Canada & Alaska Summer 2019

July - August 2019
July 2019 Read more
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  • Day 1

    Vancouver by foot

    July 16, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After a 9 hour flight from Gatwick, we landed into a hot and sweaty Vancouver. The metro from the airport to our hotel was dead simple, and mercifully our hotel allowed us to check in when we arrived at 1pm, a full three hours before check in time, so we could dump our kit and shower. Before heading into town, we partook in the hotel bars "power hour", enjoying a couple of pints for $4. Suitably refreshed, we headed into town to suss out Vancouver.

    We walked along the main east-west drag towards Stanley Park, before looping on to the picturesque harbour with sweeping mountains and million-dollar yachts. Just off the front, a crowd was watching a film crew - apparently the 5th series of Supergirl was being filmed, so we stayed to watch the brief scene. Continuing on foot to downtown proper, after a cheeky Tim Horton's, we watched a wacky Harry Potter tribute band outside the public library and wandered the shops.

    Finally, we headed into the Gaslight district and Chinatown, stopping by the steam powered clock and fabulously tacky souvenir shops. We passed the statue of the founder of Vancouver, 'Gassy Jack', and the Chinatown gate on the way back, as well as a striking and saddening street crowded with homeless people.
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  • Day 2

    Totems

    July 17, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Up early...super early...sodding time difference.

    So we tried to lie in, before the alarm finally going off at 8am. A small cafe nearby offered a cracking breakfast of waffles, eggs, bacon and coffee - welcome to Canada! Sadly it was pouring with rain and we got soaked en route.

    The weather put pay to our plans to cycle around Stanley Park but as it began to dry up, we walked to it instead. A brisk walk along the 3km of the sea wall took us past the Nine o'clock gun, the Brockton Point Lighthouse, the girl in the wetsuit statue and gave beautiful views if the San Francisco-esque Lions Gate Bridge. We watched intrigued as crafty seagulls picked up closed molluscs and dropped them onto the footpath from height to smash them open. The industry somewhat spoilt the view of the north side, but no more than the extensive harbour and seaplanes do on the south side.

    Rounding the eastern tip of Stanley Park, we came to the totem poles. These totems, mostly replicas, represent some of the history if the First Nation peoples in the area and are stunning despite the tourist crowds thronging off buses and out of taxis. From here, we began the long walk to the ferry for Granville island, passing en route yet more filming for Supergirl.
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  • Day 2

    Granville Island

    July 17, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Feet starting to ache, we headed for the ferry to Granville Island. Alone on the mini-ferry on the short hop across False Creek, we were anything but alone on the island. It was heaving with people. We grabbed a Chinese lunch in one of the markets which was mercifully good and filling, because the rest of the island is like a Canadian version of an overcrowded British seaside town. There isn't a lot to see there other than the markets and a bizarre First Nation pan pipe player playing Unchained Melody...! There is a brewery, but as it was just as packed as everywhere else, we decided to find a beer in a more sane part of town! It's not quite as tacky as the Canadian side of Niagara, but it's well on the way.

    We ferried back to David Lam park and walked back to the hotel, racking up 28,787 steps (20km?!) by just 4pm...OUCH!
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  • Day 3

    Lynn Canyon

    July 18, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After a hearty breakfast at Tractor, and a final walk along the harbour front, we packed up and picked up the car. Bidding farewell for the time being to Vancouver didn't seem like a particular hardship - a pleasant city in itself but definitely not one that stole our heart.

    So on our way out towards Kelowna, we headed to the Lynn Canyon to see the suspension bridge...and it was packed! We are so used to the Canadian countryside being relatively problem-free, this was a bit of a shock. However, the bridge and surroundings were beautiful, if full of sodding stairs. So we basked in the fantastical height of the red cedars before setting out on the four hour drive to Kelowna, and to begin the number plate game...
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  • Day 3

    Kelowna

    July 18, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Kelowna was not four hours away. An accident on the other carriage way caused huge tailbacks on our side, then construction work and rush hour traffic added an hour or so to our journey. It is difficult to complain though when the scenery is just so fantastic. Through rain, sunshine and menacing clouds, the tree-covered mountains and 8% gradients provided much to be taken with. The cruise control and petrol consumption suffered less well in the gradients!

    When we finally arrived in Kelowna and got to out guest house, the views over the valley were simply stunning. High upon a hill side, it looked out over the lake, mountains and the city. We quickly popped out to a local winery, something the region is famous for, for a complimentary wine tasting, before returning to town proper for the most filling meal we've had in ages!

    Tomorrow, Banff beckons along with a spot of camping...!

    Number plate update: Utah, California, Washington, Oregon, Nevada, Texas (6/50)
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  • Day 4

    Lake Louise

    July 19, 2019 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Our fantastic hosts gave us a fantastic breakfast overlooking Kelowna before setting off this morning. We couldn't have asked for more from this lovely stay.

    On the road, we ploughed on towards Banff. We stopped at Walmart to grab a couple of blankets in lieu of sleeping bags for our coming night of camping, which could be interesting... We made a brief stop en route at the huge Revelstoke Dam which was a feat of engineering in scale.

    The drive itself was spectacular. Through Mt Revelstoke, Glacier and Yoho National Parks, the road carved its way alongside cliffs and lakes. The weather varied between light drizzle and proper rain, so the low cloud meant we couldn't see most of the peaks but this really didn't spoil the view. We followed a train of seemingly endless carriages through the valleys, and many of the lakes were more like inland oceans. We were also treated to the view of a moose and it's calf crossing one of the rivers - the first time we've seen a moose in Canada!

    The only disappointment was just the volume of people and traffic; a stark contrast to eastern Canada. No where was this epitomised more than the horrible gateway town of Golden, which is little more than a town of truck stop cafes/fast food joints for travellers en route to Banff.

    Once in Banff National Park, we quickly came to Lake Louise. Whilst there were still a good number of people here, and despite the monstrous Fairmont hotel built on the shore, it was very beautiful, even in the rain.
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  • Day 4

    Banff

    July 19, 2019 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    We initially picked up the Trans-Canada highway to head for Banff itself, but jumped across to the Bow Valley Parkway for a more scenic drive. And what a joy that we did, as part way along we were treated to the fantastic site of a bear right by the roadside breaking apart a sodden log!

    The route to the campsite took us past Lake Minnewanka (hilarious name, obviously) which was as impressive as Lake Louise. There were plenty of deer in the nearby forests which were fabulous to watch. Our accommodation for the night is a 6-man tent, provided by Canadian National Parks, along with a stove, lamp, gas and 6 thermarests (which we stacked up for comfort!). Once checked in, we headed out to Banff town for tea (a slap up meal at McDonalds) and a drive along side of the Vermilion Lakes to wildlife spot some more, sadly to no avail. With breakfast bought - and kept in the car boot so as not to attract bears - we headed for bed.

    Number plate update: New York, New Jersey, Virginia, Idaho, Arizona, Colorado, Pennsylvania, Michigan, Wisconsin, New Hampshire, Montana, Minnesota, Nebraska (19/50)
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  • Day 5

    Banff in the rain

    July 20, 2019 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    The night in the forest was sadly a little restless - nothing to do with the equipment, just couldn't get comfy so had almost no sleep. The rain continued all night (and for most of the day too) so when we left the park for breakfast and sightseeing, the mountains were shrouded in cloaks of low cloud. We visited Johnson Lake, Surprise Corner and Bow Falls lookout, which were serene at such an early hour and were treated to seeing some more moose, sadly not with antlers. We drove up the switchbacks to Mt Norquay to lookout over Banff, and stopped at Hoodoo lookout, which was spectacular (but was no Bryce Canyon).Read more

  • Day 5

    Calgary

    July 20, 2019 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Continuing east for the day, we headed into Calgary. Whilst the Calgary Tower was closed, the rest of the city was fascinating. Nutella pretzels are clearly a wonder to behold despite the nightmare it is to actually try and eat one! We stumbled across a Hare Krishna Festival of Chariots parade before heading for some beer sampling at the Craft Beer Market. Then on the way to the Fiestaval Latin festival in Olympic Plaza, we passed a pedal pub - a dozen or so people cycling and drinking their way around town!

    The hotel for this evening is the Grey Eagle Resort...an actual Indian Casino hotel! We headed briefly out to go go-karting but thunder and lightning put pay to that, so instead we spent the evening gambling a little (1c slots, of course - we did not win) and making good use of the pool and hot tub.

    Number plate update: Alaska, Missouri (21/50)
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