Saint Jean de Luz

The nationalities at breakfast were French, German, Spanish, South Korean, and British of course. Then, soon into my walk, I got talking to a guy who was born in Morocco, nationalised in Italy but who now lives in France. I felt like I'd visited six countries in the space of one mile! I have spent a miniscule proportion of my time talking to people but they have definitely been the best moments, like diamonds in a gold ring.

It was dark and damp when I started walking and the rush hour(s) was just ramping up. It wasn't the prettiest walk through the conurbation but I still delight in seeing posters in another language or the queues at the boulangeries and stuff like that. I passed through Biarritz, which was not as pretty as I'd imagined, and then BOOM! I was in Switzerland-On-Sea. There were hills (very steep to walk up), green pastures, timbered houses, a mountain backdrop, but also this amazing ocean. This area is drop dead gorgeous! OK there is a reason the pastures are green and I am seeing it in full blue sky bloom but I can imagine it looking equally beautiful in a storm. I'll probably feel different after a few days of walking up and down those conversation killing, knee buckling hills while the rain is running down my back, but at the moment this area is highly recommended. Or maybe I should recommend the Basque country on the Spanish side because a French guy agreed with me today that France is very expensive.

Photos - I really had to edit these with an axe because I took too many...the coast, Bidart (most houses here look like that (timbered, white and maroon), man jumps off cliff, the old laundry, a beautiful lake in the middle of the conurbation.Read more