Brisket & Salmon: A Tale

From Kansas City’s jazz and BBQ, we fly to Seattle’s coffee and skyline, then board a ship for Alaska’s glaciers, wildlife, and frontier charm. A journey to and from smoky ribs to icy fjords, blending urban energy with wild solitude and friends. Read more

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Trip start
May 12, 2026
Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
North to Alaska! But first Manhattan.
May 12 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 24 °C
We’re on our way to Alaska, with stops in Manhattan, Topeka, KCMO, and Seattle before boarding Royal Caribbean Voyager of the Seas to cruise to Alaska.

First up is the Kansas Flint Hills viewpoint south of Manhattan, KS on K-99. The marker reads:

At first sight, the tallgrass praire appears to be a monotonous sea of grass, and indeed it is dominated by a handful of tall perennial grasses such as big bluestem, little bluestem, Indian grass, and switehgrass.

However, closer inspection reveals it is a wealth of biological diversity. The grassland, woodland, and stream habitats of Konza contain over 600 species of plants, approximately 300 species of vertebrates (mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, and tishes) and several hundred species of insects, small soil organisms, and aquatic organisms. This diversity is maintained by complex intractions of grazers, fire, topography, soils, and a variable mid-continental climate.

The tallgrass prairte once stretched over most of what is now lowa, Illinois, southern Minnesota, northern Missouri, and the castern portions of the Dakotas, Nebraska, Kansas, and Oklahoma. Most of this region was converted to farmland during the westward expansion in the 1800's. As a result, only a small fraction of the original prairic remains.

The exception is the Kansas Flint Hills where steep slopes and rocky soils defied the plow Within the Flint Hills region, approximately 5 million acres remain as the largest contiguous area of tall grass prairic in North America. Today, the key ecological processes of periodic fire and grazing are important management practices in Flint Hills prairie.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Jong’s Thai Kitchen. Topeka.
May 12 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Jong’s Thai Kitchen in Topeka, Kansas, is a highly regarded, family-run restaurant known for its fresh, made-from-scratch Thai cuisine.

Located at 800 SW 12th St, it has earned a reputation as one of the best Thai restaurants in the area, with dishes like Tom Kha soup, dumplings, and Pad See Ew receiving particular praise for their authentic flavors and quality.

The atmosphere is casual and unpretentious, with a focus on exceptional service. The owners greeted us personally, contributing to a welcoming, community-oriented experience.

Upon walking up to the restaurant at 11:50 it was already full. We learned that due to its popularity, reservations are recommended, sometimes booking weeks in advance, especially for dinner.

Thankfully restaurant offers takeout and dine-in options, with a menu that includes vegetarian choices and a selection of traditional Thai desserts.

Today we ordered vegetable spring rolls and the daily special of Pad Thai with Smokey Kansas bacon 🥓. We enjoyed our lunch in the neighboring park. $29.00 total.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Short-Trip Insurance Approach
May 12 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
People ask what it costs to insure trips 90 days or less, and what plan we have for medical coverage when we don’t have an employer and we travel within the US and internationally.

Our philosophy: Our insurance strategy for trips and health is catastrophic-risk-focused.

For emergency travel medical and expatriation we use Allianz AllTrips Premier for high-stakes protection ($50K emergency medical and $500K evacuation/repatriation).

For our health plan, our Kansas Farm Bureau/UnitedHealthcare Choice Plus plan handles the rest, accepting 40% out-of-network coinsurance in Alaska/Canada as a calculated risk for a short trip since we have emergency coverage through Allianz.

For travel insurance, we strategically use credit cards. These cards cover trip delays, baggage issues, and rental car damage (not applicable on this trip). Our Chase Sapphire Preferred card and Delta Reserve card offer the highest trip cancellation/interruption limits ($10K).

In a nutshell, our approach minimizes insurance premiums while ensuring financial survival in a potential crisis.

Allianz AllTrips Premier Annual Plan: $209.50 each for two 50-something adults.

Kansas Farm Bureau/UnitedHealthcare Choice Plus: $304.00 each for two 50-something adults.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Holiday Inn Kansas City Airport by IHG
May 12 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
We are big fans of sleeping in or near an airport for early morning departures.

Staying overnight near the airport eliminates the risks of early-morning driving (fatigue, low visibility, wildlife encounters) and ensures we arrive rested and on time.

It’s a practical, low-effort way to start (or end) our trips smoothly.

We like Holiday Inn Kansas City Airport by IHG, which is undergoing renovations. Our room is one of the newly renovated rooms. Get a room on the east side (quietest). The hotel has a free shuttle to the airport. Best rates for this hotel are through the
IHG website. $117.47.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Fiorella’s Jack Stack
May 12 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
We had the ‘Cue for Two
Roundup: Pork spare ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, turkey. There was plenty for two, so we had leftovers for breakfast 😋.

Jack Stack Barbecue in the Plaza refers to the Country Club Plaza location of Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue, a renowned Kansas City institution. The Plaza location is at 4747 Wyandotte Street, Kansas City, MO 64112.

The restaurant is part of a chain founded in 1957 by Russ Fiorella, with Jack Fiorella branching off in 1974 to establish Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue.

The Plaza location is particularly popular for its ambiance. It features several dining areas, including a full-service bar and an outdoor patio with views of the Plaza’s Spanish architecture.

The menu is extensive, known for its thick, tomato-based, sweet and molasses-infused sauce, and signature dishes like burnt ends and crispy smoked brisket tips.

‘Cue for Two: $42.00.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
MCI-SEA. New plane problems 🚽
May 13 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
We’re heading to Seattle as it’s the primary US departure port for Alaska cruises.

For this trip, we departed from MCI (Kansas City) on Delta’s nonstop to Seattle. Today’s flight was on a brand-new Airbus A220-300—its first commercial service. We did have to circle back to the gate to have maintenance come on board to enable all the lavatories. Good to have functioning lavs for a four hour flight, I suppose.

Parking the truck at Park 'N Go’s covered lot was effortless. Given hail season in the Great Plains, we chose their facility—13 nights for $96.12. The Holiday Inn is a 20-minute walk away. Pro tip: join their rewards program for the best rates.

Flight: Delta MCI - SEA $196.89 each, business class.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
SEA to Hyatt House Downtown
May 13 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
After reclaiming our bags, we followed signs for Link Light Rail (5 minute walk). It helped to have a photo (attached) of Seattle and the Station names.

There are several kiosks before the Link boarding area to purchase one way tickets. $3.00 (cash/credit/tap) each to Westlake Center.

We boarded the Link easily with luggage.

From Westlake Center we took the Monorail. To access the Monorail, we took an elevator up and purchased tickets (card/tap only) for $4.00 each. Within 10 minutes we were off the monorail, and within a 3 minute walk to our Hyatt Place hotel right next to the Seattle Space Needle.

By using the early check in feature in the Hyatt App, we were able to get into our room by 11:45 am.

Hyatt House Seattle/Downtown: Two nights $0.00. (Transferred 24,000 Chase points to the Hyatt portal to book the two free nights).Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
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Downtown Seattle
May 13 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Downtown Seattle blends urban energy with iconic landmarks. Pike Place Market (since 1907) is the heart: multi-level, bustling with fishmongers, indie vendors, and the original Starbucks. Street performers, craft stalls, and the “gum wall” add grit and charm. Nearby, the waterfront offers ferry views and the Seattle Aquarium.

We enjoyed walking (and having a couple of good IPAs) with our friend Colby through Capitol Hill, east of downtown. It is is the city’s countercultural hub. Music venues (e.g., The Crocodile), vintage shops, and dive bars line Pine and Pike Streets. It’s LGBTQ+-friendly, with historic gay bars and Pride events.

Coffee culture thrives—espresso bars and indie bookstores (like Elliott Bay) cater to locals. The neighborhood balances nightlife with residential pockets, tree-lined streets, and views of the Space Needle.

Both areas reflect Seattle’s mix: market tradition, artsy rebellion, and a love for coffee, music, and the outdoors.Read more
Traveler 🤮
5/17/26Reply
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
To Pier 91
May 15 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
We washed all our laundry at Hyatt House ($2.00 wash, $2.00 dry) while enjoying the generous free Hyatt House breakfast.

We then walked to Whole Foods to pick up some sparking water for our cruise. We can each carry on one 750 bottle of wine and 12 cans of non alcoholic drinks. The Whole Foods is near a park with some beautiful rhododendrons (state flower of Washington).

From Hyatt House hotel, it’s about a 10 minute drive to Pier 91 where we board our cruise ship.

The hotel offers a shared shuttle for $12.50 each (cash). Instead we’ve reserved an UberXXL with friends so we don’t have to adhere to the hotel’s schedule. Using UberOne (subscription free with Delta Reserve Card) we avoid surge pricing so it’s about $8.00 each for a private ride to the Pier.

We arrived at the port at 11:00 and were on the ship at 11:20. We don’t use the porters, so we quickly found a quiet sitting area to relax until our room is ready at 1:00.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
7 Night Alaska Adventure Cruise
May 15 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
We’re taking Royal Caribbean Voyager of the Seas ship from Seattle to Alaska and back.

The Royal Caribbean Voyager of the Seas 7-day Alaska cruise starts May 15, 2026, departs and returns to Seattle. The itinerary includes stops in Juneau, Skagway, Endicott Arm & Dawes Glacier, and a call in Victoria, British Columbia, before returning to Seattle.

This is a round-trip cruise focused on Alaska’s wilderness, glaciers, and historic ports.

We’re traveling with over 85 friends from FINtalks.

FINtalks is a community created by Amberly Grant, focused on bringing together like-minded people in the Financial Independence (FI) community.

The group meets regularly to share knowledge, experiences, and strategies related to personal finance, real estate investing, entrepreneurship and achieving financial independence from traditional employment. FINtalks also organizes in-person events, including trips, for members to connect and learn from each other.

Our cruise is $3759.78 for a couple in a Junior Suite with balcony. We anticipate our gratuities to total $259.00. WiFi for the cruise is $64.84 per person.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Entering the Inside Passage
May 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
We passed Port Alexander in the Inside Passage around 3:30 am. We’re moving deeper into the Alexander Archipelago.

Kuiu Island: A large, rugged island in the Alexander Archipelago, known for its dense forests, steep fjords, and dramatic coastline. It’s part of the Tongass National Forest and is uninhabited except for a few remote cabins.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Juneau, Alaska
May 17 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 5 °C
We arrived at 12:15 in Juneau and were off the ship by 12:30.

Juneau’s population is estimated at 31,632 in 2026. Cruise tourism is the economic backbone, generating over $375 million in direct spending and supporting nearly 3,850 local jobs in 2026

The city enforces a daily cap of 16,000 passengers on weekdays and 12,000 on weekends, with a 5-ship-per-day limit.

Main income sources are tourism, government (e.g., airport, hospital, harbors, school district, University of Alaska Southeast), fishing, forestry, and mining (with processed fish, ore, and forest products as key exports).

The median household income is $101,661 in 2026. And sales tax revenue from cruise industry is more than $18 million dollars.

To proceed to meet up with independent guides/excursions in the Juneau port, most meet at the Goldbelt Tram (pictured).Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Juneau Whale Tours
May 17 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 6 °C
We took a small-group excursion with Juneau Whale Tours (family-run, locally owned) and observed humpback whales, the Mendenhall Glacier, and Nugget waterfalls.

We left the port by bus and within 20 minutes we were at the whale watching dock. We proceeded quickly and efficiently to the boat and got instructions on whale watching.

In May, humpback whales in Alaska are primarily feeding in the nutrient-rich waters of the Inside Passage and other coastal areas. This is the start of their summer feeding season, as they migrate from their winter breeding grounds in warmer waters (like Hawaii or Mexico) to Alaska to take advantage of the abundant food supply—mainly krill and small fish such as herring.

May marks the beginning of their time in Alaska for the year, where humpback whales will spend the summer and early fall bulking up on food before migrating back south in the autumn.

After whale watching we took a bus to the Mendenhall Glacier.

The Mendenhall Glacier is a 13.6-mile-long (22 km) glacier in the Mendenhall Valley, about 12 miles (19 km) from downtown Juneau, Alaska. It originates from the Juneau Icefield and flows into Mendenhall Lake, which then drains into the Mendenhall River.

Price for six hour excursion: $199 each.

After the excursion we stopped at Alaskan Brewing Public House for IPAs, a halibut sandwich with fresh corn salad, and a halibut salad with pine nuts. $108.00 total.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Chilkoot Charters & Tours
May 18 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C
Today we took an eight hour bus and train tour Chilkoot Charters Yukon Rail and Bus Adventure.

We traveled from Skagway through British Columbia into the Yukon along the historic Klondike Highway and the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad.

Aboard a vintage narrow-gauge train, we climbed nearly 3,000 feet, passing through dark tunnels and over towering wooden trestles, with sweeping views of the Alaskan mountains and the legendary "Trail of '98."

In the Yukon, we explored the Carcross Desert—the "world's smallest desert"—with its unique sand dunes formed by ancient glacial lakes, and marveled at Emerald Lake, its waters a vivid green-blue from sunlight reflecting off white glacial marl on the lakebed.

We stopped at Caribou Crossing Trading Post, which offered a chance to visit the Yukon Wildlife Museum, a husky dog mushing camp, and a BBQ lunch.

Along the Klondike Highway, we spotted eagles, mountain goats, glacier-fed waterfalls, and a giant sourdough cinnamon roll 😋 all set against dramatic panoramic scenery.

$270.00 each. 8 hours.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
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Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier
May 19 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
The Endicott Arm is a fjord in the Fords Terror Wilderness area of the Tongass National Forest, Southeast Alaska. It stretches about 30 miles (48 km) from the Sumner Strait to the Dawes Glacier, its terminal glacier.

The fjord is a classic U-shaped valley, carved by glacial activity during the Pleistocene period, with steep granite cliffs rising sharply from the water—some exceeding 3,000 feet (900 m). The walls were streaked with waterfalls cascading from hanging valleys, a result of tributary glaciers that once fed the main ice stream.

The Dawes Glacier is a temperate valley glacier, a glacier that exists in a region where the ice is at or near its melting point, allowing for dynamic flow and calving.

The Dawes Glacier originates in the Coast Mountains, specifically from the Juneau Icefield, a massive icefield spanning 1,500 sq mi (3,900 sq km) and feeding over 40 glaciers, including the Mendenhall and Taku.

The glacier flows downhill under its own weight, driven by gravity and the pressure of accumulating snow in the upper accumulation zone. It typically moves at rates of 1–3 feet per day in the lower section.

The Dawes Glacier is an active tidewater glacier, meaning it terminates in the sea (Endicott Arm). Calving events - where chunks of ice break off the glacier face - are frequent and dramatic, often producing icebergs that float in the fjord.

Blue ice is dense, ancient ice often appears blue due to the absorption of red and yellow light wavelengths, with blue light scattering back to the observer.

Crevasses are large cracks on the glacier surface, formed by differential stress as the ice moves over uneven terrain.

Moraines are accumulations of rock debris (lateral, medial, or terminal) carried along the glacier’s sides or surface, deposited as the ice melts.

Harbor seals often haul out on icebergs near the glacier face, using them as platforms for resting and pupping. The fjord also supports salmon, halibut, and various seabirds (e.g., cormorants, guillemots). The surrounding cliffs host mountain goats and, occasionally, brown bears foraging at low tide.Read more
Traveler So beautiful
5/24/26Reply
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Butchart Gardens
May 21 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
At Butchart Gardens, we experienced a 55-acre botanical garden featuring five main themed gardens: the Sunken Garden (a transformed limestone quarry with vibrant flower beds and water features), the Rose Garden (showcasing over 250 varieties of roses), the Japanese Garden (with serene rocks, tranquil water, and traditional architecture), the Italian Garden (formal and symmetrical, with fountains and statues), and the Mediterranean Garden (highlighting unique plants from arid regions).

The grounds also include magnificent fountains like the Ross Fountain, the Dragon Fountain, and the Sturgeon Fountain, as well as totem poles, sculptures, and seasonal displays such as spring bulbs and autumn foliage. The gardens are known for their meticulous design, year-round beauty, and historical significance as a National Historic Site of Canada.

To access the gardens as a DIYer, first walk out of the Victoria port and go about a block left or right. Call an Uber (about $50.00 CAD each way).

Entrance to the gardens was $41.00 CAD each. We had prepaid, printed tickets. We had three friends who went with us that were able to buy tickets at the gate.

Good fast casual cafe (The Blue Poppy) inside. Salads for about $15.00 CAD each.

We took an Uber back to the Fairmont Hotel in downtown Victoria and explored the city for a few hours. Downtown Victoria is about 20 minutes walk back to the cruise ship dock.Read more
TravelerOur eldest son and his wife live in Victoria. Butchart Gardens has a magnificent Christmas display.
5/25/26Reply
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Return to Seattle
May 22 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C
We departed the ship at about 7:45 am.

We then met up with “Houseless Wanderers” Mike and Sylvia. We met them on our first transatlantic cruise in 2025. They are a fully nomadic retired couple who travel on cruise ships (mostly for free) and by land. There’s not really a place to meet up on the Seattle docks so we headed to the closest Starbucks ($10.00 Uber ride).

After coffee we checked in to the Hyatt House Hotel downtown (free with 15,000 Chase points).

We had lunch at Cactus South At Lake Union. Roasted pepper guacamole and giant brisket burrito ($35.00).

We then headed to the Museum of History & Industry (MOHAI) and learned about Seattle history and innovation ($25.00 each).

There’s a Whole Foods between our hotel and the museum, so we picked up some rotisserie chicken and salad to make in our room for this evening and tomorrow’s lunch ($19.00).Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Seattle Aquarium
May 23 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
The Seattle Aquarium is a premier marine conservation and education center located on Pier 59 along Elliott Bay in downtown Seattle.

Opened in 1977, it has since expanded to include Piers 59, 60, and the new Ocean Pavilion, all accessible with a single ticket ($50.00 each).

The aquarium is dedicated to the marine life of the Pacific Northwest and the Coral Triangle, housing over 800 species across these well-designed, regionally focused exhibits.

Window on Washington Waters: A large display showcasing native fish species and the diverse marine life of Puget Sound and the Salish Sea.

Life on the Edge: Touch tanks where visitors can interact with sea stars, urchins, and sea cucumbers, replicating the tide pool ecosystems of Washington’s outer coast and inland sea.

Crashing Waves: A 40-foot wave tank simulating the intertidal zone, featuring sea cucumbers, snails, limpets, and other adapted marine life.

The Ring of Life: A 12-foot-high glass "donut" surrounding visitors with moon jellies.

The Ocean Pavilion: A world-class space with a 500,000-gallon tank for sharks, stingrays, and hundreds of species from the Coral Triangle of Indonesia.Read more
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Brisket & Salmon: A Tale
Seattle to Kansas City
May 23 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
After the Aquarium, we returned to the Hyatt House hotel to retrieve our bags for our early evening flight.

We decided to skip the monorail this time as the weather was great. It was a 25 minute walk from Hyatt House to the light rail stop 50.

We took the light rail train to the airport (about 30 minutes, $3.00 each). We enjoyed some snacks in the Delta lounge (complementary with Delta Reserve Card) before boarding our nonstop flight from Seattle to Kansas City ($191.00 each, business class).

We arrived early in Kansas City and took the complementary IHG shuttle to our hotel Holiday Inn Kansas City Airport by IHG. We were in our room by 11:30 pm ($215.72 includes breakfast).

At 8:00am we walked up the street to pick up our truck at the Park ‘N Go and then had our breakfast and did laundry (complementary as the Holiday Inn is under renovations).Read more
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Trip end
May 24, 2026