Here's looking at you , kid

Right next to the Royal Palace in Fes el-Jdid lies the Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter of the city. Established in 1438, it was the first designated Jewish neighborhood in Morocco and later became the model for similar quarters across the country. The Mellah feels different from the medina: the streets are wider, and many houses have wrought-iron balconies facing outward—something unusual in Moroccan architecture, where homes usually turn inward toward private courtyards.

Although most of the Jewish community has since moved away, the Mellah still preserves important parts of its heritage. One of the highlights is the Ibn Danan Synagogue, built in the 17th century. From the outside it looks modest, but inside you’ll find restored wooden benches, Hebrew inscriptions, and a Torah ark that recall centuries of Jewish life in Fez. The synagogue was carefully restored in the 1990s and today stands as a reminder of the city’s diverse past.

Walking through the quarter, I had a small encounter that stuck with me. A child, maybe two or three years old, ran up to me with wide eyes fixed on the ice cream cone I was holding. Just down the block, I noticed what I assumed was his mother, sitting in the doorway of a house and begging. With the little spoon that came with the cone, I scooped out a bit of ice cream and handed it to him. His face lit up instantly, and he ran back to his mother, excited and smiling. It was a brief moment, but felt full with genuine human connection.Read more