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Cycling Southern Spain

July - August 2018
July 2018 - Aug 2018 Read more
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  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 1

    Scorchio

    July 30, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Stupid early wake up - 6am flight - 4am check-in - 3am set off from home 2.30 wake-up = grumpy John. All went smoothly enough until check-in ... massive queue & sudden announcement for the final call for check-in to Granada (110 mins before departure) not happy - anyone intending to fly had to go to desks 38-39. Looked & no-one was there - happier. Got there & dumped the bike allbeit at the second attempt - first outsized belt had packed up. Rest of it was something of a sleep deprived haze. Bodes well for safe cycling (good job there's a helmet to hand) Handily was on the back row - first off and barely was affected by the epically long immigration process for an American / African couple - only 1 officer on duty. Bike was first off & almost got it built before the bus had departed for town. A fee little adjustments & a few dirt tracks but all in all a nice little loosener. That said things were getting hot. Managed to check-in early & had a quick dip to cool off. Despite the heat it seemed rude not to have a look around. Followed the hotel map through the Gothic quarter towards Mirador St Nicholas which offered great views of the Alhambra. Bit of a hike - but worth it. Decided I ought to have a look around the Alhambra - another big hike in 39° heat & not worth it - they'd sold out. Appatently they can sell out months in advance. Ambled back admiring a bizarre tepanyaki style ice cream maker - ludicrously expensive - so it was literally admire. Much busier at the hotel so no cooling off in the pool yet...Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 2

    False flats & flies

    July 31, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Another early start, in theory to beat the heat. Some chance. Left the hotel in darkness & it was on the verge of hitting 20° That said it was pleasant enough cycling apart from all the red lights. Inevitably things headed upwards along with the sun. The gradients weren't too steep and on arriving at Lanjaron the high street offered something of a surprise. It's entire length shaded by an length of tarpaulin - flags dotted in for decoration. Would that they could do this up the imminent mountain. Clearly things get seriously hot here. No time to visit the Honey museum, unfortunately. Got to make as much progress as possible by 11. That said at the current pace it was looking likely that I would just be hitting the base of the big mountain pass at that time. 14 miles of up in the midday heat - mad dogs and Englishmen. Qualify for one of those if not a very patriotic one. Satnavs can be something of a mixed blessing - showing the profile isn't great but can't be resisted. Seemingly flattening out with miles of climbing to go provokes hope only to innevitably be dashed. Breaks were strategically placed wherever shade could be found - temp differences being around 10°. Between was something of a crawl - no chance of outpacing the delightful flies. Eventually made the summit which on arrival was 1300m. Following lunch the Satnav had changed its mind - 1280m. Don't think I'd eaten enough to cause a mountain to sink 20m. From here it was the joyous knowledge of 12 miles downhill all the way to the hotel. As they say 'a technical descent' full of switchbacks and hairpins. No chance of silly speeds (that was earlier in the day) God knows how hot the wheel rims got though - fast, brake, fast, brake repeat ad nauseam. By the end my hands were aching. Checked in and promptly plonked myself in front of the aircon. Once some semblence if coolness had been acquired time for a little explore & swim.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 3

    Fog, fierce winds & firey heat

    August 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    The profile suggested a fairly easy day (& rather long) The surprising presence of fog suggested the fierce temperatures mights also be tempered. How wrong I could be. To a point the temperature was bearable for a little longer - clocked 30 miles reasonably quickly. That's where the wheels fell off - not literally, but not far off. The inevitable dirt track wasn't wholly surprising, what was was the gate at the end ... that was locked and then the depressing sinking feeling of a tyre deflating. Opted to do repairs at the gate on the off chance someone would appear & let me out - they didn't. The first of many detours. The vast majority of the day consisted of endless miles of cycling roads surrounded by greenhouses - the very definition of intensive farming & very tedious cycling. To top it off a vicious wind had blown up & it was a direct headwind. It looked like it would be pretty much all the way as well. The only respite tended to be in urban areas - which also offered a vague degree of interest. Almeria, the main city offered a park dedicated to victims of terrorism & a renovated train line used for quarrying. From there it was across the Cabo de Gato National Park, though that seems a little generous, more a seemingly endless barren scrub land. But hey whatever floats your boat. A couple of breaks purely out of need - no shade. Managed to get 1 mile of tailwind with about 8 miles to go. As it transpired it was 6 - satnav miscounted again. Checked in - in Spanish - very friendly host. Aircon & swim cooling off combo. Las Salinas is not the biggest but a little explore & a huge fish supper.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 4

    Cycling in a desert in a heatwave - hmmm

    August 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The starts are getting earlier - not that it does much good. The sound of the wind rattling the shutters didn't bode well. Thankfully it wasn't too bad & I was braving a range of dodgy turns that could end up track like. Took in a monument to the spaghetti westerns & you could see why this area was chosen. I later found out that it is the only desert in Europe. Not a good idea in a heat wave. Some turns were just ignored for the good of mine & my bikes health - detours = extra miles = bad but better than punctures. Hoped that one detour would miss out the big climb - it did not. For good measure acooling pre-climb swim - didn't help. Good views from the top. Proceeded to battle through an undulating route - which by the end even the smallest of pimples were being tackled in 1st or 2nd. Took another swim but while it was very nice - the faff of getting changed meant I was as hot afterwards as before & the sand was baking hot - felt like my feet were frying - I imagine. Very relieved to get into Aguilas. Chinese food & rehydration salts the order if the day.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 5

    A lucky detour.

    August 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Out & about sharpish. Along the seafront promenade - a world away from last night - less noise, people and sun. Then uphill, except each & every option ended up being a dirt track. Ended up on what looked like a motorway (but no keep out cyclists signs) Assumed that satnav had rejected this route on the basis of the motorway but the absence of signage & the reduced distance meant it was worth a shout. What was the worst that could happen? Another traffic offence in Spain - surely not. After a couple of minutes I was a little more relaxed - no horns so prob ok. Use the term loosely since it was a fairly incessant climb & then a puncture. Where all the flies appear from god only knows. Down to 1 inner tube - got to be careful. Hopeful that this was the only climb of the day so enjoyed the view - sort of. Down onto the plains & while it was clearly farming territory not a lot was being done. Equally few places to pass through - lots of on hoof navigation to protect the tyres - for all that the total distance was still 5 miles than planned. Relied on petrol stations for cold drinks & food - classy. Some way out, it became clear that tomorrows cycle may well be a bit too much. 80 miles in an area where the government are urging caution. E out of 4 days of low 40s and some evidence of dehydration. Unfortunately the weather has beaten me. Never thought it would be too sunny. Anyway, hire car sorted and a slightly more relaxed weekend in prospect. That said, getting to Murcia airport may prove hard work with it being 30km away without public transport...Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 6

    First day of cheating.

    August 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    What was supposed to make life easier & to a certain extent safer initially didn't seem to be all it was cracked up to be. Various minor ailments suggested that 80 miles wasn't the smartest of options but getting to Murcia airport & then negotiating the bizarre intricacies of the rental agreement pushed the stress levels way beyond what an imminent mountain could. It's the first time I've had to deal with a downgrade & having to pay for a tank of petrol without being due warned. Back to the hotel & the receptionist thought I was clincally insane to have done what I'd already done. Because of the 4 wheels & motor there was a little more freedom. Decided to head towards Elche - a world herritage site - a historic palm grove (but that doesn't really do the size justice) In an outlying town there was the obligatory Christ statue on a mountain - they love him in the latin parts. Afraid it was quite Rio though. Made it to Elche & proceeded to go round in circles trying to find somewhere to park. That sorted headed to the visitor centre - ambled around the main palm area - lots of shade = good. Then went with the recommendation - climb the cathedral tower. 170 steps in 40° heat - going to be sweaty. Views were good & showed the scale of the palms. Had some ice cream on the way back to the car. Heading off to the hotel, passed a number of castles - clearly a sought after neck of the woods at one point. Stopped at Saxo Castle - closed but could walk up the hill to it. Made it to the hotel by 6 - refreshed & relatively sweat free. I was told about the fiesta that was happening tonight. The towns great & good were running a racing around Moixant - in this heat. Surely they need to rethink the date of their fiesta - August is always stupid hot. Wasn't tempted in the slightest but made entertaining viewing for a while. Headed back to watch the match.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 7

    Future world with free parking thrown in

    August 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Interesting post bike packing breakfast - lots of local toast toppings & not much else. Some I got marmalade & peach jam, there was the usual Spanish tomato thing, a honey & something else spread that clearly was less than the sum of the parts & the climax - a soft cheese with truffle shavings in - surprisingly good. Packed up & set out the next leg of the castle trail. Tried to get up to the local watchtowers but parking was limited, the road was narrow & I was jittery about the car getting scratches - '€300' they said. Pushed on & not 10km had passed & another castle. Managed to get a bit closer with aircon ie the car. As before nice views, striking location & closed. Take the hint. Next 2, decided to admire from a distance - namely the motorway. Thankfully, the first burst of Valencia in the car would be Sunday morning & even more thankfully I found a spot near the hotel. Some kind gent made sure I didn't pay - apparently Mon - Sat 9am - 4pm. Just means I need to head off somewhere before 9 - doable. Decided to try & see as much of the city today & do the beach tomorrow morning. First stop - The Mestalla Stadium - Valencia FC & site of a certain Mr R Benitez's first great successes. Had to go a pay homage. Bit of a battle getting there in that it was just so hot - still. Tried to take it easy but sweat was pouring off. Took a strategic aircon break & evetually made it. Quiet a striking stadium. Found the stadium tour window & eventually figured out that they'd stopped the tours 30 mins earlier. Ho-hum. Back to the madly weird views of the Science & Arts district where I was staying. In this heat indoor exhibitions were the way to go. Couldn't find the entrance to the Palais Artes - which was something of a relief. Next the Hemispheric which turns out was a big Imax cinema & they were showing a NASA film on the journey to Mars. Originally I'd planned to go to the science museum but this was too tempting. On returning at the set time of 4 & finding an epic queue with more than the requisite quota of noisy children I was less sure. Eventually settled in to my seat with my stupid headset on. To be fair, while it was clearly just a NASA puff piece biggibg themselves up, it was still impressive.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Southern Spain
    Day 8

    Dealing with the Ryanairs of this world.

    August 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Car parking charges starting at 9am necesitated an early start. On packing up it dawned that I'd left my razor at the last place - this cheating has robbed me of my routines - what else will I forget because of this laziness. Had a last little walk amongst the puddles, for there was a thunderstorm last night - hadn't made it any cooler. Headed down towards the beach and got a free parking space so was happy. Off for a swim so a bit of repacking was due. Amazingly at just after 9 things were fairly busy. Found a quietish spot and had my dip. Nice and cooling. By the time I was back at the car all benefit had gone. More repacking & just a little worrying - while I'd booked the car from 12, the actual time I'd received the first car at was on the agreement & hadn't been amended in light if the fact I'd had to hang around for what I'd actually booked. Didn't really need to panic - 15 mins to the petrol station & a couple of mins beyond for the car hire. Copious photos & a bit of tidying. The guy had a cursory glance & all was good - possibly. Checked the card at the airport - the deposit had been refunded but the fuel hadn't yet. Hmmmm! Checked bike in easily enough aside from it not being on the boarding pass unless you scrolled down - cue panic. Had to take it airside with her, which meant closing down check in just for me. Expecting vicious looks when boarding. Finished off with an airpory paellla - not bad. Oh yes Manchester could learn a thing or two - trolleys free, wifi free & unlimited. Ah well Manchester is shit & lives upto it.Read more

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