross the bridge, with every step, the long view of the landscape rises and gives a sense of perspective of how far and where you've come from, but also of freedom as the bridge descends and delivers you safely to the other side, ready to resume the journey ahead.

    So what does a bridge symbolise for us in our life journey? Perhaps a safe passage, a place to stop and take the long view, a change in perspective. Might the experiences which carry us from one learning to another be a bridge too?

    There are also people in our lives that provide bridges for us- our family, friends, those who walk with us.
    These people can teach us that the experience of reconciliation, justice and peace is about bridgemaking. As we grow, we can become bridges to love, peace and justice for others and the world.
    We are a pilgrim people walking our life's journey together, creating bridges for each other and encouraged to live by the message of the gospel.

    St Ignatius Loyola walked across many bridges in his life. He, like our own St Mary MacKillop became a bridge for others, inspired by their relationship with Jesus and the message of the gospel.
    They point us to Jesus, who assures us ' I am the Way, the Truth and the Life ' Jn 14:6

    Might Jesus also be 'the Bridge' too?

    What's your experience of bridges and bridge building?    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Astorga

    October 25, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The journey to Astorga from Leon was marked by some days of walking in light rain. The countryside had that earthy smell that rain brings. The walking was mostly through corn fields and farming communities. Long flat stretches, mainly along roads connecting village after village.

    It was a different experience to be walking alongside private hunting reserves also! This was a different experience! At times we heard the hunters gun explode the silence In the nearby scrub and this quickened our step considerably!! Later we were told that the quarry was pheasant!

    From here on we were to walk through many pathways which were flanked by hunting reserves. One afternoon, while walking through the late afternoon, a lost hunting dog followed us along the path. It was a plucky little beagle! She sniffed the air continually, then realising we were of no use to her in finding the pack, turned around from us and howled! As we continued on our way, we could still hear her howling for the pack and her owner, still out on the reserve! The howling echoed across the hills so loudly, I was certain she would be found and that this may have happened before!!

    On arriving in Astorga, we found a city with a distinctly Roman flavour. Set atop a steep ridge the city still has some of its medieval walls surrounding and was important during Roman times as it was the junction of several important routes for trade and transportation. The Camino also meets the via Aquitana and the Roman silver route, the via de La Plata which comes up from Seville. There were 20 pilgrim hospitals in medieval times there! By the time they reached Astorga, they would be in great need of help!!

    The great architect Gaudi also designed the bishops palace there but he died before he could enjoy it! It is now the Museum of Pilgrimage! See pic. Trattorias and Pizzerias abound there, but the most important thing about Astorga I think, is that it is famous for its chocolate, complete with a chocolate museum! This pilgrim definitely did not miss out!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Ponferrada

    October 29, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    To reach Ponferrada we had to climb up into a mountain range which would take us to the highest point on the Camino, a place called Cruz de Ferro. At 1500m elevation, we had walked up through forested mountains again dotted on their ridges and peaks by wind turbines- out only markers, like sentinels, the larger they loomed, the closer we knew we were to the top!

    Cruz de Ferro is an iron cross at which pilgrims leave something of themselves ( usually a stone as a symbol) behind at the foot of the cross to symbolise this part of their pilgrimage. It was a very quiet and peaceful place surrounded by pines and wooded glades. We stood and remembered those who had gone before us and all those we loved.

    We also had a local sheep dog befriend us on the path up the mountain. See pic. These dogs were traditionally used by local farmers to protect their sheep and cows from mountain wolves. He stayed with us for about 8k and led us up the mountain path, which was single file through scrub and trees. Every now and then he would stop to turn and check on us as we puffed up the rocky path after him. Whoever said that a companion on the Camino had to be human! I will never forget this lovely affectionate Camino dog who made it his business to look after us on The Way.

    Inevitably, 'what must go up- must come down!' echoed in our ears as we commenced a very steep descent of 900m in 11k. This steep descent pocketed by villages along the way led us out of the mountains and down to the city of Ponferrada which is the capital of the El Bierzo region In Castille de Leon. It is hemmed in by mountains and sits at the head of a very long valley stretching out ahead of us like a canvas. It would take us the next 3 days to walk the length of it!

    Ponferrada's history was both Roman as it was an important settlement and also Medieval. Its name derives from its bridge built in 1082, the first to be built of iron. Hence, Pons Ferrata became Ponferrada.
    It also has a most magnificent castle with an interesting history and was declared a national monument!

    In the 1100s the Templar Knights were made custodians of Ponferrada by King Fernando in 1178. Having inherited the original fort here, the Templar Knights built it into something much larger. Not long after they were, sadly dissolved. The castle stands as a monument to them and their protection of the city and especially the pilgrims who travelled through it on their way to Santiago.See Pic.    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Upward to O'Cebriero!

    November 1, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Having walked along the valley floor from Ponferrada through rural villages, farms and vegetable gardens, we began the gradual climb upward over the next mountain rim. This would take us the next three days and eventually lead us out of Castille y Leon and into the picturesque Province of Galicia.

    Archeologists and Geologists are continuing to confirm and investigate further the existence of a land bridge that once connected Ireland with this part of Northern Spain. This accounts for the similarities in Geology, Culture and the people of Galicia. The luscious green hills and stone walled paddocks with cows and sheep grazing peacefully is not unlike Ireland at all! It was not uncommon for us to pass through a rural village with Irish tunes being played in a cafeteria!

    Our destination was a very special stop on the Camino at a village called O'Cebreiro at an elevation of 1330m. This mountainous climb is the second highest of the Camino and almost as strenuous and steep as the climb over the Pyrenees.

    Usually at this time of year this area would be under fog or even snow, however due to unseasonal temperatures we were blessed to have good weather and be able to experience the spectacular beauty of this mountain environment in all its autumn glory.

    The reds and golds and greens of the forest were breathtaking at times. We walked through a forest of giant chestnut trees, the falling of their treasured nuts and seeds along with the chatter of birds being the only sounds made.

    It was wonderful to stop and experience another kind of natural beauty other than the familiar sights, sounds and smells of our own Australian bush - so far away from here! Boys, I can only describe these Galician mountains and their forests as the kind of forests from Harry Potter movies and books!

    We reached the village of O'Cerbreiro in the mid afternoon and what a surprise awaited us! Being in the Province of Galicia now, the village was an expression of Celtic Culture and history.

     The buildings were reminiscent of old Ireland with original thatched rooves and slate bricked houses, shops selling all things Irish and of course pilgrim wares. Built into the side of the mountain top some pilgrims remarked 'this is like something straight out of The Hobbit!' Every building we went into you had to duck your head!

    Most importantly though, there was a monastery here since the 10th Century and reportedly, St Francis of Assisi came through here making his own pilgrimage to Santiago some 200 years later.

    The Church obviously has a Franciscan history, however, we also learned of a miraculous history. An approved miracle happened here when a priest commented harshly to a farmer who had risked his life under bad weather to come up for Mass saying that he should not have come in the poor weather for the bread and the wine. At that moment the bread and wine became the real body and blood of Jesus. At the same time the statue of Mary now called Santa Maria de Real, inclined her head and smiled. She was a very warm and beautiful image with a lovely smile on her lips. I lit a candle here and remembered you all in front of her statue. It was the Feast of All Saints that day.

    Another special significance was that it was the Parish Priest of O'Cebreiro who personally travelled the Camino and placed all the markers to make the modern pilgrimage more accessible than that of old. The yellow arrows and Plinths were his idea. Thank God for him!!

    Setting off from O'Cebreiro, we climb upward 200m or so and then begin the steep descent over the following day. We are now in our last week of walking the Camino! In 7 days and 156km from here we will reach our destination of Santiago de Compostella!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Sarria - The Final Stage!

    November 3, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Sarria represents the final significant stage on the Camino de Compostela. It is approximately 130km from Santiago and must be reached through a steep descent from a series of 'Altos' or mountain peaks, hills and alpine hamlets. The journey was really a journey upward and downward as we summitted the 'Alto de Roque' at 1230m, 'Alto do Poio' at 1330m, 'Alto Riocabo' at 905m before arriving at Sarria at 440m.

    The Galician countryside was so picturesque! Walking through farming villages, seeing cows being handmilked in the barns, chickens and roosters heralding our arrival and large farm dogs sleeping like sentinel guards for the village. As we approached, one sleepy eye would open and close, allowing us to pass without the dog moving from the middle of the road!

    One other highlight was walking through beautiful mountain woodland forest. See pic. Unlike our Australian bush, these places are very quiet, the only sounds are small birds and the breeze blowing the rust coloured leaves. Only the peal of mountain hunting sometimes broke the silence.

    Arriving at Sarria, we found a town with Celtic origins which had been a major centre for medieval pilgrims with several churches, monasteries and 7 pilgrim hospitals. We explored the old quarter of the town, which had to be climbed upwards of 50 stairs! Believe me, that's not easy after a 25k days walk!
    Unfortunately, the weather turned sour that night and it was too wet to see the ancient castle ruins or the monastery of St Magdalena.

    Many pilgrims make Sarria their starting point and from here, it is a requirement to complete the Camino and receive your 'Compostela' or certificate, you must get 2 stamps per day until you reach Santiago.
    To date our credentials were adorned with coloured stamps from Churches, shops, cafes, hostels and Albergues. The challenge now was to get 2 or more per day!    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Portomarin

    November 4, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The beautiful clear, cool days of the previous week in the high mountains finally came to an end. Walking in rain and at times fog and mist helped us appreciate why Galicia is so green and lush! I was also to learn through my stone bruised feet, that by the time we were to reach Santiago a few days later, that this final stage would not be an easy one.

    Most of the 22km walk to the town of Portomarin took us via country roads and tree lined pathways. Again we climbed up to Alto Paramo at 660m and then a steep descent to cross the Rio Mino at 330m would yield an interesting story about its town.

    As you can see in the pics, this river carved a steep mountain valley fed by upper streams and small rivers as well as snow coming from even higher. Testament to the power of this river are the remnants of medieval bridges and the old town whose ruins lay on its banks.

    In recent years, the original town was moved to higher ground on the opposite side of the valley to make way for the damming of the river and creation of a reservoir. Evidence of flood after flood and erosion was everywhere as we made the final climb up into the old town.

    The Romanesque church of San Juan with links to the knights of St John was painstakingly rebuilt stone by stone when it was moved to make way for the reservoir. On the stones you can see the corresponding numbers to assist the rebuilding of this 10th Century church, literally, stone by stone!

    The last pic shows an interesting structure. Walking through the rural villages with their lush vegetable gardens, cows and chickens, these structures became a part of the landscape of every farmhouse and household. Can you guess what they are used for?    Read more

  • Mary DigginsCamino 2016Mary Diggins

    Palas de Rei to Santiago de Compostela!

    November 5, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Palas de Rei- Melide-Arzua-Arca do Pino

    The next four days was a gradual and lengthened descent from the town of Palas De Rei at 560m to 260m elevation at our final destination of Santiago de Compostela. However, the Camino was never without a few steep hills here and there thrown in for good measure!

    These were days of crossing shallow river valleys, clambering over stones and rocks as we crossed small babbling streams and walking through woodland forests. The countryside was beautiful and that vibrant green of the grass in the meadows was always so uplifting.

    One of the most memorable and surprising of this stage was the Eucalypt forests we walked through. We learned later, that these trees were grown for the wood pulp industry.

    The strange sensation was that it felt like being home in our Australian bush, but there was nothing Australian about this environment! The trees were planted in rows and the only sound was an occasional robin darting across the pathway. Our Australian bush is so noisy- but here, not an animal, a bird, an insect. No wonder the early Europeans in our country documented that they nearly were driven mad by the noise and strangeness of the environment!

    Still, it was comforting to be walking over fallen gum leaves strewn across the pathway, like a red carpet paving our way to Santiago de Compostela.    Read more

  • Trip end
    November 9, 2016
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