• Tamsin Gallie
  • Kate Saxton
  • Tamsin Gallie
  • Kate Saxton

Kate and Tamsin Trip 2019

Post Cancer "Fuck it" World Trip ticking off major ticket items - Trans Mongolian Railway, Russia, Bhutan, Italy etc
Moscow, Mongolia, Manchester and everywhere in between
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  • Punahka- sorry for the numerous posts

    3 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Yet another full and bountiful day.
    We started early after breakfast at 8am with an hours hike up to Khamsum Valley Namgyal Chorten. The trail passed through many rice fields and offered breathtaking views of the valley and Mo Chhu river. At the foot of the suspension bridge local adventure tourism providers were blowing up their rafts with foot pumps!!
    reaching the temple we came to a platform of serenity. Inside we learnt more of the Buddhist meanings of its murals etc before climbing 3 floors to the roof for 360 views of the paddy fields, river and valley. After 40 mins or so at the temple we descended the same way we came back to the car.
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  • Punahka Dzong

    3 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punakha_Dzong

    10 mins down the road which follows the Mo Chhu river we arrived at the Punakha Dzong/ Fortress we photographed at a distance yesterday.

    Another stunning experience with monks going about their business and lots of activity because the Chief Abbott ( the religious equivalent of the King) was in residence.Baca selengkapnya

  • Talo Village

    3 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After a disappointing lunch at “phallus village” ( only disappointing as we were expecting the restaurant to have phallus salt and pepper shakers etc of which there were none!) we drove 20 mins to Talo Village.
    This is an example of one of the oldest Bhutanese villages where all of the houses are made of wood, mud and stone and are traditionally built v close together so the neighbours could protect each other from forest predators..... today the only thing we needed protection from were 2 small boys from the village one of whom flashed us his Superman boxer shorts on several occasions!! He was about 5yrs old!! Hopefully not a sexual predator in the making!
    The village paths were so so steep I’m not sure how anyone gets up or down let alone carry groceries etc to their homes.
    A walk around was interesting but also felt a bit weird.
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  • Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery

    3 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    This beautiful nunnery is positioned atop one of the many valley hills and once up there we were assaulted by a fierce wind.
    However the noise of the wind through the tall prayer flags was something special.
    This nunnery had recently been closed for 3 months following the death of a ? Father in law of the king.
    All around the nunnery were huge wooden platforms in different states of being dismantled where huge public and private rituals have been conducted since his death.
    After visiting the nunnery and it’s crystal chandeliers ( sorry no photos can be taken inside) we descended back to the valley floor and visited the suspension bridge behind the fortress.
    K was v brave and managed to walk the full distance across and back again.
    Back to the hotel at 5pm and now off for dinner- it’s a hard life! To be fair we have done about 6000 stairs today!!!
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  • Punakha to Gangtey

    4 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    This am we checked out of Zhingkham Resort, Punakha after breakfast and drove 3hrs, through a stunning gorge, over an elevation of 3220m before dropping down into the Phobjikha Valley.
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phobjikha_Valley

    Gangtey is famous for the Black-necked cranes that migrate here from Tibet for the winter. Up to 450 of these rare and endangered birds flock here for the months of October- March.
    We visited the Black necked crane info centre run by the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature. Here we watched a video on these birds that stand 1.15m tall with a wing span of 2m.
    There are known locally as heavenly birds and songs about the birds are popular amongst locals.
    After lunch in a local restaurant we went for a v pleasant hours walk up to Gangte Goemba, a 450 yr old monastery complex. A lot of its intricate woodwork has been recently replaced but it’s 18 pillar prayer hall was another colourful sight to behold.
    By now it was 4.30pm and we were dropped back to the v nice Dewachen Hotel for the night.
    Tmrw it’s a 5 hour drive to Trongsa and more sightseeing.
    Oh and we saw 2 x black necked cranes that flew in 2 days ago... they r a bit late this year!
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gangteng_Monastery
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  • Trongsa part 1

    5 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We left Gangtey and the black necked cranes at 8am for the 4 hour drive over Pele La pass and into Trongsa.
    We reached a max elevation of 3400m today which meant the temperature dropped quite significantly. However the big yak bull with its thick woolly coat didn’t seem to mind.
    Coming into Trongsa K spotted 4 monkeys in a tree which turned out to be the rare Golden Langur. ( sadly no photos on the phone as the zoom isn’t that long)
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gee's_gold…

    Arriving into Trongsa which is perched on the side of the gorge high above the Mangde Chhu River, we checked into our hotel Yangkhil Resort- another v nice accommodation where we had the best Bhutanese lunch yet.

    Trongsa is a historically important junction town on the only West-East trade route in Bhutan. Traditionally all merchants and anyone passing west to east or vice versa had to pass through the Dzong which dominated the town and pay any taxes that were due!!

    After lunch we visited the Watch tower/ museum and the the Trongsa Dzong.
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  • Trongsa - Part 2

    5 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The Watch Tower museum was v nicely laid out and took a good hour to go around.

    After which we were driven down the hill and spent another hour or so watching the monks being called to study, and taking photos of more intricate wood work that adorned the buildings within the formidable Dzong/ Fortress.

    The information we are given each day re Buddhism and it’s principles are fascinating and make for a very sensible way of life.
    However when being educated about the wheel of life I had to take a step back when being told that one realm was called “ the hungry ghost”- I think I may have previously spent some time here as it explains why I always carry spare food with me wherever I go!!!

    Tmrw it’s an early start to drive to Bumthang where we are hoping to catch the last day of a festival.

    https://www.bhutan.travel/destinations/trongsa

    https://bhutanculturalatlas.clcs.edu.bt/1220/cu…
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  • Bumthang- Festival

    6 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This am we left Trongsa early at 7am for the 2.5 hr drive over the pass and through the Chhume Valley.
    The reason for the early departure was to attend the 3 day Jakar Taechu ( festival) at the Jakar Dzong.
    What an amazing sight and a total treat as we didn’t realise it was on until yesterday.
    We arrived at the Dzong courtyard which was already packed at 9.30am with locals in their best outfits and jewellery including the cutest little kids in traditional dress.
    We spent a couple of hours trying to photograph the masked dancers and spectators whilst being embarrassed by some abhorrent behaviour of some of the other tourists- one woman was asked by the policeman to move her chair back to make room for the local to sit to which she questioned him and then refused, and one man who had set up his camera on a tripod in a prime spot refused to move, then was made to let a local family put their mat down... and then he proceeded to kneel back down on it!!!
    Once the dancers gave way to the locals queuing to receive their blessings we decided to leave as we were just in the way.
    What a spectacle... next off to some more temples
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  • Bumthang Temples and Museum

    6 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    After the incredibly colourful festival we visited Jambay Lhakhang- one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. This was followed by
    Kurje Lhakhang where Guru Rinpoche left a body print whilst meditating- long story re Buddhist history in Bhutan.
    We then had lunch before driving a further, and v windy 1.5 hours through the forested valley to a Private museum - Ogyen Choling. This was full of artefacts from life before the social reform of the 1950’s.
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  • Bumthang Festival- Wall Hanging

    7 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Up at 5am to head back up the the Dzong/ Fortress for the unveiling of the huge embroidered wall hanging which is said to wash away ur sins when viewed- K is still up there!!
    I will let the photos speak for themselves. Now having brekkie before heading back up for more festivitiesBaca selengkapnya

  • Change of plans - landed in Paro

    7 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    After this morning’s amazing festival we enjoyed breakfast and had planned to go back for more festivities once the hoardes of locals had received their blessings.
    However we were then informed our 07.55am flight tmrw from Bumthang to Paro had been changed to 15.30pm.
    This poses quite an issue because despite this being a 35min flight for us, our driver and guide have to drive the car 10 hours back to Paro. They had planned to leave us at the festival and then the hotel were to drive us to the airport in the am. However we did not want to miss a whole days activities in Paro tmrw.
    After 3 visits to the airport, a trip to town to find the Druk Air office ( a door with a phone number on it) and buggering around for 3 hours we were left at the airport clutching boarding passes whilst the guide and driver drove off with our bags ( we could get plane seats but no weight for our bags!!).
    We had the best 30 min Druk Air flight Bumthang to Paro and we were kindly picked up by another guide who dropped us up to our hotel just behind the airport.
    Now waiting for dinner with a Druk 11000 beer whilst trying to sort out trip to UK - God Help us.... or maybe Buddha may bless us with cheap accomodation and transport and no annoyances!!
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  • Paro

    8 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We started off the day with a short drive out of Paro to a small village and a monastery that was mostly demolished in a fire ( Drukgyel Dzong) There was a working gang of locals working to restore the monastery with its 2m thick walls, some splitting rocks, some sorting into piles, women carrying bags of gravel on their backs to mix with the cement etc etc. it is expected to be finished by the end of 2022- all funded by the government to preserve its culture and history.
    Next it was off to Kyichu Lhakhang- the oldest and most sacred temple in the Bhutan which houses a 7th century idol of Future Buddha.
    After this we went to the National Museum which housed a superb collection of traditional masks and specimens of Bhutanese Flora and Fauna.
    It was originally housed in a conch shaped watch tour but this was affected by the 2011 earthquake so it was moved I to the new building we visited today. We were treated to great views over Paro before we headed to town for lunch.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drukgyal_Dzong
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  • Paro - Part 2

    8 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    After another lovely Bhutanese lunch it was a walk up to the Rinpung Dzong.
    This is the main Dzong in Paro and has more great views over the valley and surrounding mountains.
    Hem taught us more about the Circle of Life which is a very interesting pictorial representation about how we should live life and the path to enlightenment to prevent continuous rebirth.
    After our time at the Dzong it was a walk through town and back up to the hotel- watching the locals continue to cultivate their rice paddies and harvest their hay aswell as watching the planes land and take off from the airport!!
    Now about to have dinner and prepare for the gruelling climb to Tigers Nest Monastery in the am.

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rinpung_Dzong
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  • Tigers Nest Monastery

    9 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This am we hiked up to the picturesque Tigers Nest Monastery- the iconic visual Bhutan is famous for.
    Perched high on a cliff edge is a complex of temples to celebrate the story of Guru Rinpoche.

    We reached the monastery in 2 hours of uphill slog ( with some downhill steep steps before climbing again to the first temple).
    An hour was spent exploring the 7 temple complex including the cave where the Guru was said to have meditated for 3 months.
    It was then a 1.5 hour descent back to the car park.
    U can actually get a horse half way up but we decided we needed the walk!!

    Now back at the hotel before tonight’s visit to a local family for archery, hot stone bath and dinner!!

    https://www.earthtrekkers.com/ultimate-guide-hi…
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  • "Village Visit" Bhutanese style

    9 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Not keen fans of the village visit, tonight’s activities didn’t really help.
    We arrived at a family property just outside of Paro and spent an awkward 10 Mins as we were “dressed” in traditional Kira dress- yes we know we look ridiculous.
    Next it was off for a spot of archery in the front yard- K was disappointed as the target was only 5m away whereas in Mongolia she hit the target 30m away.
    It was actually quite enjoyable and wasted some time whilst our “ hot stone bath” was being prepared.
    Basically rocks are heated to a v high temp whilst baths that look like a cattle shed are filled with cold water. The hot stones are then dropped into the water from outside and they heat the baths to a v high temp.
    We spent an hour soaking in the baths inside the stone type cattle shed but it def soothed the sore muscles from this am.
    Next it was back into the house for a slightly awkward pre dinner drink Ara ( a local rice wine) before having a mea cooked by the family. Luckily we were joined by an Italian, Francesca who was also on a Raven Tour.
    Finally got home at 8pm.
    Tmrw we r off to the Haa Valley over a 4000m Pass- higher than Mt Cook!!
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  • Haa Valley and a drive to 4000m

    10 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Bearing in mind Mt Cook is 3724m in height today we drove over Chele La Pass that is nearly 4000m above sea level!!
    We started the morning with a trip to the stunning Kila Gompa, the oldest nunnery in Bhutan. The building wedged between the cliffs near Chele La is home to about 50 nuns.
    The nuns were hard at work carrying a railing to be constructed so we didn’t hang around too long.
    Next it was off to the highest point over the pass which is marked with hundreds of prayer flags and the most stunning view of Jomolhari , a majestic mountain standing at 7326m.
    It remains one of the highest mountains claiming to be unclimbed as the Bhutanese government see it as Sacred and do not allow anyone to climb it in order to preserve it and stop it being turned into another Everest.
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jomolhari
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  • Haa Valley and 4000m- part 2

    10 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Whilst at the highest point at Chele La pass we came across 4 monks conducting a ritual ceremony with chanting and the burning of a large fire for purification. This was quite a sight.
    Next it was a v windy descent into Haa Valley where we had lunch. After which we visited our last Bhutanese temple- Dzongdrakha Gompa.
    Inside the temple the monks were carrying out a ritual chant with drums and horns which was quite mesmerising and a nice way to finish off our trip to Bhutan.
    After the 2.5 hr drive back over the pass we said goodbye to our guide Hem who has been great.
    Tmrw we have a lift to the airport for our 16.10 pm flight to Bangkok and that will be the end of Bhutan for us.
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  • Bhutan to Bangkok

    11 November 2019, Bhutan ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    We have had a bit of a productive but uninspiring day today.
    Our flight from Paro to Bangkok wasn’t until 16.10pm so we managed to arrange a late check out seeing our tour effectively finished yesterday.
    We spent the morning trying to plan and book travel in the UK- without getting frustrated at the prices of everything (£140 to add an additional driver to a weeks hire car- WTF??!!)
    By 2pm we had made necessary headway and booked several train tickets ( for one journey as it’s 25% cheaper even though it’s on the same trains!) blah blah blah
    The highlight of the day was flying over the Himalayas on the way south to Badogra ( just over Indian border where we touched down) before it got dark as we headed to Bangkok.
    Now back at our cheap little Lilac Hotel by the airport before needing to check in at 9pm local time tmrw for our flight to Heathrow.
    Sadly this part of our travels is now over but we have had the most amazing time- not looking forward to sorting through 10,000 photos!!
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  • Bangkok to UK - preparation

    12 November 2019, Thailand ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    Really nothing to report today unless you wanted photos of K shaving her legs posted- nope didn’t think so.
    Spent the day at Lilac Relax Residence repacking, decluttering now defunct paperwork, assimilating SIM cards etc

    https://www.lilac-suvarnabhumi.com/en-gb- yep it’s all lilac throughout!!
    I just added the third photo for a laugh!!
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  • Slight change in flight times

    13 November 2019, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    .... and here we are in Manchester!!!
    Thai air changed our flight times but at least sent an email. We got the free transport from our accommodation in Bangkok , checked in at the airport and tonight found ourselves checking into an apartment in Manchester at 7pm for the night!! Not sure whether we r coming or going- hence the emergency photos!!
    Finally K’s fave sporks are no more!! They were the best 50p from a car boot sale in Cornwall before we left for Russia.
    The Marlborough Sav Blanc was sooo good and v much appreciated.
    The Xmas lights are a little confronting but pleasant to look at in Piccadilly Gardens in Manchester- we just can’t believe we r here!!
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  • Manchester!!!- its bitterly cold!!

    14 November 2019, Inggris ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    Started the day early with an eye test and having to make hundreds of decisions re new glasses!
    Then there was a fab reunion with Sonia in Chorlton before catching the number 86 bus back into town for wedding outfit shopping.
    Happy memories as we bolted around Afflecks Palace for old times sake.
    There are soo many sequins in the shops but all just too revealing and too short for the wind chill factor.
    6pm and it was off to the Manchester Art Gallery wedding venue for planning before a pie and a pint in The Bank pub.
    Now off to bed with a full day tmrw and hopefully purchasing some shoes otherwise it will be walking shoes at the wedding!

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Afflecks

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchester_Art_…

    https://www.visitmanchester.com/food-and-drink/…
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