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East Canada & the Fundy coast
  • John Bickerstaff

East Canada & the Fundy coast

A 16-day adventure by John Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 20, 2025
    John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Cheeseburger but no cheese.

    September 20 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Civilised flight times could catch on. Departing Manchester in the afternoon & arriving in Toronto in the afternoon courtesy of the time difference. The downside & it was a biggie - the derby was at the same time. Hmmm. Lee dropped us nice and early in the greyness of Manchester - weather and building itself. Queues to check-in even though online check-in had been negotiated earlier in the morning. Chilled with a second breakfast whilst keeping an eye on proceedings at Anfield. Boarding onto a plane with no wifi coincided with half time. Overheard suggestions that the reds were up by 2. So that was a nice way to start the flight. Couple of films - couldn't resist Blade Runner. Had a chat with a Canadian red who had been in Liverpool but got ill around the last game. Still didn't sound so good. First off the plane & smoothly through customs. Slick operation - very automated and quick. Baggage less so. Quick shuttle bus ride to the hotel to find it was in the midst of some sci-fi geek conference - very busy and noisy. Room on the top floor so that shouldn't be a problem. Initial thoughts of going into town were overtaken by fatigue - a 6pm tea time was actually 11 as far as body clocks were concerned. Ate and was utterly bemused by the concept of someone ordering a cheeseburger without the cheese - that's just a burger - had to be yanks. Glimpsed a far off view of the CN tower and made plans for Niagara.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    What can be forgotten?

    September 21 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Early coach booked to ensure plenty of time at the falls. Thus an early departure from the hotel. Jetlag ensured that, that early start was fairly easy - waking up at 2 but feeling 7. Free shuttle to the airport & the first of many Tim Hortons for breakie. Located the coach stop and on departure found that we'd be at the falls in 90 mins - "pretty darn good" apparently. Considering this is a local attraction to Toronto, that is a measure of how big Canada is. Badly chosen seats in front of a narky 2 year old & a lazy father. A promised cookie didn't help the grizzler when mum offered a banana. Wished the headphones hadn't been packed. The coach dumped at a park & ride out of town - just had to get to the falls now. It seemed without the water bottle - left on the coach. Dashed back in the hope the coach hadn't gone & the bottle was there. Lucked out for once - phew. Another free shuttle into town & another footie conversation, this time with a Celtic fan. At the visitor centre & just had to find a way to the hotel - either a funicular short cut or a dog leg walk. No choice. Still a bit of a hike. An ice machine at the hotel made up for not being able to check in. At least we could dump the bags. Now to the falls. The cruise was booked for 2.30 and it was a case of seeing what else was available. Plenty of views of the falls along the promenade. Stopped at the "Behind the falls" attraction & there was no queue so opted for that. Left tunnel dry, right tunnel wet. Right was the foot of the falls and it was indeed wet. Behind the falls was impressive if only to feel the power of the falls under your feet. Negotiated the endless gift shop & off to get royally soaked on a boat.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Two soakings in one day.

    September 21 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Onwards to the main event - a close call appointment with the falls and by all accounts something of a soaking. Tickets had been bought online so at least one potential for queuing had been eliminated. As it transpired a combination of a ruthless military operation and a relatively quiet day meant it was straight through to the boat but you could see how big the queues could be - snaking down to the quay was endless screens looping what was about to come. Ponchos were handed out - on a hot day, was it really needed. Pocketed it for the moment & that moment hit just as soon as we made it to the smaller American falls. As for the Horseshoe Falls - it was one heck of a soaking - good fun, nice and cooling. Good test of whether the phone is waterproof. And as for the photos - definitely pot-luck. Headed back to the hotel via the Rainbow Bridge - the bridge between Canada & the USA. Turns out, if you want to go on the bridge you need your passport & be prepared to leave Canada officially & the queue to re-enter was pretty massive. Opted to sample the 'joys' of Clifton Hill - all the charm & class of Blackpool or Vegas. From one of the most beautiful sights to one of the most tacky. Nice and dry by the time we got to the hotel - planned to relax & have a takeaway before heading back at night for the fireworks and lights. First sampling of Poutine - had to endure more stupidity at the takeaway - Poutine without the gravy - that's chips. On the way out noticed that there was a weather warning for thunderstorms in the next hour. Got outside to find that was out of date. Liz opted out. Smart. I did not. By the time I was at the promenade it was torrential. Got some photos of the lit up falls and called it a day. Wetter than the falls.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    CN Tower? Nah a lamp post.

    September 22 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Got down as soon as breakie was listed to begin to find a coach party had swallowed up all the seating. Eventually bagsied a spot & proceeded to try all the unhealthy options - had lots of orange juice though. Small matter of getting to the out of town park & ride where the coach departed. Since it was dry went for a walk to the falls where the shuttle bus headed out of town. Promenade was nice and quiet - couldn't decide if it was raining - it was spray. Relief to get the backpack off at the bus stop only to find out the buses didn't start till 10. Coach left at 10.30 so could wait for an hour & probably be ok or walk. Ticket office reckoned it was a 30 minute walk. Reasoned that that was a fat North American speed. We'd be faster but the luggage would balance it out. Passed a taxi & pondered but the die was cast. Would have been a nice walk along the upper rapids but for the backpack. Still made it in the half hour - no stress & coach all sorted to Toronto. On the approaches it was a case of trying to spot the CN Tower first - low clouds and rain didn't help. Not really a valid excuse for mistaking a lamp post for what was formerly the tallest building in the world. .Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Tower climb.

    September 22 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    On arrival took the subway out to avoid another 2 mile hike. Nice and easy to pay with swiping cards but clueless as to how much we're paying. Needs must. A couple of wrong turns and then finally the blessed relief of getting rid of the backpack much to the amusement of the lobby staff. Yet more joy when an early check-in was offered. Very nice 1 bed suite. Would've liked to stay longer - ah well. Quick chill, freshen up & then off out for food and to explore Toronto - only chance we'd have and the persistent rain on the way in seemed to have subsided. Priority was food but the CN tower was an absolute must as well. Nearby food court had a Thai and that couldn't possibly include fries so that worked. Had a little mooch around Toronto taking in the City hall and Plaza. From there it seemed easy enough to get to the tower according to the map. However there was no evidence of any entrance. Can't find a half km tall building. Ended up following a tour bus. Queue wasn't horrendous and as it turned out what was there was down to security checks. Once in it was all relatively quiet - as always dreaded to think what it would be like in August. Glass elevator up offered a taste of the views. They weren't shy of exploiting the view with bars taking up half the window space. Still impressive views of the city and the islands. Out towards Niagara clouds seemed to be looming & shrouding the high rises, hopefully not coming our way. Took in the original glass floor experience so they say. There were plenty of other ways in which they'd devised to disposess you of your money - an extra 30 storeys of tower, premium experience, tower hang. All ludicrously more expensive so no deal. Back down to head towards the lakeshore.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Cruising on a budget.

    September 22 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Back on firm earth opted to head to the lakeshore - a little more peaceful and maybe head over to the islands to get a better view of the city, depending on time, weather & costs. Ambled through the Toronto Railroad Museum - the contrast between the ultra modern skyscrapers & the old rail buildings was quite striking. At the quay noticed a harbour cruise which would be more expensive than the ferry but would be a little more relaxed ambled on pondering whether it was worth it. Eventually decided to go with the easy option but by the time we got back the cruise was just leaving. Ah well cheap ferry option it is with the added bonus of a quick mooch around one of the islands. Couldn't decide which to go with & the ticket agent couldn't care less - the tickets cost the same - pay & you decide. Obviously didn't say that but his face suggested it. Bagsied the right side of the boat for city views - all very relaxed. Decided to have 40 mins on the island to have a quick explore of the car free peace. Lots of geese though. Very pleasant.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Un peu Francaise

    September 23 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another early start to make sure we hit the station for the 10.30 train to Montreal. A little concerned that it was rush hour but plenty of space on the subway. Union Station was a little more hectic. Grabbed some breakie, then found the queue for the train. Slick operation - boarding passes checked, bags weighed & boarding staggered. Thankfully we were early so boarded early - lots of baggage space. Later on people were trying to cram in the craziest of spaces - had to intervene as someone was trying to squeeze my rucksack into somewhere it wouldn't come close to fitting. That done, a nice relaxing 5 hour journey ensued. Interesting to see as we crept further north the trees became more golden & autumnal. Passed through Cornwall - not appropriately named. Curious how the French announcements suddenly took preference when the train crossed into Quebec. Late lunch at a very french style food court at the station. Confused the server - Feyenoord top & Liverpool hoodie. Explain please. A little more footie chat and some authentic Quebec poutine. Hotel was under a mile away & 5 hours sat down meant a walk wasn't the worst option. Checked in eventually and checked in on the reds. Sun came out so thought a little explore should be done. Subway strikes tomorrow so quick dash out to the Olympic Park. Unfortunately the highest inclined tower in the world was closed for renovation - opens 2027 - not even close. Nearby botanic gardens were charging $25 so that wasn't an option. Decided to hop over the river to St Helen's Island and have a little explore of the park. Just missed the ferry back so back on the subway.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Old things.

    September 24 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The luxury of a lie-in & being awake at 6. Looking grey outside didn't bode well. Today's footie chat was a friendly guy at the local supermarket - impressed by the Liverpool transfer window. Smart opinions and a cheap breakie - happy days and proper pain au chocolat. The forecast was that things would pick up in the afternoon so skyscrapers shrouded in low cloud suggested walking up to Mont Royale summit would be pretty pointless this morning. Old town Montreal and the historic port it was. Took in nearby Chinatown on the way. $16 to get in the cathedral was a hard pass. The pedestrianised cobbled alleys and lanes were great to explore and a world away from anywhere else in North America as far as I can see. Headed onwards to the old port and the trees along here were full on autumn as was the weather - no rain but the waterproof was keeping the wind off. Couldn't imagine any improvement in the weather. Took in the clock tower, looking out over the promenade designed to break up any icebergs incoming from the Gulf of St Lawrence. Apparently they can be upto 15m. The big wheel and zip-line were in the same pricey ball park as the cathedral - there's a sentence that is incongruous. Tried and failed to find a take-out creperie.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Shut up legs

    September 24 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Even as we were heading back to the hotel there were hints of brightness but a short break later and a confused exchange with one of the room staff - no soap left. Not a clue what that was in french and similarly for her in English. Might get a refill - we'll see. Off out again to enjoy the views from Mont Royale park. The name was something of a clue - going to be a bit of a climb. First things first, through town - stopped at the jumbo chess boards and watched a game - not sure how good they were. Suspect not great as checkmate came about fairly quickly. The uphill started a little after that. Turned of the road onto the grand staircase and that didn't bode well for fatigued legs. Reminded Liz of a favourite cyclist Jens Voigt who when he was in a breakaway and was knackered would shout repeatedly 'Shut up legs' Whether it helped him is debatable. Didn't help Liz. The prospect of cake at the cafe at the top did a little. To be fair the views of Montreal were stunning in the autumn sunshine - something that didn't seem possible this morning. Adjourned to the cafe to find it closed and the only snack option was ludicrously overpriced maple popcorn. And so the addiction was born. Up there with crack cocaine I reckon. God it was good. Took an alternative route down to take in a Montreal icon - a Schwartz deli sarnie. Never have I seen as much meat crammed into a sarnie as this.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Outdoors - bad, indoors - good.

    September 25 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    A wet day, or at least that was the forecast so the plan was to explore Montréal's subterranean city. Virtually all the major facilities and functions can be accessed via the subway and a series of access passages and thus the extreme cold of winter can be mitigated. We just wanted to avoid getting wet. The small matter of getting to the nearest access point. Unsurprisingly no-one was playing chess - all boxed up. First stop Place des Artes which unsurprisingly was architecturally adventurous but otherwise pretty much deserted except for a noisy school party - the memories. Back via a couple of government offices and the first of many shopping malls. Over the days we had noticed that the main street - Rue St Catherine was fairly quiet - this is where everyone was. The malls and food courts were very busy. Interesting to see how a city can exist entirely undercover - though if there was ever a power cut, Montréal would crumble. Stopped around half way for lunch - some tasty Mexican. Throughout the signposting had been impeccable, that was until the last main mall - try as we might we couldn't get out. Took 2 separate sets of instructions from the information booth. Reckon it was a case of make it hard to leave so you spend more. Not how I work. Eventually reached the end of the loop and just a short hop back to the hotel to get ready for the Ice Hockey.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Canada the brave.

    September 25 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    If there's a sporting entity that is quintessentially Canadian it's Ice Hockey - the national sport and something of a religion in these parts. And if there was a Canadian game to go to it probably would be one between Montréal and Toronto. Admittedly the tickets were up in the gods and it was a pre-season friendly but my suspicion would be that no game between these two was likely to be friendly aside from Ice Hockey being a fairly brutal and combative sport anyway. Short hop to the Bell Centre - part of the subterranean city, then lots of stairs - no escalators - hmmm. Grabbed a snack & then to the seats and this is no ordinary ice rink - absolutely massive. Some gratuitous national anthem singing & then the main event - lots of men flying around the ice hitting a chunk of metal at high speeds and ramming each other into the rink wall. What's not to like. Other than when they scored not a clue what was going on but it was fun if a bit stop - start. Bizarrely they had 3 halfs of 20 mins and after two of those Half's 90 minutes had passed it dawned that with an early start tomorrow it might be prudent to call it a day. Montreal were 5 - 2 down so things were a bit subdued. Getting out of the arena was a little challenging but made it back to see the final whistle / siren on TV. Montreal conceded 2 more goals.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Apple Nirvana

    September 26 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Sleep was somewhat elusive so stupid o'clock turned into quarter to stupid. The subway strikes necessitated using a taxi to get to the airport & he was duly waiting 10 mins before he was due. Roads were quiet and a taxi lane got us there in no time. Self serve check-in is great if it works - typically it ran out of baggage tags. Shepherded to the solitary assistant able to help & then to the appropriate drop off for backpacks. All a bit fraught & wandered off without my passport - not like in San Francisco when I realised the other side of the airport but still away from the machine. Oops. Through the photon torpedo baggage scanners & grabbed some breakie. All was going swimmingly - boarded & was informed by the captain that it was likely to be a bit bumpy on the way to Halifax. Thought nothing of it & complimented Liz on how relaxed she was. Famous last words. 20 mins in just as they were going round with the trolley & the seatbelt sign goes on. And boy does it go. The attendants struggled to get the trolley back, one fell over and bits and pieces flew everywhere. Liz was not happy & definitely not relaxed anymore. In fairness two of the staff popped by once things calmed down to check in with her. Thought she'd do a Pope kissing of the ground on disembarking. The book vending machine cheered her up. The upgrade on the car hire cheered me up not that it bothered me. Sorted the Satnav and onwards to New Brunswick. Hotel in Moncton gave us an early check-in so dumped bags and formulated a plan mainly focussed on hitting one of the local apple PYO. By now the rain had cleared & it was bright sunshine. The farm was on a hill with gorgeous views & apples. Apparently they needed to be treated carefully as they were a bit delicate this year. Had one on the way round and then a couple on the bench chilling & taking in the surroundings. Chatted to the owner about our plans & her plans for visiting the UK. Bags full of apples sorted, off into Moncton to explore & eat. Worst case scenario - have a walk, can't find a restaurant, have apples for tea. Turns out finding a restaurant wasn't the issue, finding a parking spec was. There was plenty but paying with no data - challenging. Eventually found some WiFi, paid 39p for parking & had a walk along the river. Found a superb BBQ pub & was persuaded away from ordering too much - one big plate of meats & sides did the job. Needed a big walk after.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Exploring the ocean floor.

    September 27 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Endured breakfast within earshot of some of the noisiest most cackly people in the world. On the bright side had some nice muffins. Ying and Yang. Since we were just round the corner from it, it seemed rude not to pay a quick visit to Magnetic Hill. Fortunately, being out of season, there was no-one to take an entry fee. Drove to the instructions & followed them for both directions. Underwhelming would be the best description - some possible hints of rolling uphill but certainly not worthy of being one of Canada's most recognised attractions. Definitely glad we didn't pay. Onwards to a genuine attraction - a natural wonder of the world. Hopewell Rocks isn't a household name but is probably the most photographed part of the Bay of Fundy. The ideal is to go there at low tide & high tide to see the unique tidal range. We were hitting low tide & the tentative plan was to do high tide on the way back. With it being low tide, there was access to the beach area around the rocks - what they called rather dramatically the ocean floor. It was quite a striking beach walk with all manner of names for the rocks - elephant being the obvious candidate. Headed back up to the cliffs for an above view. Agonised over having lunch here - the rangers were doing a BBQ with a view but the small matter of 160 miles to go before darkness got in the way.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Settling in.

    September 27 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Unfortunately of the 160 miles to go the first 60 or so we're on local roads which proved slow & challenging, if only sticking to the speed limit. Found it hard to believe there'd be any police around - it was as close to the middle of nowhere as you could get. Thankfully the one we saw had already pulled someone else over for speeding. In the clear for a while. As soon as eventually made it to the highway the prospect of services & being able to get food was back on the agenda though the sales pitch for the services wasn't pushing the limits - "the washrooms are clean" despite the meagre claim we stopped for petrol & snacks. Decided to stop in St John for a bit of a shop but finding a supermarket was a little more challenging - bit of round in circles action & eventually punted for a Google recommendation. Huge bags of cherries so all is good. Bit concerned about the directions to the off the beaten track cabin - would the track be too obscure. While the cabin proved to be beautifully away from it all the instructions were spot on. Enjoyed the isolation & peace.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Dark sky safari.

    September 28 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Slow start both in terms of getting going & in terms of the weather - the greyness didn't encourage getting out & about though the forecast suggested things would pick up. While Liz was sorting out her hair there was a bike to be made ready. Once done it would be rude not to have a go. Admittedly not the best but it did the job - quick cycle to the other side of the bay - some hefty hills & gravelly tracks. Back for a lunchtime snack and an explore of the tracks around the cottage. Disappointed at the lack of wildlife - the guest book was full of smug sightings & would've hoped for something in either or both of the outings. Had to go into St Andrews for some shopping, to investigate laundry options but also to have a look around. Very quiet & quaint it was too though in August it might have been a very different picture. The High St was pure Americana with lots of touristy shops & restaurants. The quay was very focussed on whale watching which is a possibility. Stocked up & checked out the Blockhouse one of only 2 such fortifications left in Canada. Liz spotted some deer snaffling fallen apples & followed them into the nearby park. They tolerated us until a noisy kid showed up. Got where they were coming from. Stopped off at the town beach - possible swim tomorrow maybe. Back to cook tea & as we were 3 deer roamed onto the back lawn for a graze. Evening seems to be the time. After tea, spent some time enjoying the clear and dark skies. Helps with glasses on though.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Fraud.

    September 29 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Managed to catch the sunrise - autumn offering a later version - 7.30 is more doable. Today was likely to be the last really warm day of the week which meant probably the last opportunity to go for a swim. So it was either back into St Andrews & Katie's Cove or further afield to a recommended provincial park - New River Beach - supposedly the best beach round these parts. Also had some good coastal walks and a nice looking cafe on the beach. Managed to irritate an HGV driver on the way so all was looking good. The park closed signs were not comforting especially when 1 of the gates to the car park was closed. The cafe didn't scream open either. The trailhead car park was a little busier & at least had both gates open. Down on the beach & it was a little breezier than expected & the sea temp wasn't encouraging. Walked the beach & soaked up the rays on some deck chairs in a sheltered spot. Opted to head back to the wooded headland walk - bit more sheltered. Warnings of wildlife prompted a range of reactions but mostly skepticism. Intrigued by a poem promising hidden monsters along the way but not a single monster was found - fraud or they had all been taken. No matter - nice coastal views & indeed a bit more sheltered. Back to the cabin for a snack.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Like goats in Llandudno.

    September 29 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Had a little explore of the beaches and trails around the cabin. Snacking for lunch can only stave of the inevitable for so long. Back into St Andrews and couldn't resist the self proclaimed best fish n chips eva. Well Liz couldn't - I went lazy lobster - hard work done & slapped in a roll. Had to have a walk to aid digestion - down the pier to investigate whale watching options or more to the point the sizes of the boats. Liz unconvinced. Onwards to the lighthouse and past some ludicrously expensive looking houses. Lighthouse was nice enough - on the way back to the car, a couple of deer wandered across the road & on driving out a couple more were not for moving out of the road. Come a certain time of evening it seemed that the deer started to roam pretty much anywhere, kind of like the goats in Llandudno. And as for back at the cabin. A few appeared just after we got back & by sunset there was practically a herd grazing in the front lawn. Occasionally they would get spooked and a couple would bolt and then drift back. Nice to watch - maybe a moose or 2 next.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Hilly stuff.

    September 30 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    A cycle morning born of pragmatism - Liz needed to chill so to avert boredom cycling it was. The plan was to head towards St Andrews and see what happens. Straight onto the main road and a turn off led to Chamcook Lake. Intrigued but disappointed in the hill up to it. Nice enough place but essentially the lakefront had been bought up. Onwards through the hills. Couldn't resist having a look at the causeway to Minister's Island - not really a made causeway just compacted stones & sand. It showed in places where cars struggled with the lack of traction. Not so easy on a bike either. Back & this is where time ran away - hit a nice easy cycle path to town. Drifted along taking in bits and pieces - Katie's Cove, Pagan Point Nature Reserve, the Irish Memorial - all easily got to, all steadily further from home. What caused a further shock - the Satnav was an hour behind. A leisurely 10.30 suddenly became 11.30. Battled back to base over the hills in time for a lunch of sorts.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    A Canadian horticultural treasure.

    September 30 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The last day before a cold(ish) snap necessitated that we make the most of the day. Had to go into St Andrews for a few bits and pieces so it was either Ministers Island or a famed Canadian horticultural treasure. The tides were against us for the island who can resist a horticultural treasure. If nothing else it would be a nice walk in an attractive setting and we'd probably be the youngest people there. Judging by the RV park, when I cycled past, half of geriatric Canada was here. So it proved though the youngster thing was a close call - a family walked out as we went in - and so the baton was passed. Liked the maze and orchard and the sculpture garden had the usual mix of striking and bizarre. Just a really nice walk and a bit of shelter from the increasingly cool breeze. Figured out that the therapy garden was for people to use growing vegetables as therapy - some tasty looking chillis. Had to pass on the cake as the cafe was closed and initial plans for an ice cream looked shaky as it was getting more cloudy. Shops and back - noticed the local marijuana shop tucked away - not quite as brazen as the drive through dope dealer in Toronto. Back to the cabin for another explore of the local tracks.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Race against the tide.

    October 1 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The tide dictated today's schedule. It subsided far enough to reveal the Minister's Island causeway at around 10.45 so no great hurry. Leisurely breakfast & sorting out. The causeway itself was easier in a car - wider tyres, 4 wheels & a little more power all help. First stop was the wrong stop it turns out. The vast majority of the buildings on the island were the creation of William Van Horne - the brains behind the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Needless to say a wealthy man and what we'd opted to stop at was his barn not his 50 room palatial summer hut. The guide talked it up and despite him being apparently 'a bit of a prick to work for' evidently had a passion for farming & offered a decent deal for his staff. Onwards to his house - again a guide gave us an insight, also had a video then mooched around. Interesting to see the contrast between the staff & the aristocracy. Once all had been seen, including the striking bath house, the aim was to walk the perimeter route along the coast of the island to try and see where our cabin was. We finished the tour at around 1 and had to be off the island by 4. Plenty of time. Ambled along, having a cake stop at a sunny, sheltered spot (for it was pretty windy today) with a belting view. It was at around 2ish that Liz was getting a little concerned that going to the furthest point might not tally up with getting off the island. We pushed on but in hindsight it ended up being a more stressful walk than it could've been - bit of a mad dash but in the end had an hour to spare. And I'm sure there's a bit of leeway. Back to St Andrews for an ice cream - clouded over again. Postponed. Popped back later to fill the car up & stopped off to see how covered the causeway was - very and the rain just made it a little more dramatic.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Doing a Dom

    October 2 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Another island day hopefully not another stressful race to get off it in time. Early start & woke to find the car frozen. Had to be at the harbour to check in 45 mins prior to the 9.30 departure, but we were 40 mins away from the harbour so it had barely got light before we cracked on. The ferry was suggested to be a good way of seeing whales and other ocean wildlife. Settled in a window seat until midway through & then decamped to the outside decks - chilly temps with a cold breeze. Multiple layers and hood up a la Dominik Szoboszlai. Only wildlife we saw was a little bird hitching a ride to the island. Had found an itinerary for a day on Grand Manan Island & opted to give the recommendations a go. First was to head up the Swallow Tail Lighthouse but specifically straight after disembarking so you can see the ferry depart with the lighthouse in the foreground. All exactly as promised & with virtually no-one about. In fairness the ferry wasn't particularly busy so hopeful of a quiet day. Back down to Pettes Cove for a walk along the beach & up along the cliffs and we got some great views of seals both from the beach & the cliff. Glasses & binoculars really do help.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    A little part of Liverpool

    October 2 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Post walk hunger & settled for a poncy looking recommendation - there wasn't too much open. This was the only place in the whole day that wasn't quiet - it wasn't busy it was just a gobby yank nearby that had no volume control. Sarnies & smoothies balanced the irritation. And as for the toffee cake mmmm. The cholesterol drugs were having to do some hard work. Pushed to the most southerly point - supposedly good fur seeing whales - nothing doing. Some very overgrown paths and yet more seals. Stopped at Deep Cove Beach - gorgeous sandy beach and not a soul on it. Would've been good for a swim but sea & wind too chilly. Next stop Seal Cove. Took in the fish smoking huts and then more randomly North Americas biggest collection of Beatles memorabilia - Bill's Beatles collection. Happily chatted away to him about Liverpool, the Beatles and some of his more quirky bits & pieces. Very entertaining & he liked the fact in some small way he was going to Liverpool - in photographic form. Quite a character. Back to the ferry port and having 40 mins to wait, went for a walk to the beach. Figured when we saw the ferry we'd have time to get back. Probably walked a little too far. Saw the ferry & it was belting along. Ended up dashing again. All good but still no whales - more seals and a couple of dolphins.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    Chilling with Ryan.

    October 3 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Spent the day trying to absorb the magical place that we've been enjoying for the last week. Be that sitting at the water's edge watching Ryan the seal snorting away, or lazing in the sun listening to the peace. Taking walks along the beach or paying one last visit to St Andrews and finally getting an ice cream. Took the final opportunity to get fish & chips at the famous Clam Digger take out & had our final meal with the best view possible - at the cabin.Read more

  • John BickerstaffEast Canada & the Fundy coastJohn Bickerstaff

    The final act.

    October 4 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    As if the small matter of a 300 mile drive to Halifax wasn't enough, online check-in was playing up and was suggesting no checked bags were allowed and still there was returning the car to contend with. All good fun. Managed to finish pretty much everything in the fridge for breakie. Quick scoot down to the beach. Ryan made a quick appearance to say goodbye as did the herd as we were driving away. Sad to go. Just a couple of stops along the way and made it to Halifax for around 2ish - rather than spend too much time in the airport decided to head down to Pleasance Point in the city - a nice coastal park that we enjoyed on our previous visit to Halifax. It proved to be a fittingly peaceful final act of the holiday. Hard to believe we were in a city. They do urban parks really well in Canada. Only slight downside was finding out that Liverpool were losing. Ambled back to the car & braced for the challenging stuff, except it wasn't. Car had a cursory check - no charges. On to check-in, all ready for an argument. Really nice lady sorted us emergency exit seats & the bags were sorted through to Manchester no charges. No queues at security & everyone was very friendly. Settled down to wait for boarding.Read more

    Trip end
    October 5, 2025
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