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Here's looking at you , kid
  • Jonny Gzlz
september 2024

Here's looking at you , kid

I haven't done much traveling (for leisure) lately, so I'm excited to meet up with Ingrid and embark on a new adventure! Läs mer
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  • Resans start
    17 september 2024
    Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid

    Marrakech Menara Airport

    17 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Touchdown in 3... 2... And the airplane is speeding up and climbing again? What's going on? My mind immediately jumped to the possible emergency procedures I had learned during a recent interpreting gig in the field of aviation. Engine failure? Engine fire? Avionics? Stuck landing gear? But if we're doing a go-around it shouldn't be too critical...

    Soon enough we were informed that we'd had too much tailwind to safely complete the landing. The second attempt went well and soon I was able to set foot on the African continent for the very first time - yay!    Läs mer

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    Catching up at our hostel

    17 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Ingrid had arrived in an earlier flight and was already waiting for me at the airport exit. We took a bus to the city center, passing through modern Marrakech with beautifully landscaped parks, and caught up to what we'd been up to as we walked to our hostel, located in a beautiful building in the middle of the Medina. It also has a pool and a terrace overlooking the rooftops of old 'Kech.Läs mer

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  • Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid

    First impressions

    17 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    After settling in and freshening up, we ventured out to the Medina to get a first impression - and it is just as you'd imagine it: a labyrinth of winding alleys, bustling with life, shops, people rushing through on small motorbikes or pushing carts, cats in every nook and cranny, beautiful doorways hidden behind inconspicuous bends, salesmen trying to lure you into their shops, the smell of leather and spices here and there. We also noticed men selling turtles, chameleons and stingray eggs - apparently for medicinal purposes or as food. We weren't quite sure but made a mental note to research it.

    We finished off the day with a local beer and a delicious chicken-lemon Tajine at Café Árabe, a beautiful restaurant with excellent service that is most definitely worth a visit.    Läs mer

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    Koutoubia Mosque

    18 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The minaret of Koutoubia Mosque (12th century) rises 77 meters above the city and can be seen from pretty much everywhere. You can actually spot it in the very first picture I took out of the plane. It is named after the book market that once thrived nearby.

    While non-Muslims can’t enter the prayer hall, the mosque’s gardens and exterior are perfect for a leisurely stroll.    Läs mer

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  • Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid

    The Red City

    18 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We had breakfast at a small cafe we passed on the way to the next sightseeing item on the day's agenda. It was a little café (or rather a "Soda", as I'd call it if we were in Costa Rica) where we only saw locals - men. I was a bit worried at first, as I'd heard that there are men-only cafes and if women went there they should expect some form of unwanted attention. Nevertheless, we sat down at one of the outside tables, where we could watch people, cars, motorbikes, horse-drawn carriages and donkey-drawn carts rush by.

    The waiter was very friendly and welcoming, explaining some of the items of the menu we couldn't figure out and eventually served us an excellent breakfast consisting of an omelette, some bread, butter, olives, olive oil, amlou (an almond-based sauce that reminded me of peanut butter), fresh orange juice and mint tea... For only 40 Dirhams, which is roughly €4. He also made sure that none of the beggars bothered us by courteously steering them away from us. In general, we did get some curious looks - being the only women and foreigners in the establishment - but were treated very respectfully.

    The pictures in this post are some miscellaneous impressions we got throughout the day.

    Marrakesh was founded in 1062 and quickly became a significant cultural and political center. It is nicknamed the “Red City” because of its buildings and walls. This red hue is particularly prominent in the old medina.    Läs mer

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    Bahia Palace

    18 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Our first stop after breakfast was Bahia Palace, which was quite crowded but still worth a visit.

    Built in the 1860s by Si Moussa and expanded by his son Ba Ahmed to impress his favorite wife, Bahia. The name means “brilliance” or “beautiful” in Arabic. With its rather unremarkable exterior, you wouldn't be able to tell, but all the intricate tilework, marble floors, cedarwood ceilings and stained glass windows inside really do justice to the name.

    Privacy was very important to the family and guests - so when they hired musicians for some live entertainment, being blind was a requirement.    Läs mer

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    El Badi Palace

    18 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Our next stop a short walk away was El Badi - the ruins of late 16th-century palace built by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansur of the Saadian dynasty. It had over 350 rooms, lavishly decorated with gold, Italian marble, and onyx.

    During its inauguration, a court jester famously predicted that El Badi would make a magnificent ruin. We thought it was interesting, but not really a must see to be honest. On the other hand, it was quite calm as it wasn't overly crowded and undisturbed by the hustle and bustle of the city.    Läs mer

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    Saadian Tombs

    18 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    The Saadian Tombs were built in the 16th century by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur as the final resting place for him, his family, and other important figures from the Saadian dynasty.

    After the fall of this dynasty, the tombs were sealed off and forgotten until 1917 when they were rediscovered by aerial photography, which is why they’re so well-preserved today.Läs mer

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    Jardin Majorelle

    18 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    For the last stop of the day, we took a petit taxi across town (10 Dirham = €1) to get to Jardin Majorelle. The botanical garden was created by the French artist Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and 1930s and was later purchased and restored by the famous fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé in the 1980s. Yves Saint Laurent found immense inspiration in the garden’s vibrant colors and serene atmosphere. After his death in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the rose garden within Jardin Majorelle.

    I particularly liked the tranquility of the garden, even though it was well visited. My personal highlight was the Berber Museum, which tastefully displays artifacts, clothes everyday utensils, and jewelry of the Berbers. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures, so you'll have to go there to see it for yourself!    Läs mer

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    Atlas Mountains

    19 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today we left the hotel early to meet up with the tour group we'd be traveling with for the next three days. We had considered going to the dessert camp in Merzouga and from there to Fes on our own, but couldn't find any reliable information on how to travel that route using public transportation, so opted for a tour instead.

    The Marrocan landscape in this part of the country is dominated by a palette of burnt sienna, ocher, and olive or dark green hues of the shrubs and low trees that thrive in arid climates.

    These pictures were taken along the Tizi n’Tichka pass in the Atlas Mountains, reaching an elevation of 2,260 meters above sea level. It connects Marrakesh with Ouarzazate and serves as a gateway to the Sahara Desert.

    It was part of an ancient caravan trade route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, the main goods being salt, gold, and spices.

    We also stopped at a women's cooperative for a short demonstration of the traditional method of making argan oil.    Läs mer

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    Ksar Ait Benhaddaou

    19 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Ksar Ait Benhaddou is a historic fortified village and UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its earthen clay architecture and has been featured in numerous films, including “Gladiator” and "Game of Thrones" (see picture with the full list). The Ksar looked mostly uninhabited, housing only little stores and art galleries. The people live across the river.

     It is here that we learned that the Berber don't actually like that name as it is historically derived from the Greek/Roman "Barbaros" (barbarian) and is considered pejorative. They prefer to be called Amazigh - which translates to "free people".

    I was also fascinated to learn that the paintings I had been seeing around the Ksar are made with natural pigments: saffron diluted in water for red, green tea with sugar for black, and dried indigo plant for blue.

    After the demonstration (see video), I approached the artist asking about the mixtures he uses, as I like to paint with watercolors as well. His face lit up and he said: "Oh, so you're an artist too!" and gave me a painting with the symbol for "free woman" in addition to the personalized painting I had already bought (with my name in the Amazigh alphabet).

    Unfortunately, since I had packed a blank sketchbook for this trip and hadn't painted anything yet, I didn't have a sketch for him and decided to give away one of my brushes (with a built-in water reservoir) and my gold Faber Castell marker.    Läs mer

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  • Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid

    Tea and carpets in Tinghir

    20 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This morning, we woke up to the last sound we had expected: rain! At least we wouldn't be getting a sunburn...

    Our first stop was in Tinghir, where we walked through the old part of town, barely meeting a soul, and went to visit a carpet dealer.

    He showed us a variety of carpets, each of them meticulously woven, often taking weeks to complete, and featuring patterns that tell stories of the weaver’s experiences and beliefs. Some carpets had more modern designs, so much so that I saw one or two that had the same design as IKEA carpets. It made me wonder who inspired who...

    For many Amazigh women, weaving is both an artistic expression and a vital source of income. We also learned that before the Morrocan territories were conquered by the Arabs, who brought with them Islam, face tattoos were very common, with different lines and dots to symbolize whether a woman was married, widowed, or divorced and how many children they had.    Läs mer

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  • Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid

    Todgha Gorge

    20 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The Todgha Gorge, near Tinghir in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains, features towering limestone cliffs up to 300 meters high, carved by the Todgha and Dades Rivers over millennia. Historically significant to the Amazigh people, the gorge is now a popular rock climbing destination with routes for all skill levels.Läs mer

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    Welcome to Merzouga!

    20 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Finally we arrived at Merzouga, a small village on the edge of the Sahara Desert. From here , we'd venture into the Erg Chebbi dunes, which are among the largest in Morocco. It had stopped raining, but it was cloudy and there were puddles everywhere. We even had to drive through a flooded street to get to our destination - something that is very commonplace in, say, Costa Rica but would have never thought we'd have to do here.

    We were dropped off at what appeared to be a general meeting point for tours into the desert, with several tourist shuttles pulling up and people dropping off their bags, putting on scarves and turbans, and stocking up their water supplies. The air was buzzing with excitement... and heavy with humidity.    Läs mer

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    On a dromedary with no name

    20 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Once we were all good to go, it was time to get onto the dromedaries that would take us to the desert camp. We were divided into groups of four and our little caravan consisted of the Canadian couple, Ingrid, me, and our dromedary guide Abdul. I was assigned to the first dromedary, a white one, that actually did not have a name.

    It was most definitely a very different experience than horseback riding. Unlike horses, dromedaries move both legs on one side of their body at the same time, creating a swaying motion. It felt a little bit like being on a boat in a strong, sideways swell and it took a few minutes to find the right balance and rhythm to move my hips along with the flow of the dromedary as we advanced through the silence of the desert.

    Getting off was my least favorite part - I always felt like I was about to roll off head first down the animal's neck as it first lowered the front legs and then the back in a rocking movement that felt quite abrupt.

    We stopped amid the dunes and people lined up to slide down a dune on a sandboard (which was quite entertaining to watch). I wondered whether it was possible to build a sand castle, now that it had rained and the sand was damp. However, only about the first 3-5cm had been permeated by the rain and I soon uncovered the dry sand underneath, which was extremely fine-grained, trickling almost like water as I moved it from one hand to the other.    Läs mer

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  • Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid

    Desert camp

    20 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The first raindrops started to fall and Abdul rounded us up to continue to the camp we'd stay at tonight. At first, we walked into the wrong one though - people were swarming in from all directions, walking down a pathway toward a disco tent blasting music into the desert, past the welcome station with tea and cookies.

    Someone was flying a drone over the crowd, everyone was hyped up, and it all felt somewhat surreal. Maybe I've seen too many horror movies but in my mind's eye this was the opening scene of some teenage slasher movie that starts out with everyone ready to party all night long while danger lurks in the desert to pick them all off one by one as the storm rolls in...

    When we didn't find our bags at the dropoff point we were told we had come to the wrong camp and were directed to the correct one behind the next dune - and we were kind of relieved, as the tents looked much nicer and more comfy. And if we did feel like partying, we'd know where to go.

    We were served a traditional dinner accompanied by a drum circle (instead of the dancing show that had to be cancelled due to the pouring rain). Breakfast the next day was scheduled for before sunrise, so I went to sleep at about 11 PM to the gentle and relaxing patter of raindrops on the tent's tarp, hoping that by morning the clouds would have given way to some stars.    Läs mer

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    One last look at the Sahara

    21 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Unfortunately, the next morning was cloudy again as we mounted our dromedaries in the dark to return to the meeting point. As we trudged along, the colors changed from night to day and we once again enjoyed the tranquility of the desert, only interrupted but occasional grunts, burps, and jabba-the-hut-like splurs from the dromedaries.

    Large puddles had formed next to the street, a photo opportunity I could not miss...    Läs mer

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    Ziz Valley

    21 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Some of the regions that impressed me the most when it comes to landscapes was the Ziz Valley with its towering gorges and contrasting palm groves. The road (national route N13) twists and turns, at times winding through the cliffs and at times offering panoramic views of the valleys below. If we hadn't been on a tour and we'd been driving on our own, I most definitely would have stopped a couple of times here to further explore the area. And take some better pictures and videos that the ones out of the side window as shown above 😉

    It is here that people started getting motion sickness - luckily, I was spared this time around.

    Music: Tinarawen    Läs mer

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  • Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid
    1The back of our van

    Monkeys and a lion

    21 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    As we moved towards the North of the country, the landscape changed from a rugged, arid climate with palm trees and brush, the main crops being dates and olives, to a more Mediterranean climate, with apple orchards and pine trees.

    About half an hour before reaching Ifrane, we encountered a group of monkeys right there in the middle of the street. Two locals were selling peanuts for tourists to feed. Of course, we stopped and the monkeys got fed and photographed for a few minutes before we continued to our next resting stop.

    Ifrane is a town in the Middle Atlas also known as "Little Switzerland" because of the European style architecture and the fact that it has an alpine climate - including cold winters and enough snow for winter sports.

    It is here that you'll also find the Ifrane Lion, carved out of stone during World War II by a German soldier in exchange for his freedom. It commemorates the last wild Atlas lion, which was reportedly killed in the early 1920s.    Läs mer

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  • Jonny GzlzResenärHere's looking at you , kid
    Blue gate (blue on one side, green on the other)
    Color streetSeffarin square, the metalworkers' districtUniversity/mosque1Camel meatNejarine square and fountainCarpenter's district

    Fez Medina

    21 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We arrived at the Fez Medina, also known as Fes el-Bali, in the late evening and after checking in, we went to the Clock Café (recommended by my friend Mim) for dinner with Alex. We had met him in the Al Badi palace in Marrakech and as it turned out, he had also booked the same desert tour and hostel in Fez as us.

    The Fez Medina is one of the largest and oldest medieval cities in the world, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, more labyrinthine and with narrower streets than Marrakesh. Also, no cars or motorbikes are allowed, making it a slightly more traditional and immersive experience.

    While reds and oranges dominated in 'Kech, here yellow and cream where the main characters of the color palette. We also felt people were much more insistent when following us around trying to offer their services as guides or wanting to "show us the way for free". I definitely used the phrases "laa shukran" (no thank you) and "safí!" (That's enough!) more often.

    One of the most notable landmarks is the University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 857 AD and it is recognized as the oldest continuously operating University in the world.    Läs mer

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    The Tanneries

    22 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    As we walked through the Medina our first full day in Fez, we could smell the tanneries well before we could see them. Another giveaway that we had arrived was that people were offering us mint twigs to hold under our noses, but we decided to wait and see how bad the smell would be before buying some. After negotiating with the porter at the entrance, we found ourselves amid the hustle and bustle of the workers of the Chouara Tannery. The smell was rancid, but manageable and we were welcomed with big, welcoming smiles by the workers we encountered as we freely explored the facility.

    This particular tannery, one of the oldest and largest, is believed to have been established around the 9th century, when Fez was founded by Idris II, and the tanning industry has been a significant part of its economy ever since.

    The traditional methods used in these tanneries have remained largely unchanged over the centuries, contributing to their historical and cultural significance.

    How to create high-quality leather:

    Soaking: The process begins with soaking the raw hides in large vats filled with a mixture of water, limestone, and pigeon droppings. This helps to soften the hides and remove any remaining hair and flesh.
    Cleaning: After soaking, the hides are thoroughly washed to remove any residual chemicals and impurities.
    Dyeing: The cleaned hides are then placed in vats containing natural dyes. These dyes are derived from various plant materials: poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange, and saffron for yellow. Workers use their feet to knead the hides, ensuring the dye penetrates evenly.
    Drying: Once dyed, the hides are laid out in the sun to dry. This step can take several days, depending on the weather conditions.
    Softening: After drying, the hides are treated with natural oils to make them supple and soft. This step is crucial for ensuring the leather is flexible and durable.
    Finishing: Finally, the leather is polished and finished, ready to be crafted into various products like bags, shoes, and jackets.    Läs mer

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    Courtyard of the larger Bou Inaina Madrasa
    Courtyard of the smaller Al-Attarine Madrasa

    The Madrassas

    22 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The madrassas - or Koranic schools - are some of the few buildings open to non-muslim visitors. These architectural gems are stunning examples of Moroccan artistry and craftsmanship. There are two in Fez: the smaller Al-Attarine Madrasa, where you can also access the upstairs floors and see the student rooms, and the larger Boi Inara Madrasa.

    Daily life for students, many of whom came from humble backgrounds, was a blend of rigorous academic study and modest living conditions. The students focused on Islamic studies, including the Quran, Hadith (sayings of the Prophet Muhammad), and Fiqh (Islamic jurisprudence). 

    Students lived in small, spartan rooms, in stark contrast to the central, ornate courtyard.    Läs mer

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    Entrance to the hammam spa
    View from the loungersHappy and relaxed 😎

    Visiting the hammam

    22 september 2024, Marocko ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    After spending the day exploring the medina, Ingrid, Alex, and I went to our Hammam appointment near the blue gate. At the entrance, Alex was taken to the men's section while we were invited upstairs to the women's section. We had booked a private treatment, so we didn't have the full, communal marrocan experience, as it did not include the full-body rhassoul clay mask.

    Ingrid and I were led to room with a square, hot water basin in the middle and marble benches along the walls. It felt and looked like a sauna, only with marble and tile instead of wood.

    Raja, our appointed Hammam lady, gave us single-wear thongs and instructed us to undress and lie down on the warm benches. She then proceeded to pour buckets of warm water on our bodies and wash us with black soap. Next, she scrubbed our skin with a scrubbing glove - so rigorously that we had bits of dead skin coming off our bodies.

    She sang as she worked and we mainly communicated through gestures and body language. In general, the atmosphere was very relaxed and intimate in a friendly way - unlocking childhood memories of being bathed - especially when she washed and braided my hair.

    Once our skin had been thoroughly cleaned and peeled, she applied the rhassoul body mask and left us to relax for a couple of minutes before washing it off and applying a complimentary chocolate body mask.

    When we were done, we slipped into warm bathrobes and were invited to the next room to relax on the upholstered loungers and have some mint tea while we waited for Alex to finish with his treatment (he had booked an additional massage).

    We all felt very happy and relaxed when we met up at the entrance and headed to the cinema cafe for dinner.    Läs mer

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