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  • Day 21

    Fuenterroble - Morille 33km

    May 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    I had a shower in the morning, for the second day running, what a treat. However, I woke up with a sore throat probably as a result of coughing most of the night, my first thought was covid but it felt very familiar, like an allergic reaction. I found out later that the hospitalera had cats, which I am very allergic to, so in some ways that was a relief. The two French ladies, Rita and myself got a lift part of the way from the hospitalera, which I was glad of as I felt a bit ropey and the distance was more than any of us felt able to walk at this point in our camino, and the temperature had risen sharply. Rita was staying at an albergue in San Pedro de Rozados and I walked on another 5km to the albergue in Morille.

    The walk to Morille was uneventful, but pleasant, a few cyclists passed me with cries of buen camino! Morille is another very small village, with a church, an albergue and a café. I had to sign in and pay at the bar, the barman never checked my passport or did anything other than give me the form to fill in myself. It may have been because he did not know any English, but his demeanour was quite surly and unfriendly. I walked back to the albergue and sorted out my stuff, and get my washing done. I decided to forego another shower as the shower/toilet block was communal and there was no privacy screen in the showers, I'm no prude but I do think people deserve basic privacy, and it wasn't just me, I know that some of the young women were not happy about the shower arrangements.

    The albergue was not the worst I had been in but that's not saying much, it was basic and lacking in both facilities and charm. It was also packed, one French guy turned up quite late and was not happy that all the bottom bunks were already taken, he got into an argument about it with another Spanish peregrino. I didn't need to speak Spanish or French to know how that conversation was going. However, the Spanish guy looked like he could eat the French guy for breakfast so it ended pretty quickly. It was the one and only time I saw an altercation between peregrinos on the camino.

    I went to bed excited for tomorrow, when I would walk into the great city of Salamanca where, with Rita's help, I had booked a nice (I hoped) hotel for two nights just a couple of minutes walk from the Plaza Mayor. I then walked back to the bar to get some dinner, there was already a good number of peregrinos eating there, so I checked out what was on their plates and ordered. Basically, chips, bacon and egg but it was filling and tasty - the downside was the slowness of service. However, the food was good and I went back to the albergue satisfied. I read for a while and then it was time for bed.
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