Via de la Plata

Follow us for 50 days on the Via de la Plata, a historic Roman trade route spanning ~1,000 km from Sevilla to Santiago de Compostela. Known for its solitude and extreme weather, it traverses arid landscapes, rolling hills, and Roman ruins. Read more

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Trip start
March 6, 2025
Via de la Plata Traveler
Via de la Plata in 50 days
March 6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
The Via de la Plata (Silver Route) is one of the oldest and most historically significant routes in Spain, dating back over 2,000 years.

It stretches from Seville (Hispalis) to Astorga (Asturica Augusta) and was originally a Roman road that facilitated military movements, trade, and communication between southern and northern Spain.

Today, it serves as an alternative pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.

Origins and Roman History

The Via de la Plata was built in the 1st century BCE during the Roman conquest and consolidation of Hispania. It connected Hispalis (Seville) to Asturica Augusta (Astorga), linking the Guadalquivir Valley in the south to the gold mines of Las Médulas in the north.

The road was part of a larger network facilitating the movement of troops, goods (gold, silver, olive oil, wine), and cultural exchange between the Roman provinces.

The name “Via de la Plata” does not come from silver (plata in Spanish) but likely from the Arabic word balata, meaning “paved road.”

Medieval and Moorish Influence

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the route continued to be used by the Visigoths (5th–8th centuries) and later the Moors (8th–11th centuries), who controlled much of Spain.

During the Reconquista (8th–15th centuries), Christian armies used the Via de la Plata to reclaim territory from the Moors. The route played a crucial role in the expansion of the Kingdoms of León and Castile.

Modern Revival

The Via de la Plata was largely forgotten until the 20th-century revival of the Camino de Santiago.

In recent decades, it has been re-signposted and restored as a hiking route. Today, it is one of the longest and least crowded Caminos, known for its solitude, rich history, and diverse landscapes.

Key Roman Cities and Sites Along the Route

1. Seville (Hispalis) – One of the most important Roman cities in Hispania.
2. Itálica – Birthplace of emperors Trajan and Hadrian; impressive Roman ruins.
3. Mérida (Emerita Augusta) – The most significant Roman city along the route, with a well-preserved theater, aqueduct, and bridge.
4. Cáceres – A medieval city with Moorish and Roman influences.
5. Salamanca – A UNESCO World Heritage city with Roman origins and Spain’s oldest university.
6. Zamora – Known for Romanesque architecture and historical significance.

Challenges and Characteristics

Longest Camino route in Spain (~1,000 km from Seville to Santiago).

Limited infrastructure, making it physically demanding.

Less commercialized than other Caminos, offering a more authentic experience.

Rich Roman and medieval history, with many ruins, bridges, and roads still intact. 😃Read more
Enjoying this so much! any blisters? What about Port wine? [Janice Burdick]
3/10/25Reply
TravelerThanks! No blisters yet (Day 6 starts in a few hours). No port wine on this trip. We do walk through some of Spain’s Ribera del Guadiana DO wine region today on our way to Zafra.
3/11/25Reply
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Via de la Plata Traveler
Sevilla to Guillena - 22 km
March 6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Our first day on the Vía de la Plata (22 km) took us from Sevilla to Guillena, blending Roman history, Moorish architecture, and Andalusian agriculture.

Historical & Architectural highlights included:

Modern bridges (Puente del Alamillo) and remnants of Roman and Moorish influence;

Santiponce (8 km in) offered the Roman city of Italica, (which we visited last week) birthplace of emperors Trajan and Hadrian, with a grand amphitheater and mosaics;

And Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo with Mudejar, Gothic, and Baroque styles. In front of the Monasterio, there was a post indicating only 997 km to go to Santiago .

Guillena featured whitewashed houses and the spring return of storks.

Agriculture along the way included Olive groves, citrus orchards, wheat fields, and fava beans.

In Guillena, we had dinner, which included Cocido de tagarninas – a chickpea stew.

Dessert was fresh oranges from nearby groves.

Lunch: Jamon, cheese, multigrain and pepper sandwiches €13.80

Bus from Sevilla to Santiponce €3.40 for two.

Lodging at Hostal Bar Frances in Guillena. €42.00

Three course meals for two, including three beverages €19.90. The main courses were fried cuttlefish and a pork loin.Read more
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Guillena to Castiblanco de los Arroyos
March 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
18.5 km. High 63 F / 17 C

Today’s stage from Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos on the Vía de la Plata took us through rolling Andalusian countryside.

Leaving Guillena, the route followed a mix of rural tracks and quiet roads, gradually ascending into open farmland and dehesa, the iconic Spanish oak-studded pastureland. These dehesas are home to Iberian pigs, grazing freely under ancient holm and cork oaks, contributing to the region’s famous jamón ibérico.

The landscape shifted from olive groves and farmland to more rugged, wooded terrain as we approached Castilblanco de los Arroyos.

The town itself, with Moorish roots, was a strategic stop on ancient trade routes. Historically, the area played a role in Spain’s Reconquista, and today, it is a gateway to the Sierra Norte Natural Park.

The dehesas between Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos are part of Spain’s Mediterranean Diet UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. These vast oak-studded landscapes are a sustainable agroforestry system dating back to Roman times, blending farming, forestry, and livestock grazing.

Dehesas are essential for jamón ibérico, as free-ranging Iberian pigs feed on acorns (bellotas) from holm and cork oaks, giving the ham its world-renowned flavor. They also support rich biodiversity, including the endangered Iberian lynx and imperial eagle.

No rain today and no flooding observed.

Cortado and Cafe con Leche: €2.40

Lunch: €6.20. Dried salmon, avocado, and whole grain bread sandwiches. MAS grocery

Dinner: €19.90. Caesar salads, goat cheese, gazpacho, beer, Greek yogurt, jamon, 3 L sparkling water. Carrefour Express.

Hotel Castillo Blanco €55.00. Clean, spacious, and warm!Read more
TravelerThe distant you walked, is that automatically tracked and reported by this app? This is my first time using it.
3/7/25Reply
TravelerWe use the distance from our FitBits for the walking distance.
3/8/25Reply
TravelerI love that you’re sharing the birds, plants, history and food! Thank you!
3/8/25Reply
TravelerThanks! It’s the part we like best :)
3/8/25Reply
Traveler Love the pigs out in the field!!
3/8/25Reply
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Via de la Plata Traveler
Onwards to El Real de la Jara
March 8, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
20 km. High 53 F / Low 43 F.

There was over an inch of rain overnight and until 11:00, with a lot of standing water.

Upon recommendation of the Hotel in Castilblanco, due to heavy rain, we were going to take a taxi to Almaden de la Plata. When the taxi driver did not arrive, the hotel owner took us and another hiker to Almaden de la Plata.

We then walked from Almaden de la Plata on the paved bike route that runs parallel to the Camino route.

We experienced two heavy rainfalls of less than 15 minutes, and even had some sleet!

This is prime dehesa country, where Iberian pigs roam under holm oaks, fattening on acorns for the famed jamón ibérico de bellota.

We saw some olive trees and some almond trees though not as dominant as further south.

History & Culture

Almaden de la Plata gets its name from Arabic “al-maʿdan” (mine), hinting at its mining past. The Romans and later the Moors worked silver and other metals here.

El Real de la Jara was historically a border town between Christian and Muslim territories during the Reconquista, and the castle ruins still overlook the village.

Birds & Wildlife we are looking for include

• Griffon vultures (Buitre Leonado) soar above the Sierra Norte—watch for them near rocky cliffs and hills.
• Black kites, red kites, and possibly Spanish imperial eagles are around.
• Azure-winged magpies are common in the dehesa, usually in noisy groups.
• Hoopoes (with their punk-rock crest) may be seen in open clearings.
• Deer and wild boar sometimes cross paths, especially early or late in the day.

Plants & Flowers
• March brings early cistus (rock roses), lavender, and gorse to life, adding color to the hills.
• Cork oaks (Quercus suber) and holm oaks (Quercus ilex), many of which will have bark stripped for cork harvesting.
• Rosemary and thyme grow wild along the way.

Coffee at hotel €3.00

Groceries for lunch and dinner €28.30.

Hostel Rural La Encina. €60.00Read more
TravelerLoving your write ups on the history as well as the landscape!! Glad you are not out walking on the puddles. Been there and done that! NOT FUN at all.
3/8/25Reply
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Via de la Plata Traveler
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Suprise on the edge of El Real de la Jar
March 8, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
Went to scope out what everyone at the hostel was talking about… this very full arroyo on tomorrow’s path.
Traveler I guess you take your shoes off ?
3/16/25Reply
TravelerIt was too dangerous to cross that day. This is the photo at sunset. By 9 am we were able to safely cross in flip flops.
3/17/25Reply
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Via de la Plata Traveler
El Real de la Jara to Monesterio
March 9, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
23 km. Highs and lows were in the 40s F (7-10 C).

Today we forded over 30 streams, however none were dangerous. At the deepest one, everyone on the other side waited for others to pass before continuing on.

The walk from El Real de la Jara to Monesterio (approx. 21 km) is through classic Andalusian dehesa landscapes, rolling hills, and oak-studded pastures that are home to black Iberian pigs—the region’s famous Jamón Ibérico de Bellota.

It’s a moderate stage, with gentle ascents and descents, nothing too technical.

Scenery & Terrain

The route follows dirt tracks and old livestock trails (cañadas). Expansive meadows dotted with holm oaks and cork oaks typical of the dehesa ecosystem. Wide, open landscapes with long views, particularly as you near Monesterio. Seasonal wildflowers in spring, adding vibrant color to the fields. There will be more spring color in later March

History & Culture

El Real de la Jara: This village has a Moorish-era castle, part of the medieval defensive line between former Christian and Muslim territories. The path follows ancient transhumance routes, used for centuries by shepherds moving livestock. Monesterio is famous for its ham-producing heritage, celebrated in the local Jamón Ibérico Museum, which we missed by one hour due to stream crossings.

Nature & Wildlife
We saw vultures, kites, and storks. We heard a lot of songbirds.
There were large flocks of sheep, some cattle grazing, and also grazing Iberian pigs

Arrival in Monesterio

A gentle climb today. Situated at 700m altitude, Monesterio marks the gateway to Extremadura.

Monesterio is a very vibrant town of under 5000. If it wasn’t almost freezing and raining so much, I’d like to explore more. There are some great public spaces to check out, including a star gazing area on a large hill just before you approach town.

Lunch. Fried squid, salad, Russian tuna salad, two waters, two coffees. €24.00

Tapas: Jamon from this town and local cheeses. Also a glass of wine and beer. €14.00

Dinner. Pork “lizard”, pork cheeks, fries, homemade bread, olives. €35.00.

Lodging. Oikos Apartments. With indoor swimming pool in the basement. €77.00. Very warm reception, comfortable place, well laid out studio apartment. Bar/restaurant below with quality, local food items.Read more
TravelerTell me about your foot wear?? Are you using poles?
3/10/25Reply
TravelerDarren wears Altra Olympus 5 and I wear Topo Traverse. We don’t use waterproof shoes. We always use poles, even on flat terrain.
3/10/25Reply
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Via de la Plata Traveler
Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos
March 10, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
Day 5. 22 km. Temperature 42-50 F (5-10 C).

Only 15 stream crossings today and none required removal of our trail shoes. It did rain off and on all day, but less than 1/2 inch.

The stretch from Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos was a relatively easy and pleasant stage of the Vía de la Plata, characterized by rolling hills, dehesa landscapes, and traditional Extremaduran rural life.

Terrain & Scenery

Classic dehesa (oak-studded pastureland), which is home to black Iberian pigs, sheep and cattle. The path is mostly dirt tracks and quiet country roads, with gentle undulations.

As we left Monesterio, we saw pig farms and holm oak groves. Along the way, there are old farmhouses, stone walls, and streambeds. The last few kilometers offered views of Fuente de Cantos, a typical whitewashed Extremaduran town.

History & Culture

5000 years ago, the Monesterio–Fuente de Cantos region was home to Neolithic and Chalcolithic peoples who built megalithic tombs, farmed wheat and barley, and raised livestock. They crafted flint tools and later used copper from local sources.

By 1000 BCE, the area was part of Tartessian trade networks, influenced by Phoenician metallurgy and commerce. Natural paths, later used by Romans, connected inland settlements to the coast. The dehesa landscape, now known for Iberian pigs, has been shaped by millennia of pastoralism and agriculture.

Roman Influence: This path was a key segment of the original Vía de la Plata, used by the Romans for trade and military movements.

Moorish & Christian Eras: The region saw battles between Moors and Christians during the Reconquista. Many of the local towns still have churches and buildings with Moorish architecture.

Los Castillejos

Our last photo is from the Los Castillejos archaeological site near Fuente de Cantos, and its abandoned picnic area.

Castillejos I dates back to the Chalcolithic (Copper Age) and features a circular wall with a semicircular tower. Excavations have uncovered horned idols and evidence of early human settlement before its abandonment.

Castillejos II, in contrast, contains structures and artifacts from the Neolithic to the pre-Roman and Roman periods. Notable finds include well-preserved cart wheels, silos, pits, channels, and remnants of walls, suggesting continuous habitation.

At the highest elevation of the site, there is a snow well, an artificial cavity likely used for storing ice during winter. The site’s location near the Bodión Menor stream indicates its strategic importance.

Wildlife

Today we heard many songbirds, including European robin, European goldfinch, common chaffinch, corn bunting, and European greenfinch, and European stonechat. Storks were out hunting for frogs.

Agriculture & Local Products

Iberian Ham: Monesterio is famous for Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, made from free-range pigs that feed on acorns.

Cheese: The area produces Torta de la Serena, a creamy sheep’s milk cheese, as well as goat’s cheeses from local farms. We picked some up at the grocery store.

Wine: Fuente de Cantos is within the Ribera del Guadiana D.O., which produces Tempranillo, Garnacha, and white wines (Pardina, Cayetana Blanca).

Olive Oil & Honey: Small producers craft extra virgin olive oil and honey from wildflowers and rosemary.

Breakfast: Overnight oats from provisions

Lunch: Salmon, avocado, tomato and whole wheat tortillas from stash.

Dinner. Made some salad with local goat cheese. Then pork chop with mixed veggies and fajita seasoning.

Picked up some groceries at Dia in Fuente de Cantos, which will cover our next three meals and more. €28.52.

Lodging: Vuelve Apartments. €72.25.Read more
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Fuente de Cantos to Zafra
March 11, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 12 °C
26 km.

Low 46 F (8 C). High 56 F (13 C).

Today we walked from Fuente de Cantos to Zafra, Extremaduran countryside with rolling hills, wide dehesa landscapes, and a mix of agricultural fields and pastures dotted with wheat, vineyards, and olive groves.

The weather forecast was mostly dry, however we received over 1/2 inch of rain before noon. The bucolic country roads quickly turned muddy and some fields around us started flooding.

Based on the “Camino Telegraph”, we knew this to be a problem area. We were easily able to navigate the flooded roads, ditches and fields thanks to photos folks had posted online in the past 48 hours.

What we saw

Haciendas & Cortijos – scattered farmhouses (cortijos), some in ruins, others still working estates producing ham, cheese, and wine.

We saw a flat common genet taking a dirt nap on the side of the road. It’s a cat-like animal that’s active at night.

Zafra’s castle (Alcázar de los Duques de Feria), is now a parador (historic luxury hotel), which also happens to be where we stay tonight.

We enjoyed a couple of glasses of Ribera del Guadiana wine, a lesser-known but excellent Spanish wine regions that were walking through.

Breakfast and Lunch: Leftovers

Parador Zafra €114.00

Dinner at Parador: €99.00. One bottle of local wine, sparkling water, mushroom soup with bacon, pork trotters with chickpeas, migas del pastors, and salad with guacamole and shrimp.Read more
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Zafra to Villafranca de los Barros
March 12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
22 km.

46 to 57 F. (8 to 13 C.)

Straightforward path. Gentle rolling hills through pastures, olives groves, almond orchards and vineyards.

There are 11 species of wild orchids that thrive in this area.

Breakfast at Parador hotel (included).

Lunch. Sandwiches, three oranges, one apple and 200 grams of chicken €6.75.

Dinner at Cafe attached to Hotel Diane. Lentil stew, spinach soup with bacon, and pork loin with mushrooms and fries. Two flans and three beers. €26.20

Hotel Diana. €60.00Read more
TravelerSo much of the trail is dirt path. With all the recent rain, your shoes must be in bad shape at the end of the day!! How are you dealing with that? When we did our Camino, it rained a lot but the path was mostly wooden or paved walkways. We didn’t have to deal with muddy shoes!
3/15/25Reply
Traveler So pretty!
3/16/25Reply
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Villafranca de los Barros to Mérida
March 13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
19 km.

Low 6C. High 12C

It’s been raining off and on since we arrived in Villafranca de los Barros. And it continued to rain through the night and on our walk today to Almendralejo.

We walked by many olive groves and vineyards, a plant nursery for grapes and olives, and a couple of farms.

We had lunch at a Portuguese chicken carry-out. One chicken, one giant bag of fries, a salad for two, and a Coca Cola €18.50.

From Almendralejo to Mérida, we’re taking a train (23 minutes, €10.50 for two). We’re skipping 23 km of muddy fields and highway walking.

Both Villafranca de los Barros and Almendralejo look like prosperous towns.

Looking forward to Mérida later today.

Dinner: We stopped at the neighboring Dia supermarket and picked up some food and beverages for our three night stay in Mérida. €61.65

Apartamentos Élite - Art Collection - Leonardo: €94.26Read more
TravelerWe are really hoping the weather picks up it’s so wet and miserable. Fingers crossed for some sun
3/13/25Reply
TravelerYes. At least it is warm and we don’t feel cold while walking. And we’re staying in private accommodations where we can have heat at night.
3/13/25Reply
Traveler Nice place!!
3/15/25Reply
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Via de la Plata Traveler
Basilica of Santa Eulalia
March 13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
The Basilica of Santa Eulalia is one of the most important religious and historical sites in the city, closely tied to the legacy of Roman Mérida (Augusta Emerita).

Santa Eulalia was a Christian martyr from Mérida who was executed in the early 4th century during the persecutions of Emperor Diocletian.

The original basilica was built in the late Roman period, likely in the 4th or 5th century, shortly after Christianity became the dominant religion in the Roman Empire.

It was constructed over a Roman necropolis, which held the tomb of Santa Eulalia.

During the Visigothic period (6th-8th century), the basilica remained an important religious center.

When the Moors conquered Mérida in 713, the church fell into decline.

After the Christian reconquest of Mérida in 1230 by Alfonso IX of León, the basilica was rebuilt in a Romanesque style. The medieval structure incorporated earlier elements, including remnants of the original basilica and the underlying necropolis.

Excavations reveal layers of Roman, Visigothic, and medieval Christian structures.Read more
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The Roman Circus of Mérida
March 14, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
The Roman Circus of Mérida (Circo Romano de Mérida) was one of the largest and best-preserved chariot-racing arenas of the Roman Empire. Built in the 1st century CE, it was modeled after Rome’s Circus Maximus and could hold 30,000 spectators.

Key Features:
• The circus measured 403 meters long and 96 meters wide, designed for chariot races (ludi circenses).
• It had a central spine (spina) decorated with obelisks, statues, and turning posts.
• The starting gates (carceres) and some seating areas remain visible today.
• Events were held to celebrate imperial victories, religious festivals, and military triumphs.

Historical Importance:
• It was a major entertainment venue for Augusta Emerita, the capital of Lusitania.
• Chariot races, with four-horse (quadrigae) teams, were extremely popular among Romans.
• The circus was used well into the 4th–5th centuries CE, before falling into ruin.

Modern Significance:
• The site is now an open-air archaeological park, part of Mérida’s UNESCO World Heritage designation.Read more
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The Mérida aqueducts
March 14, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
The Mérida aqueducts are outstanding examples of Roman engineering in Augusta Emerita (modern Mérida, Spain), a city founded in 25 BCE by Emperor Augustus. These aqueducts supplied water to the growing Roman colony from nearby reservoirs, ensuring a steady flow for public baths, fountains, and homes.

The most famous is the Acueducto de los Milagros, built in the 1st–3rd centuries CE. It originally spanned 830 meters and reached 25 meters high, transporting water from the Proserpina Reservoir. Its red and black stone arches give it a distinctive appearance.

The Acueducto de Rabo de Buey-San Lázaro and Acueducto de San Lázaro brought water from the Cornalvo Reservoir, another major Roman dam. Though less intact, they were essential to the city’s water supply.

Mérida’s Roman reservoirs—Proserpina and Cornalvo—are still standing, among the oldest of their kind. The city’s aqueducts highlight Roman innovation in hydraulic engineering and urban planning. Today, Mérida is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the Acueducto de los Milagros remains a striking landmark, often compared to Segovia’s aqueduct.Read more
TravelerLove all the history you are sharing with us. You must be very tired at the end of a long walk day. I appreciated all the effort you are putting into this.
3/15/25Reply
TravelerThanks!
3/15/25Reply
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Via de la Plata Traveler
Roman Bridge of Mérida
March 14, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
The Roman Bridge of Mérida (Puente Romano de Mérida) is one of the longest and most significant Roman bridges still standing today.

Built in the 1st century BCE, it was constructed to span the Guadiana River, serving as a crucial part of the Via de la Plata, the ancient Roman road connecting Mérida (Augusta Emerita) to Astorga.

Key Features:
• Originally, the bridge measured 790 meters in length with 62 arches, making it one of the longest surviving Roman bridges.
• Today, 60 arches remain, stretching 721 meters, with a maximum width of 12 meters.
• It was built using granite ashlar masonry, ensuring durability.
• The bridge was reinforced multiple times, notably during the Almohad period (12th century) and later medieval modifications.

Historical and Strategic Importance:
• The bridge provided a vital military and trade route for the Roman Empire.
• It enabled Mérida’s rise as the capital of Lusitania, one of the most important provinces of Hispania.
• It remained the primary crossing of the Guadiana River for nearly 2,000 years, even after Roman times.

Modern Significance:
• Today, the Roman Bridge of Mérida is pedestrian-only, allowing visitors to walk across this ancient structure.
• It forms part of Mérida’s UNESCO World Heritage Site.Read more
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Temple of Diana, Mérida
March 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
The Temple of Diana in Mérida, Spain, is a well-preserved Roman temple dating back to the 1st century BCE.

Located in the ancient city of Augusta Emerita, it was originally dedicated to imperial worship rather than the goddess Diana.

The temple features a rectangular layout with Corinthian columns made of local granite, standing on a large podium.

During the Renaissance, the structure was incorporated into the Palace of the Duke of Corbos, blending Roman and medieval architectural elements.

Today, the temple remains a striking example of Roman engineering and urban planning, forming part of Mérida’s UNESCO-listed archaeological ensemble.

In fact, one ticket €17 each for two adults (total €34) gains you access to over 10 sites in Mérida with no time limit. With the ticket you can only enter each monument one time.Read more
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Casa del Mitreo, Mérida
March 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Casa del Mitreo in Mérida, Spain, was a large Roman domus from the late 1st to early 2nd century CE, likely owned by an elite family.

Covering approximately 3,000 square meters, it had multiple courtyards, private rooms, and baths, showcasing the wealth and status of its inhabitants.

The house is particularly notable for its intricate mosaics and wall paintings. One of the most famous mosaics is the Cosmogonic Mosaic, depicting the elements—earth, water, air, and fire—alongside mythological figures, reflecting Roman cosmology. Other mosaics feature geometric designs and marine themes, common in Roman elite homes.

The walls once had elaborate frescoes, some with red and ochre backgrounds, adorned with floral and architectural motifs. Though faded, traces of these decorative elements remain.

Casa del Mitreo provides insight into the artistic sophistication of Augusta Emerita’s upper class, highlighting Roman luxury and aesthetics.Read more
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Casa Romana del Anfiteatro, Mérida
March 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
The Casa Romana del Anfiteatro in Mérida is a large Roman villa located near the amphitheater, dating from the 2nd to 3rd centuries CE.

Covering approximately 3,000 square meters, the house belonged to a wealthy family and featured multiple rooms, peristyles, and bathing areas.

One of its most remarkable features is the mosaic of fish and wine, a stunning example of Roman craftsmanship. The mosaic depicts various fish species, amphorae, and other marine motifs, symbolizing abundance and prosperity.

A second mosaic references wine culture, with images of vessels and grape-related elements, reflecting the importance of wine in Roman social and religious life.

This mosaic, along with others found in the house, showcases the luxurious lifestyle of its owners and their appreciation for fine art. The Casa Romana del Anfiteatro provides an exceptional glimpse into the aesthetics and daily life of Mérida’s Roman elite.Read more
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Restaurante Tuétano, Mérida
March 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Restaurante Tuétano, situated at Calle John Lennon 26 in Mérida, Spain, is renowned for its exceptional grilled meats and regional cuisine.

The restaurant offers two tasting menus—comprising four and eight courses—with the latter providing an optional wine pairing. We each did the eight course tasting menus with a total of four glasses of wine for €184.00. The meal lasted about three hours :)

The server gave us a stamp for our Via de la Plata credential and said “If you come back to Mérida, you have a home here”.

The ambiance of Tuétano is both historic and contemporary. Located just steps from Mérida’s historic Alcazaba, the restaurant is built above Roman remains visible through a glass floor in the main dining room.

While Tuétano has been acknowledged in the Michelin Guide for its quality cuisine and distinctive setting, it has not been awarded a Michelin star. Read more
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Roman Amphitheatre of Mérida
March 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
The Roman Amphitheatre of Mérida, built in 8 BCE, was a grand structure designed for gladiatorial combat, beast hunts, and public spectacles.

Part of the ancient city of Augusta Emerita, it could hold around 15,000 spectators, reflecting the city’s importance in the Roman Empire.

The amphitheater features an elliptical arena with a central pit, likely used for stage machinery or drainage. The tiered seating was divided into three sections according to social class, ensuring the elite had the best views. Vaulted galleries and staircases provided easy access for the audience.

The ruins still show traces of the original decorative elements, including remnants of marble and sculptural reliefs. Over time, the amphitheater fell into disuse but remains one of the best-preserved in Spain. Now part of Mérida’s UNESCO-listed archaeological ensemble, it offers a glimpse into the grandeur of Roman entertainment culture.Read more
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Roman Theatre of Mérida
March 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
The Roman Theatre of Mérida, built in 16–15 BCE, is one of the best-preserved theaters from the Roman Empire. Commissioned by Agrippa, son-in-law of Emperor Augustus, it could seat around 6,000 spectators and was used for theatrical performances, poetry readings, and political events.

Its semi-circular seating was divided into three sections based on social status, with the elite occupying the front rows. The orchestra area, where important officials sat, was paved with marble.

The most striking feature is the two-story stage façade (scaenae frons), adorned with Corinthian columns, statues of gods and emperors, and decorative friezes—a symbol of Roman grandeur.

Over time, the theater was abandoned and buried, but excavations in the 20th century restored its former glory. Now part of Mérida’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, it hosts the International Classical Theatre Festival, reviving its ancient purpose as a cultural center.Read more
TravelerAmazing!! Merida is now on our list!! Thank you.
3/16/25Reply
TravelerIt’s pretty easy to get to from Sevilla or Madrid. There are five more cities we’re looking forward to seeing yet on this trek :)
3/16/25Reply
TravelerAfter you guys are done, I would love your recommendations for multi-day thru hikes around this region. I don’t need to do the full Camino
3/18/25Reply
Traveler Beautiful!
3/16/25Reply
3 likes
Via de la Plata Traveler
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Mérida to Aljucén
March 16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
18 km.

46 F low, 61 F high.

Today’s hike from Mérida to Aljucén was a relatively short and gentle stage, taking us through a mix of Roman history, natural beauty, and rural landscapes.

As we left Mérida, we saw sections of the Roman aqueducts standing in the pastures. The Acueducto de los Milagros once carried water from the Proserpina reservoir, which we passed today

The Proserpina Reservoir (Embalse de Proserpina) is an ancient Roman dam located about 5 km north of Mérida, and it’s one of the oldest functioning Roman reservoirs in the world. It was built to supply Augusta Emerita (modern-day Mérida) with fresh water through the Acueducto de los Milagros.

Key Facts About the Proserpina Reservoir

Built in the 1st–2nd century AD, using Roman concrete and granite blocks. The dam is 425 meters long and about 21 meters high at its tallest point.

It’s a gravity dam, meaning its weight holds back the water, a design that Roman engineers perfected.

Water was channeled through a Roman aqueduct (now partially ruined) into the city. The Acueducto de los Milagros carried this water over the Albarregas River into Mérida.

The reservior still holds water and is used for irrigation and recreation today. Locals swim, kayak, and fish in the reservoir.

The name “Proserpina” refers to the Roman goddess of the underworld and seasons.

Further along, we saw remnants of other aqueducts scattered in the countryside. Some appeared as low ruins and others as stone channels.

We passed through the Cornalvo Natural Park, a protected area with Mediterranean holm oak forests (dehesa).

We also saw cattle and sheep grazing as we entered Aljucén.Read more
Traveler Wow… so light on your feet!
3/16/25Reply
TravelerThe power of two rest days. And excitement of not having to take off shoes to cross a stream.
3/17/25Reply
2 likes
Via de la Plata Traveler
Merino sheep originated in Extremadura
March 16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Today we saw our first Merino sheep (rams).

Merino sheep originated in Extremadura, where they were prized for their ultrafine wool.

Their dense, crimped fleece is soft, lightweight, and highly insulating, making it ideal for high-quality textiles. Unlike coarse wool breeds, Merino wool is non-itchy and regulates temperature well. Merino wool is my (Jolene’s) favorite hiking clothing material.

Merino rams have distinctive spiral horns, which grow outward and curve back toward their heads. Ewes usually have small or no horns.

Their adaptability to Extremadura’s hot summers and cold winters made them vital to Spain’s medieval Mesta system, which controlled seasonal sheep migrations (transhumance).

Today, Merino wool remains a global luxury product, though Spain’s Merino population has declined due to competition from Australia and New Zealand. However, efforts to preserve pure Spanish Merinos continue, especially in Extremadura’s dehesa landscape, where they still graze among oak trees.Read more
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Via de la Plata Traveler
Termas Aqua Libera in Aljucén
March 16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Termas Aqua Libera, located in Aljucén near Mérida, is a boutique hotel designed as a Roman-style domus. It’s a few short steps from the Via de la Plata.

Its suites are arranged around tranquil courtyards and a garden, blending ancient aesthetics with modern comforts like air conditioning, heating, and modern bedrooms and bathrooms.

Guests can unwind in the outdoor pool or indulge in the spa’s Roman-inspired thermal baths and massage services.

The on-site restaurant offers an authentic Roman dining experience, serving ancient Roman cuisine.

Thermes (thermal spa). 1 hour private session for a couple: Textile free or bring a bathing suit.

Dinner: Four courses, 1/2 liter wine, water and homemade bread.

Breakfast was eggs, bacon, cake, bread, orange juice and coffee.

Total for the stay, food, and thermal bath was €165.00Read more
TravelerWhat a great experience!!!
3/18/25Reply
4 likes
Via de la Plata Traveler
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Aljucén to Alcuéscar
March 17, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
22 km. 49F low. 59F high.

After a generous breakfast at our lodging in Aljucén, we stopped by the open Romanesque church.

The hike from Aljucén to Alcuéscar was delightful, and muddy in a few spots due to last night’s rain.

We heard many songbirds, including the hoopoe and cuckoo.

We saw several wildflowers blooming, as well as many puffball mushrooms.

We saw small olive orchards and grapevines, cattle, horses, and many curious Merino sheep grazing in open fields.

The terrain was gently sloping upwards with scattered granite boulders add a rugged beauty to the landscape.

Our lodging was at an albergue called Albergue Pampejo de Alcuéscar. It was positioned directly above a bullring. €50.00.

We stocked up on groceries at the nearby Dia supermarket, as we won’t see another supermarket until Thursday afternoon. €38.32.Read more
Traveler Wow this looks so cool.
3/18/25Reply
5 likes
Via de la Plata Traveler
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Alcuéscar to Valdesalor
March 18, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
27 km. 49F low. 58F high. Light rain.

Woke up to a foggy morning over the bullring.

We opted to walk along a rural paved road and the highway N360 as recommended by local officials due to earlier rains.

I’d been saying for over a week that this Camino could use more chickens, and today the Camino provided. We saw several small farms with chickens and turkeys as we left town.

We walked along sections of the original Roman Via de la Plata, and spotted some Roman milestones (mojones miliarios) along the way.

Later in the day, we saw several larger cattle and sheep ranches as we approached Valdesalor.

Our lodging tonight is in Valdesalor – a small, quiet town that was developed in the 1950s as part of a rural resettlement project.

Lodging: Alojamiento El Maijon De Los Castous: €50.40

Two beers €3.00

Meals from yesterday’s grocery haul.Read more
Traveler I love the old stone walls
3/24/25Reply
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