Camper Travel 1974-1975

On a 13-month journey from North America through Central & South America, back to our starting point in NYC. Our means of transportation was a model 1972 VW Westfalia camper with a 1700cc engine and pop-up top. Total miles 37,492. Read more

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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 289 - Chavin de Huantar
February 16, 1975 in Peru
We began to climb over the Cordillera Negra. As we already knew, the road was under construction and partly tricky and slow to drive. After a high pass, we descended into the Huaraz Valley and turned left at Conococha.

In Catac, we turned right onto Route #110 towards Chavin de Hunatar, which had an archeological site we wanted to visit. On the way there, we collected watercress by a small brook; enough for a delicious dinner salad!

Then the road continued to climb again. At an altitude of 13,452 feet, we felt the high altitude symptoms. This time, we realized immediately what was happening to our bodies and drove down to a spot where we could rest for a few hours. Then the road passed through a long tunnel.

When we came out on the other side, we saw the village of Chavin de Huantar before us. We camped off the road in a dry creek bed. In hindsight, what a stupid thing to do during the rainy season!

Stats: Miles 130, Expenses $1.05Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 290 - Rescued 2x
February 17, 1975 in Peru
The car wouldn't start this morning. But the ignition light was on, meaning it wasn't a dead battery. What was I supposed to do? We are stuck in this dry creek bed miles away from a mechanic shop. What if it rains and there is a flash flood? What an unwise decision to camp in a river bed. Our hearts were pounding!

Then I remembered that Wally once told me the starter has an electromagnet that engages with the flywheel. Maybe the gear got stuck? I opened the engine compartment and searched for the starter but couldn't find it. I crawled under the engine where the transmission was, and there it was. I grabbed a rock and carefully knocked on the crankcase and starter housing from all sides. Then I tried to start the engine again. And miraculously, it did. A heavy burden fell from my chest!

Chavín de Huantar's archaeological site dates back to the Chavín culture, 1200 BC. It is believed to have been a ceremonial center. We could make out that there must have been prominent temples and other structures at the site, but it was more or less a mountain of rubble. Not much had been excavated and restored. Nevertheless, the area was quite large for this remote location. We noticed that the masonry wasn't as precise and intricate as those of the Incas. The underground passages featured granite heads. There was also an impressive tall monolith with engraved ornaments.

Around noon, we drove back to Catac. At one point, we had to avoid a collision with an oncoming truck on this narrow dirt road and landed in a ditch. No damage, thank God. Seeing our camper almost tipping over on its side wasn't funny. I should have taken a picture, but I forgot. After a little while, a truck with a group of men drove by and came to our rescue. It took them less than five minutes to shove and rock our vehicle back onto the road. What a relief that was. Two rescues in one day!

It was mostly downhill from there, and we arrived in Huaraz much faster than expected. The Thermal Bath was closed, and we could not camp in the parking lot. So, we drove to the airfield, where the folks were more "accommodating."

A dog visited us at dinnertime. He looked at us with such sad eyes; it broke our hearts! We shared some of our soup with him. He must have thought - friendly tourists. We had another watercress salad. Freshly picked mint leaves made a soothing bedtime tea.

Stats: Miles 90, Expenses $2.55Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 291 - Laguna Llanganuco
February 18, 1975 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F
(Ursula) The entire Huaraz Valley, all the way to Chimbote, suffered a strong earthquake four years ago. Most houses collapsed or were left with large cracks. Some survived but still, look crooked. Rebuilding is ongoing everywhere. There isn’t much money around this poor mountain region, so it’s a slow process. But people seem very resilient.

The village of Yungay suffered the most damage. When we came to where the village once stood, we saw only the top of the church tower and a few tips of palm trees. The rest was entirely buried by a massive landslide triggered by the earthquake. A statue of Christ was erected in memory of those who died here. It was a sad picture. Yungay Nuevo is being built about 3/4 miles to the North.

We like the Huaraz Valley. It is green thanks to irrigation channels with agricultural fields, mainly wheat, and potatoes. There are also a handful of tin and lead mines in operation here.

In the afternoon, we drove to the beautiful Laguna Llanganuco at the foot of the Chopicalqui. Heinz was out of fishing lures. But he managed to attach a fishhook to a red plastic spoon and went to try his luck. A few hours later, he came back with seven rainbow trouts. They tasted terrific with my homemade mayonnaise and roasted potatoes. There is plenty of fish left for tomorrow’s dinner!

Stats: Miles 36, Expenses $1.00Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 292 - Huallanca
February 19, 1975 in Peru
I checked the brakes this morning before the steep downhill drive to the buried village of Yungay.

We had an interesting conversation at the memorial with a surviving farmer who had lost his house and his entire family in the disaster. Among other things, he told us that the Red Cross had assisted the village. But because of corruption, the money and goods were not distributed evenly among the victims. He pointed to his felt hat with a grin and said: this is all they gave me!

We continued exploring the Huaraz Valley further to the North. It finally became narrow with steep drop-offs and ended in a long gorge with 34 tunnels. The road was built on an old railroad track.

At one point, we came to a newly constructed section of the road. The old section could be seen at 50 feet below. A damaged bus was still sitting on it. It looked like a drawing in a comic book! But it was nothing to laugh about. It’s the rainy season; it could happen again at any given time.

After a while, the road was worsening with slippery sections, potholes, and fallen rocks. We were almost out of the gorge when we had to stop at a barricade with a Do-Not-Cross sign. A worker made us understand that we should turn around. He said the road ahead to Chimbote was closed. Flash floods had washed away a bridge. An oncoming car confirmed his message.

So, we had no choice but to drive back the same way we came. And at the same time, the floodgates of heaven opened. We picked up a backpacker along the way. The poor guy was soaking wet and glad he could hitch a ride with us.

After hours we were out of the gorge again and already past Yungay. It was dark and still raining heavily. Up ahead, a large construction truck was blocking the road. There was no way to pass it. The driver said it couldn’t move due to a broken fuel line. He had sent his son to get help.

At that point, we were all tired but didn’t want to spend the night there. Instead, we drove back to Yungay Nuevo and camped at the new town square.

Stats: Miles 117, Expenses $2.30Read more
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Day 293 - Sechín
February 20, 1975 in Peru
This morning, I noticed an oil leak under the engine.

Upon closer examination, I noticed a piece of the engine block (cast aluminum) was cracked. It was right next to the oil drain plug that gave us trouble in Chile. I tried not to cry and think of a solution.

We stopped at the nearest gas station and bought two motor oil cans. Then I placed an empty cup under the leak and waited one hour with the engine running to measure how much oil dripped. It turned out to be 1-teacup. Now we knew how long we could drive before a refill was needed.

From Yungay Nuevo, we drove to Huaraz, then took the #14 over the Cordillera Negra back to the Pacific coast. On top of the Cordillera, traffic came to a halt. A truck was being towed because its brakes had failed. This created a long line of slow-moving traffic. I added oil every hour and monitored the oil pressure gauge.

We had zero visibility for a long time on the West side of the Cordillera due to dense fog. Then it started to rain heavily again. The road turned into a river. I had to navigate very carefully on the slippery ground. Then we briefly met a German couple in VW Camper heading for Huaraz. We said hello and wished them good luck!

The weather eventually improved, and so did the road. It was dry again, and we had a beautiful view. Further down, the road followed a river with corn, sugar cane, and cassava agricultural fields. We also noticed banana, avocado, papaya, and mango trees. Ursula bought a coconut and a bunch of bananas in the next village. Soon we were on a nicely paved road that led through the coastal desert.

We stayed overnight by the archeological site Sechín, near Casma. Ursula was cooking rice and tomato sauce for dinner. Russell, the American backpacker, slept in his tent beside our car.

Stats: Miles 123, Expenses $8.05Read more
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Day 294 - Chimbote
February 21, 1975 in Peru
(Ursula) The archeological site Cerro Sechín was built around 1,600 BC. It is believed to have been the capital of the Sechín culture.

Its temple was a heap of rubble but had over 150 large rock slabs engraved with monster depictions of mutilated warriors. Some slabs were 16 feet tall. Depictions included cut-off heads, arms, legs, and ears. Some of them also illustrated the human spine, stomach, and intestines. No guide was available, but the free brochure gave us a historical overview. The engraved plates and the stairs and murals were reasonably well preserved. We assumed the reason was the desert climate.

After a few miles, we reached Chimbote, where we enjoyed freshly squeezed carrot juice at the open market and said goodbye to Russell. Then we found a repair shop to have them fix the cracked aluminum and oil leak. The boss shook his head and said he couldn’t weld the aluminum. But he was quite resourceful and installed a heavy-duty oil plug from a truck with an oversized flange and seal covering the damaged area. Everything looks OK again, and no charge. We will soon find out if the repair job holds. We have a long way to go, and keeping our fingers crossed.

We continued driving north, along the Pacific coast all day, and reached the city of Trujillo after dark. Someone we met back in Rio de Janeiro had given us the name of a Restaurant Huanchaco near the beach that supposedly has good fish and allows campers to park overnight. Unfortunately, it was difficult to find in the dark, and by the time we finally got there, it was about to close. The manager said he couldn’t accommodate us and we should come back the next day around 1 PM.

We found a public park not too far away and camped there for the night. Ursula served a quick soup and bread for dinner. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the archeological site, Chan Chan.

Stats: Miles 141, Expenses $0.00Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 295 - Chan Chan, Trujillo
February 22, 1975 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F
Today was a busy day.

We visited Chan Chan and Citadela Tschudi, named after a Swiss naturalist who excavated part of the Archeological site. It was built by the Chimú culture in 900AD and later conquered by the Incas in 1470. The entire area covered 10 square miles. An estimated 20,000 people were living there at the time.

Nobody was at the admission office, so we walked right in.

Only smaller sections of the site were excavated and restored; most of it is still covered with sand. What we saw was exciting and different from other sites we visited before. The structures were built with mud bricks, covered by thick layers of plaster. Some of the plaster had color-painted ornaments. Other structures were decorated with plaster ornaments of pelicans, sea otters, cormorants, and fish or geometric patterns.

Afterward, we wanted to visit the Archaeological Museum, but it was closed. A nice off-duty policeman accompanied us to a private museum with a pottery collection from various pre-Columbian cultures. Then he showed us to the open market, where we bought fresh vegetables and fruits. Later we drove to Trujillo 5 miles away, for lunch and stocked up on spare parts from Volkswagen.

Returning to Chan Chan, we paid the entrance fee we had skipped earlier. While there, we met an archeology guide working there for many years. He knew the area well and showed us places that regular tourists seldom see (at least, that's what he claimed). How fortunate - that was special.

Then he invited us to his home, where he presented us with prints on rice paper of Chan Chan motifs that he handcrafted. We were not obligated, but Ursula purchased three pieces from him for his kindness. Later on, we visited the "El Dragon" temple. It was built during the same period; part had to be reconstructed.

As we drove back and forth between sites today, I heard an unusual rattling noise that seemed to come from below the camper. When I followed up on it, I noticed the bolts holding the transmission to the engine were loose. I tightened them as best as I could. Surely, that must have resulted from the bumpy dirt roads during the past month. I need to have them appropriately tightened by a professional with a torque wrench on the next occasion.

Late afternoon, we returned to Huanchaco and ordered a large cerveza and coke in the restaurant by the sea. It had been hot and dry all day. We were probably a little dehydrated. The fried fish we ordered for dinner was indeed delicious. We stayed overnight in the restaurant's parking lot.

Stats: Miles 39, Expenses $14.45Read more
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Day 298 - Talara
February 24, 1975 in Peru
I had to frequent the men’s room several times during the night. Not sure what I ate that may have caused the problem, but I felt better in the morning.

Ursula is busy mending her blue jeans, and I service the brakes and lubricate the clutch and gas pedal joints. It is a beautiful day. Many people are coming to the beach for a swim this Sunday.

After noon, we followed the Panamericana North to Chiclayo. The area was pretty flat, planted with sugarcane and rice. We made a few Coca-Cola stops and checked for oil leaks. Everything looks just fine so far. We stopped by a shallow stream and washed the car in the evening. We liked the spot and decided to camp there for the night.

Stats: Miles 189, Expenses $2.05

February 24th
Like yesterday, there wasn’t anything special to write about today. I was a lot of driving. Most areas were barren, with occasional cotton fields. According to our travel guide, there should have been a turn-off to a beach at marker 1,231. But there was absolutely nothing there. It must have dissolved in thin air!

A few miles further North, we came upon a small fishing village where we found a place to camp. We are now near the Ecuadorian border. We were planning to cross it tomorrow.

Stats: Miles 308, Expenses $2.45Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 300 - Tendales, Ecuador
February 25, 1975 in Ecuador
Today we crossed the border into Ecuador without any difficulties. And with that, the climate and landscape changed to tropical-humid.

We drove past endless banana and sugarcane plantations. In certain areas, we also noticed rice fields. Most farm buildings were bamboo huts with thatched roofs on raised platforms.

There were no directional signs in the villages. We needed to stop often and ask for directions to be sure we were on the right track. At Pasaje, we turned right and followed Route #59 toward the mountains. The dirt road was in good condition. It first led over hilly terrain and meandered through valleys as we approached the Cordillera Negra.

Toward evening, we camped at the foot of a mountain by a restaurant with a swimming pool, where we met a French couple, Patrick and Nelly. They are traveling in a 69-VW camper on their way to Patagonia. We ate dinner together at the restaurant. Later, the kitchen staff brought flambéed bananas to our campers for dessert. What a sweet treat!

For the next few days, we planned to follow up on a lead from a traveler in Chile of someone in Cuenca who might be interested in buying our camper.

Stats: Miles 130, Expenses $2.25Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 301 - Cuenca
February 26, 1975 in Ecuador
Before leaving this morning, we cleaned the inside of our "house" to look more presentable.

Then the road climbed into the Cordillera Negra. The deeper we drove into the mountains, the worse the weather became. Soon it was raining heavily, and the road became like the one in the Huaraz Valley. On the outskirts of Cuenca, we had a flat tire. What a "pain in the rain."

I was in my rain jacket and rubber boots, changing the wheel, watching people with buckets scooping up water from inside their huts and throwing it out the front door. It looked so funny! We were later told this was normal during the rainy season. We ate something in a small restaurant, and after a long search, found parking where we were allowed to stay overnight.

We observed a few people that looked like drifters or drug addicts and were not locals. Cuenca is a city of about 80,000 people. There wasn't much we could do that day because of the rain, and we decided to wait with the visit of our contact until it cleared up.

Stats: Miles 110, Expenses $5.51Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 302 - Cuenca
February 27, 1975 in Ecuador
(Ursula) This morning, Heinz exchanged Dollars for Sucres on the black market. According to the radio, rain was again in the forecast for the afternoon.

We took advantage of the no-rain window to visit the open marketplace. A farmer proudly handed us a 13-inch plátano. We were not surprised about its size. Even the cabbage heads and carrots looked gigantic.

The market also featured woven Agave products like ropes, mats, and baskets. Besides that, it had almost everything else farmers from the region would need or sell, including rabbit, chicken, sheep, and piglets. It was an exciting visit!

Then we visited our contact, Mr. Beguin, at the Omega Watch assembly factory. He welcomed us and gave us a tour of the facility. Unfortunately, he was not interested in buying our camper. But he made a few phone calls and gave us the address of an Optician in town who might be interested.

We liked the city of Cuenca. It had a character with its old Colonial-style buildings. The newer buildings, however, were much less impressive.

Unfortunately, we couldn't agree on a selling price with the Optician. He wasn't pleasant and probably more interested in flipping it and making a profit. I was glad we didn't sell it to him. The camper suddenly grew on me as we were showing it. I was confident there would be more potential buyers in Guayaquil at the German College.

A bit off the beaten track, near Baños, was a lovely spot next to a Thermal Bath where we camped that evening. Tomorrow, we will be heading for the coastal city of Guayaquil.

Stats: Miles 8, Expenses $2.70Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 303 - Leaving Cuenca
February 28, 1975 in Ecuador
We drove for nine long hours down Route #582 from the mountains toward Guayaquil.

The journey was challenging—drizzling rain, thick fog, and at times, almost zero visibility. Some sections of the road were muddy, and the rear wheels lost traction a few times, but we managed to push through.

Along the way, we stocked up on fresh vegetables and fruit and filled the tank. Fuel in Ecuador is unbelievably cheap—only 55 cents per gallon!

For the night, we camped behind a gas station at sea level. While I prepared the camper, Ursula cooked dinner. A group of curious village children gathered nearby, sitting on the ground, watching our every move with their beautiful dark eyes. Maybe they had never seen a bright yellow “lunar vehicle” with a kitchen and bedroom inside!

We’re deep in banana country again, and the mosquitoes are relentless tonight.

If all goes as planned, we should reach Guayaquil before noon tomorrow.

Stats: Miles 163, Expenses $3.55Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 305 - Guayaquil
March 1, 1975 in Ecuador
We arrived in Guayaquil, crossing an impressive multi-lane toll bridge into the bustling port city. The heat and humidity were intense—just driving had sweat trickling down my back.

Finding the Colegio Alemán Humboldt (German College) was easy, thanks to recommendations from fellow travelers. It turned out to be a safe and welcoming spot, where we reunited with two other VW campers we had met in Rio de Janeiro and Lima.

Since it was Saturday, we had to wait until Monday to visit the bank and start searching for a shipping agent to arrange transport to New Zealand.

Stats: Miles 54, Expenses $6.75Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 306 - Guayaquil
March 2, 1975 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F
(Ursula) Sleeping was a nightmare!

A mosquito tormented me all night, buzzing around my ears just as I was about to drift off. And it wasn’t just the noise—they bit too! Somehow, despite our mosquito net, they found a way inside the cabin. Heinz kept turning on the lights, swatting them whenever he could. Between the relentless heat, humidity, and this never-ending battle, it was an absolutely miserable night.

I spent most of today recovering while Heinz worked on the camper, rechecking the valve clearance. He also put up For Sale signs around the school compound and spread the word among our camper friends.

In the evening, we escaped to the city for a drink—mostly to get away from the mosquitos. But soon, drinks turned into dinner. The real challenge? Finding a place with prices we could actually digest.

Stats: Miles driven 9, Expenses $5.55Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 307 - Guayaquil
March 3, 1975 in Ecuador
(Ursula) We got up early and headed to the city.

Citibank wasn’t represented in Guayaquil, but we could withdraw money from our Swiss bank account. Heinz even got some of it paid out in US$, which he will exchange on the black market.

We may have to take the camper to New Zealand if we cannot sell it here. Johnson Line quoted us a price of $830 to Auckland (including the camper).

In the afternoon, we went food shopping and spent the rest of the day talking to people and trying to sell the camper. We wrote letters and postcards to our family and friends in the evening.

Stats: Miles 15, Expenses $7.10Read more
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Day 308 - Guayaquil
March 4, 1975 in Ecuador
It’s raining again, and so far, there’s been no interest in our camper—frustrating, to say the least.

But then came an even bigger shock. While checking our passports, I realized that our New Zealand visas had expired. I couldn’t believe it! How had I been so oblivious to the one-year time limit? Oh, dear God!

A call to the New Zealand embassy in NYC confirmed my worst fear—extensions weren’t possible. We’d have to start the entire application process from scratch.

I felt awful. Stupid. Like the needle on our future plans had just snapped back to zero. Suddenly, we were adrift, like a ship without a rudder.

For now, New Zealand is off the table. It’s a tough blow, but we need to take a breath, regroup, and figure out a Plan B.

In the meantime, we’re turning our focus to Ecuador. Tomorrow morning, we leave Guayaquil to see what else this country has in store for us.

Stats: Miles 47, Expenses $4.00Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 309 - Guano & Saquisili
March 5, 1975 in Ecuador
We stopped at the post office to drop off the mail, then drove toward Quito.

A nicely paved road led into the mountains, where we were greeted on and off with slight rain. After Riobamba, we visited Guano, the well-known weaver village, and marveled at the hand-woven rugs, but the motives were not to our liking.

Then we continued driving a bit longer and spent the night in Saquisili.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Indio Market here (one of the most beautiful in Ecuador) and want to be there early.

Stats: Miles 190, Expenses $4.05Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 310 - Quito
March 6, 1975 in Ecuador
The Saquisili market was authentic and well worth seeing.

It is primarily where farmers trade and sell their goods vs. only vendors selling souvenirs to tourists. And it was huge! So huge that it was spread over five different locations in town.

One location was dedicated to livestock. Another one specialized in textiles and fabrics. Other places had food items, including hot soups and roasted pork.

And there was a separate one with items made from Agave fibers, such as ropes, baskets, and shoulder bags. We loved the woven baskets. Ursula traded a pair of old jeans for a large one for our camper to store fruits and veggies in.

In the afternoon, we left Saquisili and drove to Quito, the capital. Quito is 9,350 feet above sea level, surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes. We picked up the mail at the Swiss Consulate and proceeded to the German Humboldt School.

As always, we were warmly welcomed and assigned a parking space. The yellow VW camper, with the two Brazilians we have met before, is stationed next to us.

Stats: Miles 61, Expenses $0.00Read more
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Day 311 - Quito
March 7, 1975 in Ecuador
With our future plans suddenly up in the air, we’ve started considering the idea of returning to Switzerland after this trip to start a family.

One possibility is to drive to Venezuela and take a boat to a European port. But for now, it’s just a thought—we’d need to learn more about the formalities at the Venezuelan Consulate before making any decisions.

This morning, I noticed the front tires were wearing down unevenly, so we took the car to a VW dealer for a front-wheel alignment. After that, we stopped at Minimarket La Favorita to pick up milk, cheese, butter, and bread. I also spotted a bottle of Martini & Rossi Vermouth—a guaranteed good time in a bottle!

Towards evening, we were joined at the Humboldt School by another camper couple, Gregor & Ellen from Flensburg, Germany. We had met them earlier in Peru and again in Guayaquil. Was it just coincidence that our paths kept crossing, or was it fate? We’ll find out soon enough.

Stats: Miles 6, Expenses $13.45Read more
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Day 314 - Quito
March 10, 1975 in Ecuador
The climate in Quito is refreshingly cool and dry, with brief evening showers almost daily. Nights can get chilly, dropping into the 40s°F, but overall, it’s quite comfortable. Behind the school where we’re stationed, there are toilets and hot showers, which is really all we need—simple but sufficient with around the clock security.

At 10 AM, we headed to the Venezuelan Consulate to inquire about shipping our vehicle and the necessary paperwork. The information provided was minimal, but at least we got the basics. The Consul certainly made himself feel important, though, I must admit, he was far more civilized than the one we dealt with in Maicao last year. We were told to return on Monday with our passports, and our Visa would be ready the following day. Bureaucracy at its finest!

Stats: Miles 34, Expenses $10.25Read more
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Day 315 - Otavalo
March 11, 1975 in Ecuador
This morning, we set out to visit the Indio Market in Otavalo—a vibrant, bustling place filled with colors, sounds, and plenty of tourists.

The men selling goods wore traditional white trousers cropped at the knee, paired with white button-up shirts under dark ponchos. Their long hair was neatly braided into a ponytail, peeking out from beneath dark felt hats. The women wore flowing skirts and beautifully embroidered blouses, accessorized with gold-colored necklaces and coral bracelets. Watching them in action, negotiating and showcasing their crafts, was mesmerizing.

At one point, we noticed a woman in a flowing, colorful skirt squatting on the ground on one side of the street. Curious about what she was doing, we watched for a moment—until we saw a stream of urine trickling out from under her garment. Suddenly, it all made sense! We couldn’t help but laugh at the unexpected scene.

Ursula traded a used blouse for an Inca-style necklace and some silver jewelry. We ended up spending nearly the whole day wandering through this incredible market.

On our way back, we gave a Swiss backpacker a ride to Quito. He was grateful for the lift, especially since it had just started to rain when he climbed aboard.

Stats: Miles 11, Expenses $1.75Read more
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Day 317 - Quito
March 13, 1975 in Ecuador
March 12th – A Rainy Day at the Humboldt School

Today wasn’t ideal for traveling! Gray skies and drizzle kept us mostly inside the camper. Two more campers arrived at the Humboldt School, both from the U.S. and heading south toward Argentina.

Other than a quick trip to the grocery store, we spent the day journaling and writing letters to friends and family. Meanwhile, the two Brazilians in the yellow camper packed up and set off toward Colombia.

Miles driven: 4 - Expenses: $4.40

⸻

March 13th – Errands & Exchanges

A quiet day with a few errands. We dropped off our passports at the Venezuelan consulate, then wandered through shops and boutiques. Later, we stopped at Correo to mail our letters and exchanged dollars on the black market—an interesting experience, as always.

Miles driven: 17 - Expenses: $1.90Read more
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Day 318 - Cayambe
March 14, 1975 in Ecuador
March 14th – A Carpet, Cheese & Unexpected Encounters

(Ursula) Right after breakfast, we made our way back to the Olga Fisch store in Quito. I had spotted a stunning handwoven Inca-patterned rug there yesterday, dyed in beautiful natural colors. I must have dreamed about it all night!

It was expensive, but one of those must-have moments. Unfortunately, our credit card had expired, leaving us in a bind. But to my surprise, Olga trusted me and accepted a personal check—a rare and kind gesture. I proudly left the store, not just with the carpet but also with a beautiful oil painting. What a treasure!

From there, we set off with Gregor & Ellen to Cayambe, hoping to visit a Nestlé dairy factory. When we arrived, the factory had already closed. But Gregor, never one to give up easily, knocked on the heavy entry gate. To our surprise, the cheese maker himself, Oskar Kägi, answered, still shaking off sleep from an afternoon nap.

He turned out to be a charming and passionate man, eager to show us around. As he guided us through the facility, he spoke with great pride about his craft, emphasizing the “30% mysterious substances” in cow’s milk that scientists were still trying to fully understand. We didn’t dare challenge his belief!

Before leaving, we got the chance to buy some cheese at wholesale prices. The Appenzeller was incredible—rich, flavorful, and aged to perfection.

Our next stop was Lago San Pablo for a bit of fishing, but luck wasn’t on our side. Instead, we had an unexpected reunion with a German teacher we knew from the Humboldt School in Guayaquil.

As night fell, all five of us squeezed into our little camper, sharing tea, laughter, and endless jokes. A perfect end to an eventful day.

Stats: Miles driven 74, Expenses $156.70Read more
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Day 319 - Otavalo again
March 15, 1975 in Ecuador
(Ursula) Today we showed Gregor & Ellen the Otavalo Indio Market (although we have already seen it earlier). They also liked it very much.

Gregor bought a pair of earrings and a brooch for Ellen with a typical white blouse. I purchased a necklace with old Inca stones and traded my little (silver-plated) ring for Indio clothing. We had intended to visit the market in Ibarra afterward, but none of us felt like visiting another market today.

Instead, we drove to Laguna San Pablo for fishing. However, the terrain around the lake wasn’t easily accessible because of reeds. We spent a cozy evening together at the Laguna and stayed there overnight.

Stats: Miles 32, Expenses $9.20Read more
TravelerOtavalo hat uns sehr gut gefallen im 1980. Schöne Gegend und schöne Männer mit langen Zöpfen!!
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 320 - Cayambe
March 16, 1975 in Ecuador
March 15th – Fishing Adventures & a Mountain Camp

We spent hours driving through the countryside between Ibarra and Otavalo, searching for the perfect fishing spot. Streams, rivers, lakes, and lagoons—one after another—but either the locals didn’t know if there were fish or simply didn’t want to share their secrets.

Frustrated but not defeated, we decided to take a bumpy backroad to Cayambe, and finally, we spotted a promising creek. The men sprang into action, eager to test their luck. Before long, they returned victorious, holding six beautiful trout! That was it—they were hooked on fishing!

Gregor, convinced there had to be even better trout waters nearby, insisted we push further into the mountains to a remote laguna. The path leading there was not meant for cars, but that didn’t stop us. We climbed up a steep, slippery road, the ground getting wetter and muddier by the minute. At one particularly sharp hairpin turn, both of our vehicles got stuck.

Thankfully, after some careful maneuvering, we managed to back up to a small level clearing, which became our campsite for the night.

Under the stars, Ellen wrapped the trout in aluminum foil and grilled them to perfection, while I made a fresh mixed salad and a pot of spaghetti. Sitting around in the cool mountain air, savoring our delicious meal, we all agreed—it had been an adventure well worth the effort.

Stats: Miles 62, Expenses $0.00Read more
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