Zafra - Villafranca de los Barros 20km

After a surprisingly good sleep I got up and had breakfast (yoghurt and banana) and set off about 0630, it was still dark though dawn was getting earlier, but I remembered the way out of Zafra and it was very clearly marked. So, I wasn't worried about getting lost, and thus far the VDLP app GPS had been accurate, that said I was always thankful when I saw a yellow arrow or official way marker.

I reached the top of the hill above Los Santos just as the sun was rising over the horizon. The walk to Villafranca was uneventful, part of the path was a bit flooded and muddy but other than that it was a nice walk, I met Keiko navigating the flooded bits, she had left Los Santos early, and also the Korean man whom I discovered had not one but two packs, one on his back and one in front. he also wore a white cotton thing that covered most of his face and neck, all you could see was his eyes, it looked strange. He walked quickly with his large mobile phone held out in front of him, he also was using a GPS trace to keep on the right path.

I had hoped to stop for a coffee at a village midway but it turned out to be a detour off the camino so I just kept going. I arrived in Villafranca around 11am to find that the albergue didn't open until 1pm, however the friendly hospitalero let me pick a bed and leave my mochila. I went out to a cafe in the plaza mayor and had coffee and a snack and then went to a supermarket for fresh supplies before they closed for siesta. I ended up buying some rolls and cooked meat and I had that for dinner later in the day.

The albergue is very nice, clean and modern and everything works, good showers too. Once I registered at the albergue I sorted my washing out, they had a washing machine and for a few euros the hospitalero would do your washing. Keiko and I put ours in a basket as we were together on the top floor. When I went to get it back he had lost the bottom half of my cut off trousers, it took him about 30 mins to find them, but it was good to get stuff washed in a machine. Normally you have to wash your clothes in a designated sink in cold water with a bar of soap...not great for technical fabrics. Not even Rohan gear can survive that for too long.

Villafranca is a nice town, but there's not much for a visitor to do and by 1400 everything is closed, except for a couple fo cafes. The church in the square was busy, it looked like there were a number of kids having their first communion/confirmation today, their families all dressed up in their Sunday best.

Back at the albergue I packed my bag for the next day, the walk tomorrow is a bit of a concern, it is 28 km with very long very straight sections following the old Roman road, but there is zero shade and the temperature is expected to be around 34° by mid-morning. Keiko was a bit worried about the heat and wanted to leave at 0500 and I couldn't let her go that early in the dark on her own so I agreed to go with her. So, I packed my bag and went to bed early.Read more