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South West Coastal Path

augusti - september 2023
  • Mick Byrne
The SWCP is the longest national trail. From Minehead to Poole, it takes in the best parts of four unique counties, offering 630 miles of uninterrupted paths. This is part one of my journey from Minehead to Newquay. Läs mer
  • Mick Byrne

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  • England England
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Backpacking, Vandring, Enbart resor
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  • 13dagar
  • 224foton
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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Morwenstow to Bude

    7 september 2023, England ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    7.5 miles 26C

    The overnight stop at the Bush Inn was fantastic. Caught up with three other coast walkers who also pitched up at the pub. I had a second meal and a few pints before we all settled in for the night.
    We were all up at 0615 and I was on the path for 7am.
    It had rained overnight but all my kit was dry.
    For the next two hours, I crossed some BIG headlands. They were truly stunning. I was happily motoring on with Van Morrison on my iPod. I could see two of the guys from last night just starting their descents into the coves as I was ascending on the other side. Yesterday and todays ascents were 1,271m.
    The day was overcast and we had one brief cooling shower. Although, it was humid, you certainly could feel the heat building up.
    I passed a huge radar/listening station that dominated the landscape.
    By 1030, the two guys had caught up with me. Our energy levels were depleted but we were over the worse. We came upon a cafe and quickly demolished our full English breakfasts.
    The headlands reduced in their severity which meant an easy walk into Bude.
    The town is packed. We managed to find a small campsite on the outskirts of town.
    After quick showers, we were all into town to find a laundrette because with this heat and effort, we pose a serious health risk to ourselves and the public.
    The temperature continues to rise but early starts are the answer    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Bude to Crackington Haven

    8 september 2023, England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    10 miles 24C

    134 miles 7897m cumulative Ascent 25,912 fr

    I said goodbye to my fellow walkers this morning. We’ve enjoyed each other’s company the last few days. Although, I’m pretty sure one of them is lying low from the law.
    I decided to walk with a light pack and bus it back to Bude. I set off at 8am. There was a low sea mist all along the coastline but every now and then it cleared. This section was busy with day walkers and tourists on the path. I think that a number seriously underestimated the distance and how tough the path got.
    The path was very pleasant to Widenouth Bay. The beaches were busy with surfers and retired folk walking their dogs.
    I quickly made distance until I hit some BIG ascents and descents.
    The sea mist kept me cool but the humidity was high.
    As I approached my destination for the day, I was a stunning section called the Cleave. It was a thin precipice which was shrouded with sea mist on either side. It was amazing. I stopped for lunch on Castle Point before dropping into Crackington Haven.
    I had just enough time for a quick soda water and lime before catching the bus back to Bude.    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Tintagel - The End Stage one

    9 september 2023, England ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    With suspected food poisoning and a vertigo attack yesterday, I have decided not to walk on. I only had one more full day to do.
    Instead, this morning, I caught the bus from Bude to Tintagel and found a campsite.
    After a long rest, I had a short walk around Tintagel and to my great delight met up with my two walking companions as they made their way wearily into town.
    It made a wonderful finale to an amazing walk.
    The path is simply stunning but tough. Distances take a very long time because of the ascents and descents. The toil is worth it as the coastal scenery is breath taking.
    I will be back to continue where I left off….
    Thank you all for following and your supportive messages.Tintagel    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    South West Coastal Path (Part 2)

    13 juni, England ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    South West Coatal Path (Part 2)
    Day One Padstow to Portcothan
    15 miles
    After spending all day yesterday travelling to Padstow, I set off this morning on the Salt Path with a heavy pack. Padstow was just waking up. The ascent and descent wasn’t too bad. Overall, it was 640m.
    What did surprise me was the amount of mud on the trail, it was very slippery.
    The signage on the path is quite poor even just keeping the Ocean to your right caught me out a few times. I ended up on blocked paths or dead ends.
    I met another walker today and we ended up walking to our campsite for the evening just outside Portcothan.
    The morning was dry but as we passed Travose Head, the rain settled in for the day and I got soaked. I passed some stunning beach and watched a few hardy souls surfing.
    I finally arrived at the campsite when another deluge struck. I managed to get my tent up and have now settled down for the night.
    Tomorrow should be around 11 miles to Newquay. I just hope that the weather gets better as my kit is soaked.
    Overall, I have 12 days of walking. I hope to get to Falmouth. If I don’t , c’est la vie. Watch this space….    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Day 2 - Portcothan to Newquay

    14 juni, England ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Portcothan to Newquay
    11 miles (18kms)
    Ascent 670m (2200 ft)
    Last night’s campsite was heaven sent. Just as I arrived the weather really took a turn for the worse. I quickly put the tent up and threw everything into it. A quick shower and some noddles, I lay in my sleeping bag listening to the belting rain.
    A few times during the night, the clap of thunder woke me up. Thankfully, my tent stood up to the winds.
    I set off at 8am this morning in a light drizzle. Thankfully, it didn’t last long before the sun came out.
    This section is described as easy. I would disagree. There were a few steep climbs that were made difficult with a heavy and wet rucksack.
    I walked along the cliff tops to Bedruthan Steps. These were formed by huge landslips. The area was busy with day walker and runners. It was funny watching them gingerly trying not to get their boots/trainers on the muddy paths.
    I stopped for second breakfast at Mawgan Perth. It is a beautiful small beach resort. I know that the Cornish folk were once pirates but £17 for a small breakfast and a cup of tea is ridiculous. it was lovely and fortified me to carry on up another big cliff to Newquay.
    As I arrived in Newquay, I came upon a birthday party on the beach. Seeing a large lady dressed up as a mermaid took me a little by surprise. No photographs were taken. 😬
    I arrived at my campsite at 1pm and managed to get my clothes and I washed.
    The weather has turned very pleasant and all my kit has been dried on my makeshift line.    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Day 3 - Newquay to St Agnes

    15 juni, England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 3 - Newquay to St. Agnes 16miles
    Ascent 600m

    I set off at 0645 this morning and had to negotiate my way out of Newquay. It was complicated because of the high tide. This added a few miles onto my journey today.
    I managed to cross the Gannel estuary via a footbridge on the outskirts of town. The path then followed the estuary to the sea unfortunately part of the way was blocked by the tide.
    I eventually made my way to Crantock Bridge and up onto the first headland of the day.
    The views were stunning. There were lots of day walkers and runners on the trail.

    After 6 miles, I reached the sandunes north of Holywell. The tide was going out so I managed to walk along the beach. The awkward bit was climbing the huge sand sun at the end of the beach to get to my first stop of the morning for coffee and a cream scone.
    I carried onto Penhale Point and pass an old military base before arriving at Perran Sands. The beach is over 3 miles long. I walked the entire length of it which saved my time and energy not having to walk through the dunes.
    I arrived in a very busy Perranporth. It was only 11.30am so I had a quick break and back out on the trail.
    This section to St. Agnes was fantastic. The trail looked like a lunar landscape. This is the effects of tin mining in the area. There were lots of warnings not to leave the trail. There were mine workings and mine shafts all round.
    I finally arrived at the Blue Hills Touring Park and found another walker there. The site had only one backpackers pitch and the warden tried to charge me £25 for a normal pitch. I negotiated him down to £20 which still feels ridiculous for a backpackers tent.
    Tomorrow’s walk will be beyond Portreath and described as spectacular scenery of the Tin Coast. It will be a tough day!    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Day 4 - St. Agnes to Gwithian

    16 juni, England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    St. Agnes to Gwithian
    18 miles 3,000ft Ascent

    I set off at 06.30am from the campsite just north of St.Agnes. and dropped into Trevunance Cove to start a steep hill climb onto the cliffs. The trail was fairly easy after that to Porthtowan. En route, I came across the amazing cliff top tin mines. The mines extend out under the sea. The buildings were amazing. I had the place all to myself.
    I carried on to Porthtowan where I waited 20 mins for a lovely coffee shop to open. Unfortunately, this means dropping down to sea level and then back up steep inclines to get back onto the cliffs to Portreath.
    The trail was comfortable on this section as I walked past a disused airfield on Nancekuke Common.
    As I descended into Portreath, I felt really tired but thankfully found a little bakery with seats in the shade.
    I decided that I would only walked a few more miles and stop at a campsite just beyond Portreath.
    The next 3 miles were brutal. I had to descent and ascent really steep sections. On the very last ascent, I met a couple day walking in the opposite direction who tried and failed to raise my spirits by saying look at the amazing scenery.
    I ungraciously replied that I was past that as I struggled with my heavy pack.
    A mile later and at the point of bailing out to a nearby campsite, I started to get my energy levels back and decided to carry on. AC/DC and Van Morrison helped me along.
    Near a place called ‘Deadman’s Cove’ (I’m not kidding), I met a trail walker going the opposite direction. He was walking the trail in aid of Prostate Cancer. He and I spent an hour just chatting. He was a retired Met Officer.
    I carried on my slog to Godrevy Point lighthouse and turned south towards Hayle and St.Ives Bay.
    I arrived at a fantastic campsite in Gwithian. The staff were very attentive and have charged me £10. The site is packed but I am tucked away in a backpackers section away from everyone.
    The weather has been stunning today. Admin completed, No blisters to speak of..
    St Ives tomorrow!    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Day 5 - Gwithian to St. Ives

    17 juni, England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Day 5 - Gwithian to St. Ives
    10 miles
    Another stunning day on the South West Coastal Path.
    I left the campsite at 7.30am this morning and walked three miles on the nearly empty stunning beach to Hayle..
    I arrived in Hayle around 08.30am. To be fair, Hayle seemed a little down on its luck. I did manage to find an Asda and got myself a huge coffee and a bacon butty.
    I eventually arrived in St.Ives around 11.30am and found a badly needed laundrette. All my kit washed, I walked down to the harbour. St. Ives is stunning but VERY busy with tourists.
    I wound my way up a steep road to my campsite in Ayr Holiday Park. It is a beautiful location with amazing vistas of St. Ives, the bay and a lot of the trail I’ve walked so far.
    I’m currently sitting sipping a cold pint of Guinness zero (I know! 😬) enjoying the view.
    Tomorrow will be a VERY tough day to Pendeen. The trail is described as severe and there are no food or drink options.    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Day 6 - St.Ives to Pendeen Watch

    18 juni, England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Distance 14 miles
    Ascent 1100m (3610ft)

    This section is described as SEVERE in all the guidebook and they do not exaggerate!
    I set off at 06.30am to try and beat some of the hot weather. It’s fair to say I failed because I got cooked.
    The first few miles were fine as the trail hugged the cliffs. I had to contend with huge boulders and rocks from landslips on the trail. With a heavy pack, it was exhausting. I met an amazing Australian coupe who were walking the trail with big packs. They were in their 80s and had started in Minehead.
    After 3.5 hours, I was halfway to my final destination at Pendeen Watch. I was exhausted but found a house on a cliff top for a rest.,Amazingly, the owners have installed a tap outside their house. I was able to refill my dwindling water. That’s when things went a little off piste. I lost my way back on the trail so needed up walking a nearby road for 1/4 mile where I found a fantastic pub in a place called Treen. It was heaven set. Thank you Lord!
    I had a pint of soda water and lime and a bite to eat. I got speaking to a lovely girl from Nantwich who is walking the whole of the English coastline to celebrate her 30th birthday. We walked the next 7 miles together. Walking with someone else helps get the distance in. The terrain remained tough but the scenery is simply stunning. The sea is turquoise and the views are incredible. I have to keep reminding myself that this is England.
    After another 3.5 hours, I arrived at a small campsite at Pendeen Watch. The facilities at the site are rustic. The girl was carrying on to Sennan Cove.
    Admin completed, the campsite host has driven me to St. Just so I can get a meal. He’s 80 and a real character. I have enjoyed listening to his life story.
    Tomorrow promises to be even hotter so I think I may start the trail a lot earlier.    Läs mer

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  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneSouth West Coastal Path

    Day 7 - Pendeen Watch to Treen Campsite

    19 juni, England ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Distance 16 miles over moderate terrain
    Ascent 3100 feet.

    An early start this morning, I set off alone on the trail and almost immediately came upon the Mine workings at Pendeen. The tin industry scowered the landscape. It seemed apocalyptic.
    A little further along, I came across the Levant mining complex. The whole area is pocketed with entrances to mines and shafts. Lots of sign instructing walkers not to divert from the paths.
    After 3.5 miles, I came to Cape Cornwall which was stunning particularly with the deep blue Ocean behind it.
    Looking at any map, you think that you will be there in 40-45 mins. Nothing could be further from the truth. The gradients are ridiculous and exhausting. I average a 2 mph pace.
    Things were awry at Cape Cornwall, I lost the coast path signage and went off piste. Trying to get back on the trail meant scrambling over walls and thicket. Not pleasant!
    Around mid-morning, I arrived at a beautiful surfing village called Sennen Cove. I had a wonderful full English breakfast to restore my energy levels.
    It was only 1km further to Land’s End. It was like a theme park. I didn’t stay long and carried on south before turning the corner at Gwennap Head.
    I arrived in Porthcurno, the home of the Monaco Theatre. I could not see any of the stage so carried on to climb yet another hill to my campsite.
    As I arrived, I was apprehensive as there was a sign stating the site was full.
    Thankfully, they always accommodate backpackers.
    Admin completed, it will be an early night for me. Tomorrow, I will be in Penzance.    Läs mer

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