• Ernest Shackleton- a hero! Stromness

    March 7, 2020 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    This am we had a lie in until 7am when the wake up call was made as we sailed in to Stromness Harbour.
    We woke to the sight of the Stromness Whaling station from our verandah with the most beautiful morning light.
    Breakfast was at 7.30am and the first 2 groups went ashore whilst the remaining 2 groups which included us had to stay on the boat until 10.15am as it was reportedly too windy to go zodiac cruising.
    At 9am Ed gave us a lecture on the history of Shackleton’s famous Endurance expedition which resulted in him walking into Stromness Bay whaling station after the most epic fest of strength and endurance.
    This whaling station enabled him to get help and rescue all 22 men he had left 4.5 months before on Elephant Island, 800 nautical miles away.
    Anyway at 10.15am we were first aboard the zodiac and dropped off on the shore amongst more fur seal pups.
    We were informed that the infamous waterfall that Shackleton, Crean snd Worsley had to negotiate before rescue, was a 45 min walk away one way and we only had 1 hour 45 mins before the last zodiac back to the boat at 12pm.
    Kate and I took off at a rate and negotiated hundreds of fur seal pups as we walked over beds of the most amazing iron rich rocks. Ahead of us were high hanging glaciers and finally just off to the left was the waterfall “ the boss” as Shackleton was informally known. We arrived sweaty and first there in a record 30 mins with Adrian one of the guides struggling to keep up- that’s what happens when you don’t give me enough time to honour one of my heroes!
    The trickle of a waterfall could be deemed an underwhelming sight but the fact it was so iconic to Shackletons Endurance adventure was really quite moving knowing he walked over the same ground.
    After a quiet little homage paid we hoofed to back to the abandoned whaling station to take photos.
    Sadly due to “ safety issues” we were not allowed within 200m of the actual buildings and structures. The huge propellers on the beach were like rusty stemless flowers, and made for good photos as did the hundreds of fur seal pups guarding the shoreline.
    There was also the odd king penguin and gentoo penguin amongst the seal pups.
    All too soon it was time to board the zodiac and head back to the ship for lunch. A change of clothes was also needed as it had been so hot this am walking in our layers and waterproofs we had sweated through every layer.
    Lunch was v nice and spent with Gary and Karina over looking the famous whaling station.
    At 1.30pm we upped anchor and headed out into the open water south to Grytviken.
    The next hour treated us to many sizeable icebergs floating past, a double rainbow and 60 knot wind gusts, so strong it was hard to stand up. We were mesmerised as we could see these wind gusts and williwaws making their way over the surface of the ocean, deafening us and blowing us off our feet as it reached us or we reached it.
    3.15pm we were suited and booted and lined up as second group to board the zodiac to go ashore.
    The boats were randomly assigned to either drop off at the museum or to the Whalers cemetery, where Shackletons grave and headstone is.
    Sadly K and I managed to get dropped off at the museum but I couldn’t contain my excitement any longer so we walked straight away over to the gravesite.
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