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South West Coastal Path
  • Mick Byrne

South West Coastal Path

The SWCP is the longest national trail. From Minehead to Poole, it takes in the best parts of four unique counties, offering 630 miles of uninterrupted paths. This is part one of my journey from Minehead to Newquay. Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 28, 2023
    Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Minehead to Porlock

    August 28, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    South West Coastal Path 2024

    Minehead to Porlock 10miles

    No Camino this year after a year of intensive Immune Therapy to stop my bladder cancer coming back.

    That’s not going to stop me getting back on a trail.
    Today, I set off from Minehead to Porlock. 10 miles jaunt over the hills and a gentle (ish) introduction back into walking long distances.

    Stunning views and it must be fate as I found Camino shells at the start. A good omen.

    I will be walking for two weeks and will just see how far I get.

    Walked the 10 mile distance in three hours and have stopped at a small campsite. Feel strong and could have carried on but I’m going to take it easy.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Porlock to Lynmouth

    August 29, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Porlock to Lynmouth

    Distance 14 miles

    This trail has been inspired by the book ‘The Salt Path’ by Raynor Wynn. It is an amazing story of a couple who walked the trail after losing everything.

    After a restful night, I set off at 8am on the the trail to Porlock Weir and then onto the hills. There were BIG hills today and then levels sections through beautiful forest hugging the steep cliffs.
    I visited Culbone Church which had stood for over 900 years..
    After that, it was a long slog to Lymouth. A little trail magic brightened up my day before reaching Foreland Point.
    I eventually arrived in Lynmouth in the spills of rain and quickly exited as the place was packed with tourists.
    The climb out if Lynmouth is very steep. As I had seen enough hills, I took the Cable car up to Lyndon thereby avoiding a heart attack for the princely sum of £3.50
    I arrived at my campsite at 3.15pm exhausted. Admin done and a table booked in the pub next door for a Thai dinner.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Lynton to Combe Martin

    August 30, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After a fantastic Thai meal last night, I slept eleven hours through the monsoon overnight.

    I set off at 8.30am and got a few provisions for a picnic lunch on a cliff somewhere on the trail.

    The day started with the trail going through the Valley of Rocks and then onto some more BIG hills.

    You despair when you see the trail drop steeply down to sea level and you can see the path rising very steeply across the other side. 😬 There were several today and don’t my legs know it.

    The trail is beautiful. There are views of South Wales and the route ahead. The heather is in full bloom and my sugar level is supplemented by eating blackberries.

    Another tough day but it was warm and dry. What more can a person want.

    After six hours, I arrived exhausted in Combe Martin. It is a quaint small holiday town. After quenching my thirst with a cider, I made my weary way to a campsite on the outskirts of town. Admin done, it’s time for a bite to eat. No fish and chips for me. I will try a healthy option tonight.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Combe Martin to Ilfracombe

    August 30, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Combe Martin to ilfracombe 5.5 miles

    A very short day today. The forecast is thunderstorms and rain all day. I decided to just play safe and will be staying another night in Combe Martin.
    I did however pack a light bag and set off at 8am on the Ciastal path to Ilfracombe. Rain storms raced in from the Bristol Channel.
    I arrived in Illfracombe at 9.30am and had a walk around the town before having breakfast and catching the 10.30am bus back.
    Today will be spent washing clothes, reading and maybe a few pints.
    The forecast improves for the rest of the week. I will catch the bus early tomorrow back to Illfracombe and carry on the path.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Ilfracombe to Croyde

    September 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Ilfracombe to Croyde 14 miles

    Stats 53 miles 86 Kim’s 12,788 ft ascent

    I caught the 7.10am bus from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe and immediately set off on the trail in the spills of rain. Not a good start but 30 mins later, the sun came out.
    The walking was strenuous with big ascents into narrow coves and back up the other sides. Lundy Island was glowing in the Bristol Channel.
    Just before the stunning Lee Bay, I encountered a herd of cattle blocking the path. A poke with my walking poles and instructing them with ‘move along ladies’ meant I got past without incident.
    Lee Bsy is beautiful so I sat on a wall, admiring the scenery, and had middle breakfast.
    Back to the steep sections until I arrived at Morte Point pretty tired. I now turned south to Woolacombe. After some refreshment ( I’ve taken a shining to Thatchers Cider 😬), I walked the length of the vast beach full of holiday makers.
    I finally arrived in Croyde to a surfers festival taking place.
    The campsite is doing pop up street food and chill out music. I did my best to support the local economy.
    Admin done, I will enjoy the rest of a lovely day. Tomorrow, I will get to Barnstable.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Croyde to Lower Yellard

    September 2, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    21 miles

    Last night, I indulged in a second dinner of smashed burger and chips at the canp site. I set off this morning at 6.30am. My tent was soaked.

    The beach was packed with surfers jostling for waves. High tide was in but I managed to wak along the beach to pick up the Coatal Path. The next couple of hours was spent walking on a busy road from Croyde to Braunton. It was not a pleasant experience. I intended to walk the 3 mile length of Saunton Sands but the tide was lapping against the dunes. This meant a boring walk along Braunton Marsh.
    The temperature was 23C with no wind.
    I was feeling pretty fed up and was considering bailing out at Barnstable. These thoughts persisted all the way along the sea defences around the Taw estuary to Barnstable.
    I bought some lunch and sat watching a demonstration again race hate. I ended up chatting to a police woman managing the event. She told me that I would miss some amazing scenery if I bailed out.
    I did research trains from Barnstable home for today and for the first time ever, I’ve got to thank the rail strikes - no trains. Decision made.
    One pint later, I was back on the trail which also encompasses the Tarka trail and yomping towards Biddeford, listening to AC/DC. Fine music to get the miles in.
    The trail continued to be easy but very boring. I arrived at my amazing campsite very footsore.
    Fate has interceded because this one has a BREWERY…hurrah 🍺.
    Admin done, I will have a light tea and a few beers. I feel that a snore fest is coming on. I am staying another night here so will do a light pack day tomorrow to Westward Ho!    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Lower Yelland to Westward Ho!

    September 2, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Lower Yelland to Westward Ho! 12 miles

    Last night was very restful even after a few pints of ale from the Brewery next door. A truly eccentric landlord.
    I set off this morning at 07.20am with a light pack. It was to be another glorious day. The path basically continues around the Taw estuary.
    I quickly got to Bideford and stopped briefly for middle breakfast.
    Most of the trail is suburban but there was a brief section through National Trust land which was very pleasant. I passed a Harland & Wolf shipyard with a baby Goliath lift which brought back happy memories of Belfast.
    Before long, I was passing through Appledore which was busy with families crab fishing or swimming.
    I entered the Northampton Burrows Cohntry Park which looks across the mouth of the estuary to Crow Rock. The walk continued around a golf course and followed a beach protected by a huge pebble defence wall into Westward Ho!
    The distance took me 4 hours.
    After a little food shop, I caught the bus back to the campsite.
    Admin completed, it’s time to let my feet recover.
    Tomorrow, I will walk from Westward Ho! to Clovelly. The scenery will become more dramatic.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Westward Ho! to Clovelly

    September 4, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A Brutual 11 miles.

    99 miles walked to this point.

    I set off at 8am from Westward Hoy! It was promising to be a hot day.
    I was escorted by two of the local constabulary for the first mile. They were looking for two children MFH who were camping on the coast.
    They located the kids who clearly had no intention of going to school.
    I carried on the path which was very strenuous. I stopped several times to eat my fill of blackberries. I was exhausted with climbing up and down headlands. At the halfway point today, I got to Peppercombe beach. I lay down and had a 45 minute nap. It was glorious, listening to the waves crashing through the huge pebble beach. The temperature was 25C.
    I carried on with the trail and eventually arrived 6.5 hours after setting out. I was literally washed out. I had drunk 4 litres of water.
    There are no campsites in Clovelly. I intended to carry on but I was exhausted.
    I checked into the New Inn and got myself a lovely room not before quenching my thirst with a hard earned pint of Guinness.
    Clovelly is beautiful and very touristy but it seems very quiet now the day tourists have left.
    I intend to have an early night and prepare for tomorrow’s adventure.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Clovelly to Stoke Martin

    September 5, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    10.5 miles 26C

    I am pleased that I took the break in the New Inn Hotel last night. I used all the facilities including a bath. I had a few pints and a huge sausage and mash dinner. An early night in a double bed.
    After a full breakfast this morning, I climbed back up the hill to the trail.
    What a stunning day unfolded before me. The trail took me through the Clovelly estate and onto a number of very steep headlands. I must be getting fitter as I seem to climb them a little quicker.
    There were no facilities on the entire path today so I had extra food and water with me.
    The weather was stunning but it quickly reached 26C. This time of year is supposed to be rain and misery but it wasn’t.
    The path eventually opened out to gentle undulating hills, through fields of grasslands with wild flower borders. It was stunning.
    The hedgerows are brimming with blackberries so I must have eaten my body weight of them. Those that know me, know that I am a big unit 😎.
    The coastline has become more dramatic. I reached Hartland Point around 12.30 and had a little siesta.
    The next two hours was spent climbing dramatic headlands until I got to my campsite at Stoke Barton.
    I was a little footsore and had drunk 5 litres of water.
    Admin completed, I will have an expedition meal tonight before turning in early.
    Tomorrow I hit a severe section with over 10 valleys to climb and descend over 15.5 miles. The temperature will be 25C and serious issue
    With a heavy pack and the heat factor, I will split this section in two parts.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Hartland Quay to Morwenstow

    September 6, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    8 miles 26C

    A great night at Stoke Barton campsite near Hartland Quay. I ended up chatting to a chap who had just fastpacked with a very light pack from Hartland Quay to Bude. He was absolutely exhausted. He strongly recommended splitting the distance in two. As the temperature was peaking at 26C again, I have followed his advice.
    I set off at 8am with a full pack. I kept leap frogging other coast walkers.
    The path took me over amazing his cliff paths but after each one there was a steep descent down to sea level and back up. Absolutely exhausting.
    I walked briefly with a couple from Bristol who’ve walked the SWCP path four times.
    Eventually, I arrived exhausted at the 13th Century Bush Inn at around 1pm. The staff will let you unofficially camp in their beer garden if you have a meal. Absolute no brainier as temperature continues to rise.
    I had a few pints and a lunch. Admin completed by having a bottle of water shower and rinsing my clothes.
    I intend to chill out the rest of the day in the shade and watch the shattered walkers come in.
    Tomorrow, I will set off early and complete the seven miles to Bude. There are still more severe hills on this section to walk. I need to beat the heat which is a ridiculous thing to say in the UK.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Morwenstow to Bude

    September 7, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    7.5 miles 26C

    The overnight stop at the Bush Inn was fantastic. Caught up with three other coast walkers who also pitched up at the pub. I had a second meal and a few pints before we all settled in for the night.
    We were all up at 0615 and I was on the path for 7am.
    It had rained overnight but all my kit was dry.
    For the next two hours, I crossed some BIG headlands. They were truly stunning. I was happily motoring on with Van Morrison on my iPod. I could see two of the guys from last night just starting their descents into the coves as I was ascending on the other side. Yesterday and todays ascents were 1,271m.
    The day was overcast and we had one brief cooling shower. Although, it was humid, you certainly could feel the heat building up.
    I passed a huge radar/listening station that dominated the landscape.
    By 1030, the two guys had caught up with me. Our energy levels were depleted but we were over the worse. We came upon a cafe and quickly demolished our full English breakfasts.
    The headlands reduced in their severity which meant an easy walk into Bude.
    The town is packed. We managed to find a small campsite on the outskirts of town.
    After quick showers, we were all into town to find a laundrette because with this heat and effort, we pose a serious health risk to ourselves and the public.
    The temperature continues to rise but early starts are the answer    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Bude to Crackington Haven

    September 8, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    10 miles 24C

    134 miles 7897m cumulative Ascent 25,912 fr

    I said goodbye to my fellow walkers this morning. We’ve enjoyed each other’s company the last few days. Although, I’m pretty sure one of them is lying low from the law.
    I decided to walk with a light pack and bus it back to Bude. I set off at 8am. There was a low sea mist all along the coastline but every now and then it cleared. This section was busy with day walkers and tourists on the path. I think that a number seriously underestimated the distance and how tough the path got.
    The path was very pleasant to Widenouth Bay. The beaches were busy with surfers and retired folk walking their dogs.
    I quickly made distance until I hit some BIG ascents and descents.
    The sea mist kept me cool but the humidity was high.
    As I approached my destination for the day, I was a stunning section called the Cleave. It was a thin precipice which was shrouded with sea mist on either side. It was amazing. I stopped for lunch on Castle Point before dropping into Crackington Haven.
    I had just enough time for a quick soda water and lime before catching the bus back to Bude.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Tintagel - The End Stage one

    September 9, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    With suspected food poisoning and a vertigo attack yesterday, I have decided not to walk on. I only had one more full day to do.
    Instead, this morning, I caught the bus from Bude to Tintagel and found a campsite.
    After a long rest, I had a short walk around Tintagel and to my great delight met up with my two walking companions as they made their way wearily into town.
    It made a wonderful finale to an amazing walk.
    The path is simply stunning but tough. Distances take a very long time because of the ascents and descents. The toil is worth it as the coastal scenery is breath taking.
    I will be back to continue where I left off….
    Thank you all for following and your supportive messages.Tintagel    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    South West Coastal Path (Part 2)

    June 13 in England ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    South West Coatal Path (Part 2)
    Day One Padstow to Portcothan
    15 miles
    After spending all day yesterday travelling to Padstow, I set off this morning on the Salt Path with a heavy pack. Padstow was just waking up. The ascent and descent wasn’t too bad. Overall, it was 640m.
    What did surprise me was the amount of mud on the trail, it was very slippery.
    The signage on the path is quite poor even just keeping the Ocean to your right caught me out a few times. I ended up on blocked paths or dead ends.
    I met another walker today and we ended up walking to our campsite for the evening just outside Portcothan.
    The morning was dry but as we passed Travose Head, the rain settled in for the day and I got soaked. I passed some stunning beach and watched a few hardy souls surfing.
    I finally arrived at the campsite when another deluge struck. I managed to get my tent up and have now settled down for the night.
    Tomorrow should be around 11 miles to Newquay. I just hope that the weather gets better as my kit is soaked.
    Overall, I have 12 days of walking. I hope to get to Falmouth. If I don’t , c’est la vie. Watch this space….    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 2 - Portcothan to Newquay

    June 14 in England ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Portcothan to Newquay
    11 miles (18kms)
    Ascent 670m (2200 ft)
    Last night’s campsite was heaven sent. Just as I arrived the weather really took a turn for the worse. I quickly put the tent up and threw everything into it. A quick shower and some noddles, I lay in my sleeping bag listening to the belting rain.
    A few times during the night, the clap of thunder woke me up. Thankfully, my tent stood up to the winds.
    I set off at 8am this morning in a light drizzle. Thankfully, it didn’t last long before the sun came out.
    This section is described as easy. I would disagree. There were a few steep climbs that were made difficult with a heavy and wet rucksack.
    I walked along the cliff tops to Bedruthan Steps. These were formed by huge landslips. The area was busy with day walker and runners. It was funny watching them gingerly trying not to get their boots/trainers on the muddy paths.
    I stopped for second breakfast at Mawgan Perth. It is a beautiful small beach resort. I know that the Cornish folk were once pirates but £17 for a small breakfast and a cup of tea is ridiculous. it was lovely and fortified me to carry on up another big cliff to Newquay.
    As I arrived in Newquay, I came upon a birthday party on the beach. Seeing a large lady dressed up as a mermaid took me a little by surprise. No photographs were taken. 😬
    I arrived at my campsite at 1pm and managed to get my clothes and I washed.
    The weather has turned very pleasant and all my kit has been dried on my makeshift line.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 3 - Newquay to St Agnes

    June 15 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 3 - Newquay to St. Agnes 16miles
    Ascent 600m

    I set off at 0645 this morning and had to negotiate my way out of Newquay. It was complicated because of the high tide. This added a few miles onto my journey today.
    I managed to cross the Gannel estuary via a footbridge on the outskirts of town. The path then followed the estuary to the sea unfortunately part of the way was blocked by the tide.
    I eventually made my way to Crantock Bridge and up onto the first headland of the day.
    The views were stunning. There were lots of day walkers and runners on the trail.

    After 6 miles, I reached the sandunes north of Holywell. The tide was going out so I managed to walk along the beach. The awkward bit was climbing the huge sand sun at the end of the beach to get to my first stop of the morning for coffee and a cream scone.
    I carried onto Penhale Point and pass an old military base before arriving at Perran Sands. The beach is over 3 miles long. I walked the entire length of it which saved my time and energy not having to walk through the dunes.
    I arrived in a very busy Perranporth. It was only 11.30am so I had a quick break and back out on the trail.
    This section to St. Agnes was fantastic. The trail looked like a lunar landscape. This is the effects of tin mining in the area. There were lots of warnings not to leave the trail. There were mine workings and mine shafts all round.
    I finally arrived at the Blue Hills Touring Park and found another walker there. The site had only one backpackers pitch and the warden tried to charge me £25 for a normal pitch. I negotiated him down to £20 which still feels ridiculous for a backpackers tent.
    Tomorrow’s walk will be beyond Portreath and described as spectacular scenery of the Tin Coast. It will be a tough day!    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 4 - St. Agnes to Gwithian

    June 16 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    St. Agnes to Gwithian
    18 miles 3,000ft Ascent

    I set off at 06.30am from the campsite just north of St.Agnes. and dropped into Trevunance Cove to start a steep hill climb onto the cliffs. The trail was fairly easy after that to Porthtowan. En route, I came across the amazing cliff top tin mines. The mines extend out under the sea. The buildings were amazing. I had the place all to myself.
    I carried on to Porthtowan where I waited 20 mins for a lovely coffee shop to open. Unfortunately, this means dropping down to sea level and then back up steep inclines to get back onto the cliffs to Portreath.
    The trail was comfortable on this section as I walked past a disused airfield on Nancekuke Common.
    As I descended into Portreath, I felt really tired but thankfully found a little bakery with seats in the shade.
    I decided that I would only walked a few more miles and stop at a campsite just beyond Portreath.
    The next 3 miles were brutal. I had to descent and ascent really steep sections. On the very last ascent, I met a couple day walking in the opposite direction who tried and failed to raise my spirits by saying look at the amazing scenery.
    I ungraciously replied that I was past that as I struggled with my heavy pack.
    A mile later and at the point of bailing out to a nearby campsite, I started to get my energy levels back and decided to carry on. AC/DC and Van Morrison helped me along.
    Near a place called ‘Deadman’s Cove’ (I’m not kidding), I met a trail walker going the opposite direction. He was walking the trail in aid of Prostate Cancer. He and I spent an hour just chatting. He was a retired Met Officer.
    I carried on my slog to Godrevy Point lighthouse and turned south towards Hayle and St.Ives Bay.
    I arrived at a fantastic campsite in Gwithian. The staff were very attentive and have charged me £10. The site is packed but I am tucked away in a backpackers section away from everyone.
    The weather has been stunning today. Admin completed, No blisters to speak of..
    St Ives tomorrow!    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 5 - Gwithian to St. Ives

    June 17 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Day 5 - Gwithian to St. Ives
    10 miles
    Another stunning day on the South West Coastal Path.
    I left the campsite at 7.30am this morning and walked three miles on the nearly empty stunning beach to Hayle..
    I arrived in Hayle around 08.30am. To be fair, Hayle seemed a little down on its luck. I did manage to find an Asda and got myself a huge coffee and a bacon butty.
    I eventually arrived in St.Ives around 11.30am and found a badly needed laundrette. All my kit washed, I walked down to the harbour. St. Ives is stunning but VERY busy with tourists.
    I wound my way up a steep road to my campsite in Ayr Holiday Park. It is a beautiful location with amazing vistas of St. Ives, the bay and a lot of the trail I’ve walked so far.
    I’m currently sitting sipping a cold pint of Guinness zero (I know! 😬) enjoying the view.
    Tomorrow will be a VERY tough day to Pendeen. The trail is described as severe and there are no food or drink options.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 6 - St.Ives to Pendeen Watch

    June 18 in England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Distance 14 miles
    Ascent 1100m (3610ft)

    This section is described as SEVERE in all the guidebook and they do not exaggerate!
    I set off at 06.30am to try and beat some of the hot weather. It’s fair to say I failed because I got cooked.
    The first few miles were fine as the trail hugged the cliffs. I had to contend with huge boulders and rocks from landslips on the trail. With a heavy pack, it was exhausting. I met an amazing Australian coupe who were walking the trail with big packs. They were in their 80s and had started in Minehead.
    After 3.5 hours, I was halfway to my final destination at Pendeen Watch. I was exhausted but found a house on a cliff top for a rest.,Amazingly, the owners have installed a tap outside their house. I was able to refill my dwindling water. That’s when things went a little off piste. I lost my way back on the trail so needed up walking a nearby road for 1/4 mile where I found a fantastic pub in a place called Treen. It was heaven set. Thank you Lord!
    I had a pint of soda water and lime and a bite to eat. I got speaking to a lovely girl from Nantwich who is walking the whole of the English coastline to celebrate her 30th birthday. We walked the next 7 miles together. Walking with someone else helps get the distance in. The terrain remained tough but the scenery is simply stunning. The sea is turquoise and the views are incredible. I have to keep reminding myself that this is England.
    After another 3.5 hours, I arrived at a small campsite at Pendeen Watch. The facilities at the site are rustic. The girl was carrying on to Sennan Cove.
    Admin completed, the campsite host has driven me to St. Just so I can get a meal. He’s 80 and a real character. I have enjoyed listening to his life story.
    Tomorrow promises to be even hotter so I think I may start the trail a lot earlier.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 7 - Pendeen Watch to Treen Campsite

    June 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Distance 16 miles over moderate terrain
    Ascent 3100 feet.

    An early start this morning, I set off alone on the trail and almost immediately came upon the Mine workings at Pendeen. The tin industry scowered the landscape. It seemed apocalyptic.
    A little further along, I came across the Levant mining complex. The whole area is pocketed with entrances to mines and shafts. Lots of sign instructing walkers not to divert from the paths.
    After 3.5 miles, I came to Cape Cornwall which was stunning particularly with the deep blue Ocean behind it.
    Looking at any map, you think that you will be there in 40-45 mins. Nothing could be further from the truth. The gradients are ridiculous and exhausting. I average a 2 mph pace.
    Things were awry at Cape Cornwall, I lost the coast path signage and went off piste. Trying to get back on the trail meant scrambling over walls and thicket. Not pleasant!
    Around mid-morning, I arrived at a beautiful surfing village called Sennen Cove. I had a wonderful full English breakfast to restore my energy levels.
    It was only 1km further to Land’s End. It was like a theme park. I didn’t stay long and carried on south before turning the corner at Gwennap Head.
    I arrived in Porthcurno, the home of the Monaco Theatre. I could not see any of the stage so carried on to climb yet another hill to my campsite.
    As I arrived, I was apprehensive as there was a sign stating the site was full.
    Thankfully, they always accommodate backpackers.
    Admin completed, it will be an early night for me. Tomorrow, I will be in Penzance.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 8 - Porthcurno to Marazion

    June 20 in England ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Distance 15 miles
    Ascent 1800ft.

    it rained for a short time but unbelievable everything was dry this morning.
    I set off at 7am and immediately set into ascents and descents. The terrain was tough. That’s probably why the guide book describes this section as ‘strenuous’. I have a few other descriptions but it won’t be appropriate.
    It took me 3.5 hours just to get to Lamona Cove. I was hoping that the cafe there would be open as I had nothing to eat for breakfast. Unfortunately, it was closed but they did have a covered veranda where I sat in the shade.
    Today was very hot and I quickly went through my 3 litres of water. I carried onto Mousehole through a lovely monkey puzzle forest. I also had to negotiate two horses blocking the path.
    Mousehole is lovely. There were a lot of artists working around the harbour. I found a lovely little cafe. As I resembled the bull in the china shop with my backpack, I managed to get a Cornish cheese bap and a Cornish Cola. It was expensive but at this stage, I couldn’t care less. I happily wolfed it down sitting on a bench overlooking the harbour with the locals swimming in it.
    The remainder of the trail was along the coastal paths in Penzance and out to Marazion.
    Penzance Bay is the home to St. Michael’s Mount.
    I got to Dove’s Meadow Campsite in Morazuon at around 3.30pm. It was FULlL however the warden took pity on me and has allowed me to tuck my tent in a small corner of the site. Admin done, it will be another early night for me.
    My feet are holding up well. I cannot believe how much water I am drinking. The temperature reached 22C today but it feels a lot hotter.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 9 - Marazion to Porthleven

    June 21 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    South West Coast Path (Part 2)

    Distance 11 miles
    Ascent 1916 ft

    A great night at the Doves Meadow Campsite. It remained really hot until a storm broke around 10pm. Thankfully that cooled things down.
    I set off at 7am this morning after taking my time breaking camp.
    There were showers and claps of thunder overhead for the next few hours. St. Michael’s Mount was barely visible in the mist. The walking was very pleasant. The coastal path meandered across fields and lanes as coastal erosion is a serious problem in this area.
    As I passed Cuddwn Point, the terrain became bolder with craggy headlands and long sandy beaches. I passed along stunning coves where they often two or three people swimming.
    After 5 or 6 miles, I arrived at the lovely beach at Prara Sands. It was a great place and time to stop for breakfast and a cup of tea.
    I walked the beach and rejoined the trail. The ascents and descents were constant. The trail is similar to a long narrow, winding wet green tunnel with head height ferns, fruze bushes and nettles to contend with. Almost at the end of a series of hills, I was stopped by a herd of cattle who had broken out of the field.
    There was no room to get past them and the risk of them stampeding off the cliff edge was very real. With the help of another trail walker, we pushed the cattle along the trail until we could find a gate to a field to move the cattle into safety. A crowd built up but nobody actually did anything to help.i never thought that herding cattle was going to be on the agenda. I am used to herding cats and dogs (I mean people) in a previous life. 😬
    I arrived in Porthleven to see the end of a pilot cutters race finishing in the harbour. The village was packed with rowing teams.
    I am now settled in a campsite and admin completed.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 10 - Portleven to Gwavas beyond Liza

    June 22 in England ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Distance 17 miles
    Ascent 2400ft

    Last night was very noisy at the campsite. The locals were celebrating the Pilot Gig Race. I was mugged by two seagulls who robbed me of my tuna sandwich while I was watching the rowing teams getting their boats out of the harbour.
    I set off this morning at 7am. It was perfect walking weather. It was overcast and cool.
    The walk overlooking Porthleven Sands was beautiful and fairly easy going. I seemed to quickly walk the 5 miles to Pildhu Cove. I arrived at 8.30am and found the lights on in a little cafe there. I asked a chap sweeping the front of it if they were open. He said not for another hour but made me a cappuccino for me. It must be a reward for my good deed yesterday. Fortified by the coffee, I carried on. towards the Lizard.
    The cliff walking was fantastic and the trail seemed to gently undulate.
    A couple of miles from Lizard Point, I dropped down into Kynance Cove and a very busy tea room. It was packed with tourists. From here on, the number of walkers increased. I had planned to stop, after 3.5 miles, at a campsite in Lizard but to be honest it was packed.
    I stopped for lunch at a working look-out station and decided to carry on for a few more miles.
    I could see a campsite a little further along the coast and made my way there.
    The farmer has set a very rustic campaite up. Basic showers and toilets with water. That’s all I need and for the princely sum of £5.
    A great day for walking.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 11 - Gwavas to Porthkerris

    June 23 in England ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Distance 14 miles
    Ascent 2955ft

    A wonderful overnight stay on the farm campsite. Very rustic but perfect for a backpacker.
    I was out on the trail for 6.35am this morning. It was another beautiful day and cool. After a short climb, there seemed to be a long section of gently meandering hills. I quickly arrived at a lovely village called Cadgwirh and saw the sea crater called the Devil’s Frying-pan.
    Cadgwirth is a charming village of thatched houses and small fishing boats.
    I had to descend and ascent some really steep cliffs. I met another walker travelling in the opposite direction. We stopped briefly and discussed the path ahead.
    Around 11am, I arrived at a larger village called Coverack where I stopped for a coffee break. I was hoping to buy some food provisions for tonight but unfortunately the only store in the place had closed down due to retirement. The villagers were struggling for basic provisions but they did direct me to a BIG spar supermarket in another village called St Keverne. So off I set inland to get provisions for my evening meal.
    I eventually got there about 45 mins later. To say that I was disappointed by the BIG Spar is an understatement. It was like a small corner shop.
    Anyway I managed to get something.
    I set off to rejoin the trail and found that a new section of path had been recently opened. This meant that I didn’t have a BIG climb to my final destination at Porthkerris. It is a busy Sports Diving Centre with a great food truck. I paid my £10 for my patch of land. It has great facilities and I managed to purchase my tea. No need to cook my simple provisions.
    Tomorrow, I will finish in Falmouth. I have to watch the tides as it will mean that I may have to wait for the right time to cross two estharies.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneSouth West Coastal PathMick Byrne

    Day 12 - Porthkerris to Falmouth

    June 24 in England ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Distance 18 miles
    Ascent 2500ft

    I was packed up and on the trail for 05.30am in order to make some of the estuary crossings.
    The first thing to contend with was climbing the headland to get to Porthallow. I counted over 300 steps straight up the cliff. I was exhausted and was only just starting the day.
    There was a slight mizzle which kept everything cool.
    In Porthallow, I came across the halway marker for the SWCP (315 miles in both directions).
    I had planned to take a small ferry on demand at Gillian Creek however I got there far too early to call. I therefore had to take an additional 1.5 mile detour.
    Other than that, the walking was pleasant. I arrived at Heldord to cross the river at 8.30am and had to wait an hour for the ferry. I quite enjoyed just relaxing.
    A short £7 ferry passage saved me another full day’s walking. The walking was excellent.
    At 11am, I arrived at Maenporth beach and found a small cafe where I had a sausage and bacon bap and a large tea. The bap was definitely not as nice as Kingsway Community Cafe’s.
    I carried on towards Falmouth and walked past a lot of lovely beaches.
    I eventually arrived in the Old Town where feeling very footsore, I celebrated my walk with a low alcohol beverage.
    I have walked around 180 miles with 28,105ft ascent from Padstow to Falmouth.
    The highlights have been the scenery, the people, the stunning weather, the seals, dolphins, hawks. The moments that took my breath away. The swallows darting around my legs on a high cliff top.
    I’ve already forgotten the low points.
    There is another 300 miles to go until the end of the SWCP. I will be back……    Read more

    Trip end
    June 24, 2025
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