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- Día 38
- jueves, 11 de abril de 2019
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitud: 659 p
ChilePuerto Rio Tranquilo46°37’27” S 72°40’34” W
Puerto Rio Tranquilo and Marble Caves
11 de abril de 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Lago General Carrera is the largest lake in South America, and is shared with Argentina—where it’s called Lago Buenos Aires. The Carretera Austral runs down along the exquisite western part of the lake, and I stopped to visit the hamlet of Puerto Rio Tranquilo to see the famous Marble Caves.
One has to see them by boat, so upon my arrival I hurriedly booked a trip there—to take advantage of the lovely afternoon light, and to avoid a day of rain forecast for the morrow. The marble caves and other formations are truly remarkable—carved by glacial movement into quite exotic shapes. The marble is “young,” soft, and not the type that Michelangelo carved. A marvelous tour.
The town itself, with its 350-person population, was of interest to me as well. I stayed in a hostal with other foreigners, which I at first abhorred. Why? The shared bathroom for one. But also, if I am in Chile, I want to meet Chileans—not a bunch of foreigners like myself. HOWEVER, I developed a much better attitude by talking to the lovely owners, a family from the north, a French jazz violinist, a French enthusiast of Namibian music and song (both of these Frenchmen entertained us with their skills); a young Japanese man who quit his job and was slipping into volunteer work to re-invent himself, a pair of young women working for a mining company up north in Chile’s Atacama area, etc. I can see why the hostal experience has been so important for so many travelers.
I made a new friend in town, an ex-veterinarian who runs a campground and sightseeing boat service. And I also enjoyed walking around and seeing such things as the very atmospheric cemetery. You’ll see what I mean in the picture section.
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- Día 31
- jueves, 4 de abril de 2019
- ⛅ 10 °C
- Altitud: 932 p
ChileCoihaique45°34’12” S 72°3’56” W
Coyhaique and Villa Cerro Castillo
4 de abril de 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
Coyhaique is the “capital” of Northern Patagonia. With a population of 50,000, it’s considered a “real” city in this part of the country. I first stayed in an Airbnb lodging with a single mother and her 12-year-old daughter, inconveniently located a mile from the center. I was placed in the daughter’s room—no space whatsoever for my things—just the floor and the bed and a shared bath. However, the mother was so articulate, friendly, and generous, that I forgave her the inconveniences—though I did mention them to her in my private review for Airbnb. She had just lost her job in town, after the new federal government administration kicked out of her long-held job. So I could tell that she was quite desperate for anyone to rent the room. I have found that this is often the case in the rooms I’m taking. Many single mothers eking out a living.
Coyhaique is set in a very beautiful valley, so I was eager to explore the huge “National Reserve” a few kilometers away. It had a well-set-out circular trail of around twelve miles, with much variety of scenery, and mainly native plants. Three different varieties of pine trees were planted in Patagonia in the 1950’s to quickly fill in the losses from various forest fires. Bad idea: the pine trees have multiplied so rapidly that they are out of control in many areas. They are used for paper pulp and firewood, mostly, but they are not native, and blemish the landscape. I did love the Reserve, though.
After two nights with the kind mother and daughter, I moved to a hostel. In a hostel? Me? I chose one that was run by an elderly couple. I took a few peaceful days there with strong wifi to finish my Thai Add1Advance Challenge and my Day90 video of a conversation with a native speaker. It was a surprise to me that I could speak Thai at all, with 99% of my day speaking only Spanish. A miracle. In the process, I discovered many great cafés—some of which did NOT serve instant coffee.
I moved south by bus on the Carretera Austral (the main—and sometimes only— road in Patagonia, built during the Pinochet dictatorship) to Villa Cerro Castillo, a village of 2500 souls, with high jagged peaks definitely resembling a castle. My lodging was a boarding house for twenty-four men working in the area. I didn’t know this when I accepted the room, loving the view of the “castle,”and the price: $15 per night. I soon found out that there were no locks on the doors, no heating at all, and the bathroom was shared with the guys—way way down a steep ladder-like staircase. The elderly couple that ran the place gave the men three home-cooked meals a day, including hot bread from the oven at lunch and dinner. The husband was the “panadero,” making well over a hundred 3” X 3” “ayuyas”—flat Chilean-style rolls—per day, using two wood-burning ovens. Such an experience!
The hike to the peaks was a trail leading straight up 1000 meters—3,280 feet—again across a lovely and varied terrain. I found myself wildly out-of-shape after five months mostly sitting down to study Thai. This situation was to change rapidly! The hike was as rewarding as the hot “ayuya” I ate with my usual vegetables upon my return.
Please enjoy the photos, and don’t forget to sign your first name if your leave a comment.Leer más
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- Día 29
- martes, 2 de abril de 2019, 20:29
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitud: 30 p
ChilePuerto Aisén45°24’15” S 72°42’10” W
A Ferry to Aysén, Northern Patagonia
2 de abril de 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
From Puerto Montt, I rode a bus all the way down the island of Chiloé, Latin America´s largest island, to the small city of Quellón. It is the starting point for a few ferries going south through southern Chile’s islands and fjords. I took a look around the city for the day, walking eleven miles or so, until it was time for my ferry to leave at 11 PM.
I thought it would be quite an adventure to take this 28-hour “cruise” to tiny and isolated ports in Chilean Patagonia. It wasn’t quite an “adventure,” or a “cruise,” but it was very educational. On the boat, all passengers sat in reclining seats, and at night we could sleep all we liked. During the day, movies were showing constantly on many screens, but we were free to walk around on the decks to see the islands. OK, most of the time we had an excellent view of fog, BUT thanks to my binoculars, I sighted two curious seals who bobbed up and down to have a look at the boat, as well as many birds.
At every port there was great drama. Evidently, the arrival of the ferry was highly anticipated, as people were either coming home or leaving it. Also, trucks full of all sorts of needed supplies drove off the ramp. I saw some people receive a case of homemade apple cider (7-proof) who opened it and started drinking it right at the landing! There was also a great quantity of beer that was unloaded. Anyway, it was fun to watch, and most passengers tore themselves away from the Disney film on the screens to watch the landing action.
I also spoke with many people. A French couple in their 30’s were biking around the world for two years, and South America was the end of their journey. They were open and delightful: international personalities. I spoke with a Chilean agronomist who was raising bees to sell the honey, and was also saving money for a special machine to artificially inseminate the queen so as to produce mixed breeds. There was a Syrian immigrant working for a transport company—grateful for Chile’s welcome, and his escape from his war-torn country. Etc. I love finding out what people do, and what is important to them.
After landing in Puerto Chacabuco, I took a shared taxi to the small city of Aysén and my Airbnb property. My hostess and Patagonia guide, Sandra, advised me to visit the Rio Simpson National Reserve, a lovely trail along the river which charted the course of the settlers to the region. And the following day, she and her friend Sergio, another guide, took me out all day to see very beautiful local sights dear to their hearts. I am so glad to be where the air is pure, and the countryside is so stunning.
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Yet more exciting adventures! We are having to make do with the ever changing weather - after some amazing warm days back to hail and frost! x Rosemary
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- Día 24
- jueves, 28 de marzo de 2019, 9:30
- ☁️ 9 °C
- Altitud: 112 p
ChilePuerto Montt41°29’12” S 72°58’14” W
Welcome to Chile, and Northern Patagonia
28 de marzo de 2019, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
I crossed the Andes! By bus, between the cities of Mendoza, Argentina, and Santiago, Chile, on March 25, 2019. By lucky chance, I sat in the “panorama seats,” right at the front of the bus, and blessed by clean windows, the mountains unfolded. After a two-hour border crossing (every single bag of every passenger was scanned, in addition to the usual passport/visa checking) we had the real adventure: a series of twenty-four switchbacks called “el caracol,” the snail. Truly terrifying. Check out the video in the photo section, which doesn’t even begin to record the experience.
After a few hours in the main bus terminal in Santiago (a highlight was a large plate of vegetables for dinner) I was on an overnight bus south to Puerto Montt in the Lake District, and just north of the beginning of Northern Patagonia. In Chile, Patagonia is divided into north and south; for this trip, I decided to limit myself to the northern section.
Puerto Montt has an interesting history—as a specially designated sector for German immigrants in the 1800’s, and as leading producer of farmed salmon. Now it’s the capital of the the Los Lagos Region, and an important administrative center in southern Chile. For more information, see this link:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Montt
I stayed with an excellent Airbnb family, who originally hailed from Antofagasta in the very north of Chile. Mariana, the wife, kept getting teary-eyed when she saw me, as I evidently greatly resemble her late grandmother. Rodrigo, the husband, was the handsomest man I’ve seen in a long time—an ex-army officer. They looked after me with great care and affection AND we had very interesting conversations as well.
On my own, I planned my travels, walked around the small city, took care of business—such as getting a Chilean SIM card—and took a hike on the island of Tenglo, which is just across a narrow canal. A very fine welcome to Chile.
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We travelled from Columbia to Bolivia through the Andes by bus!! Probably the most terrifying day experience of my life. The bus drivers were absolutely crazy and the roads really narrow!! Glad you arrived safely!! Love Susan S and Poppy xxx

I can remember the dreadful headache and sick feeling crossing Hannibal’s route through the alps. Switchbacks are not for me! Rosemary x

How are you getting on with the accent? Gosh, I miss "my" Chile! Nice weather as well. James.
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- Día 20
- domingo, 24 de marzo de 2019
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Altitud: 3.579 p
ArgentinaTupungato33°21’49” S 69°8’39” W
Tupungato, Lovely Argentine Town
24 de marzo de 2019, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
I am in the town of Tupungato, in Mendoza Province, in western Argentina for my second visit in three years. My purpose was to visit the Sánchez family, whose criollo horsemanship was evident in the prior blog. I also wanted to enjoy small-town life in my usual fashion of walking around, meeting people and talking, and of course studying.
During my stay, I also visited the city of Mendoza, the capital of the province. The city center has such densely-shaded streets that I thought I was in another small town. Bad luck for all of you that I’m not a wine connoisseur, as this province is the Wine Capital of Argentina, and many of the best Argentine wines are produced from grapes grown in the region.
As a matter of fact, the two sons of Carlos Sánchez live on the grounds of a medium-size vineyard/vacation home/criollo horse-training center, where all three of them work full-time. Taking care of seventy horses is heavy work, and they are currently looking for another helper. But the aspect is stunning, with the Andes in the west—a splendid backdrop for the vineyards, and indeed for Tupungato itself.
Joining an extended family is usually not an easy task for me, or for many travelers, for that matter. As this was my second visit, I was warmly welcomed, treated to many maté-drinking sessions, and invited to a few large family gatherings. Indeed, the contrast between the ease of making friends with families here in Argentina and the challenges I face in doing the same in Thailand are the topic of my Week 10 video for my Add1Challenge. And yes—I am still studying Thai with enthusiastic energy! Here is the link to the “family video,” under three minutes, and with subtitles:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjg_HYcFH5E
And here are some photos and one video, which I hope you enjoy. Please sign your first name if you leave a comment.Leer más

Man, I want to go there and learn to ride! Just don't make me be the one in the middle - I'd get dizzy! - Leslie
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- Día 3
- jueves, 7 de marzo de 2019
- ⛅ 32 °C
- Altitud: 1.781 p
ArgentinaJesús María30°58’27” S 64°5’42” W
First, Argentina: Criollo Horses!
7 de marzo de 2019, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
After about two and a half years, I returned to Argentina—a prelude to my trip Chile—to see my friend Carlos Sanchez ride competitively for the last time in the national semifinals of criollo horsemanship. He has won endless competitions on the local and national level in Argentina; now, because of the age limit imposed by the Association of Breeders of Criollo Horses, this was his swan song. I joined his wife, Rosa, son, Hugo, daughter, Blanca, and son-in-law, Simon, in the small town of Jesús María, an hour north of Córdoba in the center of the country.
The competition was a four-day affair, with four main events: morphology (judging each horse’s conformation) two events of set movements, and one two-part event called “corral de aparte.” I am more a fan of the horses than of the events. This breed is exquisitely agile, as you will see from the videos I have included in the photo section, and of great beauty, intelligence and endurance. I got to watch them every day for hours and hours: a horse-lover’s heaven.
I did take some time to revisit one of the Jesuit estancias, ranches which supported the Jesuits’ ever-amazing teaching and settling efforts. A block of these estancias and the churches connected with them make up a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more information, click on this link: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jesuit_Block_an…
And then, I was back with Argentines! In Jesús María I rediscovered the charm, the articulateness, the conversational abilities and—let me say it again, the CHARM of these people. When I opened my mouth, my strange accent in Spanish was apparent—a rewardingly excellent conversation-starter. I had many interesting encounters as a result. So nice to be back!
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So happy you made it to Argentina. I know how much you were looking forward to it. Chili awaits you with open arms. Thailand misses you. How could it not? Enjoy your travels.
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- Día 163
- viernes, 22 de febrero de 2019
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Altitud: 981 p
TailandiaChang Klan18°46’22” N 98°59’35” E
Goodbye to Chiang Mai--for now
22 de febrero de 2019, Tailandia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
I am leaving Chiang Mai, “the Rose of the North,” after a stay of four months and two weeks—the fifth month being my journey around the country from mid-January to mid-February. I am sad to leave. Oh, I know, the air is frightfully polluted, the country is in extreme difficulties, there is huge disparity in the wealth of the populace, and trouble abounds. I will always be a “farang,” a white foreigner. And Thai is a difficult language for all of us who try to learn.
BUT IT IS SUCH A PLEASANT PLACE TO LIVE! I may be a farang with terrible Thai, but when I said goodbye to my Thai friends this week, they were genuinely sad, and so was I. In fact, when I said goodbye to everyone, they were ALL sad, and so was I. I shall come back in the “cold season,” next November, December and January. I shall study in Chiang Mai, spend the Loy Grathon Festival in Sukhothai, and go exploring around the country again. And maybe I’ll arrive earlier and stay later.
There is just something about this country.... It reaches a part of me that needs the warmth—and yes, the detachment too. It gives me a fabulous puzzle of a language of the heart, of “jai, ใจ,” with a script to match: beautiful, intricate, full of hidden meanings, accessible until it suddenly isn’t. And when I am left stranded by meaning and understanding, here comes a Thai person who says, “But you WILL be back in November, won’t you? Won’t you?”
I will.
Here are some end-of-journey photos:Leer más

What a lovely tribute to your adopted country. Looking forward to seeing you soon. Fondly, Mary
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- Día 152
- lunes, 11 de febrero de 2019, 12:58
- 🌫 32 °C
- Altitud: 190 p
TailandiaKhlong Mae Ramphan17°0’32” N 99°49’18” E
Going Backwards in Time: Sukhothai
11 de febrero de 2019, Tailandia ⋅ 🌫 32 °C
I loved Sukhothai. My stay was only five days long, but I liked it so much I promised everyone that I’d return for the lovely Loy Grathom Festival in mid-November. Why did I like this city? Because it was small (37,000 people) compact, had fairly clean air, and was extremely friendly. My Airbnb property was a giant room that was very dark, cool and restful at night, and liveable outside in the patio by day. My hosts lived about three blocks away, and I hung out with them most evenings. A very sweet couple. There was no wifi or kitchen in my place—somehow I’d overlooked that—but my “in” with the neighborhood overruled such inconveniences.
Of course, Sukhothai’s real draw is it’s ruins: it was the first capital of Siam, in the 13th and 14th centuries. To reach them you have to get on a little shuttle bus for a 12-kilometer ride. The grounds are massive, and I confess that I only made the trip there one day, where I saw the National Museum and one enormous temple. I found that I’m not so fond of seeing temples in 96-degree weather (see the last post) and I’m very sorry to confess that I’m not a great fan of ruins. Historical fiction will do the trick for me if it’s good. But don’t pay any attention to me. Here’s a wonderful write-up about Sukhothai from the UNESCO site:
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/574
What I really liked was hanging out in the neighborhood—without the company of French, Dutch, German, Chinese, Spanish, Latin American and American tourists. Just me, alone with my 5-month-old Thai, having an excellent time with all I talked to. I went to a beauty parlor for the first pedicure of my life, and ended up getting my hair washed, blow-dried and trimmed as well, because the atmosphere was so chatty and fun. Two cousins of my host ran a “som dtam” stand—a kind of spicy papaya salad—and I became addicted to the salad AND the sisters who made it every evening. I also went to a “breakfast street-food buffet” at the urging of a very nice woman who sat on a table the rest of the day preparing vegetables. Her English was excellent. At breakfast, there were ten separate large containers of food to choose from, plus rice, and to my great surprise, each dish was more delicious than the other! How did she do it?
Anyway, even in only five days, I felt that I “lived” in Sukhothai, and that is my overall goal of my international adventure as well.
Please enjoy the photos and “skill” video.Leer más
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- Día 142
- viernes, 1 de febrero de 2019, 11:53
- ⛅ 30 °C
- Altitud: 49 p
TailandiaRoyal Elephant Kraal and Village14°21’27” N 100°34’28” E
A Part of My Heart Stays in Ayutthaya
1 de febrero de 2019, Tailandia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
Ayutthaya is located in the Central Plains of Thailand, eighty miles north of Bangkok. It is a two-in-one place: a historic city (UNESCO World Heritage Center) preserving what was the capital of Thailand from 1350-1767, and a modern city. I tried to enjoy both cities in the week I spent there.
The historic city is truly breathtaking. Although I am not fond of tromping around ruins in glaring 96-degree F (35.5 C) heat, they are so impressive and beautiful that I was immediately smitten. I went to the National Museum of Ayutthaya first, to see the treasures which were recovered, and then to a few large portions of the historic park. The UNESCO site has a wonderful description, if you’re interested. Here’s the link: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/576
My Ayutthaya Airbnb property deserves a bravo. I lived in a room of a very small house in the back of a restaurant. Tom and Nick, the proprietors, were both excellent cooks and highly-interesting people. Tom, a Russian/Canadian, has a degree in East Asian Studies from Moscow University, and speaks Thai at the highest level. He and I had some very interesting conversations about the ancient capital, and the Thai language, people and customs, Nick loves cooking, and studies constantly. They are comfortably middle-aged. I ate all of my meals there (breakfast and dinner) because they cooked exactly what I wanted, with no additives, little meat, great flavors, and much imagination.
Otherwise, I spent my days first visiting a “notable site,” then studying Thai like a maniac in welcoming air conditioned places (as I’m in another Add1Challenge) and chatting in the evenings with guests at the restaurant. Before the Burmese conquered Ayutthaya in 1767, many foreign traders came to live in the city, who were numerous enough to have their own villages. I made a special pilgrimage to the remains of the Japanese and Portuguese settlements in their honor. All in all, a wonderful week.
Enjoy the photos!Leer más
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- Día 139
- martes, 29 de enero de 2019, 17:34
- ☀️ 31 °C
- Altitud: 33 p
TailandiaSam Sen13°46’54” N 100°31’0” E
Visiting Bangkok "Dorée Style"
29 de enero de 2019, Tailandia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
I am so busy LIVING in each place I visit, that sometimes I forget what a driven traveler I used to be—how seeing as many important places as possible was. Now I am so much more relaxed. I did have two purposes in visiting Bangkok, though: 1) to see the locations of two celebrated works of Thai fiction I read (translated into English, of course) and 2) to practice my Thai in the heart of the “Central Dialect,” chosen to be standard Thai for the entire country. (There are four main dialects in the country.)
The first novel which inspired me, “Letters from Bangkok,” by Botan (a woman) told the story of a Chinese immigrant to Thailand in the years 1900-1965, through his letters home to his mother in China. It tells how the Chinese learned to be the worker bees in their new country, married Thais, and assimilated. I’m sure the exact same story might be only slightly updated to be true today. Botan, pen name of Suba Sirisingh, is still alive today, writing, and has published more than sixty novels!
So my first pilgrimage was to the Chinatown described in her book, a crowded, messy, stubbornly-not-to-be-gentrified part of central Bangkok. I was so overwhelmed by the busyness, the crowded narrow streets and the endless food stands, that I took not a single picture. Just go there!
The second work was an amazing novel called “Four Reigns,” by Kukrit Pramoj. It takes its heroine through four kings of Thailand, up to the modern era, describing her life first in the Royal Court, and then in a nearby Bangkok neighborhood. Mr. Pramoj was also a politician, journalist, actor, and polymath regarding traditional Thai arts. So, I had to visit his house, which has been made a special landmark in Bangkok. It consists of five separate wooden buildings in Thai style, and are beautifully laid out. To my great surprise and intense pleasure, his younger brother actually emerged from a room, and we had a very nice conversation. He is very old indeed, but spoke perfect American English, his first language. He told me about his brother’s contact with a relative who worked in the Royal Palace, and how he was able to extricate many details of court life from her. For more information about Kukrit Pramoj, read here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kukrit_Pramoj
Another excursion was to see the Museum of the Royal Barges. These elegant long-tail boats are being readied for the coronation of the new King of Thailand some time in February? March? No one seems to know. The restorers were hard at work, and I interviewed one of them. She unfortunately had great difficulty in understanding my Thai (my teacher later explained why it was unintelligible to her) but I persevered anyway. Here is a link to this 2-minute video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ka5gZ0rUQQI&t…
I also met up with Kittichai (in charge of technical support for my Add1Challenge) and his lovely girlfriend for dinner at Terminal 21, a huge shopping mall near the Skytrain station of Siam. We ate sukiyaki, and they generously allowed me to stumble around in Thai for a few hours.
Otherwise, I just walked around and had a good look at the city—sabai-sabai—so relaxed!
Enjoy the photos...Leer más
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- Día 129
- sábado, 19 de enero de 2019, 17:09
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Altitud: 33 p
TailandiaSam Sen13°46’54” N 100°31’1” E
Bangkok with a New Attitude
19 de enero de 2019, Tailandia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Bangkok! When I visited in April 2017, I disliked this city intensely, but these past two weeks have been wonderful! Such a change took place in my attitude because of my location in the Dusit District—a laid-back, luxurious, friendly, open, and welcoming place. I didn’t really see the “luxurious,” knowing that the stately homes were behind those high gates and walls. But the streets! If you pinch out the map, and examine the main road in front of the tiny lane where my apartment was located, imagine it thick with food stalls, chatty and genial people managing them, dogs, cats, and absolutely delicious smells in the air. It goes on for a kilometer—almost to the Chao Praya River, where my Express Ferry stopped at the Payap Pier. This was my stomping ground.
My Airbnb apartment was huge and comfortable. Here is a link for a “tour” in Thai with English subtitles!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qoP0FE-JCOc
In the photo section is a video of my fruit seller in action with a very sharp knife—I was so fearful she’d cut off her fingers, and we’d have to collect them from the sidewalk! Anyway, please see the photos and captions for more information about lovely “Khet Dusit.” My Bangkok excursions will be in the next footprint.Leer más

Viajero
I took a wonderful boat trip along the khlongs over 40 years ago. Highlights were seeing an old man, who was bathing in the river, whip out his denture, rinse it, and put it back in his mouth; passing a temple where very young novice monks (some about 8 years old) came running to the landing stage to wave at us; and petting a baby elephant at one of the stops we made.
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- Día 125
- martes, 15 de enero de 2019, 22:32
- 🌫 23 °C
- Altitud: 577 p
TailandiaNong Khai17°53’3” N 102°44’41” E
Nong Khai: Bliss on the Mekong
15 de enero de 2019, Tailandia ⋅ 🌫 23 °C
What a surprise of a lovely town is Nong Khai! I stayed a total of six days, and enjoyed myself enormously in the Isãn northeast of Thailand. Pinch in the map to see where it is in the country. The Mekong River is its charm and delight. I found a guest house practically on the river promenade, so I could walk every day, admiring the flow and expanse, and lovely Laos on the opposite bank.
A story for you. Saturday, January 12th was Children’s Day. I spent the morning at the Nong Khai Aquarium, admiring the variety of Mekong River fish in the large tank. A program was going on outside for children, with two ladyboys as MC’s. Interesting. So when I got back to the center of Nong Khai I went to another program at the City Hall, which featured dance troupes, prizes, gags and food—all for kids. This is where my story begins.
Next to me at the program was a nine-year-old boy. He held a balloon between his knees, and was slurping a sticky red ice concoction as he watched the program. He dutifully got up to throw away his trash, get a drink of water, and play with his balloon before returning to his seat. As he sat down, his balloon escaped. It went bouncing down the aisle, and was caught by a little girl who looked to be three years old. She was surprised and delighted. The boy’s mother quickly said to him, “You’ll let her have it, won’t you.” He quickly nodded. Then I watched him. His face turned red, his ears turned red, and his eyes filled with tears. He pulled a Buddhist amulet on a chain from under his shirt, and clasped it between his hands. His hands were shaking. He mouthed a prayer, and though his tears did not spill out of his eyes, his hands shook more. I looked away, and the program ended. He and his mother disappeared in the crowd. I myself wept as I walked home.
Another event. In this new town, I lost my impetus to talk to strangers. Everyone was warm and friendly to me, but I lost it. After cramming in vocabulary review for a few hours in a coffee shop, I felt very blue indeed. I decided to go visit the woman who had washed and blow-dried my hair two days before; she seemed friendly, and a beauty parlor is a sociable place. When I entered, she was there alone, and was happy to see me. She told me that her boyfriend, a barber living 250 miles away, was on his way for a five-day visit, and wouldn’t it be nice if we could go out for “shabu-shabu” together. (It’s a Japanese hot-pot, international it seems..) Of course I agreed, and at 5 PM met them and we drove along the Mekong to a bustling restaurant. It was my first experience in Thailand being only with Thais in a social setting! Although my listening comprehension is awful for “real Thai,” Nai and Dom were persistant in getting their meanings across to me. We ate and ate. So much fun, so friendly. My good spirits returned, and have buoyed me ever since.
And so I lived happily until leaving for Bangkok, my next story. More about Nong Khai is revealed in the photos, though...Leer más
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- Día 119
- miércoles, 9 de enero de 2019, 9:18
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitud: 581 p
LaosBan Phônthan17°58’22” N 102°37’50” E
Thai on the Road--begins in Laos??
9 de enero de 2019, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
I am now on the road again! My first stop, after a 12-hour night bus journey, was Vientiane, the capital of Laos. I went there specifically to visit the Thai Consulate to apply for and receive a two-MONTH tourist visa for Thailand, which will take me to the end of my stay here.
I booked a nice Airbnb apartment far enough from the Consulate to give me opportunities to walk a great deal. After I submitted my visa application and passport (to be collected, along with the visa, the following day) I had a delicious fish soup for lunch, and then walked down to the Mekong River to have a look. If you too have lived through the Viet Nam War, “Mekong” will bring back difficult memories. But here it is a broad and lovely river, ready to create new and positive thoughts. After the long bus ride, the tension of getting my visa process started, and landing in a new country, I began to feel a bit low—“I don’t speak Lao,” I whined to myself.
The following day, I started out afresh, and walked about two and a half miles to the Vientiane Textile Museum. During my walk I talked with many people, because I discovered that mostly everyone spoke Thai! Not only are the languages similar, but being only a few miles from the border encourages Vientiane citizens to learn. I felt ever so much better, having conversations. The Textile Museum is a family compound, and all the buildings were in the old Lao style of about 100 years ago. It is a beautiful place, showing the process of collecting the raw cotton, silk, hemp, bamboo, reeds, etc., spinning and dyeing it, and finally weaving fabrics on various hand looms. Note: the silkworms are NOT boiled alive. They are allowed to hatch and fly away as moths.
After a long and relaxing visit, I went and collected the visa—a joyous event—and had a scrumptious Vietnamese lunch of phô, and a slow walk back to my apartment. A very pleasant stay indeed—and I shall certainly get back to Laos one day for a proper exploration.Leer más

Fantastic---it must be reassuring to know your next 2 months are sorted. I like the Loa architecture! James.
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- Día 117
- lunes, 7 de enero de 2019
- 🌧 30 °C
- Altitud: 984 p
TailandiaChang Klan18°46’21” N 98°59’34” E
My Chiang Mai Language Challenge Ends!
7 de enero de 2019, Tailandia ⋅ 🌧 30 °C
My Thai language challenge has officially ended in Chiang Mai itself, and is now about to start a new phase: on the road! But let me catch you up on what has happened since my entry on Day 62 on November 13th.
Thanks to 90-days-in-a-row studying in the Add1Challenge—and I do mean studying 3-5 hours a day—I reached my goal of 2000+ words in my active vocabulary. In a 14-day “mini-challenge” around Day 70, I succeeded in speaking Thai for a total of 47 hours—about 3.5 hours a day—bringing my team to victory! I officially finished this Challenge by making a “90-day video,” the final video required, in which I have a 21-minute conversation with a native speaker. In this case, it was my iTalki teacher Chonlada Yomchinda. It might be interesting for you to compare my speaking from DayZero and Day90, even if you don’t understand Thai. So here are the links:
Day0: https://youtu.be/-AM7-kvm1YU
Day90: https://youtu.be/ZFdzMgso4Ww
But the most important part of these last months is the closeness I am beginning to feel to my Thai friends and even the people on the streets. When I sat down and spoke to Khun Wisamun the artist, we poured out our stories since the last meeting, and are truly “puuean sanit,” “close friends.” Face-to-face with Khun Kit the dtuk-dtuk driver, we wept over his aged mother’s decline. On a 12:30 am video call with Khun Aan, the city bus driver, I gave him sympathy for having to drive until 2 am on an empty bus through the deserted Chiang Mai streets—an intimate view of Purgatory if there ever was one. Everyone has a lifetime of stories within, and they remain locked within—without WORDS to let them emerge as pieces of identity and soul. I do long to hear these stories, and let my friends hear mine. It is only through this sharing that I truly feel at home in any country. Otherwise, I feel I’m just passing through.Leer más
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- Día 105
- miércoles, 26 de diciembre de 2018
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitud: 1.043 p
TailandiaNight Bazaar18°47’7” N 98°59’33” E
Sabaai Sabaai! Animals and Street Life
26 de diciembre de 2018, Tailandia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
"Sabaai” has so many meanings: well, comfortable, how are you? fine, and relaxed—for starters. Even though Chiang Mai is in the cooler north of Thailand, it is still tropical. While my Thai neighbors shiver in 67-degree evening “cold season” weather, and dress their dogs in cotton coats, I feel relief: it’s finally not so HOT!! In the midst of my nearly overwhelmingly intense Thai language studies, I certainly have not lost my joy in wandering the streets of Chiang Mai, and finding all sorts of visual treasures. Well, treasures in MY eyes!
I also moved twice, for a total of three separate locations in the center of Chiang Mai. Because I booked my Airbnb properties for only a month, the time after my booking was immediately snatched by another person—the “cold season,” November to January, is considered The Time To Visit Thailand.
I hope you get a little of Chiang Mai atmosphere from these photos!Leer más
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- Día 73
- sábado, 24 de noviembre de 2018, 0:00
- 🌙 23 °C
- Altitud: 1.037 p
TailandiaNight Bazaar18°47’6” N 98°59’33” E
A Hike and a Festival!
24 de noviembre de 2018, Tailandia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C
Of course I have been nearly totally buried in my Thai language studies, but I did take some time out for a lovely walk/hike at the base of the mountains west of Chiang Mai on November 24th. The trail started just north of the Chiang Mai Zoo, and followed a playful stream for a mile or two. It felt so wonderful to be out of the city, tramping along in the forest. The tropical mountain vegetation was full of surprises, such as a totally iridescent cup of a spider web, and beautiful striated fungi. And the air! Fresh and sweet and earthy.
The day before was the start of the Loy Krathorn Festival. This is a nationwide festival, in which Chiang Mai excels so much that people from all over Thailand and the world come here to witness it. There are lovely lanterns sent into the night air of the full moon, and exquisite floating “baskets” sent down the rivers, full of worship of the River Gods, and heartfelt wishes of the senders. Please click on this link for much fuller information:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loi_Krathong
And enjoy MY photos!Leer más
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- Día 62
- martes, 13 de noviembre de 2018
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Altitud: 1.037 p
TailandiaNight Bazaar18°47’6” N 98°59’33” E
Thrilling New Developments in Chiang Mai
13 de noviembre de 2018, Tailandia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
I have to tell you all about three exciting things that have recently happened to me here in Chiang Mai.
First of all, my Thai is improving quite rapidly. My active vocabulary (if I can remember everything) is now around 1300 words and expressions, with 208 more in the “memorization pipeline.” My goal is 2000 words, so I’m getting closer! I have two teachers. I go to a language school for an hour private lesson twice a week with Ms. Lek, and have a Skype lesson for thirty minutes DAILY with Ms. Taantawan. I hold “free conversation” with both of them, as they scramble to note all the new words and expressions that I need. These notes fill my vocabulary notebook. I meet with my language exchange partner Wisamun every day at 6 PM sharp, with our thirty minutes of English and then Thai.
In my Add1Challenge, we are into our second month (there are three months altogether) and I get many ideas from other language learners. One of the best is the use of “Glossika,” an app which allows me to repeat many short sentences at native speed for a “session” of about twenty minutes per day. I was skeptical at first, but I’m finding that it is indeed living up to its promise of fluency: my brain is actually getting re-wired to speak with much less hesitation!
The second thing that has happened is that I’ve had wrist surgery here. Yes! A tendon in my right wrist was too large for the sheath it had to pass through, causing me great pain. Instead of waiting until December for surgery in the States, I investigated having it here. I went for a consultation with a noted hand specialist/surgeon at the Bangkok Hospital Chiang Mai, and HAD THE SURGERY TWO HOURS LATER. The total cost for the doctor visit, the surgery, and pain pills and antibiotics was $420. I thought they forgot to add a zero to the bill! In the US, when I had the same surgery done to the other wrist six years ago, the bill was way over $7500. My insurance covered it, but please note the difference.
And then, the third event was that I did my first “visa run.” It involved crossing the border into Myanmar, and coming back into Thailand with a new Thai visa for thirty more days. It was ten hours on the bus there and back—a bit grueling—but the journey was broken up by a couple of hours at the border, and a nice lunch of one of my very favorite dishes: lahpet thoke, fermented tea leaf salad. There is a picture of it in this entry.
There is always much to learn, and much to experience by living in foreign countries. My immersion in Thai/Chiang Mai life has been thrilling for me. It’s the first time I’ve been so ambitious in learning a new language, the first time I’ve seriously dealt with visa issues, and the first time to ditch the US medical system for one that seems vastly superior in how treatment is delivered. Every day I wake up eager to get going on everything.Leer más
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- Día 43
- jueves, 25 de octubre de 2018
- ☀️ 31 °C
- Altitud: 988 p
TailandiaBan Mai Langmo18°47’38” N 98°58’44” E
A Special Guest Post: Victoria Vorreiter
25 de octubre de 2018, Tailandia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
I first visited my friend Victoria Vorreiter in Chiang Mai in April 2017, to celebrate the culmination of twelve years of work. It is a great honor for me that she has agreed to describe that work for you here. She also has provided a few of her exquisite photos. —Dorée
***
To Dorée’s devotees, I send a warm ‘sawasdeekaa’ from northern Thailand. It is a pleasure to connect with you through this guest entry. I so appreciate Dorée’s invitation to add a new dimension to her adopted home by sharing my own journey in Southeast Asia.
Dorée and I first met in 1980 as classical violinists and teachers in London. Over the years we have shared a deep belief in the power of music and its importance in the lives of young people. This keen awareness of the sonic environment has shifted for both of us, in different but complementary ways. Dorée has followed her passion for languages and I for documenting the ancestral music of traditional peoples living in remote corners of the world.
My fascination with the primal role music plays in preliterate societies first began while teaching young children through the Suzuki Method, guiding them to absorb repertoire through their ears, rather than through their eyes. What I came to understand is that the “mother tongue method” is nothing more or less than oral tradition, the dynamic means used by all indigenous peoples through time and place to pass down everything they know about their world in an unbroken chain, from the first ancestors to all who follow. Historical accounts, tenets of behavior, life lessons, harvest principles, secular and ritual practices, and spiritual beliefs, all are revealed and sustained through songs and ceremonies. Isn’t this a wonder. And so began my quest. . .
I first arrived in Chiang Mai, Thailand, in 2005, with the sole intention of exploring the music, ceremonies, and cultures of the Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, and China converge. This expanse of the Himalayan foothills has served over millennia as an historical and cultural crossroads of migrations, trade routes, and passages along the great rivers of Asia, which has given way to some of the world’s oldest civilizations. Here resides a rich multiplicity of more than 130 different groups and subgroups making this one of the most culturally rich places on the planet.
Primary among this number are six distinct groups—the Akha, Lahu, Lisu, Hmong, Mien, and Karen, each with a unique history, language, physical features, customs, dress, arts, and spiritual beliefs—who continue to maintain their independence and identity to a high degree. Each of these groups is rooted in animism, the belief that everything in nature possesses a soul and the universe is organized by supernatural powers. Frequent rites, ceremonies, and festivals are performed throughout the year to maintain harmony between the realm of men and spirits.
The medium propelling these rites is music, which appears throughout the diaspora in astounding diversity. Each ethnic group has developed a vast and varied repertoire of celebratory songs, ritual chants, and secular and sacred instrumental music that charts the arc of life, the cycles of seasons, and the wheel of generations. For the highlanders of Southeast Asia, music is ever-present and essential to their inner and outer lives.
With my vision in mind, I have spent over a decade trekking to isolated mountain villages to document the significant thresholds of life—births, courtship rites, weddings, harvest rituals, festivals, healing ceremonies, and funerals—that are so spectacularly driven by melody and rhythm.
Such a glorious, challenging, humbling adventure has allowed me to amass an extensive body of work—journals, films, photographs, recordings, and collections of musical instruments and textiles. This has given rise to the Songs of Memory archival projects, which include books, presentations, and multi-media exhibitions. It is hoped that these form an integrative whole that will help support and preserve the age-old culture and wisdom of the Akha, Lahu, Lisu, Hmong, Mien, and Karen peoples.
Please enjoy the following images of the musicians, shamans, headmen, and villagers, young and old, who have graced my path. To explore further photographs, recordings, and films, to request materials, or to connect with me personally, please visit: www.TribalMusicAsia.com. It would be a joy and honor to introduce these archives to your community.
Enormous gratitude goes to Dorée for giving me this opportunity to share the Songs of Memory project with you. And many thanks to you for your interest in the timeless cultural heritage of the Golden Triangle.
With warmest wishes,
VictoriaLeer más

ViajeroAs a lover of what is known as world music, I am fascinated. Good photos as well. James.

Wonderful pictures! I remember hearing your name in connection with Suzuki, as my son Ian studied with Doree. It was lovely to hear both Ian and his sister playing together at the Barbican this week. Rosemary Rathbone.

Lovely post! The only picture without caption was of the Lisu, wondered about that!
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- Día 32
- domingo, 14 de octubre de 2018
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Altitud: 988 p
TailandiaBan Mai Langmo18°47’38” N 98°58’44” E
What Language Learning Looks Like
14 de octubre de 2018, Tailandia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
I am in heaven. Language learning heaven. I find that learning Thai here in Chiang Mai is like being in a pleasure ground, solving an enormous puzzle, playing with words, memorizing words, hearing blurs of words, accumulating pages and pages of words—and enjoying words with friendly and accommodating speakers who buoy me up with kindness.
I spend the morning hours in my comfortable apartment learning vocabulary, practicing pronunciation, listening to native speaker recordings and sappy Thai love songs, and rehearsing talking with imaginary Thai friends so they can possibly understand me. It is easy to study with discipline—anyone who has practiced a musical instrument can appreciate the transfer of practice from one area to the other. It's not the musical background which makes a successful language learner; it's the D I S C I P L I N E. The repetition, the slow practice, the never-missing-a-day, the endless listening, the reviewing, the preparation for the performance, and finally the performance itself, which is SPEAKING WITH THE NATIVES.
So after lunch and a quick nap, I dress, do hair and make-up, and hit the streets of Chiang Mai. Rather, I do my "route,” my speaking path, with a few sentences here, and a few sentences there. Greetings to my vegetable seller, a handsome man in his seventies; then past the local food stalls where I never eat but am always greeted hopefully by the owners; hello to the seamstress and her cat Mimi, and to the line-up of thuk-thuk and songthaew drivers outside the temples, who don't seem to mind a chat instead of a fare. It's on to laughter with Wanpen, whose younger brother takes me on tours; and finally to a choice of air-conditioned oases for an icy watermelon frappé and more studying. At 6 PM I meet my friend Wisamun for thirty minutes of English and thirty of Thai. I learn the words in Thai that he wants to know in English, and vice versa: we are learning each others’ words. We are like kids with comic books. It's so much fun! Then I walk home, musing, and wishing people on my way a very formal "raatrii sawaat"—"good night to you.”
I also was accepted in something called the “Add1Challenge,” a program that is part of the website “Fluent in Three Months.” ( https://www.fluentin3months.com/) The challenge is to go from zero knowledge to having a fifteen-minute talk in one’s target language, with a native speaker, in ninety days. To be accepted, I had to post a short public video on YouTube explaining why I wanted to participate, and what my personal goal was. ( Link: https://youtu.be/8OxP8WpAtWw) The Challenge began on October 8th, and the first task was to make another public video for “Day Zero,” showing what my competency was. Here is mine: https://youtu.be/-AM7-kvm1YU
There are over one hundred participants, studying many languages. We are connected on the work meeting app called Slack, which is a great pleasure. Many people contribute hints, resources, and support to the group as a whole, and to two study groups to which we are assigned. We can also be in touch with individual members. I have even met with another Thai learner, who happens to be staying near me in Chiang Mai! As I push to my individual goal, attaining a B1or B2 level of proficiency, I can do so in the company of others. Here is an explanation of “B1 B2” in the CEFR System: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_European…
Please note, everyone: I am not self-flagellating. I am not a masochist. This is FUN! Paradise! All of it! I am truly in heaven.
Here are a few pictures.Leer más
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- Día 25
- domingo, 7 de octubre de 2018
- ⛅ 31 °C
- Altitud: 1.102 p
TailandiaMae Rim18°54’46” N 98°56’41” E
Monkeys, Snakes and Insects in Mae Rim
7 de octubre de 2018, Tailandia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
Mae Rim is a district starting a few miles north of Chiang Mai. It has villages and populated areas, but it feels like the countryside. September is still the rainy season, and though it hasn’t rained much, the green tropical vegetation is restful and very beautiful.
I have given myself two Saturday excursions to Mae Rim, using a tiny three-person tour company. Wanpen is a bubbly woman in her mid-forties, and one of my conversation pals on my daily walking street. She sold me the tours. Her younger brother “A” was my driver. Wanpen’s husband works together on the admin with his wife. I loved driving up and back to Mae Rim with A, as he was so very quiet and shy that I could babble on in beginner Thai as much as I wanted. I purposefully learned the word “introvert” in Thai to describe him, which delighted his older sister—not only because it was true, but also because a foreign customer had come up with the word.
The first trip, on September 29, 2018, we went to the “Monkey School” and the Snake Farm. They were both shameless tourist attractions, with “shows,” and animals imprisoned in soulless small cages. The Monkey School featured pig-tailed macaques, who were very intelligent, and very ill-treated. Here is a link about them:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_pig-ta… I was happy to leave that place.
But afterwards, the Snake Farm was much better—probably because snakes have fewer physical requirements than the macaques. Being able to hold a very young python was a delight! So strange and so beautiful. The “show” was really quite amazing, as the snake performers were deadly poisonous cobras, and the snake wranglers were undeniably skilled and brave.
My second excursion on October 6th was especially amusing. My memorized vocabulary had increased by 130 words, and every day I’d practiced speaking quite a bit, so A and I could cover more topics. We discussed foods we loved and hated, to eat or not to eat insects (he wouldn’t, I would), the most valuable breeds of dogs in Thailand and how much they cost (his Labrador just had six puppies, to be sold for about $50 apiece), and his plans for opening a street food restaurant serving international dishes. Mind you, I was speaking in short sentences, “Dalmatians, how much?” ($1550) “I didn’t eat cicadas because they were too expensive.” Etc.
My one “attraction” was the Siam Insect Zoo, where I spent two and a half hours! There were beautiful display cases of pinned insects to show taxonomy, simple but not dumbed-down explanations of insect behaviors and life cycles, and many many live insects in different sections: tarantulas, crickets, butterflies and stick insects were featured. The staff members all spoke English, and proved amazing abilities to charm even the youngest children. And there were many children! One young Thai mother, a graduate of Penn State who settled back in Chiang Mai, told me that she was tired of taking her very young children to play in the mall. “We’re branching out,” she said.
Both outings ended with a trip to a marvelous vegetable market. The stand I frequented both times was run by twin sisters. The first visit, twenty pounds of vegetables cost $3.25. The second visit, it cost $10.50. It’s because I bought lots of local mushrooms! And then A and I could chat all way back to Chiang Mai—thirty minutes with the Saturday traffic. The main topics were the different places he drove to all over Northern Thailand, and how he and his wife were going to divide up the restaurant chores. Happy days!Leer más

ViajeroI must admit that I am happier with the vegetables than insects or snakes - i've always had a phobia about them from a child.

What an exciting life you lead in such exotic places! But you make them "neighborhoods" with your descriptions. This is such a treat! -- Pat
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- Día 8
- jueves, 20 de septiembre de 2018, 22:02
- 🌙 24 °C
- Altitud: 1.004 p
TailandiaBan Mai Langmo18°47’38” N 98°58’45” E
A Big Decision in Chiang Mai
20 de septiembre de 2018, Tailandia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C
From Brazil I came back to Thailand. In April 2017 I spent three charming weeks here, so I decided to dig in and explore seriously. Now that I have been living internationally for over a year, “exploring” no longer means traveling around with a set itinerary. Instead, I am improvising my stays according to what makes me happy, excited, and intrigued.
I have made the decision to stay here in Chiang Mai, which is the third-largest city in Thailand. FindPenguins comes with the satellite map, so you can see where I am exactly. I will be here until October 31st, and most likely will extend that until December, when I fly back to the US. I love my spacious and comfortable apartment.
Here is a link to the Airbnb site so you can see what it looks like: https://abnb.me/PjtZrIiUrQ I love my little neighborhood (I have become a “neighborhood person”) and I find the location to be perfect: just within the ancient city walls, yet separated from the tourist bustle further south. Despite the big city congestion, I like being here for all the possibilities a big city offers.
I have also made a much more momentous decision: I am devoting myself to learning Thai. I just can’t have the kind of experiences I have enjoyed in countries where I was fluent unless I make the same effort here. So all day long, until late afternoon, I am Pomidoro-ing my studies—twenty-five minutes study, five minutes total break, repeat. There are longer breaks to eat and do my exercises, but I still listen to Thai podcasts, and read about Thai culture and history. Also, I have two teachers (via Skype), one for teaching me all I ask to know, and the other for one hour of “this is how we talk” conversation. I am trying to memorize vocabulary as rapidly as possible with spaced repetition practice. Memorize memorize memorize—it’s my new name!
I am at such an elementary level that I can’t really bother people on the street with much more than a short short conversation. However, in a stroke of luck I met a photographer/artist who is desperately keen to learn English, so we are teaming up for a daily language exchange. His English is slightly ahead of my Thai. We are roaring into the improvement of both our language abilities with fervor. And lo! There is a long-lived Language Exchange every Wednesday and Saturday evenings at a pub close to my apartment. The first time I went there I met Thais, Americans, Chinese, Brits, Koreans and Canadians present! I also signed up to be a member of a “foreign language challenge,” called the Add1Challenge. Here is a link for more information: https://add1challenge.com/ Why? I thought it would be fun, and a sociable way to be fanatically intent on attaining fluency in ninety days.
My visit to Brazil the last three months taught me the value of really being able to communicate in a foreign language: to talk and listen on an emotional level, which breaks down cultural barriers. My goal is never to “become” Brazilian, or Thai, or anything else. It is to become closer.
And to have fun as I never have before!
ฉันเรียนเพื่อสนุกกับชีวิต. “I study for life’s enjoyment.”Leer más
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- miércoles, 12 de septiembre de 2018
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Altitud: 7.615 p
EtiopíaAddis Ababa Bole International Airport8°58’45” N 38°47’35” E
Flight Insights: Addis Ababa Airport
12 de septiembre de 2018, Etiopía ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
To get from Cuiabá,Brazil to Chiang Mai, Thailand, I took six flights. Counting flying time and layovers, it was 42 hours. Horrible. In the future, I will buy round-trip tickets to-from Dulles International Airport in Washington DC. That was my first flight insight, and a very important one. Although the date of this footprint is September 12, I am actually writing it on September 19, STILL feeling the hard effects of that journey.
What was really interesting was flying Ethiopian Airways, and experiencing a five-hour layover in Addis Ababa. Ethiopian Airways provided the most direct flights to Bangkok, so that’s why I chose it. However, I was highly apprehensive, as my illogical mind made up a story of a primitive plane that couldn’t get off the ground, that would be dirty and unsafe. Read “Thinking Fast and Slow” by Daniel Kahneman to learn the origin of such wrong thinking. The two Airbus A320 flights, from São Paulo to Addis and Addis to Bangkok, featured new and shining planes, courteous and prompt service, and the old-fashioned addition of the most beautifully radiant flight attendants imaginable. Or maybe most Ethiopians are beautiful; so it seems. At any rate, ET, Ethiopian Airways is succeeding in being the leading airline in Africa, according to someone I overheard in the airport.
In Addis Ababa, the airport was full of the kind of travelers I never encounter: Indian contractors going to Africa, and vice-versa; pan-African travelers—from the Congo, South Africa, Nigeria, Morocco—everywhere! And the foreign dress, hair styles, body language, spoken languages! I found it all so interesting and attractive. For the first time, I was seriously drawn to Africa. My head has always been full of my own made-up stories about the horrors of Africa, despite the body of fine literature and facts to the contrary pouring out of the continent. As I was pondering that, I met a Belgian violinist on his way back to Kenya and his Nairobi Symphony job. He told me, “Go there! They really need violin teachers!”
When I sat at a table for six in an airport restaurant, I shared my space with a 34-year-old man from the Democratic Republic of the Congo. When my order of an Ethiopian vegetarian dish of chick peas in a red sauce and three injeras arrived, I convinced Joseph to share it with me, which he did with enthusiasm. Then we talked about his marriage until the bill was paid. In leaving, he called our meeting “an act of God.”
On the plane, I sat next to a shrouded muslim-dressed Somalian woman, traveling with her NINE children to go live in New Zealand. We only had a few words of Arabic between us, but we communicated and helped each other throughout the flight to Bangkok. When we parted, we hugged and kissed like dear friends, which in a way, we were. I seemed to be in a different consciousness as my mind took everything in. Well, being relaxed and secure in my retirement helps, as does my never-ending curiosity about others, but still, this was important cultural learning.
And now begins another adventure in a totally different culture, where I shall try to keep identifying my inaccurately invented stories, and replace them with as much truth as possible. Which will be very interesting and great fun.Leer más

ViajeroNo wonder you were exhausted! I’m sure you’re going to have a great time exploring and finding out about your new chosen destination! I look foreword to reading your blog.

ViajeroWow! What an adventure. I love Ethiopia--beautiful culture and people. And delicious food!
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- lunes, 10 de septiembre de 2018
- ☀️ 37 °C
- Altitud: 817 p
BrasilCuiabá15°22’35” S 56°1’9” W
More photos: my visit to Jota's chácara
10 de septiembre de 2018, Brasil ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
Please enjoy these additional photos of my splendid experience in the countryside of Brazil’s “cerrado.” Jota is an exceptional host. Not only did he give me my own bedroom and bath for a week, but he cooked meals for me and took me out to wonderful local buffet restaurants, to the University of Mato Grosso’s native animal zoo, and to many points of interest in and around his kingdom. Though I must point out that his property is quite a fabulous destination on its own.
My last night in Brazil, September 10, 2018, Jota arranged for me to teach a group lesson for violin students in a wonderful free program organized by Oliver, the head violin teacher at the Federal University of Mato Grosso. I was rusty, but somehow managed to remember what to do! It turned out to be a wonderful experience, thanks to the open and affectionate nature of the students and professors.
Thank you for everything, Jota!!!!!Leer más

ViajeroAstounding! Now where is a photo of you and the violin group lesson?? Love, Annette

José Luiz, Jota from Brazil: Lovely words Doree! Thank you. You are welcome when you decide to return to Brazil. The students of violin in the project coordinated by professor Oliver Yatsugafu and his wife Rúbia Yatsugafu really loved you special class. Thank you so much! We are waiting for you as soon as possible!
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- sábado, 8 de septiembre de 2018, 22:48
- 🌙 25 °C
- Altitud: 755 p
BrasilCuiabá15°22’42” S 56°0’45” W
Ótima visita! The Jackpot!
8 de septiembre de 2018, Brasil ⋅ 🌙 25 °C
To end my second trip in Brazil, I had the ultimate good fortune of being invited to stay with José Luis Vieira, AKA “Jota.” How did I meet him? He used the videos of my violin teaching on YouTube, made a comment via my now-defunct website, I wrote back, and for a year we exchanged messages every so often. After meeting in Chapada dos Guimarães at the end of August, he sent me a formal invitation to stay with him, and have a “Portuguese immersion visit.” My dream! Because my Portuguese is practiced with strangers, and the longest conversation I can hope to have is under an hour, I was excited—SO HAPPY—to accept his generous invitation.
Jota’s land is called a “sitio,” a house in the country. He bought the property twenty-eight kilometers/seventeen miles from Cuiabá, on a dirt road off the main route to Chapada dos Guimarães. It is half a hectare, fifty by one hundred meters, or one and a quarter acres in area. I call it “the ultimate bachelor pad.” Jota was born in the rural town of Ituverava, in São Paulo State, and grew up in a country life. However, his career as a policeman and then chief of police in and around Cuiabá kept him in towns until his retirement a few years ago. On his country estate, there is a generous four-bedroom house with a large country kitchen; outbuildings include a small employee’s apartment and a storage unit for animal feed and equipment. Jota has populated his haven with many breeds of cats, dogs, chickens, ducks, geese, cattle, turtles and peacocks. He cares for them morning and night. I don’t dare describe the daily upkeep of so many varieties of creatures, as it would be thousands of words. I’ll just say that it is extremely complex. To Jota, though, it is his twice-daily journey through affectionate and interesting encounters with his very large family.
With all these animals, drama occurs. A newly-hatched duckling tripped and stumbled as it tried to reach food, water and its mother. When we saw it ten minutes later, a cat was half-finished eating it. Unbeknownst to Jota, his aged rescue dog (from a mall parking lot, starving and covered with fire ants) had been impregnated by her son. One puppy was born, and as its mother had no milk, Jota fed it with a syringe. It survived three days, and when Jota took it outside for burial, the mother cried and howled for days as she tried to locate her lost puppy. I found a dead hen, expired in the severe heat of the day. And so it goes.
We also had sessions with violins. Jota is involved in a free program of violin lessons given by students at the government university in Cuiabá. He reached a high level of playing in two years by practicing at least an hour every day. However, a stroke in June that left him most of his speech, memory, and motor skills, unfortunately wiped out most of his work on the violin. Persistent efforts are bringing back pieces, intonation, and bowing, but it’s a lot of work. Bravo to Jota’s courage and hard work.
Every day, we had expeditions to Cuiabá: to buy agricultural supplies and groceries, to have lunch, and also to do some sightseeing. We went in Jota’s pickup truck, windows open for “natural” air conditioning, roaring back and forth sometimes twice a day. Not only did Jota share his love of Cuiabá and its surroundings, but he also spoke to me continually in Brazilian Portuguese. Could I ask for anything more?Leer más
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- martes, 4 de septiembre de 2018
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitud: 338 p
BrasilBaía de São Luís16°44’13” S 57°11’31” W
Pantanal do Norte: Jaguar!
4 de septiembre de 2018, Brasil ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
After our first excursion at Rio Claro, James and I opted for a 14-hour extravaganza all the way to Porto Jofre, 146 miles from Poconé and our pousada, in the center of the southern Pantanal. Our guide Domingas was born and raised around there. What a pistol! Pure firecracker! She picked us up at 4:00 AM sharp in her own van, and did all the driving. She has no office to pay for, and no website to manage. She gets clients from the pousadas, and through friends, Facebook, and word of mouth. Domingas in two words: a master.
It was unseasonably cold, and I shivered in a blanket brought from the hotel. At around 6:30 AM, we stopped to watch the sunrise and eat breakfast. Domingas flagged down road repair trucks to offer drivers breakfast as well. At around 8:00 AM, we arrived at the hamlet of Porto Jofre, and few minutes later we were in a small motorboat on the Cuiabá River. Because of the cold, the chances of seeing many jaguars were limited. However, for hours we trolled the riverbank, Domingas and Carlos the Boatman teaming up as we motored in and out of the jaguar habitat.
Despite their single-minded search along the riverbank, James and I found other things of interest: capybaras, the “regular” rich birdlife of the Pantanal, a lusher vegetation than the territory of the day before, and splendid skies. Around 11 AM, Domingas spotted our “prey,” a gigantic male spotted jaguar, which Carlos estimated to weigh around 132 pounds, 60 kilos. All hell broke loose: birds started screaming, and a male capybara on a sand bank let out a continuous honking bark of warning. Fear. We watched and followed in the boat, as the jaguar walked along the riverbank to a certain point. Then he entered the water, and calmly swam to the other side of the river. It turned out he was returning to his kill of the day before: a 160-pound alligator, killed by a deep bite wound on the top of it’s head.
Domingas signaled through radio walkie-talkies to other guides doing the same stalking as us, so three boats followed the jaguar’s efforts. First, he tried to drag the alligator corpse up the steep bank. Too heavy, and he slipped down. Then he dragged it in the river to a flatter part of the riverbank. No success there either. Finally, he hauled it behind some foliage, and commenced to eat. Domingas told us he would return with his mate for two to three days to continue eating. At that point, we returned to the Porto Jofre pousada from where we had set out, and ate OUR lunch.
What a triumph to see that magnificent animal in his native habitat! He calmly carried out what he did to survive—completely unperturbed by us gawkers. And he was quite frightening. All of the guides I had in the Pantanal told me they were much more afraid of “onças” than they were of any other creature. That group now includes me!Leer más
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- martes, 4 de septiembre de 2018, 7:35
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitud: 564 p
BrasilPoconé16°16’26” S 56°37’30” W
Pantanal North: Alligators!
4 de septiembre de 2018, Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
James and I came down from Cuiabá to the small city of Poconé, where we stayed at Kilometer Zero of the Transpantaneira Highway. We took two tours of the area. The first was hosted by the Pousada Rio Clara, 35 kilometers/15 miles away. We first took a two-hour boat ride, and had lunch. Although the “alligator gets fish on a stick” series shown in the photos below was definitely gimmicky, it was an excellent way to see the animal up close! The trick was repeated with a heron, who swooped down to catch the piranha.
In the afternoon, we went for a walk through a Pantanal “higher ground” forest. I was fascinated by all aspects of the vegetation in its dry season. Overall, the animal life was more plentiful and easier to view than in the southern Pantanal.Leer más

A hugely absorbing day and congratulations to Domingas for finding the jaguar's habitat. However the threat to wildlife lovers is not jaguars, alligators or piranhas but cattle ranchers. I fervently hope this remarkable landscape will be preserved for future generations. James.

What a wonderful world! My native Brazil! Beautiful photos! Jose Jota L. Vieira, from Brazil
































































































































































































































































ViajeroNamibian music in Chile---whatever next! Well done again for visiting such a little-known place. James.