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  • Day 37

    Arzua to A Rua

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    For an unknown reason, I just assumed that the last 100 km would be easier than the other 700. I thought this because perhaps as we approached the coast, we would be nearer sea level, and it would be flatter. I thought because it is so tourist like that why would tourists of the Camino flock to the last 100 km if it was hard? I thought we left the mountains and the peaks in the other kilometres. I was wrong. The last three days have been quite difficult with hills and descents. The hills are as steep as they were in the beginning and the descents just as steep. Today, I only walked about 18 km so it felt much easier, but definitely, am beginning to feel an accumulated tiredness from the last 800 km. Tomorrow is the final day on the Camino Frances and it will be about 20 km to Santiago.

    Today was a day of capturing some images because realizing that this is ending, is becoming real. When I walk to the coast, I expect the scenery to be more rugged and exposed compared to the quaint and pleasant forests and villages we have passed. I had time today to spend some time in a restaurant and have a pilgrim lunch. It was still quite warm today with 95% humidity, and despite some of the hills a really pleasant day.

    I arrived at my hotel at the beginning of the village Rua which is also popular with tourists travelling by car. I am thankful to be able to stay here tonight and not have to venture outside the hotel for dinner. I checked in quickly and then joined my German friends for a beer on the patio. Also thankfully, they have some cortisone cream for my hiker's rash I have developed, so hopefully that helps a rather angry rash.

    So over the last 800 km, there are a few things I have noticed time and time again, and they have become quite ordinary and expected during the last weeks, but I thought today would be a good time to get it down on this page. For example, historically, and currently, the Spaniards plant their trees in clear rows. The forests are often organized in lines, even very old trees. The flowers...the first weeks were filled with poppies, but also all along were roses. Roses covering walls, growing up trees. Recently, I am seeing more hot weather plants like a hydrangea, and I even saw a palm tree today.

    Today also seemed to be a day of wisdom. We passed the wall of wisdom. Later on a fellow who wrote a book on the Camino was set up along the Way, offering his book for a donation! I donated, and am looking forward to reading about his experiences, especially since now it will resonate with me more clearly since I just walked it myself.

    The forecast for tomorrow into Santiago is rain! I have not walked much in the rain yet, so I suppose it is about time I experience the full scope of a Spanish rain as I walk toward Santiago.
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