Camino de Santiago 2023

mayo - junio 2023
  • Julio Brandão
My first journey on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. 36 days walking on the Camino Francês from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela in the spring of 2023. Leer más
  • Julio Brandão

Lista de países

  • España España
  • Francia Francia
Categorías
Mochilero*a, Cultura, Senderismo, Autodescubrimiento, Espiritualidad
  • 772kilómetros recorridos
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  • 56huellas
  • 40días
  • 520fotos
  • 0Me gusta
  • Pont sur la Nive
    Porte de la CitadelleBureau des PelerinsLa meilleure gaufre de tous les tempsDîner au Gîte de la Porte Saint Jacques

    Saint Jean Pied de Port

    1 de mayo de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Arrival at Saint Jean Pied de Port, still absorbing all that was happening. I was worried about finding the pilgrim's office, the albergue and buying a pair of sticks. But in the end, they were all just a few meters away from each other, on the main street of the Citadelle, the oldest part of the village. La Citadelle is a fortification built in the Middle Ages to protect the surrounding villages. It has a medieval appearance, narrow cobblestone streets, a large gate at the entrance and large walls surrounding it. We can also see a beautiful bridge over the Nice River and the ruins of their old castle.
    After a walk through the charming village of Saint Jean, the day ended with a dinner at the albergue with the other pilgrims. We talked about the Camino, about expectations, and we also introduced ourselves. Everything was new to me.
    Oh, I cannot forget to mention the amazing waffle I had there. It was simply the best waffle I have ever had. I will never forget it.
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  • Premiers pas.

    Day 01 - Saint Jean -> Orisson

    2 de mayo de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    “Take all your expectations and desires that you brought with you and leave them behind, open your mind and your heart, and just live the Camino”.
    This phrase is part of a blessing that was given after breakfast in the albergue and stayed with me throughout the Camino. It was a kind way of wishing us a good start to our journey.
    Finally, the long-awaited day had come. I was there, ready to take my first steps. From that moment on I was literally on the Camino. The feeling was very good, and I had the feeling that I was ready, and that I could do it.
    Although the first stage was only 8 km from Saint Jean to Orisson, I was not worried. I was the last one to leave the albergue at 9 am, very relaxed and taking my time. I took advantage of the moment to enjoy the village a little more. I went to the church for a prayer and walked through the narrow streets.
    The landscape from Saint Jean to Orisson was very beautiful. It's the beginning of the climb to the Pyrenees Mountains. Besides the nature and the views, you can see flocks of sheep and wild horses free in nature. The way wasn’t too difficult, but the climb was steep.
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  • Santé!

    Refuge Orisson, Uhart-Cize

    2 de mayo de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I decided to stay in Orisson because I wanted to have an easier start to my Camino. The idea was to divide the 26 km stage from Saint Jean to Roncesvalles into two parts. The other reason was the unique opportunity to spend a night in the Pyrenees.
    I enjoyed the afternoon relaxing, drinking wine and enjoying the beautiful view. In the evening, as is the tradition at the Refuge Orisson, we had dinner with all the other pilgrims staying at the Albergue. There were about 40 people from all over the world.
    After the food and the wine, and some conversation, one by one, we began to introduce ourselves, telling the group why we decided to do the Camino, and what our expectations were. Some of the motivations mentioned were really touching. It was a very nice way to close this first day.
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  • Lever De Soleil à Couper Le Souffle.
    Les PyrénéesLa Vierge de BiakorriForêt à Roncevaux

    Day 02 - Orisson -> Roncesvalles

    3 de mayo de 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    One of the most anticipated moments for me. Crossing the Pyrenees, a mountain range that forms a natural border between France and Spain.
    After being treated to a breathtaking sunrise, I started climbing of the Pyrenees. The feeling along the Pyrenees was amazing. I can remember of the green fields, the clear and light blue sky, the strong wind that cut my face, the group of sheep and the wild horses, over a thousand meters of altitude. Although the sky was clear, we could see far away, the whole mountain range. I was in the middle of the way, enjoying the view, the sun, the sky, and the strong wind that cut through the mountains.
    On the Spanish side of the Pyrenees the landscape begins to change. The descent to Roncesvalles is through a forest that reminded me of movies from Middle Ages.
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  • Iglesia de SantiagoCapilla del Sancti SpiritusColegiata de Roncesavalles

    Real Colegiata de Roncesvalles

    3 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The Colegiata of Roncesvalles was so big and beautiful. Next to the church there is a huge albergue for more almost two hundred pilgrims.
    After I checked in, had a shower, and washed my clothes, I went out to explore the places around the Colegiata. I was just walking down the street in Roncesvalles when I heard someone say: “Hey Julian”. It was my new friend from New Zealand, whom I had met the night before at dinner in Orisson. He was a man of almost 70 years old. I sat with him and two German guys, and we had a couple of beers before dinner.
    After dinner, at 8 pm, I went to the mass. This mass is the one that the pilgrims like and wait for the most. Because Roncesvalles is the starting point for many pilgrims and because at the end of the mass the priest blesses the pilgrims in different languages. Before going to bed, I until had time to meet Jürgen, a very funny German who lives in Switzerland.
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  • BURGUETEIglesia de San Nicolás de BariLa primera Tortilla.LINZOÁINZUBIRI

    Day 03 – Roncesvalles -> Zubiri

    4 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The first day in the agricultural region of Navarre. A 21.5 km stage to Zubiri. I was a little worried about this day because many pilgrims had talked about the difficulty of finding a place in the albergues from the beginning of the Camino. The one in Roncesvalles was completely full, although it had 183 places. While I was walking, I called three different albergues in Zubiri, to ask for a place. But in all of them there were no places. In the last one, the man who attended me, suggested that I ask again later, when I arrived in the village, because sometimes there are cancelations. I tried not to think about it too much and just enjoy the walk.
    In this part of the Camino, we cross some small farms with animals and green lands. The villages are so beautiful, with houses and the churches made of stone. The path has a lot of ups and downs, and sometimes crosses the road that I had passed through 3 days before, from Pamplona to Saint Jean Pied de Port. Along the way you can find places to stop, rest, go to the bathroom, and eat and drink something. I took the opportunity to try my first tortilla, with a fresh orange juice. It was delicious.
    I arrived in Zubiri around 3 pm. We entered the village through an old medieval bridge, over a small river with crystal clear water and many small stones covering the riverbed. The albergue that I had called was just right after the bridge, next to the river. I went there and asked for a place to stay and the son of the man who I spoke to earlier was there for me. Fortunately, he told me that they'd had a cancellation about 15 minutes before, so I got a place.
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  • Río Arga
    La cena. Salud!

    Zubiri

    4 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Zubiri is a small and enchanted village, with the Arga River giving it a special charm. At the end of the afternoon, you can see many people at the edge of the river enjoying the sun and wetting their feet in the cold water.
    After checking in and taking a shower, I went out to get something to eat. Since the village was small, there were not many places to eat. I found a small restaurant and I went there. In this restaurant I met Assad, a very funny Brazilian who lives in California, USA.
    After lunch I took the opportunity to visit the rest of the village. On my way back to the albergue I stopped at the edge of the river to enjoy the end of the afternoon and drink some wine that I had bought in a small market. There, I found Nelson, a Portuguese whom I had met two days before in Saint Jean. We got to talk more about ourselves and our plans for the Camino. I also met Louise from Australia. I remembered that she and her young sister had introduced themselves at the dinner in Orisson two nights before.
    It was a great time in Zubiri.
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  • ILARRATZLa AbadíaESKIROTZLARRASOAÑASanduiche de Chistorra, ZURIÁINZURIÁINARREPAMPLONA

    Day 04 – Zubiri -> Pamplona

    5 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I left the albergue just before 6 am, before sunrise. The way was the same as the day before, with ups and downs and lots of houses and some churches, all made of stone. It was at this point that I began to realize that to start walking early meant enjoying the sunrise every day. It was amazing.
    After passing through four villages, I stopped to eat something in Zuriáin. It was there that I met Eva. Although she had lived in Germany for 20 years, she was originally from the Czech Republic. As I was leaving the place, Eva was also leaving. We started walking together and talking about the Camino. She told me that she liked Brazilian music like Cesária Évora. I smiled and said that Cesária Évora was a Portuguese singer, not Brazilian. We both started laughing. Eva had a dark and short hair and a beautiful smile. She was reserved, but funny and smart. We talked, smiled, listened to Brazilian music (the real one) on our cell phones, she pretended to dance. She was a very nice company. After about three hours we stopped to rest and then we followed separately.
    At that time, I was not far from Pamplona. A few kilometers ahead I found Jürgen, the funny German guy from Roncesvalles. He was with a small group walking fast to get to the Pamplona Municipal Albergue early to get a place. I followed them and got there before 1 pm and we all got a place to stay.
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  • Murallas de Pamplona
    Albergue Municipal Jesus y MariaAlbergue Municipal Jesus y MariaCatedral Santa Maria la RealTapas y CervezaMás tapas y más cerveza.Apresentação do Coral para os Peregrinos.Ayuntamiento de Pamplona - TODOS CON OSASUNATapas para cenar.

    Pamplona

    5 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    My impression of Pamplona was of a very clean and tidy city. It was Friday, so there were a lot of people on the streets of the old centro. The city was excited about soccer, because in the next day Osasuna, the local team, will play the final of the King's Cup against Real Madri.
    The turism office offers a guided tour to the church of San Saturnino which ended in that day with a choir concert.
    Another amazing thing about Pamplona was the delicious Tapas. Of course I tried them more than once.
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  • Iglesia de San Andres, ZARIQUIEGUIAlto de El PerdónURTEGAMURUZÁBALIglesia de San Esteban, MURUZÁBALErmita de Santa María de EunateErmita de Santa María de Eunate

    Day 05 - Pamplona -> Puente la Reina

    6 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The stage between Pamplona and Puente la Reina is beautiful and interesting. A few kilometers after leaving the city, you start walking among large grain fields. After the village of Zariquiegui we reach the Alto del Perdón, one of the most emblematic symbols of the Camino de Santiago. In addition, in the village of Muruzábal, we can make a 2.5 km detour in order to admire the Ermita de Santa Maria de Eunate, in Romanesque style and that is believed to have been built by the Knights Templar.Leer más