The Tanneries

As we walked through the Medina our first full day in Fez, we could smell the tanneries well before we could see them. Another giveaway that we had arrived was that people were offering us mint twigs to hold under our noses, but we decided to wait and see how bad the smell would be before buying some. After negotiating with the porter at the entrance, we found ourselves amid the hustle and bustle of the workers of the Chouara Tannery. The smell was rancid, but manageable and we were welcomed with big, welcoming smiles by the workers we encountered as we freely explored the facility.

This particular tannery, one of the oldest and largest, is believed to have been established around the 9th century, when Fez was founded by Idris II, and the tanning industry has been a significant part of its economy ever since.

The traditional methods used in these tanneries have remained largely unchanged over the centuries, contributing to their historical and cultural significance.

How to create high-quality leather:

Soaking: The process begins with soaking the raw hides in large vats filled with a mixture of water, limestone, and pigeon droppings. This helps to soften the hides and remove any remaining hair and flesh.
Cleaning: After soaking, the hides are thoroughly washed to remove any residual chemicals and impurities.
Dyeing: The cleaned hides are then placed in vats containing natural dyes. These dyes are derived from various plant materials: poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange, and saffron for yellow. Workers use their feet to knead the hides, ensuring the dye penetrates evenly.
Drying: Once dyed, the hides are laid out in the sun to dry. This step can take several days, depending on the weather conditions.
Softening: After drying, the hides are treated with natural oils to make them supple and soft. This step is crucial for ensuring the leather is flexible and durable.
Finishing: Finally, the leather is polished and finished, ready to be crafted into various products like bags, shoes, and jackets.Læs mere