• Jolene Unland
  • Darren Unland
  • Jolene Unland
  • Darren Unland

Galicia and Asturias May 2025

Galicia and Asturias offer wild coasts and green mountains. Known for seafood, cider, Roman ruins, Romanesque churches, cool climates and natural beauty, Read more
  • Trip start
    May 1, 2025
  • Bodegas Martín Códax

    May 2, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Bodegas Martín Códax, established in 1985 in Cambados, Galicia, is a cooperative winery named after a medieval Galician troubadour. Renowned for its Albariño wines, it sources grapes from over 550 families across approximately 1,400 coastal parcels in the Salnés Valley, part of the Rías Baixas DO. The winery emphasizes sustainable practices and offers a range of wines—including its flagship Albariño, Burgáns, and Organistrum—that reflect the region’s maritime influence and granite-rich soils.

    Four glasses of their flagship wines, cheese and crackers. €14.00.  
    Read more

  • A Fonte do Viño Restaurant

    May 2, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Nestled in the heart of old town Cambados, A Fonte do Viño offers an authentic Galician seafood experience. Specializing in fresh catches from the nearby Ría de Arousa, the restaurant’s menu featured delicacies like clams a la marinera, tender octopus, and vibrant salads. Their homemade cheesecake provided a delightful finish to the meal. With attentive service and a curated selection of local Albariño wines, A Fonte do Viño stands out as a must-visit for seafood enthusiasts exploring the Rías Baixas region. Read more

  • Poñer a xesta

    May 2, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    In Galicia, placing yellow broom flowers on cars and homes on May Day is a folk tradition for protection and good luck. Rooted in Celtic spring festivals, it symbolizes fertility, renewal, and the warding off of evil spirits, reflecting the region’s deep connection to nature and ancient customs.Read more

  • Bodegas Granbazán

    May 2, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Tucked into the lush Salnés Valley near Cambados, Bodegas Granbazán offered an elegant immersion into the world of Albariño.

    Founded in 1981, the winery is housed in a striking neoclassical building adorned with blue tiles and surrounded by its own vineyards.

    During our guided tour, we explored the estate and learned about the winery’s pioneering role in Galician viticulture. The tasting featured four of Granbazán’s flagship wines—Etiqueta Verde, Etiqueta Ámbar, D. Álvaro de Bazán, and Limousin—each showcasing a distinct expression of Albariño, from crisp and youthful to oak-aged complexity.

    Paired with local seafood and cheese tapas, the wines revealed their signature saline finish and vibrant acidity. This experience beautifully captured the harmony between terroir, tradition, and winemaking innovation that defines the Rías Baixas region.

    Guided tour and tasting in English for two: €40.00. 15% off wines after tour.  
    Read more

  • Percebes (aka Goose Barnacles)

    May 3, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Percebes—also known as goose barnacles—are one of Galicia’s most prized delicacies. They cling to wave-battered rocks along the Atlantic coast, especially in areas like Costa da Morte (Coast of Death), where the sea is particularly rough. Their prestige and high price come from both their rarity and the extreme danger involved in harvesting them.

    Percebes are a type of crustacean, related to crabs and lobsters. They look somewhat alien: a leathery, dark “neck” (the peduncle) topped with a calcified shell that resembles a dragon’s claw. The edible part is inside the neck, which when peeled reveals a tender, briny, slightly chewy flesh with an intense oceanic flavor—often described as tasting like the sea in its purest form.

    “Percebeiros” (barnacle gatherers) are often considered the most daring of seafood harvesters. They risk their lives scaling wet, jagged cliffs and timing their movements with the crashing tides. Many have died doing this work. The most prized percebes are found in locations nearly inaccessible by boat or foot, making them a textbook example of extreme terroir in food.

    In Galicia, percebes are usually cooked with great simplicity - boiled briefly in seawater or very salty water (about 1–2 minutes), then served plain with no sauce.

    The ritual of eating them includes peeling back the “skin” with your fingers, sometimes at the cost of a briny splash to the face. They’re a social food, often shared among friends with Albariño wine.

    Percebes are especially popular during festive times like Christmas and local festivals. The price can reach hundreds of euros per kilo at peak demand.

    They’re often served as appetizers. We had them with salad, white beans and ham, and monkfish stew.
    Read more

  • Mexican Restaurants in Spain

    May 4, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Mexican restaurants in Spain can vary widely. What to expect in Spain?

    Europeanized version of Mexican food has less spice. Chiles are toned down significantly, and dishes tend to be mild unless you specifically request “picante” or “muy picante”. You’ll be able to taste the quality of the food.

    Flour tortillas dominate, while corn tortillas are rare and often imported. You’ll also see whole grain flour tortillas.

    Black beans and pinto beans may be replaced with red or white beans.

    Avocados and guacamole are common, but guacamole may be bland or more like a dip than a fresh mash.

    Cilantro (coriander) is used sparingly, if at all, and many Spaniards dislike it.

    Service can be more formal than in Mexico or the U.S., with a sit-down meal structure and a slower pace—it’s Spain, after all.

    You’ll rarely find Oaxacan moles, Yucatán specialties, or true street tacos.

    Tips if You’re Seeking Authenticity:

    Ask if the restaurant is Mexican-owned or operated.

    Look for dishes that aren’t loaded with cheese—a sign of Tex-Mex influence.

    Request extra heat if you like spice. Ask if they have “salsa picante casera” (homemade hot sauce).

    Look for ingredients like epazote, huitlacoche, or mole negro as signs of deeper regional cooking.

    Me Vale Madre, Cangas, Spain. €30.00. One quesadilla and six tacos. Two sparkling waters.
    Read more

  • Praia de Barra

    May 4, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We spent two days relaxing at Praia de Barra.

    Praia de Barra is a secluded and pristine beach located near Cangas do Morrazo in Galicia, Spain. Nestled within the protected Costa da Vela area, it offers a tranquil escape for nature lovers and those seeking serenity.  
    The beach boasts fine white sand and is backed by lush pine forests and sand dunes, creating a picturesque landscape. Its location provides stunning views of the nearby Cíes Islands. The surrounding hills and greenery enhance the sense of seclusion, making it an ideal spot for relaxation. 

    Beach Characteristics
    • Approximately 750 meters long and 30 meters wide.
    • Sand: Fine, white sand with occasional seashell fragments.
    • Water Conditions: Moderate waves and cooler Atlantic waters, typical of the region.
    • Accessibility: Accessible by foot or car, with nearby parking areas.   

    Praia de Barra is renowned as one of Galicia’s premier nudist beaches. It has a longstanding tradition of naturism, attracting visitors who appreciate its open and accepting atmosphere. While primarily frequented by nudists, the beach maintains a respectful environment for all visitors. 

    Praia de Barra offers a peaceful retreat away from crowded tourist spots. Its natural beauty and tranquil setting make it a favorite among locals and travelers seeking a more intimate beach experience.
    Read more

  • Menduiña Craft Brewery

    May 5, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Menduiña is a distinguished craft brewery located in Cangas do Morrazo, Galicia, Spain.

    Founded in 2008 by Alberte Fernández Pérez and Valeria, the brewery was inspired by their experiences in Patagonia, Argentina, where they developed a passion for craft beer. Upon returning to Galicia, they established Menduiña with the vision of reviving ancient Galician brewing traditions and integrating Celtic cultural elements into their beers .   

    Menduiña emphasizes natural ingredients and sustainable brewing methods. The brewery utilizes local resources, including Galician water, and incorporates traditional ingredients such as bay leaves, elderflowers, and homegrown hops. Their brewing process is characterized by slow fermentation, respecting natural rhythms, and a commitment to environmental sustainability, including the use of clean energy and rainwater collection systems .

    Menduiña’s dedication to quality and innovation has earned them recognition in various beer competitions. Their “María Soliña” smoked brown lager, named after a historical Galician figure, is among their most acclaimed beers. Additionally, their “Demo Neghro” extra stout received a bronze award at the 2015 Spanish National Beer Championship . The brewery’s offerings have been featured in rankings of top Galician beers, highlighting their contribution to the region’s craft beer scene .
    Read more

  • Monte do Facho Archeological Site

    May 6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Near Praia de Barra, the Monte do Facho archaeological site offers a profound glimpse into Galicia’s Celtic and Roman past.

    Situated atop a hill in Donón, this site features the remains of a castro—an ancient fortified settlement—dating back to the Iron Age. The location provides panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Cíes Islands.  

    Monte do Facho was also a prominent religious center, dedicated to the deity Berobreo, associated with death and the afterlife.

    Archaeological excavations have uncovered 174 votive altars (aras) inscribed with dedications to Berobreo, making it one of the most significant sanctuaries of its kind in the Iberian Peninsula. These findings indicate that the site served both as a place of worship and as a strategic lookout, evidenced by the presence of a Roman-era guard post.

    The Celtic ruins at Monte do Facho, near Praia de Barra and Cangas, date back to the Iron Age, specifically around the 3rd century BCE. The site was later reused during the Roman period, particularly from the 1st to 4th centuries CE, as a religious sanctuary.
    Read more

  • Monastery of San Pedro de Rocas

    May 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The Monastery of San Pedro de Rocas, located in Esgos, Ourense, Galicia, is renowned as the oldest monastic complex in the region and one of the earliest in Spain.

    Founded in the 6th century, it exemplifies the transition from solitary hermitic life to communal monasticism in Galicia. Its unique architecture, carved directly into natural rock formations, includes chapels, tombs, and living quarters, reflecting the austere lifestyle of early Christian hermits.  
    Throughout its history, the monastery underwent several restorations, notably under King Alfonso III in the 9th century. It later became affiliated with larger monastic institutions like San Salvador de Celanova.

    Despite suffering damage from fires and eventual secularization in the 19th century, the site remains a significant cultural and historical landmark. Today, visitors can explore its rock-hewn structures and learn about its rich heritage at the on-site interpretation center.  
    Read more

  • Santa María de Xunqueira de Espadanedo

    May 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The Monastery of Santa María de Xunqueira de Espadanedo, nestled in the heart of Galicia’s Ribeira Sacra region, stands as a testament to centuries of monastic life, architectural evolution, and spiritual devotion.

    Founded in the 12th century, the monastery’s origins trace back to a Benedictine establishment dedicated to Saint Julian.

    By the late 1100s, it transitioned into the Cistercian order, aligning with the neighboring Monastery of Montederramo. This affiliation brought about a period of prosperity, bolstered by royal patronage from monarchs like King Fernando II and Alfonso IX, who endowed the monastery with lands and privileges, facilitating the construction of its impressive Romanesque church.

    Architectural Highlights

    Cloister: Reconstructed between the 16th and 17th centuries, the cloister showcases Renaissance elegance with its two-story arcades. A distinctive feature is the solar timekeeping system, comprising sundials that regulated the monastic schedule.

    Façade and Tower: The church’s façade and bell tower were rebuilt in the early 19th century, reflecting Neoclassical influences. 
    Read more

  • Parada de Sil

    May 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Parada de Sil, located in Galicia’s Ribeira Sacra region, offers some of the most breathtaking views of the Sil River Canyon.

    This area is renowned for its dramatic landscapes, where the river has carved deep gorges into the terrain, creating a haven for nature enthusiasts and photographers alike.Read more

  • Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil

    May 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Nestled within the chestnut forests of Merilán, the Monastery of Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil is a prime example of Galician rural Romanesque architecture.

    Established in the 10th century, it later became a priory under the Monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil. The church, constructed between the 12th and 13th centuries, features a Latin cross plan with three semicircular apses, a single nave, and a prominent bell tower integrated into the northern side of the cloister.

    The entrance portal is adorned with three archivolts resting on columns with intricately carved capitals, and a rose window graces the upper façade.

    Inside, remnants of 16th-century mural paintings and Baroque altarpieces reflect the monastery’s historical significance.

    Although monastic life ceased in the 19th century, the site remains a cultural landmark, accessible via a scenic trail from Parada de Sil.
    Read more

  • Ribeira Sacra

    May 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Sober, nestled in Galicia’s Ribeira Sacra region, offers a captivating blend of viticultural heritage and breathtaking landscapes.

    The area is renowned for its “heroic viticulture,” where vineyards cling to steep terraces along the Sil River canyon, producing distinctive wines and offering stunning vistas. 

    Situated in Doade, within the Sober municipality, Bodegas Regina Viarum exemplifies the region’s winemaking tradition. The winery specializes in indigenous grape varieties such as Mencía and Godello, cultivated on precipitous slopes that demand meticulous hand-harvesting techniques.

    A short distance from the winery lies the Mirador de Soutochao, also known as the “Mirador del Vendimiador.”

    This overlook provides sweeping views of the Sil River gorge and the terraced vineyards emblematic of the region’s viticulture. A prominent granite sculpture of a grape harvester, or “carreteiro,” honors the labor-intensive winegrowing practices.
    Read more

  • Lugo

    May 8, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Lugo, in Galicia, Spain, is home to the best-preserved Roman wall in the world. Built in the late 3rd century CE to defend the Roman city of Lucus Augusti, the wall stretches over 2 km and features 71 towers and 10 gates. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and we walked its entire circuit.

    Near the wall, especially by Porta Miñá and in the old quarter, we found vibrant street art. Lugo has embraced urban creativity, with murals and graffiti often reflecting Galician culture, humor, and resistance to central authority—blending old and new identities.

    The large church adjacent to the wall is the Catedral de Santa María, founded in the 12th century. It combines Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, and Neoclassical elements.
    Read more

  • Cabo Vidio

    May 9, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Cabo Vidio, near the village of Oviñana in Asturias, Spain.
    The cliffs of Cabo Vidio rise about 80 meters above sea level, composed of quartzite and slate formations sculpted over millions of years by relentless oceanic erosion.

    Beneath the cape lies "La Iglesiona," a vast sea cave accessible only at low tide.
    The area is part of the "Ruta de los Miradores," a scenic walking route that connects several lookout points, offering diverse perspectives of the rugged coastline.
    Read more

  • Santa María del Narco

    May 10, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Santa María del Naranco is a remarkable example of pre-Romanesque architecture located on the slopes of Mount Naranco, just outside Oviedo in Asturias, Spain.

    Originally constructed between 842 and 850 AD during the reign of King Ramiro I, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest surviving buildings from the Asturian kingdom.

    Though today it is known as a church, Santa María del Naranco was originally built as part of a royal palace complex—likely serving as a ceremonial hall or throne room (aula regia). Some recent research even suggests it may have been intended as a royal mausoleum. It was only converted into a church in the 12th century after the adjacent palace chapel, San Miguel de Lillo, began to deteriorate.

    The building has a simple rectangular plan and two stories.
    The lower level likely served as a crypt or storage/service area.

    The upper level features a vaulted ceremonial hall with transverse arches and open arcaded porches on both ends that frame views of the surrounding countryside.

    Decorative elements include carved medallions with animals and human figures, stylistically influenced by Visigothic and Byzantine motifs. A prominent Greek cross—symbol of the Asturian monarchy—features in the ornamentation.

    During the 17th and 18th centuries, additions like a sacristy and bell gable (espadaña) were made. These were removed in the 20th century to restore the building’s original form. Today, Santa María del Naranco is considered a masterpiece of early medieval architecture and a key symbol of Asturian cultural identity.
    Read more

  • San Miguel de Lillo

    May 10, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Situated approximately 100 meters from Santa María del Naranco, both San Miguel de Lillo were commissioned by King Ramiro I of Asturias in the 9th century as part of a royal complex.

    While Santa María del Naranco was initially constructed as a royal palace and later converted into a church, San Miguel de Lillo was intended as the royal chapel from its inception .  

    San Miguel de Lillo was consecrated in 848 and originally featured a basilica layout with three naves. However, due to structural failures in the 12th or 13th century, only about one-third of the original building remains today. The surviving portion includes the vestibule and the initial sections of the three naves, showcasing remarkable architectural elements such as barrel vaults and intricately carved stone lattice windows . 

    Both Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo are recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites under the designation “Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of the Asturias,” highlighting their historical and architectural significance.
    Read more

  • Cathedral of San Salvador, Oviedo

    May 10, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    The Cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo (Catedral de San Salvador de Oviedo) is architecturally fascinating, especially for its stonework, which spans pre-Romanesque, Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles, layered over centuries of construction.

    Pre-Romanesque Remnants (9th Century); parts of the original stone church built by Alfonso II survive in the Holy Chamber (Cámara Santa), especially in the crypt of San Leocadia.

    The ashlar masonry is thick, precisely cut limestone, reflecting Asturian engineering skill before the Romanesque period.

    Capitals are rudimentary but distinct, with early experimentation in carving — animal and geometric motifs are visible.

    Romanesque Stone Elements
    include Romanesque additions (11th century), with rounded arches, column clusters, and some of the best stone vaulting from that era in Asturias. Stone latticework, capitals with foliate designs show transitional design from pre-Romanesque to Romanesque styles.

    San Salvador’s stonework showcases Asturian power and taste, shifting from fortress-like early forms to increasingly intricate and expressive carving.
    Read more

  • Archaeological Museum of Asturias

    May 11, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The Archaeological Museum of Asturias in Oviedo has a great collection of region’s history, from the Paleolithic era to the Middle Ages. It is housed in the 16th-century Benedictine monastery of San Vicente and is free. A hefty free spiral notebook in English was extremely helpful.

    Key highlights included…

    Prehistoric Artifacts: Displays feature tools and art from Neanderthals and early Homo sapiens, including discoveries from the El Sidrón cave, providing insights into early human life in Asturias. 

    Neolithic to Metal Ages: Exhibits showcase the transition to agriculture and metallurgy, with artifacts like megaliths and mining tools illustrating societal advancements. 

    Castro Culture: The museum presents the fortified settlements of the Iron Age, highlighting their unique architectural and social structures. 

    Roman Influence: Artifacts from the Roman period, including mosaics and inscriptions, demonstrate the integration of Asturias into the Roman Empire.

    Medieval Period: The collection includes items from the Kingdom of Asturias, such as the altar stones from San Miguel de Lillo and Santa María del Naranco, reflecting the region’s religious and cultural development. 

    The museum’s well-curated exhibits provide a deep understanding of Asturias’ rich archaeological heritage.
    Read more

  • Asturiana de la Montaña beef

    May 12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Asturiana de la Montaña, also known as the Casina, is a small, hardy cattle breed native to the mountainous areas of Asturias, northern Spain.

    Adapted to rugged terrain and poor pastures, these animals are prized for their resilience, calm temperament, and ability to thrive in extensive, low-input systems. Traditionally used as dual-purpose cattle, today they are mainly raised for high-quality beef with a distinctive flavor tied to their pasture-based diet.

    Their coat ranges from light to dark reddish-brown, and they often have lyre-shaped horns. It is officially recognized as an endangered breed.

    Casina beef is protected under the “Ternera Asturiana” PGI (Protected Geographical Indication), reflecting its cultural and culinary importance.
    Read more

  • Santa Cristina de Lena, 9th century

    May 12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Santa Cristina de Lena is a 9th-century pre-Romanesque church located in Lena, Asturias, Spain.

    Constructed in 852 during the reign of King Ramiro I, it exemplifies Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture.

    The church features a unique Greek cross floor plan, a single rectangular nave with a barrel vault, and four annexes at each facade center. Notably, the elevated presbytery is separated from the nave by a triple-arched iconostasis, incorporating reused Visigothic elements, including marble columns and latticework.

    Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, Santa Cristina de Lena stands as a testament to early medieval religious architecture in the Iberian Peninsula.  
    Read more

  • Fuente de Foncalada

    May 13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The Fuente de Foncalada in Oviedo is a pre-Romanesque fountain built in the 9th century during the reign of King Alfonso III of Asturias.

    It is the only surviving civil work of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture and was part of the city’s early medieval water supply system.

    Constructed with large ashlar blocks, the structure resembles a small chapel with a gabled roof and horseshoe arch entrance. Inside, spring water flows through a stone channel.

    Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the “Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of the Asturias,” the fountain is both a rare example of early medieval hydraulic engineering and a testament to the kingdom’s architectural legacy. It remains a quiet historical site tucked between modern streets.
    Read more

  • Ruta del Cares

    May 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Ruta del Cares is a renowned hiking trail in northern Spain’s Picos de Europa National Park.

    Spanning approximately 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) between Poncebos (Asturias) and Caín (León), the path traverses a dramatic limestone canyon carved by the Cares River. This gorge separates the park’s western and central massifs and showcases striking karst formations shaped by glacial and fluvial processes.  

    Constructed between 1916 and 1921 to service a hydroelectric canal supplying the Camarmeña-Poncebos power station, the trail was later expanded from 1945 to 1950.

    It features tunnels, bridges, and ledges etched into sheer rock faces, offering hikers breathtaking views of towering cliffs and the river below. Today, it’s among Spain’s most frequented mountain routes, celebrated for its accessibility and natural beauty. 
    Read more