Camino de Santiago 2023

Mei - Jun 2023

My first journey on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. 36 days walking on the Camino Francês from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela in the spring of 2023. Baca lagi

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Sepanyol
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Mengembara, Budaya, Mendaki, Penemuan diri, Kerohanian

772kilometer perjalanan

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Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 6
- Sabtu, 6 Mei 2023
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Altitud: 361 m
- Sepanyol Puente la Reina 42.671711, -1.81552942°40’18” N 1°48’56” W
Puente la Reina
6 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
The name of the village comes from the huge Romanesque bridge over the river Agar, built in the 11th century by order of the Queen Donã Mayor to facilitate the passage of pilgrims. The village is small, with narrow streets, and many churches.
Walking through these streets I met Assad, the funny Brazilian from Zubiri. I stop to talk and drink a beer with him. At the end I joined him and his group for dinner. With him there were his son, a mother and her daughter from Mexico, Ellie from Canada and her friend from the USA. It was a nice evening.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 7
- Ahad, 7 Mei 2023
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitud: 361 m
- Sepanyol Puente la Reina 42.671711, -1.81552942°40’18” N 1°48’56” W
Day 06 - Puente la Reina -> Estella
7 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
You leave Puente la Reina through the same Romanesque bridge as you arrived.
The first stop is in Mañeru, after 1h30 for breakfast. This day to the sound of the local church bells. A few kilometers after leaving Mañeru, you will see the beautiful silhouette of Cirauqui, which you will follow for a few kilometers.
After Cirauqui we continue towards Lorca and Villatuerta. Before arriving in Estella, I met Marcio, a Brazilian from a city on the south coast of São Paulo, my hometown.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 7
- Ahad, 7 Mei 2023
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitud: 438 m
- Sepanyol Estella-Lizarra 42.672092, -2.03148342°40’20” N 2°1’53” W
Estella
7 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
At the entrance to the city is the beautiful Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro, whose style represents a transition from Romanesque to Gothic.
My final destination was the Albergue de Peregrinos Rocamador, run by the Capuchin Friars. A nice place with a large garden. There I met Pascal, a Frenchman in his early 60's, I think. Our first contact was in a very funny situation, when he tried to ask me if I wanted to wash my clothes toghether with his, so that we could share the price of the washing machine. He only spoke French, no English. And in my case, I didn't understand a word of French. After about 10 minutes of trying, including the use of mimics, Google helped us communicate and we shared the washing machine.
Just like on the Camino de Santiago, there are no language barriers, we started talking about the Camino, I helped him with Spanish to book the albergue for the next night (I also booked for myself), and later we went out for dinner together.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 8
- Isnin, 8 Mei 2023
- ☁️ 24 °C
- Altitud: 438 m
- Sepanyol Estella-Lizarra 42.672092, -2.03148342°40’20” N 2°1’53” W
Day 07 - Estella -> Los Arcos
8 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Since we were both going to the same destination and the same albergue, Pascal and I started the walking day together.
In less than an hour we reached the wine fountain of Bodegas de Irache, where there are two taps, one for water and another one for wine. There was a sign with the description:
"Peregrino, Si quieres llegar a Santiago con fuerza y vitalidad de este gran vino echa un trago y brinda por la Felicidad".
I only had a sip of wine because it was too early (7 am). A few meters ahead it was the Monasterio de Irache. It is estimated that this monastery was built in the 8th century.
The next village was Azqueta. A gourgeos village at the top of the hill and with a beautiful landscape. A perfect place for to have breakfast. The croassaint was amazing.
Continuing toward Villamayor de Monjardin, we began to see in front of us, on the top of a mountain, the ruins of the Castillo de San Esteban de Deyo de Monjardín. Besides the view of the castle, the landscape is quiet and beautiful. Another historical site in this area is the Fuente Medieval, built as a cistern by the Mouros. n the 11th century.
After Villamayor de Monjardín, we also began to see vineyards instead of only cereal plantations. And suddenly in the middle of nowhere, you hear a music. It was an old woman sitting on the border of the way playing an accordion. The beauties of the Camino.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 8
- Isnin, 8 Mei 2023
- ☁️ 24 °C
- Altitud: 452 m
- Sepanyol Los Arcos 42.56974, -2.19230942°34’11” N 2°11’32” W
Los Arcos
8 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
For me, the highlight of Los Arcos was the impressive Iglesia de Santa Maria. There where you can see different artistic styles in the same building. It is one of the largest churches in Navarre. And you can also see this beautiful cloister, right in the middle of the building.
In front of the church there was a pleasant square with the same name as the church; Plaza de Santa Maria. There, Pascal and I were able to enjoy a nice dinner in the company of Marie, a friendly French woman.
After dinner, Pascal and I talked about the next day's walk. He told me that walking to Logroño, the next traditional step 28 km from Los Arcos, would be too much for him. His plan was to stay in Viana, only 18 km away. That night, before I went to sleep, I gave him my Whatsupp number and said goodbye.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 9
- Selasa, 9 Mei 2023
- 🌧 16 °C
- Altitud: 452 m
- Sepanyol Los Arcos 42.56974, -2.19230942°34’11” N 2°11’32” W
Day 08 - Los Arcos -> Logroño
9 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
I began early that day, 5:30 am, because I knew that it would be the longest day yet, covering 28 km.
After walking for just over two hours, I arrived at the village of Torres del Rio and saw the beautiful Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro. While stopping stop for breakfast, I ran into Ellie, the Canadian woman who I met in Puente la Reina three days ago. We start walking together and chatting.
During our way, we encountered Eva, the girl from the Czech Republic, whom I had met four days earlier. The three of us followed each other and chatted until we reached Viana. Then to stop for a coffee. As Eva had planned to stay in Viana, Ellie and I said goodbye and follwed to Logroño.
The route from Los Arcos to Logroño does not offer such beautiful landscapes.
Despite the 28 km, I arrived in Logroño before 2 pm. I went directly to the line in front of the Albergue Parroquial de Santiago el Real, in order to get a place there.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 9
- Selasa, 9 Mei 2023
- 🌧 16 °C
- Altitud: 404 m
- Sepanyol Parque del Espolón 42.466122, -2.43966842°27’58” N 2°26’23” W
Logroño
9 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
It was in Logroño that I first understood what it meant to stay in a Parroquial Albergue. The warm welcome, the care for everyone who arrives, and with the pilgrim spirit.
There were not enough beds for all the pilgrims waiting at the door, but the volunteers organized thin mattresses in a large room that was actually the auditorium of the church. No pillows, of course. No blankets, either. But, it was very nice.
After organizing my stuff and taking a shower, I went out to get something to eat. I didn't have lunch. In fact, I wanted to try something that the people in Spain use to call "ir de pinchos". This expression means going to different bars and ordering a caña (beer) with a tapa, or a glass of wine with a tapa. There is a small and narrow street in Logroño that is perfect for this. It was delicious.
Back at the Parroquial Albergue, after a short rest, we all had a community dinner together, where the pilgrims are supposed to cook, to help to serve, and after help with the dishes.
After dinner, we all went to the to Iglesia de Santiago el Real, which is attached to the Albergue. We followed a passage through the Albergue directly to the altar of the church. There we experienced a small ceremony in which, in the dark, holding a candle and passing it from hand to hand, each of us said a prayer in our native language, while the others listened and paid attention, even though they did not understand the words. The idea was simply to share our feelings.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 10
- Rabu, 10 Mei 2023
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Altitud: 404 m
- Sepanyol Parque del Espolón 42.466122, -2.43966842°27’58” N 2°26’23” W
Day 09 - Logroño -> Ventosa
10 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
I was not too worried about the time because I had already decided not to do the traditional stage to Nájera, 29 km. My intention was to stop in Sotés or Ventosa, about 20 km from Logroño.
Leaving Logroño, we crossed the large and beautiful park of La Grajera. After Logroño the area is flat and with large and beautiful vineyards.
Arriving in Navarrete we can see the ruins of the pilgrim hospital of San Juan de Acre (siglo XII). Navarrete is a charming medieval village where you can stop to take a rest, have a coffee and even eat something.
Since the walk was short, only 20 km, I arrive early at the albergue.
After organizing my stuff and taking a shower, I was on my way to the laundry to wash my clothes when I saw Eva at the reception of the albergue. She had just arrived together with a couple from Colorado, USA, Mark and Sonja, whom she introduced to me. It was good to see Eva again. We spent some time talking and enjoyed the end of the afternoon in the garden of the albergue.
In the evening we had a nice dinner together, Eva, Mark and Sonja, and Miguel, a young Italian guy, that Eva had met a few days before and introduced to us.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 11
- Khamis, 11 Mei 2023
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Altitud: 646 m
- Sepanyol Ventosa 42.404209, -2.62633942°24’15” N 2°37’35” W
Day 10 - Ventosa -> Ciruenã
11 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
Another day among the vineyards and beautiful sights.
The five of us left the albergue together and stopped on the next street to have breakfast, in the only bar open in the village.
We started our walk with a beautiful rainbow in the sky. I can also remember how the sun lit up the landscape.
Shortly after leaving the village it is possible to leave the way for a few meters and reach the Alto de San Antón, a mirador with 637m of altitude. You can see the reward in the video here.
After more vineyards we stopped in Nájera to rest and eat something. I was able to taste my first Pimiento de Padrón. In Nájera the highlight is the impressive monastery of Santa María la Real, built in the 11th century.
Since I had no plans about where to stop that day, I followed Mark, Sonja, Eva and Emanuel to Cirueña.
Manuel stayed in the municipal albergue and Mark, Sonja, Eva and I followed to the private one. There were only two albergues in the village. Cirueña has only about a hundred inhabitants. Mark and Sonja decided to book the dinner at the albergue, but Eva and I preferred to try the restaurant. Of course it was the only one open. It was an enjoyable dinner. Good food, good wine, and good company.Baca lagi
0 suka
Pengembara Camino de Santiago 2023
- Tunjukkan perjalanan
- Tambah ke senarai baldiKeluarkan dari senarai baldi
- Kongsi
- Hari 12
- Jumaat, 12 Mei 2023
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Altitud: 749 m
- Sepanyol Cirueña 42.411751, -2.89553242°24’42” N 2°53’44” W
Day 11 - Cirueña -> Viloria de Rioja
12 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
The idea for the day was to walk 20 km to Viloria de Rioja, in order to stay at the Refugio Acacio & Orietta. Eva was excited about the idea of staying at the albergue of Paulo Coelho's friends. Mark and Sonja already had reservations at the other albergue in the Viloria de Rioja. There are two albergues in the village, which is a lot for a village with only 28 inhabitants.
Eva and I started our walk to the first step, Santo Domingo de la Calzada. I was excited to visit the Cathedral of Santo Domingo. Besides the body of the Santo Domingo, the patron saint of the village, there is a rooster in a gothic chicken coop inside the church. There is a legend that a roasted rooster was placed on the mayor's table, it stood up and crowed to prove the innocence of a pilgrim who had been unjustly accused. Unfortunately, the church was closed due to the holiday in honor of the saint.
After Santo Domingo the next village is Grañón. Is a kind of village that you can cross very quickly, but it's worth to stop and go intro the church. By the way, I did this all the time, stopped and went intro every church I could. It happened a very funny situation in this church. After visiting the inside of the church, I noticed that Eva was sitting in silence. I thought that she was praying or just thinking. I left in silence, to wait for her outside. After about 15 minutes she left the church, came to me and said that she had fallen asleep. We both started laughing.
As we leave Grañón we begin to say goodbye to La Rioja and walk through the region of Castilla y León.
The next village is Redicilla del Camino. Another place that I have been waiting to visit, because of the 12th century baptismal font from the , in Romanesque style. But again my expectations were disappointed, because the church was closed. The only thing to do was to continue to Castildelgado and finally to Viloria de Rioja.Baca lagi
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