• Jolene Unland
  • Jolene Unland

Barcelona, Granada and Sevilla

Our DIY trip to Spain’s highlights in Barcelona, Granada, and Sevilla. First, Gaudí’s iconic works in Barcelona. In Granada, we’ll see Alhambra’s beauty and Moorish flair. In Sevilla, we’ll see flamenco dancing & a stunning cathedral. Read more
  • Trip start
    February 22, 2025

    Midtown Apartments - Barcelona

    February 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We stayed in Midtown Apartments - Barcelona.

    Midtown Apartments in Barcelona’s Eixample district is a 4-star apartment hotel. It offers 30 modern, fully equipped 1- to 3-bedroom units with a rooftop pool and solarium, blending 19th-century architecture with contemporary design. 

    Eixample was a quiet area and the condo hotel had ample luggage storage for early arrivals, as Darren demonstrates.

    We had a two bedroom, two bathroom apartment with a gorgeous bay window, that we shared with a friend. Our room included fully furnished kitchen and washer.

    A two-bedroom apartment was about €240 per night (weekend rate, including all taxes and fees).
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  • Arriving in Barcelona

    February 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Departed our Transatlantic cruise this morning and arrived at Midtown Apartments in Barcelona.

    Walked around the Mercat de la Boqueira and La Rambla.

    Barcelona’s markets (mercats) date back to medieval times, evolving from open-air trading hubs to grand modernist halls in the 19th-20th centuries. La Boqueria (est. 1836) remains the most famous, while markets like Santa Caterina and Sant Antoni blend tradition with modern design and gastronomy.Read more

  • Barcelona’s Baked Goods Scene.

    February 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Barcelona’s baked goods scene blends Catalan tradition with modern creativity. Iconic pastries include ensaimadas, flaky spiral pastries from Mallorca, and xuixos, sugar-dusted fried dough filled with custard.

    Panellets, marzipan-like almond cookies, are popular in autumn.

    Classic bakeries like Forn Baluard and Hofmann Patisserie offer high-quality croissants, while modern spots experiment with flavors.

    Coca de Sant Joan, a sweet flatbread, is a festive favorite.

    Local markets and granjas (milk bars) serve churros with thick hot chocolate.
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  • Barcelona’s Catalan Modernisme

    February 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Barcelona’s architecture from 1850 to 1930 is defined by the Catalan Modernisme movement, blending Gothic revival, organic forms, and innovative engineering. The most famous architect of this period is Antoni Gaudí, whose masterpieces include the Sagrada Família, an awe-inspiring basilica still under construction; Casa Batlló, known for its skeletal facade and colorful mosaics; and La Pedrera (Casa Milà), featuring undulating stonework and surreal chimneys.

    Other notable buildings include Palau de la Música Catalana, a lavish concert hall by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and Hospital de Sant Pau, a striking modernist complex. Josep Puig i Cadafalch contributed Casa Amatller, blending Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. The Eixample district, designed by Ildefons Cerdà, provided the framework for these architectural gems. Barcelona’s Modernisme period transformed the city into an open-air museum of avant-garde design, fusing nature, craftsmanship, and innovation.
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  • Lunch at Lokal Bar

    February 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Lokal Bar is a celebrated tapas bar and restaurant located at Calle Bruc 118 in Barcelona’s Eixample district. Known for its cozy atmosphere and friendly service, it offers a menu that emphasizes quality over quantity, featuring standout dishes like the truffled Spanish omelette, patatas bravas, and calamari.

    We had octopus and a hamburger.
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  • Barcelona’s Roman Architecture

    February 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Barcelona’s Roman architecture is concentrated in the Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic), where remnants of the ancient city of Barcino (founded in 1st century BCE) are still visible. The most significant Roman site is the Temple of Augustus, whose four massive Corinthian columns from the 1st century BCE stand preserved within a medieval courtyard.

    The Roman walls, originally built in the 3rd and 4th centuries CE, encircle parts of the old town. Sections are integrated into later medieval buildings, particularly around Plaça Nova and Carrer del Sots-Tinent Navarro. The Plaça Vila de Madrid reveals a well-preserved Roman necropolis, with tombs from the 2nd and 3rd centuries CE.

    Beneath the Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHBA), an extensive underground archaeological site showcases Roman streets, houses, workshops, and even remnants of a fish-salting factory. These sites offer a glimpse into Barcelona’s ancient past, seamlessly woven into its medieval and modern urban fabric.
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  • Jardí Botànic, Barcelona

    February 24, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Jardí Botànic, Barcelona. 14 hectares on Montjuïc Hill, showcasing over 1,300 Mediterranean plant species from around the world. Its collections represent ecosystems from Australia, California, Chile, South Africa, and the Mediterranean Basin.

    Park fee is €10 total for two people.
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  • La Sagrada Família, Barcelona

    February 24, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    La Sagrada Família in Barcelona is one of the most iconic and unique basilicas in the world. Designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, its construction began in 1882 and continues today, making it one of the longest-running architectural projects in history. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is renowned for its intricate facades, towering spires, and fusion of Gothic and Art Nouveau styles.

    The basilica’s Nativity Facade, completed during Gaudí’s lifetime, is richly decorated with organic shapes and biblical scenes, symbolizing the birth of Jesus. The Passion Facade, stark and angular, represents Christ’s suffering and death. The ongoing Glory Facade will depict themes of resurrection and eternal life.

    Inside, towering columns mimic trees in a mystical forest, illuminated by vibrant stained-glass windows that create a kaleidoscope of colors. Gaudí’s innovative use of light and geometry transforms the space into a spiritual sanctuary.

    La Sagrada Família is more than a religious monument—it’s an artistic masterpiece and an engineering marvel. Despite Gaudí’s passing in 1926, construction continues based on his vision, funded by donations. Once completed, it will be the tallest church in the world, a lasting testament to Barcelona’s cultural and architectural heritage.

    Entrance fee plus English guided tour (50 minutes) plus tower access is €80 total for two people.
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  • Travel day

    February 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Taking the high speed Renfe train from Barcelona-Santa to Granada via Madrid. We departed at 9:00 and will arrive in Granada around 17:00.

    €225 gets you business class train fare for two adults, lounge access, generous breakfast and lunch, and unlimited beverages ☕️🍻🍷. Also amazing views of Spain’s countryside for more than seven hours at speeds exceeding 300 km/hr (190 mph).

    Barcelona → Madrid → Granada
    Distance: 1,040 km (646 miles)
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  • Granada Lodging - USense Catedral

    February 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Arrived in Granada.

    Our lodging was a quick 20 minute walk through Granada (1.5 km from train station).

    U-Sense Granada Catedral, located in Granada, Spain, is a 3.5-star condo hotel providing comfortable stays with amenities like free Wi-Fi, washer, full kitchen, and Italian shower.

    Our room is €104 per night, including a generous breakfast (included) at their 4-star hotel down the street.

    We picked up some groceries from the Carrefour down the street and made a salad, as we’re not yet acclimated to the late night dining in Spain 😊
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  • Alhambra Palacios Nazaríes

    February 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    The Palacios Nazaríes (Nasrid Palaces) are the heart of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain, showcasing the pinnacle of Moorish architecture.

    Built primarily in the 14th century by the Nasrid dynasty, these interconnected palaces were the royal residence of the sultans of Granada. Their design reflects Islamic aesthetics, emphasizing intricate stucco work, arabesques, geometric patterns, and calligraphy, creating a sense of ethereal beauty.

    Key highlights include the Mexuar, a public audience hall; the Palacio de Comares, featuring the stunning Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles) and the Salón de los Embajadores, where sultans held court; and the Palacio de los Leones, home to the famous Patio de los Leones, with its delicate marble columns and central lion fountain.

    The play of light, water, and symmetry enhances the palaces’ mystical ambiance. Reflecting pools mirror the intricate ceilings, while trickling fountains provide a tranquil soundscape. Despite its grandeur, the palaces maintain an intimate feel, blending power with serenity.

    The Alhambra remains a masterpiece of Andalusian Islamic architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Full access to all Alhambra sites (museums, fortress, gardens, etc) was €38.00 for two people.
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  • Palace of Charles V

    February 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The Palace of Charles V in Granada is a Renaissance-style palace within the Alhambra complex, commissioned by Emperor Charles V in 1526.

    Designed by Pedro Machuca, it features a unique circular courtyard within a square structure, blending classical and Mannerist elements. Though never fully completed, it symbolizes imperial power and contrasts with the surrounding Nasrid architecture.

    Today, it houses the Alhambra Museum and the Fine Arts Museum of Granada, showcasing artifacts from Islamic and Christian Spain. Its grand yet unfinished state reflects the transition between Moorish and Spanish rule in Andalusia.
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  • Alhambra Museum

    February 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The Alhambra Museum in Granada, Spain, houses an extensive collection of artifacts that reflect the rich artistic and cultural heritage of the Nasrid period. Among its notable items are:

    Capitals:
    The museum features a variety of marble capitals, which are the decorated tops of columns. These capitals showcase intricate carvings and designs characteristic of Islamic art from the Nasrid era (13th to 15th centuries). They once adorned the architectural elements of the Alhambra palaces, contributing to the aesthetic grandeur of the complex.

    Vases:
    A highlight of the museum’s collection is the “Vase of the Gazelles,” one of the renowned Alhambra vases. These large Hispano-Moresque ceramics date back to the late 14th or early 15th century. The Vase of the Gazelles stands approximately 135 centimeters tall and is adorned with images of gazelles and intricate arabesque patterns in cobalt blue, white, and gold. These vases were likely decorative pieces displayed within the palatial rooms. 

    Statuary:
    While the Alhambra’s Islamic artistic tradition typically emphasizes non-figurative art, the museum does possess some marble sculptures. Notably, it houses a marble lion that once formed part of a fountain in the Maristan, a hospital established during the Nasrid period. This piece dates back to the 14th century and exemplifies the artistic conventions of the time. 

    These artifacts collectively offer insight into the sophisticated artistry and cultural expressions of the Nasrid dynasty, providing visitors with a tangible connection to the historical splendor of the Alhambra.
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  • Alcazaba

    February 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    The Alcazaba of Granada is the oldest part of the Alhambra, serving as its original Moorish fortress. Built in the 9th century and expanded by the Nasrids in the 13th century, it was a key military stronghold protecting the city. Its massive walls, watchtowers (like Torre de la Vela), and strategic hilltop location provided panoramic views of Granada.

    After the Reconquista in 1492, it was abandoned and later restored. Today, visitors can explore its ruins, including barracks and cisterns, while enjoying breathtaking views of the Sierra Nevada and Albaicín quarter.
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  • Granada Cathedral

    February 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Granada Cathedral, or Catedral de Santa María de la Encarnación, is a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance architecture. Built on the site of a former mosque, construction began in 1523 under Emperor Charles V.

    Its grand façade, designed by Alonso Cano, features intricate Baroque details, while the vast interior boasts soaring columns, a stunning high altar, and impressive chapels.

    The Royal Chapel houses the tombs of Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella. A symbol of Christian triumph after the Reconquista, the cathedral blends Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, making it one of Spain’s most magnificent religious structures.

    Granada Cathedral’s gold and silver artifacts, including the Custody of Arfe and a silver monstrance gifted by Queen Isabella, were largely funded by wealth from Spain’s colonial expansion. While some gold came from local rivers, much of the cathedral’s precious metals likely originated from the Americas, acquired through Spain’s conquests in the 16th century. The influx of gold and silver from the New World, especially from regions like Peru and Mexico, financed religious treasures across Spain. Though less documented than Seville Cathedral’s Incan gold, Granada’s riches reflect Spain’s imperial wealth and its impact on religious art and architecture.

    Cost for Cathedral was €14.00 for two people.
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  • Lunch at GIGI, Granada

    February 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    GIGI Brunch in Granada serves healthy, fresh, and international brunch-style cuisine with a focus on high protein, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options.

    Their menu includes avocado toast, smoothie bowls, pancakes, eggs benedict, fresh juices, specialty coffee, and homemade baked goods. It’s a trendy spot for nutritious and beautifully presented meals.

    Two lunches + sparkling water €27.50.

    After lunch we picked up 20 coffee capsules (€3.95) and a bag of mixed salad (€1.45) for dinner.
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  • Monasterio de Santa Isabel la Real

    February 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    It’s not everyday that you can get “nun buns”.

    Spanish Magdalenas from the cloistered convent in Granada are delicate, citrus-scented sponge cakes with a light, airy texture.

    Made by nuns using a traditional recipe, they feature simple ingredients like flour, eggs, sugar, olive oil, and lemon zest. Baked in fluted paper cups, they rise into golden, domed tops with a subtle crispness. Their flavor is subtly sweet with a hint of citrus, perfect for pairing with coffee or tea.

    Purchased through a rotating wooden turntable to preserve the cloistered nuns’ privacy, these Magdalenas are a hidden gem of Granada, offering a taste of history and devotion in every bite.
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  • Flamenco Dancing

    February 27, 2025, Western Mediterranean ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Granada flamenco dancing is an intense, passionate art form rooted in Andalusian culture, particularly in the historic Sacromonte caves, where the Zambra style thrives.

    Dancers perform with precise, rhythmic footwork, expressive hand movements, and deep emotional storytelling, accompanied by soulful guitar, haunting vocals, and percussive clapping.

    The intimate, dimly lit cave settings heighten the drama, creating an electrifying atmosphere.

    Influenced by Romani, Moorish, and Spanish traditions, Granada’s flamenco embodies raw emotion and centuries of history.

    One hour of flamenco + two glasses of wine for two people was €43.00
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  • Lunch in Granada

    February 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Mostaza Green Burger in Granada is a cozy restaurant known for its high-quality burgers, including gluten-free options.

    Located in a charming area with outdoor seating under orange trees, it offers a relaxed atmosphere. The menu features fresh ingredients, homemade sauces, and vegetarian choices. Customers praise the friendly service, delicious food, and reasonable prices.

    Perfect for burger and salad lovers seeking quality.

    1/3 lb Hamburger, giant quinoa , greens and chicken salad, and sweet potato fries $25.50.
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  • Andalucía Day - Travel Day

    February 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Andalucía Day (Día de Andalucía) is celebrated on February 28th to commemorate the 1980 referendum that granted Andalusia autonomy within Spain. It’s a regional holiday marked by cultural events, Andalusian flags, music, and local festivities. Schools and institutions often host activities honoring Andalusian history, identity, and traditions.

    For us it is a travel day. Granada - Cordoba - Seville on Renfe train €181.00 for two people. Four hours of train time.
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  • Kansas City and Sevilla connection

    February 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The Kansas City street sign in Seville, Spain, is located in the Maria Luisa Park near the Plaza de España. It commemorates the sister city relationship between Kansas City, Missouri, and Seville, which was established in 1969.

    The connection between the two cities is largely due to their shared architectural and cultural influences. The Country Club Plaza in Kansas City was designed in the 1920s with strong inspiration from Seville’s architecture, particularly its tilework, fountains, and towers. The Plaza de España in Seville, a stunning example of Renaissance Revival and Moorish Revival styles, served as a major influence on Kansas City’s Spanish-themed shopping district.

    So, the sign is a symbol of friendship and shared heritage, recognizing the deep architectural and cultural ties between Seville and Kansas City.
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  • U Sense Sevilla Catedral Apartment

    February 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    We are staying in the U Sense Sevilla Cathedral Apartments, an apartment hotel.

    U-Sense Sevilla Catedral’s one-bedroom apartments offer a bright, cozy space with a double bed, living room, fully equipped kitchen, and bathroom.

    Amenities include air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TV, washing machine, and access to a common terrace with views of Seville Cathedral and the Giralda. 

    As we’re staying during Andalusia day and the week leading up to Carnival, Seville is booked up! Our centrally located apartment hotel is €166 per night, including a generous breakfast.
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  • Antiguedades in Sevilla - Tapas Time

    February 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Antigüedades Bar de Tapas, a charming spot in Seville, blends traditional Andalusian flavors with a cozy, historic ambiance.

    Their gazpacho with ham is a refreshing, velvety cold tomato soup, bursting with the bright flavors of ripe tomatoes, peppers, and garlic, finished with a sprinkle of finely chopped jamón for a savory touch.

    The oxtail stew (rabo de toro) is slow-cooked to perfection, yielding tender, fall-apart meat in a rich, deeply flavored red wine and vegetable sauce—an iconic Spanish comfort dish.

    The grilled squid (calamar a la plancha) is simply yet expertly prepared, with a slight char from the grill enhancing its natural sweetness, served with olive oil, sea salt, and a squeeze of fresh lemon for a perfect balance of flavors.

    Well stocked bar.

    All these dishes, plus bread, beer and a gin & tonic €49.00
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  • Itálica Roman Ruins in Santiponce

    March 1, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today we took a 14 mile (22.5 km) round trip walk from Sevilla to Santiponce and back.

    Itálica, located near Sevilla, Spain, was an important Roman city founded in 206 BCE by General Publius Cornelius Scipio during the Second Punic War. Initially a settlement for wounded Roman soldiers, it later became a thriving Roman colony.

    Itálica is famous as the birthplace of two Roman emperors: Trajan (98–117 CE), known for expanding the empire to its greatest territorial extent, and Hadrian (117–138 CE), who consolidated Roman rule and commissioned Hadrian’s Wall in Britain. The city also had ties to Theodosius I (r. 379–395 CE), the last emperor to rule both the eastern and western halves of the empire.

    At its peak, Itálica featured grand infrastructure, including an amphitheater that could hold 25,000 spectators, elaborate mosaics, and well-planned streets. The ruins showcase a blend of Roman engineering and local artistic influences.

    Despite its decline after the fall of Rome, Itálica remains one of Spain’s best-preserved archaeological sites, offering insight into Roman urban life in Hispania.
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