Krakow - Podgórze

South of Kazimierz, but on the other side of the River Vistula, is the district of Podgórze.

Located at 4 Lipowa Street in the post-industrial part of Podgórze called Zablocie, is Oscar Schindler's Enamel Factory.  When WWII started in 1939, Oscar Schindler (a German himself) initially employed Jews from the nearby Ghetto because they were expected to be paid less than Polish employees.  He soon came to care about their fate, however, and - using personal connections and bribes - managed to save approx 1,000 people from certain death in concentration camps and to survive WWII.  The administrative building of the former factory now houses a permanent exhibition called "Krakow - the time of occupation 1939 - 1945" featuring many personal accounts.  It was very interesting and informative.

After the German invasion in 1939, part of Podgórze became the Ghetto for Krakow with 25,000 people crowded into it; this area had walls built around it with tops resembling Jewish grave headstones - we see a 12m long fragment of the wall.  

Zgody Square is not far; this was the starting point for deportation to camps.  Now known as Ghetto Heroes Square, it features an art installation of dozens of large iron chairs; this was inspired by abandoned furniture after the liquidation of the Ghetto.  At the corner of the square is Pod Orlem Pharmacy; now a museum, the former Eagle Pharmacy was operated by a Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who was entitled to remain in the Ghetto - it was the only Pharmacy there.  As well as providing medicine, the pharmacy acted as a secret meeting place and Tadeusz and his staff acted as runners connecting Jews in the Ghetto with those outside.  It is of particular interest to us as Helen was a Pharmacist.

At the west side of Podgórze we see the beautiful St Joseph's Church and cross the River Vistula back to Kazimierz via Father Bernatek's Bridge; also known as Love Bridge, it is noted for its acrobat statues above head height.Read more