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Second Cities and Third Spaces
  • Jolene Unland
  • Jolene Unland

Second Cities and Third Spaces

Second Cities, Third Spaces. Powerful cities that shape/d how empires actually worked.
They were and are hubs, borderlands, faith crossroads, and money centers where goods and ideas move, and so did/does power between rulers and cultures. Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    1. mars 2026
    Jolene UnlandSecond Cities and Third SpacesReisende
    All Aboard on Renfe
    All Aboard on Renfe1Barcelona PortFish tiles on Sapphire PrincessBarcelona PortLeaving the Port TerminalRenfe lounge

    Barcelona 🚢 🚆 to Córdoba

    1. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The Port of Barcelona is a major Mediterranean hub, housing both cruise and cargo operations. As Europe’s second-busiest cruise port, it handled 3.6 million passengers in 2024, with terminals capable of accommodating up to 7,000 passengers at once.

    The port is reducing its seven cruise terminals to five by 2030, prioritizing sustainability and quality over volume, and investing in shore power to cut emissions. A new 54,000 m² terminal, opening in 2027, will serve the largest ships, while daily capacity is being lowered from 37,000 to 31,000 passengers to address overtourism.

    On the cargo side, Barcelona ranks as Spain’s third-largest and Europe’s ninth-largest container port, handling nearly 3.9 million TEUs and 69.7 million tonnes of freight in 2024.

    It specializes in diverse cargo—containers, liquid/dry bulk, vehicles - with deep drafts (16.5m) for mega-ships. Trade with China is especially robust, accounting for 25% of container traffic. Recent upgrades include €332.5 million in infrastructure, automation, and green initiatives like onshore power for ships.

    We arrived in the Port of Barcelona around 5:00 am. By 8:30 am we’d had a relaxed breakfast and were off the ship and had cleared immigration and customs.

    Since we took off our own luggage, we were able to get right into a taxi (€21.50) and get to Barcelona-Sants train station by 8:45 am, cleared security quickly and were in the Renfe lounge by 9:00 am.

    Barcelona-Sants is the city’s main railway hub, serving high-speed (AVE), regional, and international trains. It connects to Madrid in 2.5 hours, France via TGV, and metro lines, with modern amenities and direct access to the city center.

    Spain’s high-speed AVE trains will wisk us from Barcelona-Sants to Córdoba in about 6 hours, covering 850 km at up to 310 km/h.

    We expect some disruption due to repair efforts due to the January 2026, Spain’s deadliest train accident in over a decade near Adamuz, Córdoba. A high-speed train derailed, crossed onto the adjacent track, and collided head-on with an oncoming Huelva-bound train. The crash killed 46 people and injured over 120.

    Spain boasts Europe’s most extensive high-speed network and ranks among the world’s top three for speed, punctuality, and comfort—only Japan and China rival its efficiency and coverage.

    Business class ticket (includes meals) €111.30 each.    Les mer

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    EM21 Apartamentos, Córdoba

    1. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We’re staying at EM21 Apartamentos (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️), self catering apartments in the quiet San Basilico area of town.

    These are newer self-catering fully furnished apartments with washing machine, kitchen and cleaning.

    €82.00 per night, including taxes.

    We also went on a grocery run to Carrefour Express, the only grocery store in town on a Sunday evening.    Les mer

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    Why Córdoba?

    2. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Córdoba is widely considered one of Spain’s great second cities. While it’s not as large or economically dominant as Madrid or Barcelona, it’s historically and culturally significant—once the capital of Al-Andalus and a medieval intellectual powerhouse.

    Today, it’s a mid-sized city (around 320,000 people) with outsized cultural heritage, making it a quintessential "second city": influential, livable, and often overlooked by mainstream tourism.

    Unlike Madrid’s bustling energy or Barcelona’s tourist throngs, Córdoba offers a quieter, more intimate encounter with Spain’s past.

    Its crown jewel is the Mezquita-Catedral, a breathtaking fusion of Islamic and Christian architecture: a 10th-century mosque with a Renaissance cathedral rising from its center, embodying the city’s Moorish, Jewish, and Christian heritage.

    The labyrinthine streets of the Jewish Quarter (Judería) are lined with whitewashed courtyards, hidden plazas, and the scent of orange blossoms, revealing a city that thrived as a medieval center of learning and tolerance.

    The Guadalquivir River, once a Roman trade route, still winds through the city, bordered by ancient bridges and waterwheels.

    Córdoba’s patios—UNESCO-listed for their riotous spring blooms—are private sanctuaries of tile and greenery, a tradition dating back centuries.

    The cuisine is earthy and authentic: salmorejo (chilled tomato soup), flamenquín (pork roll), and wines from nearby Montilla-Moriles.

    Unlike Spain’s coastal resorts, Córdoba’s charm lies in its inland soul, where the temperature soars in summer but the pace remains unhurried.

    For the traveler weary of crowds, Córdoba delivers history without the hype. It’s a place to wander at dawn through empty alleys, stumble upon a hidden bañuelo (Arab bath), or sip fino sherry in a taberna where locals outnumber tourists.

    The nearby Sierra Morena mountains offer rugged hikes, while the city’s festivals—like the Courtyards Festival or the Battle of Flowers—root you in Andalusian culture.

    Córdoba is Spain’s intellectual heartland, where philosophers like Seneca and Maimonides once walked.    Les mer

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    Hiking in Cordoba and Sierra Morena

    2. mars, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We hiked 10 miles in and near Córdoba with our friend Benedikt and his son Lucas.

    The small mountain range just north of Córdoba is called the Sierra Morena. This range forms the southern boundary of the Meseta Central (the central plateau of the Iberian Peninsula) and stretches across several provinces, including Córdoba.

    The Sierra Morena is known for its rugged landscapes, dense forests, and rich biodiversity, including a variety of wildlife and plant species.

    Within the province of Córdoba, the Sierra de Hornachuelos and Sierra de Cardeña y Montoro are prominent sub-ranges of the Sierra Morena, both offering excellent opportunities for hiking, wildlife observation, and enjoying the natural beauty of the region.

    After our hike we stopped by Dia supermarket to pick up some groceries.    Les mer

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    Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba

    3. mars, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, known in English as the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, stands as one of the most architecturally significant and historically layered buildings in the world.

    Its origins trace back to Roman times, when the site was likely occupied by a temple dedicated to Janus, the Roman god of transitions. Following the Visigothic conquest, a Christian basilica, the Basilica of Saint Vincent, was constructed on the same spot in the 6th century.

    The building’s most transformative period began in 784 AD, when the Umayyad emir Abd al-Rahman I ordered the construction of a grand mosque on the site, marking the beginning of its Islamic era. Over the next two centuries, successive Umayyad rulers expanded the mosque, resulting in its iconic hypostyle hall—a forest of over 850 double-tiered columns made of jasper, onyx, marble, and granite, topped with striking red-and-white striped arches. The mihrab, a masterpiece of Islamic art, features intricate gold mosaics and calligraphic inscriptions, reflecting the zenith of Moorish craftsmanship. The mosque’s design, with its vast prayer hall and open courtyard (the Patio de los Naranjos), embodied both religious function and political power.

    In 1236, after the Christian Reconquista, the mosque was consecrated as a Catholic cathedral. The most dramatic alteration came in the 16th century, when a Renaissance-style cathedral nave was inserted into the center of the mosque, complete with a grand altar, choir stalls, and a dome. This controversial addition, authorized by Emperor Charles V, fundamentally altered the building’s original symmetry but created a unique fusion of Islamic and Christian architecture. The structure also incorporates a minaret, later converted into the bell tower, and a series of chapels adorned with Baroque and Gothic elements.

    Today, the Mezquita-Catedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its extraordinary blend of styles. Its columns, horseshoe arches, and decorative motifs—including geometric patterns and Arabic script—remain intact, offering a tangible record of Córdoba’s layered history. The building’s dual identity as both mosque and cathedral continues to spark debates about cultural preservation and religious coexistence, but it undeniably stands as a testament to the city’s role as a crossroads of civilizations.

    We experienced a palpable sense of history, walking through spaces that have served as places of worship for Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, and Christians alike.

    Tickets for timed entry €18.00 each.    Les mer

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    Roman Bridge Córdoba

    3. mars, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Built by the Romans in the early 1st century BC, the bridge originally connected the city to the rest of the Iberian Peninsula and was a key part of the Via Augusta, the main Roman road from Rome to Cádiz.

    Only two of its original 16 arches remain (the 14th and 15th from the northern end), with the rest reconstructed over centuries, especially during the Islamic period. The bridge spans the Guadalquivir River and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its historical and architectural significance.

    It’s a short walk from the Mezquita and offers views of the cathedral and the Calahorra Tower at its southern end. The bridge is pedestrian-only.    Les mer

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    Triumph of San Rafael

    3. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The monument Triumph of San Rafael, located just north of the Roman Bridge in Córdoba.

    This Baroque-style column was erected in the 18th century and is topped by a statue of the Archangel Raphael, the city’s guardian. The base of the column is elaborately decorated with reliefs and smaller statues, representing various saints and allegorical figures tied to Córdoba’s history. It stands as a prominent landmark near the bridge and the Puerta del Puente.Les mer

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    Bell Tower Tour

    3. mars, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The Bell Tower Tour in Córdoba lets you climb the 54-meter-high bell tower of the Mezquita-Catedral, offering panoramic views of the city and its historic center.

    Originally a minaret, it was converted into a bell tower after the Reconquista.

    We saw the famous Patios de Córdoba, the Guadalquivir River, and the Sierra Morena mountains.

    Timed entry €3.00 each.    Les mer

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  • Jolene UnlandSecond Cities and Third SpacesReisende
    Renaissance-era Palace of the Páez de Castillejo
    Renaissance-era Palace of the Páez de CastillejoCorinthian capital, 2nd century ADRare 1st century stacked glass urn, metal urn holder1st century AD theatre maskBacchus and friend, 1st century ADPegasus mosaic, 2nd century ADRoman fish/horse/chicken mosaicAmphorae, 1st century ADLocal god, 2nd century ADDaniel, 4th century ADVisigoth column and capital, 6th century ADArabic capitals, 9th and 10th century ADArabic capitals 10th, 11th century ADPlant motif, 10th century AD10th century AD dishRoman mosaicRestaurante Umaueyon shared starter €18.00

    Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba

    4. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The Archaeological and Ethnological Museum of Córdoba (Museo Arqueológico y Etnológico de Córdoba) is a free public museum located in the historic center of Córdoba, Spain, housed in the Renaissance-era Palace of the Páez de Castillejo.

    Its collections span from prehistoric times through the pre-Roman, Roman, Visigothic, and Islamic periods, with a focus on the region’s rich cultural layers.

    Highlights include Roman mosaics, Iberian and Phoenician artifacts, and a significant Islamic section featuring items from the Caliphate period, such as ceramics, coins, and architectural fragments. The museum also showcases ethnographic exhibits on traditional Andalusian life, including tools, textiles, and folk art.

    The museum’s layout follows a chronological and thematic approach, making it easy to trace Córdoba’s evolution as a crossroads of civilizations.

    After the museum, we joined our friend Keith for lunch at Restaurante Umaueyon, which serves Arabic food mostly from Morocco.    Les mer

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    Fried eggplant with molassesPork dish

    Madinat al-Zahra

    5. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The Madinat al-Zahra archaeological site, just outside Córdoba, was the de facto capital of al-Andalus in the 10th century, built by Caliph Abd al-Rahman III as a symbol of Umayyad power and administrative center.

    Constructed between 936 and 940 CE, it showcased advanced urban planning, opulent architecture, and hydraulic engineering—reflecting the sophistication of Islamic rule in Iberia.

    The city featured palatial complexes, mosques, gardens, and workshops, all supplied by an intricate aqueduct system. Its design integrated political, religious, and residential functions, with lavish reception halls (like the Salón Rico) adorned with marble, gold, and intricate stucco carvings.

    Excavations reveal a planned city with terraced levels, roads, and public baths, though only about 10% has been unearthed.

    Political instability led to its abandonment and looting by the 11th century, leaving ruins that lay buried for centuries. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, offering insight into the cultural and technological zenith of the Umayyad dynasty. The on-site museum displays artifacts—coins, ceramics, and decorative fragments—that underscore its historical significance.

    Notable for its blend of Islamic and local influences, Madinat al-Zahra represents a pivotal chapter in Mediterranean history, where art, science, and governance converged. The site’s ongoing excavation continues to reshape understanding of medieval Islamic urbanism.

    Round trip bus to site: €2.60 per person.

    Museum and visit to site: €4.50 each

    Lunch: €14.90 each, including beer.    Les mer

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    Molino de la Albolafia

    6. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The old wheel in the river at Córdoba is known as the Albolafia, or Molino de la Albolafia. It is a medieval noria (waterwheel) located on the Guadalquivir River in the historic center of Córdoba, Spain.

    The wheel dates back to at least the 9th or 10th century and was originally built to lift water from the river to irrigate the gardens of the Emir’s palace and other parts of the city.

    It is a notable example of Islamic engineering and was later used for milling flour.

    The wheel was dismantled in 1492 on the orders of Queen Isabella, who found its noise disruptive, but it has since been restored and remains a popular historical attraction near the Roman Bridge and the Alcázar.

    Visitors often mention seeing a colony of feral cats lounging on the wheel and in the surrounding ruins, and some speculate that the cats help control the rodent population. The wheel’s large, stable surfaces and the warmth of the sun also make it an attractive place for them to rest.    Les mer

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    Roasted beetrootCarrotSteak TartareBeef cheek

    Regadera Restaurant

    7. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Regadera is a well-regarded restaurant located in the historic center of Córdoba, Spain, right on the riverbank near the Mezquita. It has not been awarded a Michelin star, but it is recognized by Michelin as one of the city’s standout dining spots for its fresh, contemporary cuisine and attentive service.

    The restaurant cuisine is crafted by chef Adrián Caballero, who trained at the Culinary Arts School in Toledo and has worked in kitchens across Spain. The menu features a thoughtful selection of dishes and wines, with a focus on artisanal preparation and local ingredients.

    The atmosphere is described as a blend of modern and rustic, with decor inspired by Córdoba’s famous patios. It’s a popular spot for special occasions and is noted for its welcoming ambiance and high-quality food.

    We had the homemade sourdough bread service (three types of sourdough), olive oil infused butter, two glasses of wine from the region, and a bottle of sparkling water, in addition to our four courses:

    1)Roasted Beetroot, goats cheese foam, pumpkin seeds and basil gel.
    2) Carrot infused with miso and ginger with lime sour cream, pine nuts and sumac
    3) Aged beef steak tartare, cured yolk, black garlic emulsion, and pickled daikon
    4) Beef cheek with bone marrow demi-glace. Parsnip, radish and king oyster mushrooms.

    In total, €87.50 including gratuity.    Les mer

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    HummusEggplant with preserved lemonChicken pastelChicken and preserved lemon tagine

    La Perla Azul, Moroccan Restaurant

    8. mars, Spania ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    After a 1.5 hour walking tour of downtown Córdoba (€25 each) we had a late lunch at the Moroccan restaurant near our lodging.

    La Perla Azul, nestled in Córdoba’s historic San Basilio district, is a halal Moroccan restaurant inspired by the blue city of Chefchaouen. Its tranquil patio and two salons, adorned in soothing blues and lush greenery, offer an immersive escape.

    The menu features authentic Moroccan dishes—tajines, couscous, pastela, and mint tea—adapted to local palates with balanced spices. Owned by a Moroccan family, the restaurant is celebrated for its warm hospitality, attention to detail, and serene ambiance, complete with flowing water and Arabic music.

    Open for breakfast through dinner, it’s a quiet retreat for those seeking genuine flavors and cultural charm, without alcohol but with generous portions and handcrafted desserts.

    Two starters, three main courses and tea for three €72.00.    Les mer

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    El Cardenal Flamenco

    9. mars, Spania ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We entered a small, atmospheric space—with exposed stone walls and dim lighting—where the focus was entirely on the raw, emotional power of flamenco. This is renowned tablao flamenco—an intimate venue dedicated to authentic flamenco performances. Located in the historic Jewish Quarter, it occupies a 17th-century building, blending Andalusian charm with raw artistic energy.

    The performance unfolded in three parts: the singer (cantaor) whose voice carried the weight of cante jondo (deep song), expressing sorrow, joy, or defiance; the guitarist (tocaor), whose intricate fingerwork provided both rhythm and melody; and the dancer (bailaor), whose precise, passionate footwork and gestures embodied the music’s intensity.

    The artists fed off each other’s energy, with moments of improvisation that made the performance feel unique and spontaneous. The crowd was mostly French high school music students on a field trip with their Andalusian instructor, drawn to the venue’s reputation for unfiltered, high-caliber flamenco.

    The intimacy of the space meant we could see the sweat on the dancers’ brows and hear every nuance of the singer’s voice—no microphones, no frills.

    Ticket plus drink €25.00 each. 1.25 hours.    Les mer

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    First, coffee
    First, coffee1The sheep

    GR48 Cerro Muriano to Córdoba

    10. mars, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Today we walked 10 miles on the GR48 from Cerro Muriano.

    The hike unfolded as a quiet, experience through the Sierra Morena’s natural landscapes. The trail, part of the Camino Mozárabe, is marked in connection to the historic Camino de Santiago.

    The route wound through rolling hills and wooded areas, where the only company was a few sheep grazing and locals out for exercise in the light rain. The atmosphere was peaceful, with the soft patter of rain and the earthy scent of the countryside, a far cry from the bustle of urban life.

    Cost: €2.60 each for bus tickets to Cerro Muriano.    Les mer

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    Tostada
    Tostada1Wild asparagusDanger. Fighting bulls. 🐂Subdivision entranceCórdoba city wallsIglesia de San Lorenzo in Córdoba 13th centuryIglesia de Santa María Magdalena in Córdoba 13th centuryIglesia de Santa María Magdalena in Córdoba 13th century

    Camino Mozárabe

    11. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Today we walked 11 miles of the Camino Mozárabe between Cerro Muriano and Córdoba.

    Darren and I took the bus to Cerro Muriano (€1.30 each, 45 minute bus ride) and stopped for some coffee con leches, a jamon, tomato and queso tostada for second breakfast, and a footlong pork loin sandwich with cheese to go for lunch (€10.00 total).

    We met four other hikers, including two ladies from Wilmington, North Carolina.

    We picked some wild asparagus before lunch.

    The city walls of Córdoba, Spain, date back over 2,200 years. The original Roman walls were built in 206 BC, making them among the oldest surviving structures in Córdoba. Over the centuries, these walls were expanded and modified by subsequent rulers, including the Moors and Christians, with significant reconstructions occurring in the 8th, 14th, and 16th centuries.

    After entering the city walls, we passed several 13th and 14th century churches.    Les mer

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    Caracoles (Snails) in Córdoba

    11. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Córdoba, Spain, is renowned for its caracoles - snails, typically the Helix aspersa species, are a seasonal delicacy, most commonly harvested in spring.

    The snails are usually collected from the countryside after rain, when they are most plentiful and tender.

    In Cordoban cuisine, they are most famously prepared in a dish called caracoles en salsa or caracoles a la cordobesa. The preparation involves simmering the snails in a rich, aromatic sauce made with garlic, onions, tomatoes, bay leaves, and a blend of spices such as paprika and cumin. White wine or sherry is often added to deepen the flavor, and the dish is finished with a touch of vinegar or lemon juice for brightness.

    The snails are slow-cooked until tender, allowing the flavors to meld, and are traditionally served in their shells or in small clay dishes, accompanied by crusty bread to soak up the sauce.

    Snails 🐌 prepared four ways and two beers €11.00.    Les mer

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    Pijotas (sardines)embutidos de cazaMejillones a la MarineraCalamariRape (monkfish) with mussels and shrimpTurbotSan Sebastián–style cheesecakemost renowned restaurants in AndalusiaHandwritten wine menuHandwritten wine menuHandwritten wine menu

    Restaurante Astoria Casa Matías Lunch

    13. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Casa Matias (often referred to as Restaurante Astoria Casa Matías) in Córdoba is a well-regarded establishment known for its traditional Cordoban and Andalusian cuisine. The restaurant is praised for its high-quality, homemade dishes made from premium ingredients, generous portion sizes, and meticulously prepared desserts.

    Signature dishes include tender oxtail (rabo de toro) and partridge sausage, both highly recommended by patrons.

    The ambiance is cozy, elegant, and intimate, with attentive service and a vintage interior that adds to the dining experience. It’s considered a hidden gem, especially for those seeking authentic, homestyle food in a refined setting.

    We ate with two friends. We shared seven dishes, four beers and a bottle of Albariño wine for €127.00 total, including gratuity.    Les mer

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    Arena
    ArenaGrooming time1Original 16th century stablesSponsored by animal food companyShow prepShow prepShow prepThe arena and stablesGrumpy cat staffed the bar

    Córdoba Royal Stables

    14. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    At Córdoba’s Royal Stables, we attended the “Passion and Spirit of the Andalusian Horse” show, featuring the Purebred Spanish Horse (Pura Raza Española).

    The performance highlighted classical and Andalusian riding disciplines: dressage, garrocha (pole work), cow herding, and amazon (female equestrian) routines. Riders demonstrated precision group formations, and individual tricks, often synchronized with flamenco dancers.

    The Andalusian horses—bred for agility, intelligence, and stamina—executed piaffes, passage, and airborne caprioles, showcased their controlled power and responsiveness. The Royal Stables, founded in 1570 by Philip II, were originally built to develop this breed for royal and military use. Today’s show horses descend from these lines, selected for temperament and athleticism.

    Riders, typically trained in both classical and regional styles, guide the horses through exercises that emphasize collection, flexibility, and partnership.

    Seating was tiered; premium tickets (€23.00 each) provided central positions and pre-show arena access for photography.    Les mer

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    Synagogue of Córdoba

    14. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The Synagogue of Córdoba, located in the historic Jewish Quarter of Córdoba, Spain, is one of the best-preserved medieval synagogues in the country.

    Built in 1315, it reflects Mudéjar architectural style, blending Islamic and Christian influences.

    The small, rectangular building features intricate stucco decoration, Hebrew inscriptions, and a women’s gallery.

    It survived the Reconquista and later served as a hospital and chapel before being restored in the 19th century.

    Today, it stands as a testament to Córdoba’s rich multicultural past, alongside its famous mosque and Christian monuments. A free visit offers a glimpse into Sephardic Jewish heritage in Andalusia.    Les mer

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    2
    21

    Casa Andalusí 12th-century house

    14. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Casa Andalusí is a restored 12th-century house in Córdoba’s historic Judería district.

    This house museum is designed to evoke the ambiance of Córdoba during the Caliphate era, with a central patio featuring a tinkling fountain—a classic element of Andalusian architecture.

    Notably, its basement preserves ancient Roman mosaics, along with a large amphora and other pre-Muslim artifacts, offering a tangible link to the city’s layered history.

    The entrance fee is modest (€4.00), and the visit provides a quiet, intimate glimpse into both Moorish domestic life and the Roman foundations beneath the city.    Les mer

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    Córdoba’s alleyways and courtyards

    14. mars, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Córdoba’s alleyways and courtyards are architectural and cultural landmarks, shaped by Roman, Islamic, and Christian influences.

    Courtyards (Patios):
    Originated as a Roman adaptation for climate control, later refined by Islamic architects to create private oases. The design centers on an open courtyard (patio) with greenery and water features, providing coolness and light in the hot, dry climate.

    Two main types exist: private family courtyards and communal “Casa de Vecinos,” where multiple homes share a central patio.

    Architectural elements include horseshoe arches, intricately carved columns, and decorative tiles—hallmarks of Moorish design that persist today.

    Alleyways
    The Judería (Jewish Quarter) is a labyrinth of narrow, whitewashed streets, such as the iconic Calleja de las Flores (“Alley of the Flowers”), lined with blue flowerpots and geraniums. These alleys reflect Andalusian and Islamic urban planning, designed for shade and ventilation.    Les mer

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    15 miles on the Camino Mozárabe

    15. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We walked 15 miles on the Camino Mozárabe south of Córdoba. It is a historic, quiet Camino de Santiago route that starts in Andalucía (choice of Almería, Málaga, Granada, or Jaén) and passing through Córdoba to Mérida, where it joins the Vía de la Plata.

    Covering over 600km to Mérida, it traverses diverse landscapes, olive groves, and whitewashed villages.

    One advantage of walking the “wrong way” on a couple of these stages this week is that we got to ask hikers what they thought so far, and are adding this trek to our list of trails to do.    Les mer

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    Don't mind us driving by...

    Oops, We Jaén-ded Up 🚙🤷‍♂️

    16. mars, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We picked up a rental SUV at the bus station in Córdoba and set out for a quick lunch stop in Jaén.

    We had a picnic lunch at Mirador de la Cruz, perched above the city, offering sweeping views of Jaén’s olive groves and the distant mountains.

    Below, the "big church" is the Cathedral of Jaén, a Renaissance masterpiece declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built between the 16th and 18th centuries, it blends Gothic and Renaissance styles, with a grand façade, soaring towers, and a richly decorated interior.

    Driving in Jaén is difficult, we accidentally drove an area that passed right by the church, which is forbidden to all traffic except city workers. Thank goodness it was the beginning of siesta, so only a few teenagers were laughing as we drove by quietly. Google Maps actually successfully navigated us out of the square and down a series of increasingly narrow alleys until we popped out in another pedestrian only area and we navigated to real road a block away.

    Rental SUV: €465.00 for 14 days    Les mer

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