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Camino Frances

September - December 2022
A journey across Northern Spain in the footsteps of pilgrims under a field of stars to the crypt of St James (Santiago). Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1
    Day 3

    Paris, City of Sirens

    September 14, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    I've spent two days in Paris after the long haul 30 hour Thai flight via Bangkok. These are the second and third days I've ever spent in the city of love after a whirlwind day in 1992. Thirty years later I've been reminded that the cities of the world really aren't my thing and neither is the art scene.

    But Paris has given me ample walking practice and has plenty of architecture which is a delight. I've wandered through the old city, rambled along the Seine and tramped up to Montmartre (hill of the martyrs) to enjoy the views and the stained glass of the Sacre Coeur. For all my inability to appreciate good art, l can't pass up the amazing stained glass of the world's cathedrals, especially when the sun's shining. My timing was good with the nuns choir singing, amplified by the fabulous dynamics of the building.

    The French appreciation for good cuisine is evident everywhere and the displays of tantalising cuisine abound. With three fromageries, two boulangeries, a chocolaterie and much more just in the block next to my hotel, I definitely won't leave Paris hungry. Does anyone know the difference between a patisserie and a boulangerie, I'm sure just a bakery will do?!

    My French is going well. I practiced my "Parle vous Anglais?" with a lovely french mademoiselle for her to respond that she was already speaking English. I'll put that down to too little sleep and will now remember not to just listen to the accent. Hopefully she thought I was a stupid American!!

    Even with my not so great memory, l was fairly certain that eating a croissant in Paris was going to taste infinitely better than in Oz. Being focused on not overindulging as the whole point of the trip is to get fitter and healthier, l thought l would try my excellent french again and order just one croissant. I'm pleased to report that I can say croissant in French and be understood but the "one" failed so I had to endure two fresh buttery croissants in a city garden in Montmartre. I couldn't offend anyone by trying to give one back.

    Heading south to Southern France tomorrow and away from this noisy metropolis. Most notably, there seems to be sirens of all different sorts every ten minutes. Two tiny police cars just wizzed by that seemed best suited to a Mr Bean movie.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1111
    Day 4

    The Fast Track to Basque Country

    September 15, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Up early, mainly because I'm still a bit on Island time. Headed out via an award winning boulangerie for a final Parisian breakfast, hopped the Metro at peak hour (yuck) without getting pick pocketed and arrived nice and early at Gare Montparnasse for my trip to the deep south.

    Got slightly sea sick on the upper deck of the bullet train, know as the TGV to the French, as we clocked the 600km to Bordeaux in two hours. Bordeaux - did someone say red wine?

    Took a slightly slower pace further south to Bayonne and boarded the bus to St Jean Pied de Port. That's St John for you heathens. Les Mis fans will know from Jean Valjean.

    Since the 12th century pilgrims have flocked to the Basque Country from all over Europe. Many routes converge on the cobbled streets of St Jean prior to the dangerous climb over the Pyrenees, used in times of old to avoid the bandits in the valley.

    St Jean is a glorious old town, a walled citadel sits on top of the hill and the town is nestled in the foothills of the mountains. I collected my official Pilgrims credential and bought my new walking poles and am now cosy and comfortable in my traditional French house stay. And I saw my first Camino way marker.

    "When the beating of your heart
    Echoes the beating of the drums
    There is a life about to start
    When tomorrow comes!" Les Mis

    Well, there'll be a lot of heart beats going up those hills come morning time.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 5

    For Whom The Bell Tolls

    September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This morning I woke to the sound of the bells tolling. It's a beautiful deep bell that reverberates through the valley. My bedroom window looks out towards the citadel which glowed in the dark through the night and feels very ancient.

    Today the bell tolls for my brother Cameron, who left us now six years ago. Cam would have loved a Camino and been the life of the trail. He was born a wise pilgrim. Miss you Cam and will carry you in my heart to Santiago.

    For Whom the Bell Tolls is a novel by Hemingway, written about Spain. Hemingway loved Pamplona, which is where I'm headed, on the other side of the Pyrenees.

    I wandered around town in the morning drizzle preparing for Day 1 of my Camino. The steep climb up the Pyrenees and down the other side seems to be the most talked about stage of the whole Camino and I've been completely unsure about my ability to do it. Most people break this day into two but with limited accommodation in the mountains I chose to try the walk up the hill then bus back to St Jean for another night.

    After finding out that you can't buy supplies until the shops open at ten, and dumping my pack for the day, I headed off with a rain coat, a jammon baguette and only the occasional drop of rain. I met Texas Jack early on at the first steep hill and we chatted for a while. He's got sixty days to do the trail just like me and also like me, he doesn't know his limits. He had his pack and I was probably at least ten years younger than him so I passed him by (that's right Darryn Crook, I've already passed someone and on a hill) but I think we'll meet again.

    A bit further along a pelegrin (Pilgrim in French) caught up to me and we walked a couple of kilometres together. His Camino name was Manolo, but he is South Korean. This is his sixth Camino Frances, his second this year. He is already my wise Camino sage and he taught me quite a lot in our two kilometres. After walking with him he said that I was walking the right pace and doing fine up the hills and could make it to Santiago no problems. New best friend.

    I climbed the next big hill to Huntto a little slower than Manolo but met him at the rest stop along with a gaggle of other pilgrims that I may meet again. I cancelled my bus down the hill, walked a little higher, then turned around and walked back to town. I was about 2km and an hour or so from the place everyone stays night 1. That two km is the steepest on the Camino. I know now I could have made it there. The five kilometres I did do was much easier than in my head.

    It was a beautiful day. The weather was perfect with warm refreshing rain just a little, but not enough to put my raincoat back on. I saw the mountains in the rain and mist and sunshine, heard the cow bells tinkle, saw views for miles my pictures can't capture, met friendly people from all over planet earth, and generally feel content and at peace.

    This is absolutely the place I need to be right now.

    "That is what we are supposed to do when we are at our best — make it all up — but make it up so truly that later it will happen that way" Hemingway    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    2211
    Day 6

    The Hills are Alive...

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    "The hills are alive with the sound of music, a song they have sung for a thousand years." Ok, it's not the Alps but close enough for an Aussie. I may have spread my arms out, spun around and sung "these are a few of my favourite things" but there's no evidence and you'll never know.

    Started this morning being dropped at Le Croix, the point where the Camino trail leaves the road to traverse the wilds of the Pyrenees. Whoever was in charge of setting the scene for the day nailed it, the mist was thick and the way forward invisible. Manolo, my Camino spirit guide, materialised out of the mist to give me his morning wisdom - only 2 1/2 hours to Roncesvalles from here.

    Thankfully I bought a very expensive French Sim card just for this misty eventuality. I turned on my GPS, opened my Camino Ninja ap and made sure I stayed on track. Manolo had merged with the mist again but I quickly made a new friend (who had a flat phone and was walking in the wrong direction).

    The mist stayed thick for a while and the hill was steep. It seemed much harder than yesterday which could have to do with the 8kg in my pack and the altitude of approx 1000m.

    It was windy and cold for a while but not Tassie cold - puffer jackets not required as long as you didn't stop for long. At every necessary point the mists cleared and spectacular views across France and then Spain were revealed. Crossed a cow grid that was also the border and pilgrim greetings quickly changed from bonjour to hola, and bon caminho to buen camino.

    After a while the mists were gone and I rambled through some glorious beech forests with autumn leaves covering the path, and some moss covered forests that dropped away from the path at an almost 90 degree angle. The hillsides are extremely steep, and it's hard to imagine an invading army attempting to cross the narrow paths but this has been attempted several times in the regions past.

    Finally the highest point in the crossing was reached up above 1400m and the steep descent began. The views over Spain went for miles with the magical monastery the goal in the valley below.

    Four hours after starting I wandered into the 200 bed Roncesvalles Albergue (hostel), a massive stone monestary serving peregrinos (Spanish for Pilgrim) for centuries. I was greated at the front door not by a monk, but by Manolo of course. My deep and meaningful question for him this time was "where's the food?" After a short lecture of the 'we will meet again' kind, I stumbled across a few cobblestones and sat down to have lunch with Isobel from Germany and Jason from Colorado who I met somewhere in the mist earlier.

    Refreshed I strolled the last 3 km to my first hostel stay along a flat forest path known to have homed witches of old (several of whom were burnt at the stake).

    "Cow bells and sheep bells and horses that glisten,
    Pilgrims with tales which you really must listen,
    Mist drops and wildflowers covered in dew,
    These are a few of my favourite things

    When the wind bites
    When the blisters sting,
    when I'm feeling sad,
    I simply remember my favourite things, and then I don't feel so bad."    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    111
    Day 7

    Hola, buenos dias

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Caught a beautiful sunrise at my first stay in an albergue (hostel) in Burgette.

    The Buen Camino guidebook has this to say about Burgette. "Keep your wits about you when walking through town as the Camino takes a sharp right turn halfway through. There are no less than twelve yellow arrows marking the turn, but it can still be overlooked by those admiring the charm of Burgette." And that was spot on as I would have walked straight passed it after standing right next to it taking a photo if two pelegrinos hadn't set the right example. I've photo bombed you with Burgette pictures again today.

    It was a very social evening being at a hostel and also today reconnecting with people as you walk and meeting new ones. While I didn't see Texas Jack today I heard a story about him as he becomes one of the Camino legends for this group of pilgrims. Many sensible pilgrims spend their first night at Orisson hostel half way up the mountain. Orisson has a Camino tradition of holding a pilgrims dinner then asking everyone to stand up, introduce themselves, and say why the are doing a Camino. Apparently Jack doesn't have a deep and meaningful reason for his pilgrimage, his goal that night was just to make it up the bloody hill. Cue the Texan accent and booming voice.

    I walked 9kms today and most of the people I've met powered away doing 20kms and I doubt I'll see them again. This is the manufactured modern Camino Frances experience. Everyone meets on the mountain or at Orisson and then powers on to Santiago as per the stages set out in the famous Brierley handbook, creating their Camino families along the journey. I've meet a Camino veteran, one of the two Christine's, and she also sticks to the stages but as some people in her group are slower they just catch a taxi if they get tired to keep with their mates who walk quicker. There are many ways to Camino.

    Tonight I have a room in a rural house. The walls are two foot thick, white washed and the timber floors and ceiling would have Darryn counting their value.

    I've had a bath, soaked my very sore and tired feet and have 13kms to do tomorrow including a mountain to climb and a steep decent out of the mountains. Apart from my feet, the rest of me is doing well. The feet will improve I hope.

    Thanks for coming on my Camino journey.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1112211
    Day 8

    A Pilgrims Dinner

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The walk from Bikkarreta to Urdaniz was only 13 km but felt like forever. My feet are swollen from the long flights and can't cope with much more than 10kms while the rest of me is fine. Each village is a joy and the sunlight through the forests magic.

    I survived one of the steepest descents of the walk, out of the Pyrenees to the industrial magnesium town of Zubiri, then nearly choked on the fumes from the factory while trying to ascend the next hill.

    Starving pilgrims piled into Zubiri in search of food and devoured a fabulous menu of the day consisting of the traditional Spanish mixed salad with tuna and eggs, a choice of trout, ribs or ham schnitzel and fries. Cheap beer and wine abound.

    After lunch l hobbled the last 3 kilometres to my albergue and soaked my feet in the pool for an hour until I felt human again.

    After the ritual chats, rest, shower, unpack, etc, I then joined in my first three course traditional pilgrims dinner. The hostel was small, just ten beds, and there was nowhere else to eat in town so I shared a meal with a group that included Americans, Spanish, Italian, French, Brazilian, Venezuelan and Aussie of course.

    We went around the table discussing why we were walking the Camino. Antonio has to decide whether or not to accept a big promotion that will upset his work life balance. Maria's kids have left home and this is her second Camino. It gives her back faith in humanity because everyone is so nice. Jody is contemplating retirement after a long and successful career in education and surviving cancer. Jasper is in a rush and likes a physical challenge. Jacques is an incarnation of Santiago (St. James) himself and is checking in on us all and translating five different languages while he's at it. It is an enjoyable conversation with strangers talking about their lives in a way they may never do at home. This kindness and camaraderie is one of the reasons the Camino is so loved.

    Hasta Manana, baby
    Hasta Manana, until then    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    11
    Day 9

    The Camino Provides

    September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    My feet continue to misbehave. Maybe they are meant to be helping me stay in the moment. Getting fitter was never going to be a walk in the park.

    Last night was the end of my pre-booked accommodation. It is a fine balance on the Camino Frances in September post covid and a holy year. You want the freedom to walk without booking ahead but being slow you want the security of not missing out on a bed and having to walk to the next town.

    I decided to head for Pamplona even though it was a bit further than I thought I could walk. I knew I could get a taxi through the suburbs and then have a full rest day in Pamplona. I wanted a private room, I'm mixing it up between private rooms and albergues. Accommodation was scare but I found a nice looking apartment in the historic centre and decided to spoil myself because I'm worth it. Jody, who at this time was sitting next to me with her feet soaking in the pool, was also searching for two days accommodation in Pamplona. I asked her if she would like to join me in my two bedroom apartment. After contemplating for a while the odds of me being an axe murderer or something similar she said yes. I told her to pay whatever she wanted towards her stay.

    Now I just had to make it to Pamplona. The walk was beautiful again. We followed the river all the way and I spent an hour soaking my feet at a gorgeous spot. Shops were shut or absent so around lunch time I was getting pretty tired and starting to think about how I was going to get a taxi without speaking Spanish. I plodded into a picnic area at the bottom of a big hill and sat down for another rest. There was a pilgrim lying on a picnic bench looking exhausted. We had passed each other a few times but never spoken more than a buen Camino. I asked him how he was and he said he had just figured out how to get a taxi into town. Needless to say, we shared that taxi and Thomas from Germany would not let me pay a cent.

    At three o'clock I meet Jody at the entrance to our Bnb and we scored the best Pamplona apartment we both could have imagined. Jody insisted on paying for half of it as well. We both love it so much we are now buying one together.

    They say "the Camino provides" ...    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    11111
    Day 10

    Pamplona Iruna

    September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The name Pamplona is thought to originate from times of Roman occupation by Julius Caesar's rival Pompey around 75BC. The city is also know as Iruna and is one of the three Southern French or Northern Spainish cities that form part of the Basque cultural region.

    Our apartment on Calle Curia was so centrally located everything I needed to do on my rest day was no more than 50m away. While Pamplona becomes the centre of the world for a day or two during the running of the bulls, the rest of the year it remains a lovely ancient city worthy of a visit for it well presented cathedral that displays a thousand years of history within its wall. There is access to many parts of the cathedral including the Roman foundations and mosaics, naves and many chapels of worship built in different eras. The modern displays brought parts of it history to life and the cloisters were an architectural delight.

    I tried my first Spanish hot chocolate and while it looks good, it didn't live up to expectations but occupied me while I checked out a cafe famous for being frequented by Hemingway.

    I have arranged to test out a pack porting service and while I have a long walk tomorrow, hopefully the lighter load will put a spring in my step or at least stop my feet from feeling like lead weights. Fingers crossed.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    3111
    Day 11

    Sierras del Perdon

    September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    If climbing the Pyrenees wasn't enough for one week, today I got to climb and descend the Alto de Perdon which was 756m high and is the highest point for the next 170km on the Camino. I hope that means I have at least ten days before I have to do that again.

    I left Pamplona just as the sun was rising and walked a nice flat, easy on the feet, 3km out through the parks and suburbs. After that we started to rise and in the distance you could see the wind turbines on top of the mountains over which we would slowly climb.

    Without my pack I made a much more respectable pace and covered 11 km over roughly three hours before reaching a cute village where I stopped for an early lunch and an 'airing of the feet'. The path was still rising and the windmills were getting closer. There was some climbing left yet, but only 6 km further to my hostel.

    I'd walked all morning with a bigger crowd passing me by than usual and few people I had met before as those starting out with me were now getting kilometres and days ahead. I said goodbye to Jody after enjoying some good chats over three nights together. She will be 10km ahead of me by the end of today.

    As Pamplona is a stop for the main stages of the Camino followed by many, lots of people headed out of Pamplona this morning but after my long lunch they had left me in the piece and quite again. The views all day were spectacular but my camera completely inadequate to capture them. For most of the day there were views of the mountains ahead, of numerous idyllic villages and farms, and the vista of Pamplona slowly retreating through the day.

    Those last 6 km to Uterga were a killer. 2 km up to the top, and two down, then a smooth if not flat road into town. The two kilometers down was torture. For some reason they drop tons of round river rocks on the path that make going down a treacherous, ankle breaking exercise you wouldn't subject your worst enemy to. I guess if an army decided to invade over the pass again you might slow them down?! So I hobbled once again into my accommodation. My bag had arrived and I now have my feet up waiting for my Pilgrim dinner at a typical Spanish old fashioned hostel - checkout the cobblestone floor in reception, I think I'm sleeping in what used to be the barn.    Read more

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