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Finland & Baltic Russia

July - August 2019
July 2019 Read more
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  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 6

    Breakie with a blanket

    July 30, 2019 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Another town, another run route - along one of the further town beaches. Bit windy & bit chilly - not many out. Back in plenty of time for breakie - would it be sufficient to get through to a late lunch / early tea. Slight cause for concern was a couple of girls eating outside in the chill - just hardy Fins. On closer inspection there were plainly too few tables for the full hotel - we were going to have to be hardy too - at least there were blankets. That said I was still a bit warm from the run. What irked was a couple of people who had downstairs sun rooms next to the lounge chose to eat in the lounge. Not fair. Inspite of the chill, filled up with multiple dollops of porridge, pancakes, Finnish meatballs & fruit. The onset of light rain suggested a beach day wasn't in the offing so a walking day it was to be. Nearby headland walk - apparently named the lovers path, which rather incongruously had numerous remains of Finland's part in the war. Eventually the sun appeared & helped the views of Hanko. The bunkers & gun emplacements were interesting, though still need to determine where Finland figures in the cast of WW2. Back to town & stumbled on the toursit info - got some recommendations, 1 of which was to climb the water tower, though it wasn't open for 20 mins. She gave us an architecture tour brochure to tide us over. Where a bizarre seal / worm / loch ness monster sculpture figures on that is open to debate. The watertower / watchtower was only 2 euros - for once sonething in Finland that is cheap. A creaky lift took us up & the views of the town & the Batic Islands were great. Picked out where we were staying & even our car. Popped into the church on the way back - typical Scandinavian minimalism - yet again.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 6

    Entertaining crows

    July 30, 2019 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    One of the other recommendations was a 5 mile hike to the most Southerly point on mainland Finland, but with lunchtime being the only time at the Thai, it seemed a trifle optimistic to get that done. Opted for a nature trail that had been circled on the hotel map. According to Google there didn't appear to be any parking so it was possible it could be a 6 mile drive to nowhere. Thankfully there was & only 1 other car - unlikely to be disturbed by ghetto blasters as the info plaques repeatedly showed illustrating strange goings on. A couple of the does and don'ts google managed to translate (badly) others - no sense. Contrasting walk through woodland (apt since 70% of Finland is wooded) seashore & rocky outcrop island. As we left the hoades approached - 1 family, 1 man & his dog. Headed back via the Thai to check it looked open - check. Back to sort a couple of things & then off for Thai. Except - went in - plenty of food at the buffet, people sat down, went to the cashier to pay / check procedure. "We're closed" err right. Sharp exit. Bizarre - lots of food going to waste - might want to update your sign that says open till 6. Took a drive to the North to ponder next move. Had a look at a fish restaurant - swiftly rejected when fish & chips came in at £23 each. Headed to Lidl to sort a picnic on the beach. Ended up being stalked by a crow - circled us numerous times - couldn't make out how to get the crumbs. Entertaining. Watched a few hardy souls going for an evening swim - not for me - though they did have wetsuits - wimps.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 7

    Heading South

    July 31, 2019 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Made damn sure we were inside for breakie - there on the dot of 8 - first in (not last out though) Having been up early we were blessed with time to do the walk to the most Southerly point in Finland. The catch was the weather was a bit rubbish - rained just before breakie, was windy & to be frank a bit chilly - I know Finland is an Arctic country but it was 30° a couple of days ago. Wrapped up warm(ish) or at least as well as packed clothing allowed. Car park was fairly empty & didn't encounter many people going out. Plenty of signs in English about shipwrecks, sea cale & the German barracks. Thankfully by the time we made it to the Finnish Lands End, things were beginning to brighten up. To compare it to Lands End is daft really - it is far more subdued - a faded plaque & that is it. The fact that it is a nature reserve may have something to do with it. Headed back & things were definitely getting busier - much too much singing for my liking. By the car coats & fleeces had been discarded.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 7

    Mad weather

    July 31, 2019 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Back to the hotel & sat out on the veranda for a while soaking up the rays, reading & scoffing bickies. By now the wind had really calmed down so a final bit of beach time was called for - no beaches or sunshine by the look of it in Russia. Thought I'd give Stand up surfing a go. If I can't manage it when it's a mill pond, there's no hope. Was a bit wobbly initially but got the hang of it - no surf so just paddling ... to an island, to the next beach, to disturb Liz & her reading. Managed to avoid falling in - contemplated diving in to cool off - hard work - but wasn't sure I'd be able to get back on. Board returned & off for tea - the beach shack was open & the sun was out - burger & a beer - what could be better? A fairly steep price. It was nice though. Wandered back via the far beach & the oldies tennis tournament - still whacking it hard.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 8

    Full price??

    August 1, 2019 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Early start for a completely different reason - had to get the car back by 12 (75 miles wasn't too challenging really) Still - got to breakie before anyone else - very stodgy porridge today. Packed last night so had time for a final walk to the town beach & quay. Back to check out & was asked about the dodgy smell in the toilet (not of my making) It had been mentioned & investigated - not rectified so they knocked off 10% While in Hanko I got an email from the Helsinki hotel refunding us 50€ for the heating problems. Finland's still eye wateringly expensive but this has softened blow. Drive back was uneventful, which is good. Filling up was a little more challenging - had to authorise your card at a separate card reader prior to filling up - had to go in & ask for guidance. As for Hertz - getting into the car park was ok, getting out not so much. Ended up taking a most circuitous route. By the time we got back someone else was on duty. All along the plan was to take in Uspenski Russian Orthodox Cathedral. The contrast with everything else we've seen was marked - amazingly ornate, artefacts everywhere and much smaller than expected. That done - loose end for a few hours. Decided to scout out tram links to the port & then head out to Finlandia Hall - Finland's version of the Sydney Opera House. Couldn't find our way in - didn't help that we tried to get in the back. Not much - other than some kitsch chairs that were ridiculously comfy. Curious about another building that seemed to be attracting attention - turned out it was the library. There was music, radio & tv being broadcast. Inside it was a hive of activity - rows of 3d printers, microscopes, computers, performance areas, games to rent, footballs and basketballs - you name it. Shows what can be done if there is the will & funding. They clearly value learning & fund it accordingly - not everything is about profit! Took in a final ice cream at the Esplanedi park & then off to the port.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 8

    How loud?

    August 1, 2019 in Finland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    So much to do - so little time. Stopped at Lidl for tea & breakie stuff - on booking it became apparent that the cost of food was high (probably cheap by Finnish standards) so stocking up was the option. Then on to the station to pick up our bags (lockers) Just missed the tram to the West Quay so a bit of a wait & the crowds waiting grew - would we all fit on? It was a tight squeeze & I almost fell into old ladies lap when the tram lurched around a bend (no hand holds) - tourists pah! Got chatting to a cockney who lived in Helsinki - such weather is abnormal & he maintains the best time of year is winter. Skeptical. Took in the naughty boy statue & on to the check in. Not the worst queue, but not the fastest of procedures. Scooted through fairly painlessly - unlike those going to Tallinn - looked carnage. On boarding we had to have all bags scanned - just 1 machine - that's going to cause chaos (it did) Then had to have a photo with someone dressed up as the captain. Found our pokey room - worryingly situated on the deck below the live entertainment ... till 1am. Not good. While most were boozing we watched as Helsinki slipped into the distance. Onwards to Russia. Had some tea & asked to see if there were any alternative rooms. The only option was opposite ours - no point. By 10 the true noise level was becoming clear - sleep is likely to elude me.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 9

    Back in the USSR - for the first time.

    August 2, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    What a manic day. Sleep only arrived at 1am when the taste free zone that was the retro disco subsided & then the rowdy drunks rolled in afterwards. Other than the noise, the cabin was surprisingly comfortable & it was at 7.30 that we surfaced to discover not ocean views but dockside views of presumably St Petersburg. Much earlier than expected & much sunnier. Back for picnic breakfast & a little hurried repacking to hear a garbled announcement indicating that only VIPs would be disembarking at 9 - the Ps would commence at 9.30 hmmm - how would the transfer view that? In fairness I had told the hotel that passport control would take a while & there was no point the transfer being there at 9. How true that would prove. 9.30 came and went & there was no movement nor announcement. Finally at 9.45 we were off but everyone had to funnel into 1 staircase off the boat - that took a while. Then we had to guess which queue was the non-Russian immigration option - the one that wasn't moving & proceded to not move for ages. It was a minor victory just to get in the building. 10.45 came & we were no closer or so it seemed. Once within sight of the passport posts, we thankfully made a correct choice & were through in 90 mins. Transfer located - relief but by now the clouds were rolling in. Not for him though. He had to contend with St Petersburg traffic on an army day. Cars with flags flying around & google telling him all roads are red. Eventually wound up at the hotel over 3 hours after the boat docked. Not good & to top it off the price quoted had almost doubled because he had to wait so long - I said not to wait! Still it was a far less stressful way to get to the hotel & I would have my revenge... Settled in, thankfully having early access to the room. Wanted to take in a game at St Petersburg's stadium - supposedly the most expensive in the world, so sought advice from the receptionist. She suggested we could go through the process online together. Happy days. Both my cards got spat out. Worrying days. She said the alternative was to have them delivered - no extra cost. She'd phone, check & get back to me. She came up later - not happening. She offered to pay on her card & we could repay her. Way to go the extra mile. Concerned by the card issue so first port of call on exploring was a cashpoint. Google showed up 3 nearby. None seemed to exist on inspection. Even more worrying. Decided to wander a little more & hope one turned up. Thankfully a Dutch bank did & the card worked. Cue much relief. Off to the shop - megre pickings but sorted breakie. Back for a chill before a little more exploration - Hermitage & a recommended eaterie. The Hermitage was impressive & ludicrously busy as were the roads - still (car park like) Food, thankfully, proved a little cheaper & English was indicated & understood. Went back via the Church of the saviour of spilt blood - snappy title. Unfortunately the main spire was shrouded in scaffolding & raindrops were beginning to fall - might be giving the fireworks a miss.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 10

    Damn tour groups

    August 3, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    And so to the serious stuff - exploring St Petersburg and bizarre Russian cereal finished, we headed to the Petropavlosk Fortress - suposedly the only place to begin a St Petersburg odysey (so the guidebook says) Stepped out to discover things were a little fresh - thankful long trousers were chosen. Getting to the fortress involved a short walk, punctuated by exasperated chunnering along the way as we were barged out of the way - some just rude, most tour groups just getting in the way. Once on Hare Island, there were constant reminders of the Island's naming - hares everywhere (not real) & hoardes waiting for photo ops - gratuitous posing & lots of pouting. As we approached the cathedral, noticed a number of groups heading in a different direction & remembered the midday gun fire. Got there just in time for a bit of pomp & then to almost shit ourselves when the gun went off. Off to the museum of space exploration. Some good exhibits - particularly from Alexi Leonov but let down in 2 ways both of which understandable. Very hit & miss with the English translations - obscure stuff got them, soyuz & sputnik stuff didn't. Also it was very big on the minutia of rocket engines, which got a little boring even for me. The Gagarin stuff was very good though. Liz particularly liked sitting down & resting her aching limbs. By now hunger was a thing - no huge Finnish breakfasts. Nothing around the fortress & no snacks in of note. Decided to have a big lunch & if needed get something at the footie. Opted for the highly rated Brisket BBQ just around the corner - a slice of the states in the USSR. Probably didn't have anything this American in the whole time we were there. Very nice brisket & beef cheeks. Headed back stuffed & to prepare for a match Ruski style. Not sure what to expect.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 10

    Footie Ruski style

    August 3, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    While Liz was resting I scouted out the metro. Had a somewhat fraught discussion with the only person on duty with any degree of English - he was most apologetic. Established what we needed to get to the match - he was most envious. He couldn't get his head round why I didn't get the tokens there & then. I on the other couldn't establish whether they would expire. Equally I couldn't remember how to say thank you & that stressed him out. 1 hour later we were buying our tokens & getting squashed into the metro, Tokyo style. There were other Zenit fans so we had someone to follow at the other end - unless they were heading for a punch up. Stadium & metro line all very new courtesy of FIFA. Once out of the train it was a very convoluted route to the stadium. Bit confused about where to go & even more confused when the steward tried to explain. Extreme warnings on the tickets - no flares, poison, knives etc, were matched with extreme security - airport style. Thankfully got through & had to tackle vast flights of stairs - so much so there were benches half way up. Escalators up to the 2nd tier & a great view of the match, the stadium but also the surrounding area - including the tallest building in Europe - Gazprom's head office from the Gazprom Arena. Makes you think - dodgy dealings maybe. The Zenit fans made a pretty good noise - their team not so much. Conceded a comical own goal. They got very excited when their new signing came on - not that he did too much. Got a last minute equaliser just after we left - had to beat the traffic. Stadium looked spot on at night - as per design, just like a UFO. No wonder it's the most expensive stadium in the world.Read more

  • John BickerstaffFinland & Baltic Russia
    Day 11

    Gangster goings on(ish)

    August 4, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Very late finish meant a late start, to the point where we were dashing around just to make the midday gun salute. The idea being to take in the walk along the fortress walls at the time of the firing, thus getting a different view. A little fazed by the lack of traffic outside & saw people running at the end of the road - the St Petersburg Half Marathon. Dodged the runners getting to the bridge & dodged sone more tour parties on the way to the wall. Good spot - still jumped at midday & the cathedral still had massive queues. Walked round to the beach for some nice views of the city. Took a walk along the river to the warship Aurora, which kicked off the revolution in 1917 and it kind of kicked off while we there. A couple of guys with fighting birds were hanging round. Most Russian guys look like bouncers or gangsters - these were no different except they acted that way as well. Got into an argument with some women & promptly chucked her holdall in the river & then promptly ran off [not very gangster that] The family were shaken, bemused & shouted a lot. God knows what the argument was about but best get out of the way. Off to Subway for an easy sarnie. Energy restored - took in St Isaac's Cathedral - massive queue (as there was at the Aurora) found the Bronze Horseman (featured in a book of Liz's) Walked along the river past the Hermitage (epic queue) & ridiculous number of coaches - going to be fun that one. Back in time to watch the mighty reds, handily enough on Russian tv. Decent game - city were lucky. Cooked a Caucasian pasta dish - very spicy. Nice.Read more

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