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  • Day 125

    Nong Khai: Bliss on the Mekong

    January 15, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    What a surprise of a lovely town is Nong Khai! I stayed a total of six days, and enjoyed myself enormously in the Isãn northeast of Thailand. Pinch in the map to see where it is in the country. The Mekong River is its charm and delight. I found a guest house practically on the river promenade, so I could walk every day, admiring the flow and expanse, and lovely Laos on the opposite bank.

    A story for you. Saturday, January 12th was Children’s Day. I spent the morning at the Nong Khai Aquarium, admiring the variety of Mekong River fish in the large tank. A program was going on outside for children, with two ladyboys as MC’s. Interesting. So when I got back to the center of Nong Khai I went to another program at the City Hall, which featured dance troupes, prizes, gags and food—all for kids. This is where my story begins.

    Next to me at the program was a nine-year-old boy. He held a balloon between his knees, and was slurping a sticky red ice concoction as he watched the program. He dutifully got up to throw away his trash, get a drink of water, and play with his balloon before returning to his seat. As he sat down, his balloon escaped. It went bouncing down the aisle, and was caught by a little girl who looked to be three years old. She was surprised and delighted. The boy’s mother quickly said to him, “You’ll let her have it, won’t you.” He quickly nodded. Then I watched him. His face turned red, his ears turned red, and his eyes filled with tears. He pulled a Buddhist amulet on a chain from under his shirt, and clasped it between his hands. His hands were shaking. He mouthed a prayer, and though his tears did not spill out of his eyes, his hands shook more. I looked away, and the program ended. He and his mother disappeared in the crowd. I myself wept as I walked home.

    Another event. In this new town, I lost my impetus to talk to strangers. Everyone was warm and friendly to me, but I lost it. After cramming in vocabulary review for a few hours in a coffee shop, I felt very blue indeed. I decided to go visit the woman who had washed and blow-dried my hair two days before; she seemed friendly, and a beauty parlor is a sociable place. When I entered, she was there alone, and was happy to see me. She told me that her boyfriend, a barber living 250 miles away, was on his way for a five-day visit, and wouldn’t it be nice if we could go out for “shabu-shabu” together. (It’s a Japanese hot-pot, international it seems..) Of course I agreed, and at 5 PM met them and we drove along the Mekong to a bustling restaurant. It was my first experience in Thailand being only with Thais in a social setting! Although my listening comprehension is awful for “real Thai,” Nai and Dom were persistant in getting their meanings across to me. We ate and ate. So much fun, so friendly. My good spirits returned, and have buoyed me ever since.

    And so I lived happily until leaving for Bangkok, my next story. More about Nong Khai is revealed in the photos, though...
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