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I haven't done much traveling (for leisure) lately, so I'm excited to meet up with Ingrid and embark on a new adventure! Leia mais
  • Jonny Gzlz

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  • Jonny GzlzViajanteHere's looking at you , kid
    1The back of our van

    Monkeys and a lion

    21 de setembro de 2024, Marrocos ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    As we moved towards the North of the country, the landscape changed from a rugged, arid climate with palm trees and brush, the main crops being dates and olives, to a more Mediterranean climate, with apple orchards and pine trees.

    About half an hour before reaching Ifrane, we encountered a group of monkeys right there in the middle of the street. Two locals were selling peanuts for tourists to feed. Of course, we stopped and the monkeys got fed and photographed for a few minutes before we continued to our next resting stop.

    Ifrane is a town in the Middle Atlas also known as "Little Switzerland" because of the European style architecture and the fact that it has an alpine climate - including cold winters and enough snow for winter sports.

    It is here that you'll also find the Ifrane Lion, carved out of stone during World War II by a German soldier in exchange for his freedom. It commemorates the last wild Atlas lion, which was reportedly killed in the early 1920s.    Leia mais

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  • Jonny GzlzViajanteHere's looking at you , kid
    Blue gate (blue on one side, green on the other)
    Color streetSeffarin square, the metalworkers' districtUniversity/mosque1Camel meatNejarine square and fountainCarpenter's district

    Fez Medina

    21 de setembro de 2024, Marrocos ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We arrived at the Fez Medina, also known as Fes el-Bali, in the late evening and after checking in, we went to the Clock Café (recommended by my friend Mim) for dinner with Alex. We had met him in the Al Badi palace in Marrakech and as it turned out, he had also booked the same desert tour and hostel in Fez as us.

    The Fez Medina is one of the largest and oldest medieval cities in the world, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, more labyrinthine and with narrower streets than Marrakesh. Also, no cars or motorbikes are allowed, making it a slightly more traditional and immersive experience.

    While reds and oranges dominated in 'Kech, here yellow and cream where the main characters of the color palette. We also felt people were much more insistent when following us around trying to offer their services as guides or wanting to "show us the way for free". I definitely used the phrases "laa shukran" (no thank you) and "safí!" (That's enough!) more often.

    One of the most notable landmarks is the University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 857 AD and it is recognized as the oldest continuously operating University in the world.    Leia mais

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  • Jonny GzlzViajanteHere's looking at you , kid

    The Tanneries

    22 de setembro de 2024, Marrocos ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    As we walked through the Medina our first full day in Fez, we could smell the tanneries well before we could see them. Another giveaway that we had arrived was that people were offering us mint twigs to hold under our noses, but we decided to wait and see how bad the smell would be before buying some. After negotiating with the porter at the entrance, we found ourselves amid the hustle and bustle of the workers of the Chouara Tannery. The smell was rancid, but manageable and we were welcomed with big, welcoming smiles by the workers we encountered as we freely explored the facility.

    This particular tannery, one of the oldest and largest, is believed to have been established around the 9th century, when Fez was founded by Idris II, and the tanning industry has been a significant part of its economy ever since.

    The traditional methods used in these tanneries have remained largely unchanged over the centuries, contributing to their historical and cultural significance.

    How to create high-quality leather:

    Soaking: The process begins with soaking the raw hides in large vats filled with a mixture of water, limestone, and pigeon droppings. This helps to soften the hides and remove any remaining hair and flesh.
    Cleaning: After soaking, the hides are thoroughly washed to remove any residual chemicals and impurities.
    Dyeing: The cleaned hides are then placed in vats containing natural dyes. These dyes are derived from various plant materials: poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange, and saffron for yellow. Workers use their feet to knead the hides, ensuring the dye penetrates evenly.
    Drying: Once dyed, the hides are laid out in the sun to dry. This step can take several days, depending on the weather conditions.
    Softening: After drying, the hides are treated with natural oils to make them supple and soft. This step is crucial for ensuring the leather is flexible and durable.
    Finishing: Finally, the leather is polished and finished, ready to be crafted into various products like bags, shoes, and jackets.    Leia mais

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  • Jonny GzlzViajanteHere's looking at you , kid
    Courtyard of the larger Bou Inaina Madrasa
    Courtyard of the smaller Al-Attarine Madrasa

    The Madrassas

    22 de setembro de 2024, Marrocos ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The madrassas - or Koranic schools - are some of the few buildings open to non-muslim visitors. These architectural gems are stunning examples of Moroccan artistry and craftsmanship. There are two in Fez: the smaller Al-Attarine Madrasa, where you can also access the upstairs floors and see the student rooms, and the larger Boi Inara Madrasa.

    Daily life for students, many of whom came from humble backgrounds, was a blend of rigorous academic study and modest living conditions. The students focused on Islamic studies, including the Quran, Hadith (sayings of the Prophet Muhammad), and Fiqh (Islamic jurisprudence). 

    Students lived in small, spartan rooms, in stark contrast to the central, ornate courtyard.    Leia mais

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  • Jonny GzlzViajanteHere's looking at you , kid
    Entrance to the hammam spa
    View from the loungersHappy and relaxed 😎

    Visiting the hammam

    22 de setembro de 2024, Marrocos ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    After spending the day exploring the medina, Ingrid, Alex, and I went to our Hammam appointment near the blue gate. At the entrance, Alex was taken to the men's section while we were invited upstairs to the women's section. We had booked a private treatment, so we didn't have the full, communal marrocan experience, as it did not include the full-body rhassoul clay mask.

    Ingrid and I were led to room with a square, hot water basin in the middle and marble benches along the walls. It felt and looked like a sauna, only with marble and tile instead of wood.

    Raja, our appointed Hammam lady, gave us single-wear thongs and instructed us to undress and lie down on the warm benches. She then proceeded to pour buckets of warm water on our bodies and wash us with black soap. Next, she scrubbed our skin with a scrubbing glove - so rigorously that we had bits of dead skin coming off our bodies.

    She sang as she worked and we mainly communicated through gestures and body language. In general, the atmosphere was very relaxed and intimate in a friendly way - unlocking childhood memories of being bathed - especially when she washed and braided my hair.

    Once our skin had been thoroughly cleaned and peeled, she applied the rhassoul body mask and left us to relax for a couple of minutes before washing it off and applying a complimentary chocolate body mask.

    When we were done, we slipped into warm bathrobes and were invited to the next room to relax on the upholstered loungers and have some mint tea while we waited for Alex to finish with his treatment (he had booked an additional massage).

    We all felt very happy and relaxed when we met up at the entrance and headed to the cinema cafe for dinner.    Leia mais

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  • Jonny GzlzViajanteHere's looking at you , kid
    Knock, knock - anyone home?

    Royal palace

    23 de setembro de 2024, Marrocos ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The Royal Palace of Fez, also known as Dar al-Makhzen, was built in the 12th century. It is renowned for its grand golden gates, intricate mosaics, and lush gardens. The interior is not open to the public but you can see the exterior golden gates. Even here, the guards are very strict about where you go and what you take pictures of, so it is best to stick to the main gates and not wander off to the sides.

    These gates are made of brass and cedar wood, and are polished daily to maintain their dazzling shine.

    Morocco has four Imperial Cities—Fez, Marrakesh, Meknes, and Rabat—because each of these cities has served as the capital at different points in the country’s history. Therefore, each of these cities have a royal palace built by the respective ruling dynasties.    Leia mais

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