The Road to Cirauqui

Traditional multi bed hostels are a joy. Lights on at six, out the door by seven. It's still before sunrise although it's light enough to see and warm enough for a t-shirt. I headed off optimistic about my 15 km walk which was supposed to be an 'easy' day. I've stopped looking at the altitude and descriptions of the path ahead as I'm better off not knowing.

After a couple of hundred metres I checked the gps to make sure I was on the right path heading out of town. I strolled along as the sun rose and saw two deer jumping and foxes playing. No one had passed me for a while so I got the gps out to double check and found myself 700m off the track. I swear there was absolutely no other path going off but clearly I was wrong. Being slightly stubborn I decided not to retrace my steps but to instead make my own path across the dry harvested fields to rejoin the track further on. While I have to admit that I wasn't sure my plan would work, I did strike it lucky and after crossing a few fields that were easier to walk on than any Camino trail so far, I came across a road that lead exactly where I needed to go.

Today was full of gorgeous villages and towns, Obanos, Puenta la Reina, Manaru and tonight the hilltop walled Cirauqui. Of course each one was on a hill after a little valley and the Camino seems designed for a long slow wind up followed by a rapid descent.

Despite my detour I arrived in Puenta la Reina at 10 in time for the shops to open. I had some different blister prevention options to get at the Farmacia and I needed a cap as my hat kept hitting my pack and annoying me. Train with your pack on they said!!

I meet Nikki from Canada who was travelling with four friends and struggling to keep up with them. This has resulted in a sore knee that was of concern so she was trying to get in to see a physio and then catch a bus to meet up with her friends. We had a good chat about the pros and cons of doing the Camino in a group or alone.

I caught up with a American mother and daughter team. Yesterday they had sent their bags forward to a hostel that wasn't even open and had figured this out at lunchtime with no idea where their packs had gone. They had walked to the next town to find their bags at the hostel there. Now, on day two, they have got the system sorted and were feeling much more confident.

Tonight, in my walled city, my feet remain tired, my blisters annoying and I'm not exactly excited about the next 15 km. But this was always going to require some effort in the first few weeks and the delights of the landscape are ample compensation.Read more