Salamanca to El Cubo

I awoke at 0530 after a great sleep, Last night I had put water and yoghurt in the mini fridge, so I had the yoghurt for breakfast and put the cold water in the bladder pack and set off. The first six or seven km out of Salamanca from the hotel is alongside a busy road, it is a dull and unpleasant walk, so I got a taxi to Aldeseca just outside the city and walked from there.

Two years ago I stopped in Calzada del Valdunciel and it was there that I met Anita and Mirjam, an event that would not only change my camino experience, it would change my life. Despite the wonderful memories, I didn't dawdle, the past is, as they say, another country and we can;t go back. On the camino, as in life itself, the only way is forward. I still had 20-23 km to go, and the path was quite exposed with a few ascents. It is a bit of a dull walk, huge flat fields on one side and a motorway about 20 metres away on the other side. The path mostly follows the course of the motorway, and occasionally a driver would toot their horn at they drove past, their way of saying buen camino.

I remember being absolutely shattered the last time I walked to El Cubo, and that was only from Calzada, but once again on this camino I felt fine this time round. The albergue had not changed a bit, I was the first to arrive and I paid my €32 which included a communal meal. and went and chose my bed. I got my washing done and hung out on the line, then a German woman (Marion) arrived and she took the other bed in the same room as me, fortunately she wasn't a snorer as the beds were only about a foot apart. She had thought I was the hospitalero, so I phoned him for her, she spoke little English and even less Spanish. Soon other pilgrims started to arrive, the place was filling up, I was glad I had had my shower and got the washing done. I also met a tall thin dutch lady called Jan, who naturally spoke impeccable English, and whom I would meet again and travel with for many days. The Spanish guy spoke Spanish.

I managed to find the tiny shop to get some more supplies, and then spent some time in the cafe before heading back for the communal meal, which was fabulous. Then, it was time for bed, I had packed my bag for an early start.Læs mere