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The Danube
  • James Frith

The Danube

Budapest to Linz and back to Budapest Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 22, 2023
  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Heathrow

    October 22, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Finally checked into the Hilton Garden Hotel at Heathrow Terminal 2. Left early with intention of meeting up with Tom and Laura in London and finally passing on the Icelandic beer. Plans changed as 40 minutes into the journey we can to a stop as M5 (both carriageways) closed. An hour and three quarters later we started moving again. Eventually checked into the hotel at six fifteen. Had checked in and requested an electronic key to be sent to my phone so we could go straight to the room, worked well first time, but not on repeat…Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Budapest

    October 23, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Early start, left hotel at 5:15 to walk across to terminal 3. No queues but we did get the trainee on his first day serving real customers supervised by an experienced agent who reminded him of some really basic stuff. Landed at Budapest but then a lot of waiting around, for another set of guests on a later plane before we got the coach. An hour or so to the quayside to board before waiting for the room to be ready. The level of the Danube is currently very low so some of the cruises are having to start further up river. We decided to go out for a walk, but as it is a bank holiday in Hungary to commemorate the 1956 revolution, almost everything is closed. Strolled the bank side path to the Green bridge crossing the river to walk along the opposite bank and then back across the “chain bridge. Now we have walked through both Buda and Pest (which I think is the side of the river where we are moored).Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Esztergom / Komarom / Komarno

    October 24, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The published schedule was to arrive overnight and visit the Basilica, the largest in Hungary, then free time in the town returning for lunch and continuing on to Bratislava. However the water level was too low for us to dock. So plan B was to dock at Kamaron at 09:00 and have coaches take us back to Esztergon, ( 1 hour there, 2 hours on coach), Plan C was to keep going to Bratislava and have an extra half day there to explore by ourselves. Eventually plan D was announced - we would stop at Komaron and have 2 1/2 hours to explore the town by ourselves, although advised probably not enough time to visit the fortress which is the main attraction in the area. We walked to the nearby bridge and turned left across the bridge towards Slovakia, (turning right would have taken us to Tesco and a KFC). Komarom (Hungarian version) and Komarno (Slovakian version) were originally 2 separate towns, but effectively combined themselves into one using a common name when the “Elisabeth” bridge was built (in 1896) across the Danube connecting them. After WW1 the towns were split as the Danube became the border. Thanks to Schengen rules we just walked into what is known locally as the “old” town. As not on our itinerary I have no idea what we should have been specifically looking to see, so attached is a selection of pictures of what appeared most interesting. Back to the ship in time for our 12:30 departure and lunch and as we head towards Bratislava we have encountered our first shower of rain, probably not enough to impact the river level but the fishermen on the shoreline have now put waterproofs on. Expect to arrive Bratislava around 18:30.Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Bratislava

    October 25, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Arrived during dinner last night. Busy here as we are “double parked” at the moorings. The trip started with a train ride (the sort of of train you see chugging around UK sea fronts) which took us to the castle overlooking the city and river.The original castle was burnt down and the current one is more like a palace and used by the Hapsburg.. After the castle is it, the train took us back to the centre where we started a walking tour of the old city. We walked to St Elizabeth’s (known as the Blue Church) before making our way back to the river.
    More than 10 pictures, uploaded (not in the order taken or selected) the castle, outline of the 2 original ( now destroyed) churches in the castle grounds, cathedral spire topped with replica of the Habsburg crown, one of the early churches in the centre, main square, Bratislava Council building, Blue Church, statue of St George patron saint of Slovakia, Theatre/Opera House, last remaining gate (St Michael’s) gate for the old city.    Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Durnstein

    October 26, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Now sailing through Austria and there is a change to the riverbank. The water level is still low so seeing “beaches”, but behind them a wider variety of larger trees and forested hills. This scene is broken up by small villages with the vineyards in the fields and terraced hills nearby. Durnstein is one of these small villages although perhaps one of the oldest ones as dates back to around 800. We arrived here overnight and have an hour walking tour, then an hour to get back to the ship before it leaves at 11:00. The main claim to fame is that the castle (now a ruin being destroyed in the Catholic / Protestant wars) overlooking the village was where Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned for 3 months on his return from the crusades. The village naturally now has a hotel named after this famous visitor. This hotel in the small main square was originally built as a convent for the Poor Clares then became a grain store and then a wine store. A new “castle”, more realistically a palace was built in the village and this is now another hotel, although it does have the benefit of a nearby watchtower used to monitor the river. The small main square has a pillory stone, (you can see the steel ring where offenders were hung from for a while as an example to others). The mint coloured building was the village bathhouse hence the painting above the door. There is only one of the gateways remaining from the period when the village was surrounded by a wall, Dürnstein abbey with the blue church tower behind, is no longer used as a monastery and is now just the village church with other buildings used as the village primary school and for meetings.
    Back on ship for our 11:00 departure.    Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Melk

    October 26, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Sailed along the Wanchau Valley to Melk. The hills are not as steep but otherwise similar scenery to our journey along the Rhine Gorge. At intervals, the land levels out allowing the establishment of a series of villages and small towns. The stop at Melk is for a visit to the Abbey overlooking the town. The abbey was originally built starting in around 890 as a palace, but was later gifted to the Benedictine monks. There are around 20 monks today still at the Abbey.
    The Abbey and grounds are huge.We had a guided tour around the part of the interior considered a museum with rooms dating from various periods with decor ranging from opulent to simple. The grandeur of the building was not for the benefit of the monks, but its proximity to Vienna meant regular visits from Austrian royalty.The collection of artefacts are gifts from their visits. Whilst looking grand, most of the items are gold plated rather than solid gold. The oldest artefact on display was an exquisitely carved ivory and walrus tusk being a small portable altar dating back around 1000 years. The other notable features are the 2 libraries with the main one containing just under 10000 ancient books.However, on the floors below there is the modern library taking latest additions. The tour guide called the church “heaven on earth”. The architect was Italian and it has a certain old theatrical design with boxes high up on the knave walls, but the use of gold (plate) on almost every surface gives a very munificent feel. Suggest you google Melk Abbey to see pictures of the interior. We decided to walk back ( back is downhill) through the town and the park by the river.    Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Linz - Arrival

    October 27, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Arrived in the early hours, double parked again and unfortunately our neighbour was running some very noisy engines - so not much sleep after that. Today we have options, Salzburg or Linz - we opted for Salzburg so a few scenic photos from the trip across. Perhaps not that scenic as it was raining heavily for the whole journey.
    For Tom’s benefit a picture of the map on my abbey entrance ticket, to help with sizing, the abbey has 497 rooms, 1365 windows, the roof area (note think there are 9 courtyards) is 5.44 acres, then you have the grounds.    Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Salzburg

    October 27, 2023 in Austria ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Arrived at 11:00 and found guide for our 90 minute walking tour of the old town. Drizzled on and for 45 minutes before stopping completely and we did actually see some sun in the afternoon. The tour started on the opposite side of the river (coaches have to drop off in next street) at Mirabelle Gardens with Schloss Mirabelle at one end and the Mozart University at the other. Then across the river on the pedestrian bridge, the one used for putting padlocks on railing and fencing, passing on the way Mozart’s 2nd home and Doppler’s birthplace. The main shopping street ( expensive boutiques) has no. 9 Mozart’s birthplace and where he lived until in his teens. This is the picture of the yellow house with the Spar on the ground floor street level. The Mozarts lived floor 3 (Austrians count ground, 1, 2, 3). Off the Main Street are numerous alleys leading to small squares and we spent our tour going around these finding the main points of interest, St Peter’s (Benedictine) Abbey, ( there is a second Jesuit Abbey also with some monks on the hillside on the opposite side of the river). Salzburg Cathedral and the castle on top of the hill ending the tour in market square. We had lunch then repeated much of the walk ourselves additionally visiting the Abbey,( not as ornate as Melk)and a walk around the churchyard which is still in use today. The Abbey was established around 700, ( the cathedral is later in 774). The guide continually tested us on our knowledge of the Sound of Music by pointing out the various places in Salzburg where filming took place.
    The pictures: Mozart statue, Schloss Mirabelle/ Mirabelle gardens, M’s 2nd home, main shopping street, M’s 1st home and birthplace, St Rupert of Salzburg who founded Abbey. St Peter’s Abbey, the castle,view across river to Jesuit Monastry, Salzburg Cathedral.    Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Lintz - Departure

    October 27, 2023 in Austria ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Left Salzburg at 15:30 arriving back at Linz at 17:00 .As everyone had been on time at pickup point and made good time on journey we were able to drive through the old centre of Linz. So as well as some scenic shots through the coach window on the way back there are also photos of Linz cathedral with a capacity of 22,000, a building Mozart used for a holiday and the main square which at 200m is one of the largest in Austria.
    Back on board and departed for Vienna at 18:00.
    The area around Linz is predominantly flat, whilst Salzburg is nestled among hills. Bit of trivia to end, an old salt mine accessible from the city centre has now been converted to a car park for 1000 cars.    Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Vienna

    October 28, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Arrived Vienna at breakfast time, plan is a 1 hour coach trip around the city, then 1 hour walking then 1 hour free time. Apparently Vienna was remodelled by FranzJoseph in the mid 19th century with the removal of the city walls and replacing with the “Ring Road”. Not actually circular as both ends start/end at the Danube and serves as the boundary of historic Vienna. Subsequent development around the Ring Road followed, with large public buildings and large houses in various architectural styles, the houses are usually split by floor into apartments with the building owner usually taking the ground floor. The first few pictures are of the Ring Road taken from the coach. Wa alighted at the palace built by Franz-Josef, the palace consists of 4 large “wings” some overlooking what was the gardens, but now a park. Walking through the gardens to the palace we passed the statue of Sissi, FranzJosef’s wife. Nobody knows what this (first palace picture) was built for, now it is part museum and part offices. Moving on into a courtyard the royal apartments ( FranzJosef and Sissi) are where the balcony is. We came back to visit the Augustine church, so picture from inside, otherwise from the outside it is just the end of one the palace buildings, we moved on through the Spanish Riding School Stables into the shopping area passing St Peter’s church on our way to St Stephen’s Cathedral. Compared to Salzburg the “square” around the cathedral is very small, once away from the palace the centre felt compressed and as it was now lunchtime, very crowded.Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Budapest

    October 29, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Arrived back at Budapest, today we have a coach tour of the city. Main picture is the Hungarian Houses of Parliament, taken from the ship when we arrived. Pest, ( the side of the Danube where we are moored), followed the example of Vienna and replaced the city walls with a ring Road. We followed the ring Road passing on the way the Grand Market Hall, the Presbyterian Church, and the National Museum before turning off the ring Road to go to Heroes Square. We were told about the removal of the “Soviet” era statues and the replacement with heroes from Hungarian history. An exception to this is the “Freedom” statue ( 3rd picture on first Budapest entry), which was originally soviet with 2 Soviet guards, the guards were removed and because they liked the statue it was “ re-invented” as a sign of Hungary regaining its independence. Across the river into Buda and visited the lower part of the castle, then back across the river, passing the memorial to the Hungarian Jews thrown into the Danube in the Second World War. The significance of the shoes is that they had to remove them before being pushed in to drown. Continuing this on Monday as we had the morning free as the coach to the airport was after lunch. Started following the bus route, went into the Market Hall and searched out a Paprika stall, then up to the National Museum, although closed there was an outside climate change photo exhibition which we viewed, drought and hot weather looks to have affected woodland and agricultural capability badly in these Eastern European countries. Moving on we passed by the big wheel and came to a roadside exhibition about the 1956 revolution and a short story of the events in each of the 20+ areas of Budapest, there were some photos but apparently great effort was made to locate and destroy photos taken at the time. Completing the semi-circle and at the Danube again we towards the parliament building to find the “shoes memorial”, then back along the riverside reaching the boat just in time for lunch.Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Heathrow

    October 30, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After a last lunch on board, it was coach to the airport. Part of the commentary from the local guide on the way was to highlight all the new stadiums the government had built, instead of investing in roads or replacing the post war blocks of flats that we also passed. Back at Heathrow late, so we have another night at the Hilton at T2. Tonight’s room on opposite side of hotel so looking towards T3.Read more

  • James FrithThe DanubeTraveler

    Back Home

    October 31, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Picked up the car from long stay this morning and home at noon. Started running into showers about an hour from home, by mid afternoon it is pouring down. A very wet Panda is the last cat to come in and the brook has water running through it again. Marked difference from the sunny 24c we experienced walking around Budapest yesterday.Read more

    Trip end
    October 31, 2023
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