Living in: Hobart, Australia Read more Hobart, Australia
  • Day 12

    Wrap it up

    April 26 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We leave you with a cute pic of two little grubs; happy, bundled, and very glad to have completed this adventure. Thank you for reading along, mwah xoxo

  • Day 6

    Day Six - Bert Nichols to Lake St Clair

    April 20 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Imagine the joy, when, after just finally drifting off into proper sleep for the night around 4am, our alarm (a near silent buzz buzz from Dylan's watch, we're not animals) went off. 5am. My favourite time to get up.

    In all fairness, this was the only morning of the trip that getting out of 'bed' was hard. All other mornings we've happily sprung up for a trip to the loo as soon as even a hint of daylight made it through the window. I think it was the distinct lack of any light at all that made this one a bit grating. Still, we had business to attend to.

    With levels of efficiency that would've got us hired by a Grand Prix pit crew, we readied ourselves for the day ahead and stowed away our gear. Off we went into the dark, guided by head torches and the ever-nearing promise of a burger.

    The walk today was dull. No views, STILL no wombats (I'd like to have a word to someone about this), and the mud/tree roots had far overstayed their welcome at this point. I had enjoyed neither breakfast NOR coffee, and, crucially, had no lollies left to munch on from my hip pocket. Morale was low. The Stumbles, Mumbles, and Grumbles we'd been warned about started to appear, as, according to our watch distance, we should be there by now - where the F is this hut???

    Spirits were boosted (mine, anyway) at the arrival of the suspension bridge. As loved ones will know, anything I can venture out onto and bounce around on above thin air is a great time for me. Also, we knew from this point that Narcissus was not far away.

    We got there, quickly got very cold, and sat around for a torturous snack-less half hour before it was time for the ferry. The ferry ride ended up being markedly beautiful, clear skies, sparkling water, and grand mountains surrounding us on every side. My mind was firmly, single-mindedly, resolutely, fixed on a shower and a burger at this point though, and so these regal vistas barely registered. Sorry mountains.

    We arrived, and after some stern words to the man at the lodge desk who claimed I had not paid for the ferry booking and now, in fact, needed to (please sir kindly check through your receipt book and CLEARLY FIND MINE), we made a frenzied beeline to the showers.

    I simply cannot say enough about this shower. Did I see God, yes, yes I did. Did it change my life, undoubtedly. Did I literally laugh out loud in joy for its entire 5 minute duration, I think I did, yes. What a fucking blessing hot water can be. I emerged truly euphoric, wrapped up in clean cozy clothes that we had left ourselves in the car.

    Sitting in the lodge eating area, I stumbled my way through the onslaught of notifications phone reception had afforded me, and manically drained an excellent strong flat white. Then, it was time. The prophecy unfolded before us. Heavens gates swung open. The burgers had arrived.

    The euphoria awakened earlier by the shower was back with gusto, I could barely chew and swallow through the drooling, dazed smile that was plastered on my face. It was absolutely incredible.

    After the haze lifted enough for me to gain control of my motor functions, we strolled down to the lake's edge. We sat in the sun, we got pictures at the sign, we got our passes stamped at the visitor centre like children, we treated ourselves to dessert, and we met up with The Girls, who had been on the next ferry after us, and all bid each other friendly goodbyes.

    Finally, we got in the car. A journey come to an end. How strange it felt. How bizarre to suddenly be ripping kilometres away at, seemingly, the speed of light. After a long journey home, we arrived, unpacked our bags, and, as any sane person would do, ordered pizza and coke.
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  • Day 5

    Bert Nichols Hut

    April 19 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Readers, we beat The Stragglers. We were, in fact, the very first ones here. Thank you, thank you, I know.

    We weren't sure what to expect at this hut, it being one of the older ones, and therefore not likely to follow the layout we've gotten used to. It turned out to be one of our favourites. A great portion of this, in hindsight, was simply the weather we had here. The couple of other days we've spent hanging around the huts after short walk legs have been somewhat boring. Cold and rainy outside, and not much space or comfort inside. Yes I UNDERSTAND why they don't provide couches or simply cushions, but would've loved one. Anyway, here we received such sunshine and warmth that it turned our hut experience into something completely new and wonderful. The hour or so I spent laying face down outside on the sunny helipad was a joy I can only imagine rivals how lizards feel on rocks. It was sublime. I couldn't believe the luxury of warmth on my body and birdsong in my ears.

    The joy continued as, bolstered by the sunlight, we partook in some of the only socialising we did on the trip (introverts unite), as we joined a group sitting around together out on one of the wooden tent platforms. Soaking up the sunshine together, laying around like cats, we discussed all the various nicknames we've each bestowed upon each other; what our packs weighed; what we wished we'd brought (mainly more snacks); and what the first thing we were looking forward to doing was when we finished. Everyone had great curiosity about what it was the Elite Athletes did in their personal lives to achieve this status. Dylan got the great satisfaction of being able to simply say he was a runner, to much oohs, ahhs, general understanding and head nodding. Anyone who also plays roller derby and has had to explain that fact to someone will intuitively understand that I was not afforded the same response. It was accepted however, with less enthusiastic and slightly confused head nodding. Hannah, of The Girls, shared her lollies and I even ended up being the recipient of a snack sized Picnic bar, to my obscene delight. It was truly lovely (the socialising, not just the chocolate) and I'm very glad we joined in.

    We eventually tucked ourselves into bed on the large communal bunk platforms (imagine a ground platform and then one above it, both able to fit about 8 people across). Blessedly, Dylan and I were the only people on our top platform, and there were only two people below us on the bottom. Having successfully avoided being sardines (ALWAYS go for the most furthest away room) we were quite chuffed at being able to snuggle up next to each other for night. Snuggling is actually impossible when your sleeping mats slide away from under you and you're in separate sleeping bags, but it was nice in spirit.

    We awoke at 5am, and were on the way by 6am - hoofing it through to catch the 9.30am ferry from Narcissus Hut (we'd skip staying the night here) back to Lake St Clair. This was a lightly stressful realisation we'd come to partway through the trip: I'd booked the ferry (for some unknown reason) too early on our last day. Therefore, we either had to double up and do our last two days together, staying at Narcissus instead of Bert Nichols so we would already be there for the ferry the next morning, or, as we decided on, get up early enough to complete the walk there in time.

    This all worked out splendidly and we made it. Back at Lake St Clair though, guess who found out that it wasn't actually 9.30am SATURDAY she'd booked the ferry (which had been the confusing factor, why had I done that and not given us enough time??) but 9.30am Sunday, which would've allowed us time to complete the last walk at leisure and stay the night at Narcissus Hut......... Not me, that's for sure.
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  • Day 5

    Day Five - Kia Ora to Bert Nichols

    April 19 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Last night's hint of clear skies rang true this morning and we applauded the arrival of another beautiful day. Cathedral Mountain was glistening in the dawn light, our packs/food were free of mouse holes, and we knew today was Waterfall Day - what a treat.

    Today's walk is another fairly short one, made longer, however, with the addition of the short side trips to see the falls. While I was set on doing these, we also had An Issue. Staying at Kia Ora (the hut we were departing from this morning) was a group of 5 stragglers that belonged to the collection of walkers who set out from Cradle the day before our group. Roughly 32 walkers depart each day, and mostly stay together the entire week, unless some people double up some days or take a rest day. This is allowed, as there is no time limit on when you have to end your walk. I appreciate this flexibility, HOWEVER. What it also means, unavoidably, is that you may arrive at a hut to find a number of beds already taken, forcing members of the arriving group to go without. Now, luckily, between the number of beds at Kia Ora and the number of our group who chose to camp anyway, no one went without. Our concern came for the night ahead of us, which was to be spent at Bert Nichols Hut, an older hut that has less beds (24), while our group numbered 29 + these 5 stragglers. Audience, I can humbly tell you that Dylan and I would ROT before we handed up beds to these people. Once more, the race was on.

    In all seriousness, we do think PWS would be wise to implement a fairness system addressing this. A solution, should they call on me for consultation, could be as follows. Walkers may stray from the traditional daily schedule as they wish, however, if they are to spend a night at a hut that isn't the traditionally scheduled hut for that night of their trip, they must camp. This still allows for freedom and flexibility, but doesn't rob anyone of a bed who is simply doing the walk as prescribed. The group of 5 in question were having a rest day at Kia Ora (no I was NOT eavesdropping) and so had already got their night indoors - if you wanna stay another, go outside. I am known for my kindness.

    Anyway, we weren't too worried, as we'd established ourselves by this point to be some of the fastest walkers, and if it came to fisticuffs, I was ready. Off we went.

    The falls today were a trio, D'Alton, Fergusson, and Hartnett. The first two were coupled together, reached by descending like a mountain goat down a slope for about 1km, where the path branched off, D'Alton to the left and Fergusson to the right. I can confidently say that D'Alton is one of the COOLEST WATERFALLS I've ever seen. Dylan practically had to drag me away from the cliff edge from where we stood to view it, muttering "okay danger queen, that's enough" as I jumped and jived with joy. Scale: immense. Water: thundering. Rock pools: aplenty. Forest mermaids: hiding I'm sure. I was torn between throwing myself down into it and selling my soul to a tree sprite so I could live there forever as its mystical and mossy guardian. But alas, we had to go.

    Loving some punishment, we sped our way back up the slope, heads down poles out, hiking with a vengeance back up to the main track. Continuing on, we came across another turn off, for Hartnett. Oh. I had forgotten this one, I thought we had seen them all back down the previous track. Hm. While I very much wished to go bananas over another stream of water, Dylan pointed out that the 5 packs strewn around the track junction indicated that The Stragglers were down there. This was our chance. With some regret involved, we soldiered on. Next time Hartnett, next time.
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  • Day 4

    Day Four - New Pelion to Kia Ora

    April 18 in Australia ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    Those with an eye for patterns will have noticed I've been doing one post for the day's walking portion and one post for that night's hut. This post offers you a rare combo deal, as I only managed to take one picture of the walk...

    My excuse is that it was another rainy day today, meaning the phone stayed safely tucked away in a waterproof pocket. Also, more fog meant we couldn't see shit anyway. To be fair, the rain was forecast to be a downpour and we really only got a constant misty sprinkle, which was preferable.

    Today took us up up up to Pelion Pass, where we (apparently) passed through with two grand mountains either side of us - Ossa and Pelion East. I'll take their word on it. Then we descended the other side. A very simple journey, go up the hill and come back down.

    Kia Ora Hut is another of the new ones, although, a family of mice with an incredible sense of humour have taken up residence in the communal area heater, rendering it inoperable. These terrors are also responsible for venturing out in the night to gnaw through as many food supplies as they possibly can. We read about their exploits repeatedly in the hut journals that walkers leave entries in. I was not to be bested by a mouse, and took the (genius) measure of wrapping my food dry bag up in my stinky shirt. Smell the oat bars through that you whiskered shits. No, I take that back, mice are sweet, but keep your ickle paws off my snacks.

    I can tell you that this measure worked a treat. I should've shared it with The Girls, who were not so fortunate. Poor Hannah was treated to one of the little creatures RUNNING ACROSS HER FACE in the middle of the night, and apparently they lost a day's worth of food to the ferocious nibblers. I'm not sure what's worse, a mouse across your face or the reports in the hut journal of a girl shrieking in the middle of the night "there's a leech in my mouth there's a leech in my mouth!!!!" I think that one's a pretty clear winner actually.

    Anyway, this hut was a delight. The short day's walk meant a long time sitting around daydreaming about snacks we wished we had, but it also allowed time for the weather to clear. From our spot by one of the huge windows, a mountain slowly made its way out from the clouds. Cathedral Mountain, absolutely stunning. By its grand example, the rest of the area began to clear, and high hopes began to form for another fine day tomorrow.

    This hut was also the hut in which I discovered the 'hut selfie', an act I wish I'd made a daily feature. The process of trying to jump for the self timer at exactly the right moment produced results that were as entertaining as anything I could possibly hope for, being without wifi and reception.

    Kind regards,
    Velvet Worm xo
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  • Day 3

    Safe travels chapstick, safe travels

    April 17 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    A couple extras from Day Three, including the spot by the river where, as I stooped to rinse my hands in the water, my poor precious chapstick tumbled from my chest pocket into the stream 😭😭 "I'm sorry chapstick I'm sorry!!" I cried, feeling like I'd just abandoned a small child at a mall.

    I hope she washed up somewhere safe and sound, invigorated by her adventurous journey and excited to start a new life.
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  • Day 3

    New Pelion Hut

    April 17 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    While it is the 'new' Pelion Hut, this one is still older than the huts of the previous two nights, and it was cool to have a different vibe to the place. Straying from the previously explained hut layout, this one was almost like a big old house, with a verandah deck running all the way around. One half of the building was a long communal area, with 3 or 4 doors leading out into the second half of the building: bunk rooms. Felt a lot more school camp-ish.

    Again, the sun remained an absolute treat, and the deck railings soon became adorned with just about every bit of clothing and gear people had. With insane levels of smugness, the only damp thing I had were my boots, so they went out to get some sunshine. Something you hear over and over about the OLT is "embrace having wet feet, wet socks, wet shoes the whole time, don't fight it, you won't win, just get used to it". Well call me bloody world champ then 'cause I won. Dry socks/feet the whole time. Poles, fairly dry weather, and treating each stretch of mud like a fun ninja warrior course helped greatly.
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  • Day 3

    Day Three - Windemere to New Pelion

    April 17 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Wednesday. This was an exciting morning. After the trials of Monday, and a fairly boring day sitting around after Tuesdays short stretch, I cannot tell you how zippy we felt waking up to a crispy clear sky morning, knowing our longest day was waiting ahead for us.

    Today took us just shy of 17km, across a stunning plateau that had us gagging on dopamine, down down down and down some more to Frogg Flats (the tracks lowest point) and then up for a final climb to New Pelion Hut. Today was also the Day of the Fucking Tree Root, which were stepped over, slipped on, and generally mouthed off at for the next few days. One of my biggest tips for the OLT is to take hiking poles. I consider myself a fairly agile and sure-footed little scamp but good lord poles came in handy for the endless pools of mud, tangles of tree roots, and sketchy descents over rock. Plus they make you feel like some kind of human-spider hybrid.

    After enjoying a sunrise, we skipped off into the frosty morning, yapping away like happy rats. The sun was peeking out, we could actually see what was around us, and I had managed to sleep the night before, magic. We turned around to take in the view and were very happy to spot Barn Bluff behind us, the summit we hadn't been able to glimpse for the past two days. You can peep my photo of it through the trees.

    Walking across the plateau, in clear weather, was an absolute trip highlight. We were so blessed with weather this trip, shoutout Lady MC. I should've taken a panoramic pic, as we were surrounded on all sides by mountains. Ossa, Oakleigh, Barn Bluff, Pelion East & West, and some others who didn't tell me their names.

    Coming down onto the plateau was where I also achieved the first and only stack of the week, which greatly entertained both us and the couple walking just ahead of us. We were stepping down big sections of the track, and the step ahead of me had a smooth old log laying across, acting as the edge of the step. As we're all aware, in order to descend a step, one must step on it. Logs, however, are fucking slippery when wet with morning dew. Out flies the foot, down the step I go, landing half in a bush with one leg stretched out in front of me and the other trapped underneath my bag/body. As with 99% of my falls, came out completely and mystifyingly unscathed. I squawked and laughed and garnered a lot of attention as I tried and comically failed to get up. As well as sitting on one of my legs, I also had one of my arms outstretched, hand through the loop of my pole, while the end of the pole was firmly wedged under my arse. In hindsight, anyone who wasn't a fucking idiot would've just slipped their hand out and let go of the pole. Spoiler alert, I didn't. I was helped up like a toddler who's gone 'dead bug' and all was well. The couple nearby were also very impressed with the fact my watch immediately started buzzing and beeping at me that I'd had An Emergency and that it was contacting Dylan Dewhurst at once. How cute, how earnest.
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  • Day 2

    Windermere Hut

    April 16 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    This was the hut in which I'm pretty I earned the other, less public, nickname of 'that bitch who won't stop coughing'. To be fair, I'd hate me too.

    Jokes aside I still had my week long cough at this stage, and yet it hadn't developed into anything worse - I had zero other symptoms, just an incredibly annoying dry cough that was just about as frequent as blinking. Writing this now, I can now upgrade it to a Two Week Cough, but still, no other symptoms. I don't know what's stranger, that, or the fact no one bonked me over the head in the middle of the night.

    Still, another stunning hut. It was here we discovered the joys of the corner bunk arrangement, and also discovered that Dylan is absolutely fucking woeful at remembering where any given one of his possessions is, even if he just touched it, or put it in a 'safe place'. Let's not hold it against him though cause he did make almost all my hot drinks and meals all week. #redemption

    We unwillingly shared a room with the Canberra group. 3 girls 1 boy, early 20s, had attempted to camp the first night and succeeded in getting all their gear, including sleeping bags wet. Send them home immediately. No, they were fine, god bless them. They were a cheery lot - I have never encountered people to be in such a constant state of giggle fits. Six days of something being the funniest thing in the world, it's pretty admirable really. Slay.
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  • Day 2

    Day Two - Waterfall Valley to Windemere

    April 16 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Time got very simple on the OLT. Go to bed when it's dark, get up when it's not, walk until the next hut and sit around until it's dark again.

    After a night spent laying awake for, no hyperbole, ALL OF IT, I sprung out of bed the second dawn whispered its arrival. Garmin had me down as bagging a sweet 15 min of light sleep and nothing else. Checks out. Spent somewhat of a fragile morning sipping my chai and insisted Dylan draw me an analogue Wordle to do. Which he did, god bless him. I got it in 3, for those curious. Slay.

    We quickly set a routine of No Fucking Around in the mornings, and discovered we belong to the majority camp of 'wake, pee, brush teeth, wash face, have a cuppa and some quick brekky, pack your shit and get going'. I can see the appeal of slow mornings and taking the time to soak up the hut and the peace once everyone's departed, but please do remember the points I made in the previous post about bunk-competition. No time to waste.

    Today's walk was very short. 7.8km from memory. Would perhaps be the most unremarkable day of the trip to be honest if it wasn't for the glorious fact that we experienced a weather shift halfway through. The misty foggy rain from the day before suddenly lifted, the clouds parted and slowly began to drift away, and actual sunshine hit our disbelieving faces. Talk about putting a pep in your step. Insane how much of a luxury some simple sunshine can be when you're spending your days outdoors. Layers came off, phones came out, and shit eating grins were documented. As well as some exceptionally pretty fagus.
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