Camper Travel 1974-1975

On a 13-month journey from North America through Central & South America, back to our starting point in NYC. Our means of transportation was a model 1972 VW Westfalia camper with a 1700cc engine and pop-up top. Total miles 37,492. Читать далее

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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 196 - Curitiba
13 ноября 1974 г., Бразилия
We only slept for a few hours, as the airport traffic woke us up. We ate breakfast at the airport restaurant as a special treat for a new beginning (as a team of two).

Our table had a view of the airstrip and downtown São Paulo in the background. It reminded us of the view from La Guardia Airport with the skyline of Manhattan.

After a stop at the Post Office, we oriented ourselves on the map to find the road to Curitiba. It felt strange to be on the road without Wally. We missed him already.

Although the camper was a bit lighter now and had more room, we were used to traveling as a team of three for the last seven months.

We hope he made the right decision to stay in Brazil. At least we know that Ritoca will be thrilled to see him again, and he can probably stay with her family. We keep our fingers crossed!

Shortly before Curitiba, we stayed overnight at a rest area with drinking water and bathrooms. We felt tired and went to sleep right after dinner.

Stats: Miles 279, Expenses $21.65Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 197 - Heading for Iguazú Falls
14 ноября 1974 г., Бразилия
(Ursula) We were busy washing clothes and rearranging things in the camper that we didn’t realize how fast time had passed.

We have more room in the cabinets and everywhere now. It’s surprising how one traveler less can free up so much space. It looks almost empty inside now. We finally hit the road again at 2 PM.

Our next destination is Iguazú Falls. The landscape had changed again. It was less mountainous with long grassy hills. We saw newly planted fir trees on one side of the road, which made the palm trees on the other side look funny!

As we move further away from the Equator, the days are getting longer. Driving was brutal toward the evening when the sun was so low over the horizon, pointing directly at us, but it looked amazing.

Miles driven 176, Expenses $15.45Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 198 - Iguazú Falls
15 ноября 1974 г., Бразилия
(Ursula) Last night we stayed at a gas station in Guarapuava. A chicken family wandered around our camper, and Büsi had fun chasing the tiny chicks.

Route 277 was nicely paved and in good condition. The terrain is starting to get hilly.

At one point, a VW Beetle came fast around a curve racing directly at us. Man, oh, man! It happened so fast that I felt goosebumps afterward. Fortunately, Heinz reacted in a flash and tore the steering wheel to the right. We avoided a frontal collision and nearly ended up in a ditch. The angels looked out for us - we could have been in a fatal accident.

By early afternoon, we reached Iguazú Falls at the borders of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. Fellow travelers recommended visiting the Falls from the Argentinean side.

A ferry took us across the Paraná River to Argentina. The border crossing went unbelievably smoothly. Not even a car search! Büsi was tucked away in her hiding place under the passenger seat. This was the fastest border crossing ever. Yea!

Iguazú Falls was surrounded by nature and not at all commercialized like Niagara Falls in New York. The views of the waterfalls from the Argentine side were most impressive. We followed the trail over an elevated walkway and wooden bridges to the mighty Devils Falls. The eerie masses of water created a roaring noise and delicate mist. It was absolutely breathtaking to watch.

By now, it was late afternoon, and the light was just perfect for Heinz to take photos. After a soda and beer at the visitor center, we found a nice campsite directly on the riverbanks of the Rio Paraná.

Stats: Miles 229, Expenses $19.30Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 190 - Discovering Iguazú Falls
16 ноября 1974 г., Бразилия
(Ursula) We only heard the distant roar of cataracts, birds chirping, and passing parrots' occasional shrieks.

Since we ran out of bread and were low on other food, we also went shopping in Puerto Iguazú. I couldn't believe my eyes and constantly thought the price tags were wrong. Food was so much cheaper in Argentina, compared to Venezuela and Brazil, especially the meat. We paid 50 cents for four pork chops.

Equipped with a photo and movie camera, we took off on another discovery of the Iguazú Falls. There were many secondary waterfalls beside the mighty Devils Falls. With all of this beautiful nature preserve in action, we could have walked around for days. Heinz was able to capture many beautiful scenes.

Back at the campsite, I washed clothes, and we took showers. Heinz shampooed his hair and trimmed his beard. He looks so clean-cut. I'm ready to marry him again!

Towards evening we made the acquaintance of a lovely backpacker couple from Australia. He is a farmer, and she is a nurse. We drank tea together and chatted into the night.

Stats: Miles 31, Expenses $10.45Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 200 - Missiones
17 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
We decided to offer the Australians, Chris, and Valerie, a ride to Buenos Aires. We liked the couple and believe they will be interesting travel companions.

And we were also hoping to learn about their experience traveling in New Zealand, our next destination after this journey. We obtained Immigration Visas for New Zealand before we left New York, and I have job assurance from a jewelry store in Christchurch.

Busi was very interested in something crawling through the underbrush. I went to take a closer look and discovered a sizable Lizard. Ursula had to wash a few more clothes while I checked the oil level and greased the mechanical joints of the steering mechanism.

Around noon we were ready to head South on Route #12 in Montecarlo, where we visited a Swiss watchmaker. He was French-speaking and had an interesting shop equipped to service all sorts of timepieces, from wall clocks to wristwatches and alarm clocks.

He was a true gentleman and put us up for the night at the local Swiss Club. It was a relatively small community, and we appreciated the access to showers, toilets, and safe drinking water.

Stats: Miles 78, Expenses $0.30Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 201 - Tea Plantation
18 ноября 1974 г., Парагвай
(Ursula) We are in the northernmost Province of Argentina, Missiones, driving south towards Buenos Aires. Today we are visiting a tea plantation.

Tea grows here as 4-feet high hedges planted in long rows. We saw the fields where workers cut off new growth with a particular machine. New growth is being harvested about every two weeks.

We were allowed to see the facility where the leaves were dried and processed.

The harvested green leaves shrink and curl up during the drying process. Once dry, they are transported via a conveyor belt and placed onto layered vibrating sieves. The tea that stays on the top sieve becomes the #1 quality. The sieve below yields the #2 quality, and so on. There are a total of 5 sieves. The bottom one collects the tiny parts (lowest quality) used in tea bags.

A Dutch company, the largest customer, owns 51% of this plantation and operation.

After the visit, director Niederberger invited us to his parent's home for coffee and home-baked bunt cake. His mom talked to us in German about coming to Argentina from Austria after WW II and the hard work of clearing the land and planting tea.

Life seems challenging in Argentina for business owners with the constant currency devaluations and ever-changing governments.

Stats: Miles 5, Expenses $2.70Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 202 - Orange processing & More
19 ноября 1974 г., Парагвай
(Ursula) Today we want to check out a few more industries on the recommendations list from Bruno, whom we met at Copacabana. The first one was an Orange processing plant.

A guide took us on a tour. Truckloads from surrounding plantations bring in fruits. Upon arrival, the oranges are placed on a conveyor belt where “unacceptable” ones are manually removed. Then they are washed, rinsed, waxed, and dried. In the end, they looked nice and shiny. Oranges are then sorted by size and quality before being packaged.

I wanted to hug the man that gave me a large box of oranges of the highest quality. We could hardly wait to eat some. They were so sweet and juicy!

(Heinz) A little further, we stopped at a citrus processing plant on the shores of the Paraná River. Unfortunately, it wasn’t in service because they adjusted the machines from Oranges to Lemons. But the guide showed us around and explained the whole process.

An automated machine individually squeezes each fruit. The liquid then enters a centrifuge that separates the pulp from the juice. The juice is then sterilized and bottled. The leftovers are not thrown away. They undergo a unique process of extracting oils from the peels used in the food and cosmetics industry. The oils are more profitable than the juice.

(Ursula) Our next stop was at a paper factory. Wood (mostly Pine and Eucalyptus) is shredded and boiled with sulfate and calcium. Then it is bleached several times by adding Chlorine. Finally, the soft, white cellulose is dried by passing through a series of steaming-hot rollers and ending up as a (raw) paper. This raw material is later processed into various paper products at other specialized factories.

What an interesting and educational day this has been!

And the Australians turned out to be good travel companions, as expected. Next, we visited the Jesuit ruins of San Ignacio and found a nice campground just before the town of Posadas on the Rio Paraná. From here, we can see Paraguay across the river.

Stats: Miles 146, Expenses $5.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 203 - Parilla party
20 ноября 1974 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 75 °F
(Ursula) It was a stormy night! I have never experienced anything like that before.

There was almost continuous lightning and thunder, with heavy wind gusts and rain keeping us awake all night.

We felt so sorry for the Australians in their little bitty tent outside. All their things got soaking wet. Somewhat tired, we all had breakfast together in the Camper and continued driving south until we had a flat tire.

Heinz quickly mounted the spare wheel and repaired the flat in the next town. It continued to rain all day, but in the evening, while we ate dinner at a small restaurant, the skies brightened up again. Stats: Miles 257, Expenses $6.90

November 21st
(Ursula) The landscape has now completely changed. Everything is flat and flatter. We see lush pastures and cattle on one side and immense agricultural fields with soybeans, corn, or sunflowers on the other.

When we stopped to buy bread in a small village near Santa Fe, Heinz started talking to some locals who asked us to join them in the evening at a Parilla party.

We found a camping spot near the Park where the party would be. Valerie and I washed clothes while Heinz and Chris went to the butcher store. They came home with 5 pounds of beef for $1.70.

The Parilla party was very lively. There must have been about 150 people gathered on long tables. The grill master proudly demonstrated the Argentinean way of grilling and roasting different cuts of meats and sausages. And, oh boy, was the meat ever so tasty!

We appreciated the village people's kindness in including us. After all, we were total strangers just passing through. This spontaneous, loving way is a wonderful feeling we experienced throughout our journey.

Stats: Miles 246, Expenses $5.15Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 205 - Taking Rest Day
22 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
(Ursula) We are staying in this friendly small village and taking a rest day. Valerie and I are washing clothes while Heinz is performing car maintenance. Chris is writing in their travel diary.

It was a comfortable day drinking tea in between and eating well. There were leftovers from the Parilla party and tasty vegetables they called Zapatillo. We still had lots of oranges, so I made Sangria drinks and an orange salad for dessert. Stats: Expenses $2.35

November 23rd
(Ursula) And our trip continues. Driving through the cities of Santa Fe and Rosario with large industrial zones. Many red lights and heavy truck traffic slowed us down, but we were not in a hurry.

Between cities, we passed beautiful sunflower fields and cattle pastures again.

Toward the evening, we stopped in San Pedro, where we found a campsite on the Rio Paraná. The river was colored red from all our rain, but we bravely took a refreshing dip since the campsite lacked showers. We were feeling so great!

Stats: Miles 84, Expenses $5.15Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 207 - Nearing Buenos Aires
24 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
(Ursula) Met an Argentine couple on the campground who were actually immigrants from Yugoslavia and spoke some German. Very nice people. They shared a popular meat pie with us and fresh strawberries. We spent a comfortable Sunday with them and a peaceful evening after all the locals had left.

For dinner, I made a typical Rösti (pan-fried hash browns and cheese). I wanted to surprise Valerie & Chris with a typical Swiss dish. I thought the Sangria was especially good today!

Stats: Expenses $0.25Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 208 - Buenos Aires
25 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
After two hours of driving, we reached the city limits of Buenos Aires and navigated our way to the suburb of El Tigre, where we had a contact at the Nestlé ice cream factory.

Unfortunately, the person we wanted to see was tied up in a meeting, and we had to try again later. In the meantime, we located the Swiss Club and received permission to stay and use the facilities.

In the afternoon, we tried Nestlé again, and our contact, Mr. Hellwig, received us with a bright smile. He gave us a factory tour and offered to help us locate a set of new tires we badly needed. He accompanied us to the business district where all the car dealers were. After some searching and inquiries, he found a company offering 4 (almost new) Michelin’s for about half the price.

I immediately left a downpayment and said I would return the next day to pay the balance and have them installed. After dropping off Mr. Hellwig, we drove back to the Swiss Club.

For tonight’s dinner, Ursula prepared tomato soup and sausage and a Panettone with tea for dessert. Yummy!

Stats: Miles 140, Expenses $0.80Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 209 - New Tires
26 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
This morning we dropped off Valerie & Chris at the train station. They are exploring the city today.

We stopped by Nestlé where Mr. Hellwig exchanged our traveler checks for the cash we needed to pay for the new tires. Then we drove to the dealer and had the new tires installed. Everything worked out as planned. Oh, what a nice feeling to drive on new tires. It feels like luxury, and the steering wheel turns so smoothly again.

In the afternoon, we also took the train into the city to explore the downtown and main shopping streets of Buenos Aires. We picked up brochures and information about the Argentine National Parks at the Tourist Office.

Then we met with Valerie & Chris and went to watch the movie "Butch Cassidy." Dinner together was at an Italian restaurant in La Boca. The food was excellent, but the atmosphere could have been better.

Stats: Miles 28, Expenses $11.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 210 - Piaget & Bernardo Cohen
27 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
This morning we accompanied Valerie & Chris to the central train station and wished them well for the rest of their journey. Who knows, maybe we will meet them again someday in New Zealand. They were interesting, fun companions to travel with.

Then we visited the Piaget agency, where its owner, Bernardo Cohen, warmly welcomed us. Mr. Cohen took us to Joyeria Ricciardi, the best jeweler in Buenos Aires. He introduced us to the owner, who proudly showcased some of the most beautiful gems and necklaces I had ever seen. Joyeria Ricciardi only carried luxury brands like Piaget, Patek Phillip, and Rolex. They are known for handcrafting high-end custom jewelry.

Bernardo’s wife joined us for dinner at the exclusive restaurant El Ceibol. This place supposedly served the best meat in Argentina. It was indeed exceptional. We had a long conversation with the Cohens. They showed much interest in our travels and future New Zealand and Australia plans. Bernardo is a friend of the Piaget family in Switzerland and knows Camille Pilet and Gedalio Grinberg at the agency in New York where I used to work as Service Director.

We got back to the Swiss Club in El Tigre after midnight with a feeling of pride and having had a successful day.

Stats: Expenses $3.50Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 211 - Shopping Buenos Aires
28 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
Today we got to visit with Bernardo one more time and then thanked him for his kind hospitality and said our goodbyes.

Then Ursula and I went shopping on Avenida, Florida, the equivalent of New York’s Fifth Avenue. We fell in love with the many beautiful leather goods offered for sale. I purchased a nice business briefcase and two wallets. Ursula bought herself a genuine alligator leather belt.

Then we went to Kodak to pick up the photos. However, the quality was horrible, and I refused them. The clerk apologized and told us to come back the next day.

Later on, we returned to the movie theatre and watched French actor Alain Delon. His role was that of a bad boy with his head cut off by the guillotine. That was shocking - I hope we can sleep OK tonight 😂.

We knew Buenos Aires had more to offer but decided to move on the next day.

Stats: Expenses $57.50Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 212 - On the Road again
29 ноября 1974 г., Аргентина
Today, we visited the Planetarium and Zoological Garden. At the Zoo we saw unusual animals we had never seen before. It looked like a cross between a giant rabbit and an Antelope. They are called Patagonian Mara.

Then we picked up the photos from Kodak. They were developed much better this time, but the idiots trimmed off too much paper from the edges. Unbelievable; what a bunch of incompetent people everywhere at Kodak so far.

Then we purchased a Kerosene cooking stove. It wasn’t too long before we were headed South on Route #3, driving toward Bahía Blanca.

We could have stayed much longer in Buenos Aires to explore the city and all the attractions it has to offer. However, we are not interested in large cities and prefer the countryside.

On the outskirts of Buenos Aires, Ursula spotted a butcher shop where we purchased a beef tenderloin.

We camped for the night next to a bridge by a river. The tenderloin dinner was delicious! Ursula is pleased with the new cooking stove but hates the smell of Kerosene.

Stats: Miles 60, Expenses $16.20Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 214 - Bahía Blanca
1 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
We started this trip in New York City precisely seven months ago today. The amazing things we have already experienced on this trip are more than we ever imagined. Let's keep going!

In Bahía Blanca, we wanted to exchange traveler checks. But it was Sunday, and the banks were closed. We stopped by a luxury hotel, and although we weren't guests, they happily exchanged the checks for local currency at a reasonable rate.

I'm so glad this worked out because I had miscalculated the cash we would need, and there weren't any places between Bahía Blanca and Bariloche where we could pay with those checks, let alone credit cards. Now fully loaded with cash, we continued south on Road #3 towards Viedma.

The landscape is flat here but not as lush and green as in the Rio de la Plata region. Here is where the Argentine Pampa begins—dry grass with 4-5 foot high bushes scattered across the plain. There is not much to see from the road beside an isolated farmhouse and cattle here and there.

It helped to get over these monotonous miles by listening to the car radio. The engine ran smoothly. We averaged about 60mph.

We couldn't drive any faster because of strong crosswinds. Driving was exhausting under these conditions without power steering, and I knew it put additional wear on our new tires.

Toward the evening, we found a suitable place to camp by a bridge. The river provided a chance to wash my sweater and stinky socks. Our Büsi is all curled up, sleeping on our bed already. Stats: Miles 245, Expenses $11.25Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 215 - Penninsula Valdez
2 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
I checked the valve clearance and set the ignition timing. Everything looked OK with the engine. And off we drove again through this desolate landscape via San Antonio de Oeste, Sierra Grande, and Puerto Pirámid to the Valdez Peninsula.

We stopped briefly in San Antonio de Oeste for food: 600 g Beef Tenderloin, bread, Salami, butter, toilet paper, fresh veggies, and fruits. Everything for just over $2.00

Peninsula Valdez is a Nature & Wildlife Preserve where we plan to stay for a few days. We are curious about what’s in store for us. A swarm of colored parrots just flew by, and we saw a few wild sheep and Alpaca, or at least they looked it.

We set up camp close to the sea between the dunes, protected from the wind. In an earlier spot, we got stuck in the sand and got free with the help of our winch and pushing. We have to be more careful about that.

Tomorrow we want to visit the North side of the Peninsula. Among other things, we should see penguins, sea lions, seals, and many bird species. The Peninsula is no longer inhabited now, but English Colonists lived here years ago and slaughtered thousands of sea lions and whales for oil.

Somehow fine dust finds its way into the car’s interior, but we haven’t figured out where the leak is.

Stats: Miles 272, Expenses $8.35Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 216 - Punta Norte
3 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
(Ursula) After a late departure, we drove through the hills along the coast and enjoyed the scenery at various lookouts. Heinz took photographs of the landscape and coastal views. This peninsula has no trees, only tall grass and thorny bushes.

An Ostrich family with many little ones ran on the road before us, veered off, and vanished into the bushes. In the early afternoon, we arrived at Punta Norte.

And there, for the first time, we saw free-living sea elephants, sea lions, and seals laying down on the beach. It was a fantastic sight! During the day, they seem lazy and lay in the warm sun. Mornings and evenings are when they become active and feed in the water. We heard them roar and grunt.

We set up camp at Punta Norte and were soon joined by a German couple, Werner and Franziska. They were traveling in a fancy Mercedes Diesel minibus. After dinner, we drank coffee together and talked until midnight about our journeys and experiences.

Stats: Miles 53, Expenses $0.00Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 217 - Looking for Büsi
4 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
(Ursula) We were down by the beach at sunrise this morning to watch the sea lions.

Adults fed, and the young ones splashed and played in the waves. The little ones looked so cute. The skins were like silver/black velvet, and their spherical round eyes were so beautiful. Heinz was able to take some good photographs.

When the first tourists arrived, we were already back at the camper, enjoying the morning sun and having breakfast. We saw Büsi following some tourists and disappearing from our view. We didn’t think much about it.

When he hadn’t returned by the afternoon, we started to worry and went looking for him, but he was nowhere to be found. A tourist found him on the beach and brought him back to us. Büsi is an instinctive hunter who goes after everything that moves—probably got carried away a little today. He never ceases to amaze us. One time he caught and devoured a Salamander!

Late afternoon we were fortunate to see a school of dolphins swimming by.

Then two more travelers with an orange VW camper joined our group. We remember seeing them before at Iguazu Falls.Читать далее
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Day 218 - Penguins
5 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
(Ursula) It's very nice here, but we should move on.

Between Punta Norte and Punta Delgada, we often stopped along the coast and watched the sea lions as they played in the waves and shoved each other off the rocks.

Surprisingly, we also saw Penguins - we thought they only lived near the South Pole. Seeing all those animals living freely in their natural habitat was so wonderful.

Later we spotted two young Germans stuck in the sand with their Renault van. We knew what that felt like and helped them with our shovel tow rope.

Nothing more can be said about the landscape. Off the coast, the Peninsula was arid and hot. When we arrived at the Peninsula Los Pajaros, we met the Germans again with their fancy Mercedes Diesel minibus. We had dinner together and chatted until the bottle of wine was empty, and time to sleep.

Tomorrow we plan a quick visit to Bird Island and continue our journey toward the Andes mountains and Chile.

Stats: Miles 117, Expenses $0.00Читать далее
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Day 218 - Heading West
6 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
(Ursula) At 8:00 AM, the tide was at its lowest, and we could walk to Bird Island. Besides thousands of Seagulls and Albatrosses, we could make out only two other bird species. We saw one bird nest on the ground with light blue speckled eggs inside. The birds were totally unafraid of us, and we could get very close to them and walk freely between them. That was a unique experience!

We are ready to head towards the Andes Mountains and must cross more of the vast Argentine Pampa. We followed Route #3 a bit further south and then turned west onto the unpaved Route #25. From here on, the drive will be brutally hot, dry, and dusty.

We were low on food. When we reached the town of Gaiman, everything was closed for siesta, and we didn’t stop. Some stores were open in the next godforsaken town, but we found nothing else but bread and canned meat. The landscape is so desolate. Nothing grows here in this desert. We are guessing that food items must be brought in from the North.

We found a spot in the shade of a large tree (scarce) on the Chubut River tonight. Large flocks of sheep and horses appeared at dusk to drink water from the river. We bathed in the Rio Chubut to wash off the dust and cool down.

The days have become noticeably longer now. The sun went down just before 9 PM, and an hour later, it wasn’t even completely dark.

Stats: Miles 242, Expenses $12.90Читать далее
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Day 220 - Parque Nacional Los Alerces
7 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
This morning the temperature was still pleasant. We passed Paso de Indios, Pampa de Agnia and Teka. Slowly but surely, the Andes Mountains came into view on the horizon, but there wasn't much else to see but dry, dusty Pampa for an incredibly long distance.

As the road climbed to a higher elevation, the landscape changed. Suddenly there was green grass, horses, and trees again. What a salvation.

Esquel was a tourist resort at the foot of the Andes. The gas tank was filled, and Ursula purchased enough supplies for a week. Then we made our way to Parque Nacional Los Alerces.

Funny story: I used the movie camera to capture the change in landscape and road winding through the mountain valleys. Only to realize this evening that there was no film in the camera. Oh no! I could have slapped myself.

Inside Parque Nacional Los Alerces was an idyllic place on the shore of Lago Futalaufquen. It looked like a postcard from the Swiss Alps. November, December, and January are the summer months here in the southern hemisphere. We heard the pleasant rushing of water from the brook next to us. The lake water was cold, blue, and crystal clear. I'm hoping to catch a few trout tomorrow.

We planned to rest and recover here for a few days. I built us a stone fireplace and started grilling steaks. After the early dinner, we enjoyed the mountains' views and changing light while the sunset.

At 8 PM, it was getting nippy. We moved inside the cozy camper. Ursula is writing a letter to her parents while I'm updating the journal and start writing a letter to Mr. Pilet of Piaget, something I wanted to do since we left Buenos Aires.

Stats: Miles 271, Expenses $16.85Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 221 - Lago Futalaufquen
8 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина ⋅ 🌩️ 82 °F
The weather is cool and overcast—a good excuse to cuddle a bit longer.

While walking along the shore, we met a young couple, Salerno and Anna. They are newlyweds from La Plata on their honeymoon trip. They will pick us up tomorrow for a tour around the lake.

Ursula washed clothes while I tried to build a bridge over the brook with logs and driftwood. After falling into the cold water twice, I realized I was a better Service Manger than a bridge builder. Then I tried fishing for trout, but my reel broke, which was the end. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the beach. The views were amazing.

The newlyweds we met earlier came over for a visit. We had tea and chatted until dinner time. The clouds are breaking up, and a few sun rays are poking through now. It looks like the weather is starting to improve.

Tomorrow should be a great day.Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 222 - The unexpected Happened
9 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
December 9th
(Ursula) Salerno and Anna showed up and loaded us into their 4-Wheeler. First, we stopped at the Park store, then drove to the other side of the lake.

It is summer here, and the flowers are in full bloom. The beautiful colors, in contrast to the fir trees and blue sky, not to mention the floral scent, were mind-blowing. Unlimited Canon photo opportunities. A lovely waterfall at the end of the valley blew us a refreshing misty breeze.

A (closed) hotel was overlooking the lake with fantastic views of the snow mountains behind it. Closed? We just stood there in disbelief. Our companions explained that with the current government in Argentina, people were afraid to invest in an operation inside a National Park. The risk was too significant as the State could revoke its use permit at anytime.

Lunch was grilled salmon at the idyllic cabin of Salerno and Anna. The wine made us sleepy, and we all took a siesta.

But what happened next is crazy. Heinz is still in shock and asked me to describe it in the journal as it was too painful for him.

(Ursula) Before leaving this idyllic spot, we wanted to wash the camper and then go horseback riding. Instead of hauling water from the lake with a bucket, Heinz backed up the car (like we had often done) into the shallow creek bed. Only this time, we didn't realize that the ground was soft.

And right way, the rear wheels sank in. Oh, shucks! We tried to fit stone slabs and driftwood under the wheels, but nothing helped. The VW engine's weight in the back only made things worse.

When Heinz lifted the engine hood, half of the motor was already immersed in water but still running. Then it started sputtering and shut off completely.

Oh shucks! My heart sank. Luckily, Heinz's brain was still half working, and he had the brilliant idea to disconnect the battery terminals to avoid a short circuit.

Then he hiked to a nearby Hacienda to get help.

Half an hour later, he returned with a Gaucho on a horse. The Gaucho fastened his lasso to the front bumper. The horse pulled with mighty strength, but the camper didn't move. Then the lasso broke, and the Gaucho wished us good luck.

It was 5 PM by now. It would be dusk in a few hours, and I noticed dark clouds moving in from the West. What would happen if it starts raining and the creek gets flooded? I agonized over a possible tragedy in the making.

There was nothing we could do. But Heinz didn't give up so quickly. He hiked up to the main road to see if he could find a vehicle or some help.

After an eternity, a heavy 4WD truck with construction workers approached. It stopped for Heinz, and he persuaded them to drive down to the shore and see if they could help.

When they saw our camper with its heck stuck halfway in the water, it must have looked like a funny cartoon, and the entire crew laughed hysterically. But then they quickly got serious and went to work. A heavy chain was attached to the front. The truck pulled, and the camper quickly got free like an empty box of matches. He towed us up to the main road. Man, what a relief!

The crew couldn't help joking about our stupidity while I served them shots of Tequila. We thanked the bossman for the rescue mission, and they drove off, still giggling and laughing. What a gang!

We could only hope the engine didn't take on too much water.

Heinz waited a while for the water to drain, then he dried the ignition points, coil, and distributor, including the spark plug connections. Water came out of the muffler while slowly cranking the engine manually with a wrench. Hopefully, that drained all the water from the cylinders. Next, Heinz reinstalled the Battery. Then he turned on the ignition. The ignition light turned red - that was a good sign.

Now came the moment of truth. Would the engine start? After a few short attempts, the motor began to stutter. And after several other attempts, it finally turned over and started running.

It was the sweetest sound I heard in my life!

Salerno and Anna were leaving for La Plata. We said goodbye and found a National Park campsite nearby where we camped overnight. To our surprise, we found Werner and Franziska parked there as well.

After exchanging the latest news, we relaxed over tea and considered ourselves extremely lucky that the 4WD truck had come to our rescue.Читать далее
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Путешественник
Day 223 - Horseback Riding
10 декабря 1974 г., Аргентина
(Ursula) We finally washed the car, only this time in a more thoughtful way. The inside needed a cleaning as well. Everything I touched had a layer of fine dust from driving through the Argentine Pampa.

Horseback riding was on our program for the afternoon. Being sweaty, I dared to take a quick dip in the lake. Brrrr, that was so cold, but I felt so refreshed afterward. Heinz checked the engine once more to be sure it was OK. The air filter was wet, and he left it out to dry in the sun.

Being unfamiliar with the area, we didn't find a good horse trail. We just followed the main road, then turned toward a bridge leading down to the lake. Unfortunately, the horses were bridge-shy, and we had to find a different way to follow the lake shore. Heinz's saddle was uncomfortable, and the stirrup leather band constantly rubbed against his leg. After barely an hour, he gave up, and we returned to the stable.

The weather was beautiful all day. A strong wind was blowing over the lake. It's evening. Heinz has giant pork chops sizzling on the grill. Argentina has the best meat ever. We are so spoiled!

Stats: Miles 7, Expenses $2.45Читать далее
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