Much has changed since I walked this in 2012. There has been a lot of work done placing logs and boards along the trail to protect the marshes from being further damaged by pilgrim traffic. This makes it easier for pilgrims too, but I was told that protection of the marshes was the reason, not the ease of pilgrims.
In addition, there has been some re-routing to the trail, and it now passes directly in front of a large gapahuk style shelter that was at just the right place for an early lunch. I was joined there by Carmen, the Swiss woman who had been at Gumdal last night.
While we were sitting there, the first of a large German church group walked through without stopping or greeting us. The rest of the group were not all that far behind, and exchanged greetings. Later, I learned that this group would fill the Skaun Parish House, and the remainder of the pilgrims in Skaun were going to stay with a local family on their farm.
During the day I was passed by and passed Matthais and Marika, a couple from Hamberg, and the church group. At some stage I found myself with just the path in front of me, so I decided not to take another break until I reached Skaun. Little did I know that this would give me priority on the shower when I got to the Skauge's farmhouse.Read more