Paddle. Pickle. Palace.

Today was just awesome!

We got up early, had a quick breakfast at the hotel, and then hit the road to Lübbenau. Our destination: Kanuverleih Richter, where I had reserved a comfort canoe—because let’s be honest, with every year that passes, a little more comfort goes a long way!

After a brief intro and a route suggestion, Sanjay and I set off into the maze of Spreewald waterways. And wow—what an experience. The world slows down on water. We paddled through wide canals and narrow channels, shaded forests and open meadows, with the sun warming our backs and a soft breeze in our faces. It was serene, meditative, and just plain stunning.

Eventually, we glided into Lehde again—this time from the water, which made the fairytale village feel even more magical. A fun detail: a proper village sign greeted us at the canal entrance, just like you’d find on a regular road. But here, the waterways are the streets, and signs on water are a must.

We took a short break at the museum pier to grab some drinks and a snack, then made our way back. After three hours of paddling, we returned the canoe and strolled straight over to the harbor, where Lübbenau’s famous Gurkenmeile—pickle mile—awaited. It’s still early in the season, so it was more of a pickle corner, but we sampled our way through the local specialties and stocked up on our favorites for later.

On the way back to the car, another regional treat caught my eye: Quarkkeulchen—like doughnuts’ fluffier cousin, rolled in sugar and just impossible to resist.

But the day wasn’t over yet! We made our way to Straupitz to visit the Holländermühle, Europe’s only fully functioning triple mill. One single windmill powers a flour mill, a linseed oil press, and a sawmill. Fascinating and beautifully preserved!

After a bit of a rest back at the hotel, we ended the day in style with dinner at Restaurant Linari in the palace of Lübbenau. We went for the 5-course tasting menu. A perfect end to a perfect Spreewald day.Read more