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Winter in Japan
  • Jen Svenson
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  • Jen Svenson

Winter in Japan

Sparked from David's desire to ski Japan's legendary powder and fueled by Jen's love of traveling, we will be traveling for a month from Tokyo, through Japan's country side and onto Hokkaido's famous ski resorts. Read more
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    🇯🇵 Sapporo, Japan
    Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    1This year's winner!
    Sapporo Beer Museumbeer samples beforebeer samples afterSapporo Clock TowerSapporo skyline

    Sapporo Snow Fest

    Feb 7–11 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °F

    Can you guess our first stop in Sapporo? The Beer Museum of course! Since 1876, Sapporo beer sales are still growing strong. The guided tour ended in a tasting room, as all good brewery tours should!
    This morning, we walked through the main event in Sapporo - The Snow Fest in Odori Park. Since 1950, Odori Park was the place where the citizens of Sapporo dumped the snow they shoveled from the streets and around their homes. This snow was used to build snow sculptures. Today, teams from countries, regions, and cities around the world participate and compete in creating snow sculptures. This year's International Snow Sculpture Contest champion was Finland with their beautiful and intricate design. We walked a few blocks away and found the ice sculpture contests.
    The amount of tourists was almost as amazing as the sculptures themselves!!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    2View of Niseko at nightmore snow!1View from our room in Jozankeiour private onsenJapanese dinner

    Jozankei Hot Springs

    Feb 4–6 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Did I "heart" Niseko? I loved the food and that's important! Niseko is a busy and well designed ski resort in Japan. period. If you are looking for good snow (lots of snow), great ski runs and fun apres ski this is your place. I wasn't there for the skiing, but I did appreciate the heated sidewalks taking you through town, the multiple restaurants to choose from and the lovely onsens. David loved all the powder and the mountain! He especially loved his last ski day since they were finally able to groom some of the runs.
    Now....do I "heart" Jozankei Onsen? Yes! This hot spring town is located inside Shikotsu-Toya National Park between the high cliffs of the Toyohira River. It is absolutely enchanting and quiet in the winter.
    Our traditional Japanese hotel serves us two traditional meals a day with unlimited onsen access - there's even one in our room!
    This is a perfect two day stop before we drive to our final destination - Sapporo!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    Otura streets
    2Otura Harbor1loaded snow supports!11coastline1

    Niseko Ski Village

    Jan 30–Feb 4 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °F

    With having a rental car, comes freedom! We both love getting in the car and exploring unfamiliar roads and the countryside - and that is what we've done for the past two days.
    Two days ago, we found our way to the Otura Canal. Otura is a small port town that converted the old warehouses that lined the canal into restaurants and shops. This is where we found the Otura Brewery (founded by a German in 1995) and our first robot waiter. I love it! So efficient, clean, polite and best of all, doesn't require a shift drink...ha! And the dunkel craft brew was delicious.
    Yesterday, we drove Route 229 along the western Oshima Peninsula. This route runs along the coast and is known for its high concentration of tunnels - almost 27 miles of tunnels. And what's a road trip without wondering if you should have taken that last left turn? We found ourselves on high mountain snow covered roads (aka the "Quickest Route" on Google Maps). The nice part was that there was NO traffic. For many miles. And that we had 4WD and 1/4 tank of gas. Luckily, the ski mountain came into view so we knew we were close...just taking the back way.
    Another wave of winter storms are predicted to drop a few more feet of snow over the next 3 days, so now it's all about skiing the fresh powder and trying out the local hot springs.    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
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    Rusutsu

    Jan 27–30 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °F

    When David sent me a pic of a building on Rusutsu Mtn with the Steamboat logo, I had to learn more!
    Fun Fact: Rusutsu Resort in Hokkaido, Japan, and Steamboat Ski Resort in Colorado share a deep, historic connection through Kamori Kanko Co., Ltd., which owned both properties in the early 1990s. This relationship, which included significant on-hill investments by Kamori in Colorado, was rekindled in 2015 with a partnership offering reciprocal lift ticket benefits for season passholders. The first intermountain pass perhaps??
    We did not expect to find such a great mountain in this small, sleepy village. And I mean SMALL. Sitting at the base of 3600 ft volcano, it's surrounded by diakon farms and small dairy markets, this mountain gets an average of 552 inches a year! David loved it!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
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    2Olympic Ski Jump1

    Planes, Trains and a Rental Car

    January 26 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °F

    I couldn't help myself - even though our trip from Hakuba to Rusutsu didn't include a train ride, we weren't quite sure how or when we were going to make it out of Hakuba. There was so much snow on the ground that most of the trains weren't running and our flight from Matsumoto to Sapporo was inches of snow away from being canceled. In fact, two days before we flew into Sapporo all departing flights were cancelled and videos of the airport showed the floors covered with people waiting to get out of Sapporo. But everything worked out just as planned!
    So...after 5 days of watching record breaking snow fall, spending a few hours of soaking in the relaxing onsens, and listening to David complain about the slopes having too much snow (ha!) we left Hakuba and made our way to the northernmost part of Japan, Hokkaido. Known for its volcanos, onsens, ski runs and the Sapporo Snow festival (which we will get to next week), from what we've seen so far, it is just beautiful. We're looking forward to it's seafood, famous miso ramen and more epic days spent on the slopes (and in the hot springs).    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
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    1Our Hotel in Hakuba2Hotel LobbyView from breakfastSerious snow removal!We found some german comfort food!

    Hakuba - host of the 1998 Winter Olympic

    Jan 22–26 in Japan ⋅ 🌫 19 °F

    We've been in Hakuba for 3 days and since the day we arrived, it has not stopped snowing! This is great for the 10 ski resorts in this valley, but not good for pictures. The clouds are low, so I only have a few pics of snow falling and flocked trees...and of course, food. I asked David to take photos while he's on the mountain today :)
    He has reported that the slopes are great and there are a lot of different terrains to choose from. Each of the ten resorts offer something different: some are know for their tree runs, some are more family friendly and others are just steep and deep. With 24" of fresh snow that has fallen in the last 24 hours, he's heading to the Cortina Resort today. This is where all the shuttle drivers are saying will be the best!
    And I can report that the onsens are delightful! I am almost finished my book and am about out of my favorite tea, so tomorrow I will be cross country skiing the 1998 Olympic Ski Track. The Snow Harp Nordic Skiing facility in Hakuba hosted the Cross Country Skiing and Nordic Combined events in the 1998 Nagano Olympics. I'll let you know my time!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    Inarni Gates
    Map of our walkView from the top2Should you not sit because of the spikes or are the spikes there so you do not sit???please!

    Our last day in Kyoto

    January 21 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 36 °F

    Our last day was perfect for a visit to Fushimi Inari Taisha, the head of all of Japan's Inari shrines. Well according to David, since he was in charge of sight seeing in Kyoto. I, on the other hand, had absolutely no idea where we were going and what we were about to do - walk to the top of Mt. Inari through 10,000 torii gates and up 12,000 steps. This seemingly endless path of vibrant orange torii gates that line the approach to Mt. Inari was an impressive setting! I had to believe it was also very special to be the only two visitors on certain sections of this path. Once we reached the top, we were rewarded with a great view of Kyoto...not to mention the many available ice cream stops along the way! The rest of the day was up to me. What should we do after a 3 hour walk up 12,000 steps? An aromatherapy foot massage of course!
    We also continued checking the weather throughout the day and were convinced that we made a wise decision to stay in Kyoto that extra night. As it turned out, all the trains to Kanazawa were cancelled because of wind and snow. And the snow forecast for Hakuba increased to 14" for Saturday. Ja-POW!!!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    2A temple completely covered in pure gold1Rickshaw cheesy tourist moment2An ancient shrine that David claims he did not see ALL the "no photos" signssnow forecastJa-Pow!

    Another day in Kyoto

    January 20 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Flexibility and awareness are two important traits to practice on a trip like this one. We can't forget that it is January in Japan (and that Ja - POW is the main reason for this visit...I kinda forgot too). For example, we had train seats and a hotel booked for a night in Kanazawa, but a quick glance at weather underground showed a foot of snow forecasted for that region. Freezing temps and a blizzard versus 40's and partly sunny? We quickly pivoted and extended our stay in Kyoto for an other night. And I'm glad we did! It gave us another full day of exploring this historic City - and we dove right in with a rickshaw tour of Kiyomizu - dera temple. Don't scoff at the cheesy-ness until you try it! The day continued with a whirlwind of taxis and walking tours of as many major temples and shrines our feet could handle. And, before we knew it, it was time for dinner! You have to know that all we talk about on taxis rides between these beautiful attractions is where we want to go for dinner. Tonight, we chose a fine meal of Teppanyaki Kobe beef. Well deserved after a full day of exploring Kyoto!Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    Kyoto alleyway
    Kamo River1

    Kyoto!

    Jan 19–22 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We arrived at the Odawara train station yesterday and waited for our shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. While we were waiting, one zipped by without a warning! We looked at each other and said, "did you see that!" It was quickest spike of adrenaline we had felt in a long time - and we were only watching from the station platform. I'll attach a video of our train arriving. I wasn't quick enough to pull out my phone and film one going by (their typical service speeds are from 177 - 200mph...that's fast!).
    So in just a few hours, we arrived at Kyoto Station. We checked in to our Hotel at 2:30 and were on the streets by 3:00.
    Kyoto is most known for its temples and shrine, which close around 4, so we walked to the closest, Yasaka Shrine. We were a little surprised to see food vendors inside the entrance, but that didn't stop us from grabbing a snack! We shared what looked like a fluffy pancake sandwich filled with bean paste and it was to die for (I was starved, but I would get another!). Our first Shrine did not disappoint. Especially when we decided to keep walking up the stone pathways and many steps to Chorakuji Temple (founded in 805). After countless steps, we were awarded with spectacular views of downtown Kyoto.
    We ended our first day with a pour of Japanese whiskey on the top floor of our Hotel.    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
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    Hakone

    January 18 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Yesterday, on our way to Kyoto, we spent the night in Hakone. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to visit Lake Ashi and see the iconic red torii gate, but we did stay in a traditional Japanese ryokan. This immersion was complete with tatami mats, hot springs and elaborate multi course kaiseki meals. I’m sure I tied my yukata robe incorrectly and my onsen etiquette may have been lacking, but when it came to our meals we just dug right in! If I had no idea what was on the plate in front of me, I trusted David’s taste buds on the unidentifiable. As most of you know, he’ll try anything!
    It was a lovely visit-the complete opposite of our last 5 days in Tokyo!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler

    Last day in Tokyo

    January 18 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 41 °F

    We spent our last full day in Tokyo enjoying mid-60 degree temps and sunny skies. It was a perfect day to finish the walking tour through the Imperial Gardens and to eat our way through the famous Tsukiji fish market.
    It's now time to move on! We consistently get to this point after spending 4 full day in a major metropolitan district. The people, the sounds, the high pace energy of it all is thrilling (especially coming from sleepy Ridgway), but the thrill eventually exhausts the two of us. We are looking forward to seeing the countryside and soaking in Hakone's onsens!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    Crazy Cat themeCat Tail Donuts1David loves Cat Tail DonutsPrepared Shuba ShubaBuddhist TempleYanaka Cemetery1Yakatori Dinner1Fabric!2Shibuya Crossing2

    Yanaka Food Tour and a surprise find!

    January 16 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    We were delighted by a culinary and historic tour in Tokyo's most traditional district of Yanaka. It was spared from bombing in WWII and is now known for its wide artisans filled streets, Buddhist temples, great restaurants and traditional matcha tea ceremonies. Side note - many of the 60 restaurants in Yanaka Ginza have an odd cat theme. According to our guide, many cats would hang around Yanaka and in its temples, but no one could explain why. Hmmm. All of the food vendors served delicious and traditional bites (all identifiable if you were wondering about the cats - just saying) and our guide was very knowledgable, but the matcha tea ceremony was something extra special! After a sit down lunch of shabu shabu, we entered a four generational, family owned Antique store for a traditional matcha tea ceremony. This family's history includes nine generations of Samurai members! We sipped matcha from 300 year old antique bowls and left with a feeling of harmony and tranquility just as this ceremony is meant to fill your soul. The tour ended with a peaceful walk through Tokyo's largest and oldest cemetery located on Cherry Blossom Lane.
    Now for the unexpected find! As we were saying goodbye to our guide, he says, "If you are interested in fabric, Yanaka has an impressive Fabric District just one block that way." Ha - he had no idea! There were blocks of stores filled with bolts of beautiful fabric from Italy, France and Japan. (because of the size of my carry on, I'm only bringing home two beautiful yards of Japanese silk). And once again, David was a good sport :)
    We finished the day with traditional Yakatori, but wait...the day wasn't over!
    It was my turn to be a good sport and participate in the World's largest tourist attraction (I wont call it a trap because it's free) - Shibuya Crossing. One of the world's busiest and most iconic pedestrian intersections, nicknamed the "Scramble" due to thousands of people crossing from all directions at once in organized chaos (not really), symbolizing Tokyo's vibrant, fast-paced energy, immense crowds, and modern urban life, often featured in films, music, and media with its huge video screens and neon lights. You'll just have to watch the video to understand!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    1Ryōgoku Sumo Hall
    1Sumo!Inside Tokyo StationTokyo Station4Imperial Palace MoatImperial Palace MoatImperial ParkJR West Train Map - see ALL the stops?Our view inside the train for 60 minutes1Sashimi!More yummy ramen for lunch12

    Grand Sumo Wrestling Tournament!

    January 15 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Yesterday may been the highlight of our trip! (I know, we're only three days in!)
    Our Hotel is located on the back side of Tokyo Station, so we had not walked through to the front entrance until yesterday. It was a completely different view and vibe. And we had no idea how close we were to the Imperial Palace until we exited the front entrance of the train station! It actually was the last thing we expected to see in the middle of downtown Tokyo. We took a short stroll to the Palace entrance that was surrounded by a moat and massive stone walls. Tours are available, so you know what that means....
    Remember how I mentioned David being a good sport and going with me to TeamLab? Well, it was my turn to go along with one of his ideas. Tokyo has a train route the circles the City - it takes about an hour to ride the entire length because of ALL THE STOPS. The ride to Ryogoku Stadium is only 2 stops from Tokyo traveling counter clockwise, but it is 27 stops traveling clockwise (not that I counted). We took the long way. It wasn't a scenic as we hoped except for all the people watching. And again, we were the only America's on the train for the entire trip :)
    Let's get to the F-U-N. Grand Sumo Wrestling Tournament Day 5. This country is crazy about Sumo. Not quite Super Bowl crazy, but close. And I get it...there are rituals that transforms this performance into an almost sacred competition. There's so much history in the costumes, the foot stomping - it's as if they are trying to psych out the other opponent with this spiritual tension before they start their powerful grappling. Our seats were great and I was able to ask a few questions through pointing and smiling with an old Japanese couple sitting beside me.
    After the long journey there, we grabbed a taxi back to the Hotel and treated ourselves to a fresh sashimi dinner. Another perfect day!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    Hozomon Gate
    Five Story PagodaSenso-ji TempleSenso-Ji TempleKaminarimon GateNakamise ShoppingTeamLab - crystal mazeTeamLab GardenFloating Lotus GardenYummy RamenFloating Lotus Garden

    Subways, TeamLab, Ramen and Temples

    January 14 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    Yesterday, we dipped our baby toe into public transportation with the subway. It's efficient (on time), cheap ($1 each way) and the stations are far enough apart to provide us with a short walking tour in between. It's apparent that it's a preferred mode of transportation with the locals - there were no other Americas where in the Stations or on the subway. Just our style :)
    Our short ride took us to Toyosu and into TeamLab Planets, an interactive art museum. This was totally my idea knowing that David would be a good sport, and he was - it was great! There were art spaces, gardens, we walked through water covered in fish projections and ended the afternoon with delicious ramen.
    A short walk back to the subway and we were heading to Asakusa to visit Tokyo's oldest temple, Senso-ji. What we found was not only beautiful architecture, but a lively cultural experience. Apparently, wearing kimonos is now very popular with young people. We saw so many that we had to wonder what was going on. It turns out that it's just a fad. Back to the historic part of the day - the temple, gardens, the incense, hearing the bells ringing, coin offerings being made for good fortune, the Gate, the 5 story pagoda and the busy market were just beautiful!
    After all of that, we were exhausted (and probably a little jet lagged). We took a nap and only had enough energy for a short walk to a local brewery for dinner. Sorry Denise- I was too tired to take pics of dinner.
    Today we are feeling great and heading out to the Ryōgoku Sumo Hall for Day 5 of the Grand Sumo Wrestling Tournament. I have NO idea what to expect, but that's the exciting part of traveling!    Read more

  • Jen SvensonWinter in JapanTraveler
    Our Taxi Driver
    Our luggage for 29 days!Soba noodles with tempura fish - yum!Tokyo Station1Sunrise view from our corner room in Tokyo

    Kon'nichiwa from Tokyo

    January 13 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    After a long travel day of unexpected delays (3 hours in Montrose) and surprise upgrades (free airport lounge visits in Seattle and Tokyo), we landed at 7pm in Haneda Airport. Customs was a breeze and our checked ski bag arrived...phew! And luckily, we remembered that long travel days always leave us feeling like zombies so we booked a taxi to take us to the Hotel. Our driver was the sweetest Japanese man! There wasn't much conversation, but a lot of pointing and smiling.
    Even though it was 9:00 by the time we unloaded our luggage and checked in, we were starved and needed a walk. A few steps from our Hotel is Tokyo Station - the only "Station - City" in the World. It boasts an area of 182,000 square meters, serving over 450,000 passengers every day - a perfect place for a quick bite and a little people watching. Our first bowl of soba noodles did not disappoint! And you can only guess that with a population of 14 million, Tokyo Station at night was busy.
    I think we got a decent lay out of this major hub (Tokyo Station's 28 platforms make it one of Japan's largest stations) - well, I hope so because today will be our first adventure. Wish us luck!    Read more

    Trip start
    January 13, 2026
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