• On our way to breakfast
      The neat rows of motorbikes. Would rather have the sidewalk back though tbhSelling goldfish by the side of the roadBarber anyone? The guy thought James really needed it to be fairThe artifacts from Ankor WatWaiting for the rain to subside, trying to not to get bit anymore and not itch themThe fireworks we kinda sawMy nails, while we waitedThis dog was in the salon. Must be the fashion as I saw a few more dogs like thisAt the train stationOur trainJames getting into his bunkLaughing at how small this is

      Ho Chi Minh city Day 2 & 3

      31 Mei–1 Jun 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Today, I was in charge of the budget and activities. We started off by walking a little way to an American-style restaurant, which was tasty enough. It was entertaining watching the older boys, high school kids from across the way, wander in and out of school, crossing to our side of the street to sit in groups and eat freshly prepared pot noodles served by one old lady to about 30 kids.

      We then walked slowly through town to get to the Vietnamese Historical Museum, stopping off along the way to get me a SIM card. We passed some pretty interesting things, including a man on the side of a four-lane road selling goldfish in bags and a row of barbers giving trims under nothing more than tarps.

      When we arrived at the museum, we lazily began reading the history, which started with prehistoric man and continued to modern day. While looking at a mummified noblewoman, recently uncovered in the city, a young man who worked there began speaking to us and encouraged us to take photos of the mummy. He then followed us around the exhibit, trying enthusiastically to point out interesting things in broken English. James quickly abandoned me with him, leaving me to make awkward small talk and feign interest in what I was reading and looking at, while hoping he would leave me alone. He was very nice and told me he loves history and is trying to be a kickboxer, but I was just tired and not really invested in the museum, especially as I was also being badly bitten by mosquitoes that gave me 11 bites. It all kicked off when suddenly a huge downpour of rain started flooding the courtyard and streets outside and dripping from the ceiling. I quickly found James and took a moment to observe the probably looted artifacts from Angkor Wat, where we'd just been. We quickly saw the rest of the museum and then waited impatiently for the rain to subside so we could grab a taxi back to our apartment.

      We chilled until that evening, when there was a fireworks display planned for a festival the city was hosting. As I was chatting to my mum on a video call by the window, I heard a bang and saw a huge ball of fire billow up from a raft on the river. A few stray fireworks shot out of the fire, but quickly another boom and more fire and smoke followed. Oops, I don't think that's what they'd planned to happen. This was on another side of the river, so I assumed our display was still going ahead. We headed to the waterfront but quickly realized we weren't in a spot to see them. We moved with lots of other people to another position, but it was then blocked by a tree. Overall, it was probably good, but we saw very little of it.

      The next day we were leaving via an overnight train, but that wasn't until the evening. However, we had to check out of our accommodation by 11, so we packed up and then headed to the handy cafes below the building to chill for the next five hours. As there was little else to do, I decided to get my nails done at the salon where I did my lashes. After much deliberation, I settled on a turquoise blue, as I figured it would look good when I'm tanned at the beach. These would end up lasting six weeks without a single chip or lifting, amazing (and again, so cheap!).

      An hour and a half before our train, we got a Grab to the station and ate a quick McDonald's knockoff, which was quite tasty, and then tried to figure out which platform was ours. We found our cabin, which we were sharing with two mothers and their combined total of four children. James and I had the very top, third bunk, which was more cramped than we'd expected. As we were trying to get into them, one mother laughed at us, as it was probably very silly seeing a tall, fully grown western man trying to squeeze himself into a cramped top bunk. A few hours in, I went to the loo, which was pretty clean compared to the Indian train toilets, and came back to find all the little girls asking me questions and vying for my attention. Questions included: where was I from, what was my favorite food, what was my favorite color, was James my brother, and more. They also said I was pretty, which was sweet. I know it was probably because I was just western, but it still played to my vanity. I eventually extricated myself from their questions and crawled back into my bunk to lots of giggles. We managed to fall asleep eventually and passed a weird night sleeping in our bunks.
      Baca lagi

    • Ho Chi Minh City - Day 1

      30 Mei 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      We woke feeling very independent in our little apartment. The day before, I'd spotted a nice-looking beauty salon in the apartment complex and arranged to get my lashes curled. For anyone interested, I've been using growth serum on my lashes to make them longer and they're now very long, and I've been desperate to curl them so they'd look extra voluminous. The end result was perfect AND it cost me £7! In the UK, this treatment costs £60, so the price alone made it incredibly worth it! And now I look like I'm wearing mascara without having to actually wear it.

      After my morning appointment, we headed to the War Remnants Museum, which was pretty harrowing. Outside, it had a load of US Army vehicles from the Vietnam War, and inside, they showed very graphic images of the effects of the war and of the napalm damage to people and generations after. It was very interesting to see the Vietnam War from the other side's view and although the museum was a little hard to follow, the images of destruction, death, and suffering definitely spoke volumes.

      We then went across the road and enjoyed our first Banh Mi sandwich, which is a small baguette stuffed with noodles and fried vegetables. It was super delicious.

      We then took a humid stroll past an old royal palace called Independence Palace, which is where the final battle was won by North Vietnam when a tank broke through the gates and unified the country. We then went to an excellent coffee shop, Tonkin Specialty Coffee, hidden down a thin alley and up on the second floor. They served an excellent egg coffee, a specialty of the city, with a fantastic vibe too. As we were discovering, the French colonial past definitely left an influence on the food culture of the city. As one tour guide said, "we took the French stuff and made it better." We then walked slowly back to our apartment, walking through the high-end shopping district which seemed so juxtaposed with the communist flag flying right next to a Cartier shop. Through a long square and up to the river, which we followed over a cute bridge and back to ours.

      We then chilled out and went for another swim before going out in the evening to a nearby rooftop bar with an exceptional view for some drinks, which we had to access by going through a rough looking car park.
      Baca lagi

    • Onboard our night bus
      The busy food market at 4 amThe busy morning food marketOn our way to VietnamEnjoying the pool

      Arriving into Hon Chi Minh city

      28–29 Mei 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

      We checked out of our hotel at 11pm and got a tuk-tuk to a travel agent's shop, who then took us in a minivan to the bus stop. We had read some really awful reviews of this bus service, including that the driver played loud music the whole journey, was drunk, and rude, so we were quite apprehensive about the ride. However, after finding our double bunk, below some French tourists, we got into our liners and dozed for the rest of the journey and didn't experience any major negatives. We didn't really sleep, however, and it was hard to get used to rolling around with the twists and turns of the road, but I felt like I got some light sleep.

      We arrived in Phnom Penh at around 5 am for our next bus that left at 6 am. We got dropped off at a very basic terminal with a few locals sitting and waiting, and lots of deliveries being moved on and off the buses. The streets surrounding it were busy with the morning food market, which was incredibly busy for that time of the morning. We sat around until 30 minutes before our bus and decided to ask at the desk which bus it was, as no one and nothing gave us any indication of where we should be. They ushered us into a tuk-tuk that took us to a tiny kiosk with a boy asleep behind the desk. Another man appeared and directed us to, one by one, get on the motorbike with the boy and our bags to head to where the bus was departing from. I went first and was bricking it on that motorbike, feeling like I might slide off the back. We both made it intact though and after a quick passport check, got onto the coach.

      The drive was fine and after a few hours, we got to the Vietnam border. It was a lot bigger and more imposing than the Cambodian border and with our travel operators taking our passports and doing everything for us, we were authorized to enter and remain for 14 days visa-free. There is always a noticeable shift when you cross the land border; the shops and houses change and in this case, we began seeing a lot more classic conical Vietnamese hats. We arrived in Ho Chi Minh and ordered a Grab taxi to our accommodation.

      In the end, it took us 12 hours to get here on 8 different vehicles 😄 not sure I'll ever experience that many transfers again.

      We decided to rent an Airbnb apartment this time, as we felt we wanted a bit more independence to cook and pretend we lived there for a bit. It was a perfect place, a little studio apartment in a big high-rise of flats, with a shared swimming pool and loads of shops and amenities right on the ground floor. We didn't do much else that day except visit the pool and buy some food for breakfast. That evening, we found a tasty pho restaurant down the road and discovered that most Vietnamese don't speak English.
      Baca lagi

    • Siem Reap/Ankor Wat - Final Day

      28 Mei 2024, Kemboja ⋅ ☁️ 36 °C

      On our last day of our ticket and in Siem Reap, we decided to explore the remaining temples on the short circuit by bike. It was an excellent way to see the sites, stay somewhat cool, and cover the large distances between them. The first temple we stopped at housed and taught dancers in the kingdom. It was very large and beautiful, with even more images of dancing deities.

      We then cycled on to the water temple, which is in the middle of a huge lake, and during the monsoon season is flooded and mostly underwater, which the temple was designed to accommodate. It wasn't very big, but with the lilies surrounding it and the pools of water, it was quite a unique temple to see. We then got beckoned into a food stall for lunch and almost got ripped off on the food, until James managed to haggle them down to a slightly more reasonable price.

      On the way to our next temple, we went off-road along a shortcut dirt track, which ended up being so much fun. We saw tucked-away ruins that weren't on the map and, through the forest, saw more cool lizards and birds than on the main path. We slowly rode past a couple of temples on our route but decided to only stop at the temple where Lara Croft was filmed, as our butts were getting sore. We couldn't actually remember what the scene filmed here looked like, so we spent much of the time looking around saying, "Was that where it was filmed?" However, we did come across an area where lots of people were taking photos, so we assumed it was there and got our cursory photo.

      We headed back just in time, as when we stopped cycling, we realized we might have gotten heat exhaustion if we'd been out any longer. After a rest in our rooms and lots of water and salts, we felt better and only left briefly to grab snacks for our travels later that night. At 9 pm, we packed our bags and checked out of the hotel to get to our overnight bus to Vietnam and Ho Chi Minh City. After such an exhausting day, we hoped we'd go straight to sleep on the bus.
      Baca lagi

    • Ankor Wat Sunrise

      27 Mei 2024, Kemboja ⋅ ☁️ 36 °C

      This morning we finally managed to drag ourselves out of bed in time to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. We arrived at the site as soon as it opened at 5:30 am and walked in the dark over the moat and into the site, trying not to trip on the uneven stones. We stood just to the side of the three peaks to avoid the trees ruining the silhouette and waited for what felt like two hours for the sun to appear. Once it finally did, we made our way into the central temple and explored the amazing murals and climbed the steps to the third-highest tier, which gave a fantastic view over the site. As Angkor Wat was still an active temple, there were a couple of people praying and monks wandering about, which added to the otherworldliness of the place.

      By about 9 am, we were pooped and hot, so we headed back to our rooms to get breakfast and nap. After a long rest, we went for lunch at a place around the corner where we'd had good food the previous day and then spent the rest of the day by the pool, planning our next steps. I have to admit, the combo of the heat, humidity, and travel exhaustion meant we were not attempting too much each day anymore as we were struggling to muster the enthusiasm.

      In the evening, we went out for a bit of dessert at this fantastic gelato place and went to bed early after our early start that day.
      Baca lagi

    • Siem Reap/Ankor Wat - Day 2

      26 Mei 2024, Kemboja ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

      We had planned to wake up at 6 am and go to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise come up over the monuments. However, after our alarm went off, we turned it off, rolled over, and slept some more, so we didn't get out until 9:30 am. We took a tuk-tuk, which had a nice fluffy roof, to one of the many temples in the Angkor Wat site and explored the paths and complexes on foot. For those who don't know, the area is HUGE and is basically a city with buildings spread out across many miles. The iconic site is just one of many, located in the center.

      When we arrived at one of the temples, we were initially stopped because I was wearing shorts (supposedly too short, even though they're quite long). However, after saying we had no way of changing my clothes, they let us through begrudgingly. We wandered around the maze of rooms, admiring the details still obvious in the stones and the steepness of the steps.

      We wandered around another temple that allowed us to climb to the top. A side note: it was INCREDIBLY hot and humid, so much so that very quickly our shirts were soaked through. When we got to the top of the structure, we noticed the sun had a rainbow encircling it, which we found out later was a rare sun halo, caused by the extreme amount of moisture in the air.

      After 1.5 hours of looking around, we stopped off to have a cold drink by the side of the road and sat with the food and drink stall ladies while we cooled off. We then did a bit more sightseeing, exploring a 'guest house' and 'guard houses' before letting the heat win and deciding to head back to our AC room. In the guard house, we were joined by a local family whose children stared and stared at us. One girl seemed to take a liking to James, kept performing for us, and saying "hello" to get our attention, and tried to follow us when we left.

      We ordered a tuk-tuk with the Grab app and were picked up by a 12-14 year-old boy. We checked our driver's profile and concluded that it was probably his dad's profile and he couldn't be bothered, so sent his son out instead. It was very weird to have someone so young drive us on such chaotic roads. However, he drove very cautiously and smoothly, better than some adult drivers we've had, and overall did an excellent job.

      We spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool and in the evening went out to a grill restaurant, where you grill your own food. We ordered slices of beef, chicken, shrimp, and veggies and cooked up a tasty dinner. After not having cooked for ourselves since we left London, it was nice to be cooking again but still not having to do the washing up.
      Baca lagi

    • Siem Reap

      24–26 Mei 2024, Kemboja ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

      We headed back to the bus station we'd arrived at early in the morning to catch our bus to Siem Reap, the home of the famous Angkor Wat temples. The journey was pretty smooth, and the rest stops were a lot better than the ones on our first journey.

      Our hotel was pretty good, with lots of foliage and ponds with loud croaking frogs in them, and, unfortunately, mosquitos. The hotel also had a pool, so as soon as we'd settled in, we went straight into the water. It also had a swim-up bar, which we made good use of. While at the bar, an American lady, who was on her third drink during happy hour, was speaking to anyone who was near her. She was very lovely, and we found out she had climbed Manaslu as well, but like 15 years ago, when there were no roads or tea houses—she camped most of the trek. She recommended a bar/restaurant down our road that sold 15-cent beer, so we headed there and enjoyed some decent food and the cheap beer. We then wandered around the town and checked out the very busy area with lots of loud bars, restaurants, and shops. Before heading to bed, we had a quick night swim in the pool; it was so pretty we couldn't resist.

      The next day, we woke up slowly and ate our breakfast, with the mosquitos biting me to pieces. They definitely really like me, and I vowed to wear DEET to breakfast from now on. We then went off to the very modern, fancy ticket office to get our three-day tickets for Angkor Wat and then went to the Angkor Wat Museum in town to learn about the site and its history before seeing it the next day.

      The museum was well worth it and gave us a great introduction to the site and its history. It was Buddhist for most of its rulers but also Hindu for one of them, so a lot of it is a medley of the two. This is also where they house a lot of the statues and monuments to keep them safe and away from looters (there had been a lot of looting of the site over its old and modern history). After wandering around, listening to the audio guide, and trying to understand the nuances of the Buddhist religion, we got hungry, so we finished up and went to get some food and spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool. That evening, we booked tickets to the Phare Cambodian Circus, which has a performance every single night and was truly excellent. It wasn't as big-budget and extravagant as Cirque du Soleil, but what they didn't have in stagecraft, they made up for in acrobatic skills and slapstick entertainment. I was on the edge of my seat for most of the show and didn't even notice the time passing. An excellent show, well worth a visit for anyone in Siem Reap.
      Baca lagi

    • Our Cambodian meal
      Shaved ice dessert with kidney beans at the bottomSome of the faces of the people who suffered at this prisonBarbed wire over the holding cells. The site used to be a secondary schoolThe cells they built in the old classroomsThe city by nightEnjoying our first brewThe many steps to the topArrived very hot and sweatyWas worth the view aloneTreading carefully, as your not allowed to wear shoes in/around the templeThe more ancient templeWatched a family group of monkeys on our way downThe mother and baby sessionThe main building in the monetaryAmazing statue of a goddessAnother version of the reclining BuddaResting by the pool after a hot day

      Penm Phen - part 2

      22–24 Mei 2024, Kemboja ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

      Still feeling a little lethargic, we started the day slowly by going to a very high-end coffee shop to catch up on blogging and research our next moves. While wandering to our lunch spot, we were cajoled by a tuk-tuk driver who said he'd take us to Oudong, where we wanted to go tomorrow. So, we agreed on $50 with him and exchanged details. For lunch, we went to a fantastic café/restaurant that serves traditional Khmer food with a modern twist. It was amazing. We got what the waitress recommended and felt like we got a great flavor profile of the cuisine. We had Amok, a curried fish dish, and a soup (all Cambodian meals should be accompanied by soup), which had small fish and fish eggs in it and was definitely an acquired taste. The beef slices on the grill were our favorite. For dessert, we got some shaved ice with floral flavors and, weirdly, some actual kidney/black beans at the bottom. It was an interesting addition but not terrible.

      We then headed to S21, the former security prison where the Khmer Rouge imprisoned and tortured people. It was also pretty harrowing and quite graphic, with images of the dead bodies found in the very room you were standing in when it was liberated. For me, the most harrowing thing was seeing the tiny spaces people were kept in and the row upon row of faces of prisoners who were tortured in the prison, especially the children. As we were leaving, it rained heavily, and we got soaking wet.

      That evening, we went out and did a cocktail/beer crawl through some locally produced breweries and on to Bassac Street where the real clubs and bars are. As it was a weekday, it was quite quiet, but we made our own fun and had a great time.

      We woke up early, regretting our agreed 8 AM pick-up time with our tuk-tuk driver. Oudong is a town about an hour outside Phnom Penh and used to be the old capital of the country. Our driver first took us to a shop where they made silver jewelry, which was interesting to see. The mother and owner of the business passed us to her son, who was in his late teens and spoke such impeccable English, he could have been schooled in Oxford. Although they had some nice stuff, we didn't find anything we liked, and after asking a few questions about their process, we said goodbye and went on to the sites.

      Our first stop was Phreah Reach Throap Mountain, which was a long hot walk up lots of steps to get to the top. There were few to no tourists, so we got a lot of stares and hellos from local children. The temple at the top was beautifully and intricately decorated and overlooked a fantastic view of the surrounding landscape. We wandered about trying to get cool and also looked at the old temples just next to it before heading back down. We then went to the Cambodia Buddhist Vipassana Center, which from what we understood was a monastery where monks and nuns were taught. It was stunning and completely deserted.

      After wandering around, our tuk-tuk driver had arranged for us to eat at a local lady’s stall. However, when we got there, she wanted to charge us $20 for an unspecified chicken meal. Given this extortionate price and the basic kitchen facilities, we declined. She then offered us half a chicken for $10 and showed us the pieces which were chicken feet, a head, and some wings, which didn't do much to convince us. We politely declined and headed back into town and to our hotel. Our driver seemed disappointed as he'd offered to take home any leftovers. After the heat and exhaustion of the day, we relaxed by the pool and didn’t venture out until evening when we sat in the main square and watched a lot of people jogging and children playing. We enjoyed our new favorite drink, a watermelon shake, and then got a second round of coconut water before heading to bed for our early start tomorrow.
      Baca lagi

    • Penm Phen - part 1

      20–22 Mei 2024, Kemboja ⋅ ☁️ 37 °C

      We've noticed a habit when we visit cities: at the time, we feel like we're not doing much, but then when we look back, we realize how much we actually did see and do.

      On our first day, we decided to head just outside town to the Killing Fields, an important historical landmark. But before we got there, our tuk-tuk driver went down a blocked, unfinished road, which ended in him trying to drive through deep sand. James and I then had to get out and push the tuk-tuk while he maneuvered from the driver's seat. After 5-10 minutes of us pushing in the hot sun, we finally got it out and turned the vehicle around to go the longer paved route.

      For those who aren't aware, from 1975 to 1979, the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, ruled Cambodia and implemented radical policies aimed at transforming the country into a communist agrarian utopia. This regime resulted in the deaths of an estimated 1.7 to 2 million people due to forced labor, starvation, disease, and mass executions. The Killing Fields were one of many sites across the country where people were executed and buried in mass graves. We wandered around the area with the audio guide, getting an in-depth understanding of the horror that hundreds of thousands of people experienced here and seeing the scars it left on the land. Even though they've excavated the graves, there are still lots of bones and bits of clothing scattered around, pointing to the sheer volume of people buried here. It was intense and very moving but incredibly important to hear. We left feeling emotionally spent and returned to our hotel to decompress and enjoy the pool. In the evening, we went for drinks on a fancy hotel rooftop, which had a lovely view over the palace opposite it, and then went for some authentic Italian pizza.

      On our second day, we ended up doing very little. We woke up feeling very lazy and decided to embrace it and take a day off. We lazed by the pool, wandered the streets getting coffee and iced tea, and wandered to a shopping mall, in search of nothing in particular. We played air hockey in the arcade and then headed back for more chilling. We went out to the city's night market, which had every fake designer clothing you could imagine, and were wowed into taking a ferry ride along the river, which was beautifully lit up. We then wandered along the banks, taking in the lights and bustle of the city, and headed back to our accommodation.
      Baca lagi

    • On to Phnom Penh

      19 Mei 2024, Kemboja ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

      From what we'd seen of Koh Kong yesterday, we didn't feel like we needed to see much more. So, we headed out to a place around the corner for breakfast. We weren't 100% sure what we were ordering, as it was just from blurry pictures. My French toast was alright, but James ended up getting toast with an egg yolk, corn and cheese on it. Really strange. We ended up staying there for hours, chatting about what we would serve and how we'd operate a café back home—a business idea for the future.

      We then headed back to our room to chill and pack. We were kicked out of our rooms at 12 and then sat in their café updating this blog until 1:30 PM. Our coach was departing at 2:00 PM just around the corner. It arrived late anyway, and we didn't leave until 2:30 PM, but we got to sit in an air-conditioned room, so I had no complaints.

      The drive was like being back in Nepal. All the roads for the next four hours were under construction, with only one side partly complete, meaning cars would constantly switch sides depending on the road quality. There were fewer potholes, but other than that, I spent most of the drive watching out the front, feeling every hazard that came our way.

      We stopped off twice, both at really bootleg places with barely the basic facilities. The second time, I tried to get some food. Out of some random pots, an old lady gave me some rice and a bowl of soup. The soup was all boiled meat, something I can't stand, so I just ate the rice. The owners must have been paying the driver really well because we constantly passed much nicer stops along the way.

      For the final 1.5 hours, there was a perfectly complete highway with all the modern conveniences, so it's not like they can't build the roads.

      Arriving in Phnom Penh, I was struck by how modern it was. The skyline was full of lit-up buildings and fancy food shops. But then, right next door, was a very old, dilapidated building selling food on the side with multiple generations spilling out onto the street. Some of the side roads didn't seem to have street lights. It seems like an interesting mix of old and new.

      Our hotel is lovely—a little place called Pride Resort, with a decent pool that we'll use to cool off. We got a top-floor room with a nice clear view of the sky. Getting in late, we went straight to bed, ready to hit the city the next day.
      Baca lagi

    Dapatkan profil pengembaraan anda yang tersendiri

    Percuma

    QR code

    FindPenguins untuk iOSFindPenguins untuk Android