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South Wales Tour 2023
  • Dan Bowen

South Wales Tour 2023

A 9-day adventure by Dan Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 18, 2023
    Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Bristol and Bath Railway Path

    August 18, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It’s time for another bicycle tour. Although I thought I had prepared my kit quite thoroughly, as ever ‘last minute’ adjustments become last hours adjustments. It was nearly two in the afternoon before I managed to leave (not counting an earlier false start where, in my haste, I had set off with my brake reservoir left open).

    From the edge of the town I took the backroads to the town of Corsham, then on to Bath via the large hill at Kingsdown. From there I darted through the city crossing the iconic Pulteney bridge and Bath cathedral, the expected bad weather having brought out only modest crowds of tourists.

    I picked up the first of my national cycle network routes for the trip: route four. Route four is a way marked route of backroads and cycle paths running from London in the East to the port of Fishguard in south west Wales. I would be using various short stretches of it this trip. This section follows the Kennet and Avon canal briefly before joining a railway path which follows the former Mangotsfield and Bath branch of the midland railway.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    The Prince of Wales bridge, viewed from the Severn bridge (pont Havren).

    Severn Bridge

    August 18, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    From the old Mangotsfield station, I took the path along its northern platform, once served by trains on the old Bristol and Gloucester railway. Although it technically remains a ‘traffic free’ path, it soon begins to follow the route of the Bristol ring road - and the natural, peaceful sounds of the countryside were replaced by a constant din of vehicles. I was soon regretting my choice of route, the air seemed so thick with pollution you could chew it, and I found myself becoming irritated that not a singe vehicle using the road had more than one person in it.

    Traffic noise and pollution were constant companions all the way to the Severn bridge. Once the path ends in the Patchway area of Bristol, I took assorted back roads and A-Roads, some of which were very busy,    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    A view over Crumlin.
    The Dean Farm Trust Sanctuary, home of Hope the pig.

    Storm Betty

    August 18, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    The weather forecast was severe enough that the storm system that was due to hit had been granted a name. The rain began to fall just as I was approaching the Severn bridge, accompanied by falling temperatures and a stiff wind.

    My route through South Wales took me roughly north-west past Dean farm trust’s sanctuary, through the town of Usk and up to Pontypool. From there I turned due West along the old railway that would once have crossed the Crumlin viaduct. The light finally went on this leg, I was thoroughly wet, tired and hungry - the ride became a balancing act between husbanding my energy to complete the miles ahead and putting in enough effort to stay warm.

    Arriving at a point overlooking Crumlin, it became clear how thick the weather was: the bottom and far side of the valley were obscured by the rain and mist. The heavy weather meant it was far too wet to use the OS map on my phone - the capacitative touch system couldn’t tell the difference between my fingers and the water droplets. This became a particular problem when it came time to find my way down the side of the Ebbw valley.

    Whilst I had been conscious that the Crumlin viaduct, which the path (back when it was a railway) would have met had been the tallest in the UK my mind hasn’t made the connection with needing to get down to the valley floor. I ended up picking my way down a footpath with steep stairs - meaning I had to disassemble my bike and managed to get grease on my nice new waterproof jacket :-(

    At this point a problem developed with one of my lights, so I picked my way along the quiet roads on the western side of the Ebbw and then joined the old Crumlin branch of the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal at Cwm Carn to make the remainder of journey to my Parents’ house further down the valley.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Hengoed viaduct

    August 19, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Route 47 traverses the Sirhowy country park, before joining the old Newport, Abergavenny and Hereford Railway. Its a beautiful ride with great surfaces that climb gently up the valleys. It has some great industrial archeology, including the grade II listed Hengoed viaduct which carries the path over the viliage of Maesycwmmer.

    Just to the east of Ystrad Mynach the path begins to follow along the still active Rhymni line.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Trelewis suspension bridge

    August 19, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    National cycle route 47 crosses the Bargoed-Taff river by a beautiful minature suspension bridge, shortly before it merges with national route 8 (the Lon Las Cymru) for a brief run to the south.

    National route 47 provides an alternative to sections of the London to Fishguard national cycle route 4, always deviating to the North. 47 first spits from 4 at Newport, merging back in at Neath (Castell Nedd) and again at Carmarthen before they finally meet at Fishguard harbour.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    St Gwynno forest, sheepdog trials

    August 20, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today’s ride is national cycle route 47 to Glyncorwg, and I have a riding partner for this stretch! The first section after it branches off from the Taff trail (route 8) is a fast, well paved path along the Nant Clydach river, as it climbs gently toward its source. Soon enough this transitions to steep backroads and forest trails.

    As we climbed the rough track through St Gwynno forest we saw that sheepdog trials were taking place. Naturally I was curious as to what the charges were, whether the jury would be stacked with colies or represent a broader cross section of dogs; is the prosecutor a sheep? Whatever the case, it seemed likely the defence's evidence would be barking, so some ruff justice would be dealt out.

    At the top of the hill was the first stile requiring that we take all our bags off the bikes to get past. Sadly the first of many on this route. Since we had to stop to negotiate the stile we stopped for a snack and a sit in the sun.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Cefn Gwyngul lunch stop

    August 20, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After a further climb it was time to break out the camp chair for a lunch of fruits and grains, with a nice balsamic dressing.

    At this point we were roughly on the ridge line that divides the catchment of the Rhondda Fach from that of Nant Cydach, which we had been following earlier.Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Strange daisies: Pen-y-Cymoedd wind farm

    August 20, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Pen-y-Cymoedd wind farm is a vast, 228 Megawatt generation project; Its 76 turbines are strung out along the peaks at the headwaters of the Rhondda Fawr, Ogwr Fawr, Afan, Crrowg and Pelenna. They make a striking, and quite beautiful sight along the horizon for many miles: the farm is about 11Km east to west and 5Km north to south.

    The route passes close to some of the turbines, their bold, swift shadows caused me to instinctively duck as they rushed through my peripheral vision. Their sound of the disrupted airflow adds a distinct, rhythmic note that harmonises with natural sounds of wind rushing over the hillside.

    Many gravel tracks criss-cross through the forests and hillsides, and these would take us to Glyncorrwg, where we would join our friends Jem and Bobby, who were arriving by car, for a few nights of camping and mountain biking.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    GPX
    A pithead wheel displayed at the South Wales Mining MuseumThe former Cwmer Afan railway station, now café, of the defunct Rhondda and Swansea Bay railway.

    Blue scar mountain bike trail

    August 21, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The four of us hired cross-country mountain bikes to take on some of Afan Forest's legendary trails. We were all either new, or hadn't done any proper mountain biking for a long time, so we decided to take on the blue grade trail: Blue Scar.

    Having previously only ridden Whites Level, which begins at the Glyncorrwg Mountain Bike Centre, I hadn't realised that blue scar actually starts about 8Km further down the valley. Fortunately the major trails are connected by a path along the disused South Wales Mineral Raiway to Cymer, then the former Rhondda and Swansea Bay line. The path gives relatively easy access, but an 8Km warm up was perhaps not ideal for this group.

    Combined with lingreing brunch, and some fettling with the hire bikes, we didn't hit the trailhead until about one o'clock. The trail starts near the South Wales mining museum and slaloms up the mountain in a series of hairpins (switchbacks) and meandering forestry tracks. Near the top there are some great views, but it was a hard climb for the non/lapsed cyclists in the group.

    On one steep loose section, the others dismounted to walk up. I took the opportunity to borrowe the fanciest mountian bike whilst its rider didn't need it. I dashed about 500m along and 40m up the climb, and then descended again on the beautiful full suspension model with a remote drop seatpost. The proper 'single track' sections are a strict one-way system, so I could only try it on the relativly mundane forestry track - but it was still quite fun.

    Once we had all reached the top of the climb for Bluescar, and I was back on my own hire bike, I split off from the group to climb to the top of the more technical (red grade) Penhydd trail. The proprietor of Glyncorrwg mountain bike centre had tipped us off that there is a cut through that allows you to rejoin blue scar after Penhydd's 'big dipper' section.

    At the top of Penhydd, having just overtaken a chap on a cyclocross/gravel bike in my haste I forgot to drop my seat post - making control 'interesting' on the first section named 'widowmaker'. Fortunately it didn't live up to its name (or maybe it did since I'm technically unmarried?) and proved a straight, but rough run. I remembered to configure the bike properly for the 'big dipper'.

    My jaunt on Penhydd took just shy of 15 minutes, and I got some nice helmet cam footage of Penhydd https://youtu.be/eW75-TgJa7g . After breifly heading off on the wrong trail, I managed to rejoin the group on Bluescar having only been away for about 20 minutes.

    It was around this point that I realised that someone in the group had only recenttly learned to ride a bike (at all - not just the mountain kind). The fact that they had looked so proficient that this hadn't bene apparent until now is amazing, but by the time I rejoined a significant fall had happned. Although its only 'blue' the decent of Blue Scar can be challenging in places, so it took a little over an hour for the group to complete the decent (of which I was with them for about 50 minutes).

    The complete lap of Blue Scar had taken almost exactly three hours, and it had taken 45 minutes to reach the trail head. As a result, the deadline for returning the hire bikes was looming and we had 8Km to return up the valley and with a pretty exhausted group. With our late start, this meant we only managed the single lap, but at least we made it back (just in the nick of time for five o'clock closing).

    We capped the day off with a camp fire and s’mores, relaxing in our camp chairs and warm ponchos. We also had some serious science to do - a three way taste test between Dandies, Freedom 'mallows and Marks and Spencer Plant Kitchen Marshmallows. Paired with home made graham-crackers, they make a great camp treat - Plant Kitchen won the popular vote, although I remain loyal to Dandies.

    A little later in the evening the weather turned: some quite heavy rain came in and my old tent (bought second hand to begin with) started to show its age. The seam seals had all perished letting in considerable, but thankfully not catastrophic, amounts of water.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    It was nice to have the big tent out again, and novel to be able to sit and stand under 'canvas'.
    Camppuccinos - espresso from a Waccaco nanopresso, with hot oat-milk foamed using a battery whisk.Jem's top secret curry - camping edition.Car camping tent vs backpacking tent.Preparing dinner with vegetables we dehdrated at home.Dinner post-hydration.Evening camp fire.S'more marshmallowy treats.

    Camp day

    August 22, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a long, languid morning in camp. I used the the last of the milk, and assorted coffee paraphernalia to make my patented 'camppuccinos'.

    For luch it was a huge portion of one of Jem's excellent curries - so huge we had to spread it across two large pots (as it was simply too heavy to be on the backpacking stove all at once).

    By mid afternoon it was time for Jem and Bobby to head off; the campsite was so peaceful that the cyclists elected to stay (having brought a second small thet for the purpose).

    The remainder of the day was spent relaxing and reading around camp, fettling the bikes a little and fueling up for another day's riding.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    View near the headwaters of the Afan, Ogwr and Rhondda rivers: a root point of the Valleys.
    Mining, rugby and sheep farming: definitive part of 'valleys' culture and history.Mural in GlyncorwgMy bike at the junction of routes 47 and 887 on the National Cycle Network.

    Glyncorwg to Rhondda vale

    August 23, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    It was time to retrace our route of two days before across the Pen-y-Cymoedd wind farm.

    We took the steep regional route 887 up the valley until it intercepts the main track through the windfarm some some 240 meters above our starting point in Glyncorwg. The track is huge, having been used to deliver the massive turbines to the site; we took it north east until it intercepts with national route 47. This was also the pinacle of our day's ride, just shy of 540 meters above sea level (320 above the day's start point).

    On our ride we had encountered a pair of windfarm maintainance vehicles, a couple of mountain bikers and one runner with a dog - not a lot of humans for a 16Km stretch. This gave the ride a flavour of wilderness, despite the constructed tracks winding through the hills and forests or the file of turbines along the horizon.

    After some brief undulation, route 47 brought us down to the Lluest-wen resevoir, at the top of the valley of the Rhondda fach. A little below the resevior, route 47 meets another regional route: number 881. We stopped here to heat up our lunch; we left it to steep in hot water, within a Thermos bag for us to eat further on down the valley.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    A tastey, warm lunch by the Rhondda Fach.
    View from the lunch stop.One of the birds performing claming, almost hypnotic circles above our lunch spot.Gravel track on Route 881.

    Lunch stop in Rhondda vale

    August 23, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Rather than re-trace our steps all the way back to Pontypridd, we would be taking the more southerly regional route 881 which tracks the Rhondda river from this point until its confluence with the Taff.

    We stopped for Lunch by the river, the looking up at the imposing, steep valley side. Three circling birds of prey kept us company. It was mostly peacful except for a group on noisy 'scrambler' motorbikes passing by.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    Barry sidings cafe food counter
    Riding along the Rhondda

    Barry Sidings cafe and visitor centre

    August 23, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The ride down the Rhondda was pretty straight forward, using mostly riverside and old railway paths. A few sections are a little muddy, or gravelly, but nothing particularly technical.

    Heading down into the heart of the vallyes, slag heaps (spoil tips from the region's numerous coal mines) dominated many of the hill tops. This was a strange, thought provoking contrast to the windfarm. The south Wales coal field, with its high quality anthracite, powered much of the industrial revolution, not to mention the great battle fleets of Royal Navy. There doesn't seem to be an easily obtainable figure for just how much; my estimate (based on a proportion of UK wide output) is that about 3 billion tonnes were extracted since the mid 1800s (which would account for around 8 billion tonnes of CO2 emissions when burned).

    In many ways, Wales has already been through a seismic change in moving away from unsustainable practices, similar to that now facing the rest of globe. The end of mineral extraction and most heavy industry in the region has left significant economic and social challenges; it has at least left behind some beautiful industrial archeology and some wonderful infrastructure for sustainable tourism. like the old mineral railways, turned paths.

    Clearly there is a long way to go on the evironmental, economic and wider social challenges from decarbonisation, and industrial/imperial hisotory. The jucstapositons of nature, sustainable transport and industrial history on this trip leave me feeling hopeful that positive change is possible.

    Soon the Rhondda Fach met the Rhondda Fawr, to form main run of the river. About half way from the confluence to where the Rhondda meets the Taff, we stopped for our final break at Bary sidings cafe.

    When I walked in for coffe, they were playing the Beach Boys' 'Good Vibrations' , and had a bicycle artistically installed as part of their signage. A lovely spot to stop on a cycling trip.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Sirhowy valley country park

    August 24, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I returned along route 47, accidentally taking it westbound for a stretch, rather than directly back towards Ystrad Mynach. The weather was gorgeous and made for a good afternoon’s ride.

    I posted some clips of my ride to YouTube https://youtu.be/Zv2hyPbrEe0?si=mzHqYvg1qSx7HKqlRead more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Brecon and Monmouthshire canal

    August 24, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After the Sirhowy rejoins the Ebbw I stayed with route 47; passes through Risca and crosses the railway to join the Brecon and Monmouthshire canal. The old tow path provides a flat route, offering views across the valley broken up by the odd copse of trees.Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler

    Day trip to Cwmbran

    August 25, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Took a day to hang out with my brother and his kids in Cwmbran. We saw the new Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles movie, got some nice coffee and my niece was chilly so borrowed my jacket - which was super cute.Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    Transported bridge have a suspended 'gondola' that operates like a ferry.

    Newport

    August 26, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I took the last stretch of route 47, which descends through 14 Locks to the bottom of the Usk valley. The route splits from the canal just before its end, joining the river at Newport (Casnewydd) castle. 47 follows the river bank until its end (or official speaking, its start) at a junction with national route 4 just north of the Newport transporter bridge.

    The transporter bridge is another example of the area’s long industrial history. The Usk’s unusually large tidal range and shallow banks make it unsuitable to be worked by a ferry, but a conventional bridge would have interfered with tall ships which used to dock upstream. The transporter bridge’s span is very tall to allow ships, and suspends a ‘gondola’ that traverses back and forth like a ferry (avoiding long or steep pathways up to the span itself).

    From here I would be joining route 4 for the stretch to Severn Beach, on the opposite side of the Severn (Hafren) estuary. Some clips from my day’s ride https://youtu.be/a6hG-JR69s0?si=gW_22OfpI5lEtFnh

    Just as I was leaving town I got into conversation with a group of ladies out for a ride; they were stopped to fix a tyre so I stopped to see if they needed anything. We chatted about touring vs day rides, how the bike isn’t as heavy as it looks - I just prefer the handling of the bike with a trailer - and so on.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    View inland from the Avonmouth bridge.
    Sculpture at the western end of the cycle track crossing the Avonmouth bridgeTrail leading from the old docklands area of Newport, out onto the country backroads.A road section of route 4 between Newport and CaldicotLeft or right: National Cycle Network sinage isn't always as clear as it might be.Clouds gathering for the impending storm just outside Caldicot.A much brighter crossing of the Severn Bridge (Pont Hafren).One of the sporadic wooded sections of route 41.

    Avonmouth

    August 26, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    From Newport, route 4 follows a meandering route along some dirt tracks and then a series of backroads across the flat plain along the Severn (Hafren) estuary. The weather was mostly pleaseant, but I got caught in a short, but very cold, heavy thunderstorm around Caldicot.

    As quickly as it the bad wether came it had gone again - and the bright sunshine as I crossed the Severn bridge (pont Hafren) was in stark contrast the the grey beginnings of storm Betty on the outbound trip. I decided to stick to Sustrans routes at least as far as Bristol, having no desire to reaquaint myself with the noise and fumes of the ring road. From the England end of Severn bridge I continued with route 4 as it headed back West along the opposite side of the estuary, past the newer Prince of Wales bridge (pont Tywysog Cymru) - sadly not open to cycles.

    After passing the bridge, I joined route 41; it provides an alternate route into central Bristol - approaching via the river Avon to avoid many of the urbanised areas. It continues West to Avon mouth, where I got a great view from the Avonmouth bridge (although its not a great place to stand around, since it also carries the M5 motorway).    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    SS Great Britain. The great experiment: first ship to combine a (vast) iron hull and screw propeller
    Bristol's harbour near the lock that connects it to the river Avon and on to the sea,A view down the gorge towards the Clifton Suspension bridge.The sheer sides of the gorge rise up on either side.

    Bristol harbour

    August 26, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I followed the rest of the route 41: the Pill Path section. It follows the river Avon along wide, meandering lower reaches and on through the Avon gorge. A few sections were sufficiently muddy that I felt my rear wheel sliding out in the turns - enough to keep me on my toes!

    A few cyclists passed in the opposite direction; this me very conscious of my wide panniers on this narrow strip of dirt hemmed in by hedges and the side of the gorge. One rider seems distressed and had apparently been spat on by a large group riding motor scooters along the cycleway. I encountered that group just before I passed under Brunel’s iconic Clifton suspension bridge, but fortunately received no spittle of my own.

    Route 41 merges with route 33 which took me along the harbour side in Bristol passing the SS Great Britain on the opposite side. The bars and restaurants looked very tempting, but with bad more thunderstorms forecast and a long route ahead I felt I needed to press on to route 4.    Read more

  • Dan BowenSouth Wales Tour 2023Traveler
    On the Dundas aquaduct, in the evening light.View from the Dundas aquaduct.Passing through the old Warmley railway station on route 4.

    Kennet and Avon Canal

    August 26, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    From central Bristol, I joined the Bristol and Bath railway path, meeting my outbound route at the old Mangotsfield station, with its distinct triangular island platform.

    Shortly there after another thunderstorm rolled in. I'm not usually prone to feeling cold, other than when I'm tired - and with over 100Km behind me today and not much in the way of food-stops, I was definitely that. I found myself hiding beneath old stone bridges to don my rain jacket, and subsequently to grab a snack and a few moments respite from the sharp cold of the heavy rain droplets.

    I had been debating whether to continue on route 4 or take a more direct route back to Chippenham from Bath. The lightning on the horizon settled the question: I wasn't going to take a route that passes through a hilltop golf course during a lightning storm. After Bath route 4 joins the Kennet and Avon Canal - the old tow path, is extremely rough.

    The vibrations induced by the sharp rocks made me hyper concious of my rattling gear, as the canal is lined with canal barges where people live. The surface also made for much slower riding, and before very long, my wrists were complaining at the tension. The scenerey, evening light and wood-smoke from the stoves aboard peoples' barges, were all very pleasant, but the general tensions and discomforts of trying to handle the heavy bike on the rough track were mountain.

    I took the canal as far as Melksham, where I joined regional route 403 - which takes backroads to Chippenham and journey's end. By the time I left the canal, I had put 140Km and 9 hours of travel behind me today. It was a releif to be away from the terrible washboard surface, but the last 15 Km were an exercise in fighting fatigue, ignoring my fairly empty belly and worrying about whether my light batteries would last.

    I arrived home around 22:00, tired and wet; both the bike and I were covered in grime from the canal path. Naturally, the only thing to do was to order a pizza and take a shower to cap off the trip and around 450Km of riding.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 26, 2023
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