Mexico City & Cuernavaca

We (or I should say I) dined at not 1 but 2 Michelin star-rated restaurants in México City (CDMX). The first was Pujol, which earned its 2-star rating in 2024. The next was Califa de León, which carries 1 star.

Dining at Pujol, in CDMX’s posh Polanco district requires a reservation, which our hosts made weeks in advance. The seasonally adjusted set menu (see photo below) at Pujol was delicious and artfully presented with the aplomb and savior-faire befitting fine dining. It cost 3,295 Mexican Pesos (~US$200) per person before beverages. (Unfortunately, I forgot to take photos of our meal.) Most people naturally pay by card. We enjoyed the atmosphere, the conversation, and of course the food at Pujol for >2-1/2 hours. We left full, content, and grateful for the experience.

I ate by myself at Califa de León, a taco stand in the very blue-collar Colonia San Rafael district of CDMX. I was by myself because Vicki and our hosts departed Benito Juárez International Airport on their separate flights to the USA early in the morning, while my flight back to Santa Marta, Colombia wasn’t until almost midnight. This gave me all day and into the evening to explore CDMX on my own.

Califa de León (CDL) also earned its Michelin Star in 2024, the first of México’s 10s of thousands of taco stands to be so honored.

Reservations are not accepted at CDL, although to my surprise orders can be made online for takeaway. I arrived at 6pm, and there was a line of about 40 people extending out from under the market place’s canvas overhang and down along the sidewalk paralleling a calle teaming with buses, taxis, and motorcycle taxis. At first the line was at a standstill, but after 10-15 minutes it moved along surprisingly fast. Before long, I was inside the tent and would be called on soon to order. Payment is made in cash only when the order is placed.

I was fretting about what to order because I didn’t want to miss out. But the choice turned out to be easy because they only make 4 types of beef tacos served on house-made corn tortillas prepared when orders are placed. I would just have to try one of each. I later learned the menu hasn’t changed since the stand opened in 1968. There are no seats at CDL, and so you eat standing; or you go next door to the adjacent sundry store, which has entrepreneurially set up a half-dozen or so tables and chairs in its small footprint, seating about 20. A seat there is free, with only the expectation of a tip.

All 4 types of tacos are constructed the same, a slice of thin-sliced grilled beef (from 4 different cuts) atop a still soft and warm corn tortilla. The beef is seasoned while cooking with a dash of salt and a spritz of lime. Next come the salsa, red and green, which the eater applies his/herself to his/her liking. Salt and cut limes are also provided. And the only beverages are soft drinks and juices. The cooked meats and the tortillas are excellent, but the secret is no doubt the salsas, which are spicy but not too spicy with a smoky aftertaste. Both are lip-smacking delicious. Much to my surprise, I devoured all 6 of my tacos, washed down with a can of carbonated apple juice. (I thought I only ordered 4 tacos, but 2 of the varieties came with 2 tacos each.)

Needless to say to say the tacos were scrumptious. And as good as they were, I rate the experience even higher. The cost for this culinary delight was ~200 Mexican Pesos (~US$10.00). After ~1 hour from start to finish (standing in line included), I left full, content, and grateful for the experience, only wishing I could have shared it with Vicki and friends. From CDL I had to walk 6-7 blocks to the closest metro station for the 45-minute journey to the airport, with 3 line changes along the way.Read more